Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:22 AM - Re: Wingtip lighting covers (Dan Bish)
2. 12:48 PM - W18 installation (Andrew Sarangan)
3. 02:12 PM - Re: W18 installation (Kevin Klinefelter)
4. 02:16 PM - Re: W18 installation (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
5. 04:52 PM - Re: Wingtip lighting covers (Fred R. Klein)
6. 07:13 PM - Re: W18 installation (N55XS)
7. 10:38 PM - Ignition problem (David DeFord)
8. 11:28 PM - Rudder Pedal bearing loads (tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wingtip lighting covers |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Dan Bish" <N914RB@earthlink.net>
Hi Fred,
I'll want a set if I don't get those that are available from Dean. Looks
like he has a buyer but maybe not. I'll let you know as soon as I know
something. How much are they by the way?
I wanted some info on the brand and type of light you're planning for the
rear position/strobe light if you don't mind.
Thanks and happy building!
Dan
Kit A144 - N914RB
Tucson, AZ
Mono, 914, short wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred R. Klein
Subject: Europa-List: Wingtip lighting covers
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
Hi All,
I've succeeded in vacuum forming polycarbonate wingtip lighting covers
suitable for those nifty combo landing light, strobe, and LED position
lights made by CreativAir. I will be using them in conjunction with a rudder
mounted rear position/strobe light.
The covers replace the forward 5.5" portion of the XS fiberglas molded
wingtip.
Of course, they would also serve for other types of lights as well.
If anyone would like a set, feel free to contact me off-list.
Fred
A194
Message 2
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| Subject: | W18 installation |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
I am cutting the slots for the W18 plates in the wings. These will be
used to mount the flaps. The manual says to cut slots for such that the
W18 will butt the rear close-outs. This is the part that is confusing
me. The rear close-out joins the lower surface of the wing, travels
about 1/2" rearwards before curving upwards. Which part of the rear
closeout should the W18 butt against? If the slot only extends as far
as where the rear closeout joins the wing, then the W18 will not be
flush against the curved upward surface of the closeout. I could extend
the slot and make the W18 flush against the curved upward surface, but
being curved, there are many ways to orient the W18 in the slot, and
only one point will be flush against the W18, not the entire surface.
Furthermore, the width of the joggles in the middle two ribs seem to
indicate that the slots should only extend as far as where the closeout
joins the wing. This part of the manual is not clear at all. Am I
sweating the details too much? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Message 3
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| Subject: | W18 installation |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann@gte.net>
Hi Andrew, My manual (oct. 1999) shows in fig.3, the "W18 aligned with
shroud inner surface". Does your manual not that drawing?
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan
Subject: Europa-List: W18 installation
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
I am cutting the slots for the W18 plates in the wings. These will be
used to mount the flaps. The manual says to cut slots for such that the
W18 will butt the rear close-outs. This is the part that is confusing
me. The rear close-out joins the lower surface of the wing, travels
about 1/2" rearwards before curving upwards. Which part of the rear
closeout should the W18 butt against? If the slot only extends as far
as where the rear closeout joins the wing, then the W18 will not be
flush against the curved upward surface of the closeout. I could extend
the slot and make the W18 flush against the curved upward surface, but
being curved, there are many ways to orient the W18 in the slot, and
only one point will be flush against the W18, not the entire surface.
Furthermore, the width of the joggles in the middle two ribs seem to
indicate that the slots should only extend as far as where the closeout
joins the wing. This part of the manual is not clear at all. Am I
sweating the details too much? Any ideas would be appreciated.
---
---
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: W18 installation |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Hi Andrew,
I've attached two pix that show how I did my W-18 installs. If you look at
the exposed side of the W-18 where it comes out the underside of the wing you
will see that lower edge of the W-18 is parallel with the wings underside
surface. I don't have the manual handy so I forget if they call for a specific
distance the W-18 should protrude but you see what the intentions are for the
future of the W-18, so go with that. The other pix shows the inside of the wing
with the W-18 in place.
I hope this helps.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Just about to put the top on but still finding little things to do before
that.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lighting covers |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com>
on 10/31/04 11:16 AM, Dan Bish at N914RB@earthlink.net wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Dan Bish" <N914RB@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi Fred,
>
> I'll want a set if I don't get those that are available from Dean. Looks
> like he has a buyer but maybe not. I'll let you know as soon as I know
> something. How much are they by the way?
>
> I wanted some info on the brand and type of light you're planning for the
> rear position/strobe light if you don't mind.
>
> Thanks and happy building!
>
> Dan
> Kit A144 - N914RB
Hi Dan,
Happy to oblige. Thanks for your interest!
Before I make a "run" of light covers, I want to experiment a bit more re:
material thickness; my first ones were made w/ .090, and I want to try some
at .125 inch polycarbonate.
With regard to probable costs, I've got some sorting out to do as to the
money I've spent on the molding, materials, and some consulting I've paid to
an experienced plastics guy; there will also be some production costs for
access to a really slick thermo-vacuum machine. I freely give my time...the
better part of three weeks...which it took to develop the tooling, but I
hope to recoup my out of pocket costs by selling a few sets of covers to
fellow-Europa builders. I expect to be set up soon to make a 16-set run.
With regard to my rear position/strobe light, I'm grateful to Paul
McCallister for his photos of March 30, 2003 which you can click to from his
website: http://europa363.versadev.com/default.htm. My intention is to make
this sort of install using a Whelan A500A-14 (vertical) which is available
at Van's for $125.00.
I'll put you on my list for the wingtip lighting covers!
Fred
A194
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: W18 installation |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
>
>I am cutting the slots for the W18 plates in the wings. These will be
>used to mount the flaps. The manual says to cut slots for such that the
>W18 will butt the rear close-outs. This is the part that is confusing
>me. The rear close-out joins the lower surface of the wing, travels
>about 1/2" rearwards before curving upwards. Which part of the rear
>closeout should the W18 butt against? If the slot only extends as far
>as where the rear closeout joins the wing, then the W18 will not be
>flush against the curved upward surface of the closeout. I could extend
>the slot and make the W18 flush against the curved upward surface, but
>being curved, there are many ways to orient the W18 in the slot, and
>only one point will be flush against the W18, not the entire surface.
>Furthermore, the width of the joggles in the middle two ribs seem to
>indicate that the slots should only extend as far as where the closeout
>joins the wing. This part of the manual is not clear at all. Am I
>sweating the details too much? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
>
>
>
Andrew,
Follow this link to see where to put the W18s
http://www.rmholsters.com/europa/may8-3.jpg
--
Jeff A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Ignition problem |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
Thanks to all who offered advice about my ignition problem from 3 weeks ago.
The popping noise in the headphones and the rough mag check were the result
of a broken wire on one of the ignition modules, not a high-voltage spark
plug wire. This is the same problem that Bob Jacobsen reported. When the
wire got hot from heat-soaking after engine shutdown, the insulation
softened and expanded, causing the broken wire inside to separate (no
problem when cool). We verified the problem by checking each plug wire with
an inductively-coupled timing light, while it was running roughly on one
ignition. Wiggling the bad wire to the troublesome ignition module caused
an immediate response. This wire could be stretched right at the connector
when hot, since the wire inside was broken.
In troubleshooting the problem, we also discovered that each ignition coil
drives a pair of spark plugs located opposite each other on the engine
(e.g., lower port front and lower starboard front, etc.). The normal
resistance between the plug connectors is about 17,000 Ohms, which is split
about evenly between the resistor in each plug connector and the resistance
through the coil from one wire to the other. Two of the wire pairs showed
open circuits, so we unscrewed the plug connectors, cut off about 6 or 8
mm., coated them with dielectric grease, and reassembled them. This
corrected the resistance readings, but didn't affect operation noticeably.
Still, it is an easy way to check the integrity of the spark plug
connections.
The broken wire made a very sharp 90-degree bend as it left the connector,
which is where it broke. (Another wire is routed similarly, and I won't be
surprised to see it break in the future as well.) We replaced the contact
in the connector, crimping a short wire into it that we routed in a loop for
a 270-degree bend, with the loop supported by cable ties. Even with the
connectors secured as well as possible with plenty of cable ties, they still
receive a rather vicious snap during the starting jolt of the 912S engine.
At least now I have plenty of spare contacts for the connectors.
Dave DeFord
N135TD (flying, 400 hours)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Rudder Pedal bearing loads |
0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
--> Europa-List message posted by: tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au
Gidday,
I have recently installed my rudder pedals and am interested in the amount of friction
of
the bearings. Whilst I haven't thoroughly lubricated them, I believe I have a little
too
much friction. Having said that, I wouldn't be surprised if mine were cut in half
after the
tube holes were bored, so there shape of the hole is no longer circular, but tighter.
So,
I happen to have a Dremel hand tool that is exactly the right size, and I have
opened
them up nominally. I can continue, but like anything, when I have a saw or a file
in my
hand I have finally, after a long time, learnt I need to go a bit slow. Realising
any
system friction will only be cumulative, should I try and work out the friction
before
attaching cables etc to be as close to zero as I can get them? I'd have to say
I
currently need a pound or two of breakaway force, but I haven't attached the spring
hardware yet. Any advice greatly appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
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