Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:50 AM - Insurance (Sean O'Reilly)
2. 04:56 AM - Re: Insurance (Pete Lawless)
3. 06:09 AM - Re: Insurance (David Joyce)
4. 09:14 AM - Wiring conduits (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
5. 09:24 AM - Europa Glider Pilots (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
6. 09:33 AM - Re: with Dynon (Cliff Shaw)
7. 09:59 AM - Re: with Dynon (JEFF ROBERTS)
8. 10:37 AM - Re: Wiring conduits (Rocketman)
9. 12:00 PM - Re: Wiring conduits (Gerry Holland)
10. 12:06 PM - Re: Re: prop sizes for monowheels (Duncan McFadyean)
11. 12:18 PM - Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th (Paddy Clarke)
12. 12:23 PM - Re: with Dynon (Duncan McFadyean)
13. 02:29 PM - Re: Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th (Pete Lawless)
14. 03:08 PM - E-mail contact for E(2004)? (rlborger)
15. 03:13 PM - Electrical question for 914 folks (rlborger)
16. 05:14 PM - Re: E-mail contact for E(2004)? (Dean Seitz)
17. 05:16 PM - Re: long range fuel tank (Paul McAllister)
18. 05:51 PM - Re: E-mail contact for E(2004)? (Vaughn Teegarden)
19. 07:28 PM - Dynon (John & Paddy Wigney)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly@hotmail.com>
Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations re Europa friendly insurers
based on recent experience?
Thanks
Sean O'Reilly
Reigate, Surrey
07818 011023
Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
Message 2
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info>
Sean I have used Jennings and am currently with Traffords. Traffords
were a tiny bit cheaper this year and continued to provide air side car
insurance which Jennings had dropped.
Mine is a Classic.
Regards
Pete
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean
O'Reilly
Subject: Europa-List: Insurance
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Sean O'Reilly"
--> <seanmoreilly@hotmail.com>
Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations re Europa friendly
insurers
based on recent experience?
Thanks
Sean O'Reilly
Reigate, Surrey
07818 011023
Express yourself with cool new emoticons
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
---
---
Message 3
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
Sean, I have tried Traffords & Jennings but this year found Hall & Clarke
www.hallandclarke.co.uk gave the best deal. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly@hotmail.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Insurance
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Sean O'Reilly"
<seanmoreilly@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations re Europa friendly
insurers
> based on recent experience?
>
> Thanks
>
> Sean O'Reilly
> Reigate, Surrey
> 07818 011023
>
> Express yourself with cool new emoticons
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Doctors.net.uk e-mail protects you from viruses and unsolicited messages
> _______________________________________________________________________
>
>
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 10/4/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
> Andrew,
> ...don't know the details of your 'ready made' module, but I
> would suggest planning the routing for wires (conduits) before gluing in.
> There are a number of routes for wiring which may be arduous after the
> insertion and now would be the time..... I had the advantage of assembling
> old-style and have imbedded drink straw routes through some of the cockpit
> where not structural, and included double length pullthrough fishing line
> for any future inclusion.
> Like several others, I opted for alu fuel lines where they are
> difficult to replace, hoping thereby to avoid scraped knuckles in 5
> years...........
> Cheers and good luck,
> Ferg
> A064
Greetings all,
I thought I'd chime in here since I just finished my conduits. What I did was
make a mold using PVC pipe, actually about quarter round of a 2" PVC pipe. I
cut the PVC lenthwise in half with a band saw, then in half again and
flattened out the edges using a belt sander. Then a cut for the proper length for
the
conduit was made, plus a couple of inches. Then I taped the 4 PVC quarter
rounds to a piece of particle board and covered it in packing tape, leaving enough
space between them to allow for flanges of about 3/4" on each side of the
PVC, thereby completing the mold. 2 layers of 'bid sandwich a layer of "E" glass
tape were applied to each mold extending out about 3/4" past the side edges of
the PVC to provide flanges for later installation with flox and a few inches
longer than needed. 4 of these were made. Two to go from the rear bulkhead to
the door sill and two to go from the forward edge of the door sills to the
instrument panel. Installing them over the rebate between the upper and lower
fuselage halves results in the inside diameter of these conduits being slightly
larger than a BNC connector, so should I ever have to replace coax it can be
done. On the right side the rear conduit intersects the fuel filler cover front
and back, but isn't tied into the fuel filler cover. Slots were shaped into
the cover to accept the molded conduits.
Next, and since reinforcement is needed under the door sills to keep the
paint from cracking due to putting your weight on the sill during entering and
exiting the aircraft, I roughly fabricated foam molds, triangular in shape, on
the bandsaw, long enough to run the length of the door, plus a couple of inches
fore and aft. Then the foam was hot glued in place under the door sills. I
then clamped the previously made conduits in place and the foam was sanded to a
nice shape so that it flows neatly from conduit to door sill conduit to
conduit. This foam was also sanded to shape so that it ties smoothly into the
irrigation pipe conduit I made in the windscreen frame to feed switch wires and
XM
antenna feed to my overhead panel. I then taped over the molded conduits and the
foam with packing tape and covered the door sill area with 3 layers of 'bid,
including about a 1" overlap onto the previously molded conduits for and aft.
Once the door sills kicked, I removed all the molded parts, cleaned up the
edges on the band saw, scuffed the bonding flanges and re-installed all of the
conduits with flox. Sanding and floating in the edges with a small amount of
bondo after the flox kicked and painting the cockpit with Zolatone resulted in
conduits which look like they are molded as part of the fuselage side. The door
sills are really stiff too. I'm very pleased with the results. It kills two
birds with one rock and the result is certainly worth the 10 or so hours it took
to make them.
I'd be happy to send pictures off list to anyone interested in seeing this
method. It really makes the cockpit look nice.
I didn't leave a pull string, but what you can do is use a shop vac on one
end of the conduit to suck a length of string through should the need arise to
add wires. I learned this trick from an electrician friend and it works great!
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Working on the tailpost and rudder between glider tows)
Message 5
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Subject: | Europa Glider Pilots |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 10/4/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
> I started flying Hang Gliders here in the Owens Valley in 1982. John, did
> you ever fly our here?
>
> Then started flying sailplanes in 1990 and soon added an instructor
> certificate.
>
> And then started flying rented spam cans, the most expensive and least fun.
> Sure look forward to flying the Europa soon and someday adding long wings to
> my 914/ airmaster XS.
>
> Kevin, A-211
Hi Kevin,
I've never flown in the Owens, but I have flown Telluride several times,
Gunnison at Widow's Creek, Paradox Valley, west of Telluride, Torrey Pines, King
Mountain in Idaho, and of course all over here in the Southeast. I live a half
mile from the Tennessee Tree Toppers Henson's Gap site. www.treetoppers.org
I think my brother has flown in the Owens though. I know he competed at
Chelan on year.
I run a glider tow club out of our airstrip here in the Sequatchie Valley of
southeast Tennessee now. Folks call the Sequatchie the "Owens Valley of the
East" I haven't flown hang gliders much for the past couple of years since we
bought the airport. I've been concentrating on flying sailplanes mostly, about
130 hours so far this year. I also tow a lot too. Last weekend I did about 30
tows in our Pawnee. No rest for the weary......
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (working on sternpost and rudder inbetween glider tows)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 6
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Mike
My cockpit got very hot while we were flying from Oshkosh to Arizonans. I
have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I think
this will fix my problem.
I don't know if this is a design problem. The heat behind my panel was
probably a lot higher than the cockpit. I have not ask Dynon what temp they
have set up to be the trigger point for the "flag" .
One thing about the new Dynon D10A is that it outputs it's altitude to the
transponder in a new way. My transponder is and older design from
Bendix/King and will not accept this serial output mode. I will not be
upgrading to The new D10A.
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/
I just called them. The temp that the D10 goes "black and white" is 50 C .
That is hot. The tumble problem is not a roll rate issue. It seems to be
related to vibration in just a few airplanes. The EMI problem has a filter
available for $10 that goes on the D25 plug. (if EMI bothers your airplane)
What else and I find out for you? (I love this thing)
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Weather in today, I am afraid ! Bummer
Message 7
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--> Europa-List message posted by: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
Cliff and all,
Thanks for your responses. I will be ordering the Dynon. It seams as
though vibration is the enemy so a softer mount for the front panel
plate would be smart. In any case thank for all the responses.
Kindest Regards,
Jeff
A258
Priming, Sanding, Wiring, for a long time.
On Oct 5, 2004, at 11:32 AM, Cliff Shaw wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
>
> Mike
>
> My cockpit got very hot while we were flying from Oshkosh to
> Arizonans. I
> have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I
> think
> this will fix my problem.
>
> I don't know if this is a design problem. The heat behind my panel was
> probably a lot higher than the cockpit. I have not ask Dynon what temp
> they
> have set up to be the trigger point for the "flag" .
>
> One thing about the new Dynon D10A is that it outputs it's altitude to
> the
> transponder in a new way. My transponder is and older design from
> Bendix/King and will not accept this serial output mode. I will not be
> upgrading to The new D10A.
>
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/
>
> I just called them. The temp that the D10 goes "black and white" is
> 50 C .
> That is hot. The tumble problem is not a roll rate issue. It seems to
> be
> related to vibration in just a few airplanes. The EMI problem has a
> filter
> available for $10 that goes on the D25 plug. (if EMI bothers your
> airplane)
> What else and I find out for you? (I love this thing)
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> Weather in today, I am afraid ! Bummer
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Wiring conduits |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net>
TELEDYNMCS@aol.com wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/4/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>europa-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
>
>
>
>>Andrew,
>> ...don't know the details of your 'ready made' module, but I
>>would suggest planning the routing for wires (conduits) before gluing in.
>>There are a number of routes for wiring which may be arduous after the
>>insertion and now would be the time..... I had the advantage of assembling
>>old-style and have imbedded drink straw routes through some of the cockpit
>>where not structural, and included double length pullthrough fishing line
>>for any future inclusion.
>> Like several others, I opted for alu fuel lines where they are
>>difficult to replace, hoping thereby to avoid scraped knuckles in 5
>>years...........
>>Cheers and good luck,
>>Ferg
>>A064
>>
>>
>
>Greetings all,
>
>I thought I'd chime in here since I just finished my conduits. What I did was
>make a mold using PVC pipe, actually about quarter round of a 2" PVC pipe. I
>cut the PVC lenthwise in half with a band saw, then in half again and
>flattened out the edges using a belt sander. Then a cut for the proper length
for the
>conduit was made, plus a couple of inches. Then I taped the 4 PVC quarter
>rounds to a piece of particle board and covered it in packing tape, leaving enough
>space between them to allow for flanges of about 3/4" on each side of the
>PVC, thereby completing the mold. 2 layers of 'bid sandwich a layer of "E" glass
>tape were applied to each mold extending out about 3/4" past the side edges of
>the PVC to provide flanges for later installation with flox and a few inches
>longer than needed. 4 of these were made. Two to go from the rear bulkhead to
>the door sill and two to go from the forward edge of the door sills to the
>instrument panel. Installing them over the rebate between the upper and lower
>fuselage halves results in the inside diameter of these conduits being slightly
>larger than a BNC connector, so should I ever have to replace coax it can be
>done. On the right side the rear conduit intersects the fuel filler cover front
>and back, but isn't tied into the fuel filler cover. Slots were shaped into
>the cover to accept the molded conduits.
>
>Next, and since reinforcement is needed under the door sills to keep the
>paint from cracking due to putting your weight on the sill during entering and
>exiting the aircraft, I roughly fabricated foam molds, triangular in shape, on
>the bandsaw, long enough to run the length of the door, plus a couple of inches
>fore and aft. Then the foam was hot glued in place under the door sills. I
>then clamped the previously made conduits in place and the foam was sanded to
a
>nice shape so that it flows neatly from conduit to door sill conduit to
>conduit. This foam was also sanded to shape so that it ties smoothly into the
>irrigation pipe conduit I made in the windscreen frame to feed switch wires and
XM
>antenna feed to my overhead panel. I then taped over the molded conduits and the
>foam with packing tape and covered the door sill area with 3 layers of 'bid,
>including about a 1" overlap onto the previously molded conduits for and aft.
>Once the door sills kicked, I removed all the molded parts, cleaned up the
>edges on the band saw, scuffed the bonding flanges and re-installed all of the
>conduits with flox. Sanding and floating in the edges with a small amount of
>bondo after the flox kicked and painting the cockpit with Zolatone resulted in
>conduits which look like they are molded as part of the fuselage side. The door
>sills are really stiff too. I'm very pleased with the results. It kills two
>birds with one rock and the result is certainly worth the 10 or so hours it took
>to make them.
>
>I'd be happy to send pictures off list to anyone interested in seeing this
>method. It really makes the cockpit look nice.
>
>I didn't leave a pull string, but what you can do is use a shop vac on one
>end of the conduit to suck a length of string through should the need arise to
>add wires. I learned this trick from an electrician friend and it works great!
>
>Regards,
>
>John Lawton
>Dunlap, TN
>A-245 (Working on the tailpost and rudder between glider tows)
>
>
>
I built my own conduits, using 1 x 2 wooden firing strips, covered with
plastic tape. I laid them on my table, on a piece of sheet plastic and
then laid up two plys of BID wide enough to leave a 1/2" flange. Once
cured, I simply cut out the flanges, where they went under the door.
Very light and plenty of room. Wire can be pulled using a standard fish
tape...
--
Jeff - A055
Finished filling and sanding the wings. Door screens are next...
Builders Log http://www.n55xs.com
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Wiring conduits |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Another useful preformed conduit is the twin walled plastic piping used in
water or heating applications. It comes in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" diameters and
about 6' - 10' long. It's also has a range of angle bends that fit
externally if required. It is very pliable and more importantly lightweight.
I used 1/2" on both sides. Fixed it tight up under horizontal Door frame on
both sides, applied a little flox a then 2 layers of bid.
The same practice was used around front screen surround to give a conduit to
overhead panel wiring.
The strength it added serves well on door frames and also a sort of rollover
strength to front screen frame.
Regards
Gerry
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: RE: prop sizes for monowheels |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Case of ".. being hung for a sheep as a lamb..."
Duncan McF
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: RE: prop sizes for monowheels
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles"
<nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
>
> <<I use a 64inch prop with my Classic on the basis that if you get
> within 1inch of prop strike it is very likely that the aircraft will
> continue pitching until the prop touches the ground anyway.
> >>
>
> >I'm sure there's some logic here, but I need it explained to me!<
>
> The point is that if you pitch far enough over during a ground loop (the
> most common reason for prop strike) once you have gone far enough to
> strike a 64 inch prop on a Classic the pitch angle and inertia is such
> that it would have almost certainly continued the extra inch required to
> strike a 62 inch prop. The only time I see the smaller diameter saving
> the day is a strike over rough ground where the strike is not due to
> loss of control. However this is not a very likely scenario. I measured
> the prop ground clearances (a/c empty) to be 11 inches and 12 inches
> respectively.
>
> Although the above is just a theory and I have been lucky enough not to
> have a prop strike so far, talking to those that have the impression is
> that once the groundloop has started the pitch/roll manoeuvre continues
> until the prop strikes.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paddy Clarke <paddyclarke@lineone.net>
Hi Folks,
It seems to have gone a bit quiet on the DOTH front. How about White
Waltham on Thursday 7th. I've never been there so I've no comments to
add - other than that the voucher is in Flyer. The weather should be
as good as any day this week.
Cheers,
Paddy Clarke
Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM
Message 12
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
<<I have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I
think
> this will fix my problem. I don't know if this is a design problem. >>
I think it IS a design problem. The Europa panel is a 'sealed box' and gets
very warm behind it due to heat through the firewall and sunshine on the
dark-coloured top. There is no ventilation to counter this.
I've found the same solution as yours to be satisfactory (i.e. vent from
outside directly into the 'box' with vents in the top of the panel to
exhaust the warmed air).There have been alot of avionics fried in Europas,
Terra radios mostly.
Vents and fans in the base of the instrument panel don't work well because
that just draws in the hot air that comes off the firewall-footwells and
floats along the underside of the panel. Try holding your hand at the aft
lower corner of the panel during flight and you'll see what I mean.
Duncan McF.
DuncanMcF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: with Dynon
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
>
> Mike
>
> My cockpit got very hot while we were flying from Oshkosh to Arizonans. I
> have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I
think
> this will fix my problem.
>
> I don't know if this is a design problem. The heat behind my panel was
> probably a lot higher than the cockpit. I have not ask Dynon what temp
they
> have set up to be the trigger point for the "flag" .
>
> One thing about the new Dynon D10A is that it outputs it's altitude to the
> transponder in a new way. My transponder is and older design from
> Bendix/King and will not accept this serial output mode. I will not be
> upgrading to The new D10A.
>
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/
>
> I just called them. The temp that the D10 goes "black and white" is 50 C
.
> That is hot. The tumble problem is not a roll rate issue. It seems to be
> related to vibration in just a few airplanes. The EMI problem has a
filter
> available for $10 that goes on the D25 plug. (if EMI bothers your
airplane)
> What else and I find out for you? (I love this thing)
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> Weather in today, I am afraid ! Bummer
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info>
Hi Paddy
WW is good, food is excellent and landing fees reasonable, or in this
case free. Just don't run over any hares! There are loads of them.
By the by watch out for a pillock dressed as Biggles doing rides in a
Tiger Moth, he loves cutting inside on the downwind leg!
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paddy
Clarke
Subject: Europa-List: Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paddy Clarke
--> <paddyclarke@lineone.net>
Hi Folks,
It seems to have gone a bit quiet on the DOTH front. How about
White
Waltham on Thursday 7th. I've never been there so I've no comments to
add - other than that the voucher is in Flyer. The weather should be
as good as any day this week.
Cheers,
Paddy Clarke
Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
---
---
Message 14
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Subject: | E-mail contact for E(2004)? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
Europa Community:
Has anyone yet been able to contact E(2004) support via e-mail?
I tried to contact Andy (andy@europa-aircraft.com) with a question and
the e-mail bounced (reason: 550 relay not permitted).
Good building,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
Message 15
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Subject: | Electrical question for 914 folks |
--> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
Europaphiles,
This is the question I had for Andy. Perhaps some of you folks who
have completed a 914 installation can help.
I am completing the electrical wiring. I have some questions about
wiring in the two fuel pumps and the trim system.
The diagram on page 25-11 shows a single fuel pump being fed from right
from the load side of the Main alternator through a 30 Amp Slow Blow
fuse and simple 5 Amp breaker. None of your electrical diagrams show
the wiring for electrical fuel pump #2 for the 914.
My aircraft has the battery isolator solenoid fitted.
My panel, as wired by Gulf Coast Avionics, has a 35 Amp circuit breaker
in the electrically equivalent location of the 30 Amp Slow Blow Fuse.
They have pump #1 being being supplied from the Line side of the main
circuit breaker, thence through a 5 Amp circuit breaker and to the
pump. I believe this is the electrical equivalent of the the circuit
for pump 1. Presently, the only way to shut off pump #1 is to pull the
circuit breaker. Should pump #1 go through a switched breaker rather
than a simple breaker?
Pump #2 is presently supplied from the Load side of the main circuit
breaker, thence through a switched 5 Amp circuit breaker and to the
pump. Is this correct? Is this OK? Or, should it also be supplied
from the Line side of the main circuit breaker?
Your diagram (25-11 again) states that the trim should be fed directly
from the battery if the battery isolator solenoid is fitted. Should it
be fed from the hot side of the solenoid or from the load side of the
solenoid?
The trim wiring, as supplied by GCA, is fed from the Load side of the
main circuit breaker and no switch is provided. I do plan to add a
switch to the trim circuit. I need to know from where it should be
supplied.
I hope this is clear. If not, let me know and I'll try to provide a
better description.
Good building all,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
Message 16
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Subject: | E-mail contact for E(2004)? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Dean Seitz" <daseitz@cfl.rr.com>
I talked to them this morning and ordered a FWF kit and asked about the
email. He said it was not working yet but the fax is. It is the same fax
number as before.
Dean Seitz
Kit A284 N284A XS Tri, 914
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rlborger
Subject: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
--> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
Europa Community:
Has anyone yet been able to contact E(2004) support via e-mail?
I tried to contact Andy (andy@europa-aircraft.com) with a question and
the e-mail bounced (reason: 550 relay not permitted).
Good building,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: long range fuel tank |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Andrew,
If you contact me off list I will send you the photographs of my DIY long
range kit. It cost $50.00 and works great.
Paul
N378PJ 110 hours and still grinning
----- Original Message -----
From: <ACJARVIS1@aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: long range fuel tank
> --> Europa-List message posted by: ACJARVIS1@aol.com
>
> I'm getting near to installing my cockpit module- not through countless
hours
> of toil but because I opted for the promotion which included the ready
made
> module.
>
> I was impressed by Paul Stewart's suggestion of upgrading the fuel
selector
> to the Andair.
> so now is obviously the time to do it .
>
> BUT I also would like to plan for option of fitting the long range tank.
> .....assuming it will still be available, and can someone email me the
> instructions?
>
> Question : what should I do next, plumbing-wise?
>
>
> Andrew Jarvis 599
>
> Motor glider monowheel
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: E-mail contact for E(2004)? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Vaughn Teegarden" <VRTEEGARDEN@peoplepc.com>
If you talked to them, would you share the phone number or is it the same as
before. I tried there today and only got a busy signal. Of course it could
be that the only line that Sprint has out of Bristol, VA was tied up.
Vaughn Teegarden
Needind a FWF soon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Seitz" <daseitz@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Dean Seitz" <daseitz@cfl.rr.com>
>
> I talked to them this morning and ordered a FWF kit and asked about the
> email. He said it was not working yet but the fax is. It is the same fax
> number as before.
>
>
> Dean Seitz
> Kit A284 N284A XS Tri, 914
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rlborger
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
>
> Europa Community:
>
> Has anyone yet been able to contact E(2004) support via e-mail?
>
> I tried to contact Andy (andy@europa-aircraft.com) with a question and
> the e-mail bounced (reason: 550 relay not permitted).
>
> Good building,
> Bob Borger
> Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
> http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL
> (75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
> system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
> Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
> in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
> Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
> Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208
> Home: 940-497-2123
> Cel: 817-992-1117
>
>
Message 19
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--> Europa-List message posted by: John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney@worldnet.att.net>
<<<<<<<Time: 11:31:51 AM PST US
From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Long EZ's into space with Dynon
Hi all you Europa crazies... Me Too! I am close to ordering a Dynon for my bird
but I have spoken with 2 people (RV Builders) that have talked to other people
with supposedly
bad experience with it. I have heard that after left to right rolls the
unit does not like to right itself. Now I know how negative things can
spread so I am relying on all you experienced flyers using it to give
me the scoop first hand. How about it! Are there enough of you flying
with it to give a comment? Can anyone comment from experience.
Thanks in advance, Jeff A258 >>>>>>>
Hi Jeff,
I have had a Dynon D10 for 15 months and have about 195 hours of time on it. I
have had some problems (i) initial incorrect attitude indication (corrected by
software upgrade), (ii) internal airspeed sensor leak (fixed by factory) and
(iii) major horizon oscillation at low engine speeds (Now fixed by latest software.
It turned out that my 2 blade prop frequency at 4650 engine rpm coincided
with the internal refresh rate frequency.) The factory has always given me good
service and response. After all this, it is now working fine and I am not
aware of any problems. I would recommend the unit.
I use the unit basically as a horizon reference only since I have a standard '6
pack' panel and as I do not do any aerobatics I cannot testify about self righting
problems. Per the handbook, the horizon display will go grey if you exceed
150 degrees per second roll rate but I never see any problem of that nature.
Again per the handbook, it usually recovers within 30 seconds.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S, Whirlwind C/S prop
Mooresville, North Carolina
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