Europa-List Digest Archive

Tue 10/05/04


Total Messages Posted: 19



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:50 AM - Insurance (Sean O'Reilly)
     2. 04:56 AM - Re: Insurance (Pete Lawless)
     3. 06:09 AM - Re: Insurance (David Joyce)
     4. 09:14 AM - Wiring conduits (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
     5. 09:24 AM - Europa Glider Pilots (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
     6. 09:33 AM - Re: with Dynon (Cliff Shaw)
     7. 09:59 AM - Re: with Dynon (JEFF ROBERTS)
     8. 10:37 AM - Re: Wiring conduits (Rocketman)
     9. 12:00 PM - Re: Wiring conduits (Gerry Holland)
    10. 12:06 PM - Re: Re: prop sizes for monowheels (Duncan McFadyean)
    11. 12:18 PM - Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th (Paddy Clarke)
    12. 12:23 PM - Re: with Dynon (Duncan McFadyean)
    13. 02:29 PM - Re: Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th (Pete Lawless)
    14. 03:08 PM - E-mail contact for E(2004)? (rlborger)
    15. 03:13 PM - Electrical question for 914 folks (rlborger)
    16. 05:14 PM - Re: E-mail contact for E(2004)? (Dean Seitz)
    17. 05:16 PM - Re: long range fuel tank (Paul McAllister)
    18. 05:51 PM - Re: E-mail contact for E(2004)? (Vaughn Teegarden)
    19. 07:28 PM - Dynon (John & Paddy Wigney)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:50:26 AM PST US
    From: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Insurance
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly@hotmail.com> Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations re Europa friendly insurers based on recent experience? Thanks Sean O'Reilly Reigate, Surrey 07818 011023 Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:56:10 AM PST US
    From: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info>
    Subject: Insurance
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info> Sean I have used Jennings and am currently with Traffords. Traffords were a tiny bit cheaper this year and continued to provide air side car insurance which Jennings had dropped. Mine is a Classic. Regards Pete Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean O'Reilly Subject: Europa-List: Insurance --> Europa-List message posted by: "Sean O'Reilly" --> <seanmoreilly@hotmail.com> Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations re Europa friendly insurers based on recent experience? Thanks Sean O'Reilly Reigate, Surrey 07818 011023 Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo == direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. == == == --- ---


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:09:49 AM PST US
    From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
    Subject: Re: Insurance
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> Sean, I have tried Traffords & Jennings but this year found Hall & Clarke www.hallandclarke.co.uk gave the best deal. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly@hotmail.com> Subject: Europa-List: Insurance > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly@hotmail.com> > > > Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations re Europa friendly insurers > based on recent experience? > > Thanks > > Sean O'Reilly > Reigate, Surrey > 07818 011023 > > Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Doctors.net.uk e-mail protects you from viruses and unsolicited messages > _______________________________________________________________________ > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:14:57 AM PST US
    From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
    Subject: Wiring conduits
    --> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com In a message dated 10/4/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, europa-list-digest@matronics.com writes: > Andrew, > ...don't know the details of your 'ready made' module, but I > would suggest planning the routing for wires (conduits) before gluing in. > There are a number of routes for wiring which may be arduous after the > insertion and now would be the time..... I had the advantage of assembling > old-style and have imbedded drink straw routes through some of the cockpit > where not structural, and included double length pullthrough fishing line > for any future inclusion. > Like several others, I opted for alu fuel lines where they are > difficult to replace, hoping thereby to avoid scraped knuckles in 5 > years........... > Cheers and good luck, > Ferg > A064 Greetings all, I thought I'd chime in here since I just finished my conduits. What I did was make a mold using PVC pipe, actually about quarter round of a 2" PVC pipe. I cut the PVC lenthwise in half with a band saw, then in half again and flattened out the edges using a belt sander. Then a cut for the proper length for the conduit was made, plus a couple of inches. Then I taped the 4 PVC quarter rounds to a piece of particle board and covered it in packing tape, leaving enough space between them to allow for flanges of about 3/4" on each side of the PVC, thereby completing the mold. 2 layers of 'bid sandwich a layer of "E" glass tape were applied to each mold extending out about 3/4" past the side edges of the PVC to provide flanges for later installation with flox and a few inches longer than needed. 4 of these were made. Two to go from the rear bulkhead to the door sill and two to go from the forward edge of the door sills to the instrument panel. Installing them over the rebate between the upper and lower fuselage halves results in the inside diameter of these conduits being slightly larger than a BNC connector, so should I ever have to replace coax it can be done. On the right side the rear conduit intersects the fuel filler cover front and back, but isn't tied into the fuel filler cover. Slots were shaped into the cover to accept the molded conduits. Next, and since reinforcement is needed under the door sills to keep the paint from cracking due to putting your weight on the sill during entering and exiting the aircraft, I roughly fabricated foam molds, triangular in shape, on the bandsaw, long enough to run the length of the door, plus a couple of inches fore and aft. Then the foam was hot glued in place under the door sills. I then clamped the previously made conduits in place and the foam was sanded to a nice shape so that it flows neatly from conduit to door sill conduit to conduit. This foam was also sanded to shape so that it ties smoothly into the irrigation pipe conduit I made in the windscreen frame to feed switch wires and XM antenna feed to my overhead panel. I then taped over the molded conduits and the foam with packing tape and covered the door sill area with 3 layers of 'bid, including about a 1" overlap onto the previously molded conduits for and aft. Once the door sills kicked, I removed all the molded parts, cleaned up the edges on the band saw, scuffed the bonding flanges and re-installed all of the conduits with flox. Sanding and floating in the edges with a small amount of bondo after the flox kicked and painting the cockpit with Zolatone resulted in conduits which look like they are molded as part of the fuselage side. The door sills are really stiff too. I'm very pleased with the results. It kills two birds with one rock and the result is certainly worth the 10 or so hours it took to make them. I'd be happy to send pictures off list to anyone interested in seeing this method. It really makes the cockpit look nice. I didn't leave a pull string, but what you can do is use a shop vac on one end of the conduit to suck a length of string through should the need arise to add wires. I learned this trick from an electrician friend and it works great! Regards, John Lawton Dunlap, TN A-245 (Working on the tailpost and rudder between glider tows)


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:24:36 AM PST US
    From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
    Subject: Europa Glider Pilots
    --> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com In a message dated 10/4/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, europa-list-digest@matronics.com writes: > I started flying Hang Gliders here in the Owens Valley in 1982. John, did > you ever fly our here? > > Then started flying sailplanes in 1990 and soon added an instructor > certificate. > > And then started flying rented spam cans, the most expensive and least fun. > Sure look forward to flying the Europa soon and someday adding long wings to > my 914/ airmaster XS. > > Kevin, A-211 Hi Kevin, I've never flown in the Owens, but I have flown Telluride several times, Gunnison at Widow's Creek, Paradox Valley, west of Telluride, Torrey Pines, King Mountain in Idaho, and of course all over here in the Southeast. I live a half mile from the Tennessee Tree Toppers Henson's Gap site. www.treetoppers.org I think my brother has flown in the Owens though. I know he competed at Chelan on year. I run a glider tow club out of our airstrip here in the Sequatchie Valley of southeast Tennessee now. Folks call the Sequatchie the "Owens Valley of the East" I haven't flown hang gliders much for the past couple of years since we bought the airport. I've been concentrating on flying sailplanes mostly, about 130 hours so far this year. I also tow a lot too. Last weekend I did about 30 tows in our Pawnee. No rest for the weary...... Regards, John Lawton Dunlap, TN A-245 (working on sternpost and rudder inbetween glider tows) DO NOT ARCHIVE


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:33:25 AM PST US
    From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: with Dynon
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net> Mike My cockpit got very hot while we were flying from Oshkosh to Arizonans. I have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I think this will fix my problem. I don't know if this is a design problem. The heat behind my panel was probably a lot higher than the cockpit. I have not ask Dynon what temp they have set up to be the trigger point for the "flag" . One thing about the new Dynon D10A is that it outputs it's altitude to the transponder in a new way. My transponder is and older design from Bendix/King and will not accept this serial output mode. I will not be upgrading to The new D10A. http://www.dynondevelopment.com/ I just called them. The temp that the D10 goes "black and white" is 50 C . That is hot. The tumble problem is not a roll rate issue. It seems to be related to vibration in just a few airplanes. The EMI problem has a filter available for $10 that goes on the D25 plug. (if EMI bothers your airplane) What else and I find out for you? (I love this thing) Cliff Shaw 1041 Euclid ave. Edmonds, WA 98020 425 776 5555 Weather in today, I am afraid ! Bummer


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:59:34 AM PST US
    From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
    Subject: Re: with Dynon
    --> Europa-List message posted by: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net> Cliff and all, Thanks for your responses. I will be ordering the Dynon. It seams as though vibration is the enemy so a softer mount for the front panel plate would be smart. In any case thank for all the responses. Kindest Regards, Jeff A258 Priming, Sanding, Wiring, for a long time. On Oct 5, 2004, at 11:32 AM, Cliff Shaw wrote: > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net> > > Mike > > My cockpit got very hot while we were flying from Oshkosh to > Arizonans. I > have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I > think > this will fix my problem. > > I don't know if this is a design problem. The heat behind my panel was > probably a lot higher than the cockpit. I have not ask Dynon what temp > they > have set up to be the trigger point for the "flag" . > > One thing about the new Dynon D10A is that it outputs it's altitude to > the > transponder in a new way. My transponder is and older design from > Bendix/King and will not accept this serial output mode. I will not be > upgrading to The new D10A. > > http://www.dynondevelopment.com/ > > I just called them. The temp that the D10 goes "black and white" is > 50 C . > That is hot. The tumble problem is not a roll rate issue. It seems to > be > related to vibration in just a few airplanes. The EMI problem has a > filter > available for $10 that goes on the D25 plug. (if EMI bothers your > airplane) > What else and I find out for you? (I love this thing) > > Cliff Shaw > 1041 Euclid ave. > Edmonds, WA 98020 > 425 776 5555 > Weather in today, I am afraid ! Bummer > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:37:18 AM PST US
    From: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Wiring conduits
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net> TELEDYNMCS@aol.com wrote: >--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com > >In a message dated 10/4/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, >europa-list-digest@matronics.com writes: > > > >>Andrew, >> ...don't know the details of your 'ready made' module, but I >>would suggest planning the routing for wires (conduits) before gluing in. >>There are a number of routes for wiring which may be arduous after the >>insertion and now would be the time..... I had the advantage of assembling >>old-style and have imbedded drink straw routes through some of the cockpit >>where not structural, and included double length pullthrough fishing line >>for any future inclusion. >> Like several others, I opted for alu fuel lines where they are >>difficult to replace, hoping thereby to avoid scraped knuckles in 5 >>years........... >>Cheers and good luck, >>Ferg >>A064 >> >> > >Greetings all, > >I thought I'd chime in here since I just finished my conduits. What I did was >make a mold using PVC pipe, actually about quarter round of a 2" PVC pipe. I >cut the PVC lenthwise in half with a band saw, then in half again and >flattened out the edges using a belt sander. Then a cut for the proper length for the >conduit was made, plus a couple of inches. Then I taped the 4 PVC quarter >rounds to a piece of particle board and covered it in packing tape, leaving enough >space between them to allow for flanges of about 3/4" on each side of the >PVC, thereby completing the mold. 2 layers of 'bid sandwich a layer of "E" glass >tape were applied to each mold extending out about 3/4" past the side edges of >the PVC to provide flanges for later installation with flox and a few inches >longer than needed. 4 of these were made. Two to go from the rear bulkhead to >the door sill and two to go from the forward edge of the door sills to the >instrument panel. Installing them over the rebate between the upper and lower >fuselage halves results in the inside diameter of these conduits being slightly >larger than a BNC connector, so should I ever have to replace coax it can be >done. On the right side the rear conduit intersects the fuel filler cover front >and back, but isn't tied into the fuel filler cover. Slots were shaped into >the cover to accept the molded conduits. > >Next, and since reinforcement is needed under the door sills to keep the >paint from cracking due to putting your weight on the sill during entering and >exiting the aircraft, I roughly fabricated foam molds, triangular in shape, on >the bandsaw, long enough to run the length of the door, plus a couple of inches >fore and aft. Then the foam was hot glued in place under the door sills. I >then clamped the previously made conduits in place and the foam was sanded to a >nice shape so that it flows neatly from conduit to door sill conduit to >conduit. This foam was also sanded to shape so that it ties smoothly into the >irrigation pipe conduit I made in the windscreen frame to feed switch wires and XM >antenna feed to my overhead panel. I then taped over the molded conduits and the >foam with packing tape and covered the door sill area with 3 layers of 'bid, >including about a 1" overlap onto the previously molded conduits for and aft. >Once the door sills kicked, I removed all the molded parts, cleaned up the >edges on the band saw, scuffed the bonding flanges and re-installed all of the >conduits with flox. Sanding and floating in the edges with a small amount of >bondo after the flox kicked and painting the cockpit with Zolatone resulted in >conduits which look like they are molded as part of the fuselage side. The door >sills are really stiff too. I'm very pleased with the results. It kills two >birds with one rock and the result is certainly worth the 10 or so hours it took >to make them. > >I'd be happy to send pictures off list to anyone interested in seeing this >method. It really makes the cockpit look nice. > >I didn't leave a pull string, but what you can do is use a shop vac on one >end of the conduit to suck a length of string through should the need arise to >add wires. I learned this trick from an electrician friend and it works great! > >Regards, > >John Lawton >Dunlap, TN >A-245 (Working on the tailpost and rudder between glider tows) > > > I built my own conduits, using 1 x 2 wooden firing strips, covered with plastic tape. I laid them on my table, on a piece of sheet plastic and then laid up two plys of BID wide enough to leave a 1/2" flange. Once cured, I simply cut out the flanges, where they went under the door. Very light and plenty of room. Wire can be pulled using a standard fish tape... -- Jeff - A055 Finished filling and sanding the wings. Door screens are next... Builders Log http://www.n55xs.com


    Message 9


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    Time: 12:00:28 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wiring conduits
    From: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com> Another useful preformed conduit is the twin walled plastic piping used in water or heating applications. It comes in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" diameters and about 6' - 10' long. It's also has a range of angle bends that fit externally if required. It is very pliable and more importantly lightweight. I used 1/2" on both sides. Fixed it tight up under horizontal Door frame on both sides, applied a little flox a then 2 layers of bid. The same practice was used around front screen surround to give a conduit to overhead panel wiring. The strength it added serves well on door frames and also a sort of rollover strength to front screen frame. Regards Gerry


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:06:40 PM PST US
    From: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: RE: prop sizes for monowheels
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> Case of ".. being hung for a sheep as a lamb..." Duncan McF do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk> Subject: RE: Europa-List: RE: prop sizes for monowheels > --> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk> > > <<I use a 64inch prop with my Classic on the basis that if you get > within 1inch of prop strike it is very likely that the aircraft will > continue pitching until the prop touches the ground anyway. > >> > > >I'm sure there's some logic here, but I need it explained to me!< > > The point is that if you pitch far enough over during a ground loop (the > most common reason for prop strike) once you have gone far enough to > strike a 64 inch prop on a Classic the pitch angle and inertia is such > that it would have almost certainly continued the extra inch required to > strike a 62 inch prop. The only time I see the smaller diameter saving > the day is a strike over rough ground where the strike is not due to > loss of control. However this is not a very likely scenario. I measured > the prop ground clearances (a/c empty) to be 11 inches and 12 inches > respectively. > > Although the above is just a theory and I have been lucky enough not to > have a prop strike so far, talking to those that have the impression is > that once the groundloop has started the pitch/roll manoeuvre continues > until the prop strikes. > > Nigel Charles > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:18:08 PM PST US
    From: Paddy Clarke <paddyclarke@lineone.net>
    Subject: Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Paddy Clarke <paddyclarke@lineone.net> Hi Folks, It seems to have gone a bit quiet on the DOTH front. How about White Waltham on Thursday 7th. I've never been there so I've no comments to add - other than that the voucher is in Flyer. The weather should be as good as any day this week. Cheers, Paddy Clarke Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM


    Message 12


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    Time: 12:23:05 PM PST US
    From: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: with Dynon
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> <<I have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I think > this will fix my problem. I don't know if this is a design problem. >> I think it IS a design problem. The Europa panel is a 'sealed box' and gets very warm behind it due to heat through the firewall and sunshine on the dark-coloured top. There is no ventilation to counter this. I've found the same solution as yours to be satisfactory (i.e. vent from outside directly into the 'box' with vents in the top of the panel to exhaust the warmed air).There have been alot of avionics fried in Europas, Terra radios mostly. Vents and fans in the base of the instrument panel don't work well because that just draws in the hot air that comes off the firewall-footwells and floats along the underside of the panel. Try holding your hand at the aft lower corner of the panel during flight and you'll see what I mean. Duncan McF. DuncanMcF. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net> Subject: Re: Europa-List: with Dynon > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net> > > Mike > > My cockpit got very hot while we were flying from Oshkosh to Arizonans. I > have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I think > this will fix my problem. > > I don't know if this is a design problem. The heat behind my panel was > probably a lot higher than the cockpit. I have not ask Dynon what temp they > have set up to be the trigger point for the "flag" . > > One thing about the new Dynon D10A is that it outputs it's altitude to the > transponder in a new way. My transponder is and older design from > Bendix/King and will not accept this serial output mode. I will not be > upgrading to The new D10A. > > http://www.dynondevelopment.com/ > > I just called them. The temp that the D10 goes "black and white" is 50 C . > That is hot. The tumble problem is not a roll rate issue. It seems to be > related to vibration in just a few airplanes. The EMI problem has a filter > available for $10 that goes on the D25 plug. (if EMI bothers your airplane) > What else and I find out for you? (I love this thing) > > Cliff Shaw > 1041 Euclid ave. > Edmonds, WA 98020 > 425 776 5555 > Weather in today, I am afraid ! Bummer > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:29:14 PM PST US
    From: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info>
    Subject: Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info> Hi Paddy WW is good, food is excellent and landing fees reasonable, or in this case free. Just don't run over any hares! There are loads of them. By the by watch out for a pillock dressed as Biggles doing rides in a Tiger Moth, he loves cutting inside on the downwind leg! Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paddy Clarke Subject: Europa-List: Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th --> Europa-List message posted by: Paddy Clarke --> <paddyclarke@lineone.net> Hi Folks, It seems to have gone a bit quiet on the DOTH front. How about White Waltham on Thursday 7th. I've never been there so I've no comments to add - other than that the voucher is in Flyer. The weather should be as good as any day this week. Cheers, Paddy Clarke Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM == direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. == == == --- ---


    Message 14


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    Time: 03:08:07 PM PST US
    From: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
    Subject: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
    --> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com> Europa Community: Has anyone yet been able to contact E(2004) support via e-mail? I tried to contact Andy (andy@europa-aircraft.com) with a question and the e-mail bounced (reason: 550 relay not permitted). Good building, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL (75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in, Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27 Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing. 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:13:05 PM PST US
    From: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
    Subject: Electrical question for 914 folks
    --> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com> Europaphiles, This is the question I had for Andy. Perhaps some of you folks who have completed a 914 installation can help. I am completing the electrical wiring. I have some questions about wiring in the two fuel pumps and the trim system. The diagram on page 25-11 shows a single fuel pump being fed from right from the load side of the Main alternator through a 30 Amp Slow Blow fuse and simple 5 Amp breaker. None of your electrical diagrams show the wiring for electrical fuel pump #2 for the 914. My aircraft has the battery isolator solenoid fitted. My panel, as wired by Gulf Coast Avionics, has a 35 Amp circuit breaker in the electrically equivalent location of the 30 Amp Slow Blow Fuse. They have pump #1 being being supplied from the Line side of the main circuit breaker, thence through a 5 Amp circuit breaker and to the pump. I believe this is the electrical equivalent of the the circuit for pump 1. Presently, the only way to shut off pump #1 is to pull the circuit breaker. Should pump #1 go through a switched breaker rather than a simple breaker? Pump #2 is presently supplied from the Load side of the main circuit breaker, thence through a switched 5 Amp circuit breaker and to the pump. Is this correct? Is this OK? Or, should it also be supplied from the Line side of the main circuit breaker? Your diagram (25-11 again) states that the trim should be fed directly from the battery if the battery isolator solenoid is fitted. Should it be fed from the hot side of the solenoid or from the load side of the solenoid? The trim wiring, as supplied by GCA, is fed from the Load side of the main circuit breaker and no switch is provided. I do plan to add a switch to the trim circuit. I need to know from where it should be supplied. I hope this is clear. If not, let me know and I'll try to provide a better description. Good building all, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL (75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in, Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27 Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing. 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117


    Message 16


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    Time: 05:14:54 PM PST US
    From: "Dean Seitz" <daseitz@cfl.rr.com>
    Subject: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Dean Seitz" <daseitz@cfl.rr.com> I talked to them this morning and ordered a FWF kit and asked about the email. He said it was not working yet but the fax is. It is the same fax number as before. Dean Seitz Kit A284 N284A XS Tri, 914 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rlborger Subject: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)? --> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com> Europa Community: Has anyone yet been able to contact E(2004) support via e-mail? I tried to contact Andy (andy@europa-aircraft.com) with a question and the e-mail bounced (reason: 550 relay not permitted). Good building, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL (75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in, Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27 Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing. 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117


    Message 17


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    Time: 05:16:15 PM PST US
    From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
    Subject: Re: long range fuel tank
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net> Andrew, If you contact me off list I will send you the photographs of my DIY long range kit. It cost $50.00 and works great. Paul N378PJ 110 hours and still grinning ----- Original Message ----- From: <ACJARVIS1@aol.com> Subject: Europa-List: long range fuel tank > --> Europa-List message posted by: ACJARVIS1@aol.com > > I'm getting near to installing my cockpit module- not through countless hours > of toil but because I opted for the promotion which included the ready made > module. > > I was impressed by Paul Stewart's suggestion of upgrading the fuel selector > to the Andair. > so now is obviously the time to do it . > > BUT I also would like to plan for option of fitting the long range tank. > .....assuming it will still be available, and can someone email me the > instructions? > > Question : what should I do next, plumbing-wise? > > > Andrew Jarvis 599 > > Motor glider monowheel > >


    Message 18


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    Time: 05:51:47 PM PST US
    From: "Vaughn Teegarden" <VRTEEGARDEN@peoplepc.com>
    Subject: Re: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Vaughn Teegarden" <VRTEEGARDEN@peoplepc.com> If you talked to them, would you share the phone number or is it the same as before. I tried there today and only got a busy signal. Of course it could be that the only line that Sprint has out of Bristol, VA was tied up. Vaughn Teegarden Needind a FWF soon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dean Seitz" <daseitz@cfl.rr.com> Subject: RE: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)? > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Dean Seitz" <daseitz@cfl.rr.com> > > I talked to them this morning and ordered a FWF kit and asked about the > email. He said it was not working yet but the fax is. It is the same fax > number as before. > > > Dean Seitz > Kit A284 N284A XS Tri, 914 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rlborger > To: europa-list@matronics.com > Subject: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)? > > --> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com> > > Europa Community: > > Has anyone yet been able to contact E(2004) support via e-mail? > > I tried to contact Andy (andy@europa-aircraft.com) with a question and > the e-mail bounced (reason: 550 relay not permitted). > > Good building, > Bob Borger > Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S > http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL > (75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch > system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in, > Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar > in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27 > Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door > Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing. > 3705 Lynchburg Dr. > Corinth, TX 76208 > Home: 940-497-2123 > Cel: 817-992-1117 > >


    Message 19


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    Time: 07:28:23 PM PST US
    From: John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney@worldnet.att.net>
    Subject: Dynon
    --> Europa-List message posted by: John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney@worldnet.att.net> <<<<<<<Time: 11:31:51 AM PST US From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Long EZ's into space with Dynon Hi all you Europa crazies... Me Too! I am close to ordering a Dynon for my bird but I have spoken with 2 people (RV Builders) that have talked to other people with supposedly bad experience with it. I have heard that after left to right rolls the unit does not like to right itself. Now I know how negative things can spread so I am relying on all you experienced flyers using it to give me the scoop first hand. How about it! Are there enough of you flying with it to give a comment? Can anyone comment from experience. Thanks in advance, Jeff A258 >>>>>>> Hi Jeff, I have had a Dynon D10 for 15 months and have about 195 hours of time on it. I have had some problems (i) initial incorrect attitude indication (corrected by software upgrade), (ii) internal airspeed sensor leak (fixed by factory) and (iii) major horizon oscillation at low engine speeds (Now fixed by latest software. It turned out that my 2 blade prop frequency at 4650 engine rpm coincided with the internal refresh rate frequency.) The factory has always given me good service and response. After all this, it is now working fine and I am not aware of any problems. I would recommend the unit. I use the unit basically as a horizon reference only since I have a standard '6 pack' panel and as I do not do any aerobatics I cannot testify about self righting problems. Per the handbook, the horizon display will go grey if you exceed 150 degrees per second roll rate but I never see any problem of that nature. Again per the handbook, it usually recovers within 30 seconds. Cheers, John N262WF, mono XS, 912S, Whirlwind C/S prop Mooresville, North Carolina




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