Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:30 AM - Problems with Nuts & Bolts (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
2. 02:16 AM - RE : Counter sinking tinnermen washers (Auvray)
3. 03:15 AM - Re: Problems with Nuts & Bolts (Andy Draper)
4. 03:15 AM - Re: Problems with Nuts & Bolts (Andy Draper)
5. 03:37 AM - Re: First flight G-IKRK (Carl & Dot)
6. 04:05 AM - Re: Problems with Nuts & Bolts (Andy Draper)
7. 07:35 AM - Re: Counter sinking tinnermen washers (Cliff Shaw)
8. 08:22 AM - Re: Problems with Nuts & Bolts (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
9. 11:13 AM - Re: First flight G-IKRK (Rowland Carson)
10. 11:13 AM - Re: Europa Tri-Gear 3300 Jabiru Powered (Rowland Carson)
11. 01:28 PM - Re: First flight G-IKRK (RoddyEuropa@aol.com)
12. 01:58 PM - Re:Dynon EFIS (DJA727@aol.com)
13. 02:25 PM - filler (Graham Singleton)
14. 02:33 PM - fuel system (paul stewart)
15. 02:37 PM - cowlings (paul stewart)
16. 02:46 PM - Reply Button Apologies (Tony Renshaw)
17. 02:58 PM - Nicopress and Rotaries (Tony Renshaw)
18. 04:04 PM - Re: fuel system (Rob Housman)
19. 05:20 PM - Re: cowlings (Tony S. Krzyzewski)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Problems with Nuts & Bolts |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good day all,
Seems that I am having more questions the further I go from this point. I
just finished installing the cockpit module and the rear bulkhead aft of the
tailplanes. I went to make up the Pitch Push Rod and found a problem. The manual
says to cut a EUR002 Set Screw to 1 1/2", then fully screw it into the CS17A
End Cap with some Threadlocker and a locking nut on the other side. But the
EUR002's that were supplied are only threaded halfway down the shaft. Am I missing
something? And they are not easy to replace because they are not standard
bolts found at your local Ace Hardware store or Home Depot.
Then, when building the Trim Damper and Bellcrank Assy the manual says to cut
the TS04A Shaft to 28mm. It's already that length! But the M5 X 60 bolt that
goes thru the center is too long, it hits the TS02 support on the other side.
Does this get trimmed to fit? Then there is no mention of how tight the M10
Nylock is to be. With it "just on", the spring load is very tight. Is the trim
drive servo that strong?
I know this is homebuilt, but these type things could nag me later. Thanks in
advance for any insight from those that have gone before.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Message 2
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| Subject: | Counter sinking tinnermen washers |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Auvray" <m.auvray@aerodyne-int.com>
Hello Cliff,
Do you have picture of it?
I am interested
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] De la part de Cliff Shaw
Envoy : dimanche 2 novembre 2003 05:17
: europa-list@matronics.com
Objet : Re: Europa-List: Counter sinking tinnermen washers
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Paul
I bought a 100* countersink from a machining tool company. It did a very
good job, turned it by hand most of the time.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
New Email:" flyinggpa@comcast.net "
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Counter sinking tinnermen washers
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
<paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am doing some final fit ups of the top cowl and I need to
> countersink
the tinnermen washers so they sit flat. Does any one have a best
practice on how to achieve this (other than using a large drill).
>
> Thanks Paul
>
> http://europa363.versadev.com/
>
>
=
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Problems with Nuts & Bolts |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Andy Draper" <andy@europa-aircraft.com>
Dear Mike,
I spotted your e-mail to the Forum so I thought that I'd respond here before you
contact us directly with your questions and save some time.
The EUR002 bolt issue is an ongoing one following the incorrect one being added
by the hardware kit supplier. 2 correct fully threaded EUR002 bolts will be
sent to you forthwith. Whatever you do, please don't be tempted to source one
yourself as this is a critical item and its strength must be known.
Yours is the 2nd report of dificulties with the trim bellcrank so I'll assemble
a unit here to investigate the problem. It could be that the 10mm Nyloc nut
used has changed for a deeper one, or something. I'll get back to you on this
later. Likewise with the 5mm bolt.
>>> <DuaneFamly@aol.com> 03/11/03 09:29:02 >>>
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good day all,
Seems that I am having more questions the further I go from this point. I
just finished installing the cockpit module and the rear bulkhead aft of the
tailplanes. I went to make up the Pitch Push Rod and found a problem. The manual
says to cut a EUR002 Set Screw to 1 1/2", then fully screw it into the CS17A
End Cap with some Threadlocker and a locking nut on the other side. But the
EUR002's that were supplied are only threaded halfway down the shaft. Am I missing
something? And they are not easy to replace because they are not standard
bolts found at your local Ace Hardware store or Home Depot.
Then, when building the Trim Damper and Bellcrank Assy the manual says to cut
the TS04A Shaft to 28mm. It's already that length! But the M5 X 60 bolt that
goes thru the center is too long, it hits the TS02 support on the other side.
Does this get trimmed to fit? Then there is no mention of how tight the M10
Nylock is to be. With it "just on", the spring load is very tight. Is the trim
drive servo that strong?
I know this is homebuilt, but these type things could nag me later. Thanks in
advance for any insight from those that have gone before.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Problems with Nuts & Bolts |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Andy Draper" <andy@europa-aircraft.com>
Dear Mike,
I spotted your e-mail to the Forum so I thought that I'd respond here before you
contact us directly with your questions and save some time.
The EUR002 bolt issue is an ongoing one following the incorrect one being added
by the hardware kit supplier. 2 correct fully threaded EUR002 bolts will be
sent to you forthwith. Whatever you do, please don't be tempted to source one
yourself as this is a critical item and its strength must be known.
Yours is the 2nd report of dificulties with the trim bellcrank so I'll assemble
a unit here to investigate the problem. It could be that the 10mm Nyloc nut
used has changed for a deeper one, or something. I'll get back to you on this
later. Likewise with the 5mm bolt.
Best Regards
Andy Draper
Technical Director
e-mail andy@europa-aircraft.com
>>> <DuaneFamly@aol.com> 03/11/03 09:29:02 >>>
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good day all,
Seems that I am having more questions the further I go from this point. I
just finished installing the cockpit module and the rear bulkhead aft of the
tailplanes. I went to make up the Pitch Push Rod and found a problem. The manual
says to cut a EUR002 Set Screw to 1 1/2", then fully screw it into the CS17A
End Cap with some Threadlocker and a locking nut on the other side. But the
EUR002's that were supplied are only threaded halfway down the shaft. Am I missing
something? And they are not easy to replace because they are not standard
bolts found at your local Ace Hardware store or Home Depot.
Then, when building the Trim Damper and Bellcrank Assy the manual says to cut
the TS04A Shaft to 28mm. It's already that length! But the M5 X 60 bolt that
goes thru the center is too long, it hits the TS02 support on the other side.
Does this get trimmed to fit? Then there is no mention of how tight the M10
Nylock is to be. With it "just on", the spring load is very tight. Is the trim
drive servo that strong?
I know this is homebuilt, but these type things could nag me later. Thanks in
advance for any insight from those that have gone before.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: First flight G-IKRK |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl & Dot" <carl_p@ntlworld.com>
Congratulations on your first flight.
Your build took nearly as long as ours (and we thought we held the record!).
We have been flying for a year now and it only seems like yesterday. The
problem is that time flies when you are having fun (and you certainly will
with your Europa).
One word of advice (Im sure im not the first). Get some really good
conversion training on her before you go solo. She's a tricky beast till you
get the hang of things.
Happy flying,
Carl & Dot.
PS: Are you still based in Milton Keynes?
PPS: Dont forget the PFA is closing down for two weeks soon so youll need to
get your paperwork in smartish (assuming you have flown off the requisite
hours).
----- Original Message -----
From: <RoddyEuropa@aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: First flight G-IKRK
> --> Europa-List message posted by: RoddyEuropa@aol.com
>
> G-IKRK, kti #220, flew yesterday (Saturday 1st Nov) in the capable hands
of
> test pilot Tim Senior. Flight was from Andrewsfield, Essex, UK. Everything
> working well, just a few adjustments needed (idle, throttle friction. gear
knob)
> before the next phase of the test flying. After 7 years 10 months building
I am
> delighted!
> My thanks to my inspectors (Bob Boyt and John Barratt) , staff at Europa
> (especially Neville and Andy) for support over the years, and to the
Europa club
> and this list as an invaluable source of information and support. And to
my
> wife Rachel for letting me get away with this project!
> Roddy Kesterton
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Problems with Nuts & Bolts |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Andy Draper" <andy@europa-aircraft.com>
Hello again Mike,
I've just made up a trim bellcrank assembly and have been able to achieve the desired
result with the friction damper. The end of the nut was about flush with
the end of the TS04 bolt, but the friction was as desired, the spring being
nearly, but not quite coil bound. The spring is there to enable fine adjustment.
The friction breakout force should be around 10 - 11 lb when pulling on the end
of the bellcrank's long arm. If you've painted or treated the bracket with the
slot in you will have altered the friction characteristics, probably lowered
them, so remove any paint that's on there.
If the friction is too high, you could try reversing the nut so that the gripping
nylon is still in contact with the thread with the nut not fully screwed onto
TS04.
Incidentally, you will notice that there is a small radius between the TS04's head
and shaft. You'll need to chamfer the inside of one of the friction washers
to allow it to sit against the head properly.
The M5 x 60 bolt should only be inserted through the bellcrank enough for the M5
nyloc nut to be threaded on to the end of the bolt. This will leave about 1/2"
of the headed end protruding from TS04.
I hope that this is able to answer your questions.
Best Regards
Andy Draper
Technical Director
e-mail andy@europa-aircraft.com
>>> <DuaneFamly@aol.com> 03/11/03 09:29:02 >>>
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good day all,
Seems that I am having more questions the further I go from this point. I
just finished installing the cockpit module and the rear bulkhead aft of the
tailplanes. I went to make up the Pitch Push Rod and found a problem. The manual
says to cut a EUR002 Set Screw to 1 1/2", then fully screw it into the CS17A
End Cap with some Threadlocker and a locking nut on the other side. But the
EUR002's that were supplied are only threaded halfway down the shaft. Am I missing
something? And they are not easy to replace because they are not standard
bolts found at your local Ace Hardware store or Home Depot.
Then, when building the Trim Damper and Bellcrank Assy the manual says to cut
the TS04A Shaft to 28mm. It's already that length! But the M5 X 60 bolt that
goes thru the center is too long, it hits the TS02 support on the other side.
Does this get trimmed to fit? Then there is no mention of how tight the M10
Nylock is to be. With it "just on", the spring load is very tight. Is the trim
drive servo that strong?
I know this is homebuilt, but these type things could nag me later. Thanks in
advance for any insight from those that have gone before.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Counter sinking tinnermen washers |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
OK, I sent it directly to your Email.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
New Email:" flyinggpa@comcast.net "
----- Original Message -----
From: "Auvray" <m.auvray@aerodyne-int.com>
Subject: RE : Europa-List: Counter sinking tinnermen washers
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Auvray" <m.auvray@aerodyne-int.com>
>
> Hello Cliff,
> Do you have picture of it?
> I am interested
>
> --|--
> --------(*)--------
>
> Michel AUVRAY
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] De la part de Cliff Shaw
> Envoy : dimanche 2 novembre 2003 05:17
> : europa-list@matronics.com
> Objet : Re: Europa-List: Counter sinking tinnermen washers
>
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
>
> Paul
>
> I bought a 100* countersink from a machining tool company. It did a very
> good job, turned it by hand most of the time.
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds WA 98020
> (425) 776-5555
> N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
> New Email:" flyinggpa@comcast.net "
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Europa-List: Counter sinking tinnermen washers
>
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
> <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I am doing some final fit ups of the top cowl and I need to
> > countersink
> the tinnermen washers so they sit flat. Does any one have a best
> practice on how to achieve this (other than using a large drill).
> >
> > Thanks Paul
> >
> > http://europa363.versadev.com/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Problems with Nuts & Bolts |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Andy,
I guess I should read ALL my mail before responding. Thank you for the
clarification. I have treated the bracket so I will remove the treatment and clean
up that area. The M5 bolt looks funny with all that length sticking out the
wrong end but if you say that's the way it is, then so be it.
Will you send me the correct fully threaded EUR002 bolts or will they come
from the Lakeland office? Just trying to gauge arrival time.
Thanks again.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: First flight G-IKRK |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
On 2003 11 02 at 15:30 -0500, RoddyEuropa@aol.com wrote:
>G-IKRK, kti #220, flew yesterday
Roddy - congratulations and thanks for the report. Just one more
thing (as Columbo would say) - what is the empty weight, please?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (640 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail <memsec@europaclub.org.uk> website <www.europaclub.org.uk>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Europa Tri-Gear 3300 Jabiru Powered |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
On 2003 11 03 at 11:09 +1300, Tony S. Krzyzewski wrote:
>Is it possible that it is kit #219 that went to NZ,?
>
>According to my records, as supplied by Europa in Jan 2002, aircraft
>ZK-NWM (ex N13NM) now flying in NZ is kit #219.
Tony - I imagine that the bits which went to build that aeroplane
came from Europa labelled "kit 219". However, (and here I am being a
bit blunter than I was before) it appears Bob Setzer made a foul-up
when he went to the FAA to register it, and where the form asked for
"constructors number" he put "A026", which was the kit number for the
OTHER, later, Europa he was also building for Norman Marsh. As I said
before, the result of this is that both the FAA records and the NZ
CAA records show the c/n as "A026". As far as Norman and the Europa
factory were concerned, the aeroplane was still 219, but there is no
evidence to support that connection with N13NM or ZK-NWM in the
records of any registering authority.
So far, in the Club's records, I've been using the numbers from the
official sources, but the evidence seems to be mounting for a change
in my practice. I do so hate messy situations, where things don't
pigeonhole properly!
Anyway, I hope that all this discussion has been of some help to
Frank Wood in sorting out the paperwork and antecedents of his
aeroplane.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (640 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail <memsec@europaclub.org.uk> website <www.europaclub.org.uk>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: First flight G-IKRK |
--> Europa-List message posted by: RoddyEuropa@aol.com
In a message dated 03/11/2003 19:13:44 GMT Standard Time, rowil@clara.net
writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
>
> On 2003 11 02 at 15:30 -0500, RoddyEuropa@aol.com wrote:
>
> >G-IKRK, kti #220, flew yesterday
>
> Roddy - congratulations and thanks for the report. Just one more
> thing (as Columbo would say) - what is the empty weight, please?
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
> --
Hi Roland. 811 lbs, with a rotax 912s.
Roddy
Message 12
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--> Europa-List message posted by: DJA727@aol.com
From: John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Dynon EFIS
Time: 10:20:31 PM PST US. Nov 1 2003
From: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:DJA727@aol.com">DJA727@aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Dynon EFIS
-- Europa-List message posted by: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:DJA727@aol.com">DJA727@aol.com
Hello Group! I am now getting dangerously close to purchasing the Dynon EFIS system.
Due to a lack of vacuum, I am now committed to an electrical attitude system.
The Dynon will fit right in and allow me to have attitude info even when
the engine is shut down in flight (an every other flight occurrence in the Mini
U2). I would love to get feedback on anyone's experience with that EFIS before
I make the big move. Obviously, it would be great to have a bigger display,
but the Europa's panel space is limited and I am leaving the mechanical altimeter,ASI
in for back-up. I will be replacing my vacuum ADI with the Dynon. The
price is barely more than an electrical attitude gyro and if it works as they
say it will, my days of manually setting the heading gyro will be over.The EFIS
looked pretty good to me when I saw it at OSH. The attitude info seemed to
be very smooth as was the heading. I don't know how the airspeed or altitude
information works, but I do have the mechanical back
-up.Thanks for your help in advance. Dave A227 Mini U2
Hi Dave,
I installed a Dynon EFIS in July 2003, and I now have about 50 hours of experience
with it. Not all of this has been satisfactory, see below.
Background is :-
* My panel is all electric since I have a Whirlwind constant speed prop and the
hydraulic governor occupies the vacuum pump pad on my 912S.
* I have approximately 200 hours time on my plane and for the first 150 hours I
had an RC Allen electric gyro horizon. This unit was totally unsatisfactory despite
being sent back to the factory 3 times for repair. After 5 minutes of flight,
the horizon showed a descending left bank while straight and level. Factory
overhauls failed to fix the problem, despite verification on my bench that
the gyro appeared to be OK.
* I have a standard 6 pack instrument arrangement of airspeed, gyro horizon, altimeter
on the top row and turn cordinator, directional gyro and vertical speed
indicator on the bottom row.
* I designed my panel to be IFR capable and have just recently started IFR training.
My basic objective is to improve my pilotage, I have no plans to go flying
around in clouds on a regular basis. If anyone has plans to do heavy IFR flying
in poor conditions, I do not believe the Europa is appropriate.
* Note that Dynon recommends that the EFIS-D10 is not used as a primary flight
instrument for IFR flight. This means that the plane should be equipped such that
any single point failure - including the failure of the EFIS - will not jeopardize
the completion of any flight. Use of the EFIS as a horizon only meets
this criterion.
The installation of the Dynon EFIS was relatively straightforward and I use mine
with only the horizon feature displayed. Note that it must have the pitot and
static connections, even if you choose not to display airspeed and altitude,
etc. I understand from Dynon that the unit will not work correctly without these
since the algorithms depend on having a speed input. Beats me. Anyway, my
first flight tests showed a similar problem to the gyro horizon. It showed a level
horizon on the ground but showed a left bank while flying straight and level.
It also showed a left turn when stationary on the ground. After discussion
with Dynon (Yes, there is a glitch in the software !) and loading the latest
software (Version 1.5.0), this problem was fixed. I must say I was surprised
that such a basic problem existed on an item of this type.
I have only recently found another problem during my IFR training. During a non-precision
approach which descends with a glide slope significantly higher than
the normal 3 degrees (flaps and gear down, ~ 900 fpm descent rate, ~ 80 kts,
steady nose down between 5 and 10 degrees) the Dynon horizon falsely oscillates
up and down and even briefly shows up to 5 degrees nose high. During a precision
IFR approach with the normal 3 degrees glide slope (flaps and gear down,
~ 400 fpm descent rate, ~ 80 kts), the nose down horizon is steady and gives
a correct representation. I have spoken to Dynon and they advise that they have
not received any comments from other customers on this type of problem. At the
moment, I have not decided on my next step. This horizon saga has been the
only significant problem on my plane and I am a little weary of removing the instrument
for whatever reason. Any comments and suggestions would be appreciated.
Finally, I have been unable to obtain a satisfactory calibration of the Dynon EFIS
internal magnetometer to obtain an accurate compass heading readout. This
is not surprising since the calibration depends on having a magnetically neutral
location and I have adjacent electric motors in the directional gyro and the
turn cordinator. A hand-held compass is deflected in that region of the panel.
I am quite sure the remote magnetometer option would fix this problem but I
already have my DG and regular compass so I do not plan that.
I have no desire to give the Dynon EFIS a bad name. If I can find the fix to the
latest glitch, it will definitely meet my needs.
If you wish, I can give you my contacts at Dynon.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S
Mooresville, North Carolina
Message 13
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 31/10/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>Contrary to popular opinion I had trouble with the Polyfiber fairing
>stuff. It was probably my fault for not heating the mix but I found it
>hard to mix and it did not mix well so when I applied it there were
>globs that did not cure and I had to dig them out. I have used supplied
>epoxy/microballoon since and am happy with it. It takes a bit of
>practice to mix just right so it sticks and doesn't slump but it is not
>hard to do and I found it sands just fine. One does have to wait two to
>three days to sand but then it goes well. (And much less expensive...)
I had trouble with some Superfill but it was very old and near the bottom
of the tin, probably resin/filler ratio was inaccurate due to settlement.
It is easier to use though.
I now use a very sharp wood plane to trim back the filler. Works
beautifully and takes very thin shavings off just like wood but in any
direction. I can start cutting back after an overnight cure too. Got that
tip from here, doesn't one of Bob's boys do it that way?
Graham
---
Message 14
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
I think this may have been discussed before but I cant remember. The europa 914
installation manual and the Rotax installation manual(1996) both instruct me
to set up the two electrical fuel pumps in parallel - which I have now done in
aluminium fuel line. The Rotax operators manual(1998) however instructs me to
have the two pumps in series with two one-way chech valves in parallel to them.
Whats a man to think?
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
Message 15
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
Bofore we start cutting away at the back edge of the cowling. To get the upper
cowling front face 25mm behind the front face of the prop flange appears to require
some 10 - 15 mm of cowling to be removed. In addition, to get the cowl
centred on the prop flange requires more material to be removed on the starboard
side than the port side to take account of the engine offset. Is this roughly
what others have found?
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
Message 16
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| Subject: | Reply Button Apologies |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
General broacast "apology" for inappropriate use of Reply button. Normally
pretty vigilant, but not of late apparently. Promise not to beat you all in
the World Cup for my pennance! :-)
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Message 17
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| Subject: | Nicopress and Rotaries |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Bob,
Read your e-mail below, and got a little confused with it. Easily could be me,
as my eyes are hanging out at the moment. The long and the short of it all is
that I believe it doesn't really matter with regular inspection. If there is
any electrolitic corrosion I think it is like a battery terminal, where it will
all scale up and you "will know". So, the person I borrowed my nicopress clamp
from said not to worry, in fact they like to cover the whole job up with heat
shrink! I have installed the heat shrink over the top, to respect the advice
given, but I haven't shrunk it yet, and I intend on cutting it away. All the
Europas before us have used the older type, and Europa are not forthcoming the
sleeves without us buying them.
Onto building, where are you up to?? I notice you are involved with a Rotary
Car Club. Any dreams of putting a rotary into your Europa? If so, well I would
be very interested in doing some research with you on that one, but by the
sounds of it you are streaks ahead anyway. I have made enquiries with Atkins
Rotary about a Turbo, siingle spool rotary engine which might be nice, if I can
get a gearbox and prop that will suit. Should produce a better horsepower,
probably 140 HP, and be a lot lighter than the double spool. If you are
interested, well we can talk some more about this I am sure.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 06:16 PM 11/2/2003 +1100, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
>
>Dear Roger
>
>I refer to Europa News, Issue No 38, Page 10, Build Matters -
>
>The need for a commitment to regularly inspect swages made with the factory
>supplied sleeves in swaging the control cables made me look into the change
>of sleeves specified.
>
>When I sought the 428-3VG at a nearby repair shop they did not know of them.
>
> I was referred to the latest (8th September 1998) US Advisory Circular AC
>43.13 - 1B.
>
>This shows on Page 7-34 that for copper oval sleeve stock number 28-2-G, as
>issued with the kits, plated sleeves are required on stainless cable due to
>electrolysis.
>
>It seems to me that the Europa News could have pointed out that the FAA
>recommends use of the factory supplied sleeves and hence the need to use the
>other sleeves 428-3VG must indeed be very modest indeed as this size is not
>even shown in the table in the FAA Advisory Circular.
>
>It would seem a good idea to at least advise where the part number
>originates and make more clear how insignificant is the need for change.
>
>J R (Bob) Gowing, Secretary, Rotary Club of Bega NSW, District 9710
>
>
Message 18
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Let's go with the best two out of three. But seriously, the parallel
arrangement (as I too have done it) is simpler, with fewer components, which
meets my requirements for good engineering. I haven't a clue why the Rotax
folks would change from parallel to series, and can not think of a single
advantage to running two pumps in series, unless the pumps used in series
are so puny as to need a two stage arrangement just to get sufficient
pressure - and that would be really bad engineering for something essential
to keeping the big fan turning.
I have searched the "Publication Index for ROTAX Aircraft Engines" at the
Rotax web site and found no Service Bulletins that even mention the 914 fuel
pump nor any indication that there is a need to change from parallel to
series plumbing.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of paul stewart
Subject: Europa-List: fuel system
--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart"
<paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
I think this may have been discussed before but I cant remember. The europa
914 installation manual and the Rotax installation manual(1996) both
instruct me to set up the two electrical fuel pumps in parallel - which I
have now done in aluminium fuel line. The Rotax operators manual(1998)
however instructs me to have the two pumps in series with two one-way chech
valves in parallel to them. Whats a man to think?
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
Message 19
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
>> In addition, to get the cowl centred on the prop flange requires more material
to be removed on the starboard side than the port side to take account of the
engine offset. Is this roughly what others have found?
Yes. Have fun :)
Tony
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