Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:28 AM - Re: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In (Gerry Holland)
2. 03:11 AM - Re: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In (Duncan McFadyean)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In (SteveD)
4. 06:07 AM - Antenna Question (SteveD)
5. 06:32 AM - Re: Antenna Question (MICHAEL PARKIN)
6. 10:14 AM - Aircraft jack (David Corbett)
7. 01:47 PM - Re: Aircraft jack (Fergus Kyle)
8. 04:05 PM - Re: pip-pin - tailplane and wing (Steve Crimm)
9. 04:17 PM - Re: Fuel Sender (Rick Sementi)
10. 04:52 PM - Re: pip-pin - tailplane and wing ()
11. 05:02 PM - Re: pip-pin - tailplane and wing (Tony Krzyzewski)
12. 08:28 PM - Re: jpg twaddle (Fergus Kyle)
13. 09:09 PM - Re: Aircraft jack (JR (Bob) Gowing)
14. 09:28 PM - Ignition problem (David DeFord)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Mike Hi!
> I'm just going to quickly transfer my notes for those of us that have decided
> to go with, or already have, a Rotax in their Europa.
Many Thanks for this overview. Lots of interesting maintenance facts.
Regards
Gerry
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
<<. US
> builders.....contact your Rotax dealer because this guy says that the US
Rotax
> importer is subsidizing the replacement of these new starter motor at 1/2
price.>>
I suggest that UK builders deluge the UK agent with the same request. The
response is predictable, but you never know!
http://www.skydrive.co.uk
Can Dave Watts confirm that his recently fitted 912s (in to the Classic
mount) includes the later starter?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DuaneFamly@aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In
> --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
>
> Good day All,
>
> We are just finishing up at the CopperState Fly-In here south of Phoenix,
> Arizona. I sat in on a forum given by a gentleman from Lockwood Aviation.
They
> are a major US source for Rotax engines, accessories, parts, and service
located
> in Sebring, Florida.
>
> I'm just going to quickly transfer my notes for those of us that have
decided
> to go with, or already have, a Rotax in their Europa.
>
> Oil.....biggest cause of concern for Rotax due to the problems caused by
the
> wrong oil, running the oil too hot or too cold, or mounting the oil
container
> too high. For the 914, Lockwood recommends Mobil 1 MX4T Synthetic. But if
you
> use 100LL occasionally, do the oil change every 50 hours. If you use 100LL
> exclusively, then do the oil change every 25 hours. The lead in the avgas
mixes
> in with the oil and slowly covers the oil channels inside the engine
until,
> like arterial sclerosis, your engine has a heart attack. For the 912 &
912S they
> use Penzoil Motorcycle Racing oil 10W40 or 20W50. He says that the Penzoil
> still has Phosphorus in their base oil and this prevents the oil from
foaming,
> turning into a thick mousse, and not to returning to the sump. There are
also
> many AD's on keeping air out of the oil. Also, oil temp is important to
keep
> 210-230 F range. This can be difficult to do if you set up your oil
cooling
> system to work well in hot temps, it will cool the oil too much in cooler
temps.
> And Vice versa. They recommend an oil thermostat to shunt the oil around
the
> cooler until it gets to temp. When mounting the oil sump, don't place it
too high
> in relation to the engine or you may get the oil to siphon into the engine
> after shutdown. Then when you check your oil it will look low, you add
oil, and
> now you have too much and it gets dumped out.
>
> The carb flanges that people had trouble with splitting recently. There
are
> new flanges out that are stronger material and the clamp has a spacer to
> prevent the screw from being over tightened. If you have the old style,
then tighten
> the screw until you have a 7mm gap at the underside between the two sides
of
> the clamp. This is sufficient, especially when using an airbox. Too tight
and
> you will either squeeze out the flange and it will pop off or it will
split
> right at the clamp in short time.
>
> Float Bowl gaskets - If you remove the float bowls and the gasket comes
off,
> reseat it into the groove in the carb......don't try to sit it on top of
the
> bowl and press it up into place. It will not seat and probably leak...or
worse
> it will get damaged.
>
> On new engines.....the carbs are set to full open...if you start it up
> without a prop you will reach damage level rev in less than a second.
> Idle set screws should not be used to set the idle if you can set it at
the
> throttle quadrant. Otherwise you could bend the set screw mounts if you
> hurriedly pull back on the throttle.
> If you run an airbox, run the overflow tubes from the carbs into the
airbox
> so the float bowls see the same pressure as the carbs. If no airbox, do
not
> extend the overflow tubes as it may be fine on the ground at idle but the
> pressure will change in flight.
> With the carbs off and upside down when the float bowl is removed, the
float
> arm should be horizontal.
>
> Synchronizing the carbs is the means of allowing your engine to run
trouble
> free until TBO. They should be synchronize every 100 hours unless there is
> trouble. Unsynchronized carbs cause excessive gearbox wear. Idle should be
set at
> 1800 rpm...under 1400 rpm the engine runs bad and will probably shut down.
> Synchronizing the carbs can be done with a kit they sell and takes about
45
> minutes the first time you try it, then only 20 minutes from then on.
>
> Gearbox - On the 912S, the service should be done at about 500 hours.
Sooner
> if you don't sync your carbs. The gearbox can be removed by removing the
two
> bolts that attach the fuel pump and let the pump hang by the hoses. Then
remove
> all the bolts holding the gearbox. I think that he said that there are two
> bolts near the bottom that are a different size. Then with the prop off,
use a
> rubber mallet to lightly tap the back side of the prop flange to evenly
remove
> the gearbox. If you clean it up and ship it to them, they do a two day
> turnaround (usually) for about $100 plus return shipping.
>
> EGT's - they don't recommend them because you can't do anything about it,
the
> front ones will always be higher than the rear, and at cruise they hardly
> ever agree. Nominal temp runs about 1470'F with a max of 1560'F. This is
measured
> with their EGT setup that has the probe 36mm from the manifold. If yours
is
> more then it will run lower, closer it will run hotter.
>
> K&N Carb Filters - Use only the K&N cleaner. If you use solvent or
gasoline
> you may ruin the filter paper. After cleaning let it air dry then apply
the K&N
> oil, otherwise the filter will only catch leaves, paper, and bugs. The
grit
> will pass right through. It should be done about every 200 hours...sooner
in
> dusty areas and grass strips.
>
> Verify your prop tachs....he has seen most tachs are reading too low. You
> should run 5600 rpm for take-off and climbout. But 5800 is max, so make
sure your
> tack is right.
>
> And last but not least....he says that if you run a slipper clutch, you
> should have the new starter motor to prevent damage to the sprag clutch.
US
> builders.....contact your Rotax dealer because this guy says that the US
Rotax
> importer is subsidizing the replacement of these new starter motor at 1/2
price.
>
> Questions contact Lockwood. www.lockwood-aviation.com
>
> Mike Duane
> A207 XS Conventional gear
> Redding, California
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
--> Europa-List message posted by: "SteveD" <Post2Forum@comcast.net>
Here's a photo of the gear box removed. Unit was shipped to Lockwood for clutch
installation. It was a pretty easy job to remove and reinstall.
Especially when it's still in it's shipping crate. :)
Steved
----------------
This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=2970#2970
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Antenna Question |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
--> Europa-List message posted by: "SteveD" <Post2Forum@comcast.net>
You'll have to forgive my ignorance but I know nothing about antennas. I'm going
to install a Garmin (UPS) Sl-30 nav-com. I want to use the localizer and glide
slope features. I've installed a Bob Archer Nav antenna (see photo). Do I need
another antenna? I found this on the web:
"The UPSAT SL30 uses regular VHF input and takes the glideslope signal from that
input inside their box, thus no splitter is required."
Thanks,
Steved.
----------------
This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=2971#2971
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin@btopenworld.com>
Steve,
I have the SL30 and run it from the copper tape antenna in the rudder stern
post (Comm) and a copper tape antenna built into the right wing (Nav) - the
ILS localiser and Glideslope works a treat - no splitters or extra boxes
required.
regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "SteveD" <Post2Forum@comcast.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Antenna Question
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "SteveD" <Post2Forum@comcast.net>
>
> You'll have to forgive my ignorance but I know nothing about antennas. I'm
> going to install a Garmin (UPS) Sl-30 nav-com. I want to use the localizer
> and glide slope features. I've installed a Bob Archer Nav antenna (see
> photo). Do I need another antenna? I found this on the web:
> "The UPSAT SL30 uses regular VHF input and takes the glideslope signal
> from that input inside their box, thus no splitter is required."
>
> Thanks,
> Steved.
>
> ----------------
> This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
> http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=2971#2971
>
> ----------------
> Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
>
>
>
Message 6
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|
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Corbett" <David.Corbett@fwi.co.uk>
Some weeks ago I promised to e-mail to those who contacted me off forum photo's
of my aircraft jack.
As I am now doing a 50 hr check, I now have these photo's available; can those
to whom I promised them please remind me who it is that is waiting/
My apologies for the delay - too much flying, etc, etc.
David
G-BZAM 273 hrs
Do not archive.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft jack |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
David,
Me, me, me, oh, me!
Always keen to appreciate the creative arts of fellow [suckers]
builders...........
Ferg
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Corbett" <David.Corbett@fwi.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Aircraft jack
| --> Europa-List message posted by: "David Corbett"
<David.Corbett@fwi.co.uk>
|
| Some weeks ago I promised to e-mail to those who contacted me off forum
photo's of my aircraft jack.
|
| As I am now doing a 50 hr check, I now have these photo's available; can
those to whom I promised them please remind me who it is that is waiting/
|
| My apologies for the delay - too much flying, etc, etc.
|
| David
| G-BZAM 273 hrs
|
| Do not archive.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | pip-pin - tailplane and wing |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm@stephenscott.com>
Flight,
Having recently purchased a completed mono-wheel, I to was scratching my
head on how to pull those little wing pins. Well here is the special tool
that I made to be used to pull and insert the wing pins. It is a regular
set of needle nose pliers that I got at a local DIY/Home Depot store. I
took one side of the pliers and bent 3/8ths of an inch on one side 90
degrees toward the middle. I then filed it down to the correct length to
fit the hole in the pin. I then filed down the un-modified side so that it
was level with the 90 degree bend. I have posted the picture on my web
server at http://www.stephenscott.com/Europa/images/pip_pin_tool.JPG as well
as sent it to the list to be posted. It allows you not only to grab the pin
but give you a good way to grip while pulling.
Regards,
Steve Crimm
A058 - N15JN
--> Europa-List message posted by: "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Here is another to try for inserting and removing pip pins in Elevator and
rear wing attachement -
Take a short length of steel or aluminium 1/2 inch tube which you will have
as a leftover.
Take some strong wire that will go through the hole in the top of the pip
pin and bend a handle on one end and a right - angle bend at the other and
cut it to a length that will be able to just comfortably through the tube.
Put wire through tube and into top of pip pin and you can pull on with and
push on tube to insert and just pull on wire to extract.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz (or Australia)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: pip-pin - tailplane
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein"
<fklein@orcasonline.com>
>
> David,
>
> I am a bit confused at what you describe...any chance that you could post
a
> picture of the pin and the "inserter/extractor"?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
> on 9/17/04 1:52 AM, David Joyce at davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "David Joyce"
<davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
> >
> > An alternative arrangement (not my invention - saw it on someone else's
> > plane and use it on mine) is to have a small steel cross bar in the hole
in
> > the pip pin that the ring comes in - made from a piece of the small rat
> > tailed ( or really mouse tailed) files you can buy sets of very cheaply.
You
> > can then insert or extract the pip pins from both tail plane and wing
root
> > with a tool made of hollowed steel with two spiralling grooves cut at
the
> > end so you 'screw it on ' to the pip pin end. You can then manage with
> > surface openings which are about 12mm wide.
>
> David Joyce G-XSDJ
Message 9
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|
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rick Sementi" <rsementi@hotmail.com>
Hey Ron,
Thanks for your time today! Sorry we couldn't stay longer, my CFI had anoon
client to meet. Next time I'll drive to you so I can spend more time.
It was great to finally see a Europa in person! Yours looks like its turning
out to be a great one too! I will be buying the one currently onwned by Tom
Paul of New City NY. He bought his from a guy in Ca. named Emmet Welch. He
bought it new as a kit from Kim Prout. His early work was all inspected by
Kim Prout and then he sent it down to flight crafters to have both Bob and
Russel do work with Emmet on it.
Then when Paul bought it he also had Bob and Russel do more work with him on
it. It currently is at flight crafters now. I asked both Bob and Russel if
the plane is good and if they recommend i buy it from a quality standpoint.
They both said the plane is fine and that I would not be disappointed.
Should I trust them? You said they hate you but you seem so honest and you
show alot of integrity...and so does Bob and Russel. I can't see why they
would not like you and vice cersa.
Anyway, do you know of any people in Florida that I can have to go look at
the plane?
Thanks for all your help.
Richard
>From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel Sender
>Date: Sat, 09 Oct 2004 19:26:40 -0400
>
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris"
><rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>Hello Dan
>
>Sorry but we have few pics. Too busy building! We used a dremmil with
>permagrit
>wheel to cut hole and sanded smooth the fiberglass. Used a hot knife to cut
>hole
>in tank, and a soldering iron to make small holes. Still needed to sand,
>cut
>excess and drill a little larger the holes. Vacuumed out the tank, got
>most, and
>then flushed with water, right side up and upside down.
>
>Do Not archive
>
>Ron Parigoris
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | pip-pin - tailplane and wing |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
To beat Ferg to the punch, "Oh, My, Oh my! How clever! Great picts.
Tom Friedland
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Crimm
Subject: RE: Europa-List: pip-pin - tailplane and wing
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Crimm"
<steve.crimm@stephenscott.com>
Flight,
Having recently purchased a completed mono-wheel, I to was scratching my
head on how to pull those little wing pins. Well here is the special
tool
that I made to be used to pull and insert the wing pins. It is a
regular
set of needle nose pliers that I got at a local DIY/Home Depot store. I
took one side of the pliers and bent 3/8ths of an inch on one side 90
degrees toward the middle. I then filed it down to the correct length
to
fit the hole in the pin. I then filed down the un-modified side so that
it
was level with the 90 degree bend. I have posted the picture on my web
server at http://www.stephenscott.com/Europa/images/pip_pin_tool.JPG as
well
as sent it to the list to be posted. It allows you not only to grab the
pin
but give you a good way to grip while pulling.
Regards,
Steve Crimm
A058 - N15JN
--> Europa-List message posted by: "JR (Bob) Gowing"
<gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Here is another to try for inserting and removing pip pins in Elevator
and
rear wing attachement -
Take a short length of steel or aluminium 1/2 inch tube which you will
have
as a leftover.
Take some strong wire that will go through the hole in the top of the
pip
pin and bend a handle on one end and a right - angle bend at the other
and
cut it to a length that will be able to just comfortably through the
tube.
Put wire through tube and into top of pip pin and you can pull on with
and
push on tube to insert and just pull on wire to extract.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz (or Australia)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: pip-pin - tailplane
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein"
<fklein@orcasonline.com>
>
> David,
>
> I am a bit confused at what you describe...any chance that you could
post
a
> picture of the pin and the "inserter/extractor"?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
> on 9/17/04 1:52 AM, David Joyce at davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "David Joyce"
<davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
> >
> > An alternative arrangement (not my invention - saw it on someone
else's
> > plane and use it on mine) is to have a small steel cross bar in the
hole
in
> > the pip pin that the ring comes in - made from a piece of the small
rat
> > tailed ( or really mouse tailed) files you can buy sets of very
cheaply.
You
> > can then insert or extract the pip pins from both tail plane and
wing
root
> > with a tool made of hollowed steel with two spiralling grooves cut
at
the
> > end so you 'screw it on ' to the pip pin end. You can then manage
with
> > surface openings which are about 12mm wide.
>
> David Joyce G-XSDJ
==
==
==
==
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | pip-pin - tailplane and wing |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
Clever. Really clever.
Consider yourself to be an honorary Kiwi (who as we all know, can make
just about anything out of a piece of #8 fence wire)
Tony
>>> ..... I then filed it down to the correct length to fit the hole in
the pin. I then filed down the un-modified side so that it was level
with the 90 degree bend.
Message 12
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Sandford" <sandford@melbpc.org.au>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: jpg twaddle
| --> Europa-List message posted by: "Lance Sandford"
<sandford@melbpc.org.au>|
| Thankyou Chris and Tony.
| I am glad there are some people on the forum with enough computer savvy
| to check the supplied Microsoft URL before reaching for the flame gun.|
| Lance Sandford|
| Do Not Archive
| <snip>
| There is a buffer overflow vulnerability in the way that Windows handles
| jpeg images that, with a specially crafted JPEG image, allows up to 2500
| bytes of code to be inserted into a core area of the operating system
| and run as an executable.
|
| We are already tracking exploits in the wild that take advantage of this
| vulnerability and have issued four red alerts in the last 48 hours via
| our E-Secure-IT alert service regarding this vulnerability.
| Tony
Lance, Tony and Chris:
Looks like I have a large apology to make. By way of excuse,
Lance's warning was the third that week of which the previous two had been
false and I led with the chin with the good doctor here who assured me iy
too was a no-no.
I lashed out in frustration at the 'wasted' time without
searching for myself and now grovel in humble forgiveness. I have passed
this on to him as well, and he confirmed when next we met.
My apologies.
Ferg
twaddle specialist
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft jack |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
David
Like Ferg, I too would like to look at photos of your jack if you are
emailing them
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz
(and working toward adjustable seats, I hope.)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Corbett" <David.Corbett@fwi.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Aircraft jack
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "David Corbett"
<David.Corbett@fwi.co.uk>
>
> Some weeks ago I promised to e-mail to those who contacted me off forum
photo's of my aircraft jack.
>
> As I am now doing a 50 hr check, I now have these photo's available; can
those to whom I promised them please remind me who it is that is waiting/
>
> My apologies for the delay - too much flying, etc, etc.
>
> David
> G-BZAM 273 hrs
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Ignition problem |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
On my way to the Copperstate fly-in on Friday, I stopped in Bishop to pick
up Kevin Klinefelter. We heard a loud, irregular popping noise in our
headphones while taxiing to the runway, and the runup showed one rather
rough mag. We checked the plugs and wires, finding no obvious problem with
the wires, but the four plugs in the front cylinders were all very black,
though they had only a few hours on them. (The rear plugs were all fine.)
All plugs were replaced, and everything seemed smooth, including a standard
runup. (During the troubleshooting, the engine had gone from very hot to
very cool, with the cowls removed.) The popping noise began again on
takeoff, so we returned to Bishop, and I dropped off Kevin. With poor
weather in the forecast for the next day, I headed for home (180nm across
the 13000-foot peaks of the Sierra). After a couple of episodes of very
loud popping during the climb, everything quieted down again, so I continued
on up to 15500 feet (912S/Airmaster power), crossed the mountains, and made
it home without further incident.
There are four ignition coils on the 912/914 engines, with each coil firing
two cylinders (one live, one with valves open) at once. I measured the
resistance between the pair of plug wires from each coil, and found 17K
between the top plugs, and open circuits between the bottom plug pairs. The
suspect coil (based on the rough mag and the black plugs in the front
cylinders) is the forward coil on the port side, which fires the bottom
front plugs. It is nearly impossible to see anything in the tangle of wires
and hoses in this area, so I tried to remove the coil. After much struggle,
I got most of the way to the coil, but determined that it would be necessary
to either remove the engine from the ring mount, or remove the starboard
side intake manifold to get the coil out. Access to many parts of the
engine is difficult, but this is ridiculous.
Each plug wire is sheathed in a rubber sleeve, which covers the "tower"
where the wire enters the spark coil. Two of these sleeves are broken at
the coil end. Does anyone know how to remove the spark plug connectors from
the wires, or the wires from the coils? At least one of these must be
necessary, in order to get the wires through the sleeves, and also through
various other sleeves and holes. I suspect that the connectors may unscrew,
but I'd hate to damage one by trying the wrong thing. The coils come with
wires attached (at $280 each), but the wires and sleeves are also listed as
separate parts. It seems likely that my problem is a wire that is sparking
to the engine, or possibly sparking across a break in the coductor, but I
can't figure out how to remove them for further testing or replacement.
If anyone has experience troubleshooting or repairing the Rotax ignition
coil assemblies, I'd certainly appreciate any advice.
Dave DeFord
N135TD
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