Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:02 AM - Re: What's your position on Night and IMC privileges for Permit aircraft in the UK? (Steven Pitt)
2. 06:35 AM - Interior Paint (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
3. 07:49 AM - my trip to Australia (Paul Boulet)
4. 07:52 AM - Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides (EuropaXSA276@aol.com)
5. 08:12 AM - Brake trouble (Sven den Boer)
6. 08:36 AM - Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides (Ronald J. Parigoris)
7. 08:46 AM - Re: Brake trouble (Alan Burrows)
8. 08:58 AM - Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides (EuropaXSA276@aol.com)
9. 10:50 AM - Re: Fuel tank fitting sealing? (JonSmith)
10. 11:06 AM - Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides (NevEyre@aol.com)
11. 11:17 AM - Re: Brake trouble (N55XS)
12. 01:01 PM - Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides (John & Amy Eckel)
13. 01:11 PM - Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides (NevEyre@aol.com)
14. 01:33 PM - Re: Brake trouble (Richard Holder)
15. 02:57 PM - Re: Re: Fuel tank fitting sealing? (Gerry Holland)
16. 04:14 PM - Re: Brake trouble (N55XS)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: What's your position on Night and IMC privileges for |
Permit aircraft in the UK?
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2@ntlworld.com>
Jeremy
I fully support the proposal as I would like to renew my IMC but found it
was not worthwhile in view of cost and reluctance on the part of Air Traffic
Controllers to keep in practice.
I think the night rating would also be appropriate for safety and experience
reasons.
I acknowledge that at this stage you are looking at the Europa being a Night
and IMC platform.
Regards
Steve Pitt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3@msn.com>
Subject: Europa-List: What's your position on Night and IMC privileges for
Permit aircraft in the UK?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3@msn.com>
>
> (Again, apologies to the non-UK folks - another local issue I need to
> consult on.)
>
> Many in the UK Europa community know I'm passionate about wanting
'extended
> privileges' (Night and IMC) in Europas and other suitable Permit aircraft.
> The PFA is looking into the possibility of pushing the CAA for Night and
IMC
> privileges for Permit aircraft in the UK. I've taken an action to find out
> how interested the membership is, and this Forum seems a good place to
> start!
>
> Let's start by understanding what some of the constraints MIGHT be
(nothing
> is decided yet).
>
> 1) Obviously only suitable types are going to be considered. So no
IMC
> work in a Pitts S2. Stability will be a key requirement here.
> 2) Aircraft will have to be suitable equipped - including the right
> instrument and lighting fits.
> 3) Permits allowing extended privileges will likely cost more to
cover
> the extra Engineering work.
> 4) Required inspection and build standards may well be higher.
>
> Given the above, could I please ask PFA members to advise me either on
this
> Forum or privately to EuropaFlyer_3@msn.com as to whether you:
>
> 1) Would be for this proposal
> 2) Would be against this proposal
> 3) Would be neither for nor against this proposal
>
> Thanks and regards,
> Jeremy
> Jeremy Davey
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> PFA EC Member
> "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
is
> possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings with mods underway
> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> 1200 build hours to date
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
In a message dated 11/18/2004 3:02:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
europa-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
> I would like to know what others have done with regard to walls and
> >doors for the interior. I been told by a local Long EZ builder that
> >the proper way to go is with Zolitone. I can only find it being sold
> >by the gallon for $55.00. I don't need a whole gallon. Has anyone used
Hi Jeff,
I did my interior with silver-grey Zolatone and it looks great! No priming is
needed on fiberglass according to the manufacturer. It took a gallon, plus
about a pint to do the entire cockpit and baggage area including the roof,
footwells, overhead console panel, "D" panel and seat pans. I do not intend to
paint my doors with the Zolatone, but rather a matching gloss finish light grey
acrylic enamel since they are handled so often. The thinking here is the gloss
finish will be easier to keep clean of fingerprints and such.
Painting with Zolatone is more akin to splattering than spraying. It's a
messy proposition at best. I used an HVLP spray gun at 35 PSI with a 2.4 mm tip
applying two coats, one fairly heavy and the other fairly light. The first
"cover coat" is sprayed from about 12" - 15" away. The second "speckle coat" is
sprayed from about 24" away in short bursts. The beauty of this stuff covers
minor surface imperfections completely and so you don't need to get too carried
away with the bondo. If you miss a spot or realize a thin spot after you spray
it is easy to blend in an area. Edges like where the CM meets the inner skin of
the fuselage should be floated in with lightweight bondo if you don't want
the edge to show, however. Although mine isn't flying yet I have been in and out
of the cockpit dozens of times working on things in the back (ok sometimes
sitting in it making airplane noises too) and no scuffing is apparent. From what
I've experienced let the Zolatone dry for at least 3-4 days before removing
masking tape or the edges will peel. Also, be sure you get all the mold release
off the interior fuselage and in particular the CM.
You're welcome to come take a look at mine if you want or contact me off list
and I'll send you some pictures.
John Wigney over in the Charlotte area painted his interior with something
from a home improvement store and his looks great too, but I don't recall what
he used. I do remember him saying it was considerably cheaper than Zolatone.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (wet sanding my bottom (fuselage, that is))
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=y7LibrbTr7CH96NilsVn1yH32PH6OiDT4lu1ApeAC7ILj+DcC6xYzZzafdVPpyqdn8PNExE6cVqlQjnc9RbOePI9gfZKr/td3vi0IOCktl8BKq6rcOoFyh0FEpA/UnbF6F8IdLQxc46phSViq/2gobPt7RWec/gOcjgYHJbXt8k=
;
| Subject: | my trip to Australia |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Boulet <possibletodo@yahoo.com>
Hi All;
are there are builders/flyers in Australia? I'll be
in Sydney November 28 for a few days, then renting a
car driving up to Brisbane and eventually to Cairnes.
It'll be me and my two buddies....would love to hook
up with a fellow Europaphile and swap stories and
maybe a beer
Contact me off list.... Possibletodo@yahoo.com
Regards,
Paul Boulet, N914PB, Malibu, California
"in flight testing phase"
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA276@aol.com
A Texas Howdy Gents:
Now that the module is bonded in, it's time to reinforce the CS14 Brackets to
the outer fuselage sides.
Looking at a few photos on other builder sites I have noted that many have
scuff sanded the fuselage sides and completely remove the outer gelcoat layer.
< Note that a few have just scuff sanded the outer gelcoat layer, leaving it
intact>
My manual does not mention anything about completely removing the gelcoat.
I was wondering if the thought is that the gelcoat may release and cause
failure at the bond? Therefore it should be completely removed to have a composite
to composite adhesion?
And if that is true would the same apply to the fire retardant phenolic
coating on the firewall at time of tunnel reinforcement? < The next step in this
chapter.>
Your thoughts on the subject please?
Thanks in advance!
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
See my build photos at:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/BrianS
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Sven den Boer" <svendenboer@quicknet.nl>
All,
Aircraft has been reconfigured by Bob Berube to fingerbrakes in feb. this year.
Now the brakehandles appear to move very `free` around, and no pressure is noticed.
Filling the system with oil from the brakes is almost impossible, even with a lot
of pressure.
Removing master brake cylinders seems to be a hell of a job !
Any tips, troubleshootings or similarities noticed, please let me know.
Sven den Boer
A168
PH-SBR
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello Brian
Best to get rid of all gelcoat. (per a conversation with Andy)
Best to make a composite bond, first layer BID and redux and peel ply, then wait
longer than you care to for a full cure and lay up remaining epoxy Resin. (per
a
conversation with Neville)
I have read in past that the BID/Epoxy alone has a tendency to unbond after a while.
When I did my firewall bonds, I scuffed up till was into glass a bit. A Note here,
if
you use for instance a Dremil and Permagrit type wheel here it works fast and
efficient. problem is if you lay glass over it, the slight irregularities tend
to get
a lot of little air bubbles. Ask me how i know! Anyway subsequent just gave base
a
thin coat of clear, and a thin coat of flox. works perfect! Just from a mechanical
standpoint, not a bad idea to put peel ply, if not only the edges where they are
in
cockpit to keep them from being sharp and just look nicer. If you feel so inclined
you
can put just a tad of flox on the edge to make transition smoother. Could probably
use
Expancel or micro as well.
Ron Parigoris
A-265
Tailwheel Spring front pad went in last night. Fun job if you have proper mental
attitude!
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Hello Sven
I am going through the same exercise myself right now..!
I just purchased a brake bleed kit that I thought was expensive, but
worth it if it works (trying it on Sunday). It works by sucking all the
air out of the brake calliper bleed nipple and pulling fluid down the
system. I will let you know the results.
What I did notice when I stripped down the brakes was that the calliper
on the port side was not "floating" freely when compared to the
starboard side. I have now decided that this must be a 50 hr inspection
item as the pins on which it floats had got rusty and therefore stopped
it working properly. This in turn aided the brake to lock on and stay on
when I applied the levers. So I would strongly suggest everyone checks
this item at least as regularly as I will in future, also it's a good
opportunity to turn the tyres around and get better wear from them. I
have the speed kit fitted so I thought that would have afforded some
protection to the callipers, but apparently not enough.
Alan
Ps your right it was a pain of a job to strip down the master cylinder,
but I thought it a worthwhile job to do as I found the nylon bearings
inside were not a good fit so changed them.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sven den
Boer
Subject: Europa-List: Brake trouble
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Sven den Boer"
--> <svendenboer@quicknet.nl>
All,
Aircraft has been reconfigured by Bob Berube to fingerbrakes in feb.
this year. Now the brakehandles appear to move very `free` around, and
no pressure is noticed. Filling the system with oil from the brakes is
almost impossible, even with a lot of pressure. Removing master brake
cylinders seems to be a hell of a job ! Any tips, troubleshootings or
similarities noticed, please let me know.
Sven den Boer
A168
PH-SBR
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA276@aol.com
Thanks Ron. I had no idea that the first layer should be Redux and BID.
Obviously this is a problem area.
I wonder is the same proceeder should be used on the firewall?
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
See my build photos at:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/BrianS
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Fuel tank fitting sealing? |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
--> Europa-List message posted by: "JonSmith" <jon.smith680@tesco.net>
Hi Gerry,
Many thanks indeed for the info - shall be following it up.
Cheers, Jon
Ps. Bit disappointed really - a BT mAssage would have been far better!!
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides |
--> Europa-List message posted by: NevEyre@aol.com
Hi All, still here and watching ! ! !
Scuff sand with 80 grit paper, best to get into the glass [ just] which will
mean getting most of the gel off.No need to get all of it off, it is Epoxy. DO
NOT GO OVER THIS AGAIN WITH SCOTCHBRITE ! All you are doing is polish the 80
grit scratches to a finnish equivalent to about 600 grit. This will
compromise the bond.
It is my [ not the ''official Europa's] opinion, that any lay up onto Alloy
is best done with Redux. Scuff the Alloy JUST before doing the lay up [to
prevent the alloy oxidising]. Warm a little Redux, so it thins out, and wet out
one
ply of Bid, and Peel ply, and let cure. [1 day ?]
Remove the peel ply, and add any further plies,with Laminating Resin, as per
Manual.
The Phenolic firewall just needs scuffing with 80 grit, get all the gloss of
the moulded side, hit the non moulded side enough to expose the
glass.Laminating Resin is fine for these lay ups.
There has never been a problem with the CS14 bracket coming unbonded, but the
Redux used under the Laminating Resin should, in theory, ''grab'' the Alloy
better.
Playing a hot air gun over the area when wetting the cloth out with Redux
will help it soak into the cloth.
Cheers,
Nev.
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Brake trouble |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
Sven den Boer wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Sven den Boer" <svendenboer@quicknet.nl>
>
>All,
>
>Aircraft has been reconfigured by Bob Berube to fingerbrakes in feb. this year.
>Now the brakehandles appear to move very `free` around, and no pressure is noticed.
>Filling the system with oil from the brakes is almost impossible, even with a
lot of pressure.
>Removing master brake cylinders seems to be a hell of a job !
>Any tips, troubleshootings or similarities noticed, please let me know.
>
>Sven den Boer
>A168
>PH-SBR
>
>
>
>
Sven,
I had mega problems filling and bleeding the system. First, disassemble
the master cylinder and check the the two nylon washers are not binding
in the bore. Mine were, so I sanded the edges, until they moved,
freely. I tried various methods for pushing or pulling the fluid
through the system, to no avail. I'm using ATF. What finally worked
was to fill the reservoir and then use 30# air pressure to push it
through. I stopped the pressure when the reservoir was almost empty, to
refill. It took about three fills to top off the system. Once the
system was dropping ATF out of each caliper, I closed them off and then
had my son open one, as I applied more pressure to the reservoir. When
the bubbles stopped, I did the other side. It was a pain, but it worked
and A055 now has a set of working breaks...
--
Jeff - A055
Almost done with airframe...
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1@comcast.net>
Hello,
Good to hear from you Neville, hope all is well.
I bonded my CS14 brackets the old fashion way with Aeropoxy only.
Glad you had a note that it has not been a problem. This leads me to
another question. When bonding in the ply for the tri-gear legs the manual
says to use Redux and flox to bond the ply (page 29T-5). Is Redux also used
to bond
the fibreglass or is Aeropoxy used as usual?
Thanks,
John Eckel, A230
--- Original Message -----
From: <NevEyre@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides
> --> Europa-List message posted by: NevEyre@aol.com
>
> Hi All, still here and watching ! ! !
> Scuff sand with 80 grit paper, best to get into the glass [ just] which
> will
> mean getting most of the gel off.No need to get all of it off, it is
> Epoxy. DO
> NOT GO OVER THIS AGAIN WITH SCOTCHBRITE ! All you are doing is polish the
> 80
> grit scratches to a finnish equivalent to about 600 grit. This will
> compromise the bond.
> It is my [ not the ''official Europa's] opinion, that any lay up onto
> Alloy
> is best done with Redux. Scuff the Alloy JUST before doing the lay up [to
> prevent the alloy oxidising]. Warm a little Redux, so it thins out, and
> wet out one
> ply of Bid, and Peel ply, and let cure. [1 day ?]
> Remove the peel ply, and add any further plies,with Laminating Resin, as
> per
> Manual.
> The Phenolic firewall just needs scuffing with 80 grit, get all the gloss
> of
> the moulded side, hit the non moulded side enough to expose the
> glass.Laminating Resin is fine for these lay ups.
> There has never been a problem with the CS14 bracket coming unbonded, but
> the
> Redux used under the Laminating Resin should, in theory, ''grab'' the
> Alloy
> better.
> Playing a hot air gun over the area when wetting the cloth out with Redux
> will help it soak into the cloth.
> Cheers,
> Nev.
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bonding CS14 Brackets to Fuselage sides |
--> Europa-List message posted by: NevEyre@aol.com
Hi John,
All is well in deepest Yorkshire [ apart from the bl**dy Yorkshiremen !]
Aeropoxy is fine over fibreglass / wood / steel. It works well over Alloy,
just my personal preference to put Redux over alloy.
Cheers,
Nev.
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Brake trouble |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Holder <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
> Sven,
>
> I had mega problems filling and bleeding the system. First, disassemble
> the master cylinder and check the the two nylon washers are not binding
> in the bore. Mine were, so I sanded the edges, until they moved,
> freely. I tried various methods for pushing or pulling the fluid
> through the system, to no avail. I'm using ATF. What finally worked
> was to fill the reservoir and then use 30# air pressure to push it
> through. I stopped the pressure when the reservoir was almost empty, to
> refill. It took about three fills to top off the system. Once the
> system was dropping ATF out of each caliper, I closed them off and then
> had my son open one, as I applied more pressure to the reservoir. When
> the bubbles stopped, I did the other side. It was a pain, but it worked
> and A055 now has a set of working breaks...
Sorry to say this, but you won't have working brakes for more than a year or
two - or possibly less.
The standard seals in the Jamar twin master cylinder are designed for the
use of automotive brake fluid Dot 3, 4 or 5.1. If you use ATF (or the
mil-spec aviation brake fluid) the seals will deteriorate.
The bad news is that the standard seals in the callipers are designed for
ATF (or mil-spec aviation fluid) and if you use DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 THEY will
deteriorate.
This is why the factory specifies DOT 5 - silicone brake fluid which will
not affect either types of seal.
I have decided to go Automotive - thanks to the help of Ivor Phillips of
this List. I had already messed up (testing) my master cylinder seals with
ATF so he provided me with new seals for the master cylinder, the callipers
and the Matco parking brake valve all to work with Automotive brake fluid -
I will be using DOT 5.1
I admit that at the moment I am using two of the floor based master
cylinders, with the changed seals for tri-gear use, as finger style brakes.
I am used to them, but no way can they be described as easy ! And in fact my
co-builder filled the systems up with Automotive fluid so I expect part of
the sluggishness is due to swelled seals. I will be putting in the Jamar
dual master cylinder at the time of the annual in March. I am researching
and getting everything together, ready !
I will increase the power of the internal spring a little by putting in a
flattened spring washer (maybe 1.5 mm thick) into each bore before the
spring ( which is followed by the piston ... Etc. I will be sure that the
spring washer is nice and clean !
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : rholder@avnet.co.uk
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Fuel tank fitting sealing? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Jon Hi!
Best of luck with your sealing!
> Ps. Bit disappointed really - a BT mAssage would have been far better!!
I'm sure at least half a dozen of your spam mails today can help out..... In
many ways!!
Regards
Gerry
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Brake trouble |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
Richard Holder wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Holder <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
>
>
>
>Sorry to say this, but you won't have working brakes for more than a year or
>two - or possibly less.
>
>The standard seals in the Jamar twin master cylinder are designed for the
>use of automotive brake fluid Dot 3, 4 or 5.1. If you use ATF (or the
>mil-spec aviation brake fluid) the seals will deteriorate.
>
>The bad news is that the standard seals in the callipers are designed for
>ATF (or mil-spec aviation fluid) and if you use DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 THEY will
>deteriorate.
>
>This is why the factory specifies DOT 5 - silicone brake fluid which will
>not affect either types of seal.
>
>I have decided to go Automotive - thanks to the help of Ivor Phillips of
>this List. I had already messed up (testing) my master cylinder seals with
>ATF so he provided me with new seals for the master cylinder, the callipers
>and the Matco parking brake valve all to work with Automotive brake fluid -
>I will be using DOT 5.1
>
>I admit that at the moment I am using two of the floor based master
>cylinders, with the changed seals for tri-gear use, as finger style brakes.
>I am used to them, but no way can they be described as easy ! And in fact my
>co-builder filled the systems up with Automotive fluid so I expect part of
>the sluggishness is due to swelled seals. I will be putting in the Jamar
>dual master cylinder at the time of the annual in March. I am researching
>and getting everything together, ready !
>
>I will increase the power of the internal spring a little by putting in a
>flattened spring washer (maybe 1.5 mm thick) into each bore before the
>spring ( which is followed by the piston ... Etc. I will be sure that the
>spring washer is nice and clean !
>
>Richard
>
>
>
>
Richard,
Do you have specifications for the seals that you used? Or better yet,
manufacturer and part numbers? Thanks,
--
Jeff - A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|