Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:45 AM - Re: Drop of the Hat (RMRRick@aol.com)
2. 02:58 AM - Repainting the mini U2 (Graham Singleton)
3. 08:31 AM - Naca Vents (Simon Smith)
4. 10:00 AM - Re: Naca Vents info now received (Simon Smith)
5. 12:40 PM - Re: Naca Vents info now received (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
6. 12:53 PM - Re: Wing bottom Mass Bal holes not aligned properly (Rowland Carson)
7. 01:00 PM - Orifice ? (Steve Hagar)
8. 01:12 PM - Re: Drop of the Hat (RMRRick@aol.com)
9. 01:38 PM - Re: Drop of the Hat (Ami McFadyean)
10. 02:01 PM - Re: Drop of the Hat (Gerry Holland)
11. 04:51 PM - Re: Repainting the mini U2 (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
12. 06:48 PM - Throttle Position in Classic Module (Tony Renshaw)
13. 06:53 PM - Re: Fuel smell (Tony Renshaw)
14. 06:59 PM - Dimension of throttle please (Tony Renshaw)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Drop of the Hat |
--> Europa-List message posted by: RMRRick@aol.com
Hi,
Henstridge fly in for lunch seems a good idea. Any takers?
Regards all.
Rick
G-RIKS
Message 2
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| Subject: | Repainting the mini U2 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 10/04/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Europa-List message posted by: "Dave Anderson" <dja767@charter.net>
> > As a result of finish coat failure (a HUGE, long story), I am starting to
>experiment with removing my paint and repainting the airplane. I have UV
>smooth prime underneath for the UV protection and after today's trial
>sanding it is clear the paint will come off fine, but I will not be able to
>avoid doing the entire job over again. I can't leave the primer underneath
>and get thte finish coat off.
I'm no expert painter but I do have some experience, repainted my Long EZ
twice! (first time it blistered after 3 years) I have been as disappointed
as any with the performance of the water based paints. Even the car makers
can't get it to work properly all the time.
The best primer I ever found is SP Systems Hibuild epoxy. It is grey or
white and sands almost as easy as Smoothprime. SP make the Ampreg resin we
use in the UK and also are heavily involved in building big racing Cats and
Trimarans. They have plenty of practical experience.
For final top coat I use PPG Deltron base white. I avoid straight urethane,
too hard to repair. Paints designed for cars have good UV performance, as I
understand it, the top coat needs UV protection for itself. Quality car
paint will be OK.
A few observations;
Blistering is probably caused by contamination from human skin, so wear
surgical gloves when handling the airplane and wash with alkaline cleaner
before starting painting, might be worth washing with vinegar too to get
rid of any amine blush. Polyfiber sell one.
Another cause of blistering is condensation in the spray gun. Good water
trapping is essential. At least two traps in series my local expert says.
Pay the local expert to put the final coat on? Every time I come to paint
an airplane I've forgotten half of what I learned!
Graham
Message 3
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Hi,
Can some kind person e-mail me the fitting instructions for the naca vents
please?
thanks
Simon
Message 4
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| Subject: | Naca Vents info now received |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Now received thanks to Ian Rickard.
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Simon Smith
Subject: Europa-List: Naca Vents
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Hi,
Can some kind person e-mail me the fitting instructions for the naca vents
please?
thanks
Simon
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Naca Vents info now received |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Are these items available on the forum or website? Can other people get them
for when they have to do the same job?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Conventional gear assembled and soon to be fitted.
But first.....To Sun-N-Fun!!!!!!!
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wing bottom Mass Bal holes not aligned properly |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
At 2004 04 10 15:01 -0400 EuropaXSA276@aol.com wrote:
>My concern is that the horn close out will not fit properly and impede final
>closing of the wing
Brian - I found that in my starboard wing (only one I've tackled so
far) the indent did not line up with where my outboard aileron horn
actually was. The word from Neville at the factory was to move the
indent laterally by (a) carefully removing the top layer of glass and
the brown foam back to the desired new line, finishing with a taper
matching other sides of the depression; (b) laying in a patch of BID
extending an inch beyond the area of foam removal. See my online
journal of 2003 05 09 at <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/> for
full details.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 660 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
Message 7
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
I have seen some references to the "orifice" in the return fuel line. I have what
looks to be one of these in the bottom of one of the many cardboard boxes
in the garage. Since it is in the box its not in the airplane's fuel system.
I don't recollect seeing references to it in any instructions. Does the 914
need this, I believe the return fuel pressure regulator should take care of
any of the return chores?
Steve Hagar
A143 Mesa, AZ
Steve Hagar
hagargs@earthlink.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Drop of the Hat |
--> Europa-List message posted by: RMRRick@aol.com
Hi
Half a dozen drop hatters attended the Henstridge Fly-In today and very nice
it was. At least until Paddy told me that, at 240 hours on my 912s, I am
getting close to maybe having to spend the best part of =A3800 or =A3900 on a
new
sprag clutch and uprated starter sometime soon!
All the best
Rick
G-RIKS 912s Trike
240 hours & saving.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Drop of the Hat |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Airwolf do them for USD275.
http://www.800-airwolf.com/
Order now and keep as spare? Someone is bound to need it; but hope it isn't
me!
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: <RMRRick@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Drop of the Hat
> --> Europa-List message posted by: RMRRick@aol.com
>
> Hi
> Half a dozen drop hatters attended the Henstridge Fly-In today and very
nice
> it was. At least until Paddy told me that, at 240 hours on my 912s, I am
> getting close to maybe having to spend the best part of =A3800 or =A3900
on a new
> sprag clutch and uprated starter sometime soon!
> All the best
> Rick
> G-RIKS 912s Trike
> 240 hours & saving.
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Drop of the Hat |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Rick Hi again! Nice to see you both at Henstridge
>At least until Paddy told me that, at 240 hours on my 912s, I am
> getting close to maybe having to spend the best part of 800 or 900 on a
> new sprag clutch and uprated starter sometime soon!
This situation was mentioned to make you and others aware that starting a
912S relies on efficient Sprag clutch and starter action and to be beware if
Engine 'fires back' fiercely and repeatedly that this might be the start of
stress on that Sprag clutch. The symptoms start with poor or delayed
starting which at first gives impression of poor cranking power from
Battery. In fact it's the Starter Sprag clutch slipping and not allowing
start to spin to firing speed. That condition only seems to take a few hours
to deteoriate and starts at about 200+ HOURS in some cases.
It may be possible to repair Sprag Clutch and I'm sure Paddy will respond in
his own right on this.
Whilst the Aircraft was unserviceable with this problem it seemed wisest to
replace clutch and probably a Rotax up rated Starter Motor isn't strictly
necessary. Paddy elected to fit the up rated Starter and the starting cycle
is awesome! It really does crank to the fastest start I've seen.
A friend with a Banbi (MCR001) experienced this problem first last year and
was the originator of the exhaustive investigation into the problem on his
912S by official Rotax UK Dealer taking a fair few weeks.
The 8.5:1 Compression of 912 and 914 are a reduced starter 'task' and should
be OK. 10:1 of 912S really exhibits it's compression 'kick' at shutdown or
aborted start cycle.
It will be interesting to see what trend develops as more and more 912S
Europa's gain hours. The Europa is a good 'benchmark' as everyone seems to
be always flying whenever they can! Let's hope Rotax are monitoring the
situation too.
All this is IMHO
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Fuselage being Painted, Wings ready to paint, Flying surfaces painted
Airframe Wiring complete, Full Size Panel 60% done .
Includes Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder. AoA Fitted.
Activity on Panel, Designing Heater Unit, Shoulder Width Mod.
http://www.g-fizy.com
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Repainting the mini U2 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 4/9/2004 11:32:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dja767@charter.net writes:
> Here is the question: Does anybody know if there is another option for
> priming with a UV protection that is not UV smooth prime ( seems everyone uses
> that stuff)? Also, since it has been over a year since I painted and I have a
> gallon left over, does anybody know what the shelf life of that stuff is? I
> have purchased a quart and am going to experiment with different items to paint
> to see if i can get a smooth finish.
Hi Dave,
Check out Autoclor primer and Sikkens 2 part urethane for the topcoat. This
is what we use for sailplane refinish and it is some amazing stuff. It's very
easy to work with, offers excellent UV protection, buffs to a mirror shine and
is very easily repaired should you ever get scratches and scrapes. It is a bit
pricey, though. Contact me off list and I can put you in touch with our
refinish guru if you're interested.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (cockpit painting completed with silver/gray Zolatone. Next task is
wiring after Sun-n-Fun)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Throttle Position in Classic Module |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
I am unrestricted in the positioning of my throttle due to being a
taildragger, but I'd like to know if there is opinion about changing the
throttle position to be somewhat more forward. I know of one mono builder
who used factory dimensions and had to modify the underside of his throttle
quadrant to clear his wheel. I
recoginise the panel is the limitation then, being able to have adaquate
clearance from the panel at full power for knuckles/knobs etc. So, is the
standard way to go the only way???
Reg
Tony R.
Message 13
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Paul,
Can you please tell me if your 914 throttle is the same as the 912s?? To
help clarify, and as I know you have the raised throttle quadrant for the
XS module, did you make up the throttle box? I imagine it is the same 180
mm long, 40 wide, 90 mm up to the centre of the radius of the 25 mm arc for
the curve??
I am trying to locate my throttle, and to also know whether the throttle
box I made up is OK for the 914 if I go down that path. Also, would you
mind telling me how far the slot is aft of the firewall or panel, to the
front or back of the throtttle slot please? Hope all your work is going
well, Europa work that is.
Reg
Tony R.
At 03:27 PM 3/22/2004, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
>Hi all,
>
>I know this is an old topic, but I have a faint smell of auto gas in my
>Europa. I have replaced the elbow with an aluminum one and tightened all
>of the hose clips to no avail.
>
>I be interested in some best practices in debugging this problem.
>
>Paul
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Dimension of throttle please |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
I am attempting to locate the throttle in my classic module to best suit
finger brakes etc. and as such I would like to clarify if the throttle slot
is the same dimensions as the old classic for an XS module. I am wondering
if by raising the throttle, and revisiting the setup, Europa relocated the
position forward or aft. The front of the throttle box is 15" aft of the
firewall for the 912 S setup, and I would also like to know if this
dimension is the same for the 914 should I go down that path, with its gate
in the slot for full boost. If anyone reckons it should be more forward or
aft for comfort etc, I'd like to know. The position of the throttle
determines the postion of my finger brakes, and this is what I am working
on now.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger (possibly convertible)
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
Instrumentation: Undecided
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