Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:47 AM - Re: bad cold starts (Duncan McFadyean)
2. 02:21 AM - Antenna Coax (Graham Singleton)
3. 07:00 AM - Re: Antenna Coax (Fred Fillinger)
4. 08:07 AM - Re: Proper Bolts for LG03 (rlborger)
5. 10:14 AM - Re: bad cold starts (Pete Lawless)
6. 10:14 AM - Re: bad cold starts (Pete Lawless)
7. 01:52 PM - Re: Proper Bolts for LG03 (SteveD)
8. 01:52 PM - Re: Antenna Coax (SteveD)
9. 04:39 PM - Re: bad cold starts (Jim Brown)
10. 08:09 PM - Re: bad cold starts (David DeFord)
11. 10:00 PM - Re: bad cold starts (R.C.Harrison)
12. 10:04 PM - Re:Wastegate sticking on 914 (Graham Higgins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: bad cold starts |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Then I shouldn't bother to suggest that the chokes themselves are unbalanced
or not operating on one side. OK, you've probably done this but it may be
instructive to find out which exhaust header pipes get hot during this
starting process.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
Subject: Europa-List: bad cold starts
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
>
> When it was new, our 912S started as prescribed by Rotax when cold, i.e.,
> full choke with throttle fully closed. Opening the throttle even slightly
> would kill the engine, whenever the choke was applied. Over time (400
> hours), it began to need just a bit of throttle along with the choke, in
> order to start. Now it runs very roughly on a cold start with full choke,
> and will die after a few seconds of this (if we can stand it) unless the
> throttle is opened more than 1/4 inch. It then runs perfectly smoothly,
> from idle to full throttle, without the choke. Unfortunately, opening the
> throttle this much causes the shaking to become so violent (momentarily,
> until it becomes suddenly smooth) that it typically dislodges the muffler
> from exhaust header pipes. It starts just fine without the choke, once it
> is warm.
>
> Please don't bother to suggest balancing the carburetors, which we have
done
> very precisely (witness the very smooth running without the choke). We
have
> partially disassembled the carburetors and cleaned all of the jets with
carb
> cleaner (though there was no sign of any contamination or blockage). Mag
> drop on both sides is fine, compression is like new, and we have never
> experienced any kickback on starting. We have searched in vain for any
> vacuum leaks, and the float needles seem to be keeping the float bowls
> filled properly.
>
> We feel that we have exhausted all of the reasonable possibilities, and so
> are open to bizarre and unlikely suggestions as well at this point!
>
> Dave DeFord
> N135TD (monowheel XS, 912S, Airmaster)
>
>
Message 2
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
I have read that RG400 is the best cable to use for the transponder. I know
it is probably good to use it for the comm. radio as well but I already have
a small roll of RG58 for use in the comm. side. Is it worth the extra
expense to get RG400 for the radio or is the RG58 adequate? Will the RG400
fit the same BNC connectors as the RG58 fits?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Troy
Eric Jones sells RG142+ which he claims is the best. It is copper coated aluminum,
(that means it's easy to solder and doesn't corrode)
508 764 2705; 508-764-2072; <http://www.perihelionDesign.com>
He also sells copper coated aluminum starter cable, which is lighter than the copper
welding wire normally used. I don't think he stocks #4 size yet, the one
needed for Rotax's (Rotices?,)but I am pleased with the #2 I got for my Lycosaurus.
He told me he would get the #4 in stock if enough people need it. His problem
is minimum ordering quantity.
Graham
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Coax |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton
<graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
> ...
> Eric Jones sells RG142+ which he claims is the best. It is copper
coated aluminum, (that means it's easy to solder and doesn't corrode)
But you don't want green-turning, bare copper shielding in aircraft RF
cable, or you'll need a gas-tight BNC connector. Also,
double-shielded cable (RG142?) poses a problem in finding and making a
correct BNC termination. The link below has good tech papers, by a
supplier of wire and cable to the avioncs industry. They discuss bend
radius, moisture, heat, connectors, plus usual stuff about loss,
reflection, capacitance, delay, etc.. Way overkill in places for VHF
comm, but in relative plain language.
http://www.picwire.com/technical/technicalbody.html
Reg,
Fred F.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Proper Bolts for LG03 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: rlborger <rlborger@mac.com>
Steve,
The bolts provided by Europa are AN5-12A. Needless to say, you can get
them from Aircraft Spruce, Wicks or you local airplane hardware vendor.
I believe the ones with a drilled head are AN5-12AH and they are about
2X the cost of the undrilled.
> Does anyone know where to get proper spec. bolts for holding mono
wheel
> swing arm bearings (LGO3) in place?
> All the manual has is 4 off 5/16 UNC X 2 1/4 bolt head A A \ S \. I
> want to get the proper material and hardness and a pre-drilled head.
> After 10 bucks in cobalt drill bits all I have is a bolt with a 1/16
> drill bit snapped off and fused in the bolt head.
Boy can I relate to that!! I did the same thing. Believe it or not,
no special drills are needed. Neville explained to me that you just
have to drill VERY SLOWLY (Slow drill speed and slow feed speed) with a
bit of oil. It works. Takes time to drill through the first hardened
layer, then it gets easy when you hit the softer inner metal. Don't
speed up that feed!!! If you do, you'll stick the drill bit when it
transitions from the soft metal back to the hardened stuff on the
opposite side. Just go slow and easy. It'll work.
I hope this helps.
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
Message 5
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info>
Hi David
If it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders then it could be sprag
clutch. Have a look in the archive there is lots of stuff about this.
I have just changed my sprag clutch after only 120 hours on a 912 ul.
The problem was instantly cured.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
DeFord
Subject: Europa-List: bad cold starts
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord"
--> <davedeford@comcast.net>
When it was new, our 912S started as prescribed by Rotax when cold,
i.e., full choke with throttle fully closed. Opening the throttle even
slightly would kill the engine, whenever the choke was applied. Over
time (400 hours), it began to need just a bit of throttle along with the
choke, in order to start. Now it runs very roughly on a cold start with
full choke, and will die after a few seconds of this (if we can stand
it) unless the throttle is opened more than 1/4 inch. It then runs
perfectly smoothly, from idle to full throttle, without the choke.
Unfortunately, opening the throttle this much causes the shaking to
become so violent (momentarily, until it becomes suddenly smooth) that
it typically dislodges the muffler from exhaust header pipes. It starts
just fine without the choke, once it is warm.
Please don't bother to suggest balancing the carburetors, which we have
done very precisely (witness the very smooth running without the choke).
We have partially disassembled the carburetors and cleaned all of the
jets with carb cleaner (though there was no sign of any contamination or
blockage). Mag drop on both sides is fine, compression is like new, and
we have never experienced any kickback on starting. We have searched in
vain for any vacuum leaks, and the float needles seem to be keeping the
float bowls filled properly.
We feel that we have exhausted all of the reasonable possibilities, and
so are open to bizarre and unlikely suggestions as well at this point!
Dave DeFord
N135TD (monowheel XS, 912S, Airmaster)
--
--
Message 6
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
DeFord
Subject: Europa-List: bad cold starts
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord"
--> <davedeford@comcast.net>
When it was new, our 912S started as prescribed by Rotax when cold,
i.e., full choke with throttle fully closed. Opening the throttle even
slightly would kill the engine, whenever the choke was applied. Over
time (400 hours), it began to need just a bit of throttle along with the
choke, in order to start. Now it runs very roughly on a cold start with
full choke, and will die after a few seconds of this (if we can stand
it) unless the throttle is opened more than 1/4 inch. It then runs
perfectly smoothly, from idle to full throttle, without the choke.
Unfortunately, opening the throttle this much causes the shaking to
become so violent (momentarily, until it becomes suddenly smooth) that
it typically dislodges the muffler from exhaust header pipes. It starts
just fine without the choke, once it is warm.
Please don't bother to suggest balancing the carburetors, which we have
done very precisely (witness the very smooth running without the choke).
We have partially disassembled the carburetors and cleaned all of the
jets with carb cleaner (though there was no sign of any contamination or
blockage). Mag drop on both sides is fine, compression is like new, and
we have never experienced any kickback on starting. We have searched in
vain for any vacuum leaks, and the float needles seem to be keeping the
float bowls filled properly.
We feel that we have exhausted all of the reasonable possibilities, and
so are open to bizarre and unlikely suggestions as well at this point!
Dave DeFord
N135TD (monowheel XS, 912S, Airmaster)
--
--
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Proper Bolts for LG03 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "SteveD" <Post2Forum@comcast.net>
[quote:5dc2b13265="rlborger at mac.com"]Steve,
The bolts provided by Europa are AN5-12A.[/quote:5dc2b13265]
I miked the bolt and AN5-12A is the same diameter but the thread pitch and count
look different. I don't think AN bolts are UNC thread.
[quote:5dc2b13265="rlborger at mac.com"]Boy can I relate to that!! I did the same
thing. Believe it or not, no special drills are needed. Neville explained
to me that you just have to drill VERY SLOWLY (Slow drill speed and slow feed
speed) with a bit of oil. It works. Takes time to drill through the first
hardened layer, then it gets easy when you hit the softer inner metal. Don't
speed up that feed!!! If you do, you'll stick the drill bit when it transitions
from the soft metal back to the hardened stuff on the opposite side. Just
go slow and easy. It'll work.[/quote:5dc2b13265]
LOL, I got all the other bolts drilled with my last bit. sped the drill up, drilled
them dry, once I got moving, I didn't stop. No pulling the bit out to clear
the cuttings..... Go figure... I tried three times to do it the right way,
but I love a happy ending. :)
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Antenna Coax |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "SteveD" <Post2Forum@comcast.net>
Troy, I have some extra RG400. How long a piece do you need? I should have enough
for you to make it to your transponder.
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: bad cold starts |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Jim Brown <acrojim@cfl.rr.com>
Dave;
You might try looking at both choke cables. Have someone pull out the choke
cable, then look at each carb, to check that each choke arm is going to the
stop. Sometimes one of the choke cables over time, will slip a little. When
this happens, one side of engine will get a choke and the other side only
partial choke or none at all.
Jim Brown
David DeFord wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
>
> When it was new, our 912S started as prescribed by Rotax when cold, i.e.,
> full choke with throttle fully closed. Opening the throttle even slightly
> would kill the engine, whenever the choke was applied. Over time (400
> hours), it began to need just a bit of throttle along with the choke, in
> order to start. Now it runs very roughly on a cold start with full choke,
> and will die after a few seconds of this (if we can stand it) unless the
> throttle is opened more than 1/4 inch. It then runs perfectly smoothly,
> from idle to full throttle, without the choke. Unfortunately, opening the
> throttle this much causes the shaking to become so violent (momentarily,
> until it becomes suddenly smooth) that it typically dislodges the muffler
> from exhaust header pipes. It starts just fine without the choke, once it
> is warm.
>
> Please don't bother to suggest balancing the carburetors, which we have done
> very precisely (witness the very smooth running without the choke). We have
> partially disassembled the carburetors and cleaned all of the jets with carb
> cleaner (though there was no sign of any contamination or blockage). Mag
> drop on both sides is fine, compression is like new, and we have never
> experienced any kickback on starting. We have searched in vain for any
> vacuum leaks, and the float needles seem to be keeping the float bowls
> filled properly.
>
> We feel that we have exhausted all of the reasonable possibilities, and so
> are open to bizarre and unlikely suggestions as well at this point!
>
> Dave DeFord
> N135TD (monowheel XS, 912S, Airmaster)
>
Message 10
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
> If it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders then it could
> be sprag clutch. Have a look in the archive there is lots of
> stuff about this. I have just changed my sprag clutch after
> only 120 hours on a 912 ul. The problem was instantly cured.
>
> Pete
Can a sprag clutch problem cause rough running after the starter is off
(i.e., sprag clutch not disengaging)? I have been ignoring the sprag
clutch/heavy-duty starter discussion, assuming that it referred only to
kickback and other problems while the starter was actively driving the
engine (problems which we haven't experienced).
Thanks to all who have offered suggestions. We have carefully set the
clutch cables so that both chokes hit their limit stops at the same time.
We have also checked the temperatures of the exhaust pipes (both by feeling
and by EGT reading) after a few seconds of rough running, and no significant
difference was found between the port and starboard sides.
Today we tried replacing the fuel in the float bowls with fresh auto gas.
No help.
After a few seconds of rough running, the port side carburetor sometimes
overflows fuel into the air box, probably because the float needle gets
shaken off of its seat. Cylinders 2 and 4 are then quickly flooded, which
can be overcome only by opening the throttle far too much. We'll try
starting with the fuel selector off, to see if we can avoid the flooding.
Dave DeFord
N135TD
Message 11
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
Hi! Dave
Did you try getting the engine turning over mags off before dropping one
on then the next one on?
Bob Harrison
Robt.C.Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
DeFord
Subject: RE: Europa-List: bad cold starts
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord"
<davedeford@comcast.net>
> If it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders then it could
> be sprag clutch. Have a look in the archive there is lots of
> stuff about this. I have just changed my sprag clutch after
> only 120 hours on a 912 ul. The problem was instantly cured.
>
> Pete
Can a sprag clutch problem cause rough running after the starter is off
(i.e., sprag clutch not disengaging)? I have been ignoring the sprag
clutch/heavy-duty starter discussion, assuming that it referred only to
kickback and other problems while the starter was actively driving the
engine (problems which we haven't experienced).
Thanks to all who have offered suggestions. We have carefully set the
clutch cables so that both chokes hit their limit stops at the same
time.
We have also checked the temperatures of the exhaust pipes (both by
feeling
and by EGT reading) after a few seconds of rough running, and no
significant
difference was found between the port and starboard sides.
Today we tried replacing the fuel in the float bowls with fresh auto
gas.
No help.
After a few seconds of rough running, the port side carburetor sometimes
overflows fuel into the air box, probably because the float needle gets
shaken off of its seat. Cylinders 2 and 4 are then quickly flooded,
which
can be overcome only by opening the throttle far too much. We'll try
starting with the fuel selector off, to see if we can avoid the
flooding.
Dave DeFord
N135TD
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re:Wastegate sticking on 914 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Higgins <ghiggins@norex.com.au>
After my prang which I believe was due to overboost from wastegate sticking, I
have been at a loss to understand Rotax thinking. The turbo charger wastegate
default position is closed - ie turbo operating fully unless otherwise
commanded by the electronic control system. If any part of that system fails,
there is risk of overboost, and major engine damage.They advocate warning
lights to show turbo surge, and if overboost is likely, simply recommend
"reduce power to acceptable limits, limit operations (land), and fix the
cause"
My question is why not have some more positive option for the pilot in this
situation than simply warning light(s).
Has anyone considered having a manual over-ride to open the wastegate when
the warning lights indicate overboost is likely? I would have had plenty of
power to fly clear of trouble on 80 hp. and avoided the severe damage to the
aircraft and myself,if I could have simply disabled the turbo, and used the
normally aspirated function of the engine.
It should not be too difficult a task to devise a cable attached to the
servomotor cable outer, so that the wastegate can be forced open if
necessary. I do not know what forces would be required, but it would need to
be greater than the servo motor to be of any benefit.
Has anyone else had similar thoughts, or done any research, or know the force
generated by the servo motor on the wastegate arm??
I would like to have more options to do something about it when overboost is
threatening.
Graham Higgins in Oz.
914, Mono, Airmaster, 98 hrs to prang, rebuilding, but wanting something
better before I fly again.
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: 914 Waste Gate Sticking
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
>
> > Upon departure, at about 1800' agl, the waste gate stuck
>
> > closed, the engine over boosted and snapped the crank.
>
> > John Lawton
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