Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:25 AM - Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning (Kingsley Hurst)
2. 03:52 AM - Torque settings for Warp Drive prop (owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com)
3. 04:14 AM - Resin Pump for sale (Nigel Harrison)
4. 04:35 AM - Re: (no subject) (Davidghillam@aol.com)
5. 08:35 AM - push rods for the doors (josok)
6. 08:55 AM - Thank you for your email (Dan Viet Newspaper)
7. 09:28 AM - Re: push rods for the doors ()
8. 10:15 AM - Re: push rods for the doors (Dennis Lowe)
9. 11:37 AM - Re: push rods for the doors (NevEyre@aol.com)
10. 12:02 PM - Re: push rods for the doors (simon miles)
11. 12:12 PM - Re: push rods for the doors (RK Hallett III)
12. 12:27 PM - Re: push rods for the doors (Gerry Holland)
13. 12:30 PM - Re: Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning (Duncan McFadyean)
14. 12:36 PM - Re: push rods for the doors (NevEyre@aol.com)
15. 01:00 PM - Re: push rods for the doors (Gerry Holland)
16. 01:07 PM - Routing fuel hose through the firewall (simon miles)
17. 02:08 PM - Finger Brake Conversion (David Simenauer)
18. 03:58 PM - Fuel Line Fittings for Flex Hose thru Firewall (Tony Renshaw)
19. 04:10 PM - Re: Ignition problem (Tony Renshaw)
20. 04:39 PM - Re: push rods for the doors (Paul McAllister)
21. 08:34 PM - Cabin Heater (Steve Crimm)
22. 10:46 PM - Re: Cabin Heater (Gerry Holland)
23. 11:50 PM - Re: Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning (Kingsley Hurst)
Message 1
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Subject: | Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
All,
I have a Digiflight 100 Autopilot supplied by Trutrak Flight Systems.
On listening to a radio interview with Dennis Vories on
www.kitplanes.com/Redirect/radio/2012303.asp
I note that Dennis installed the servo for his Digitrak through the Port
side spar opening, and mounted it to the bulkhead directly behind the
seat. He says it is easy to retrofit on an existing aircraft (Europa of
course)
The interview also states that photos of his installation were to be
placed on Trutraks web site but unfortunately this has never eventuated.
Enquires to Trutrak have revealed the CD with the photos was corrupt.
Is anybody on the list familiar with this installation and if so, do you
know of any photos that might be available of same? OR does anybody
know of someone else who has done the same sort of installation who
might be able to furnish a few photos?
I am familiar with two methods of putting the servo under the seat and I
may yet have to do it this way but my preferred choice at this time is
as described above.
BTW, anybody unfamiliar with the Dennis Vories interview would more than
likely enjoy it. You have to wade through a bit of crap at the
beginning but once the actual interview commences, it is quite
interesting. It was recorded some time ago now but is still worth
hearing.
Regards
Kingsley
Mono Classic 281 in Oz
Message 2
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--> Europa-List message posted by:
Subject: Torque settings for Warp Drive prop
Hi
I have misplaced the document that came with the Warp drive ground
adjustable prop, this leads me to ask the forum two questions.
1, Where the H**l have I put the piece of paper from Warp Drive ???
or more likely to get a useful response ,
2, What are the torque settings for the prop bolts ? I have a standard 912
Classic with the standard Warp Drive ground adjustable prop ??
Many thanks in expectation
Tim Houlihan G-BZTH
Message 3
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Subject: | Resin Pump for sale |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Harrison" <naharrison@manx.net>
Dear All,
Prior to the problems with EMIL, I tooled up ready for the build, and
splashed out on a good resin pump. Due to a change in plan, I no longer need
this and wonder whether anyone in UK would like to buy it. It is a Glenmarc
Portionator MBT-JR from the USA. It has a variable ratio facility, stainless
steel reservoirs and is unused (new). The cost to me was $439.00 + freight
and VAT in UK.. OK so I'm mad, but accuracy and ease of use were paramount,
and the "Europa" resin pump was not available for "technical" reasons.
Sensible offers would be entertained, but purchaser to pay the freight. I
also have a set of 'iBAL 1200' digital electronic scales (the resin pump
took forever to obtain, so I'd planned to start with the scales) and a
full-face non-powered James North Respirator (49.63 + VAT) with A2-P3
filters x 2 (5.72 each + VAT).
Please contact me off list. Not for archiving.
Regards
Nigel Harrison
Isle of Man
****************************************************************
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Message 4
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Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Davidghillam@aol.com
Tim,
I have the same set-up as you (912+GA Warp Drive).
My Warp Drive leaflet gives the following:
Torque 1/4" bolts to 100 to 120 inch pounds or 9 to 10 foot lbs
Torque 3/8" bolts to 35 foot pounds
Torque 8mm or 5/16" bolts to 175 inch pounds or 14.5 ft lbs
I think the 1/4" and 5/16" specs are relevant to our situation.
Hope this helps. Phone me if your need more info. from the leaflet.
David
01666 890 390
G-SHSH
Message 5
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Subject: | push rods for the doors |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
--> Europa-List message posted by: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
Just wondering, has anybody come up with a clever way to make the 4 mm slots in
the 10 mm bars for the door latch pushrods? Hand filing, as i am making the first
one now seems to be a lot of filing. Maybe the most clever way to do it is
find an crc milling shop eh?
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
Message 6
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Subject: | Thank you for your email |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Dan Viet Newspaper" <info@danviet.com.au>
Thank you,
We have received your email.
It will be attended to as soon as we possibly can.
Have a nice day!
Cam on ban,
Chung toi da nhan duoc email cua ban.
Chung toi se luu y trong thoi gian som nhat.
Chuc ban mot ngay vui ve.
Tuan bao Dan Viet.
(This is an auto reply message)
Message 7
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Subject: | push rods for the doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
Yep, I gave mine to a friend who has a milling machine at work. He said
it only took a few minutes...
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of josok
Subject: Europa-List: push rods for the doors
--> Europa-List message posted by: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
Just wondering, has anybody come up with a clever way to make the 4 mm
slots in the 10 mm bars for the door latch pushrods? Hand filing, as i
am making the first one now seems to be a lot of filing. Maybe the most
clever way to do it is find an crc milling shop eh?
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
==
==
==
==
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Dennis Lowe <DennisLowe@bluewatertechnology.co.uk>
Anyone with a small milling machine or centre lathe would be able to do
it for you.
I would try the local model making fraternity.
regards
Dennis Lowe
On 13 Oct 2004, at 16:34, josok wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
>
> Just wondering, has anybody come up with a clever way to make the 4 mm
> slots in the 10 mm bars for the door latch pushrods? Hand filing, as i
> am making the first one now seems to be a lot of filing. Maybe the
> most clever way to do it is find an crc milling shop eh?
> ----------------
> Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: NevEyre@aol.com
Easy way to cut the slots is to mount 3 blades, side by side. in a hacksaw
frame.
Cheers,
Nev.
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "simon miles" <simon.miles@skynet.be>
> Easy way to cut the slots is to mount 3 blades, side by side. in a hacksaw
> frame.
> Cheers,
> Nev.
Now you tell me!!!
Simon Miles,
Builder #508,
After nearly three years I have a kit that really looks like an aeroplane.
Many thanks for all your help in the past and good luck for the future.
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: RK Hallett III <n100rh@sbcglobal.net>
Nev,
You are one smart cookie ;) Thanks I'll do that.
Ralph
Wondering what goes in front of the firewall to hold the nose down ;)
NevEyre@aol.com wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: NevEyre@aol.com
>
>Easy way to cut the slots is to mount 3 blades, side by side. in a hacksaw
>frame.
>Cheers,
>Nev.
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Nev
> Easy way to cut the slots is to mount 3 blades, side by side. in a hacksaw
> frame.
The whole world loves a smart arse!
Humble Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Surprised to hear that there would be space to do that.
I mounted mine in the 'tunnel' on the back of the ply hardpoint provided for
the fuel valve on the Classic (the XS doesn't have this) with linkage to a
horn bolted to the aft end of the aileron torque tube (the one that runs
under the seat). I have drawings (that wouldn't scan very well, having been
reduced in size to comply with PFA's required submission format). Could send
if you really insist.
I don't like the underseat method because of the difficulty in achieving a
robust retrofitted connection of the control horn to the aileron torque
tube.
Duncan Mcf.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst"
<hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
>
> All,
>
> I have a Digiflight 100 Autopilot supplied by Trutrak Flight Systems.
>
> On listening to a radio interview with Dennis Vories on
> www.kitplanes.com/Redirect/radio/2012303.asp
> I note that Dennis installed the servo for his Digitrak through the Port
> side spar opening, and mounted it to the bulkhead directly behind the
> seat. He says it is easy to retrofit on an existing aircraft (Europa of
> course)
>
> The interview also states that photos of his installation were to be
> placed on Trutraks web site but unfortunately this has never eventuated.
> Enquires to Trutrak have revealed the CD with the photos was corrupt.
>
> Is anybody on the list familiar with this installation and if so, do you
> know of any photos that might be available of same? OR does anybody
> know of someone else who has done the same sort of installation who
> might be able to furnish a few photos?
>
> I am familiar with two methods of putting the servo under the seat and I
> may yet have to do it this way but my preferred choice at this time is
> as described above.
>
> BTW, anybody unfamiliar with the Dennis Vories interview would more than
> likely enjoy it. You have to wade through a bit of crap at the
> beginning but once the actual interview commences, it is quite
> interesting. It was recorded some time ago now but is still worth
> hearing.
>
> Regards
>
> Kingsley
> Mono Classic 281 in Oz
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: NevEyre@aol.com
Don't clap.....throw money !!!!!!!!
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
> Don't clap.....throw money !!!!!!!!
Sorry Mate. Keith Wilson had it!!!!
Message 16
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Subject: | Routing fuel hose through the firewall |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "simon miles" <simon.miles@skynet.be>
What is the best way to route the fuel supply and return hoses through the
firewall? I have a 912S engine. To me, some type of bulkhead union for the
Europa supplied hoses would be the best way but I can't find any suitable
fittings. How have others done this?
Best regards,
Simon Miles,
Builder #508
Message 17
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Subject: | Finger Brake Conversion |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Simenauer" <dsimenauer@cox.net>
My kit is a trigear delivered to the original owner sometime in 1999, A101, and
came with the toe brakes. I of course want to convert this to the finger brakes.
Does anyone know of a conversion kit for this and what it entails?
Thanks,
Dave Simenauer
A101
Message 18
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Subject: | Fuel Line Fittings for Flex Hose thru Firewall |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Johnsen,
You need a product called Speedflow. It is made in Australia, but is being
circulated further and further afield these days. You will note a UK
address as well. Expensive, but worth it, and lightweight aluminium. Very
high quality and used extensively in car racing.
Try
http://www.speedflow.com.au/
or
http://www.speedflow.co.uk/
Fittings required are either
Short Bulkhead 831-06
Straight Bulkhead 832-06
45 degree Bulkhead 837-06
90 degree Bulkhead 833-06
Bulkhead Nut 924-06
If you want to put your fuel pressure sender as far up towards the front
you could use a
Bulkhead Tee 834-06
Bulkhead Tee on Run 924-06
Nylon Washers (unsure what you would want these for) 903-06
On the cockpit side of things you now need:
Straight Hose End 401-06
45 degree Hose End 402-06
90 degree Hose End 403-06
These are push on fittings which have barbs for containment. Based on our
fuel system pressures, they will never blow off ! I used a crimp fitting,
a ring with 2 opposing bulbous sections in the circumference that you pinch
tighter with a set of wire cutters. This sounds contradictory to say you
won't blow off the hose and yet I have a secondary method of attachment,
but that is more for "Aviation best practice", to prove I know of it and
think it appropriate in my build. Butt covering really.
I don't think these fittings are ideally suited to the fuel line supplied
by Europa. There is a wide variety of product, but I used Aeroquip FC332
Textile Braid, Low Pressure, Socketless hose at about$10 US per metre. Good
hose. If you make good fittings on each end, the quality of the hose and
remanufacturing them is not such a big deal. This stuff will last a long
time. ACS sell a range, and the 666 series is popular amongst those that
don't know much about the bible :-)
I have a catalogue and if you have further troubles, I'm out here in the ether.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
You'll need a bulkhead fitting with the applicable
They
At 11:32 PM 10/12/2004, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl Pattinson"
><carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
>
>What you have sounds like a standard VDO sender (very similar to the oil
>pressure sender at the front of the engine). You will need to find a female
>coupling that will attach to a pipe connection - so that you can slide and
>secure the standard fuel hose over it . Best place to find is a hydraulic &
>hose supplier alternately I believe the necessary parts can be found in the
>Spruce and Speciality catalog.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Johnsen, Svein K." <Svein.Johnsen@mossww.com>
>To: "Europa-List (E-mail)" <europa-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Europa-List: Fuel pressure sender
>
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Johnsen, Svein K."
><Svein.Johnsen@MossWW.com>
> >
> > I have the Grand Rapids Technologies Super EIS, with the LPS-02 fuel
>pressure sender (912S engine). I am not too familiar with these things, but
>to me it appears as if the sender is designed to be screwed into a block of
>some sort, or into the body of something to measure the pressure inside that
>"something".
> >
> > Anyone with the same pressure sender:
> >
> > - How did you connect it to the fuel system? Branching off from the hose
>between the mechanical pump and the carbs is obvious, but what type of
>connection did you use on the sender?
> > - Where did you install the sender, and what kind of fixture did you use?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Svein
> > A225 - now in Norway
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Ignition problem |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Bob,
Has anyone resolved some of these ignition carby issues on the 912S? I read
about your tight wiring and the way it creates problems and wonder if
anyone has rewired the engine to resolve these issues. Surely the leads
wouldn't cost that much to simply replace and know it would never happen
again. I can't think when I have ever replaced leads in my cars over the
years, but I do know it can happen from time to time. As for the ignition
system, what about an after market electronic ignition system for the
Rotax? Then of course there is the carbies, with the way they go out of
synch all the time. Seems a bit backward to me. Such a good little engine
in so many ways, with this dud componentry strapped to it. I'd be
interested to know what you think, especially as you have quite a lot of
hours up now behind them.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 12:36 AM 10/12/2004, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra@hotmail.com>
>
>Dave,
>
>I had the same problem a few times with my 912S. What happened to mine was
>a rite coming from the ignition module and going into the plug had broken.
>It was right near the connector and in a tightly kinked area.
>
>The pressure on the wire kept the broken ends pushed together so the problem
>was intermittent - showed up as a very rough (very very rough) mag drop -
>cutting out.
>
>I found the problem after removing the ignition module. I solddered the
>wire and all was well. It shoed again a few months later and the wire had
>broken again closed to the plug so I removed the wire from the plug and
>bypassed it with a butt connector - problem solved.
>
>Those Ducati modules use some cheap wire, but the real problem is the way
>they route it with very tight bends - my failures were also at the bends.
>
>It was very difficult to trace - never could find it with a meter, because
>of the broken wire being pushed together.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bob Jacobsen
>N201WH
>
>
> >From: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
> >Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Europa-List: Ignition problem
> >Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2004 21:28:08 -0700
> >
> >--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
> >
> >On my way to the Copperstate fly-in on Friday, I stopped in Bishop to pick
> >up Kevin Klinefelter. We heard a loud, irregular popping noise in our
> >headphones while taxiing to the runway, and the runup showed one rather
> >rough mag. We checked the plugs and wires, finding no obvious problem with
> >the wires, but the four plugs in the front cylinders were all very black,
> >though they had only a few hours on them. (The rear plugs were all fine.)
> >All plugs were replaced, and everything seemed smooth, including a standard
> >runup. (During the troubleshooting, the engine had gone from very hot to
> >very cool, with the cowls removed.) The popping noise began again on
> >takeoff, so we returned to Bishop, and I dropped off Kevin. With poor
> >weather in the forecast for the next day, I headed for home (180nm across
> >the 13000-foot peaks of the Sierra). After a couple of episodes of very
> >loud popping during the climb, everything quieted down again, so I
> >continued
> >on up to 15500 feet (912S/Airmaster power), crossed the mountains, and made
> >it home without further incident.
> >
> >There are four ignition coils on the 912/914 engines, with each coil firing
> >two cylinders (one live, one with valves open) at once. I measured the
> >resistance between the pair of plug wires from each coil, and found 17K
> >between the top plugs, and open circuits between the bottom plug pairs.
> >The
> >suspect coil (based on the rough mag and the black plugs in the front
> >cylinders) is the forward coil on the port side, which fires the bottom
> >front plugs. It is nearly impossible to see anything in the tangle of
> >wires
> >and hoses in this area, so I tried to remove the coil. After much
> >struggle,
> >I got most of the way to the coil, but determined that it would be
> >necessary
> >to either remove the engine from the ring mount, or remove the starboard
> >side intake manifold to get the coil out. Access to many parts of the
> >engine is difficult, but this is ridiculous.
> >
> >Each plug wire is sheathed in a rubber sleeve, which covers the "tower"
> >where the wire enters the spark coil. Two of these sleeves are broken at
> >the coil end. Does anyone know how to remove the spark plug connectors
> >from
> >the wires, or the wires from the coils? At least one of these must be
> >necessary, in order to get the wires through the sleeves, and also through
> >various other sleeves and holes. I suspect that the connectors may
> >unscrew,
> >but I'd hate to damage one by trying the wrong thing. The coils come with
> >wires attached (at $280 each), but the wires and sleeves are also listed as
> >separate parts. It seems likely that my problem is a wire that is sparking
> >to the engine, or possibly sparking across a break in the coductor, but I
> >can't figure out how to remove them for further testing or replacement.
> >
> >If anyone has experience troubleshooting or repairing the Rotax ignition
> >coil assemblies, I'd certainly appreciate any advice.
> >
> >Dave DeFord
> >N135TD
> >
> >
>
>On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
>get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi All,
I started cutting slots in the push rods and decided there must be an easier
way. I put a couple of flats on the push rods and riveted on some cheek
plates. It was quick to do and much stronger.
Take a look at the photo's under November 2001 Sunday 11 on my WEB site
http://europa363.versadev.com/
Paul
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm@stephenscott.com>
My newly acquired XS doesn't have a cabin heater. For those of you not
flying in a non-tropical environment, what are us doing to provide heat for
the cabin?
Steve Crimm
A058
N15JN
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Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
> My newly acquired XS doesn't have a cabin heater. For those of you not
> flying in a non-tropical environment, what are us doing to provide heat for
> the cabin?
Steve Hi!
I'll send you some pictures of what I've done. It's a Trigear but could be
adapted with rerouting to Mono.
Regards
Gerry
Message 23
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Subject: | Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
I said > > I note that Dennis installed the servo for his Digitrak
through the Port
> side spar opening, and mounted it to the bulkhead directly behind the
> seat.
Duncan McF responded >>Surprised to hear that there would be space to do
that.
Duncan,
Exactly, that is why I am trying to find out but does not look like I am
going to <sigh>
Not only does Vories say it fitted, it was *easy* !!
Kingsley
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