Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:53 AM - Re: TP12 drive plates (Duncan McFadyean)
2. 02:11 AM - Re:TP12 Drive Pins- Mod 62 (p-a.austin)
3. 02:47 AM - Re: Cradle for Fuselage (John Cliff)
4. 05:35 AM - Re: WARNING - Cradle for Fuselage (Steve Hagar)
5. 06:40 AM - Re: Tailplane TP12 Drive Plates Becoming Loose (EuropaXSA276@aol.com)
6. 09:32 AM - Re: Take off and landing Distances (nigel charles)
7. 10:06 AM - Re: Take off and landing Distances (Gerry Holland)
8. 10:51 AM - Re: Take off and landing Distances (Gerry Holland)
9. 01:04 PM - Re: Tailplane TP12 Drive Plates Becoming Loose (JR (Bob) Gowing)
10. 01:49 PM - Re: Tailplane TP12 Drive Plates Becoming Loose (Tony Renshaw)
11. 02:36 PM - Re: Cradle for Fuselage (N914RB)
12. 03:02 PM - Tailspring Advice (Tony Renshaw)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: TP12 drive plates |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
More detail please Graham!
This would all have been done through an access hole? How big and what is
the optimum location to be able to achieve the feat?
I've done mine by crawling back down the inside of the fus. But if I had (or
have!) to do it again I would put a second and larger access hole into the
rear fus.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: TP12 drive plates
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton
<graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
>
> At 23:56 12/11/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> >In my naivity, I'm sitting w/ a pair of the 3/8" pins thinking that I
simply
> >would have to upsize the 1/4" holes w/ a simple drill and that would be
> >that.
> >
> >Anyone out there: How have you handled the TP12 mod?
> >
> >Fred
>
> Fred
> drill undersize by about 15 thou, then ream out to slight undersize.
> Measure the pins first and find a metric or letter reamer the size you
> need. Reamer bored about 1/2 thou over it's own size.Pete Churms' pins
were
> exact to size. The reamer size we used is lost in the dark corners of my
> brain ?:-[
> The job needs to be done with the tube firmly clamped to a decent machine.
> Don't try it by hand, it will be expensive, cheaper to buy a drill stand!
> BTW it took about 1 1/2 hours to get the tubes out of the completed
> fuselage, much longer to get them back! We used a Dremel cut off wheel to
> get the split pins out. No body had to crawl down the hell hole.
> Graham
>
>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re:TP12 Drive Pins- Mod 62 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "p-a.austin" <p-a.austin@xtra.co.nz>
I done the mod in situ prior to the top half of the fuselage being
installed.
Using a 9.5mm drill bit which my callipers showed was just a "fraction"
smaller than a 3/8" bit that was called for in the mod instructions, I
filled the flutes of the 9.5mm bit with Redux, when set, placed in Drill and
sanded smooth, level with the edges of the flutes, this stopping the bit
from elongating the leading hole when drilling through the back hole of the
Torque tube, I then redrilled the leading (fwd) holes with the 3/8" bit
*carefully*, my thinking behind this was should any minute amount of metal
be shaved off the pins going through the first hole will be more than made
up for by the smaller rear hole, it did, was tight going through the leading
hole and real tight going through the rear.
I would hate for whatever reason trying to get them out, the split pins are
now just for show.
Peter
Builder #198
> >In my naivity, I'm sitting w/ a pair of the 3/8" pins thinking that I
simply
> >would have to upsize the 1/4" holes w/ a simple drill and that would be
> >that.
> >
> >Anyone out there: How have you handled the TP12 mod?
> >
> >Fred
>
> Fred
> drill undersize by about 15 thou, then ream out to slight undersize.
> Measure the pins first and find a metric or letter reamer the size you
> need. Reamer bored about 1/2 thou over it's own size.Pete Churms' pins
were
> exact to size. The reamer size we used is lost in the dark corners of my
> brain ?:-[
> The job needs to be done with the tube firmly clamped to a decent machine.
> Don't try it by hand, it will be expensive, cheaper to buy a drill stand!
> BTW it took about 1 1/2 hours to get the tubes out of the completed
> fuselage, much longer to get them back! We used a Dremel cut off wheel to
> get the split pins out. No body had to crawl down the hell hole.
> Graham
>
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cradle for Fuselage |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "John Cliff" <mx@crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "David Simenauer" <dsimenauer@cox.net>
>
> I was wondering what suggestions and recommendations are out there for
building a cradle for the fuselage. Other than a trial and error method I can't
think of a way to copy the curvature of the bottom of the fuselage.
One simple way I heard of was to get some soft, small-bore copper tubing and
conform it to the bottom of the fuselage at the desired station. Then remove to
the sheet of MDF or whatever you are using and trace the shape onto it (not
forgetting to add half an inch or so for the thickness of the pipe insulation
you will want to slip over the edge of the sheet former to spread the load, take
out minor discrepancies and prevent creasing the fuselage moulding)
John Cliff
#0259
.
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Message 4
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| Subject: | WARNING - Cradle for Fuselage |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
Ferg:
I just considered it a given that there would be some irregularities where
the fuse. sat on the saddles. Those ripples just got filled in with the
rest and the various holes during finishing. Speaking of finishing. I
just about got the fuselage smoother than a baby's butt. Three coats of
smooth prime rolled on, then just about all sanded off, some super fill,
two coats of thinned smooth prime sprayed on, some 500 grit sanding. Found
2 small blemishes, a tad of superfill. Next step spray on one more coat.
then use some black guide coat. Sand, then last coat.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Fergus Kyle <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 11/13/2004 8:21:16 PM
> Subject: Europa-List: WARNING - Cradle for Fuselage
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
> Cheers,
> A word of warning :
> I am taking my time, I admit, and left the fuselage cradled for over a
year.
> I had made a collapsible cradle and the forms were cut from 1/2inch
plywood.
> When it came time to lift the fuse out, I found indentations wherever the
> fuselage sat - and have had to fill same in prep for painting.
> Don't leave the fuse in for long before checking for dents.
> Ferg
> A064
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cradle for Fuselage
>
>
fuselage
> Cut
the
> <dsimenauer@cox.net>
method I
fuselage.
>
>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane TP12 Drive Plates Becoming Loose |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA276@aol.com
Silly question...
What size are the NEW drive pins and what size were the OLD drive pins? I'm
wondering if this mod was incorporated at the factory on my kit.
Mucho Thanks
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
See my build photos at:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/BrianS
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Take off and landing Distances |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
Hi Gerry
I have a spreadsheet based on the CAA safety leaflet which I have
attached to this e-mail. If you would like to talk through it I will be
around Tuesday and Wednesday.
Regards
Nigel
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Take off and landing Distances |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
> I have a spreadsheet based on the CAA safety leaflet which I have
> attached to this e-mail.
Oh no you haven't!
Regards
Gerry
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Take off and landing Distances |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Nigel Hi!
>
> I have a spreadsheet based on the CAA safety leaflet which I have
> attached to this e-mail. If you would like to talk through it I will be
> around Tuesday and Wednesday.
You need to send it outside of the forum to:
gnholland@onetel.com
Regards
Gerry
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane TP12 Drive Plates Becoming Loose |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Tony
My belief is that the holes for the relevant parts have not been drilled
exactly on the diameters. Hence assembly in other than the original
positions results in at least small slackness. Once begun the slackness
multiplies.........
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Tailplane TP12 Drive Plates Becoming Loose
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw
<tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
>
> Gidday,
> I am wondering if anyone who has done the mod to increase the size of the
> pins that hold on the tailplane drive pin plates, called TP12, have had
any
> problems with the new 3/8" pins and looseness??
>
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney Australia
>
> Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger
> Currently working on Rudder Pedals,
> In but tight so more work to go on them.
> Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
> Lower Fuse in Jig,
> Tail Torque Tube installed with temporary timber dowels.
> Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
> Roof Panel between doors completed.
> Photos at:
> http://forum.okhuijsen.org/TonyR
> Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
> Instrumentation: Garmin 296 Colour GPS beneath an electronic Artificial
> Horizon, one that I can trust for short periods IMC, to get out of a
sticky
> situation
>
>
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane TP12 Drive Plates Becoming Loose |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Brian,
The originals as I understand were 1/4", then an intermediate fix size was
5/16"(a friend downunder has this), and then the most recent change, the
mod, is 3/8". Hope this helps.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
At 01:39 AM 11/15/2004, you wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA276@aol.com
>
>Silly question...
>
>What size are the NEW drive pins and what size were the OLD drive pins? I'm
>wondering if this mod was incorporated at the factory on my kit.
>
>Mucho Thanks
>
>Brian S
>A276 Tri Gear. Texas
>See my build photos at:
>http://forum.okhuijsen.org/BrianS
>
>
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cradle for Fuselage |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N914RB <n914rb@earthlink.net>
Dave,
If you've got the landing gear frame stuck on the front of the canoe, you might
consider using an engine stand or have a stand built. I got a guy at a machine
shop to make one for me but you could take a simple engine stand and mount it
to the frame, prop the tail up on a work table of some sort and you can spin
the fuse around as you need to get to various areas. And there's no problem with
indentations as have been reported with other types of cradles. Mine's come
in handy especially when I'm needing to work on the bottom of the fuse for some
reason. I just give it a spin, lock it in place and go to work. FYI,
Dan
Tucson, AZ
A144 - N914RB
-----Original Message-----
From: David Simenauer <dsimenauer@cox.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Cradle for Fuselage
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Simenauer" <dsimenauer@cox.net>
I was wondering what suggestions and recommendations are out there for building
a cradle for the fuselage. Other than a trial and error method I can't think
of a way to copy the curvature of the bottom of the fuselage.
Thanks
Dave Simenauer
A101
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Tailspring Advice |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
My tailspring has the basically vertical section cut away, to accept a
female fitting for an RV fully castoring tailwheel. I am supposed to attach
it with 2 holes for AN3-12A bolts, 1/2" apart, and am wondering if people
reckon I need a machine shop to make it an interference fit (extra tight
requiring a hammer to tap them home), or whether conventional drilling and
bolting would be OK. For an interference fit I think I'd get the local
machine shop to do it, at quite some expense, but I am happy to do that if
people think it necessary. To get the fully castoring to have the same tail
rise as the old one I have had to extend it about 4", with a female/male
socket extension. I am wondering if it too needs 2 bolts, or whether I
should simply put one bolt only into the spring to extension, the other
into the tailwheel to extension, or whether I should increase it to 2 holes
at each end of the extension. I realise the more holes, the more I weaken
the tailspring too. If redundancy is an issue, well the weakest link is the
upstream single bolt that holds the spring in position in the first place,
albeit it is supported by the sternpost as well. Any assistance would be
much appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger
Currently working on Rudder Pedals,
In but tight so more work to go on them.
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig,
Tail Torque Tube installed with temporary timber dowels.
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Roof Panel between doors completed.
Photos at:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/TonyR
Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
Instrumentation: Garmin 296 Colour GPS beneath an electronic Artificial
Horizon, one that I can trust for short periods IMC, to get out of a sticky
situation
_-=====================================================================
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