Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:30 AM - Re: Ground plane size for GPS antenna (nigel charles)
2. 01:00 AM - Re: Wing spar pins (Andy Draper)
3. 02:20 AM - Re: Wing spar pins ? (David Joyce)
4. 02:44 AM - Cruise Power (Hans - Peter Reusser)
5. 05:53 AM - Re: Wing spar pins (Troy Maynor)
6. 06:29 AM - Re: Ground plane size for GPS antenna (n3eu@comcast.net)
7. 11:01 AM - Rear access panels (Alan Twigg)
8. 02:52 PM - Re: Wing spar pins (Kingsley Hurst)
9. 04:01 PM - Re: Ground plane size for GPS antenna (Jim Brown)
10. 04:14 PM - Re: Choosing an EFIS (RK Hallett III)
11. 04:33 PM - Re: Wing spar pins (R.C.Harrison)
12. 04:50 PM - Re: Rear access panels (James Nelson)
13. 04:53 PM - Re: Choosing an EFIS (Cliff Shaw)
14. 05:21 PM - Re: Choosing an EFIS (Dj Merrill)
15. 05:39 PM - Re: Choosing an EFIS (Cliff Shaw)
16. 06:34 PM - Re: Wing spar pins (Troy Maynor)
17. 06:46 PM - Re: Ground plane size for GPS antenna ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Ground plane size for GPS antenna |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>I am installing a GX60 and I seem to recall a minimum size requirement
for the GPS antenna, however upon scouring the installation manual I
can't find a reference to this. Has anyone out there had experience
with installing approach certified GPS unit and have any recommendations<
>A cd works great! (AOL is good for something!)<
The CD may work OK but just need to make sure you get a good electrical
contact for the screen. Also it is on the small side of what is recommended
(5.5" or 150mm) and you still need to arrange a mounting.
I have an alternative suggestion.
With leftover resin and 'bid' make a 4 layup sheet (150mm square minimum)
with a 25mm flange included on one side (peel ply the outer edge of the
flange). Include a sheet of tinfoil between the 3rd and 4th layers and leave
a central hole in the 4th layer to enable electrical contact. After cure,
the two corners away from the flange can be rounded to avoid sharp
projections. Drill the centre to accept the aerial (antenna) mounting.
Choose a position in the rear fuselage (away from any metal parts) along the
side where the skin is vertical and abrade the surface. Redux the sheet
using the outer flange to the fuselage wall so that the sheet projects
horizontally away from the fuselage skin. The aerial can be mounted upwards
or downwards whichever is more convenient.
Nigel Charles
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wing spar pins |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Andy Draper" <andy@europa-aircraft.com>
Dear All,
I will confess that I have only looked at a few of the postings about the spar
pins, but what I have seen indicates that the main question is about why there
is only one Pip pin type spar pin and why this one should be on the port side.
The reason is due to the layout of the spars.
During static load test, it was discovered that, at high loading, the tip end of
the starboard wing's spar began to slide aft off of the port pin. The further
it moved the greater the bending force it applied to the pin, making it yet
easier for the spar to slide off it. On the first test, the spar came off the
pin (at around the equivalent of about 7.5 'g' I should add) allowing the wing
to rotate and the spar tang to slice its way through the fuselage bottom.
It was clear that we needed to prevent the spar end to slide aft when under load.
Initial thoughts went to bolts and nuts, but this would make rigging and derigging
slow and labourious (we fitted this arrangement to the first XS, so we know
from first hand). The pip pin was tested and proved to work well. The loads
on the pips meant that a hardened steel washer was required to prevent them
damaging the spar bush, hence its inclusion. However, due to the high cost of
the pip pins and as it was only needed to secure the end of the starboard spar
(the spars overlap each other such that the port spar is sandwiched between
the seat back bulkhead and therefore has no possibility of moving) it was decided
to stay with the tried and tested high strength bolt with its welded in Allen
key.
I hope that I have not missed the real thread of the discussion, but perhaps the
above will answer some questions anyway.
Best Regards
Andy Draper
Technical Director
e-mail andy@europa-aircraft.com
>>> "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca> 10/02/04 03:27:33 >>>
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
----- Original Message -----
From: <DuaneFamly@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wing spar pins
| --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
|
| Ferg,
|
| Seems to me by the response that a PIP pin in the starboard side would be
bad
| as long as it inserted and removed easily. Any problem with the strength
of
| the PIP pin? It could also be backed by washers as on the port side.
Wouldn't
| hurt?
|
|
| Mike Duane A207
| Redding, California
| XS Conventional Gear
| CM & rudder pedals with cables installed. Working on tailwheel and baggage
| bay. Trial fit of top and both wings. The wings fit! Conventional gear
soon.
Mike,
Well, I don't know. I kept the bolt version starboard side,
'cause the manual said to. No, I don't think there is any problem with the
pip-pin's strength since it's used portside, but the extra cost of the
'ears' isn't utilised, so why use it. Peter Zutrauen had it right when he
mentioned the need for it portside, but I don't see how it can be needed on
the starboard. My only caution there was the need to pen it in with the
original fixture since the dimensions MIGHT keep the ears in and allow the
starboard pip-pin to vibe out. If you use the retainer specified in the
manual, what is the advantage of the pin-pin? How would you apply the
washers, since no dimension is given (might be same as port) and pin is in
the cup...........?
Just mulling...........
Cheers, Ferg
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Wing spar pins ? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
Following Andy Draper's definitive answer on what sort of spar pins you
need, there was one other strand of the argument I thought worth picking
up - the question of what to do with tight pip pin bolts which are difficult
to get out. Mine are pretty tight, but I am quite keen to keep them that way
as any movement here seems a bad thing, if you don't want your wings
flapping in rough weather! I have found that a small tubular spanner that's
just the right size to fit over the handle of the spar pin makes it easy to
get in and out. David Joyce G-XSDJ
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Hans - Peter Reusser" <hpreusser@tiscalinet.ch>
Many Thanks for all the Datas concerning cruise Power.
Hans-Peter
Do not archive
*****************************************************************
Hans-Peter und Christa Reusser Tel: +41 (33) 654 00 24
Spiezbergstr. 13 Fax: +41 (33) 654 30 21
3700 Spiez E-mail: hpreusser@tiscalinet.ch
*****************************************************************
Message 5
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Hi All,
Being a builder of a classic, I am wondering how this affects me and why I
have not heard of pip pins being used. Am I to redux a hard washer to the
starboard spar tip and buy a pin. Guidance needed for a slow classic
builder.
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Draper
> Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 4:33 AM
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wing spar pins
>
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Andy Draper"
> <andy@europa-aircraft.com>
>
> Dear All,
>
> I will confess that I have only looked at a few of the postings
> about the spar pins, but what I have seen indicates that the main
> question is about why there is only one Pip pin type spar pin and
> why this one should be on the port side. The reason is due to
> the layout of the spars.
>
> During static load test, it was discovered that, at high loading,
> the tip end of the starboard wing's spar began to slide aft off
> of the port pin. The further it moved the greater the bending
> force it applied to the pin, making it yet easier for the spar to
> slide off it. On the first test, the spar came off the pin (at
> around the equivalent of about 7.5 'g' I should add) allowing the
> wing to rotate and the spar tang to slice its way through the
> fuselage bottom. It was clear that we needed to prevent the spar
> end to slide aft when under load.
>
> Initial thoughts went to bolts and nuts, but this would make
> rigging and derigging slow and labourious (we fitted this
> arrangement to the first XS, so we know from first hand). The
> pip pin was tested and proved to work well. The loads on the
> pips meant that a hardened steel washer was required to prevent
> them damaging the spar bush, hence its inclusion. However, due
> to the high cost of the pip pins and as it was only needed to
> secure the end of the starboard spar (the spars overlap each
> other such that the port spar is sandwiched between the seat back
> bulkhead and therefore has no possibility of moving) it was
> decided to stay with the tried and tested high strength bolt with
> its welded in Allen key.
>
> I hope that I have not missed the real thread of the discussion,
> but perhaps the above will answer some questions anyway.
>
> Best Regards
> Andy Draper
>
> Technical Director
> e-mail andy@europa-aircraft.com
>
>
> >>> "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca> 10/02/04 03:27:33 >>>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DuaneFamly@aol.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wing spar pins
>
>
> side would be
> bad
> of
> Wouldn't
> and baggage
> soon.
>
> Mike,
> Well, I don't know. I kept the bolt version starboard side,
> 'cause the manual said to. No, I don't think there is any problem with the
> pip-pin's strength since it's used portside, but the extra cost of the
> 'ears' isn't utilised, so why use it. Peter Zutrauen had it right when he
> mentioned the need for it portside, but I don't see how it can be
> needed on
> the starboard. My only caution there was the need to pen it in with the
> original fixture since the dimensions MIGHT keep the ears in and allow the
> starboard pip-pin to vibe out. If you use the retainer specified in the
> manual, what is the advantage of the pin-pin? How would you apply the
> washers, since no dimension is given (might be same as port) and pin is in
> the cup...........?
> Just mulling...........
> Cheers, Ferg
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Ground plane size for GPS antenna |
--> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
>
> I have an alternative suggestion.
>
> With leftover resin and 'bid' make a 4 layup sheet (150mm square minimum)
> with a 25mm flange included on one side (peel ply the outer edge of the
> flange). Include a sheet of tinfoil between the 3rd and 4th layers and
> leave a central hole in the 4th layer to enable electrical contact.
Before doing all this work, if the GPS receiver has a means to display signal strength
etc., one can temporarily rig a ground plane out of anything metal and
likely see nothing, except for possible minor effects re proximity to the earth
and nearby metal buildings. Ground plane and GPS have to do with a phenomenon
which exists on the ground, not airborne, especially in a nonmetal airplane.
Is it really likely the avionics mfr forgot to mention a ground plane, but
their install manual contains discussion on the more complex topic of reradiation
interference?
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Rear access panels |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Twigg" <alan.twigg@ntlworld.com>
I have fitted Graham Singleton's Rudder / Tailwheel mod, I have fitted cable adjusters
that terminate at the rudder yolk on the tailplane bulkhead.
I would like to put an access panel on the port side in front of the tailplane
bulkhead, instead of the further forward one on the Fuselage top.
Has anyone already done the work for this, PFA wise, thus saving me some hassle.
Cheers Alan Twigg
Motorglider G-GIWT, just about to put the top on.
Message 8
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
Troy Maynor wrote :- Being a builder of a classic, I am wondering how
this affects me and why I
have not heard of pip pins being used.
Troy,
If you have not heard of the pip pin business, I assume you still have
the original 3/8" wing pins.
The pip pin is associated with the AUW increase mod whereby the wing
pins are beefed up to 1/2", a strap is laid up on the Port Spar to
contain the Stbd Spar and a tie bar is installed across the front of the
baggage bay between the rear lift pins. With this mod, the AUW of the
aircraft is increased to 621kg and the VNE is increased to 165 kts.
If you are not familiar with this mod go to the following link where you
can read all about it.
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/Mods%20&%20SB/Mod%2052.
pdf
Regards
Kingsley Hurst
Europa Mono Classic 281
in Oz
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Ground plane size for GPS antenna |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jim Brown <acrojim@cfl.rr.com>
I have been watching this thread on GPS antenna ground plane for several days.
I will share my experience thus far.
I have the Apollo GX 65 GPS which is IFR certified for enroute navigation. In talking
to an electronics installer, he suggested that I simply install the antenna
on a shelf made out of fiberglass behind the baggage compartment and see
what happens. I did just that, and for 500+ hours I have never had a problem with
the signal strength. It has always put me where I needed to be, when I am
on a flight plan.
n3eu@comcast.net wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
>
> >
> > I have an alternative suggestion.
> >
> > With leftover resin and 'bid' make a 4 layup sheet (150mm square minimum)
> > with a 25mm flange included on one side (peel ply the outer edge of the
> > flange). Include a sheet of tinfoil between the 3rd and 4th layers and
> > leave a central hole in the 4th layer to enable electrical contact.
>
> Before doing all this work, if the GPS receiver has a means to display signal
strength etc., one can temporarily rig a ground plane out of anything metal and
likely see nothing, except for possible minor effects re proximity to the earth
and nearby metal buildings. Ground plane and GPS have to do with a phenomenon
which exists on the ground, not airborne, especially in a nonmetal airplane.
Is it really likely the avionics mfr forgot to mention a ground plane, but
their install manual contains discussion on the more complex topic of reradiation
interference?
>
> Regards,
> Fred F.
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing an EFIS |
--> Europa-List message posted by: RK Hallett III <n100rh@sbcglobal.net>
Gerry,
Thanks for a great discussion, I found it most helpful.
Ralph
MotorGlider parts developing a lower state of entropy ;)
Gerry Holland wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
>
>Sue - Bill Hi!
>
>I have the Dynon with Back up Battery and although my Europa is not flying
>yet the Dynon has already been airborne!
>
>
>>DYNON (1770 Euro)
>>
>>Pros;
>>* Brilliant price
>>* Built in backup battery
>>
>>
>
>The price you quote is purchased in US and carried back without
>'declaration'. If you don=B9t go on Holiday and smile sweetly going through
>Customs then add the 17.5% VAT at least. If it's sent then the Bill of
>lading will attract many more charges when clearing Customs from Carrier or
>Import Handler.
>
>The back up Battery is awesome with 2 hours life supplying 10 Instruments.
>It doesn't get much better than that in a Electrical power loss situation.
>
>
>>Cons;
>>* Crude graphics
>>
>>
>
>I politely disagree. It's a small screen and can look a little cluttered but
>it's viewing capability and quality is great even in full Sunlight. The
>Graphics has a range of visual cues that can be set. It does though only
>weigh 1.5 lbs. That has to be an advantage in a Europa and it fits in all
>dimensions.
>
>
>
>>* Inability to display the pressure setting on the main screen- I wrote
>>to Dynon and queried this and got a prompt response confirming that the
>>Altimeter pressure setting is only available on a separate screen
>>accessed by two button pushes - they also state that they have no
>>intention of changing this.
>>
>>
>
>I don=B9t blame them! You are getting any height information against a pre-set
>Q**** figure and that is standard on Dynon. You cant view what you set
>unless you briefly switch screens. Several points here:
>
>Not having it in sight actually makes you switch to that screen and adjust
>setting. It's not unknown on a standard Altimeter to misread hg/mb scale or
>not remember to update pressure Setting.
>
>The PFA will insist you have conventional ASI and ALT so that you can set to
>something in an emergency as reference.
>
>If you are using these primary Instruments in a 'visibility' emergency then
>the barometric setting will probably be set to Regional QNH. In theory the
>PPL minima will allow you to view destination or landing well before you run
>out of visibility. The GPS will also be giving you some crude height and
>obstruction information too. Having an incorrect Q setting will not crash
>the Aircraft but rightly could put you at risk of possible ground or
>obstruction strike. Changing Q setting will only be requested at the
>emergency arrival Airfield but not insisted on if Aircraft capability to
>comply is marginal. In my opinion it's not a concern but quite rightly it's
>your choice.
>
>On a plus side the 'Baro' button if pressed in correct and simple sequence
>defaults to transition setting of 1013 without any adjustment of scale. That
>could be your answer on knowing a consistent height in emergency situation.
>
>
>>I really don't feel comfortable with the idea of having to loose my
>>primary instruments to check or alter the altimeter setting -four button
>>presses and a variety of option screens seems to be a backward step from
>>the functionality of an analogue instrument. It would be simple enough
>>to use a traditional altimeter but it does raise serious doubts in my
>>mind about the whole approach to the design
>>
>>
>
>It is not a IFR Device. and not claimed to be so the situation you are
>guarded about has some ownership by the crew in flying into such a condition
>when only VFR operation is allowed. VFR conditions are as relevant at
>destination as they are at departure.
>You display all screens at once except G Meter unless you set otherwise and
>that=B9s as 'bars=B9 and or units.
>
>
>>* No European presence- some doubt about the commitment to service this
>>side of the Atlantic.
>>
>>
>
>The Hardware and Software Service is second to none. Good Company with
>helpful crew.
>
>
>>Blue Mountain EFIS Lite (3550 Euro)
>>
>>B & A UFD64 (8250 Euro)
>>
>>
>>
>Too big, Too heavy, Too much! for the excess information to hand in a
>strictly VFR Europa Aircraft here in UK. In the US it=B9s a completely
>different matter.
>
>
>
>>Grand Rapids Horizon (4725 Euro)
>>
>>
>>
>Excellent Product and worth full consideration. It can of course combine
>everything. EFIS, GPS and EIS but that's a fair few dollars more.
>
>GRT are a great Company too so support and after service would be great and
>not really affected by being the other side of the 'pond'.
>
>So in summary. The Dynon and GRT Horizon are both very capable and ideally
>suited to a VFR Europa. The savings on weight and space are a prime factor
>in choice and the odd niggle about functionality is fully eclipsed by the
>value and operational benefits.
>
>All IMHO of course!
>
>Hope you are both well and the build continues well. I=B9m delayed for
>internal politics at Home..... The Kids are all but gone and now the House
>has to be refurbished. Call in if you are over this way! You can help
>complete the Kitchen!
>
>Kindest Regards
>
>Gerry
>
>Gerry Holland
>
>Europa 384 G-FIZY
>Trigear with 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
>Fuselage being Painted, Wings ready to paint, Flying surfaces painted
>Airframe Wiring complete, Full Size Panel 50% done .
>Includes Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder. AoA Fitted.
>Activity on Panel completion, Heater Unit.
>
>http://www.g-fizy.com
>+44 7808 402404
>gnholland@onetel.com
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wing spar pins |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
Hi! Troy /all
I have the 1/2" pip pins both sides.
I saw Andy Drapers message , however IMHO I consider that the use of the pip
pin on the starboard side (if it is installed correctly and arranged to just
hold the starboard wing spa at the root to be snug to the Port Side spa tip
an improvement on the welded cap screw arrangement.
Regards
Bob Harrison.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Wing spar pins
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
>
> Hi All,
> Being a builder of a classic, I am wondering how this affects me and why I
> have not heard of pip pins being used. Am I to redux a hard washer to the
> starboard spar tip and buy a pin. Guidance needed for a slow classic
> builder.
> Troy Maynor
> N120EU Monowheel Classic
> Left to finish:
> Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Draper
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 4:33 AM
> > To: europa-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wing spar pins
> >
> >
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Andy Draper"
> > <andy@europa-aircraft.com>
> >
> > Dear All,
> >
> > I will confess that I have only looked at a few of the postings
> > about the spar pins, but what I have seen indicates that the main
> > question is about why there is only one Pip pin type spar pin and
> > why this one should be on the port side. The reason is due to
> > the layout of the spars.
> >
> > During static load test, it was discovered that, at high loading,
> > the tip end of the starboard wing's spar began to slide aft off
> > of the port pin. The further it moved the greater the bending
> > force it applied to the pin, making it yet easier for the spar to
> > slide off it. On the first test, the spar came off the pin (at
> > around the equivalent of about 7.5 'g' I should add) allowing the
> > wing to rotate and the spar tang to slice its way through the
> > fuselage bottom. It was clear that we needed to prevent the spar
> > end to slide aft when under load.
> >
> > Initial thoughts went to bolts and nuts, but this would make
> > rigging and derigging slow and labourious (we fitted this
> > arrangement to the first XS, so we know from first hand). The
> > pip pin was tested and proved to work well. The loads on the
> > pips meant that a hardened steel washer was required to prevent
> > them damaging the spar bush, hence its inclusion. However, due
> > to the high cost of the pip pins and as it was only needed to
> > secure the end of the starboard spar (the spars overlap each
> > other such that the port spar is sandwiched between the seat back
> > bulkhead and therefore has no possibility of moving) it was
> > decided to stay with the tried and tested high strength bolt with
> > its welded in Allen key.
> >
> > I hope that I have not missed the real thread of the discussion,
> > but perhaps the above will answer some questions anyway.
> >
> > Best Regards
> > Andy Draper
> >
> > Technical Director
> > e-mail andy@europa-aircraft.com
> >
> >
> > >>> "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca> 10/02/04 03:27:33 >>>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <DuaneFamly@aol.com>
> > To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wing spar pins
> >
> >
> > | --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
> > |
> > | Ferg,
> > |
> > | Seems to me by the response that a PIP pin in the starboard
> > side would be
> > bad
> > | as long as it inserted and removed easily. Any problem with the
strength
> > of
> > | the PIP pin? It could also be backed by washers as on the port side.
> > Wouldn't
> > | hurt?
> > |
> > |
> > | Mike Duane A207
> > | Redding, California
> > | XS Conventional Gear
> > | CM & rudder pedals with cables installed. Working on tailwheel
> > and baggage
> > | bay. Trial fit of top and both wings. The wings fit! Conventional gear
> > soon.
> >
> > Mike,
> > Well, I don't know. I kept the bolt version starboard side,
> > 'cause the manual said to. No, I don't think there is any problem with
the
> > pip-pin's strength since it's used portside, but the extra cost of the
> > 'ears' isn't utilised, so why use it. Peter Zutrauen had it right when
he
> > mentioned the need for it portside, but I don't see how it can be
> > needed on
> > the starboard. My only caution there was the need to pen it in with the
> > original fixture since the dimensions MIGHT keep the ears in and allow
the
> > starboard pip-pin to vibe out. If you use the retainer specified in the
> > manual, what is the advantage of the pin-pin? How would you apply the
> > washers, since no dimension is given (might be same as port) and pin is
in
> > the cup...........?
> > Just mulling...........
> > Cheers, Ferg
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rear access panels |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
Alan,
Do what ever you need to get an access port in the rear that
allows you to do maint. on the tail wheel operating system. I put in a
6" O.D. , ( 5" opening) in my port side to do that. I also put one the
same size forward of the bulkhead. This allows me to "see" and work on
anything in this area. I also put in a 4" ( 3" opening) up on the port
side near the front of the rudder. This port was placed with the position
that I would need to replace the trim motor sometime in the future. So
place it with that in mind. With these openings I can remove anything or
fix anything necessary in this area. I put on my top and forgot to put
on locking nuts that hold the trim motor in place. By removing the top
opening and putting my arm into the lower port I could use my ratchet to
loosen the nuts and replace them with the correct nuts. Boy am I glad I
had the openings. Put them on the same side so you can see and work
through them. I'm in the USA but maintenance on the rear requires
access. So if you don't have any one who has done this, go through the
governmental pain in rear to get it done. Having been through my first
yearly inspection, I was VERY glad the ports were there. Remember, out
of sight / out of mind. Not a good thing in aviation.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 18:59:37 -0000 "Alan Twigg"
<alan.twigg@ntlworld.com> writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Twigg"
> <alan.twigg@ntlworld.com>
>
> I have fitted Graham Singleton's Rudder / Tailwheel mod, I have
> fitted cable adjusters that terminate at the rudder yolk on the
> tailplane bulkhead.
> I would like to put an access panel on the port side in front of the
> tailplane bulkhead, instead of the further forward one on the
> Fuselage top.
> Has anyone already done the work for this, PFA wise, thus saving me
> some hassle.
>
> Cheers Alan Twigg
> Motorglider G-GIWT, just about to put the top on.
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
> ==================================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing an EFIS |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
I have the Dynon "D10" EFIS install in my plane. I have flown with it. It
is very easy to use and even better to see. Every thing is close together.
The "scan" is so easy. The price is good. The support is good. It is easy to
keep up to date. I love it.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Try Gear legs going on tonight. Thanks Patty for shipping the parts!
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing an EFIS |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Cliff Shaw wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
>
> I have the Dynon "D10" EFIS install in my plane. I have flown with it. It
> is very easy to use and even better to see. Every thing is close together.
> The "scan" is so easy. The price is good. The support is good. It is easy to
> keep up to date. I love it.
Hi Cliff,
What is involved in "keeping it up to date" ?
-Dj
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing an EFIS |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Dynon has posted updates to the code that runs the unit. The D10 has a
serial port (RS232) input port that allows the updates to be loaded from my
laptop. I down loaded the update from Dynon's web page
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/ and then used the supplied utility
program to control it. It worked as advertised. I recommend every one get
one. It do so much and cost so little.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dj Merrill" <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Choosing an EFIS
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
> Cliff Shaw wrote:
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
> >
> > I have the Dynon "D10" EFIS install in my plane. I have flown with it.
It
> > is very easy to use and even better to see. Every thing is close
together.
> > The "scan" is so easy. The price is good. The support is good. It is
easy to
> > keep up to date. I love it.
>
> Hi Cliff,
> What is involved in "keeping it up to date" ?
>
> -Dj
>
>
Message 16
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Kingsley,
Thanks for clearing that up. Yes I still have the 3/8" pins and do not plan
on the MAUW mod at this time unless I am convinced other wise. I am way past
where it would be easy to get it in.
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Wing spar pins
>
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst"
> <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
>
> Troy Maynor wrote :- Being a builder of a classic, I am wondering how
> this affects me and why I
> have not heard of pip pins being used.
>
> Troy,
>
> If you have not heard of the pip pin business, I assume you still have
> the original 3/8" wing pins.
>
> The pip pin is associated with the AUW increase mod whereby the wing
> pins are beefed up to 1/2", a strap is laid up on the Port Spar to
> contain the Stbd Spar and a tie bar is installed across the front of the
> baggage bay between the rear lift pins. With this mod, the AUW of the
> aircraft is increased to 621kg and the VNE is increased to 165 kts.
>
> If you are not familiar with this mod go to the following link where you
> can read all about it.
>
> http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/Mods%20&%20SB/Mod%2052.
> pdf
>
> Regards
> Kingsley Hurst
> Europa Mono Classic 281
> in Oz
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Ground plane size for GPS antenna |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <europabill@bellsouth.net>
For what it's worth on the GPS ground plane issue.......
On all the GPS antenna's I've seen the ground plane is built into the
antenna therefore there is no need for a separate ground plane. If you take
one of them apart you will see the antenna is usually a piece of circuit
board with the antenna and ground plane contained on the circuit board.
Also most of the external antennas are active, meaning they also have a
preamplifier built in for what that's worth....
So the answer is, YOU DON'T NEED ONE.
Gennerally speaking, the only antenna on the plane that you need a ground
plane for is the transponder antenna, assuming you are using the stubb
antenna.
Hope I didn't add to the confusion......
Bill
A010
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Brown" <acrojim@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ground plane size for GPS antenna
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Jim Brown <acrojim@cfl.rr.com>
>
> I have been watching this thread on GPS antenna ground plane for several
days. I will share my experience thus far.
>
> I have the Apollo GX 65 GPS which is IFR certified for enroute navigation.
In talking to an electronics installer, he suggested that I simply install
the antenna on a shelf made out of fiberglass behind the baggage compartment
and see what happens. I did just that, and for 500+ hours I have never had a
problem with the signal strength. It has always put me where I needed to be,
when I am on a flight plan.
>
> n3eu@comcast.net wrote:
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
> >
> > >
> > > I have an alternative suggestion.
> > >
> > > With leftover resin and 'bid' make a 4 layup sheet (150mm square
minimum)
> > > with a 25mm flange included on one side (peel ply the outer edge of
the
> > > flange). Include a sheet of tinfoil between the 3rd and 4th layers and
> > > leave a central hole in the 4th layer to enable electrical contact.
> >
> > Before doing all this work, if the GPS receiver has a means to display
signal strength etc., one can temporarily rig a ground plane out of anything
metal and likely see nothing, except for possible minor effects re proximity
to the earth and nearby metal buildings. Ground plane and GPS have to do
with a phenomenon which exists on the ground, not airborne, especially in a
nonmetal airplane. Is it really likely the avionics mfr forgot to mention a
ground plane, but their install manual contains discussion on the more
complex topic of reradiation interference?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Fred F.
> >
>
>
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