Europa-List Digest Archive

Tue 06/14/05


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:49 AM - Re: Where to get epoxy Mixing cups? (JEFF ROBERTS)
     2. 06:32 AM - RFI of Trim Indicator (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
     3. 08:42 AM - Re: Attaching tailwheel fork (Dan Bish)
     4. 09:31 AM - Re: Europa-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 06/13/05 ()
     5. 10:33 AM - Setting wing incidence (William Daniell)
     6. 11:52 AM - Re: Setting wing incidence (Steve Hagar)
     7. 11:56 AM - Re: Setting wing incidence (Stephan Cassel)
     8. 12:52 PM - Europa XS Kit for Sale...maybe (Richard Sementilli)
     9. 12:52 PM - Re: Setting wing incidence (William Daniell)
    10. 12:52 PM - Re: Setting wing incidence (William Daniell)
    11. 01:04 PM - Door Bulge (Jim Butcher)
    12. 02:27 PM - Re: Door Bulge (Terry Seaver (terrys))
    13. 04:09 PM - Re: Door Bulge (Bill Henderson)
    14. 04:27 PM - Re: Where to get epoxy Mixing cups? (Jim Puglise)
    15. 04:59 PM - Re: Where to get epoxy Mixing cups? (N55XS)
    16. 06:16 PM - Re: Door Bulge (KARL HEINDL)
    17. 07:43 PM - Re: Voltage Regulator Problem? (MJKTuck@cs.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:49:50 AM PST US
    From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
    Subject: Re: Where to get epoxy Mixing cups?
    --> Europa-List message posted by: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net> Ron, If your in the states try Publix or Kroger in the cocktail area. I use a small clear plastic cup used for mix drinks at outdoor functions. Jeff A258 On Jun 13, 2005, at 11:36 PM, Ronald J. Parigoris wrote: > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" > <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us> > > Since the start of project, was using supermarket plastic mixing cups. > Smooth > walls and flat bottoms. > > I can't find them anymore. > > any ideas? > > Thx. > Ron Parigoris > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:32:07 AM PST US
    Subject: RFI of Trim Indicator
    From: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
    06/14/2005 09:31:24 AM, Serialize complete at 06/14/2005 09:31:24 AM --> Europa-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu Hi All, I occassionally see this RFI effect as well. Nev may be correct that there is some coupling between the parallel runs of coax and trim cable to the aft of the plane. Then again, most Europas have their vertically oriented COM Antenna just a few cm from the Trim Motor which may be more likely. The basic problem however is that the supplied trim indicator module itself is not protected from VHF transmitters which is a problem, given that the MAC systems are expressly designed for the aviation environment. They need more bypass capacitors in the module and maybe some ferrites on the leads. I'd call Ray Allen to complain, not Europa 2004 Ira N224XS


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:42:37 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Attaching tailwheel fork
    From: "Dan Bish" <DanBish@norwalktucson.com>
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Dan Bish" <DanBish@norwalktucson.com> Thanks Steve, I'll give that a shot. Dan


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:31:54 AM PST US
    From: <p-a.austin@xtra.co.nz>
    Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 06/13/05
    --> Europa-List message posted by: <p-a.austin@xtra.co.nz> > Since the start of project, was using supermarket plastic mixing cups. Smooth > walls and flat bottoms. > > I can't find them anymore. Use beer cans, when empty flush out, run a sharp knife round the middle leave to dry.Instant one shot mixing cup, ok a bit rough edged can clean up with scissors if you want. To get you started get in a batch of your favourite brew and some mates around drinking and telling lies to each other, soon have a ready pile. This approach allows you to argue successfully that you are saving heaps of money by not squandering it on purpose made mixing cups. Cheers.


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:33:40 AM PST US
    From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co>
    Subject: Setting wing incidence
    FILETIME=[662B7140:01C57107] --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co> My next task is to set the wing incidence. Can one do this with the wings still open? - in other words, without the upper surface and the uni reinforcing plies? Any tips/bright ideas as to how to make this task easier... Will Daniell 238 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of p-a.austin@xtra.co.nz Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 06/13/05 --> Europa-List message posted by: <p-a.austin@xtra.co.nz> > Since the start of project, was using supermarket plastic mixing cups. Smooth > walls and flat bottoms. > > I can't find them anymore. Use beer cans, when empty flush out, run a sharp knife round the middle leave to dry.Instant one shot mixing cup, ok a bit rough edged can clean up with scissors if you want. To get you started get in a batch of your favourite brew and some mates around drinking and telling lies to each other, soon have a ready pile. This approach allows you to argue successfully that you are saving heaps of money by not squandering it on purpose made mixing cups. Cheers.


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:52:35 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Setting wing incidence
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net> You should set the wing incidence up with the tops on and the wing in its final configuration. You will be making a template of the top curvature of the wing with a level surface on top to put a digital level on. During this operation my fuselage was on its cradle that had adjustable feet. The fuselage was set so that the window sill was level. More important than any thing else make sure the left and right sides are exactly the same. If after curing one is slightly off make sure the other is set the same or go back and fix the first one. Needless to say don't do them both in one session. Do the first on get it cured and all set and then see what you have. Then do the other side. Steve Hagar A143 Mesa, AZ Steve Hagar hagargs@earthlink.net > [Original Message] > From: William Daniell <wdaniell@etb.net.co> > To: <europa-list@matronics.com> > Date: 6/14/2005 10:32:28 AM > Subject: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co> > > My next task is to set the wing incidence. > > Can one do this with the wings still open? - in other words, without the > upper surface and the uni reinforcing plies? > > Any tips/bright ideas as to how to make this task easier... > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:56:10 AM PST US
    From: "Stephan Cassel" <cassel@sensewave.com>
    Subject: Setting wing incidence
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Stephan Cassel" <cassel@sensewave.com> Hi Will, It sounds risky. I know builders that have done it without the upper skin but then you need to build up exactly same height in order to "simulate" the skin, if you are using the template. I did set the wing incidence before the uni reinforcing plies. The template sits more accurate on the wing without uni. Regards, Stephan #556 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Daniell Subject: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co> My next task is to set the wing incidence. Can one do this with the wings still open? - in other words, without the upper surface and the uni reinforcing plies? Any tips/bright ideas as to how to make this task easier... Will Daniell 238 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of p-a.austin@xtra.co.nz Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 06/13/05 --> Europa-List message posted by: <p-a.austin@xtra.co.nz> > Since the start of project, was using supermarket plastic mixing cups. Smooth > walls and flat bottoms. > > I can't find them anymore. Use beer cans, when empty flush out, run a sharp knife round the middle leave to dry.Instant one shot mixing cup, ok a bit rough edged can clean up with scissors if you want. To get you started get in a batch of your favourite brew and some mates around drinking and telling lies to each other, soon have a ready pile. This approach allows you to argue successfully that you are saving heaps of money by not squandering it on purpose made mixing cups. Cheers.


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:52:17 PM PST US
    From: Richard Sementilli <rsementi@gmail.com>
    Subject: Europa XS Kit for Sale...maybe
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Sementilli <rsementi@gmail.com> This is an exploratory inquiry about the possible sale of my Europa XS Conventional gear kit (N144EW) that I have been building at Flight Crafters in Florida. WOULD ANYONE CARE TO MAKE AN OFFER? The air frame is almost complete, the top half is just about ready to be bonded to the bottom half. Therefore, yes, the cockpit module has been installed. Also installed are: all antennas plus mounts for a tru-trak autopilot, ELT, strobe lights, all airframe wiring, gas tank and sender etc. Basically there is about another 25 hours left to finish the airframe. The wings and tail plane have all had many hours of prep by the previous owner of this kit so the prep for paint will save several hundreds of hours. The kit was converted to conventional gear by Bob Berube at Flight Crafters ($6,200 parts and labor). It also has a firewall forward kit ($3,800) for a 912S engine, plus a speed kit still in the box from Europa. I have also prepared the panel for instruments but have not yet installed them. Therefore, the panel cowl has been cut and sanded; ready for whatever instruments one would desire. With the purchase of the kit, plus all the work done so far, plus all of the parts installed, plus the conversion to a conventional gear, the FWF, speed kit etc., I have honestly spent $53K (with receipts to prove it). Thanks Richard


    Message 9


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    Time: 12:52:17 PM PST US
    From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co>
    Subject: Setting wing incidence
    FILETIME=[0AFA2AF0:01C5711B] --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co> Thanks - Will -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Hagar Subject: RE: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence --> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net> You should set the wing incidence up with the tops on and the wing in its final configuration. You will be making a template of the top curvature of the wing with a level surface on top to put a digital level on. During this operation my fuselage was on its cradle that had adjustable feet. The fuselage was set so that the window sill was level. More important than any thing else make sure the left and right sides are exactly the same. If after curing one is slightly off make sure the other is set the same or go back and fix the first one. Needless to say don't do them both in one session. Do the first on get it cured and all set and then see what you have. Then do the other side. Steve Hagar A143 Mesa, AZ Steve Hagar hagargs@earthlink.net > [Original Message] > From: William Daniell <wdaniell@etb.net.co> > To: <europa-list@matronics.com> > Date: 6/14/2005 10:32:28 AM > Subject: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co> > > My next task is to set the wing incidence. > > Can one do this with the wings still open? - in other words, without the > upper surface and the uni reinforcing plies? > > Any tips/bright ideas as to how to make this task easier... > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:52:17 PM PST US
    From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co>
    Subject: Setting wing incidence
    FILETIME=[169004C0:01C5711B] --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co> Thanks - Will -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephan Cassel Subject: RE: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence --> Europa-List message posted by: "Stephan Cassel" <cassel@sensewave.com> Hi Will, It sounds risky. I know builders that have done it without the upper skin but then you need to build up exactly same height in order to "simulate" the skin, if you are using the template. I did set the wing incidence before the uni reinforcing plies. The template sits more accurate on the wing without uni. Regards, Stephan #556 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Daniell Subject: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co> My next task is to set the wing incidence. Can one do this with the wings still open? - in other words, without the upper surface and the uni reinforcing plies? Any tips/bright ideas as to how to make this task easier... Will Daniell 238 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of p-a.austin@xtra.co.nz Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 06/13/05 --> Europa-List message posted by: <p-a.austin@xtra.co.nz> > Since the start of project, was using supermarket plastic mixing cups. Smooth > walls and flat bottoms. > > I can't find them anymore. Use beer cans, when empty flush out, run a sharp knife round the middle leave to dry.Instant one shot mixing cup, ok a bit rough edged can clean up with scissors if you want. To get you started get in a batch of your favourite brew and some mates around drinking and telling lies to each other, soon have a ready pile. This approach allows you to argue successfully that you are saving heaps of money by not squandering it on purpose made mixing cups. Cheers.


    Message 11


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    Time: 01:04:33 PM PST US
    From: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net>
    Subject: Door Bulge
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net> We've had our doors fitted for several months and very happy with the appearance. Today we fitted the door seal. Now the doors are difficult to close and they bulge at the mid point of the lower edge. Obviously the thickness of the seal is causing the problem. Question is, will the seal eventually deform so the doors fit as the did previously? We really don't want to add third pins etc since the paint is all complete. Thanks Jim & Heather Butcher A185 Working on Annex E checklist


    Message 12


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    Time: 02:27:50 PM PST US
    Subject: Door Bulge
    From: "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys@cisco.com>
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys@cisco.com> Hi Jim. Ours bulged for a while until the door seal took a set. We did add the third latch in the center of the door, but have found it unecessary and never use it anymore. Regards, Terry Seaver A135 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Butcher Subject: Europa-List: Door Bulge --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net> We've had our doors fitted for several months and very happy with the appearance. Today we fitted the door seal. Now the doors are difficult to close and they bulge at the mid point of the lower edge. Obviously the thickness of the seal is causing the problem. Question is, will the seal eventually deform so the doors fit as the did previously? We really don't want to add third pins etc since the paint is all complete. Thanks Jim & Heather Butcher A185 Working on Annex E checklist


    Message 13


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    Time: 04:09:57 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Door Bulge
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net> Jim, I had the same problem. I let the plane sit out in the hot sun (90deg. outside, 120 -130deg. inside) for an hour or two. It's amazing how much better the doors open and close now.... Bill Henderson A010 Europa Classic Monowheel


    Message 14


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    Time: 04:27:13 PM PST US
    From: "Jim Puglise" <jimpuglise@comcast.net>
    Subject: Where to get epoxy Mixing cups?
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Puglise" <jimpuglise@comcast.net> Ron- Try Costco or BJs. Jim Puglise, A283 Office (941) 505-8398 FAX (503) 212-6464 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ronald J. Parigoris Subject: Europa-List: Where to get epoxy Mixing cups? --> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us> Since the start of project, was using supermarket plastic mixing cups. Smooth walls and flat bottoms. I can't find them anymore. any ideas? Thx. Ron Parigoris


    Message 15


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    Time: 04:59:09 PM PST US
    From: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Where to get epoxy Mixing cups?
    --> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net> I bought mine at a local SAM'S club Jeff - waiting for FAA inspection... Ronald J. Parigoris wrote: >--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us> > >Since the start of project, was using supermarket plastic mixing cups. Smooth >walls and flat bottoms. > >I can't find them anymore. > >any ideas? > >Thx. >Ron Parigoris > > > >


    Message 16


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    Time: 06:16:11 PM PST US
    From: "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl@msn.com>
    Subject: Door Bulge
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl@msn.com> Jim, Maybe the heat teatment will work. There was no way I could have closed my doors from the inside. My conclusion was that the seal was too thick and I solved it simply by replacing the lower half of the seal with same type but of smaller diameter. I obtained this from a Company that sells various bits to people who do car restoration. I believe the seal diameter of the original is 10mm, but the best fit is with 8mm. Karl >From: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net> >Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com >To: "europalist" <europa-list@matronics.com> >Subject: Europa-List: Door Bulge >Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2005 16:06:43 -0400 > >--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net> > >We've had our doors fitted for several months and very happy with the >appearance. Today we fitted the door seal. Now the doors are difficult to >close and they bulge at the mid point of the lower edge. Obviously the >thickness of the seal is causing the problem. Question is, will the seal >eventually deform so the doors fit as the did previously? We really don't >want to add third pins etc since the paint is all complete. > >Thanks > >Jim & Heather Butcher A185 >Working on Annex E checklist > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 07:43:11 PM PST US
    From: MJKTuck@cs.com
    Subject: Re: Voltage Regulator Problem?
    --> Europa-List message posted by: MJKTuck@cs.com Thanks for all that responded to my breaker problem despite my rather vague description which wasn't quite right now that I have studied the diagram further. The 5 amp CB is ties to the crowbar and I found a handy 5A breaker on my prebuilt panel labeled ALT FIELD - hence the confusion. Fortunately Bob Nuckols lives not far and we both work for the same company so I gave him a call as it was his crowbar design. His memory is better than mine and remembered we had trouble with this before and he added a capacitor in my panel somewhere which cured it - until I replaced my radio and transponder recently. He suspects my new radio and/or transponder (probably the latter) is causing some spiking and wants to upgrade/modify my crowbar. Unfortunately it is behind the panel so it will be a while before I feel inclined to pull everything out again. He said it would not do any harm to keep resetting it if it settles down after a while. Hopefully that will solve the problem. Regards, Martin Tuck Europa N12MT Wichita, Kansas




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