Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:12 AM - Re: Classic stainless exhaust fault (nigel charles)
2. 05:03 AM - Rotax Oil Tank Mounting Bracket (John Cliff)
3. 06:32 AM - EIS versus Steam Gauges (John & Paddy Wigney)
4. 07:49 AM - How Much Paint? (Jeff Roberts)
5. 10:03 AM - Fitting Doors (Al Stills)
6. 10:47 AM - Re: BID supplier (Fergus Kyle)
7. 01:32 PM - Re: EIS versus Steam Gauges (Carl Pattinson)
8. 01:34 PM - Re: Fitting Doors (James H Nelson)
9. 02:19 PM - Re: Fitting Doors (Al Stills)
10. 03:32 PM - Re: EIS versus Steam Gauges (KARL HEINDL)
11. 04:04 PM - Re: How Much Paint? (Kevin Klinefelter)
12. 04:04 PM - Re: EIS versus Steam Gauges (Kevin Klinefelter)
13. 04:14 PM - Re: BID supplier (Cliff Shaw)
14. 04:29 PM - Re: How Much Paint? (Fred Fillinger)
15. 04:37 PM - Alternatives to Araldite/Redux 420 (Rocketman)
16. 04:44 PM - Ripples in the wing surface (Paul McAllister)
17. 05:17 PM - Re: Fitting Doors (Jeff Roberts)
18. 05:40 PM - Re: How Much Paint? (Jeff Roberts)
19. 06:20 PM - Re: Ripples in the wing surface (tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au)
20. 07:41 PM - Re: Fitting Doors (James Nelson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Classic stainless exhaust fault |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>It appears that the classic is not the only Silencer" that has this
problem.
Chris is working with me and the exact same thing has happened to my 912S
"silencer". The aft Port connector socket was not welded properly and has
broken loose.<
My fault is not due to welding but the jig being incorrect putting stress on
the part. The weld was the part that finally gave way after a helical crack
in the pipe which was not visible with the exhaust fitted.
>I used a currency converter service I found on the web, and you are
correct.
190 GBP = $349.64 USD . Ouch !!!<
No it wasn't that expensive. The forum seems to convert our 'pound sign'
incorrectly. The cost will be 58 pounds which I think is good value.
Regards
Nigel Charles
Message 2
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| Subject: | Rotax Oil Tank Mounting Bracket |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "John Cliff" <mx@crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk>
The Engine Manual supplied with my engine kit (912S) is Issue 1 and describes
fabrication of the oil tank mounting bracket from the steel sheet.
A later Engine Manual (Issue 2, from the Club website) adds to the bracket an
additional angled bracket to bridge the cutaway in the firewall under part of
the mountinmg bracket itself.
Unfortunately, although the later issue refers the reader to the 'drawing at the
end of this chapter' for templates, the drawing is missing from the downloaded
copy.
Can anyone tell me the dimensions called out in the drawing and the material
type and thickness supplied in later engine kits for this additional angled
bracket ?
John Cliff
#0259
Message 3
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| Subject: | EIS versus Steam Gauges |
--> Europa-List message posted by: John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney@worldnet.att.net>
<<<<< Time: 11:37:36 AM PST US
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Europa-List: EIS
Anyone ot there flying with just an EIS with no Engine Steam Gauges and find it
acceptable? thx. Ron Parigoris >>>>
Hi Ron,
I have an EIS plus an analogue tacho and analogue manifold pressure. I have found
that the EIS is one of the best instruments in my panel - it is rock-solid
reliable. I would have no hesitation in removing the analogue tacho since I find
that I do not look at it because the EIS is so accurate and refreshes very
rapidly. (I would like to replace the tacho with a Digitrak which I lust for.)
I have all the engine variables set with alarms.
If you have a constant speed prop, I recommend you have an analogue manifold pressure
gauge - it permits rapid and accurate power changes. If you use the EIS
to follow MP, you may have to change to a different page which is a bit clunky.
One final comment :- The fuel flow/totaliser option on the EIS is a good investment.
It is very accurate and provides great peace of mind on a long trip by giving
the calculated endurance. I just keep a healthy margin between that number
and my GPS ETE (estmated time enroute), there is no mental arithmetic. Finally,
I set my low fuel alarm at 4 gallons.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S, Whirlwind C/S prop
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
To all that have painted,
It's time to consider ordering paint. I have a friend that works for Sherwin
Williams's marketing department. He is recommending there premium automotive
product called Genesis. He said it's being used on the sub frames and lower
body panels of racecars because how it holds up from chipping and that it
has better flexibility. Anyway my question to anyone thats painted one of
these birds is how much did you use in gallons? I would assume at least 2
coats but very open to opinions. Also has anyone had experienc with this
product?
Thanks in advance to all,
Jeff A258
Priming flying surfaces and sanding with PPG K38. Nice stuff!
Message 5
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Al Stills" <astills@senecawholesale.com>
After fitting my doors and installing the shoot bolts
the door bows up approx 1-2mm in the center of the frame
when I pull it closed and shut the latch. Is this normal
or have I installed wrong. There is no room to move up
in frame as it's setting perfectly in it.
Al Stills
A095
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: BID supplier |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Paul,
I just emailed them (thanks for the URL) and got the reply that the
BiD supplied for Europas came from Germany, in 100m rolls only and that they
would not stock it..................?
Ferg
A064
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stewart" <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: BID supplier
| --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
|
| Dennis
|
| I have just asked the same question of Skycraft in Lincs. The supply
| 92915 which is the BID cloth Europa use. Thei email address is
| SKYCRAFTLTD@aol.com tel 0870 7592723 or 01406 371779.
|
|
| Regards
|
| Paul
|
| G-GIDY
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: EIS versus Steam Gauges |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl Pattinson" <carl_p@ntlworld.com>
If you fit an EIS just make sure you have a means to isolate it from the
main bus during startup. We have found that if the EIS is not switched off
on startup (starter cranking) the spikes often scramble the memory and
alarms which take about 20 mins to reset again. The worst thing is the reset
ususlly causes the screen contrast to go to zero and then everything becomes
impossible to ajust until the screen contrast can be increased (ie: the
display appears to go blank).
I would suggest that a momentary disconnect button is fitted close to the
starter switch so that temporary isolation can be effected, though a more
sophisticated setup could include an isolator solenoid connected to the
starter solenoid.
An manually operated isolator switch (which is what we have) is not a very
satisfactory solution as its very easy to leave it on during startup and
also easy to forget to turn it back on after startup.
Our EIS is currently playing up in that the oil pressure and temp readings
are jumping about by a couple of degrees/ PSI. We suspect this is possibly a
prelude to the oil pressure sensor failing which I believe is a common
problem with Rotax 912 engines (unless someone else has a better
explanation).
It would be nice to have the luxury of both analogue and digital readings
but not very practical.
Otherwise the EIS is very good and we would recommend it.Ours is the Grand
Rapids version.
Carl & Dot
G-LABS
----- Original Message -----
From: "John & Paddy Wigney" <johnwigney@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Europa-List: EIS versus Steam Gauges
> --> Europa-List message posted by: John & Paddy Wigney
<johnwigney@worldnet.att.net>
>
> <<<<< Time: 11:37:36 AM PST US
> From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> Subject: Europa-List: EIS
> Anyone ot there flying with just an EIS with no Engine Steam Gauges and
find it
> acceptable? thx. Ron Parigoris >>>>
>
> Hi Ron,
>
> I have an EIS plus an analogue tacho and analogue manifold pressure. I
have found that the EIS is one of the best instruments in my panel - it is
rock-solid reliable. I would have no hesitation in removing the analogue
tacho since I find that I do not look at it because the EIS is so accurate
and refreshes very rapidly. (I would like to replace the tacho with a
Digitrak which I lust for.) I have all the engine variables set with alarms.
>
> If you have a constant speed prop, I recommend you have an analogue
manifold pressure gauge - it permits rapid and accurate power changes. If
you use the EIS to follow MP, you may have to change to a different page
which is a bit clunky.
>
> One final comment :- The fuel flow/totaliser option on the EIS is a good
investment. It is very accurate and provides great peace of mind on a long
trip by giving the calculated endurance. I just keep a healthy margin
between that number and my GPS ETE (estmated time enroute), there is no
mental arithmetic. Finally, I set my low fuel alarm at 4 gallons.
>
> Cheers, John
>
> N262WF, mono XS, 912S, Whirlwind C/S prop
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting Doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James H Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
Hi Al,
You did not say if you have the rubber gasket in place. My doors
were very good in position until I put the rubber gasket in place. Then
the center of the door "bowed" a bit. You can only get this to stop by
making the door very rigid or installing a third locking point on the
door. This "bow" will be the exit for air in the cockpit sucking your
shirt sleeve outside. There are several ways to hold the door in place
(in the center). Some complicated others simple. The factory just
reduxed a short pin in the door and put a small plate with a hole on the
door sill. Put a bevel toward the inside of the pin and worked very
good. Also cheep! BTW, the male pin should be made very rigid so it
doesn't bend or shake loose. Maybe 1/8" dia or so. I think I would weld
a pin through a small thin plate and have the weld positioned on the
inside of the bracket. That way you could only see a neat pin through a
small steel plate. (with several holes for the redux to hole on to).
Jim Nelson
N15JN
Message 9
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Al Stills" <astills@senecawholesale.com>
JIM,
I have not installed the gasket yet and don't plan to
for a while yet. I'm trying to understand the fix for
this............as I understand it a 1/8" pin to fit
into a hole in the sill. The "bow" I have is in the
natural bow of the door halfway to the top. I can't
quite see where a pin will hold it down as the pressure
is out away from the frame. Maybe I'm not seeing it
right.
Al Stills
A095
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: EIS versus Steam Gauges |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl@msn.com>
Carl,
I have no idea what your problem might be. My EIS is wired to the main bus and
that seems to work fine. In fact, it is important to me to be able to check the
oil pressure when I crank the engine, especially after an oil change.
New users should also note that there is no extra charge for 3 extra wires, which
allow you to have parallel switches for the push buttons. I use the left/right
buttons on the MAC grip to scroll through the menus.
Karl
From: "Carl Pattinson" carl_p@ntlworld.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EIS versus Steam Gauges
-- Europa-List message posted by: "Carl Pattinson" carl_p@ntlworld.com
If you fit an EIS just make sure you have a means to isolate it from the
main bus during startup. We have found that if the EIS is not switched off
on startup (starter cranking) the spikes often scramble the memory and
alarms which take about 20 mins to reset again. The worst thing is the reset
ususlly causes the screen contrast to go to zero and then everything becomes
impossible to ajust until the screen contrast can be increased (ie: the
display appears to go blank).
I would suggest that a momentary disconnect button is fitted close to the
starter switch so that temporary isolation can be effected, though a more
sophisticated setup could include an isolator solenoid connected to the
starter solenoid.
An manually operated isolator switch (which is what we have) is not a very
satisfactory solution as its very easy to leave it on during startup and
also easy to forget to turn it back on after startup.
Our EIS is currently playing up in that the oil pressure and temp readings
are jumping about by a couple of degrees/ PSI. We suspect this is possibly a
prelude to the oil pressure sensor failing which I believe is a common
problem with Rotax 912 engines (unless someone else has a better
explanation).
It would be nice to have the luxury of both analogue and digital readings
but not very practical.
Otherwise the EIS is very good and we would recommend it.Ours is the Grand
Rapids version.
Carl Dot
G-LABS
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Paddy Wigney" johnwigney@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Europa-List: EIS versus Steam Gauges
-- Europa-List message posted by: John Paddy Wigney
johnwigney@worldnet.att.net
Time: 11:37:36 AM PST US
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us
Subject: Europa-List: EIS
Anyone ot there flying with just an EIS with no Engine Steam Gauges and
find it
acceptable?thx. Ron Parigoris
Hi Ron,
I have an EIS plus an analogue tacho and analogue manifold pressure. I
have found that the EIS is one of the best instruments in my panel - it is
rock-solid reliable. I would have no hesitation in removing the analogue
tacho since I find that I do not look at it because the EIS is so accurate
and refreshes very rapidly. (I would like to replace the tacho with a
Digitrak which I lust for.) I have all the engine variables set with alarms.
If you have a constant speed prop, I recommend you have an analogue
manifold pressure gauge - it permits rapid and accurate power changes. If
you use the EIS to follow MP, you may have to change to a different page
which is a bit clunky.
One final comment :- The fuel flow/totaliser option on the EIS is a good
investment. It is very accurate and provides great peace of mind on a long
trip by giving the calculated endurance. I just keep a healthy margin
between that number and my GPS ETE (estmated time enroute), there is no
mental arithmetic. Finally, I set my low fuel alarm at 4 gallons.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S, Whirlwind C/S prop
Message 11
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|
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
Yes, how much paint y'all? Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Roberts
Subject: Europa-List: How Much Paint?
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
To all that have painted,
It's time to consider ordering paint. I have a friend that works for Sherwin
Williams's marketing department. He is recommending there premium automotive
product called Genesis. He said it's being used on the sub frames and lower
body panels of racecars because how it holds up from chipping and that it
has better flexibility. Anyway my question to anyone thats painted one of
these birds is how much did you use in gallons? I would assume at least 2
coats but very open to opinions. Also has anyone had experienc with this
product?
Thanks in advance to all,
Jeff A258
Priming flying surfaces and sanding with PPG K38. Nice stuff!
Message 12
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| Subject: | EIS versus Steam Gauges |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
Karl, is that "three extra wires" the way you ordered the unit from Grand
Rapids?
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of KARL HEINDL
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EIS versus Steam Gauges
--> Europa-List message posted by: "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl@msn.com>
Carl,
I have no idea what your problem might be. My EIS is wired to the main bus
and that seems to work fine. In fact, it is important to me to be able to
check the oil pressure when I crank the engine, especially after an oil
change.
New users should also note that there is no extra charge for 3 extra wires,
which allow you to have parallel switches for the push buttons. I use the
left/right buttons on the MAC grip to scroll through the menus.
Karl
From: "Carl Pattinson" carl_p@ntlworld.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EIS versus Steam Gauges
-- Europa-List message posted by: "Carl Pattinson" carl_p@ntlworld.com
If you fit an EIS just make sure you have a means to isolate it from the
main bus during startup. We have found that if the EIS is not switched off
on startup (starter cranking) the spikes often scramble the memory and
alarms which take about 20 mins to reset again. The worst thing is the reset
ususlly causes the screen contrast to go to zero and then everything becomes
impossible to ajust until the screen contrast can be increased (ie: the
display appears to go blank).
I would suggest that a momentary disconnect button is fitted close to the
starter switch so that temporary isolation can be effected, though a more
sophisticated setup could include an isolator solenoid connected to the
starter solenoid.
An manually operated isolator switch (which is what we have) is not a very
satisfactory solution as its very easy to leave it on during startup and
also easy to forget to turn it back on after startup.
Our EIS is currently playing up in that the oil pressure and temp readings
are jumping about by a couple of degrees/ PSI. We suspect this is possibly a
prelude to the oil pressure sensor failing which I believe is a common
problem with Rotax 912 engines (unless someone else has a better
explanation).
It would be nice to have the luxury of both analogue and digital readings
but not very practical.
Otherwise the EIS is very good and we would recommend it.Ours is the Grand
Rapids version.
Carl Dot
G-LABS
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Paddy Wigney" johnwigney@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Europa-List: EIS versus Steam Gauges
-- Europa-List message posted by: John Paddy Wigney
johnwigney@worldnet.att.net
Time: 11:37:36 AM PST US
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us
Subject: Europa-List: EIS
Anyone ot there flying with just an EIS with no Engine Steam Gauges and
find it
acceptable?thx. Ron Parigoris
Hi Ron,
I have an EIS plus an analogue tacho and analogue manifold pressure. I
have found that the EIS is one of the best instruments in my panel - it is
rock-solid reliable. I would have no hesitation in removing the analogue
tacho since I find that I do not look at it because the EIS is so accurate
and refreshes very rapidly. (I would like to replace the tacho with a
Digitrak which I lust for.) I have all the engine variables set with alarms.
If you have a constant speed prop, I recommend you have an analogue
manifold pressure gauge - it permits rapid and accurate power changes. If
you use the EIS to follow MP, you may have to change to a different page
which is a bit clunky.
One final comment :- The fuel flow/totaliser option on the EIS is a good
investment. It is very accurate and provides great peace of mind on a long
trip by giving the calculated endurance. I just keep a healthy margin
between that number and my GPS ETE (estmated time enroute), there is no
mental arithmetic. Finally, I set my low fuel alarm at 4 gallons.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S, Whirlwind C/S prop
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: BID supplier |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Ferg
Go to Aircraft Spruce catalog page 30. The "Rutan Fiberglass Cloth" is a
good substitute for what Europa was sending us. I have used it and it works
very well.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: BID supplier
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
> Paul,
> I just emailed them (thanks for the URL) and got the reply that
the
> BiD supplied for Europas came from Germany, in 100m rolls only and that
they
> would not stock it..................?
> Ferg
> A064
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Stewart" <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: BID supplier
>
>
<europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: How Much Paint? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
Jeff Roberts wrote:
>
> To all that have painted,
> It's time to consider ordering paint. I have a friend that works for
Sherwin
> Williams's marketing department. He is recommending there premium
automotive
> product called Genesis. He said it's being used on the sub frames
and lower
> body panels of racecars because how it holds up from chipping and
that it
> has better flexibility.
Well, I know a manager at Glidden who says their auto finishes vs. SW
or DuPont.... :-) Anyway, planes usually aren't subject to chipping
debris like cars, so I'm going to try stuff from paintforcars.com.
It's so cheap ($35 for acrylic enamel) that gallons don't really
matter, and auto coating prices have gotten out of sight. Google
search for internet comments seems to conclude that many buyers tried
it on a lark, and hey it's pretty good. I bought a gallon each of
white, metallic, clear, and a can of the urethane additive which
hardens and enhances gloss and makes more solvent resistant (will use
in clear only). The metallic looks like it holds the reflective stuff
in suspension nice, a potential problem for amateur shooters. I won't
clear the underside of wings in preference to trying to shoot the
white real good.
If it don't last real long, or gets too chipped or assaulted by
insidious liquids, I figure order more off eBay, wet-sand to primer
and reshoot. Not that big a plane and the wings come off, should
anyone have ever shot a bigger plane whose wings don't. Just input so
far, not recommendation.
Reg,
Fred F.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Alternatives to Araldite/Redux 420 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net>
Some of you may remember that I've been looking for an alternative to
Redux and started talking to the techs at Aeropoxy about it. After
pouring over the many tech sheets, that they provided and talking with
their guru, Scot, I ordered a couple of quart kits ($39.00 each) of
ES6228. I did several tests, which I admit are not really scientific in
nature, but convinced me that this product provides as strong a bond as
Redux. It is a 1 to 1 ratio and, when mixed up, is a medium grey, heavy
syrup. It works well with or without flox and requires less flox to
make it stay put. It is also used by Velocity, in their construction.
I feel secure enough in the product, that I bonded my starboard wing
skin in place, today, using it, with a small amount of flox. Anyone
considering this adhesive should contact the manufacturer, directly, as
ACS and Wicks do not carry it...
--
Jeff - A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Ripples in the wing surface |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi All,
I have noticed some ripples in my XS wings on the underneath of one wing. It is
near the flap between the outrigger and the middle flap hinge. There are 7
of them in parallel, quite wavy and about 6~8 inches long. They are not quite
parallel to the spar and appear to have not relationship with rib positions.
I am quite certain that the aircraft has not been subjected to any excessive
G forces.
Has anyone seen anything like this. ?
Paul
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting Doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
on 8/17/04 4:17 PM, Al Stills at astills@senecawholesale.com wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Al Stills" <astills@senecawholesale.com>
>
> JIM,
> I have not installed the gasket yet and don't plan to
> for a while yet. I'm trying to understand the fix for
> this............as I understand it a 1/8" pin to fit
> into a hole in the sill. The "bow" I have is in the
> natural bow of the door halfway to the top. I can't
> quite see where a pin will hold it down as the pressure
> is out away from the frame. Maybe I'm not seeing it
> right.
Al,
You will have to continue working with the top hinge supports of the door.
As I recalled I had the same bow in the front edge of the door that stuck
out. I had to shim with washers at first under the door hinge supports and
the plane. Once I had the door fitting right I made shims the size of the
washer stack. It's a weird angle but if you continue messing with the space
there the fit will come. Once I found the fit I had to sand the top door
hinge supports down a bit to meet the fuselage. I think your answer is at
those supports.
Hope this helps,
Jeff
A258
Sanding off primer.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: How Much Paint? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff Roberts <jeff@rmmm.net>
on 8/17/04 6:34 PM, Fred Fillinger at n3eu@comcast.net wrote:
Still looking for anyone that's painted the Europa before to give me an
estiment on how much used. I have the primer Im just looking for the amount
of paint.
Thanks
Jeff
A258
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Ripples in the wing surface |
--> Europa-List message posted by: tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au
Paul,
You didn't get any localised hotspots when you got zapped did you, or could you?
Seems like a question of the composite experts at SP Systems or someone similar
Reg
Tony Renshaw
> Paul McAllister <paul.mcallister@qia.net> wrote:
>
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi All,
I have noticed some ripples in my XS wings on the underneath of one wing. It is
near the flap between the outrigger and the middle flap hinge. There are 7 of
them in parallel, quite wavy and about 6~8 inches long. They are not quite
parallel to the spar and appear to have not relationship with rib positions. I
am
quite certain that the aircraft has not been subjected to any excessive G forces.
Has anyone seen anything like this. ?
Paul
_-
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Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: James Nelson <europajim@juno.com>
Hi Al,
The problem is usually the door is assembled and lined up with
the shoot bolts set with proper engagement. The door should be
relatively true to the fuselage. I had to apply filler to the fuselage
to blend the door into the fuselage. This is however not enough as when
the gasket is applied the door is pushed out at the bottom as it is the
only place where there is minimal support for the long span from shoot
bolt to the rear shoot bolt. This is where you will need to add
additional filler to "blend" the door into the fuselage. Put the gaskets
completely around the door (I assume you have the windows in place) and
close the door. I have always had to push the door inward to get the
shoot bolts to engage. With the door closed, note the amount of "pushed
outward" the door is in the middle of the span. This is where I added
additional filler to blend the door to the fuselage. BTW, you should
take the end of the shoot bolt and taper it so when you engage the shoot
bolt it will help you get the door closed. The shoot bolt is now cone
shaped. By filing (grinding) that center point to be at the inside of the
bolt, as you look at it from the end, it will assist in locking the door
closed. Does that make any sense?. If you look at the rear shoot bolt
on the starboard side (looking forward) the center of that bolt will be
at the 9 o'clock position. That would be the most inward side of the bolt
/ closest toward the fuselage. With the bolts set up this way, it will
help closing the door.
Jim Nelson
On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 14:17:59 -0700 "Al Stills"
<astills@senecawholesale.com> writes:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Al Stills"
> <astills@senecawholesale.com>
>
> JIM,
> I have not installed the gasket yet and don't plan to
> for a while yet. I'm trying to understand the fix for
> this............as I understand it a 1/8" pin to fit
> into a hole in the sill. The "bow" I have is in the
> natural bow of the door halfway to the top. I can't
> quite see where a pin will hold it down as the pressure
> is out away from the frame. Maybe I'm not seeing it
> right.
> Al Stills
> A095
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
> ================
>
>
>
>
>
>
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