Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:51 AM - Re: Wheel Skirts for Tri Gear (ivor.phillips)
2. 01:12 AM - Re: Flap Washout (Stephan Cassel)
3. 04:30 PM - 914 hot starting and paint booths. (Dave Anderson)
4. 05:01 PM - Dimension Please???????? (Tony Renshaw)
5. 05:58 PM - Re:wheel Skirrts for Tri Gear (Alan Stills)
6. 11:42 PM - Loose Tank "do I rebond"??? (Tony Renshaw)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Wheel Skirts for Tri Gear |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips@ntlworld.com>
If you are referring to the wheel pants! they are 36 inches for the main and
29 inches for the nose wheel long and 11. 1/2 inches and 9 inches tall
respectively,
regards
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Stills" <astills785@earthlink.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Wheel Skirts for Tri Gear
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Stills"
<astills785@earthlink.net>
>
> Would someone who has a tri gear please give me the length of the skirt.
I'm having decals made up and haven't got the speed kit yet.
> Al Stills
> A095
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Flap Washout |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Stephan Cassel" <cassel@sensewave.com>
Hi Dave,
I used trigonometry (tan) for both flaps and aileron and the result was
perfect. (I don't think the method in the manual is 100% correct.
especially not after the jig is cut)
This is a safe method:
1. Make sure that your table is dead level (most important straight)
2. Make a wedge of wood that can stand on the under surface (and later
upper surface) the length should be about cord length.
The angle of the wedge makes the level-tool hold zero (or almost)
at the root (or tip).
3. Make shims or use tool (thin metallic-foil) with the following
thickness:
tan x * wedge-length. x is the washout.
4. Put both wedge and level on the flap/root and the reading should be
more or less zero (but the bubble position is more important)
5. Move the wedge and level to the tip and put the shims between the
wedge and the level far out as possible (relative wedge).
If the washout is correct it should read zero or bubble position the
same.
6. If not correct, put shims under the jig.
7. triple check that you have not make an inverted washout.
8. repeat 4-6 until you are happy with your washout and glue the jig
with 5 min epoxy.
Before the layup make a last washout check.
Save this wedge and shim for later use.
Good luck
Stephan Cassel
#556
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "David Simenauer"
> <dsimenauer@cox.net>
>
> I've got my jigs shimmed and my flap cores aligned properly. But I
> have to admit I'm not completely certain how to make sure the washout
> is correct. Any help with this would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Simenauer
> A101
>
>
> _-
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Message 3
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Subject: | 914 hot starting and paint booths. |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Dave Anderson" <dja767@charter.net>
Paint booth:Problem negotiated. The Fire Chief did not agree with the actions of
the inspector. I won't be using it, but won't be cited. Airport will reimburse
plastic lost. Only 3 hours of talking settled the situation.
914 hot starting: I have found that the 914 engine is very hard to start when
Hot. I assumed it has been hot fuel, so I have used the technique of starting
with the fuel pump off (no mechanical one on the 914). What seems to happen is
as soon as I switch on the pump, the engine immediately dies. I can run it for
20 seconds and it still dies. What I am trying now is to run the engine with
the fuel pumps off before shutdown, letting the floats burn down ( sorry fire
department, I didn't mean burn literally - please don't cite me!) then run fuel
pump for a while before starting - circulating cool fuel up as far as the
pressure regulator and possibly into the partially empty floats. Then I start
with the fuel pump off and when I switch it on - that is done at higher RPM -
maybe 3500 or so. So far it seems to have worked.
Wish I knew why switching on the fuel pump has such an immediate effect on the
engine - must be injecting vapor rather than fuel??
Dave
A227
Mini U2
178 hours TT
Working on cowl flap, landing lights and cabin heater....
Message 4
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Subject: | Dimension Please???????? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
I have a classic module and want to know the distance from the most aft
portion of the raised throttle portion of the XS module from the end of
the tunnel, up against the seat back, or from the firewall to the same aft
datum. Thanks in anticipation. This is to determine my finger brake location.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Message 5
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Subject: | re:wheel Skirrts for Tri Gear |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Stills" <astills785@earthlink.net>
Ivor,
Thanks for the dimensions. I have a graphics artist designing Decals for the finished
plane and needed the dimensions to get the decals run. I appreciate the
help. If anyone wants to use decals instead of painting a design on the outside
this person does a great job of designing for you and is quite reasonable.
I already have my design and am having it run now.
Al Stills
A095
Message 6
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Subject: | Loose Tank "do I rebond"??? |
QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0 KILL_LEVEL=5.0 testsX-Barracuda-Spam-Report: Rule breakdown
below
pts rule name description
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
I have had my module fall partially off my sawhorses/trestles and
consequently I no longer have a bond between tank and the layups along the
base of the tank. I can however gain access with spatulas, or injecting
redux and rebonding same. Do people think it an imperative, or doesn't it
really matter? Also, once the module is in, has anyone packed or filled the
void under the tank with expanding foam etc., to more evenly distribute the
load of a full fuel tank and allow the fuse to share some of the weight
transfer rather than the load on the back of the module seat back alone?
Reg
Tony Renshaw
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