Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:50 AM - Re: Rudder Horn Misalignment (Brian Davies)
2. 01:43 AM - Fuel gauge and sender (Steven Pitt)
3. 02:50 AM - Re: Firewall Forward-less (Raimo Toivio)
4. 04:23 AM - colin arkle bad e-mail address (Rowland Carson)
5. 05:09 AM - Re: Rudder Horn Misalignment (Paul McAllister)
6. 05:22 AM - Europas for sale (Richard Holder)
7. 01:26 PM - Re: Europa Test Flights (Tony Bale)
8. 03:29 PM - Re: Europa-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 09/27/04 (Graham Singleton)
9. 03:29 PM - Coolant loss (Graham Singleton)
10. 03:32 PM - Re: Spraylat (Rob Huntington)
11. 05:23 PM - Re: Spraylat ()
12. 08:41 PM - Epibond 420 shelf life? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Horn Misalignment |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
John,
Mine is the same. It appears to be a compromise because the tail wheel
cables are out of line in the opposite direction. If you altered yours I
think you would have a bigger problem with the tail wheel.
Brian Davies
Kit 454, painting in progress.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TELEDYNMCS@aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Rudder Horn Misalignment
> --> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>
> Greetings all,
>
> I've started the task of installing my sternpost and I've noticed what I
> believe is a gross error in the alignment of the rudder horn.
>
> I cut the base of the rudder exactly as it is shown in Chapter 2, exactly
90
> degrees to the hinge pin line, and installed the nut plate and rudder horn
> exactly as the instructions show. The upper and lower fuselage moldings at
the
> trailing edge are cut exactly on the cut line shown. Holding the rudder up
to
> the sternpost and sighting the alignment of the rudder horn shows it is a
good
> 25 degrees out of line with the starboard rudder cable as it exits the
fuselage
> side and similarly out of line with the fuselage seam (level line). This
> cannot possibly be right. Attaching the rudder cable to the horn in the
fashion
> shown using a bolt would put a side load on the cable thimble anytime the
rudder
> moves and almost certainly would cause the cable to fail with repeated
use. I
> followed the manual sequentially, so when the nutplate and rudder horn
were
> mounted I wasn't far enough along with the fuselage to verify the angle.
If I
> had waited until I was ready to install the sternpost to check the angle
I'm
> pretty sure I would have caught this because the angle is so off.
>
> I can fix the problem, but it's going to take sawing off the nutplate,
> adjusting the angle of the bottom of the rudder to match the cable line,
and then
> re-installing the nutplate. I figure this is at least 10 hours additional
work
> minimum.
>
> Has anybody else run into this? Am I missing an update somewhere that
shows a
> different procedure? I can't see this working at all as is.
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Dunlap, TN
> A-245 (Scratching my head once again)
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuel gauge and sender |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2@ntlworld.com>
Fellow Europa builders
I purchased the Skysports fuel gauge and probe and am now installing it. However
I find that the cables are rather large, which is puzzling me as the system
only calls for a 1amp fuse/cb, and Tony Bingelis's book suggests that 1amp only
requires 22g cables.
Am I right or confusing myself?
Steve Pitt #403
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Forward-less |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
,> If you would like your name to appear on this list, send me your name,
> kit #, LG type, status of build, and address. I'll post the list on Oct. 1.
>
> Fred
> A194
Hi!
1) Raimo Toivio
2) #417
3) Mono
4) installing flap drive mechanism
5) 37500 Lempaala, Finland
Regards,
Raimo M W Toivio
OH-XRT #417
OH-CVK
OH-BLL
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio@rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | colin arkle bad e-mail address |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
I had request for Europa Club members-only access to the website from
Colin Arkle. My reply confirming that his request is being processed
has bounced from the address he quoted.
If you're out there, Colin, please contact me at
<memsec@europaclub.org.uk> so I can check your e-mail address. Thanks!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (710 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail <memsec@europaclub.org.uk> website <www.europaclub.org.uk>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Horn Misalignment |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
John,
Have you looked at Graham Singleton's tailwheel mod. It does a nice job of
tucking the rudder cables inside the fuselage. I have one and it works
well.
Paul
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Europas for sale |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Holder <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
I may be a little late on this as I arrived back from 2 weeks in the USA
this morning.
I received the details from the Europa Administrators.
I haven't read it too carefully (too much else to read) but I think it said
that the two Europa demonstrators were sold for 25,000 GBP each.
Can this be true ? G-KITZ as a factory built aircraft with a Garmin 530 no
less MUST have been worth at least 45,000 GBP.
I think I read on here a few weeks ago that someone here had bought it. Good
deal for you sir !!!! :-)
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : rholder@avnet.co.uk
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Europa Test Flights |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony Bale" <tony.bale@virgin.net>
Carl,
Thanks for the informative response, it gives us a better
understanding of what is next (assuming we fix the wing problem soon). We
have built the aircraft at Rayne near Braintree, Essex (10 miles East of
Stansted). We are thinking about using a test pilot called
John (?) Brownlow. Efforts are underway to secure his services, I guess we
will be ready in about 7 -10 days to send off the paperwork for the permit
release.
We have 336, Monowheel XS 912S, and although a warpdrive set to 20.75 deg is
currently installed, we also have an Airmaster which we will fit once the
snaggs are ironed out and we are comfortable flying the old girl. Think its
going to be a bit different to the Arrow I have a share in at Southend !!
Regards
Tony.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 09/27/04 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 27/09/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Rudder Horn Misalignment
>
>--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>
>I've started the task of installing my sternpost and I've noticed what I
>believe is a gross error in the alignment of the rudder horn.
>
>I can fix the problem, but it's going to take sawing off the nutplate,
>adjusting the angle of the bottom of the rudder to match the cable line,
>and then
>
>re-installing the nutplate.
>John Lawton
John
the best fix is to put the pushrod back to drive the rudder, (as on the
Classic) It looks much neater, doesn't overload the rudder flange and hinge
(the standard XS fit does) and is the right way to do these things! (imho)
Graham
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 27/09/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>At 260 hours have added coolant at 50 hour intervals when under the hood
>changing oil...amount 4 oz or so to the overflow tank. The tank on top of
>the engine is always full.
>Ken Carpenter
This is how it's designed to work. Always check the swirl pot as well as
the overflow tank because if there is a leak, even slight, the engine may
not suck coolant back in when it cools down. If the swirl pot is not full,
there is probably a leak.
Graham
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rob Huntington <robertodue2002@yahoo.com>
Hello all,
We have found (unfortunately) that the best way to remove old Spraylat is to use
a 50%/50% mixture of acetone and mineral spirits to help soften the coating.
Care must be taken to not have too high of concentration of acetone otherwise
it can create a haze on the window. It is best to try on a scrap piece of window
material to test the compatability. Again, prevention is the best course,
a minimum of 4 coats applied, with each additional coat applied just as the previous
coat has dried enough to brush/spray without deforming the previous coat.
Removal and replacement should be done annually at the very longest, and preferrably
every 6 months.
Regards,
Rob Huntington
Phoenix Composites
4863 E. Falcon Dr.
Mesa, AZ 85215
ph (480) 924-9750
email robertodue2002@yahoo.com
---------------------------------
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
I just removed Spraylat that had been on about 9 months by using warm
water and a citrus cleaner, then scraping with a plastic scraper. It
came off easily and left no marks.
Tom Friedland
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
Huntington
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Spraylat
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rob Huntington
<robertodue2002@yahoo.com>
Hello all,
We have found (unfortunately) that the best way to remove old Spraylat
is to use a 50%/50% mixture of acetone and mineral spirits to help
soften the coating. Care must be taken to not have too high of
concentration of acetone otherwise it can create a haze on the window.
It is best to try on a scrap piece of window material to test the
compatability. Again, prevention is the best course, a minimum of 4
coats applied, with each additional coat applied just as the previous
coat has dried enough to brush/spray without deforming the previous
coat. Removal and replacement should be done annually at the very
longest, and preferrably every 6 months.
Regards,
Rob Huntington
Phoenix Composites
4863 E. Falcon Dr.
Mesa, AZ 85215
ph (480) 924-9750
email robertodue2002@yahoo.com
---------------------------------
==
==
==
==
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Epibond 420 shelf life? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Needing more Redux, placed an order for Epibond 420.
The salesperson informed me the shelf life was 6 months from manufacturers ship
date when i asked. Said they only have very fresh stuff.
The redux i had the stamped date was more than a few years?
Is Epibond Shelf life a lot less than Redux? I thought it was the same stuff?
Thx
Ron Parigoris
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|