Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:22 AM - fuel pressure switch (Klaus Dietrich)
2. 01:45 AM - Re: Layup on Balsa TE of Trim Tabs (Miles McCallum)
3. 01:58 AM - Re: Fitting Stall Stips (Andy Draper)
4. 03:16 AM - Re: Fuel pressure switch (David Joyce)
5. 04:21 AM - Re: Electrical questions (Brian Davies)
6. 07:14 AM - Stall Strips (Carl & Dot)
7. 07:16 AM - Love it, love it........ (Fergus Kyle)
8. 08:47 AM - Europa video and status (Alan Milner - Work)
9. 09:12 AM - Re: Electrical questions (M.J. Gregory)
10. 09:38 AM - Mode S - and 17 Dec flying (David Corbett)
11. 01:04 PM - Re: monowheel positon of stab and aileron (owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com)
12. 01:15 PM - Re: Love it, love it........ (Ami McFadyean)
13. 02:19 PM - Re: Stall Strips (Michael Parkin)
14. 08:00 PM - flyrap (czechsix@juno.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | fuel pressure switch |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Klaus Dietrich <Klaus.Dietrich@oracle.com>
Brian,
here are the details of the Bosch pressure switch I'm using:
Bosch 0 344 101 055 oil pressure switch (0,05-0,15 bar) price approx
25,-
I inserted the switch into a "distribution tee" machined out of an small
aluminium block (2x2x2cm) with 4 connectors and fitted between the 2
carbs.
1 is for fuel arrival from the mechanical pump, 2 + 3 goes to the two
carbs and 4 is for the sensor. You can have a 5th connector for the
return line but I have a separate tee just before the "distribution tee"
with the reducer for the fuel return (as per Europa mod).
The Bosch sensor I use is the one with the lowest sensibility available
(according to my knowledge) and works fine with the Rotax ; so when ever
the pressure drops below the value of 0,05 -0,15 bar, the contact closes
(any fuel starvation or vapour locks is immediately visible with an
"lead time" of 10-30 seconds before the "problem" gets to the Carbs ->
will give you some time to switch on the fuel pump or to swich tanks...)
I have wired the switch to a red LED on my panel.
Hope this helps.
Klaus
Time: 11:52:44 AM PST US
From: "Brian Hutchinson" <hutch@hangarbout.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel pressure switch
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Hutchinson"
<hutch@hangarbout.fsnet.co.uk>
Hi guys,
I'm trying to source a (low) fuel pressure switch for use with a 912s,
with nipple
connections suitable for the Europa's finest rubber fuel tube. I've
studied
the archives, and all leads so far have dried up. Does anyone know of a
uk supplier
of a suitable switch? I assume a switch that would operate at about 3
P.S.I. is about right.
Apologies to David Joyce, who did once give me a page out of a brochure,
I must
have filed it somewhere very safe!
Brian Hutchinson
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Layup on Balsa TE of Trim Tabs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Miles McCallum" <milesm@avnet.co.uk>
In my mispent youth, thrashing motorcycles around various circuits, we
learned the same lesson - robustness was more important than ultimate
lightness: a visit to the small brick outhouse was worth more than all the
drilling and unobtanium you could do on the bike - nice to be in front, but
not worth a light if it broke before the chequered flag...
Miles
- The point I was making was that, given
> a weight disadvantage of effectively zero, I would prefer not to pratt
> about with balsa but use something more serviceable and durable - common
> sense really. If it remains an issue for anyone - use hardwood flettners
> for robustness and then pluck your nasal hair before you fly in order to
> achieve the same end result! !
>
> Alan G 497
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting Stall Stips |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Andy Draper" <andy@europa-aircraft.com>
Dear Carl,
The fitting of stall strips was originally devised as a means of complying with
the requirement that it is necessary to provide a stall warning of at least 5kts.
The wing alone provided only 2 -3 3 kts. The stall strips were also found
useful in enabling the 'tuning out' any adverse behaviour at the stall, as
some Classic wing owners do find, however if fitted or adjusted incorrectly you
could also adversely affect the take off and landing performace. Correctly
fitted, they will not do so. The template provides a good starting position
for the stall strips which should not make much affect at all, except perhaps
increase pre stall buffet. Only subsequent flight tests will enable the fine
tuning for eliminating any wing drop at the stall.
You probably know all this anyway as it's all described in Chapter 9 of the Owners
Handbook, but your question to the Forum indicated that you may have thought
that it may no longer be valid with the introduction of the audible stall warner.
My philosophy now is to suggest the fitting of the audible stall warner
for stall warning and only fit stall strips to tune out bad behaviour at the
stall.
One thing to check before you go to far is to check the flap extension angles.
As the wing drop only occurs in the landing configuration, is perhaps one flap
extending slightly further than the other? A more extended flap will enable
the wing to stall at a slightly higher CL.
Also to confirm is that the aircfaft is in fact in balance at the stall rather
than the 'ball' being in the middle. I have seen Turn Coordinators set so they
are level with the panel but the panel itself is not quite level with the aircraft.
I hope that this is of some help.
Best Regards
Andy Draper
Technical Director
e-mail andy@europa-aircraft.com
>>> "Carl & Dot" <carl_p@ntlworld.com> 10/12/03 23:35:03 >>>
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl & Dot" <carl_p@ntlworld.com>
Does anyone that is flying have any views regarding the fitment of stall
strips. We were initially advised that these were a bad idea and that an
electric stall warner was a better option. From what I remember, stall
strips are supposed to have an adverse effect on the landing characteristics
of the aircraft.
We just recently completed our annual test flight and were a little
concerned that the aircraft has a habit of stalling left-wing down. With
the flaps up this is fairly benign, but with the flaps down is fairly
dramatic. The wing drops are easily recovered using standard techniques but
it would be nicer if we could eliminate this problem somehow. I discussed
this with several people last year and they were of the opinion that the
wing drop could be caused by the aircraft being out of balance prior to the
stall, however we tried repeated stalls with everything in balance and there
is still a significant drop to the left.
Has anyone attempted to eliminate a dropped wing by playing around with the
positioning of the stall strips and if so how successful was this. For the
time being we are relying on an electric stall warner which is excellent and
we are very happy with it but it would still be nice if we could get the
wings to stall in a more symmetrical manner, not that we intend to make
habit of stalling the aircraft.
Also what effect do stall strips have on landing/ takeoff performance.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
PS: If you fitted stall strips, how close to the factory reccomendations did
you end up. The book says about 12ins outboard of the fuselage and slightly
below the centreline of the leading edge (as per the template).
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure switch |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
Brian, My fuel pressure switch came from OEM Automatic and cost something
like 16 They sell a large variety of different pressure range, different
diaphragm material and normally on or off switches, and different end thread
types. Service was very good, and they sent a catalogue promptly after a
phone request. I chose type 0166 with Viton diaphragm (impervious to
gasoline & hydraulic fluid) adjustable (by you) in pressure range.1 to 1.0
bar, normally closed, together with a protective cap to go over the
electrics. A mechanical life of 1,000,000 cycles is quoted which should last
your flying career! Set at 0.15 Bar mine has worked perfectly for 180 hrs
flying, switching on a bright LED in front of my nose if main tank is about
to run out, but giving you time to change over without drama. Contact
details: OEM Automatic Ltd, Whiteacres,
Cambridge Road,Whetstone,
Leicester, LE8 6ZG
Tel 0116 2849900
Fax 0116 2841721
Regards (again!) David----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Hutchinson <hutch@hangarbout.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel pressure switch
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Hutchinson"
<hutch@hangarbout.fsnet.co.uk>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm trying to source a (low) fuel pressure switch
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical questions |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
Mike,
I am bit confused by your comment regarding the slow blow fuse. I thought
Paul was asking about the main 30 amp alternator fuse, which is there to
protect the alternator wiring, not protect the system for over voltage,
Surely, even with the crowbar circuit, you still need a 30 amp fuse in the
main alternator feed line?
Brian Davies kit 454
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory@talk21.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electrical questions
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory@talk21.com>
>
> Paul,
>
> Further to the previous answers, there are two principal reasons for
having
> a switch between the alternator output and the bus bar: first, to enable
the
> bus bar to be isolated from the alternator in the event of an electrical
> emergency (if smoke came out of the wires, switching off the battery
master
> would still leave the alternator feeding the bus as long as the engine was
> running); second, having followed the Rotax recommendation to feed one
> electrical pump for the 914 directly from the alternator, the bus
isolation
> switch avoids that pump running from the battery whenever the battery
master
> switch is on with the engine stopped (e.g. if you wish to set up way
points
> on your GPS before starting).
>
> The reason for having a slow-blow fuse is to avoid nuisance trips caused
by
> current surges. This requirement can be satisfied with a standard (as
> opposed to a "fast-acting") fuse. However, if you are planning to
> incorporate overvoltage protection you will need a circuit breaker and an
> alternator relay rather than a fuse to follow Bob Nuckolls' advice (see
the
> Air Electric Connection circuit Z 7 designed for permanent-magnet
> alternators such as on Rotax 912/914).
>
> Mike
> Europa Club Safety Officer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
McAllister
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Electrical questions
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
> <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am at that interesting stage (not sanding & filling). I have a couple
of
> questions.
>
> 1. The Rotax engine monitor shows a double pole switch that is for
> disabling the waste gate servo. Why would I want this, has anyone fitted
> this ?
>
> 2. The Europa manual shows a 25 amp switch for between the alternator
> output and the main buss. I intend to install an OVP so I don't see the
> need for an additional switch, am I missing something here.
>
> 3. Last question, what have folks been using for 30 amp slow blow fuses.
> The only thing I have come across is fusible links the Bob Nuckles uses
> which I don't particularly care for.
>
> My current thinking is an E-Buss feed arrangement with an auxiliary
battery,
> but to still feed one fuel pump (914) directly from the alternator output
as
> described in the Europa & Rotax manuals.
>
> I welcome any comments.
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
>
Message 6
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl & Dot" <carl_p@ntlworld.com>
In response to my enquiry about stall strips, I received the following
helpful advice from Andy Draper. It explains exactly why we fit stall strips
and what you should be looking out for when there is a wing dropping
problem.
I have added my comments at the end.
ORIGINAL MESSAGE
-- Europa-List message posted by: "Andy Draper" <andy@europa-aircraft.com
Dear Carl,
The fitting of stall strips was originally devised as a means of complying
with the requirement that it is necessary to provide a stall warning of at
least 5kts. The wing alone provided only 2 -3 3 kts. The stall strips were
also found useful in enabling the 'tuning out' any adverse behaviour at the
stall, as some Classic wing owners do find, however if fitted or adjusted
incorrectly you could also adversely affect the take off and landing
performace. Correctly fitted, they will not do so. The template provides
a good starting position for the stall strips which should not make much
affect at all, except perhaps increase pre stall buffet. Only subsequent
flight tests will enable the fine tuning for eliminating any wing drop at
the stall.
You probably know all this anyway as it's all described in Chapter 9 of the
Owners Handbook, but your question to the Forum indicated that you may have
thought that it may no longer be valid with the introduction of the audible
stall warner. My philosophy now is to suggest the fitting of the audible
stall warner for stall warning and only fit stall strips to tune out bad
behaviour at the stall.
One thing to check before you go to far is to check the flap extension
angles. As the wing drop only occurs in the landing configuration, is
perhaps one flap extending slightly further than the other? A more extended
flap will enable the wing to stall at a slightly higher CL.
Also to confirm is that the aircfaft is in fact in balance at the stall
rather than the 'ball' being in the middle. I have seen Turn Coordinators
set so they are level with the panel but the panel itself is not quite level
with the aircraft.
I hope that this is of some help.
Best Regards
Andy Draper
Dear Andy,
Thanks for the info which I found most useful.
I think the way forward (weather permitting) is to first check the symmetry
of the flaps etc (whether one is extending further than the other) and also
check . Then if everything is ok start playing around with the stall strips.
Mike Dolphin did the original flight test and he felt that the wing drop
was not uncommon on the Europas he had flown. The stall warner goes off a
good 5kts before anything adverse happens so there is a level of protection
there.
As one dosent normally stall an AC deliberately this isnt a pressing issue
at the moment but if for any reason the stall warner failed to operate and
the wing dropped close to the ground we would be in an unrecoverable
situation (as opposed to both wings stalling simultaneously). There is of
course always the pre stall buffett but I know from past experience that
when things are going wrong in the air ones brains are often on a different
planet and even the most obvious warning signals can be ignored.
I think until the wing drop issue is resolved we need to be sure the stall
warner is checked prior to each flight (it is now part of the pre flight
checks).
Many thanks again for your help.
Regards,
Carl
-------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Love it, love it........ |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Ah! the give and take of technological research makes great reading. I am
rushing upstairs to the mirror as we speak.
Does not compute!
The centre of mass of the trim tab AND the extra lead/steel needed to
counterbalance it is forward of where tail ballast would be added. So more
weight in total will be needed. This is the same principle as your (correct)
argument for incurring additional total weight for a battery mounted in the
rear.
The point I> was making was that given the trim tabs are at the rear, any
extra weight> (although absolutely minimal in any case) wouldn't effect the
weight of
the> aircraft since you would simply require less lead in the fin for final
balance.
>Mounting the battery in the luggage bay area might negate the need for lead
>in the fin but will increase overall weight because of the heavy cable runs
>required.
> > Actually, it means more lead in the aircraft, because any additional
weight
> > in the Fletner strips has to be counterbalanced!
err! ! ! - I think we're arguing about semantics here.
Both the extra weight of the hardwood trim tab and the increase in
counterbalance weight is still significantly rearward of the aircraft's Cof
G. The combined mass of stabilator and counterbalance has a C of G
coincident with the torque tube. Sure, strictly speaking, as the lead in
the fin post is rearward of the torque tube, a lighter stabilator will
result in a very slightly lighter finish due to the slight rearward position
of the lead weight exerting an increased and more effective moment. In
practise, this longitudinal difference- torque tube to fin post - tends to
zero and therefore the weight of the stab assembly will have very little
effect on overall aircraft weight.
There comes a point where you have to consider practical reality rather than
worrying about every last nanogram! - The point I was making was that, given
a weight disadvantage of effectively zero, I would prefer not to pratt
about with balsa but use something more serviceable and durable - common
sense really. If it remains an issue for anyone - use hardwood flettners
for robustness and then pluck your nasal hair before you fly in order to
achieve the same end result! !
Having the habit of reading the bottom line first, I came across this
beauty:
> for robustness and then pluck your nasal hair before you fly in order to
> achieve the same end result! !
Makes you scratch your head as well eh :-)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Europa video and status |
|September 22, 2000) at 12/11/2003 04:49:26 PM,
Serialize by Router on Hub-LMSCentralNS01/LMSCentral/Leica(Release 5.0.5
|September
22, 2000) at 12/11/2003 04:49:26 PM,
Serialize complete at 12/11/2003 04:49:26 PM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on smtp2/LMSCentral/Leica(Release 5.0.8 |June 18,
2001) at
11/12/2003 16:49:45,
Serialize by Router on smtp2/LMSCentral/Leica(Release 5.0.8 |June 18, 2001)
at
11/12/2003 16:49:46,
Serialize complete at 11/12/2003 16:49:46
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Milner - Work" <alan_milner@totalise.co.uk>
Rowland
I've recently been trying to find a copy of that "Plane is Born" programme
which was on Dsicovery Channel a few years ago. I had been promised a copy
from someone some time ago but that never came to anything. Do you know
anyone with a copy I could borrow?
Also, just for your info I've been beavering away quite alot lately (despite
having to take a few months out here and there) and have just completed the
last aileron layup. I was keen to get the big layups out of the way before
the weather turns really cold and I need a powerstation next door to keep
the workshop snug enough.
Alan
This email has been scanned for all viruses by the MessageLabs Email
Security System. For more information on a proactive email security
service working around the clock, around the globe, visit
http://www.messagelabs.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Electrical questions |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory@talk21.com>
Yes, Brian, you are quite correct in saying that with a crowbar circuit the
alternator output wiring still needs protection, and the 30-amp fuse could
be retained for this purpose. Alternatively, Bob Nuckoll's suggestion of a
16 AWG fuse link in the 12 AWG alternator circuit could be adopted
(although, interestingly, in Z 7 he puts the fuse link at the battery end of
the line and does not specify any protection between the battery contactor
and the bus: it would be important to ensure that this cable was well
protected mechanically to keep the smoke in). Note that in the UK the PFA
does not encourage the use of fuse links rather than fuses.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com On Behalf Of Brian Davies
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Electrical questions
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
Mike,
I am bit confused by your comment regarding the slow blow fuse. I thought
Paul was asking about the main 30 amp alternator fuse, which is there to
protect the alternator wiring, not protect the system for over voltage,
Surely, even with the crowbar circuit, you still need a 30 amp fuse in the
main alternator feed line?
Brian Davies kit 454
Message 10
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| Subject: | Mode S - and 17 Dec flying |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Corbett" <David.Corbett@fwi.co.uk>
I recently attended a meeting at CAA Gatwick at which Mode S was a subject covered
in depth. I have written a report for Dave to publish in a forthcoming Europa
Flyer (the Club magazine, for those of you who are not members) - but I am
not sure if it is in the edition now at the printers, or the one that will follow
in 2 months.
Do NOT go out buying Mode S transponders yet - read what I say!
17th December - UK flyers. I understand that we are all invited to register our intentions for that day on the AOPA website www.aopa.co.uk so that AOPA will be able to collate movements and then use this for positive GA publicity.
Pray for good weather - I will be off to Turweston with the Shobdon and Gloster
Struts.
See you there!
David
G BZAM UK 265 (220 hours now)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: monowheel positon of stab and aileron |
--> Europa-List message posted by:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Subject: Europa-List: monowheel positon of stab and aileron
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
> >Subject: Europa-List: Monowheel position of elevator and aileron?
> >Sorry to bother you with this question, figured would get an easy answer
> from the >group.
> > NOT!
> > Curious
> > When taxing a monowheel with a 20 knot quartering tailwind, lets say
from
> the left, do
> >you keep the elevator full forward and the stick full deflected to the
> right?
> There IS a difference between an elevator and a stabilator. The
> first changes the shape of the control surface, such that
a
> down elevator curves the elevator/stabilizer control making it more
> sensitive to unwanted wind vagueries. The stabilator does not
> change shape so is not as sensitive (say to tipping up the tail from a
> tailwind). Judging the severity of the effect is a Command
decision
> and comes mostly from experience
>
> >Since the Europa has outriggers, for all I know dragging the downwind
> outrigger does >more good in keeping things straight than trying to keep
the
> upwind wing down?
> Because of outriggers, the problem of preventing wing-up events
> tends to be less critical. Nevertheless it is good practice to select
up
> aileron into wind o spoil any potential lifting tendency. All of this
> of course depends on the strength of the gust/wind. I would
believe
> any sidewind meeting a lifting surface would tend to reduce
> directional control, even slightly.
>
> >As far as the elevator, for all i know perhaps the huge prop spinning
puts
> flow from >front to back instead of back to front?
> I dont believe (with a tailwind) you will want to add to its
effect
> by increasing speed/power with the prop. The only time to
> blast with power is to correct a sudden swing - and then only for an
> instant. This is a neglected practice, but a vital one in a Boeing
> Stearman. Otherwise, throttle back.
>
> >I honest don't know, but my guess is full forward and full to the right.
> I wont do that. You are reducing the one thing giving directional
> control - the tailwheel
Besides, I dont think theres a hard and fast
> rule for any control position. If you sense a threatening tailwind,
> stick full back because the stab will be stalled and you may be adding
> weight to the tailwheel.
Ferg and all.
It all depends, - at what speed is the slipstream from an idling prop
travelling (in zero wind conditions)? I think we need to know this figure
as it will give us a cue on how to put the stick should we pick up a
tailwind. A strong wind from behind can easily overcome this prop wash - and
I believe that sitting with the stick in your lap under such conditions can
give you a surprise. It will do you no good for tailwheel steering as the
pressure on it will be less than with zero wind. The wind will simply push
on the upward orientated stabilator. (Or elevator).
Another cue would be to simply hold the stick in the direction "it's being
blown". (Pitch-wise). And if that's forward it would indicate that the
tailwind has overcome the propwash and that the wind from behind will press
on the downsloping stab as seen from the rear - giving increased pressure on
the tailwheel. We do this on the DC-3, and in the old days, on the "ground
looping bastard" Curtiss C-46, this was even more so the bible. Taxying
these aircraft are a challenge and often a two-man job. The name of the game
was (and is) to proceed with utmost caution (read taxying at walking pace)
and "fly" the aircraft while ground maneuvering - meaning stick always into
wind to spoil lift on upwind wing and to let downwind aileron act as
airbrake. The Europa mono may be even more challenging without
differentional braking capabilities. Some maximum wind figures would
therefore be wise to establish. !
Hans, kit 334, in Norway.
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Love it, love it........ |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
".....> err! ! ! - I think we're arguing about semantics here.
......"
I totally agree! and the effect is close to zero and not worth the effort.
But if there is to be any technical debate then it shouldn't be conducted on
the basis of flawed technical principles.
Otherwise it is doubly meaningless.
Notwithstandng that, being paranoid about weight as a matter of habit
enables the production of a light aircraft.
Rgds.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Subject: Europa-List: Love it, love it........
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
> Ah! the give and take of technological research makes great reading. I am
> rushing upstairs to the mirror as we speak.
>
> Does not compute!
> The centre of mass of the trim tab AND the extra lead/steel needed to
> counterbalance it is forward of where tail ballast would be added. So more
> weight in total will be needed. This is the same principle as your
(correct)
> argument for incurring additional total weight for a battery mounted in
the
> rear.
>
> The point I> was making was that given the trim tabs are at the rear, any
> extra weight> (although absolutely minimal in any case) wouldn't effect
the
> weight of
> the> aircraft since you would simply require less lead in the fin for
final
> balance.
> >Mounting the battery in the luggage bay area might negate the need for
lead
> >in the fin but will increase overall weight because of the heavy cable
runs
> >required.
>
> > > Actually, it means more lead in the aircraft, because any additional
> weight
> > > in the Fletner strips has to be counterbalanced!
>
> err! ! ! - I think we're arguing about semantics here.
> Both the extra weight of the hardwood trim tab and the increase in
> counterbalance weight is still significantly rearward of the aircraft's
Cof
> G. The combined mass of stabilator and counterbalance has a C of G
> coincident with the torque tube. Sure, strictly speaking, as the lead in
> the fin post is rearward of the torque tube, a lighter stabilator will
> result in a very slightly lighter finish due to the slight rearward
position
> of the lead weight exerting an increased and more effective moment. In
> practise, this longitudinal difference- torque tube to fin post - tends to
> zero and therefore the weight of the stab assembly will have very little
> effect on overall aircraft weight.
> There comes a point where you have to consider practical reality rather
than
> worrying about every last nanogram! - The point I was making was that,
given
> a weight disadvantage of effectively zero, I would prefer not to pratt
> about with balsa but use something more serviceable and durable - common
> sense really. If it remains an issue for anyone - use hardwood flettners
> for robustness and then pluck your nasal hair before you fly in order to
> achieve the same end result! !
>
> Having the habit of reading the bottom line first, I came across this
> beauty:
> > for robustness and then pluck your nasal hair before you fly in order to
> > achieve the same end result! !
> Makes you scratch your head as well eh :-)
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Stall Strips |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin@btopenworld.com>
Carl,
I found that my classic wing europa xs had a real nasty left wing drop at
the stall, particularly in the approach configuration. I fitted the europa
stall warner which I am very pleased with. However, I noticed that although
the ailerons were perfectly aligned at the neutral position on the ground,
in the air, I noticed a slight right aileron droop with the aircraft in 1g
flight. Over a few flights I trimmed the droop out of the right aileron and
as if by magic, the stall became very tame. Both clean and approach config
stalls are now very benign. It is possible to hold the aircraft in the
stall with the stick right back and all it does is 'waddle', no nose or wing
drop - 'perfick'.
regards,
Mike G-JULZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl & Dot" <carl_p@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Stall Strips
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl & Dot" <carl_p@ntlworld.com>
>
> In response to my enquiry about stall strips, I received the following
> helpful advice from Andy Draper. It explains exactly why we fit stall
strips
> and what you should be looking out for when there is a wing dropping
> problem.
>
> I have added my comments at the end.
>
Message 14
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--> Europa-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
flyrap
On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 22:53:06 +0000 europa-list@matronics.com writes:
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> --> Europa-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
> _->
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
> rdan
>
>
>
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