Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:45 AM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (Kingsley Hurst)
2. 01:20 AM - Re: Drive pin attachment to trim tab (Jan de Jong)
3. 02:21 AM - Re: flap operating rod clearance (Brian Davies)
4. 02:25 AM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (Ami McFadyean)
5. 02:44 AM - Re: Control Locks (nigel charles)
6. 02:44 AM - Re: Loose Tank "do I rebond"??? QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0 KILL_LEVEL=5.0 testsX-Barracuda-Spam-Report: Rule breakdown below pts rule name description ---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------------- (nigel charles)
7. 02:56 AM - Re: Control Locks (G-IANI)
8. 03:34 AM - Re: Control Locks (Ami McFadyean)
9. 03:48 AM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (Ami McFadyean)
10. 04:34 AM - Flap range (Ami McFadyean)
11. 04:43 AM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (Kingsley Hurst)
12. 05:58 AM - Re: Flap range (ivor.phillips)
13. 07:20 AM - Europa Motor Glider Kit on Ebay (Brad Shafer)
14. 08:11 AM - Re: Flap range (Cliff Shaw)
15. 09:33 AM - Re: Control Locks (Peter Davis)
16. 11:30 AM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (Ronald J. Parigoris)
17. 11:45 AM - Re: Flap range (Ami McFadyean)
18. 11:59 AM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (Ami McFadyean)
19. 03:39 PM - Re: Loose Tank "do I rebond"??? QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0 KILL_LEVEL=5.0 testsX-Barracuda-Spam-Report: Rule breakdown below pts rule name description ---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------------- (JR (Bob) Gowing)
20. 03:51 PM - filling around hinges (Rowland Carson)
21. 03:51 PM - Re: Control Locks (Rowland Carson)
22. 04:53 PM - Re: filling around hinges (Cliff Shaw)
23. 07:39 PM - Stab travel range (Fergus Kyle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
Duncan McFadyean wrote:
> Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style
tailwheel (ie
without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
bearings
come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
Duncan,
I am in the process of doing this right now. The first bearing will tap
out quite easily with a round punch put through the hole in the opposite
side bearing and onto the outer ring of the bearing to be removed. Just
tap gently with a hammer and ensure you run the punch around the bearing
in order to keep it as straight as possible as it is coming out. The
second one is even easier.
The bearings in these wheels are 'wheel barrow' bearings would you
believe ? After seeing how they are made, I wouldn't even put one in a
wheel barrow.
I have purchased two fully sealed quality bearings of the same imperial
size (sorry haven't seen them yet so don't know the number) and I am
having circlip grooves machined inside the wheel in which to install
circlips to limit the inward positioning of the new bearings.
Hope this helps.
Pssst - don't tell Renshaw!!
Regards
Kingsley Hurst
Mono Classic 281 in Oz.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Drive pin attachment to trim tab |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong@xs4all.nl>
I used 15 mm plywood and drilled a 6.0 mm (smaller than 1/4") hole
vertical to the surface with a pillar drill.
I left the template top wider than "25mm TYPICAL".
The pin is a tight fit in the 6.0 mm hole so that fixing the plywood
template in place holds the drive plate immobilized for application of
flox.
Fixing the template in place can all be done on the top surface of the
trim tab using a right angle and double sided tape. There are 3
rotating axes: one is set by the shape of the template, naturally, one
is easily set by marking the top surface of the trim tab at right
angles to the hinge line, the last is set by making sure the template
top stands at right angles to the trim tab top surface (that's why
it 's useful to have the template top be wider than 25mm).
This worked well.
Jan de Jong
#461
now contemplating hoe to best align the 2nd drive pin with the 1st.
Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Andrew Sarangan" <europaxs@myrealbox.com>
>
> The manual calls for the TP16 drive pin to be parallel to the trim tab hinge
line. The way I understand it, the "L"-shaped template is used for positioning
the pin relative to the hinge line, but it does not necessarily make them parallel.
I've heard of people using a level for this, but it's not clear to me how
that is done. Any clues or photos would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: flap operating rod clearance |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
Hi Mike,
I had very similar problems and thought about bending the rod, but decided
that the various bends produced such a complex
movement that I was scared of losing my way on rebending. I found that I
could fit the Horn FL21 inboard of the Horn Plate FL19. This moved the rod
inboard by about 1/4" and improved the clearance.
Note that this was only possible because F21 was at its fullest extension to
give maximum range. I spoke to Neville about this when trying to solve
other flap rigging problems and he could see no technical problem with this
simple change.
Brian Davies kit 454. XS Mono
Just taken the fuselage out of the jig- looking at the various methods to
stop it falling over!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <mp.gamble@virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: flap operating rod clearance
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike" <mp.gamble@virgin.net>
>
> Anyone had problems fitting the flap operating rod? Mine is binding on the
tunnel wall by the small bulkhead and is very close to the main pitch tube
at times. I think all would be ok if I bent the rod so to be a little closer
to the centre line abeam the brake cylinder.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Thanks, that helps greatly.
Can you let me have the ID and total depth of the hub that the bearings sit
in please.
What stops the "wheel-barrow" bearings from migrating in the hub if the
original design?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst"
<hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
>
> Duncan McFadyean wrote:
> > Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style
> tailwheel (ie
> without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
> bearings
> come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
>
> Duncan,
>
> I am in the process of doing this right now. The first bearing will tap
> out quite easily with a round punch put through the hole in the opposite
> side bearing and onto the outer ring of the bearing to be removed. Just
> tap gently with a hammer and ensure you run the punch around the bearing
> in order to keep it as straight as possible as it is coming out. The
> second one is even easier.
>
> The bearings in these wheels are 'wheel barrow' bearings would you
> believe ? After seeing how they are made, I wouldn't even put one in a
> wheel barrow.
>
> I have purchased two fully sealed quality bearings of the same imperial
> size (sorry haven't seen them yet so don't know the number) and I am
> having circlip grooves machined inside the wheel in which to install
> circlips to limit the inward positioning of the new bearings.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Pssst - don't tell Renshaw!!
>
> Regards
> Kingsley Hurst
> Mono Classic 281 in Oz.
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Control Locks |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>Anyone got any bright idea's for control locks (preferably fairly simple
as I am a simple soul) to stop my ailerons, tailplanes and rudder
banging about in the wind whilst the airplane is parked.<
The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft and central. This
is what I do when I tie the aircraft down for a nightstop. Mono or tailwheel
Europas don't have any problem with the rudder as they are interconnected
with the tailwheel preventing the rudder from blowing around in the wind.
Nigel Charles
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Tank "do I rebond"??? QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0 KILL_LEVEL=5.0 |
testsX-Barracuda-Spam-Report: Rule breakdown below pts rule name
description ---- ---------------------- --------------------------------------------------
--> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>I have had my module fall partially off my sawhorses/trestles and
consequently I no longer have a bond between tank and the layups along the
base of the tank. I can however gain access with spatulas, or injecting
redux and rebonding same. Do people think it an imperative, or doesn't it
really matter? Also, once the module is in, has anyone packed or filled the
void under the tank with expanding foam etc., to more evenly distribute the
load of a full fuel tank and allow the fuse to share some of the weight
transfer rather than the load on the back of the module seat back alone?<
The layups are to support the tank only. There is no way that the resin will
adhere permanently to the tank due to the nature of the tank material. Just
make sure that the tank sits high enough to allow the main spars to be
installed. The early build instructions did not make this clear and I had to
redo mine at the time.
Nigel Charles
Message 7
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "G-IANI" <g-iani@ntlworld.com>
Richard
The control column lock Tony Renshaw referred to are pictured on Page 17
Europa Flyer No 26, November 2000.
You will find this on the Club CD if you have one. If not let me know and I
will forward the pictures to you.
They are attributed to Peter Days. Does anyone know any more about them?
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Ready to fly
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RICHARD
IDDON
Subject: Europa-List: Control Locks
--> Europa-List message posted by: "RICHARD IDDON" <riddon@btinternet.com>
Anyone got any bright idea's for control locks (preferably fairly simple
as I am a simple soul) to stop my ailerons, tailplanes and rudder
banging about in the wind whilst the airplane is parked.
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS (looking for any excuse to go flying again)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Control Locks |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
>>> The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft <<
Not ideal if the wind shifts around during the night! i.e. full up elevator.
Also, loading the elevator against the stops may generate a lengthy
forum-thread about the dreaded tailplane pins!
Packing the control stick with cushions to achieve neutral elevator is not
without its limitations and the cushions tend to work loose.
Maybe a small built-for-the-job Dynafoam cushion that velcros-in at the
stick base would do (in conjunction with tying back with the seat harness);
this would cushion 'shock' loading of the controls and would be easily
defeated if the pilot failed to carry out "full and free" checks properly.
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Control Locks
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles"
<nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>
> >Anyone got any bright idea's for control locks (preferably fairly simple
> as I am a simple soul) to stop my ailerons, tailplanes and rudder
> banging about in the wind whilst the airplane is parked.<
>
> The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft and central.
This
> is what I do when I tie the aircraft down for a nightstop. Mono or
tailwheel
> Europas don't have any problem with the rudder as they are interconnected
> with the tailwheel preventing the rudder from blowing around in the wind.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Also (to answer my own question) the RV forum reports similar problems (the
RV uses the same wheel).
See:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=98232060?KEYS=tai
lwheel_bearings?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=14?SERIAL=03360322799?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
and a 'solution' at
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=98261301?KEYS=tai
lwheel_bearings?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=8?SERIAL=03360322799?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
Seems that pumping grease into the grease nipple is a waste of time!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw
<tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
>
> Duncan,
> The bearings Kingsley Hurst knocked out the other night, easily. He worked
> from the opposite side and just tapped them out as I recall him saying.
> Message below pasted for your interest from a fellow at Spruce.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
> From: "Craig Johnson" <craigjohnson@aircraftspruce.com>
> To: <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
> Subject: Re: Product Query
> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2004 10:48:24 -0700
>
> Dear Tony
>
> Yes the 06-00060 is for the 06-03500 and 06-03600 tailwheels.
> These are sealed roller bearings and have no flange.
> they are designed to replace the bushing type bearings are supplied
> with the tailwheels. These do not have a flange either.
> There is no other hardware required to hold them in place.
> The bearing manufacturer is by JAF/KSK located in Japan.
> Regards
> Craig Johnson
> Aircraft Spruce Tech Support
>
>
> At 08:54 AM 4/18/2004, you wrote:
> >--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
> ><ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
> >
> >Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style tailwheel
(ie
> >without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
bearings
> >come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
> >
> >Duncan McF.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Has anyone used the new type of flap linear actuator now being supplied?
It's
"square" in section and is shown on page 3 of:
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/Mods%20&%20SB/Mod%2068.pdf
What stroke does this have (the old version, which was also used on RVs etc)
had a stroke of 6".
Page 1 of the manual referenced above seems to hint that the original flap
tube slots in the side of the fuselage may not be long enough for the new
actuator, implying that this now has a longer stroke and/or provides a
greater amount of flap movement.
If this is so, then it's my cue to legally increase my flap movement to
accord with the current design; the existing 25-ish degrees is not enough!
Duncan McF.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
Duncan,
> Can you let me have the ID and total depth of the hub that the bearings
> sit in please.
Sorry but I dropped the wheel into an engineering shop in another town on
Friday when I was going away for the weekend. I will be away all this week,
19-23 April so won't be seeing the wheel and bearings again until the week
of 26-30 April.
> What stops the "wheel-barrow" bearings from migrating in the hub if the
> original design?
When you remove the first bearing, you will see it has a flange on its outer
edge which stops the bearing migrating inwards. The axle arrangement stops
them from moving outwards.
You will be impressed when you see the ball bearings in these bearings, they
look like lead shot ! !
> Or bond in a short length of tube to keep the outer races spaced apart.
Yes you could do this but I think it would be heavier than two circlips.
This was my original idea but one of my sons suggested the circlips. If a
sleeve is going to be used, It may be more advantageous to put it over the
axle section between the bearings in order to prevent over zealous side
loading of the bearings when the axle bolt and nut is tightened. Haven't
decided on this yet but I suspect it won't be necessary with good bearings
if the wheel-barrow bearings don't need it.
Cheers
Kingsley
Message 12
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips@ntlworld.com>
Hi Duncan
Just ran my Actuator from stop to stop and only can get 99mm, considerably
less than 6 inches,
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Flap range
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
<ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> Has anyone used the new type of flap linear actuator now being supplied?
> It's
> "square" in section and is shown on page 3 of:
>
>
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/Mods%20&%20SB/Mod%2068.pdf
>
> What stroke does this have (the old version, which was also used on RVs
etc)
> had a stroke of 6".
>
> Page 1 of the manual referenced above seems to hint that the original flap
> tube slots in the side of the fuselage may not be long enough for the new
> actuator, implying that this now has a longer stroke and/or provides a
> greater amount of flap movement.
>
> If this is so, then it's my cue to legally increase my flap movement to
> accord with the current design; the existing 25-ish degrees is not enough!
>
> Duncan McF.
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Europa Motor Glider Kit on Ebay |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Brad Shafer" <bshafer@starnetwx.net>
There is a Europa Motor Glider kit for sale on Ebay.
Looking for help on a few questions?
1) Is the motor glider kit really just a regular XS kit with glider wings?
2) Have there been significant changes in the kits since 2001?
Thanks in advance.
Brad
Message 14
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Duncan
Sorry to report to you that the flaps actuator with the square shaft does
not travel more than the Mono flap drive does. I just converted and I think
I have a bit less travel in the down direction.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Back to the test flying.
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
<ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> Has anyone used the new type of flap linear actuator now being supplied?
> It's
> "square" in section and is shown on page 3 of:
>
>
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/Mods%20&%20SB/Mod%2068.pdf
>
> What stroke does this have (the old version, which was also used on RVs
etc)
> had a stroke of 6".
>
> Page 1 of the manual referenced above seems to hint that the original flap
> tube slots in the side of the fuselage may not be long enough for the new
> actuator, implying that this now has a longer stroke and/or provides a
> greater amount of flap movement.
>
> If this is so, then it's my cue to legally increase my flap movement to
> accord with the current design; the existing 25-ish degrees is not enough!
>
> Duncan McF.
>
>
Message 15
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Davis" <pm.davis@ntlworld.com>
Peter Days aka Davis. I have responded to Richard 'off list'.
I was a bit surprised at the time to find I had been renamed.
Regards,
Peter
do not archive
mailto:pm.davis@ntlworld.com
This message has been scanned by Norton Internet Security for all known
viruses.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of G-IANI
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Control Locks
--> Europa-List message posted by: "G-IANI" <g-iani@ntlworld.com>
Richard
The control column lock Tony Renshaw referred to are pictured on Page 17
Europa Flyer No 26, November 2000.
You will find this on the Club CD if you have one. If not let me know and I
will forward the pictures to you.
They are attributed to Peter Days. Does anyone know any more about them?
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Ready to fly
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RICHARD
IDDON
Subject: Europa-List: Control Locks
--> Europa-List message posted by: "RICHARD IDDON" <riddon@btinternet.com>
Anyone got any bright idea's for control locks (preferably fairly simple
as I am a simple soul) to stop my ailerons, tailplanes and rudder
banging about in the wind whilst the airplane is parked.
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS (looking for any excuse to go flying again)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
The supplied tailwheel on A-265 not only had poor quality bearings but it did not
run
true by 1/4 inch and was way out of balance.
I held it in my lathe and spun it and went after it with my 3 inch air disk sander
with 50 grit,and got it to run and balance pretty good.
As far as the bearings, Aircraft Spruce sells long life sealed replacement bearings
with a snap ring around the bearings. I don't see the part number online but it
is in
the catalogue. If someone needs the part number I can check at the hangar.
Wicks may sell the bearings??
Ron Parigoris
A-265
Message 17
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Damn!
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Flap range
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
>
> Duncan
>
> Sorry to report to you that the flaps actuator with the square shaft does
> not travel more than the Mono flap drive does. I just converted and I
think
> I have a bit less travel in the down direction.
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
>
> Back to the test flying.
>
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
> <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
> >
> > Has anyone used the new type of flap linear actuator now being supplied?
> > It's
> > "square" in section and is shown on page 3 of:
> >
> >
>
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/Mods%20&%20SB/Mod%2068.pdf
> >
> > What stroke does this have (the old version, which was also used on RVs
> etc)
> > had a stroke of 6".
> >
> > Page 1 of the manual referenced above seems to hint that the original
flap
> > tube slots in the side of the fuselage may not be long enough for the
new
> > actuator, implying that this now has a longer stroke and/or provides a
> > greater amount of flap movement.
> >
> > If this is so, then it's my cue to legally increase my flap movement to
> > accord with the current design; the existing 25-ish degrees is not
enough!
> >
> > Duncan McF.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Yes please; the Spruce p/n would be useful to have.
Vans sells replacement bearings too. But those are the original
"wheel-barrow" type.
Did Mike Dolphin know something when he named his Europa "The Wheelbarrow".
Kinda all falling in to place and making sense!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
<rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> The supplied tailwheel on A-265 not only had poor quality bearings but it
did not run
> true by 1/4 inch and was way out of balance.
>
> I held it in my lathe and spun it and went after it with my 3 inch air
disk sander
> with 50 grit,and got it to run and balance pretty good.
>
> As far as the bearings, Aircraft Spruce sells long life sealed replacement
bearings
> with a snap ring around the bearings. I don't see the part number online
but it is in
> the catalogue. If someone needs the part number I can check at the hangar.
>
> Wicks may sell the bearings??
>
> Ron Parigoris
> A-265
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Tank "do I rebond"??? QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0 KILL_LEVEL=5.0 |
testsX-Barracuda-Spam-Report: Rule breakdown below pts rule name
description ---- ---------------------- --------------------------------------------------
--> Europa-List message posted by: "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Tony
You filled the tank with fuel to expand it - now it has just shrunk again
until you fill it with juice again.
Do nothing, it will come right again when you start to use it.
J R (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327 in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Loose Tank "do I rebond"??? QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0
KILL_LEVEL=5.0 testsX-Barracuda-Spam-Report: Rule breakdown below pts rule
name
description ---- ---------------------- ------------------------------------
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw
<tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
>
> Gidday,
> I have had my module fall partially off my sawhorses/trestles and
> consequently I no longer have a bond between tank and the layups along the
> base of the tank. I can however gain access with spatulas, or injecting
> redux and rebonding same. Do people think it an imperative, or doesn't it
> really matter? Also, once the module is in, has anyone packed or filled
the
> void under the tank with expanding foam etc., to more evenly distribute
the
> load of a full fuel tank and allow the fuse to share some of the weight
> transfer rather than the load on the back of the module seat back alone?
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | filling around hinges |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
I'm starting to do some filling (so it won't be all left to the end
of the job) and am wondering how others dealt with the hinges already
riveted to some surfaces. It's the rudder I'm starting with - there
may be different questions with the other surfaces!
I have 2 inter-related questions.
If you don't fill thickly enough to raise the surface above the level
of the hinge knuckles, how do you prevent accidental abrasion of the
hinge knuckle while sanding? Obviously if your hinge flange + BID
reinforcements is a bit thick so that the knuckles don't protrude
anyway, this question won't arise - but the next one will apply by
default.
If you do fill thickly enough to raise the surface above the level of
the hinge knuckles, how do you get a neat line along the hinge
knuckle? Is there some clever way of masking it off while filling?
Removing excess filler in this area seems very difficult without
damaging the hinge (even a small scratch on it could be a dangerous
stress-riser).
All thoughts welcomed!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 670 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
Message 21
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
At 2004 04 18 17:32 +0100 Peter Davis wrote:
>Peter Days aka Davis. I have responded to Richard 'off list'.
>
>I was a bit surprised at the time to find I had been renamed
Peter - I think I might have been the source of the pic in EF - in
which case, you can blame my bad writing for the misnomer - sorry!
regards
Rowland
do not archive
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (670 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail <memsec@europaclub.org.uk> website <www.europaclub.org.uk>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: filling around hinges |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Rowland
I discovered a neat little trick. It was after several times cleaning out
filler from hinges that I came up with it.
I had a problem getting the filler out of the hinge wire holes. An hobby
knife cleaned up the 1/2" spaces but the holes were really a problem.
I found that plastic trimmer line for the lawn trimmer just slipped in the
holes before I filled. Then when cleaning up, the knife cut the line off and
I could poke out the little pieces very easily.
You may have gathered that I did fill all the way to the top of the
knuckles.
Hope this helps.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Starting back on the test flights.
> I'm starting to do some filling (so it won't be all left to the end
> of the job) and am wondering how others dealt with the hinges already
> All thoughts welcomed!
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
Message 23
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| Subject: | Stab travel range |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
However, just before fitting on the fuselage top, I took a last-minute
test of stab travel and found that in intervening months the range of travel
had reduced for some reason - and I got but 2.8deg nosedown and 11.6deg
Noseup travel! The trim travel works well, but the stab itself has reduced .
As well, I found the counterweight travel did not allow full noseup
travel, and I had not cut the trim slots long enough to permit full travel.
I lengthened the slots 1/8inch and the slot problem receded.
It was obvious I had failed to centre the TP18A swivelling rear end of
the counterweight arm to allow the arm to descend slightly into a happier
area, so I removed the two AN-3 bolts at the back and swivelled the TP18A
four turns shorter [1/8"]. Too much!
So I calculated the ratios of TP18A turns (32thread) to front end travel
of the counterweight and degrees of stab travel. At 2" +/- between aft bolts
and 30" length of applicable c/w arm I figured one turn [1/32" travel] of
TP18A equalled 1/2" change of countertweight position, and THAT equalled
2deg of stab position.
I'm wondering if anyone else ran into this condition, and whether my
calcs gibe with another's. If all is well, I will increase the travel of the
big pitch push rod to permit a greater range of stab travel [12deg to -4deg
in the book].
Any comments gratefully received.
Cheers, Ferg
A064
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