Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:04 AM - Re: rudder stops (Raimo Toivio)
     2. 08:05 AM - Re: ammeter wiring (Fred Fillinger)
     3. 11:58 AM - pin holes (Paul Stewart)
     4. 12:16 PM - Re: Top On! (Rowland Carson)
     5. 12:37 PM - Re: Top On! (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
     6. 01:31 PM - Re: Through the firewall (Mike Gamble)
     7. 02:12 PM - Re: pin holes (Stephan Cassel)
     8. 03:50 PM - Re: pin holes (Paul Boulet)
     9. 04:18 PM - Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold (Garry)
    10. 04:19 PM - Re: pin holes (N55XS)
    11. 04:29 PM - Looking for a prop (N55XS)
    12. 04:30 PM - Re: pin holes (JEFF ROBERTS)
    13. 06:03 PM - Re: pin holes (SPurpura@aol.com)
    14. 07:28 PM - Re: pin holes (Steve Hagar)
    15. 10:19 PM - Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold (Gerry Holland)
    16. 11:39 PM - Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: rudder stops | 
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
      
      I got yesterday a tip to look for
      Europa News #39 page 14
      and heureka there it was:
      The perfect but human way to check
      rudder travel. I completed it at once
      and it took only 5 minutes to do the job.
      I know accurately my rudder movings,
      they are about symmetrical and am 
      happy enough now. 
      
      I recommed this Andys simple but 
      effective method for everyone.
      
      Raimo
      
      Raimo M W Toivio
      
      OH-XRT #417, 1047 hours so far
      OH-CVK
      OH-BLL
      
      37500  Lempaala
      Finland
      tel + 358 3 3753 777
      fax + 358 3 3753 100
      gsm + 358 40 590 1450
      
      raimo.toivio@rwm.fi
      www.rwm.fi
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "karelvranken" <karelvranken@hotmail.com>
      Subject: Re: Europa-List: rudder stops
      
      
      > --> Europa-List message posted by: "karelvranken" <karelvranken@hotmail.com>
      > 
      > Dear Raimo,
      > If you move the rudder an equal 30 out of the center line to both sides,
      > than you have a bigger surface exposed to the airstream at the starboard
      > side. Interesting to calculate and more than that is to consider what effect
      > the slipstream and torque of the propeller have in this matter!
      > Some thoughts for long winterevenings I think.
      > Best greetings,
      > Karel Vranken # 447  F-PKRL  waiting to execute mod 70.
      > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
      > To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
      > Subject: Re: Europa-List: rudder stops
      > 
      > 
      > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
      > >
      > > Hi All!
      > >
      > > I have got plenty of great answers
      > > from almost all the continents - I
      > > thank all of you. Also, now I know
      > > there must be Europas flying equipped
      > > with all sorts of different rudder travels
      > >
      > > I noticed about 50% think rudder travel
      > > should be measured from the centerline
      > > and rest of the Europa-people think it
      > > should measured via line from the hinge-line
      > > to the trailing edge.
      > >
      > > Some people think it is good when "enough".
      > >
      > > I think the rudder movement should be
      > > symmetrical for aircraft centerline and that is
      > > why it is better to imagine the hinge-line is
      > > in center.
      > >
      > > This is an interesting dilemma.
      > > Please some public conversation more!
      > > Neville - tell us the truth!
      > >
      > > Many thanks for all of you,
      > > Raimo
      > >
      > > Raimo M W Toivio
      > >
      > > OH-XRT #417
      > > OH-CVK
      > > OH-BLL
      > >
      > > 37500  Lempaala
      > > Finland
      > > tel + 358 3 3753 777
      > > fax + 358 3 3753 100
      > > gsm + 358 40 590 1450
      > >
      > > raimo.toivio@rwm.fi
      > > www.rwm.fi
      > >
      > > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > > From: "N55XS" <topglock@cox.net>
      > > To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
      > > Subject: Re: Europa-List: rudder stops
      > >
      > >
      > > > --> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
      > > >
      > > > Raimo,
      > > > I don't know about perfect, but here's what I did.  I took a 2x4 and
      > > > stapled a piece of cardboard to it, then drew a line down the center.
      > > > Using a protractor, I drew lines, each side, tangent to the center line,
      > > > at 30 and 32 degrees.  I then positioned the 2x4 under the aft end of
      > > > the fuse, arranging the gizmo so that the board ran the center line of
      > > > the fuse and the line intersections at the rudder hinge area.  Swung the
      > > > rudder each way and added the stops.  Pretty simple, in application...
      > > >
      > > > -- 
      > > > Jeff - A055
      > > > Finishing engine installation
      > > > Waiting on a prop
      > > > Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > -- 
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: ammeter wiring | 
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
      
      > Europa-List message posted by: "Craig Ellison"
      <craig.ellison2@verizon.net>
      >
      > ...The directions with the UMA unit say to place the shunt
      > between the voltage reg and the + side of the battery.
      >
      That will tell you whether the battery is being charged, but some may
      prefer reading only total load on the bus.  However, reading the
      latter will not tell you if the battery is discharging because of too
      much load vs. RPM.  This can be dangerous for IFR at night in
      instrument conditions, so I believe reading current in/out of the
      battery is the common case in production planes.
      
      In reading system load, even for just day VFR, you may never know when
      the day will come the engine won't start at some little airport where
      the facilities are closed.  Although adding a voltmeter will tell us
      something, but that requires interpretation since the voltage reading
      can be a function of battery charge condition at any point in time.
      
      Reg,
      Fred F.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
      
      A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'.  I have small areas 
      which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to 
      get rid of them:
      
      1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
      
      2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
      
      3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again - 
      they are still there
      
      What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is fantastic 
      - only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4 
      months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is 
      looking more inviting than the work shop.  Any suggestions?
      
      Regards
      
      Paul
      
      G-GIDY
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
      
      At 2005-05-09 19:59 -0400 DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
      
      >got the top on successfully.
      >Now I come home, start going through the 300+ Europa Forum emails  and  see
      >this Mod 70 thing pop up! Might I suggest to the powers that be, that if 
      >something like this is in the pipeline, maybe put out an advisory 
      >about the  nature
      >of the  problem while you are still working on it so that people can  adjust
      >their schedule, or not, with this in mind.
      
      Mike - I don't think I have any powers, but I did make a posting 
      about this some time ago:
      
      At 2004-12-17 12:00 +0000 Rowland Carson wrote:
      
      >Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 12:00:07 +0000
      >To: Europa e-mail list <europa-list@matronics.com>
      >From: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
      >Subject: Europa-List: fitting the fuselage top
      >
      >--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowil@clara.net>
      >
      >I've just received the latest copy of the CAA Safety Investigation
      >and Data Department Occurence Listing, which reports the failure of a
      >Europa mass balance arm rod end during taxi.
      >
      >This could have spoiled someone's whole day if it had occurred during flight.
      >
      >I expect there will be some sort of fix recommended (or even
      >mandated) for this.
      >
      >I note some folk recently asking questions like "what should I do
      >before sticking the top on?". If you can afford to wait until
      >whatever fix is announced before you bond the fuselage top on, you
      >might save yourself a lot of uncomfortable wriggling later.
      >
      >regards
      >
      >Rowland
      >--
      >
      >| Rowland Carson  PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
      >| 740 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI  e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
      
      There were several follow-up messages from various people.
      
      Sorry if you didn't notice this at the time.
      
      regards
      
      Rowland
      PS yes, the signature lines are correct - I have only managed 10 
      hours building since then  :-(
      -- 
      | Rowland Carson  PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
      | 750 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI  e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
      
      Rowland,
      
      Mia Culpa. My Bad. My really big Bad! I guess it's my fault that I didn't  
      pickup on the very type of post that I asked for. So I guess I'll just  swallow
      
      my pride and get on to fixing it.
      
      Thanks for the heads up.
      
      Mike
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Through the firewall | 
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble@virgin.net>
      
      Thanks gentlemen. Food for thought and very useful seeing how others meet
      the challenge.
      Mike
      XS 440 mono
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: "Stephan Cassel" <cassel@sensewave.com>
      
      Hi Paul,
      
      When I did the tail plane I used Hibuild primer from SP System +
      expancel, not too much just a small portion and a thin steal squeezer.
      All pin hole was removed in no time. I did this between primer layers. I
      will get rid of
      all pin holes before the first primer layer on flaps/aileron/rudder. 
      
      If this works with superfil I do not know but with the epoxy/expancel
      mixture it works perfect
      
      Hope you get rid of your pin holes. 
      
      Stephan.
      Engine and instrument panel stage
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
      Stewart
      Subject: Europa-List: pin holes
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart
      <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
      
      A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'.  I have small areas
      
      which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to 
      get rid of them:
      
      1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
      
      2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
      
      3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again -
      
      they are still there
      
      What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is fantastic
      
      - only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4 
      months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is 
      looking more inviting than the work shop.  Any suggestions?
      
      Regards
      
      Paul
      
      G-GIDY
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Boulet <possibletodo@yahoo.com>
      
      FWIW I had about 60-70 hours into filling and sanding
      the tailplanes- they still are not perfect.  I used a
      primer after I was satisfied and that filled the
      pinholes.  don't ask me the brand of primer....it was
      one they use at Phoenix Composites.
      Paul Boulet, N914PB
      "Plane in test flight stage"
      --- Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com> wrote:
      > --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart
      > <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
      > 
      > A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'.
      >  I have small areas 
      > which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a
      > variety of ploys to 
      > get rid of them:
      > 
      > 1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still
      > there
      > 
      > 2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they
      > are still there
      > 
      > 3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass
      > and starting again - 
      > they are still there
      > 
      > What is particularly irritating is that most of the
      > surface is fantastic 
      > - only small localised areas are affected. Having
      > now spent about 4 
      > months filling and sanding the tail planes alone,
      > the local asylum is 
      > looking more inviting than the work shop.  Any
      > suggestions?
      > 
      > Regards
      > 
      > Paul
      > 
      > G-GIDY
      > 
      > 
      >
      > browse
      > Subscriptions page,
      > FAQ,
      >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold | 
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: "Garry" <garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
      
      Since I am electronically "challenged", is there any manufacturer out there 
      who makes an auto pilot altitude hold, with a bolt-on, right out of the box 
      product?  I don't want to have to fiddle with reprogramming the software or 
      rewiring the circuit boards.  I take it the EZ-Trim isn't for me?
      
      Garry Stout
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
      Subject: Re: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold
      
      
      > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
      >
      > Matt
      >
      > Yes
      >
      > That is how it works. That is one of the things that made me decide to use
      > it. I did not have to add another device to the elevator system.
      >
      > I have a relay board so the control stick and the EZ Trim operate the 
      > relays
      > and the relays run the motor in the servo.  This is required if you 
      > install
      > the EZ Trim . It's output is made to energies relays.
      >
      > Cliff Shaw
      > 1041 Euclid ave.
      > Edmonds, WA 98020
      > 425 776 5555
      > http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
      >
      > ( I should be doing something rather than sitting her righting Email)
      >
      >> Hello all,
      >>
      >> I already have a nice AutoPilot installed, but does not support Altitude
      >> Hold (well it can for an extra 1000.00$).
      >> If I build one of these EZ trim, would I need to install a new servo?  I
      >> have a trim servo and its LEDs, and switch all working
      >> great.  Can the EZ trim also use the same servo? And use the already
      >> built in switch as a manual override?
      >>
      >> Thanks,
      >>
      >> Matt Carpenter
      >> A138
      >> Amarillo Texas
      >> N138WJ
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
      
      Paul Stewart wrote:
      
      >--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
      >
      >A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'.  I have small areas 
      >which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to 
      >get rid of them:
      >
      >1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
      >
      >2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
      >
      >3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again - 
      >they are still there
      >
      >What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is fantastic 
      >- only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4 
      >months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is 
      >looking more inviting than the work shop.  Any suggestions?
      >
      >Regards
      >
      >Paul
      >
      >G-GIDY
      >
      >  
      >
      
      Paul,
      
      I had much the same turmoil, when priming my wings.  My solution was to 
      dab in a little primer with a toothpick.  Took forever, but did the job...
      
      -- 
      Rocketman - 
      
      RM Holsters: http://www.rmholsters.com
      FAL Gal Concealment Goods: http://www.falgal.com
      Ballistic Review: http://www.ballisticreview.com
      Aircraft Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
      
      
      -- 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Looking for a prop | 
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
      
      Guys and Gals,
      
      I'm currently wrapping up my project and find myself without a prop.  
      I've decided on the Airmaster, but am on a waiting list which may be two 
      months or more.  I know there are other CS props out there, but I've 
      decided on the Airmaster, soooo...  might there be someone, in the US, 
      who has upgraded to a CS, who has an old Warp Drive laying around, 
      gathering dust, that they might be tempted to part with, at a reasonable 
      price.  Thanks in advance...
      
      Do not archive
      
      -- 
      Jeff - A055
      Almost there...
      Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
      
      
      -- 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
      
      Hi Paul,
      I too used the epoxy & expancel that came with the kit. I had a lot of 
      pinholes and used high build primer from PPG called K38. It filled most 
      of them once I blocked sanded the primer down. What ever remaining ones 
      left I hit with some thinly mixed expancel and it finished them off. 
      Another shot of primer then re-sanded with 300 to 400 grit and the 
      primer looks almost as good as a finish. I've been told the better the 
      preparation the less paint used and the better the finished paint will 
      look. All pinholes are gone but not without a lot of effort. Keep at 
      it, you'll be rewarded with a finish that blows the riveted metal plane 
      away.
      Jeff
      A258
      Still waiting for the best painter in Tennessee to get freed up!
      
      
      On May 11, 2005, at 4:11 PM, Stephan Cassel wrote:
      
      > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Stephan Cassel" 
      > <cassel@sensewave.com>
      >
      > Hi Paul,
      >
      > When I did the tail plane I used Hibuild primer from SP System +
      > expancel, not too much just a small portion and a thin steal squeezer.
      > All pin hole was removed in no time. I did this between primer layers. 
      > I
      > will get rid of
      > all pin holes before the first primer layer on flaps/aileron/rudder.
      >
      > If this works with superfil I do not know but with the epoxy/expancel
      > mixture it works perfect
      >
      > Hope you get rid of your pin holes.
      >
      > Stephan.
      > Engine and instrument panel stage
      >
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
      > Stewart
      > To: europa-list@matronics.com
      > Subject: Europa-List: pin holes
      >
      > --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart
      > <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
      >
      > A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'.  I have small 
      > areas
      >
      > which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to
      > get rid of them:
      >
      > 1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
      >
      > 2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
      >
      > 3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again 
      > -
      >
      > they are still there
      >
      > What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is 
      > fantastic
      >
      > - only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4
      > months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is
      > looking more inviting than the work shop.  Any suggestions?
      >
      > Regards
      >
      > Paul
      >
      > G-GIDY
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 13
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: SPurpura@aol.com
      
      IF YOU ARE USING THE SUPERFILL FINISHING SYSTEM,THEN USE THEIR
      SUPERPRIME AS IT WILL FILL THOSE PIN HOLES IF YOU 
      ROLL ON PER INSTRUCTIONS. IT WORKED GREAT FOR ME.
      SAM   N77EU
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 14
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      --> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
      
      I used the smoothe prime over the superfill by rolling then spraying
      thinned smoothe prime over the  sanded base.  The resulting surface
      couldn't be better.
      
      Steve Hagar
      A143
      Mesa, AZ
      
      Steve Hagar
      hagargs@earthlink.net
      
      
      > [Original Message]
      > From: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
      > To: europa-list@matronics.com <europa-list@matronics.com>
      > Date: 5/11/2005 11:56:32 AM
      > Subject: Europa-List: pin holes
      >
      > --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
      >
      > A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'.  I have small areas 
      > which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to 
      > get rid of them:
      >
      > 1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
      >
      > 2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
      >
      > 3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again - 
      > they are still there
      >
      > What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is fantastic 
      > - only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4 
      > months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is 
      > looking more inviting than the work shop.  Any suggestions?
      >
      > Regards
      >
      > Paul
      >
      > G-GIDY
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 15
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| Subject:  | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold | 
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
      
      Garry Hi!
      
      > Since I am electronically "challenged", is there any manufacturer out there
      > who makes an auto pilot altitude hold, with a bolt-on, right out of the box
      > product?
      
      Yes and No. The simplicity of the EZ-TRIM approach is that the little box of
      electronics controls or tries to hold the height through TRIM Circuit after
      pressing a button to hold the altitude at that moment. TruTrak and others
      make a great Altitude hold but it needs a Servo added to Tailplane mechanics
      and costs about $1800.
      
      http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsproducts.html#Altrak
      
      I believe TRIO Systems are also about to start delivery same sort of thing.
      Again about $1800. Try: http://www.trioavionics.com/alt_hold.htm
      
      The EZ-TRIM costs $100 and perspiration!
      
      > I don't want to have to fiddle with reprogramming the software or
      > rewiring the circuit boards.  I take it the EZ-Trim isn't for me?
      
      The EZ-TRIM could be for you if you can get hold of Circuit Board. The
      soldering of components needs care and the hardest problem for me was simply
      eyesight limited by declining years. Magnifying glass a must! As for the
      programming. It's an easy task as the Programme is available and just needs
      uploading to Circuit board through a serial port from a programme running on
      your PC or Mac. Cliff commented that getting it set up correctly needs a
      little effort but we are building a Europa...... that has been challenging a
      few times!
      
      Both the Trio and Trutrak look very capable products and with hindsight and
      a later start on the build I would have chosen one of them as the Servo
      could have been added easier.
      
      Regards
      
      Gerry
      Europa 384 G-FIZY
      Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
      Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
      PSS AoA Fitted.
      
      http://www.g-fizy.com
      Mobile: +44 7808 402404
      WebFax: +44 870 7059985
      gnholland@onetel.com
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 16
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| Subject:  | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold | 
      
      --> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
      
      Good Day All,
      
      So how does one get a hold of an EZ Trim kit? Or schematic?  
      
      Mike Duane  A207
      Redding, California
      XS Conventional Gear
      Top On! Now going forward  by working in the aft portion of the fuselage.
      I am so glad I built that  shelf behind the BB bulkhead.
      
      
      
      
      
      
 
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