Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:46 AM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (R.C.Harrison)
2. 04:00 AM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (John Cliff)
3. 04:41 AM - Re: Parts spreadsheet (Rowland Carson)
4. 08:11 AM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (Steve Hagar)
5. 08:54 AM - Re: Parts spreadsheet (Simon Smith)
6. 11:33 AM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (JW)
7. 12:54 PM - [ Charles F. Long ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
8. 01:48 PM - control surface hinge pins (Fred R. Klein)
9. 02:08 PM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (John & Amy Eckel)
10. 02:25 PM - Fuel fires (John & Amy Eckel)
11. 03:51 PM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (JW)
12. 05:08 PM - Re: Fuel fires (n3eu@comcast.net)
13. 05:40 PM - Fitting Rudder Pushrod Fitting CS29 (Jim Butcher)
14. 06:21 PM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix (Jeff Roberts)
15. 07:12 PM - Re: Outrigger wheels (David DeFord)
16. 09:33 PM - Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info (Ronald J. Parigoris)
17. 09:50 PM - Re: Outrigger wheels (Ronald J. Parigoris)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
Brian.
All my a/c was built using the Ohaus 200 model. I haven't got it to
replicate the recommended test at present since I've lent it out. I don't
see a problem .....unless you leave it too long standing after you have
zero'd the scale then it resets itself which if you didn't notice could
cause a problem, I never had it reset on me during a mix yet. It takes about
3 to 4 minutes of inactivity before it resets but by then you have certainly
put the resin shot in to a known figure so if it self zero's all you do is
put the required ammount of hardener in to a known figure.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
EuropaXSA279@aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ?
Mix info
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
I wonder if any of you fine folks that have chosen an electronic scale could
try this test. I have yet to purchase one but will soon. Speaking with my
new
friend Jeff on Thursday night, I had thought of purchasing the Ohaus c200.
Can anyone make a brand and model recommendation that can pass scrutiny?
Much thanks.
Brian
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "John Cliff" <mx@crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk>
> I wonder if any of you fine folks that have chosen an electronic scale could
> try this test. I have yet to purchase one but will soon. Speaking with my new
> friend Jeff on Thursday night, I had thought of purchasing the Ohaus c200.
> Can anyone make a brand and model recommendation that can pass scrutiny?
> Much thanks.
> Brian
I have an Ohaus LS200, bought in 1996, I expect there is a new model by now.
It passes the test and I have never noticed any anomolous behaviour with it. As
said previously, it powers down (losing your reading) after several minutes of
inactivity. This can be prevented by tapping the scale to disturb the reading,
the timeout starts again. I have been very happy with it.
For builders using the Ampreg epoxy, SP ask for a mix tolerance of 1% (for
optimum performance, no doubt). Does anyone know what the 'official' mix
tolerance is for Redux (or whatever it is called at the moment) ?
Johnh Clif
#0259
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Parts spreadsheet |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
On 2003 09 26 at 20:26 +0100, Simon Smith wrote:
>I'm sure I've seen a complete parts list somewhere on the net (in Excel form
>I think) but despite extensive searching I cannot find it
Simon - you're probably thinking of the parts list on the Europa Club
CD-ROM, which might be why you can't find it on the internet!
It's produced from my own monowheel manual, and doesn't (yet) include
any firewall-forward stuff, and it started out (as every list I
compile) in a FileMaker Pro database. On the CD, in the part-page
xref folder, you should find separate Excel tabluations of both parts
(with cross-references to manual pages) and manual pages (with
cross-references to part numbers). There are also spreadsheet files
in Symbolic Link format (.sylk) for those who don't use Excel, and
dBase-format files which replicate the structure of the FMP file
system. From those, anyone with a database manager that can import
dBase format can re-construct the entire thing, which is more
convenient than using it in Excel. Of course if any Club member wants
the original FMP files, they are available on request.
I started by doing my kit delivery inventory in a FMP file. I
allocated an identifying number to each of the delivery boxes so that
I knew where to look for things later. Then when I received updated
manual pages I made a file for them so I knew what pages were updated
and when. The last piece of the jigsaw was to relate those 2 files by
noting every occurrence of every part number in the manual. It took
quite a bit of work to compile, but once done, it has been very
useful. For instance, it alerted me to the fact that the supplied
quantities of some parts (fasteners, etc) did not match the numbers
called out in the manual!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (640 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail <memsec@europaclub.org.uk> website <www.europaclub.org.uk>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
Bag the electronic scale, get an Ohaus triple beam balance. I have been
using one for 4 years now without a problem. You also get more of an
intuitive feel for your mixing and quantities seeing the mechanical
movement of the scale. If you can find an old dope smoker you can
probably get his scale real cheap.
Steve
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: <EuropaXSA279@aol.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/26/03 9:07:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix
info
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
>
> I wonder if any of you fine folks that have chosen an electronic scale
could
> try this test. I have yet to purchase one but will soon. Speaking with my
new
> friend Jeff on Thursday night, I had thought of purchasing the Ohaus c200.
> Can anyone make a brand and model recommendation that can pass scrutiny?
> Much thanks.
> Brian
>
>
>
>
>
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs@earthlink.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Parts spreadsheet |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Thanks Rowland, I've now found it.
Thanks also to Ian who phoned me to tell me where to look!
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland Carson
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Parts spreadsheet
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
On 2003 09 26 at 20:26 +0100, Simon Smith wrote:
>I'm sure I've seen a complete parts list somewhere on the net (in Excel
>form I think) but despite extensive searching I cannot find it
Simon - you're probably thinking of the parts list on the Europa Club
CD-ROM, which might be why you can't find it on the internet!
It's produced from my own monowheel manual, and doesn't (yet) include
any firewall-forward stuff, and it started out (as every list I
compile) in a FileMaker Pro database. On the CD, in the part-page
xref folder, you should find separate Excel tabluations of both parts
(with cross-references to manual pages) and manual pages (with
cross-references to part numbers). There are also spreadsheet files
in Symbolic Link format (.sylk) for those who don't use Excel, and
dBase-format files which replicate the structure of the FMP file
system. From those, anyone with a database manager that can import
dBase format can re-construct the entire thing, which is more
convenient than using it in Excel. Of course if any Club member wants
the original FMP files, they are available on request.
I started by doing my kit delivery inventory in a FMP file. I
allocated an identifying number to each of the delivery boxes so that
I knew where to look for things later. Then when I received updated
manual pages I made a file for them so I knew what pages were updated
and when. The last piece of the jigsaw was to relate those 2 files by
noting every occurrence of every part number in the manual. It took
quite a bit of work to compile, but once done, it has been very
useful. For instance, it alerted me to the fact that the supplied
quantities of some parts (fasteners, etc) did not match the numbers
called out in the manual!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (640 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail <memsec@europaclub.org.uk> website <www.europaclub.org.uk>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: JW <xs191@comcast.net>
I chose the Ohaus model SCA210 (Scout II). It has a range of 0.1 to 1200 grams.
I experimented with sums and totals when I received it. It also came with a 1000
gram weight for calibrating it. I've been very happy with it.
EuropaXSA279@aol.com wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA279@aol.com
>
> I wonder if any of you fine folks that have chosen an electronic scale could
> try this test. I have yet to purchase one but will soon. Speaking with my new
> friend Jeff on Thursday night, I had thought of purchasing the Ohaus c200.
> Can anyone make a brand and model recommendation that can pass scrutiny?
> Much thanks.
> Brian
Message 7
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| Subject: | [ Charles F. Long ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Charles F. Long <charles.long@gm.com>
Subject: GPS Color Moving Map For Less Than $500
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/charles.long@gm.com.09.27.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | control surface hinge pins |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
Hi All!
Earlier this month I noted an exchange between Kingsley Hurst and Jim Nelson
concerning the use of a continuous (long) hinge pin as a means of
eliminating the surface bolt heads for the rudder and trim tab hinges; I
later viewed some pics of Jim's installation (thank you again Jim) in order
to fully understand how this worked.
I'm wondering if this mod could be further refined by flipping the hinges so
that the hinges fall within the respective slots. In this event, the
notching of the rudder and trim tab flanges would not be necessary...thus
resulting in a clean line between the vertical fin and the rudder and the
hinges would not be visable at all. Of course the edges of the flanges would
have to be true and allow for the required clearance for full deflection.
If this technique were to be adopted, insertion of the hinge pin (since it
too would lie within the slot) could be a challenge which conceivably could
be overcome by grinding the hinge pin to a point and patiently poking it til
it found its way through the holes in the hinges.
Have any of you'all out there considered...attempted...executed...or
abandoned something like this?
Of course I am in the early stage of construction, and have the luxury of
considering such nuances...and I'm also mindful of the traps laid by
neurotic perfectionism and endless refinement...the phrase, "Abandon all
hope, ye who enter here" comes to mind.
Fred
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1@comcast.net>
I think you have missed the point Ron was making about electronic scales
timing out.
Ron was at my house looking at my Europa when he tested my scale for this
problem. I have a My Weigh 3001, which has a 1 gram accuracy.
Ron tore up a piece of paper and placed it on the scale. It weighed 3
grams.
He took the paper off the scale and then put the paper back on a little at a
time over about 5 seconds. The scale showed 0, yes ZERO.
I just reran the experiment with 2 sheets of paper that weigh 5 grams.
I riped them into 9 pcs and placed them on the scale at 1 sec intervals,
the scale read 0. When I lifted the paper it read -5 grams.
This means that if you are adding the last bit of epoxy/hardener to the cup
slowly to get the weight exact you may not be where you think you are.
The way to check this is to lift the cup off the scale and it should go
back to
zero of the last reading you had.
John, A230
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix
info
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "John Cliff"
<mx@crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> > I wonder if any of you fine folks that have chosen an electronic scale
could
> > try this test. I have yet to purchase one but will soon. Speaking with
my new
> > friend Jeff on Thursday night, I had thought of purchasing the Ohaus
c200.
> > Can anyone make a brand and model recommendation that can pass scrutiny?
> > Much thanks.
> > Brian
>
> I have an Ohaus LS200, bought in 1996, I expect there is a new model by
now.
>
> It passes the test and I have never noticed any anomolous behaviour with
it. As
> said previously, it powers down (losing your reading) after several
minutes of
> inactivity. This can be prevented by tapping the scale to disturb the
reading,
> the timeout starts again. I have been very happy with it.
>
> For builders using the Ampreg epoxy, SP ask for a mix tolerance of 1% (for
> optimum performance, no doubt). Does anyone know what the 'official' mix
> tolerance is for Redux (or whatever it is called at the moment) ?
>
> Johnh Clif
> #0259
>
>
Message 10
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1@comcast.net>
There have been several discussion about the possibility of static discharge
causing a fire while refueling.
Many years ago I recall seeing a film on solvent safety cans. In the film
the speaker was lighting a fire at the spout of solvent cans while inside a hanger
at
Idewild Airport. For you younger guys this is now JFK. He was able to do
this because the spouts on the cans had a wire mesh inside the spout.
I am wondering if this would be a viable precaution to take with our Europas
Any thoughts or experience.
John, A230
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: JW <xs191@comcast.net>
Yup. I did basically the same thing with a bunch of rubber bands. It doesn't
matter how I add or remove them. They always weigh the same whether I add them
all at once, or one at a time, over time. Removing them all at once, or one at
a time, over time, ends in 0.0.
John & Amy Eckel wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1@comcast.net>
>
> I think you have missed the point Ron was making about electronic scales
> timing out.
Message 12
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--> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
> There have been several discussion about the possibility of static discharge
> causing a fire while refueling.
> Many years ago I recall seeing a film on solvent safety cans. In the film
> the speaker was lighting a fire at the spout of solvent cans while inside
> a hanger at Idewild Airport. For you younger guys this is now JFK. He was
> able to do this because the spouts on the cans had a wire mesh inside the
> spout. I am wondering if this would be a viable precaution to take with our
> Europas
> Any thoughts or experience.
>
> John, A230
Fuel is nonconductive, so I can't see what it has to do with static. But the
mesh can aerate the fuel which then creates static inside the tank. An FAA
directive on fuel systems discusses aeration and big airplanes planes whose
pressure-fueling plumbing systems may not be fully conductive.
The flame won't ignite the fuel vapor if the mixture ratio is out of a
specific range, not that the above stunt was just a parlor trick, but how the
mesh can safely alter the ratio isn't intuitive. Given the product liability
situation in the U.S., if 10-cents worth of mesh did anything to prevent one
$10-million judgment for a badly disfiguring, personal injury, you'd think all
gas cans would be like that.
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fitting Rudder Pushrod Fitting CS29 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net>
We are fitting Graham Singleton's XS rudder modification and having difficulity
establishing the position of the CS29 push rod fitting in the rudder. When deflecting
the rudder to port, we find the push rod hits the port side of the rudder
leading edge before the new steering arm gets to the stop. We are able
to get more than 32 deg of movement to stbd.
We have trimmed the port side of the rudder to give the push rod clearance to the
point that if we trim further the opening will be visible when the rudder is
at neutral.
If we move CS29 further forward, the stbd edge of CS29 will be above the surface
of the rudder skin.
Does anyone have any suggestions from having completed this step for Graham's mod
or the Classic rudder?
Thanks
Jim & Heather A185
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix |
info
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
on 9/27/03 4:07 PM, John & Amy Eckel at eckel1@comcast.net wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1@comcast.net>
>
>
> I think you have missed the point Ron was making about electronic scales
> timing out.
> Ron was at my house looking at my Europa when he tested my scale for this
> problem. I have a My Weigh 3001, which has a 1 gram accuracy.
> Ron tore up a piece of paper and placed it on the scale. It weighed 3
> grams.
> He took the paper off the scale and then put the paper back on a little at a
> time over about 5 seconds. The scale showed 0, yes ZERO.
> I just reran the experiment with 2 sheets of paper that weigh 5 grams.
> I riped them into 9 pcs and placed them on the scale at 1 sec intervals,
> the scale read 0. When I lifted the paper it read -5 grams.
> This means that if you are adding the last bit of epoxy/hardener to the cup
> slowly to get the weight exact you may not be where you think you are.
> The way to check this is to lift the cup off the scale and it should go
> back to
> zero of the last reading you had.
>
> John, A230
>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix
> info
>
>
>> --> Europa-List message posted by: "John Cliff"
> <mx@crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk>
>>
>>> I wonder if any of you fine folks that have chosen an electronic scale
> could
>>> try this test. I have yet to purchase one but will soon. Speaking with
> my new
>>> friend Jeff on Thursday night, I had thought of purchasing the Ohaus
> c200.
>>> Can anyone make a brand and model recommendation that can pass scrutiny?
>>> Much thanks.
>>> Brian
>>
>> I have an Ohaus LS200, bought in 1996, I expect there is a new model by
> now.
>>
>> It passes the test and I have never noticed any anomolous behaviour with
> it. As
>> said previously, it powers down (losing your reading) after several
> minutes of
>> inactivity. This can be prevented by tapping the scale to disturb the
> reading,
>> the timeout starts again. I have been very happy with it.
>>
>> For builders using the Ampreg epoxy, SP ask for a mix tolerance of 1% (for
>> optimum performance, no doubt). Does anyone know what the 'official' mix
>> tolerance is for Redux (or whatever it is called at the moment) ?
>>
>> Johnh Clif
>> #0259
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Sometimes we seem to just beat a subject to death. Our friends at Flight
Crafters have built more Europas than anyone on this side of the pond. After
I built a scale, I went there and did 3 weeks of fun building. They were
using an electronic scale that measured in 10ths of grams and their lies the
difference. I bought an Ohas C200 that measures in 10ths of grams and Im
just about finished with my airframe without any problems.
Use the scale follow the chart that comes with the kit and mix only what you
need. Its cheep, Its easy, its quick, and it works!
Jeff
A258
Message 15
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| Subject: | Outrigger wheels |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "J. R. Jones"
> <jronjones@lineone.net>
>
> Hello all,
> In May, Peter Zutrauen kindly posted an extract from Dennis
> Vories' article in which he (Dennis) gives details of the
> outrigger he has fitted to his Europa. Does anyone have
> Dennis's email address or, perhaps, details of the wheels
> used? Any help much appreciated. Regards to all, Ron Jones.
> (G-RJWX. XS 359)
Erich Trombley is using wheels made by Colson Caster (www.colsoncaster.com),
which he says are the same as the ones Dennis used. Following his lead, we
have installed the model 2.00004.445 wheel (4" dia., 1.25" wide, ball
bearing, Performa rubber), which has a flat profile, like the factory
wheels. Erich chose a round profile instead, I believe. The only (minor)
problem is that the bearing bore is 0.375", so a bushing is needed to fit
the original axle bolt. They are much quieter when taxiing than the
original wheels supplied by Europa. We got ours from Roll-Rite Corporation
of Hayward, California, at $7.60 each for 4 wheels.
Dave DeFord
N135TD
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix info |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello john
Thanks for chiming in.
Yup don't think my point got across very well.Time out was thought by some to be
reset from lack of use.
I hope the post helps some.
ron parigoris
Just got back from hanger. flaps done, set up for aileron root closeouts ready
once have hinges installed. have hinge and mass weight control locations for
left wing, tomorrow will have right wing ones.
John & Amy Eckel wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1@comcast.net>
>
> I think you have missed the point Ron was making about electronic scales
> timing out.
> Ron was at my house looking at my Europa when he tested my scale for this
> problem. I have a My Weigh 3001, which has a 1 gram accuracy.
> Ron tore up a piece of paper and placed it on the scale. It weighed 3
> grams.
> He took the paper off the scale and then put the paper back on a little at a
> time over about 5 seconds. The scale showed 0, yes ZERO.
> I just reran the experiment with 2 sheets of paper that weigh 5 grams.
> I riped them into 9 pcs and placed them on the scale at 1 sec intervals,
> the scale read 0. When I lifted the paper it read -5 grams.
> This means that if you are adding the last bit of epoxy/hardener to the cup
> slowly to get the weight exact you may not be where you think you are.
> The way to check this is to lift the cup off the scale and it should go
> back to
> zero of the last reading you had.
>
> John, A230
>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Caution for those using Electronic Scales ? Mix
> info
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "John Cliff"
> <mx@crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk>
> >
> > > I wonder if any of you fine folks that have chosen an electronic scale
> could
> > > try this test. I have yet to purchase one but will soon. Speaking with
> my new
> > > friend Jeff on Thursday night, I had thought of purchasing the Ohaus
> c200.
> > > Can anyone make a brand and model recommendation that can pass scrutiny?
> > > Much thanks.
> > > Brian
> >
> > I have an Ohaus LS200, bought in 1996, I expect there is a new model by
> now.
> >
> > It passes the test and I have never noticed any anomolous behaviour with
> it. As
> > said previously, it powers down (losing your reading) after several
> minutes of
> > inactivity. This can be prevented by tapping the scale to disturb the
> reading,
> > the timeout starts again. I have been very happy with it.
> >
> > For builders using the Ampreg epoxy, SP ask for a mix tolerance of 1% (for
> > optimum performance, no doubt). Does anyone know what the 'official' mix
> > tolerance is for Redux (or whatever it is called at the moment) ?
> >
> > Johnh Clif
> > #0259
> >
> >
>
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| Subject: | Re: Outrigger wheels |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello David
I too purchased some 4 inch gray flat tread colson castors with ball Bearings.
I have yet to install them, but purchased some larger diameter hardware so
spacers will not be necessary.
Question:
What are you doing about the ball bearings not being sealed, just leaving them
opened? Or did you install some sort of bearing protector?
thanks
Ron Parigoris
David DeFord wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "J. R. Jones"
> > <jronjones@lineone.net>
> >
> > Hello all,
> > In May, Peter Zutrauen kindly posted an extract from Dennis
> > Vories' article in which he (Dennis) gives details of the
> > outrigger he has fitted to his Europa. Does anyone have
> > Dennis's email address or, perhaps, details of the wheels
> > used? Any help much appreciated. Regards to all, Ron Jones.
> > (G-RJWX. XS 359)
>
> Erich Trombley is using wheels made by Colson Caster (www.colsoncaster.com),
> which he says are the same as the ones Dennis used. Following his lead, we
> have installed the model 2.00004.445 wheel (4" dia., 1.25" wide, ball
> bearing, Performa rubber), which has a flat profile, like the factory
> wheels. Erich chose a round profile instead, I believe. The only (minor)
> problem is that the bearing bore is 0.375", so a bushing is needed to fit
> the original axle bolt. They are much quieter when taxiing than the
> original wheels supplied by Europa. We got ours from Roll-Rite Corporation
> of Hayward, California, at $7.60 each for 4 wheels.
>
> Dave DeFord
> N135TD
>
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