Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:53 AM - Re: Interference? (Alan Twigg)
2. 01:57 AM - Re: First flight (Paul Brodie)
3. 01:59 AM - Re: Europa Tri-Gear 3300 Jabiru Powered (Paul Brodie)
4. 03:11 AM - Aeroelectric figure Z-16 vs Rotax installation manual (Steve Hagar)
5. 05:43 AM - Re: Light weight fill (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
6. 05:48 AM - Re: Light weight fill (rlborger)
7. 05:48 AM - Re: Tail Nav Light (Paul McAllister)
8. 06:24 AM - Europa Pilot Operating Handbook (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
9. 07:13 AM - Studs (Fergus Kyle)
10. 08:32 AM - Re: Interference? (David Glauser)
11. 10:00 AM - first flight (Runnymede73@aol.com)
12. 11:39 AM - Re: Europa Pilot Operating Handbook (Jeremy Davey)
13. 12:39 PM - Re: Light weight fill (n3eu@comcast.net)
14. 12:50 PM - Re: Light weight fill (n3eu@comcast.net)
15. 04:16 PM - Re: Photo of exhaust pipe exit on the bottom cowl (tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au)
16. 04:27 PM - Re: Re: Light weight fill (tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au)
17. 04:35 PM - Re: Re: Light weight fill (tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au)
18. 04:59 PM - Re: Photo of exhaust pipe exit on the bottom cowl ()
19. 08:15 PM - Re: Aeroelectric figure Z-16 vs Rotax installation manual (n3eu@comcast.net)
20. 10:29 PM - All New Matronics Email List Online Chat!!! (Matt Dralle)
21. 11:16 PM - Rotax Turbo, keeping waste gate from sticking? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Interference? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Twigg" <alan.twigg@ntlworld.com>
I had the luck to see another Europa built, pre warned by Mike Dolphin, I
checked the module prior to installation, sure enough, too close for
comfort. I rounded the corners of the arms which gave plenty of clearance.
Regards Alan Twigg Motor Glider Kit 463
----- Original Message -----
From: <DuaneFamly@aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Interference?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
>
> Good Day to all....especially those that are flying,
>
> I have just completed installing the cockpit module into the canoe. That
> Redux job was an interesting ballet of asses and elbows, but it got done
with only
> one minor(?) hitch. Now when I move the control column far left and right
I
> get an interference about halfway to the stop. After careful looking I
have
> found that both CS08 cranks are pushing against the bottom skin. Did I do
> something wrong? Has this happened to anyone else?
>
> Mike Duane A207
> Redding, California
> XS Conventional Gear
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: First flight |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul Brodie" <paulbrodie@btclick.com>
Thank you for responding to my email.
The basic weight of the aircraft is 917.5 pounds with a centre of
gravity being 60.63 inches aft of the datum. The total moment about the
datum in this condition is 55631 lbs/inches. The datum is defined as 29.25
inches forward of the rear edge of the cowling joggle in the fuselage
moulding.
Andy reported that that aircraft flew very well but does require a small
amount of trim on both the ailerons and rudder. Further flight tests will
reveal additional information about performance and handling.
As you know, I have the Jabiru 3300 engine and it was interesting to
note that the two front starboard CHT's were reading up to 175 degrees which
is something that needs to be addressed prior to the next test flight.The
remaining CHT's were reading at about 120 degrees. The oil temperature was
reading normal but we will be looking at the oil pressure as this was
reading quite high - perhaps this is because it is a new engine and needs to
be run in?
The PFA have advised me that the Permit to Fly will be issued once the
aircraft has accumulated in excess of 15 hours flying, 15 landings and one
flight of at least 2 hours duration.
Please let me know if you would like to be kept updated, as Andy will be
carrying out further flights next month.
Kind regards, Paul Brodie.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey@btinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: First flight
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey"
<jeremycrdavey@btinternet.com>
>
> Congrats, all! Looking forward to seeing her at a fly-in.
>
> Cheers,
> Jeremy
>
> Jeremy Davey
>
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jac van
> Heeswijk
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: First flight
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jac van Heeswijk"
> <jac.vanheeswijk@hetnet.nl>
>
> .
> On Thursday 23 October 2003 Europa Trigear nr. 305 PH-IEN took to the air
> for it's first flight in the capable hands of Ivan Shaw.
>
> Congratulations to it's builder Rob van Essen from the Netherlands, who
> finished the job in about 3 years.
>
> Ivan's first words after the flight: "Absolutely Marvellous!".
>
> Any more comments necessary?
>
> Good luck to you, Rob and Christie. Finally you can enjoy now the real
> flying excitement!
>
> Jack
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Europa Tri-Gear 3300 Jabiru Powered |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul Brodie" <paulbrodie@btclick.com>
Bill,
Thank you for responding to my email.
The basic weight of the aircraft is 917.5 pounds with a centre of
gravity being 60.63 inches aft of the datum. The total moment about the
datum in this condition is 55631 lbs/inches. The datum is defined as 29.25
inches forward of the rear edge of the cowling joggle in the fuselage
moulding.
Andy reported that that aircraft flew very well but does require a small
amount of trim on both the ailerons and rudder. Further flight tests will
reveal additional information about performance and handling.
As you know, I have the Jabiru 3300 engine and it was interesting to
note that the two front starboard CHT's were reading up to 175 degrees which
is something that needs to be addressed prior to the next test flight.The
remaining CHT's were reading at about 120 degrees. The oil temperature was
reading normal but we will be looking at the oil pressure as this was
reading quite high - perhaps this is because it is a new engine and needs to
be run in?
The PFA have advised me that the Permit to Fly will be issued once the
aircraft has accumulated in excess of 15 hours flying, 15 landings and one
flight of at least 2 hours duration.
Please let me know if you would like to be kept updated, as Andy will be
carrying out further flights next month.
Kind regards, Paul Brodie.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Runnymede73@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa Tri-Gear 3300 Jabiru Powered
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Runnymede73@aol.com
>
> very many congratulations Paul and well done
> speak soon
> bill dewey
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Aeroelectric figure Z-16 vs Rotax installation manual |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
The Rotax installation maual, in its "Requirements for flawless operation
of the rectifyer-regulator", states: "Never sever connection between C and
B+ of regualator e.g. by removal of a fuse". Z-16 the way I am wiring my
system shows a break here going to the crow bar module and the controlling
over voltage relay that is added in extra. Can someone shed some more
light on this for me so I feel better about it. I'm a mechanical guy. I
stayed in the M. E. wing of the engineering building at school. I didn't
smoke enough dope to be let into the E. E. wing.
Thanks,
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs@earthlink.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Light weight fill |
10/31/2003 08:43:27 AM,
Serialize complete at 10/31/2003 08:43:27 AM
--> Europa-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Aside from its price, I have never hear or read a bad word about
superfill.
Its advantages include batch to batch consistency and less weight than do
it yourself filler
Ira
N224XS
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Light weight fill |
--> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
Ron,
My experience and my experience only. No endorsements, your mileage
may vary, etc.
My EAA Tech Advisor recommended picking a complete system (filler,
primer, paint) from a single provider for the finish work on my Europa.
He said he didn't care who or what, but in his considerable
experience, the best results came from a system that was designed to
work together from start to finish.
I chose to go with the PolyFiber line of products: SuperFil, UV Smooth
Prime and Aerothane. So far, in my limited tests on filling and
priming control surfaces, they seem to work just fine. I have not
tried to apply the Aerothane yet. I have read of folks having
difficulties with some of the individual products so I won't know how
it all works together until I get some final finish applied.
Specifically, my experience with SuperFil has been excellent. It is a
lot easier to apply and a heck of a lot more consistent to work with
than mixing your own expancel/epoxy. With only a light scuff sand for
prep, it adheres well, works well and sands easily. DO NOT APPLY EPOXY
BEFORE APPLYING SUPERFIL. It won't help and only adds weight.
UV Smooth Prime works well enough. I have found that it doesn't fill
pin holes as easily as claimed when applied with a roller. Takes a lot
of work and sanding (probably something common to any finishing). But
it does sand easily and uniformly. It may apply better by spray. Some
day, I hope to acquire an HVLP sprayer so I can try it out. UV Smooth
Prime does stick to anything and everything. BOY does it stick. If
necessary, SuperFil can be applied over UV Smooth Prime.
I can't speak for any other products. I'll be interested in hearing
other folks comments.
Happy building,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL (40%)
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Nav Light |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Dave,
For the tail light I used a standard Grimes unit faired into my rudder. See
http://europa363.versadev.com/mar-03.html under Sunday 30, you might be able
to do a variation on this theme.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <DJA727@aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Tail Nav Light
> --> Europa-List message posted by: DJA727@aol.com
>
> Does anyone out there in computer land know of a convenient way of
mounting a
> tail nav light on a Europa other than the wing tip? I can imagine a simple
> fairing that could be bonded to the rudder as is done on many aircraft.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> A227
> Mini U2
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Europa Pilot Operating Handbook |
10/31/2003 09:24:06 AM,
Serialize complete at 10/31/2003 09:24:06 AM
--> Europa-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Greetings All,
Does someone have, in digital form, the POH for the Europa.
I would very much like to obtain it so that I may rewrite
it to meet my needs for a specific North American Trigear XS MG
with excessive avionics! I have not seen the document on the
Club site, does the club arrangement with the factory for the
other manuals include the POH?
Thanks Much!
Ira J. Rampil, N224XS (on final approach to completion and inspection :-)
)
Message 9
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Cheers,
Bob Nuckolls will kill me, but I found the title items really
useful and quick to route 1/2" irrigation tubing as conduit. For the price I
wouldn't hesitate and they are rare devices.
"Subject: AeroElectric-List: BS-1 bond studs disappearing fast
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
We had about 800+ of the BS-1 bond studs a couple of months
ago . . . we're down to less than 100. I'm in no big hurry
to get rid of them but I thought I would let list-readers
get first dibs on what's left. I have no source for more. Bob . .
."
Regards, Ferg
Message 10
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Glauser" <david.glauser@xpsystems.com>
I had the same problem. I took two blocks of foam about 2" x 3" x 1/2" and sanded
them so that they had a nice curve over one of the large surfaces. Then I covered
them with several layers of bid and removed the foam after cure. With some
trimming of the excess around the edges to leave a flange, I had a pair of
nicely-shaped bulge covers. I then cut a small hole in the fuselage bottom immediately
under where the control system was hitting, reinforced the area, and
bonded the bulge covers on.
I don't have my manual handy, but my control system was hitting the fuselage in
the rear, not the front. I don't remember which piece is CS08.
David
A071
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly@aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Interference?
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good Day to all....especially those that are flying,
I have just completed installing the cockpit module into the canoe. That
Redux job was an interesting ballet of asses and elbows, but it got done with only
one minor(?) hitch. Now when I move the control column far left and right I
get an interference about halfway to the stop. After careful looking I have
found that both CS08 cranks are pushing against the bottom skin. Did I do
something wrong? Has this happened to anyone else?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Message 11
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BAYES_60 (1.1 points) BODY": Bayesian.classifier.says.spam.probability.is.60.to.70@[score:0.6212]HTML_FONT_COLOR_UNSAFE.BODY:HTML.font.color.not.within.safe.6x6x6.palette
(0.1 points)
--> Europa-List message posted by: Runnymede73@aol.com
congratulations again Paul - well done
can fly you up to Wombleton subject to work and weather.
the Grob is now on the farm strip and will be away for the c of a from the
1st December for about a month
rgds
Bill Dewey
Ps We met John Tempest on Tue. - no further progress on the u/c calculations
- stalemate really
Message 12
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| Subject: | Europa Pilot Operating Handbook |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey@btinternet.com>
Hi, Ira, good to hear you're making good progress since we met in April! I'm
about to bond my CM in, so I'm not as quick as you, but still a decent pace
of development.
I'm afraid I (as in Europa Club Webmaster) haven't got the POH in PDF form -
to be honest I didn't think to ask for it when I arranged the build manuals
for the Web Site. In fairness, I was still on stage 2 and didn't have a POH
myself at the time!
I'll ask next time I talk to Roger.
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Subject: Europa-List: Europa Pilot Operating Handbook
--> Europa-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Greetings All,
Does someone have, in digital form, the POH for the Europa.
I would very much like to obtain it so that I may rewrite
it to meet my needs for a specific North American Trigear XS MG
with excessive avionics! I have not seen the document on the
Club site, does the club arrangement with the factory for the
other manuals include the POH?
Thanks Much!
Ira J. Rampil, N224XS (on final approach to completion and inspection :-)
)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Light weight fill |
--> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
> My EAA Tech Advisor recommended picking a complete system (filler,
> primer, paint) from a single provider for the finish work on my Europa.
> He said he didn't care who or what, but in his considerable
> experience, the best results came from a system that was designed to
> work together from start to finish.
>
> I chose to go with the PolyFiber line of products: SuperFil, UV Smooth
> Prime and Aerothane.
He should be referring to no more than the gamble that mixing products may give
you long-term adhesion or gloss problems and is what paint mfr's always say.
Though one famous mfr says if you're gonna do their topcoat over someone else's
primer, a fingernail scratch test on a test panel tells you short-term adhesion
and chemical compatibility.
A further irony is found on Tony K's web site, where PolyFiber's Top Gloss just
about fell off their primer, onto the garage floor.
Many years ago I tried one of those more obscure polyurethanes, either Ranthane
or Aerothane, can't remember. The flow-out was poor, and where it did flow out,
gloss was poor for a poly. I sanded it all off and applied Imron with excellent
results. It may have been their formulation back then, or if it was poor
gun technique, Imron was much more forgiving. Applied over PolyFiber's two-part
epoxy chromate primer, BTW. In fact, this type of undercoat is what Sherwin
Williams says is best for long term gloss, due to its lack of solvent sensitivity.
This would be true also of Smooth Prime, and Dupont includes a water-borne primer
on its list of acceptable undercoats for its acrylic urethane topcoat.
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Light weight fill |
--> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
> Wondering if anyone has fooled with aeropoxy light weight fill?
Yes. It's heavier than SuperFil, slower cure, relative harder to sand, and doesn't
work as easily (on the gooey side).
> Superfill?
Outstanding qualities. Best is the way a coat a few mils in thickness will still
cure as fast and feather-sand perfectly.
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Photo of exhaust pipe exit on the bottom cowl |
--> Europa-List message posted by: tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au
Paul,
You sound like you are going well out there! I am considering seriously using Bob
Berubes conventional taildragger, but the worst thing I can do is begin to make
a
decision and then talk to Mal and Kath. They simply talk me back out of it, and
I
am left with a mess. Last time I spoke to them, I backed out of Bobs mod, after
him spending quite a bit of time e-mailing me. I then more recently got
reinvigorated, and am in fact currently confirming my purchase of wheels and
brakes to suit the maingear leg which is being fabricated now, so I am basically
committed it seems. Oh well, all in all I still like the idea of a conventional
taildragger as I want to be able to let one of my kids, or an abinitio pilot have
a go
at the takeoff and landing phases too, so I hope the taildragger will suffice.
Ground handling with wings both on and off should be easier, and I am hoping to
only lose about 5 kts. If I build well, whether I get 125 rather than 130 kts,
I don't
really care too much, just as long as it is a true 2 nm per minute a/c. Any faster
and it is just harder on the maths :-)
I think I can set it up as much as possible to be a convertible, so that down the
track I can go mono and see which I like best, but the conventional is the way
first.
So, whatdoyareckon???
By the way, you don't know anything about why Bob Berube split from Europa do
you? Just interested in what politics were in play. He seems to be well liked and
respected by most other builders, and to have a facility basically building
Europas, well Europa UK wouldn't want that unless he was a capable man. Hope
your build is going well, and oh, have you got an autopilot. Kingsley Hurst flew
in a
RV the other day with a TruTrak and he reckons it was great. I can easily do the
plumbing for that too if I can get convinced it is the way to go, but I reckon
the
best place for the drive mechanism is onto the base of the stick with some sort
of "push on" link rod attach point. Maybe a cup fitting that is a bit loose but
stays
put on a knob fitting, when pushed on, like a towbar and ball on a car. If you
want
a quick disconnect, or you don't want the ongoing friction of the drive
mechansism for a local flight, well you just reach down and pull off the link rod,
as
if you were lifting the gooseneck of a trailer off the ball. Any thoughts on this?
Chat soon
Reg
Tony Renshaw
> Paul McAllister <paul.mcallister@qia.net> wrote:
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
> <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone out there happen to have a photo of the tail pipe as it
> exits the cowl for a 914 installation. If so I'd appreciate it if
> you could send it to me.
>
>
> Thanks & regards, Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
==============================================================
=====
> =====
> _-
==============================================================
=====
> =====
> _-
==============================================================
=====
> =====
> _-
==============================================================
=====
> =====
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Light weight fill |
--> Europa-List message posted by: tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au
Bob,
I am a Sydney Australia builder am am working on my fuse as I speak. So, I read
your message below about the Polyfiber product, and having been on this forum
since its inception I can do nothing but agree with your judgements based on the
collective wisdoms of those that have gone before me, such as yourself. I do
know of only one person who has had problems with the Polyfiber finishing paint
and that is Tony Kryzewski of Auckland. So, have you spoken to Tony, because
his paint came off in sheets!!!! He was able to pull it off by hand, which is an
amazing thought. I want to use Poly fiber for all the prepainting setup, and then
would like to use a modern car paint over the top. I also fantacise about having
an a/c that is not white. Now I know this has all sorts of problems with heat to
contend with, but I am wondering about using material sleeves for the wings and
fuse cover as well, unfortunately they will be mandatory equiptment to go with
the
a/c wherever it goes. So be it. The issue here is whether such a material exists,
light enough, and yet able to radiate the heat. Don't know if this is a reality
yet, so
have only mentioned this to you and one other bloke sofar. Just feeling the water
so to speak. So whatdoyareckon??
Reg
Tony Renshaw
> rlborger <rlborger@mac.com> wrote:
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
>
> Ron,
>
> My experience and my experience only. No endorsements, your mileage
> may vary, etc.
>
> My EAA Tech Advisor recommended picking a complete system (filler,
> primer, paint) from a single provider for the finish work on my
> Europa.
> He said he didn't care who or what, but in his considerable
> experience, the best results came from a system that was designed to
> work together from start to finish.
>
> I chose to go with the PolyFiber line of products: SuperFil, UV
> Smooth
> Prime and Aerothane. So far, in my limited tests on filling and
> priming control surfaces, they seem to work just fine. I have not
> tried to apply the Aerothane yet. I have read of folks having
> difficulties with some of the individual products so I won't know how
>
> it all works together until I get some final finish applied.
>
> Specifically, my experience with SuperFil has been excellent. It is
> a
> lot easier to apply and a heck of a lot more consistent to work with
> than mixing your own expancel/epoxy. With only a light scuff sand
> for
> prep, it adheres well, works well and sands easily. DO NOT APPLY
> EPOXY
> BEFORE APPLYING SUPERFIL. It won't help and only adds weight.
>
> UV Smooth Prime works well enough. I have found that it doesn't fill
>
> pin holes as easily as claimed when applied with a roller. Takes a
> lot
> of work and sanding (probably something common to any finishing).
> But
> it does sand easily and uniformly. It may apply better by spray.
> Some
> day, I hope to acquire an HVLP sprayer so I can try it out. UV
> Smooth
> Prime does stick to anything and everything. BOY does it stick. If
> necessary, SuperFil can be applied over UV Smooth Prime.
>
> I can't speak for any other products. I'll be interested in hearing
> other folks comments.
>
> Happy building,
> Bob Borger
> Europa Kit #A221 N914XL (40%)
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208
> Home: 940-497-2123
> Cel: 817-992-1117
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Light weight fill |
--> Europa-List message posted by: tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au
Fred,
Don't know much about paints yet, and in fact I am a fair way off. Having said
that
though I am going with Bob Berubes taildragger and the suggestion is to fill the
underside when fairing in the undercarriage leg. So, I need to sort out what filler
I
am going to use. I know that I have heard nothing but good things about Superfill.
I want to use a car paint over the top, and in fact I would like it to be other
than
white, yellow in fact, and it is a deep rich vivid yellow!! I am aware of the heat
issues and am going to research a material sleeve arrangement for the wings
and cover for the fuse, of a material suitable as a good radiator of heat. Tell
me if
you think this impossible, but I am only really interested in impossibility only,
because I am quite attracted to having a "different Europa" and am prepared to
suffer the weight penalty of having to take the covers with me wherever I go. If
you
can give me any advice or if you know of suitable fabric please let me know.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
> n3eu@comcast.net <n3eu@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
>
> > My EAA Tech Advisor recommended picking a complete system (filler,
> > primer, paint) from a single provider for the finish work on my
> Europa.
> > He said he didn't care who or what, but in his considerable
> > experience, the best results came from a system that was designed
> to
> > work together from start to finish.
> >
> > I chose to go with the PolyFiber line of products: SuperFil, UV
> Smooth
> > Prime and Aerothane.
>
> He should be referring to no more than the gamble that mixing
> products may give you long-term adhesion or gloss problems and is
> what paint mfr's always say. Though one famous mfr says if you're
> gonna do their topcoat over someone else's primer, a fingernail
> scratch test on a test panel tells you short-term adhesion and
> chemical compatibility.
>
> A further irony is found on Tony K's web site, where PolyFiber's Top
> Gloss just about fell off their primer, onto the garage floor.
>
> Many years ago I tried one of those more obscure polyurethanes,
> either Ranthane or Aerothane, can't remember. The flow-out was poor,
> and where it did flow out, gloss was poor for a poly. I sanded it
> all off and applied Imron with excellent results. It may have been
> their formulation back then, or if it was poor gun technique, Imron
> was much more forgiving. Applied over PolyFiber's two-part epoxy
> chromate primer, BTW. In fact, this type of undercoat is what
> Sherwin Williams says is best for long term gloss, due to its lack of
> solvent sensitivity.
>
> This would be true also of Smooth Prime, and Dupont includes a
> water-borne primer on its list of acceptable undercoats for its
> acrylic urethane topcoat.
>
> Regards,
> Fred F.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Photo of exhaust pipe exit on the bottom cowl |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
Hi Tony
Mono XS builder in California. I have installed a TruTrack on the
copilot stick and I can tell you that it is easy, concealed and there is
no detectable friction when it is installed. I don't think there is any
need to have the connection detachable. (disclosure: I am not flying
yet but getting closer... Top on, doors on, panel done, wings and flying
surfaces primed, engine installed.)
Contrary to popular opinion I had trouble with the Polyfiber fairing
stuff. It was probably my fault for not heating the mix but I found it
hard to mix and it did not mix well so when I applied it there were
globs that did not cure and I had to dig them out. I have used supplied
epoxy/microballoon since and am happy with it. It takes a bit of
practice to mix just right so it sticks and doesn't slump but it is not
hard to do and I found it sands just fine. One does have to wait two to
three days to sand but then it goes well. (And much less expensive...)
Tom Friedland XS Mono Jabiru 3300 Airmaster beecho@beecho.org
Oh, I have digital photos of the DigiTrack installation if you want.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Photo of exhaust pipe exit on the bottom cowl
--> Europa-List message posted by: tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au
Paul,
You sound like you are going well out there! I am considering seriously
using Bob
Berubes conventional taildragger, but the worst thing I can do is begin
to make a
decision and then talk to Mal and Kath. They simply talk me back out of
it, and I
am left with a mess. Last time I spoke to them, I backed out of Bobs
mod, after
him spending quite a bit of time e-mailing me. I then more recently got
reinvigorated, and am in fact currently confirming my purchase of wheels
and
brakes to suit the maingear leg which is being fabricated now, so I am
basically
committed it seems. Oh well, all in all I still like the idea of a
conventional
taildragger as I want to be able to let one of my kids, or an abinitio
pilot have a go
at the takeoff and landing phases too, so I hope the taildragger will
suffice.
Ground handling with wings both on and off should be easier, and I am
hoping to
only lose about 5 kts. If I build well, whether I get 125 rather than
130 kts, I don't
really care too much, just as long as it is a true 2 nm per minute a/c.
Any faster
and it is just harder on the maths :-)
I think I can set it up as much as possible to be a convertible, so that
down the
track I can go mono and see which I like best, but the conventional is
the way first.
So, whatdoyareckon???
By the way, you don't know anything about why Bob Berube split from
Europa do
you? Just interested in what politics were in play. He seems to be well
liked and
respected by most other builders, and to have a facility basically
building
Europas, well Europa UK wouldn't want that unless he was a capable man.
Hope
your build is going well, and oh, have you got an autopilot. Kingsley
Hurst flew in a
RV the other day with a TruTrak and he reckons it was great. I can
easily do the
plumbing for that too if I can get convinced it is the way to go, but I
reckon the
best place for the drive mechanism is onto the base of the stick with
some sort
of "push on" link rod attach point. Maybe a cup fitting that is a bit
loose but stays
put on a knob fitting, when pushed on, like a towbar and ball on a car.
If you want
a quick disconnect, or you don't want the ongoing friction of the drive
mechansism for a local flight, well you just reach down and pull off the
link rod, as
if you were lifting the gooseneck of a trailer off the ball. Any
thoughts on this?
Chat soon
Reg
Tony Renshaw
> Paul McAllister <paul.mcallister@qia.net> wrote:
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
> <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone out there happen to have a photo of the tail pipe as it
> exits the cowl for a 914 installation. If so I'd appreciate it if
> you could send it to me.
>
>
> Thanks & regards, Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric figure Z-16 vs Rotax installation manual |
--> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
Steve Hagar wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
>
> The Rotax installation maual, in its "Requirements for flawless operation
> of the rectifyer-regulator", states: "Never sever connection between C and
> B+ of regualator e.g. by removal of a fuse". Z-16 the way I am wiring my
> system shows a break here going to the crow bar module and the controlling
> over voltage relay that is added in extra. Can someone shed some more
> light on this for me so I feel better about it.
If the "C" line is never to be severed, it makes no sense to bring it out external
to the regulator unless it has a useful purpose. The EXP-bus people have
no problem with severing the "C" line, as they -- also in series with its OV relay
-- provide an "Alt" on-off switch. Apparently, letting the "C" line float
disables the regulator.
OTOH, Bob Nuckolls brings the "C" to ground upon OV trip. In his setup, in normal
service it's always connected ultimately to B+ and R, like Rotax wants. Ideally,
OV trip should mean the regulator has failed, so it should make no difference
what happens to this line. IOW, nothing to worry about, as best I can
tell.
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 20
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| Subject: | All New Matronics Email List Online Chat!!! |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Hi Listers!
A number of Listers have been asking for some Matronics Email List online
chat and NOW ITS HERE! Over the last couple of days I've set up a nifty
web-based Chat site here on the Matronics systems. No special programs to
download; all you need is a late model web browser like Internet Explorer
or Netscape with a java plugin. I would recommend downloading the latest
Java plugin if you experience any problems getting the page to come
up. Here's a link to the Sun Java download
website. http://java.com/en/index.jsp Look for the green box with the
yellow arrow in the upper right corner. Before you bother, though, just
try you browser because it'll probably just work.
Each Email List on Matronics has its own "Room" and all rooms can easily be
accessed from the same client. In the Email List URL Trailer at the bottom
of each List message, you'll find the Link to this List's specific Chat
Room. Just click on the Link, and then type in your name or email address
in the User Name box. Try to use a name or email address that the other
Listers know you by. You'll find me lurking around the various List chat
rooms as "MattDralle".
There's a couple of nifty features I'll explain right off. On the main
Chat Window page after you login, you'll see a little icon with a Hammer
and a Screwdriver. This is the Control Panel window. Once the Control
Panel comes up, click on the "Settings" tab. Here you'll find, among other
things, three check boxes to enable sound. Click all three and you'll be
treated to a sound whenever someone enters or leaves the Room, or when
someone sends a message.
The other cool button is the one that has four little arrows pointing to
each of the four corners of the button. This will rip the main Chat window
from the web page and allow you to resize and move it anyway you'd like.
Let's have some fun and get to know one another better using this awesome
new Chat Room! To get started, just click the URL Link below for this
List's specific Chat Room!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
PS - I'm working on a web link interface to the chat logfiles. Coming soon...
Message 21
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| Subject: | Rotax Turbo, keeping waste gate from sticking? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Doing a bit of thinking about firewall foward. Leaning towards the 914.
I hear tales of the wastegate getting stuck. I have a few questions on this matter:
Is TCP still avialable?
Would TCP help or hinder the wastegate staying clean if using 100LL?
I heard that if you regularily clean the wastegate without removing it with brake
cleaner it will keep it free as long as you
do it often and don't wait for it to stick?
Is there any other product to help keepwastegate free that anyone is using?
Is it possable to disassemble a 2 to 300 hour turbo without breaking off the studs?
What is secret to disassembe without
breaking studs?
I plan on using MoGas when staying local, but when you wander away from home it
can be hard to find.
Thx
Ron Parigoris
A-265
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