Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:01 AM - Re: filling around hinges (Roger Sheridan)
2. 01:45 AM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (Nigel Graham)
3. 11:38 AM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (Ami McFadyean)
4. 12:01 PM - long ranger fuel tank (owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com)
5. 01:29 PM - Re: Flap rod (Mike)
6. 01:30 PM - Stab travel range (Graham Singleton)
7. 02:12 PM - colombian europa identity sought (Rowland Carson)
8. 02:21 PM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (Nigel Graham)
9. 04:25 PM - Need some cockpit module help (Rocketman)
10. 05:00 PM - Re: Need some cockpit module help (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
11. 06:01 PM - Re: Need some cockpit module help (Kevin Klinefelter)
12. 07:21 PM - Re: Tailwheel bearings (James Nelson)
13. 07:55 PM - Re: Need some cockpit module help (Rocketman)
14. 09:29 PM - Re: Need some cockpit module help (Cliff Shaw)
15. 10:18 PM - Re: Need some cockpit module help (Rocketman)
16. 10:21 PM - Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure (Alan Stewart)
17. 10:49 PM - Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure (Gerry Holland)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: filling around hinges |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan@btinternet.com>
I slit (tricky) a length of nylon tube & slid that over the hinge, that
prevented filler contamination & sanding damage.
(Now I'm wondering whether it's a good idea to paint the hinge?)
Roger
(still nearly ready to prime)
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
>
> I'm starting to do some filling (so it won't be all left to the end
> of the job) and am wondering how others dealt with the hinges already
> riveted to some surfaces. It's the rudder I'm starting with - there
> may be different questions with the other surfaces!
>
> I have 2 inter-related questions.
>
> If you don't fill thickly enough to raise the surface above the level
> of the hinge knuckles, how do you prevent accidental abrasion of the
> hinge knuckle while sanding? Obviously if your hinge flange + BID
> reinforcements is a bit thick so that the knuckles don't protrude
> anyway, this question won't arise - but the next one will apply by
> default.
>
> If you do fill thickly enough to raise the surface above the level of
> the hinge knuckles, how do you get a neat line along the hinge
> knuckle? Is there some clever way of masking it off while filling?
> Removing excess filler in this area seems very difficult without
> damaging the hinge (even a small scratch on it could be a dangerous
> stress-riser).
>
> All thoughts welcomed!
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham@btclick.com>
Duncan,
When I replaced the original pneumatic 8" tailwheel of my early
"Classic" with the newer solid wheel assembly, I was appalled by the
fact that the replacement had cheap (non aviation quality) bearings and
no spacer between to support the clamping force.
I removed the bearings and spacer from the original - and machined out
the new wheel to accept them. It took about an hour on the "Myford" and
didn't cost a penny. The wheel now runs perfectly true, feels smoother
and can be clamped positively without that horrible "gradual tightening"
feeling.
I believe you too have one of the early classics - so you might want to
dig out the original wheel and rob the bearings and spacer?
Nigel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
<ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style tailwheel
(ie
without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
bearings
come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
Duncan McF.
==
==
==
==
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Hi Nigel,
Problem is I don't have a Myford (or anywhere to put one, otherwise I
would!).
In the first instance I'll see if I can get properly sized bearings to fit.
The original hasn't quit yet, but is not (an never was) very smooth. Don't
want it quitting whilst away.
Sounds like a replacement bearing would be a good item for the Club to hold
in its emergency stocks.
Rgds.,
Duncan.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham@btclick.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Graham"
<nigel_graham@btclick.com>
>
> Duncan,
>
> When I replaced the original pneumatic 8" tailwheel of my early
> "Classic" with the newer solid wheel assembly, I was appalled by the
> fact that the replacement had cheap (non aviation quality) bearings and
> no spacer between to support the clamping force.
>
> I removed the bearings and spacer from the original - and machined out
> the new wheel to accept them. It took about an hour on the "Myford" and
> didn't cost a penny. The wheel now runs perfectly true, feels smoother
> and can be clamped positively without that horrible "gradual tightening"
> feeling.
>
> I believe you too have one of the early classics - so you might want to
> dig out the original wheel and rob the bearings and spacer?
>
> Nigel
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
>
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
> <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style tailwheel
> (ie
> without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
> bearings
> come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
>
> Duncan McF.
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | long ranger fuel tank |
--> Europa-List message posted by:
Hello all,
I would like to make sure the long range tank fits into my plane before purchasing
one from Europa.
Is there any one flying to Le Touquet next Saturday (April 24) with a long range
tank I could borrow for a few minutes ?
R=E9mi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS 914 monowheel
Purchased with 65 hours and many things to fix. Now 240 hours.
Hello all,
I would like to make sure the long range tank fits into my plane before purchasing
one from Europa.
Is there any one flying to Le Touquet next Saturday (April 24) with a long range
tank I could borrow for a few minutes?
R=E9mi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS 914 monowheel
Purchased with 65 hours and many things to fix. Now 240 hours.
Message 5
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike" <mp.gamble@virgin.net>
Cliiff and Brian.
Thanks for your input.
Rotating the flap rod helps considerably with clearance but still leaves me too
close for comfort to the tunnel side when the gear is down.
This would be corrected were I to position the flap horn on the inboard side of
FL19.
I have yet to finalise flap travel and flap rod adjustment and this will change
the geometry of the whole thing so I will leave worrying until I have time to
rig the wings and sort it out.
By the way, this afternoon I noticed that the flap tube was also close to fouling
the top captive nut for the inspection panel on the side of the tunnel. A warning
that this could happen would have been nice to read in the manual.
Regards
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Shaw
To: mp.gamble@virgin.net
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 4:47 AM
Subject: Flap rod
Mike
I have done two Moons and made them work with bending the rod. I thought at first
that would be easier, but found that by twisting the rod it fir OK. It will
come close to conflicting , but it worked for me.
Be sure to leave the end fitting loose so the rod can rotate to its best fir.
Then tighten up the lock nuts.
The problem I had was in the up position. The crosswise bar that goes out each
side to the flaps. It came up and hit the bulkhead. HARD ! Look out for that
problem too.
Good luck.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Back doing the test flight.
Message 6
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|
Subject: | Stab travel range |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 18/04/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Stab travel range
>
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
> I'm wondering if anyone else ran into this condition, and whether my
>calcs gibe with another's. If all is well, I will increase the travel of the
>big pitch push rod to permit a greater range of stab travel [12deg to -4deg
>in the book].
Ferg
go for +13 tp -5 IMHO. This was the range Pete Clarke demanded, (Pete did
all the early test flying, those 12 turn spins !)
You need the 13 to hold the tail down at low speed on the landing run. That
should cope with any variation in ground stance.
Graham
Message 7
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Subject: | colombian europa identity sought |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
Air-Britain News for April 2004 reports a sighting of a Europa
registered UL2010 at Villavicencio sometime in 2003, but no c/n was
recorded. Does anyone know which kit number this is?
According to my records, it could be A002 (Jorge Agudelo), A003
(Jorge Luis Agudelo) or maybe even A238 (William Daniell) if he's a
real fast builder - but the position of this registration in the
issue sequence makes that very unlikely.
As you'll see from the tabulations on the Europa CLub website, the
other 2 Colombian Europas A004 UL-2002 (Ivan Agudelo) and A005
UL-2057 (Jaime Orozco) are accounted for.
Any info gratefully received.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (670 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail <memsec@europaclub.org.uk> website <www.europaclub.org.uk>
Message 8
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|
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham@btclick.com>
Duncan
It will need more than just a replacement bearing. The bearing housings
must be machined with a shoulder to prevent the bearings moving inwards
and thus control the wheel's lateral movement.
I made the shoulder separation about five thou (mill for US) less than
the spacer length to ensure that the wheel bolt clamping force was taken
by the inner race and not through the balls.
And as just mentioned, you will also need a spacer between the inner
races.
You are more than welcome to the unused original bearings - if this will
keep you serviceable in the short term. Drop me your address offline and
I'll send them to you.
I was going to use them as a boat anchor ....but they are not high
enough quality!
Nigel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
<ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Hi Nigel,
Problem is I don't have a Myford (or anywhere to put one, otherwise I
would!).
In the first instance I'll see if I can get properly sized bearings to
fit.
The original hasn't quit yet, but is not (an never was) very smooth.
Don't
want it quitting whilst away.
Sounds like a replacement bearing would be a good item for the Club to
hold
in its emergency stocks.
Rgds.,
Duncan.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham@btclick.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Graham"
<nigel_graham@btclick.com>
>
> Duncan,
>
> When I replaced the original pneumatic 8" tailwheel of my early
> "Classic" with the newer solid wheel assembly, I was appalled by the
> fact that the replacement had cheap (non aviation quality) bearings
and
> no spacer between to support the clamping force.
>
> I removed the bearings and spacer from the original - and machined out
> the new wheel to accept them. It took about an hour on the "Myford"
and
> didn't cost a penny. The wheel now runs perfectly true, feels smoother
> and can be clamped positively without that horrible "gradual
tightening"
> feeling.
>
> I believe you too have one of the early classics - so you might want
to
> dig out the original wheel and rob the bearings and spacer?
>
> Nigel
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
>
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ami McFadyean"
> <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style
tailwheel
> (ie
> without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
> bearings
> come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
>
> Duncan McF.
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Need some cockpit module help |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net>
Gentlemen, (and ladies)
I can't seem to find any lines on the rear bulkhead of the cockpit
module. I'm needing assistance in determining where to cut it off.
Pics in the manual seem to show it cut at the same height as the top of
the pitch rod tunnel. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
--
Jeff - A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 4/19/2004 7:27:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
topglock@cox.net writes:
> I can't seem to find any lines on the rear bulkhead of the cockpit
> module. I'm needing assistance in determining where to cut it off.
> Pics in the manual seem to show it cut at the same height as the top of
> the pitch rod tunnel. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> Neville told me to cut the rear of the CM even with the top of the tunnel.
> Actually, I trimmed mine slightly higher (3/16") than the tunnel so that the
> baggage bay creates a lip slightly higher than the tunnel top to hold panels
> in place that I made that cover my main gear area. When the panels are in
> place I have a continuous floor from the back of the seat to the rear bulkhead.
If you cut your CM any higher you're just reducing your baggage bay area.
Later on, when you bond > in the baggage bay, you'll use your pitch push rod as
a
> guide to get the angle of the baggage bay and the proper clearance for the
> pitch push rod. By taping a piece of 3/4" stock (plywood, 1x4, etc) to the
> pushrod and resting the baggage bay on it, you'll establish the proper clearance
> for the pitch push rod and the appropriate angle for mounting the baggage
> bay at the same time. You'll also have to trin the forward vertical flange of
> the baggage bay to fit around the tunnel.
I've seen some that left it up 2" or more above the tunnel, but I can't see
any reason to do so.
>
> Hope it helps!
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Dunlap, TN
> A-245
Message 11
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Subject: | Need some cockpit module help |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
In newsletter 30 they say to trim level with the tunnel. I trimmed 1/4"
higher and put a couple layers of bid to finish the joint that is otherwise
well bonded with redux. The higher you trim the module above the tunnel the
more you reduce the baggage volume.
Kevin, A211 mono 914, priming flaps and ailerons with smoothprime.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rocketman
Subject: Europa-List: Need some cockpit module help
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net>
Gentlemen, (and ladies)
I can't seem to find any lines on the rear bulkhead of the cockpit
module. I'm needing assistance in determining where to cut it off.
Pics in the manual seem to show it cut at the same height as the top of
the pitch rod tunnel. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
--
Jeff - A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
Ron,
I sell bearings as I run a bearing shop. The bearing you want is
a "499502H" by part number, I replaced mine a year ago and it makes a
big difference. They sell for about $5 each across the counter.
If my brain is not slow, it also might be called a 99502H. One has the
snap ring and one does not. They are China by mfg. but they seem to be OK
as I sell a bunch of them to lawn guys to replace the "wheel barrow
bearing". Those I sell at $2 each so you can see the difference. The
good 499502H are what is referred to as ground bearings and the " wbb"
are referred to as un ground style.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
On Sun, 18 Apr 2004 14:28:01 -0400 "Ronald J. Parigoris"
<rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us> writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> The supplied tailwheel on A-265 not only had poor quality bearings
> but it did not run
> true by 1/4 inch and was way out of balance.
>
> I held it in my lathe and spun it and went after it with my 3 inch
> air disk sander
> with 50 grit,and got it to run and balance pretty good.
>
> As far as the bearings, Aircraft Spruce sells long life sealed
> replacement bearings
> with a snap ring around the bearings. I don't see the part number
> online but it is in
> the catalogue. If someone needs the part number I can check at the
> hangar.
>
> Wicks may sell the bearings??
>
> Ron Parigoris
> A-265
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net>
Kevin Klinefelter wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
>
>In newsletter 30 they say to trim level with the tunnel. I trimmed 1/4"
>higher and put a couple layers of bid to finish the joint that is otherwise
>well bonded with redux. The higher you trim the module above the tunnel the
>more you reduce the baggage volume.
>
>Kevin, A211 mono 914, priming flaps and ailerons with smoothprime.
>
>
>
Thanks for the quick reply, everyone and to John for the very helpful
picture of his module, off list. I'll clip it just about tunnel level,
maybe a fraction above.
While I have you folks on the phone, I'm building my mono as a tri-gear
and I don't have the manual, or parts, for the tri-gear, yet (due next
month). What, if anything, should be changed before installing the CP
module? What about the mud flap that goes in the mono wheel bay? Is it
included in the tri-gear version? I don't have the brake M/C's yet,
either. Would it be better to wait until everything else arrives,
before bonding in the module? And finally, does the flap control system
work the same, in the tri-gear? I know that it is actuated,
electrically, but is the mechanism connecting the parts, the same in
both models?
Sorry to be so full of questions, but I'm really loving this build and
look forward to flying A055, ASAP... :)
Again, thanks in advance for any help...
--
Jeff A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Jeff
All good questions !
The mud guard bulkhead is not needed. (no mud)
The flaps are actuated with a linear actuator mounded under the baggage bay
on the skin of the fuselage. You will need to get to that part of the
installation before you can worry about its position. There will be no slot
for a flap/landing gear lever in the tunnel. (finely) I built finger brakes
instead of the extra foot pedals. John in Lakeland can get the master
cylinders for you.
Hope that helps.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
What about the mud flap that goes in the mono wheel bay?
I don't have the brake M/C's yet, either.
And finally, does the flap control system
> work the same, in the tri-gear? but is the mechanism connecting the
parts, the same in
> both models?
> --
> Jeff A055
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net>
Cliff Shaw wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
>
>Jeff
>
>All good questions !
>
>The mud guard bulkhead is not needed. (no mud)
>
>The flaps are actuated with a linear actuator mounded under the baggage bay
>on the skin of the fuselage. You will need to get to that part of the
>installation before you can worry about its position. There will be no slot
>for a flap/landing gear lever in the tunnel. (finely) I built finger brakes
>instead of the extra foot pedals. John in Lakeland can get the master
>cylinders for you.
>
>Hope that helps.
>
>Cliff Shaw
>1041 Euclid ave.
>Edmonds, WA 98020
>425 776 5555
>
Thanks, Cliff. So the flaps mechanism is installed after the CP module
is in place? Guess I should have read a bit further... <G>
I'll be contacting John, soon, so will look into the finger brake issue,
then.
--
Jeff A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
Message 16
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|
Subject: | Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Stewart" <alan.stewart@blueyonder.co.uk>
My Europa Classic has now done over 600hrs on its 912UL engine.
I've become a little concerned of late with the lower oil pressure
reading reported on my Flydat.
From historic readings in the 3-4 bar arena, I now achieve just 2.4 -
2.8 bar at cruise RPM.
Formerly, I've used Silkolene Pro 4, fully synthetic oil, but have
recently changed to the semi-synthetic recommended by Skydrive, on
account of my occasional Avgas usage.
I've recently installed the pressure release valve mod (a small 'shim'
disc) and this has raised pressure from 1.5 bar at lowest RPM on landing
(rare), into the same 2 bar + range. It hasn't affected the higher RPM
pressures.
Do other "high hour" 912 users have similar figures, or are they higher
?
Any suggestions as to the reason for the pressure drop ?
Alan
Alan. D. Stewart
-----------------------------------
14 Goddard Way phone : +44 1245
264186
Chelmer Village mobile : +44
7801 287886
Chelmsford, Essex CM2 6UR email :
alan.stewart@blueyonder.co.uk
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Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Alan Hi!
> My Europa Classic has now done over 600hrs on its 912UL engine.
> I've become a little concerned of late with the lower oil pressure
> reading reported on my Flydat.
> From historic readings in the 3-4 bar arena, I now achieve just 2.4 -
> 2.8 bar at cruise RPM.
Although I've not got by Europa aloft yet I'm lucky to fly with a couple of
local Europa's Pilots who got on and finished!
One has had to change his Oil Pressure Sender twice now on a 912S. The most
recent time was at about 260 hours and in this case it was over reading.
Changing the Sender fixed the problem. Might also be worth checking Sensor
wiring.
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Fuselage being Painted, Wings ready to paint, Flying surfaces painted
Airframe Wiring complete, Full Size Panel 60% done .
Includes Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder. AoA Fitted.
Activity on Panel, Heater Unit, Shoulder Width Mod.
http://www.g-fizy.com
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
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