Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:05 AM - (van eldik)
2. 07:52 AM - MONO CLASSIC G-FLOR (171) MOD 70 (van eldik)
3. 10:32 AM - Re: Torque tube ball bearings? (willie harrison)
4. 10:38 AM - Re: MONO CLASSIC G-FLOR (171) MOD 70 (DvdPar@aol.com)
5. 12:56 PM - Re: Mylar Gap Seals (Duncan McFadyean)
6. 03:37 PM - Tri-gear adjustment, fireproof resin, carbon fiber strips (SteveD)
7. 04:34 PM - Rotax 912S Starting Problems (Terry Seaver (terrys))
8. 05:47 PM - Re: Tri-gear adjustment, fireproof resin, carbon fiber strips (Rob Housman)
9. 07:07 PM - Re: Tri-gear adjustment, fireproof resin, carbon fiber strips (Cliff Shaw)
10. 08:42 PM - Vortex generators forward of ailerons? (Ronald J. Parigoris)
11. 08:43 PM - Help - Arlington via Silverton (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
12. 11:03 PM - Re: Rotax 912S Starting Problems (David DeFord)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: van eldik <ave@tulips7.demon.co.uk>
Message 2
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| Subject: | MONO CLASSIC G-FLOR (171) MOD 70 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: van eldik <ave@tulips7.demon.co.uk>
PS sorry for the previous empty message. (slip of the keyboard)
About to install the new arm. Access at torque tube no problem via
inspection holes and turnbuckles .Being pre - war and 6.1 ft the
exercise around the containment bulkhead, in-spite of extended baggage
bay, is problematic. Any tips/advise from those who have done it?
Thanks Anthony van Eldik
Message 3
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| Subject: | Torque tube ball bearings? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "willie harrison" <willie.harrison@tinyonline.co.uk>
The stiction in my torque tube was caused by binding at the thrust
bearings. Easily rectified by shaving a couple of thou off. I used
normal automotive grease and elevator control has been very smooth
since.
Willie Harrison (G-BZNY)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly@aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Torque tube ball bearings?
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Bob,
What type of grease do you use in that setup? Did it make a big
difference in
the smoothness or ease of movement?
Mike Duane
(On the road to Arlington)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: MONO CLASSIC G-FLOR (171) MOD 70 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DvdPar@aol.com
Hi Anthony,
I had no problem without getting down the back. Snipped the wires with
cutting plyers one strand at a time.
Fitted the Arm after jigging the same dimensions as old arm.
The made a slot allowing 2mm each side for the weight in a piece of tuffnall
1/4" thick the width of the face of the retaining bulkhead. Clamped it in
place from rear insp hole.drilled through pre drilled holes by reaching
through from the front. Scrapped the two awkward littl;e strips of tuffnal from
Europa.
Checked with Europa and my mod is minor and acceptable for my inspector to
approve.
Will photo if this dosent make sense?
Dave Park
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Mylar Gap Seals |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
I've seen them fitted to the ailerons of a UK-registered Europa, but have no
idea how well they performed. Would be interested to find out; perhaps if
you have any useful responses to your message you could forward them on.
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm@stephenscott.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Mylar Gap Seals
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Crimm"
> <steve.crimm@stephenscott.com>
>
> Flight,
>
> I have read several posts concerning Mylar gap seals. But my question is,
> has anyone installed them yet recently? If you have please contact me off
> list.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Tri-gear adjustment, fireproof resin, carbon fiber strips |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "SteveD" <Post2Forum@comcast.net>
1. I am building a motor-glider tri-gear and have been concerned about adjustments
to the tri-gear main gear arms. Once the sockets are molded in (even assuming
I get them at the correct angle) the only way to adjust them if not correct
initially or if perchance I made a rough landing (very small probability) is
to bend the arms - this seems less than optimal. I have designed a way to adjust
the main gear arms using a larger diameter tube bonded to the the X-bracing
and then adjust the socket within this - it would be some work but would give
me the ability to adjust toe-in and toe-out and distance between the wheels.
My questions is - is alignment a real problem - in talking with Clift Shaw (who
I met in a castle in Ireland) - it appears he had a problem wearing out tires
in the first hundred and some hours - so is it worth the effort to be able
to align the main gear arms, given that the load is always different - any help
from those that are flying trigears?
2. I am building the plane with the Hi-Top mod- but don't have the Hi-Top
bottom canoe - so I need to build up the sides (I am making this piece as per the
factory instructions) - and need to build up the firewall also. Any sources
for fireproof resin?
3. I wanted to reinforce some areas using 2" or so strips of carbon fiber - any
sources for finished carbon fiber - I would rather not have to learn how to work
with carbon fiber cloth.
Thanks
Gary Leinberger
Lancaster, Pa.
A237
P.S. This Email has my address because I was upgrading the forum, and I stepped
on Gary's post.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Rotax 912S Starting Problems |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys@cisco.com>
We have a Europa XS monowheel with a Rotax 912S engine, fitted with a
Airmaster prop. The engine and plane have been flying for four years
with about 400 hours. We have had problems with starting for several
years, and have not been able to reliably start the engine since last
October. The engine would either not start at all, or start up in a
very rough mode others have called the 'sub-idle harmonic', which shakes
the engine so bad it risks serious damage to engine and plane. Getting
out of this sub-idle harmonic mode would require too much throttle, in
that when the engine did take off, it would most often shed some part or
another, usually just the exhaust.
We have tried nearly everything we could think of, including many
carb syncs, carb cleaning, new 25 Ahr battery, new heavy duty starter,
installation of ignition kill switch for starting, new plugs, fresh gas,
checking high and low voltage ignition wires various ways, etc.
In a conversation with one of the guys at Lockwood Aviation, he
mentioned that the slipper clutch was now mandatory on all 912S engine
sales (as well as the HD starter), and that he thought it helped greatly
with starting (I'm still not sure why). As our engine was one of the
first 912S to be sold, we were unable to get a slipper clutch with our
engine, although we asked for it. On hearing the slipper clutch might
help, we immediately removed the gearbox from the plane and sent it to
Lockwood for a slipper clutch, getting it back last Wednesday.
On first try, the engine rotated the prop about one revolution and
then came to very sudden stop. We both thought we must have left a
wrench or something in the gearbox, but the prop could be easily rotated
by hand, so the engine was not seized. It turns out this was the
infamous kickback which we had heard about but never experienced before.
On the next attempt, the engine kicked back again, but then continued on
for an otherwise good cold start (with choke). After a warm-up, a warm
start was tried, which was good, the best since building the plane, it
just started right into a very smooth idle.
The next day we called Lockwood again, and was given advice on
starting without kickback. This weekend we flew the plane four times
with both cold and hot starts using the recommended technique, and all
were good starts (no kickback). We FINALLY have a usable plane again.
THANKS Lockwood Aviation.
So, for anyone with a 912S that has no slipper clutch, get one if you
have starting problems. Hell, even if you don't have starting problems
(yet), get it anyway, you also get a smoother idle out of the deal.
regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
BTW: The recommended technique that got rid of the dreaded kickback;
cold start-
1) crack the throttle about 3/16"
2) start cranking the engine with ignition enabled and choke off (in)
3) after starter gets up to speed, pull the choke out.
warm start-
1) crack the throttle about 3/16"
2) disable ignition
3) start cranking the engine
4) when starter is up to speed, enable ignition.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Tri-gear adjustment, fireproof resin, carbon fiber strips |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <robh@hyperion-ef.us>
Shims are used for wheel alignment. See
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/tapershim.php
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of SteveD
Subject: Europa-List: Tri-gear adjustment, fireproof resin, carbon fiber
strips
--> Europa-List message posted by: "SteveD" <Post2Forum@comcast.net>
1. I am building a motor-glider tri-gear and have been concerned about
adjustments to the tri-gear main gear arms. Once the sockets are molded in
(even assuming I get them at the correct angle) the only way to adjust them
if not correct initially or if perchance I made a rough landing (very small
probability) is to bend the arms - this seems less than optimal. I have
designed a way to adjust the main gear arms using a larger diameter tube
bonded to the the X-bracing and then adjust the socket within this - it
would be some work but would give me the ability to adjust toe-in and
toe-out and distance between the wheels. My questions is - is alignment a
real problem - in talking with Clift Shaw (who I met in a castle in
Ireland) - it appears he had a problem wearing out tires in the first
hundred and some hours - so is it worth the effort to be able to align the
main gear arms, given that the load is always different - any help from
those that are flying trigears?
2. I am building the plane with the Hi-Top mod- but don't have the Hi-Top
bottom canoe - so I need to build up the sides (I am making this piece as
per the factory instructions) - and need to build up the firewall also. Any
sources for fireproof resin?
3. I wanted to reinforce some areas using 2" or so strips of carbon fiber -
any sources for finished carbon fiber - I would rather not have to learn how
to work with carbon fiber cloth.
Thanks
Gary Leinberger
Lancaster, Pa.
A237
P.S. This Email has my address because I was upgrading the forum, and I
stepped on Gary's post.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tri-gear adjustment, fireproof resin, carbon fiber strips |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Sorry !!!
They won't work on my Tri gear.
How did you use them?
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message ----- > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob
Housman" <robh@hyperion-ef.us>
>
> Shims are used for wheel alignment. See
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/tapershim.php
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
>
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Vortex generators forward of ailerons? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
There is a article in Kitplanes comparing the Liberty and Unconventional Gear (Tricycle)
Europa.
It shows a picture of the Liberty wing, where it has Vortex Generators ahead of
the
ailerons.
Has anyone fooled with these on a XS short wing?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 11
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| Subject: | Help - Arlington via Silverton |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
I've had a computer problem while on the road and can't get an address of a
builder I was going to visit in Silverton, OR on the way to Arlington. Can you
email me back so we can still get together. I will be through your neck of the
woods the morning of Friday 7/1. Are you available that morning?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, CA
XS Conventional Gear
Message 12
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| Subject: | Rotax 912S Starting Problems |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David DeFord" <davedeford@comcast.net>
North American builders might also like to know that they can get the
slipper clutch installed in their 912S gearboxes for only $570 by Lockwood
Aviation in Florida. When Rotax made the clutch standard in the 912S, they
raised the price of the engine by $570. Kerry (an engine tech. at Lockwood)
talked the US distributor into letting them install the clutch in any 912S
which never had one for the price increment, rather than the $1100 that it
had been before. He says that this is a limited-time offer, so I would
highly recommend getting it done soon, if your 912S does not have the
slipper clutch. Don't worry about the turnaround time: I sent the gearbox
to Lockwood, they got it on Thursday, and I had it back in California on
Tuesday. These guys understand fast service!
Dave DeFord
N135TD
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