Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:04 AM - filler (Graham Singleton)
2. 06:32 AM - Re: Zolotone (Troy Maynor)
3. 07:52 AM - Re: filler (Rob Housman)
4. 08:00 AM - Redux, Araldite (Troy Maynor)
5. 08:33 AM - Re: Dynon EFIS (paul stewart)
6. 08:37 AM - filler (Fred R. Klein)
7. 09:22 AM - Change of e-mail address (Peter Davis)
8. 09:27 AM - filler (Cliff Shaw)
9. 09:45 AM - Re: filler (paul stewart)
10. 09:55 AM - filler (paul stewart)
11. 10:14 AM - Re: filler (Jeff Roberts)
12. 10:43 AM - lunchtime fly-ins for retired Europans (bryan allsop)
13. 10:48 AM - Re: filler (n3eu@comcast.net)
14. 01:09 PM - Re: filler (Ami McFadyean)
15. 01:41 PM - pip pin covers/mods (Mike)
16. 03:23 PM - Re: lunchtime fly-ins for retired Europans (Carl & Dot)
17. 03:45 PM - Re: filler ()
18. 06:21 PM - filler - thanks to All! (Fred R. Klein)
19. 08:36 PM - Re: Interference? (Michael Parkin)
20. 10:57 PM - Re: pip pin covers/mods (R.C.Harrison)
21. 11:02 PM - Re: lunchtime fly-ins for retired Europans (R.C.Harrison)
22. 11:15 PM - Re: filler (Rowland Carson)
23. 11:45 PM - Wingtip too thick repair (Ronald J. Parigoris)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 06/11/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: filler
>
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1@comcast.net>
>
>Jeremy,
>Although I am not up to using expancel yet I agree with Neville and Co. that
>mixing the epoxy before adding filler is a very good idea.
>I asked Neville if there was a recommend weight ratio to the expancel and he
>said to mix it until it is like bread dough, then apply a very light coating
>of epoxy
Jeremy
I found it very difficult to mix filler by weight, the Expansel is almost
weightless, even 1/10th gm alters it. Viscocity and therefore spreadability
varies with temperature. My recipe is
1 use a bit of colloidal silica, it helps spreading and flowing
2 get it all on in the first main application, sanded filler absorbs
resin from later applications and leaves a hard ring at the
feathered edges, almost impossible to sand level.
3 I use a serrated scraper for the first coat, 2mm deep serrations,
then go over with a straight scraper and more filler to level it
out. The other way is the strimmer line technique I've described
before, that works well too on wings and things. Invented by
Ron Swinden, our first chairman
Graham
Graham
---
Message 2
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Thanks Jim,
Never thought to look for a website for instructions. I was wondering, will
your windows or windscreen already be installed when you spray or will you
just mask the paint when redux squeezes out from the window installation?
What have the rest of you done that have painted the interior?
Troy Maynor
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Butcher
Subject: Europa-List: Zolotone
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net>
Troy,
I hope to spray Zolotone in the next month. Be sure to check their website
for good application instructions. I'm using their primer since I think it
will result in better results (I hope more durable!). I'm using my Axis
citation HVLP. They say they've sprayed Zolotone with it. Will let you
know.
Jim Butcher A185
Message 3
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
I'm still incredulous. The deepest depression that I needed to fill was
from damage in transit (probably on the truck, not the ship) to the factory
moldings, and these were more like 0.025 inch or 0.6mm deep, in other words
about one-tenth the "recommended" filler thickness. As for the foam core
surfaces, the manual says "...simply fill the weave of the cloth" and
advises to "Apply it (the filler) just thick enough so that you can not see
the weave through it." Even more to the point is this comment "As you sand
away the filler you will eventually (or quite quickly if you did not lump it
on thickly to start with) see the weave of the cloth appear."
My bonded joints to the factory moldings were the most difficult to get
right and did require several applications of filler, and although applying
a really thick first coat would have resulted in somewhat less work, it
would also likely have resulted in having more filler remain after sanding
(ergo, more weight).
But, hey, I'm just a novice, never having built an airplane before and
working on my first fiberglass project.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Subject: Re: Europa-List: filler
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
<paul.mcallister@qia.net>
> 1/4 inch (6mm) thick??? Surely you jest.
On the 1/4 thick topic, yes that was correct. Neville was right, at the end
of the day is was far quicker to sand off too much than muck about with
applying second and third coats. If you mix it up really dry like he
suggests it does come off fairly quickly. I used a plane to rough it down
and then sanded it with 80 grit paper.
Paul
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Hi All,
Do any of you folks (preferably in the US because of shipping or customs)
have any Redux or now called Araldite or Epibond 420(?) left over from your
completed project that you would like to part with? If so reply off list.
Thanks.
Troy Maynor
do not archive
Message 5
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
Have just got hold of our BMA EFIS and a lovely piece of kit it is too. The
down side is having to alter the panel to accommodate it though doubt this
is going to be too much of an issue.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Dynon EFIS
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net>
>
> I stand corrected, BMA is approved for the kit airplane. Since its not
> certified, it cant go in the certified plane (Columbia 300 or 400). Its
the
> only non certified EFIS approved by Lancair Avionics. If you havent
looked
> at BMA's web site, do so. I think they are several years ahead of Dynon -
> I've been working with Greg for about 4 years & he's had quite a learning
> curve. The others are where he was then.
>
> Just my 2 cents worth.
>
> Jim Butcher A185
>
>
Message 6
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
As I builder just now facing the task of filling, this current thread of
"filler" reminds me of an obscure typeface called "Threadfill" which is
fuzzy, wiggley, and difficult to decipher.
Don't get me wrong...I'm grateful to hear about so many builders'
experiences, and as a consequence, I'm hopeful to avoid pitfalls. And I'm
more than willing to apply the elbow grease and do whatever work is
necessary to get optimal results...nonetheless,
-I'm troubled conceptually with the notion of coating the wings and control
surfaces with as much as 1/4" of filler to be sanded and contoured which
would seem to run the serious risk of altering the airfoils with uncertain
results.
-I'm concerned with the comment that improperly applied filler results in a
surface which is too soft and vulnerable to dings in a fully-finished
airframe.
-I'm surprised to learn of the difficulties which apparently result in the
event that an initial coat of filler is found to be insufficient and
additional filler is required.
-And what is this "colloidal silica" and potential sources for acquiring
some?
Is there someone out there who can spell out "the way"...or am I, and others
like me, left to digest the instructions in the Europa manual with a grain
of salt and thoughtfully consider the various ways previous builders have
addressed this issue?
Would Neville or Andy be willing to stick their oars into this discussion?
a somewhat bewildered Fred, A194
Message 7
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| Subject: | Change of e-mail address |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Davis" <pm.davis@ntlworld.com>
Do not archive
Please note my new e-mail address below. My previous one has been
discontinued.
Regards,
Peter
mailto:pm.davis@ntlworld.com
This message has been scanned by Norton Internet Security for all known
viruses.
Message 8
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
All
This filler Thread is very wiggly.
I have built two XS kits. The filler is just filler. The manufactures of the
stuff have good directions for there use. It is basically suppose to just
level out the "slight" variations in the surface. Not contour the surface.
To do that, use a structural filler.
If you hear of 1/4" thick use, it is not just filling "slight" variations
(IMHO). The earlier builder may be talking about the old foam core wings.
Some of that work may have needed fairing out with filler due to workmanship
variation. We are not now faced with those problems.
Keep the fished filler as thin as you can, but don't sand the glass. I made
a micrometer depth gauge to fine the variations.
I mix my epoxy first, very well, then add filler a little at a time until it
will just hold a peak (like whipping cream) and the "shine" of the epoxy
disappears. I am not able to tell you how much filler that is because I
can't measure it . It is too soft to measure by volume and too light to
measure by weight.
I hope this helps those with concern about filler.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
Message 9
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
Fred
The fishing line technique described several times on this forum has served
us well. Lengths of fishing run over your surfaces spaced just less than the
spreader you intend to spread the filler with allow you to apply a layer of
filler the same thickness as the fishing line. We used fairly thick line (80
thou I think) - we tried thinner but the filler would not spread that thin.
We have used superfil with no complaints at all so far (I can't comment on
expancell and resin) other than the price. It does settle/separate
(hardner) so mix well. Its certainly very easy to mix small quantities to do
little jobs and there has been no batch variation in sanding texture. Having
done an initial fill and sand we have found a thin smear fills the majority
of pin holes - indeed with approx 3 goes at a surface we can't find any pin
holes with a magnifier (no doubt they will appear when we go to the
painter!). The initial fill is the 'big one', thereafter you are literally
smearing filler into the pin holes. We found 4" decorators spatulas (fairly
stiff) about ideal to put the filler on and the use of a hair dryer helps
the filler to flow. Using the fishing line, there is no need to get anything
like 1/4" of filler on your surfaces.
Other stuff we found useful - long sanding splines. We made several from 4mm
macrolon, attached a couple of handles and a layer of fairly dense foam (4mm
or so) to give some cushioning. We used 120 and 180 grit paper. Some log
straight edges are handy to guide you at leading edges etc.
Then just get going - it looks dreadful with the first layer of filler on
but fairly soon things improve. I can't claim to be an expert as we have
not yet painted but we have been please with the results and our painter
seems happy also.
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
Subject: Europa-List: filler
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein"
<fklein@orcasonline.com>
>
> As I builder just now facing the task of filling, this current thread of
> "filler" reminds me of an obscure typeface called "Threadfill" which is
> fuzzy, wiggley, and difficult to decipher.
>
> Don't get me wrong...I'm grateful to hear about so many builders'
> experiences, and as a consequence, I'm hopeful to avoid pitfalls. And I'm
> more than willing to apply the elbow grease and do whatever work is
> necessary to get optimal results...nonetheless,
>
> -I'm troubled conceptually with the notion of coating the wings and
control
> surfaces with as much as 1/4" of filler to be sanded and contoured which
> would seem to run the serious risk of altering the airfoils with uncertain
> results.
>
> -I'm concerned with the comment that improperly applied filler results in
a
> surface which is too soft and vulnerable to dings in a fully-finished
> airframe.
>
> -I'm surprised to learn of the difficulties which apparently result in the
> event that an initial coat of filler is found to be insufficient and
> additional filler is required.
>
> -And what is this "colloidal silica" and potential sources for acquiring
> some?
>
> Is there someone out there who can spell out "the way"...or am I, and
others
> like me, left to digest the instructions in the Europa manual with a grain
> of salt and thoughtfully consider the various ways previous builders have
> addressed this issue?
>
> Would Neville or Andy be willing to stick their oars into this discussion?
>
> a somewhat bewildered Fred, A194
>
>
Message 10
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart@virgin.net>
Fred
The fishing line technique described several times on this forum has served
us well. Lengths of fishing run over your surfaces spaced just less than the
spreader you intend to spread the filler with allow you to apply a layer of
filler the same thickness as the fishing line. We used fairly thick line (80
thou I think) - we tried thinner but the filler would not spread that thin.
We have used superfil with no complaints at all so far (I can't comment on
expancell and resin) other than the price. It does settle/separate
(hardner) so mix well. Its certainly very easy to mix small quantities to do
little jobs and there has been no batch variation in sanding texture. Having
done an initial fill and sand we have found a thin smear fills the majority
of pin holes - indeed with approx 3 goes at a surface we can't find any pin
holes with a magnifier (no doubt they will appear when we go to the
painter!). The initial fill is the 'big one', thereafter you are literally
smearing filler into the pin holes. We found 4" decorators spatulas (fairly
stiff) about ideal to put the filler on and the use of a hair dryer helps
the filler to flow. Using the fishing line, there is no need to get anything
like 1/4" of filler on your surfaces.
Other stuff we found useful - long sanding splines. We made several from 4mm
macrolon, attached a couple of handles and a layer of fairly dense foam (4mm
or so) to give some cushioning. We used 120 and 180 grit paper. Some log
straight edges are handy to guide you at leading edges etc.
Then just get going - it looks dreadful with the first layer of filler on
but fairly soon things improve. I can't claim to be an expert as we have
not yet painted but we have been please with the results and our painter
seems happy also.
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
Message 11
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
on 11/7/03 11:39 AM, Fred R. Klein at fklein@orcasonline.com wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
>
>
>
>
>
> a somewhat bewildered Fred, A194
>
>
>
>
>
>
Fred,
Don't worry. This falls under the list of how we all analyze till we're
paralyzed.
I simply filled till I just covered the weave with the kit-supplied filler
as per their instructions. Then I sanded till I started to see the weave.
Filled again then sanded again. Filled any other low spots then sanded
again. I figured if I see the weave I'm at the right shape. Just don't sand
into it. If you use the large sanding block with 1/2" or so foam glued to
it, described in the manual you'll eventually come up with a perfect finish.
Buy the best sandpaper and keep the shop vac ready to clean the fill off the
paper, It makes a difference. I have had no problems filling then
re-filling.
Sure there are better fillers, but the expancel is paid for and it works.
Just clean the weave with denatured alcohol, lightly sand it then fill it.
Around the tail plane flange on the fuselage was the only one place I had to
go thicker than 1/4 inch and thats when I laid up some bid over filler then
filled on top of that. Opinions of others is great but don't let it side
track you. Just get started and you'll be fine! It's a learning curve we all
have to go through. Thats part of the fun, I think.
Jeff
Tri A258
Message 12
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| Subject: | lunchtime fly-ins for retired Europans |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "bryan allsop" <info@blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk>
The days are getting shorter now in the UK, but having recently retired I am finding
more time to play with my toy ( the flying one).
Wouldn't it be nice to fly somewhere for a lunchtime snack somewhere and meet up
with some similarly retired Europa fliers. We could take advantage of the Flyer
magazine's free landing fee offers a couple of times a month.
Even if the weather looks to be unpleasant on the set day, we could re arrange
it to find a good day.
I do not mind putting it together if any body else fancies a go at it in the next
week or so. Please reply if you like the idea!
Bryan Allsop. G BYSA
Message 13
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--> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
Fred R. Klein wrote:
> -I'm troubled conceptually with the notion of coating the wings and control
> surfaces with as much as 1/4" of filler to be sanded and contoured which
> would seem to run the serious risk of altering the airfoils with uncertain
> results.
Sure can but is most critical in the first few inches of a laminar flow airfoil.
> -I'm concerned with the comment that improperly applied filler results in a
> surface which is too soft and vulnerable to dings in a fully-finished
> airframe.
Not good either, and too dry also makes it solvent-sensitive to a solvent-based
primer. But too wet and sanding becomes much tougher. SuperFil (or any premixed)
exempts one from both the art and science involved, in exchange for $$.
> -I'm surprised to learn of the difficulties which apparently result in the
> event that an initial coat of filler is found to be insufficient and
> additional filler is required.
No surprise if you've done automotive bodywork. Depends upon how much waviness
you can tolerate after gloss coat applied. It sounds attractive to be able to
apply thick and then sand down deep enough so that basically one application
does it. In practice, the sanding of a large surface is much more laborious
to the point of not saving any time, in my exp.
> Is there someone out there who can spell out "the way"...or am I, and others
> like me, left to digest the instructions in the Europa manual with a grain
> of salt and thoughtfully consider the various ways previous builders have
> addressed this issue?
There's so much individual preference here, why not just buy a sample SuperFil
or such and try it along with expancel/laminating resin and see what you like?
You can safely have both on the same test surface.
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 14
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
> -I'm troubled conceptually with the notion of coating the wings and
control
> surfaces with as much as 1/4" of filler to be sanded
Most of the Classics that I know of needed 1/4" of filler around the base of
the fin, where it attaches to the stub on the fuselage. Now different on the
XS of course.
Elsewhere, the average filler depth was about 1mm, depending how straight
things are required. Anyway, the wing droops under its own weight by more
than 2mm, so don't try filling-out that!
Personally, I made a contour map of the flying surfaces before filling so
that the low areas could be filled preferentially and so that I knew where
the highspots were, these obviously being the first to go bare during
sanding.
Whilst its important to sand-off all in one go, its not actually critical to
get all the filler on in one go; meaning that it can be built up in
successive layers, so long as there is no sanding done between each layer.
Duncan McF.
Message 15
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| Subject: | pip pin covers/mods |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike" <mp.gamble@virgin.net>
I'm sure there are numerous simple designs for pip pin covers. Mine centres around
a plastic plumbing pipe screwed end with mating plug.
If any have actually been approved by the PFA I can refer to same on my application
so I would appreciate receiving detail of such.
Incidentally do club modifications which have been cleared still require notifying
to the PFA?
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: lunchtime fly-ins for retired Europans |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl & Dot" <carl_p@ntlworld.com>
do we have to be retired to qualify for your offer ???
Otherwise i will have to wait for a little while longer ( or a long while if
this government has its way !!!)
I often have Wednesdays off (just need a helping hand to help me rig)
----- Original Message -----
From: "bryan allsop" <info@blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: lunchtime fly-ins for retired Europans
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "bryan allsop"
<info@blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk>
>
> The days are getting shorter now in the UK, but having recently retired I
am finding more time to play with my toy ( the flying one).
> Wouldn't it be nice to fly somewhere for a lunchtime snack somewhere and
meet up with some similarly retired Europa fliers. We could take advantage
of the Flyer magazine's free landing fee offers a couple of times a month.
> Even if the weather looks to be unpleasant on the set day, we could re
arrange it to find a good day.
> I do not mind putting it together if any body else fancies a go at it in
the next week or so. Please reply if you like the idea!
>
> Bryan Allsop. G BYSA
>
>
Message 17
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--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
Duncan: "so long as there is no sanding done between each layer."
I have sanded between layers many times. Doesn't seem to cause any
problems.
Tom Friedland
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ami
McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: filler
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
<ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
> -I'm troubled conceptually with the notion of coating the wings and
control
> surfaces with as much as 1/4" of filler to be sanded
Most of the Classics that I know of needed 1/4" of filler around the
base of
the fin, where it attaches to the stub on the fuselage. Now different on
the
XS of course.
Elsewhere, the average filler depth was about 1mm, depending how
straight
things are required. Anyway, the wing droops under its own weight by
more
than 2mm, so don't try filling-out that!
Personally, I made a contour map of the flying surfaces before filling
so
that the low areas could be filled preferentially and so that I knew
where
the highspots were, these obviously being the first to go bare during
sanding.
Whilst its important to sand-off all in one go, its not actually
critical to
get all the filler on in one go; meaning that it can be built up in
successive layers, so long as there is no sanding done between each
layer.
Duncan McF.
=
_-
_-
_-
_-
==
==
==
==
Message 18
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| Subject: | filler - thanks to All! |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
I want to express my gratitude for the several responses to my plaintive
plea!
I recall a pre-cyberspace adage among kitbuilders: Never Build in Isolation!
Thanks to this forum, that's no longer a problem for me; I live on a small
island in the Pacific Northwest, and without the forum, I would probably
dither in my own mind-stew...notwithstanding the outstanding factory support
which is available. This weekend I promise to send a check to support
matronics...it has to be the best money I will have spent to date since my
kit purchase.
Incidently, I've made a practice of copying various threads into open-ended
files under various headings in my Europa archives folder, which I think
will make the info more accessible for me as I reach various stages in the
build.
Now...back to the workshop!
a much relieved Fred, A194
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Interference? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin@btopenworld.com>
Mike,
Yup, been there done that.
I rounded the CS08s a little to stop the fouling - sems to work OK.
regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <DuaneFamly@aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Interference?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
>
> Good Day to all....especially those that are flying,
>
> I have just completed installing the cockpit module into the canoe. That
> Redux job was an interesting ballet of asses and elbows, but it got done
with only
> one minor(?) hitch. Now when I move the control column far left and right
I
> get an interference about halfway to the stop. After careful looking I
have
> found that both CS08 cranks are pushing against the bottom skin. Did I do
> something wrong? Has this happened to anyone else?
>
> Mike Duane A207
> Redding, California
> XS Conventional Gear
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: pip pin covers/mods |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
Hi! Mike.
My a/c has the plastic plug . The PFA approved it on their inspection so I
don't know if it was given a mod.no.
However you must "pot" the bottom of the construction with a deep layer of
epoxy(watch out for thermo. heating) deep enough to enable you to make a
recepticle hole for the top of the pip pin to be sure of no lateral movement
of the tail planes. Be sure to NOT ALLOW ANY THINNERS OR PAINT INTO THE
THREADS> or you will have a bad hair day. (They bond together!) I finished
up needing two aluminium screw caps turned at great expense!
regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <mp.gamble@virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: pip pin covers/mods
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike" <mp.gamble@virgin.net>
>
> I'm sure there are numerous simple designs for pip pin covers. Mine
centres around a plastic plumbing pipe screwed end with mating plug.
> If any have actually been approved by the PFA I can refer to same on my
application so I would appreciate receiving detail of such.
> Incidentally do club modifications which have been cleared still require
notifying to the PFA?
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: lunchtime fly-ins for retired Europans |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
Hi! Bryan.
Can't claim to be retired yet but the wife says she thinks I am AND I'm
spending her pension when I fly!
Keep me posted when and where?
Suggest Cark one day when I can get over the Pennines!
I have a friend in Windermere and he collects me and we have a lunch in "t
'ole int' Wall. "
Cark (Grange over Sands) is used by a parachute club but they make you very
welcome. I have all the details .
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG EUropa MKI/Jabiru 3300
----- Original Message -----
From: "bryan allsop" <info@blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: lunchtime fly-ins for retired Europans
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "bryan allsop"
<info@blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk>
>
> The days are getting shorter now in the UK, but having recently retired I
am finding more time to play with my toy ( the flying one).
> Wouldn't it be nice to fly somewhere for a lunchtime snack somewhere and
meet up with some similarly retired Europa fliers. We could take advantage
of the Flyer magazine's free landing fee offers a couple of times a month.
> Even if the weather looks to be unpleasant on the set day, we could re
arrange it to find a good day.
> I do not mind putting it together if any body else fancies a go at it in
the next week or so. Please reply if you like the idea!
>
> Bryan Allsop. G BYSA
>
>
Message 22
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
On 2003 11 07 at 21:08 +0000, Ami McFadyean wrote:
>I made a contour map of the flying surfaces
Duncan - please tell us how you did that - with one of those laser
scanner things maybe?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
| 650 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI
Message 23
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| Subject: | Wingtip too thick repair |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Went after the wingtip being too thick tonight. It was bout a 1/4 inch too
thick.
Slit the wingtip bout 16 inches, slit the rear closeout bout 22 inches. Filed
till when squozen it looked nice. Drilled a few holes on either side of the
closeout and safety wired with .025 SS wire. Very controllable the gap. Did the
same with the tip.
Very little stress and was able to adjust to get a fairly uniform gap with
aileron.
I tried slitting only bout 10 inches and there was a bunch of spring action that
I thought would be hard to get things where you wanted them. Also the airfoil
with the longer slit seems happier.
Left the safety wire on the closeout, just cut short and folded it flat, put a
dab of flox on top of it.
Did a 2 ply BID 2 inch wide on plastic. Filled the mini gap with some flox and
put 2 BID on both sides of closeout, and 2 BID on inside of Tip.
I am going to install the closeouts backwards so it is flat on the edge.
Ron Parigoris
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