Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:22 AM - rear nav light (danny@mcwalterscafe.co.uk)
2. 07:50 AM - Re: rear nav light (Rob Housman)
3. 09:13 AM - Re: rear nav light (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
4. 09:46 AM - Rotating beacon (Paul Boulet)
5. 09:48 AM - Re: rear nav light (N55XS)
6. 09:50 AM - Re: Trouble fitting wings to fuselage (N914RB)
7. 09:50 AM - Re: rear nav light (N55XS)
8. 10:01 AM - New problem.... The Sticky Stick (N914RB)
9. 10:04 AM - Super sized panel for sale (N914RB)
10. 10:45 AM - Re: New problem.... The Sticky Stick (Terry Seaver (terrys))
11. 10:47 AM - Re: rear nav light (Fred Fillinger)
12. 10:49 AM - Re: rear nav light (Fred Fillinger)
13. 12:12 PM - Re: New problem.... The Sticky Stick ()
14. 12:44 PM - Re: *** SPAM *** Re: New problem.... The Sticky Stick (Duncan McFadyean)
15. 01:15 PM - protecting the glass (Paul Stewart)
16. 02:28 PM - Re: Arplast Prop.PV50 (BEBERRY@aol.com)
17. 02:40 PM - Rough Running (BEBERRY@aol.com)
18. 03:35 PM - Re: rear nav light (Paul McAllister)
19. 03:39 PM - Re: protecting the glass (N55XS)
20. 03:42 PM - Re: rear nav light (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
21. 04:38 PM - Re: Rough Running (SPurpura@aol.com)
22. 04:50 PM - Re: protecting the glass (Fred Fillinger)
23. 04:54 PM - Re: rear nav light (N55XS)
24. 04:57 PM - Re: protecting the glass (N55XS)
25. 05:52 PM - Re: Rough Running (Cliff Shaw)
26. 06:55 PM - Re: protecting the glass (Paul McAllister)
27. 07:05 PM - Angle of Attack (Paul McAllister)
28. 08:19 PM - Re: Angle of Attack (Fergus Kyle)
29. 08:47 PM - Re: Rough Running (rparigoris)
30. 10:38 PM - Re: Rough Running (R.C.Harrison)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "danny@mcwalterscafe.co.uk" <danny@mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Hi All,
I have fitted led nav lights in the wing tips, courtesy of Fred
Klein and Creativair, but where have other builders placed the rear
light. I know Cliff Shaw has attached his to the rudder, but my
inspector isn't too happy with this arrangement. has any one else fitted
said light. I understand that Jeremy Davy and Peter Kember have also
fitted nav lights.
All help welcome.
Danny
Message 2
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <robh@hyperion-ef.us>
Hmmm. I chose to put the white light on the rudder partly because that's
where Cessna puts it, but primarily because I did not want the thing
creating more drag by projecting above the fin. I have yet to have the FAA
pass judgment on this location but if there were to be any objection I would
point to all those C-152s, C-172s, etc.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
danny@mcwalterscafe.co.uk
Subject: Europa-List: rear nav light
--> Europa-List message posted by: "danny@mcwalterscafe.co.uk"
<danny@mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Hi All,
I have fitted led nav lights in the wing tips, courtesy of Fred
Klein and Creativair, but where have other builders placed the rear
light. I know Cliff Shaw has attached his to the rudder, but my
inspector isn't too happy with this arrangement. has any one else fitted
said light. I understand that Jeremy Davy and Peter Kember have also
fitted nav lights.
All help welcome.
Danny
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: rear nav light |
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good day All,
Not much off the subject but is a rotating beacon required in the US?
Mike Duane
Redding, CA
XS Conventional Gear
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Boulet <possibletodo@yahoo.com>
No. Not required. Look it up in the FAR's- I'm near certain that's where you'll
find equipment requirements for night and for day
Paul Boulet, N914PB
"in process of converting from mono wheel to tri gear- estimated completion date
January '06"
DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good day All,
Not much off the subject but is a rotating beacon required in the US?
Mike Duane
Redding, CA
XS Conventional Gear
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: rear nav light |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
...or a white light... Yes.
DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
>
>Good day All,
>
>Not much off the subject but is a rotating beacon required in the US?
>
>
>Mike Duane
>Redding, CA
>XS Conventional Gear
>
>
>
>
--
Message 6
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| Subject: | Trouble fitting wings to fuselage |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "N914RB" <n914rb@earthlink.net>
Hi all,
Just wanted to say thanks for all of the help with this problem. I got some
excellent suggestions and it just proves how useful this forum continues to
be for all of us.
I ran into Steve Hagar at Copperstate and he was heading to Tucson
afterwards so was able to stop by on Sunday and help figure it out. After
confirming that the wings would line up outside the fuselage, we tried them
on the plane again. No go, at first. But after some serious shimming up at
the bottom of each wing at the entries, we were finally able to get the pins
to go full in.
It turns out that it's just a process of careful positioning of shims and
guides to make the spars go back to EXACTLY the same place each time. I
still have a lot of work to get everything set just so, but glad to know
they'll go together without having to reset bushings, etc.
Again thanks for all the help and happy building.
Dan
Kit A144 - Tucson, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of N914RB
Subject: Europa-List: Trouble fitting wings to fuselage
--> Europa-List message posted by: "N914RB" <n914rb@earthlink.net>
Hi everybody,
I found a thread in the archives about trouble fitting the wings into the
fuselage but didn't come up with anything that addressed my situation.
The cockpit module is installed and I have the top temporarily on and snug.
Following the instructions to set the wing incidence, I've attempted to
insert the wings and insert the pins to hold everything in place while trial
positioning and fitting the wing root pins.
Outside the fuselage, the wing bushings line up fine, and using the two
large pins supplied, can get them to go through both bushings on each side,
although they are VERY tight.
When installing the wings on the plane, however, it takes quite a bit of
jiggling to get the port pin to go in the hole, then upon inserting the
starboard wing and shoving it in as far as possible, the holes just won't
line up. It'll go through the hole on the port spar, but not the one on the
starboard spar. It's about 1/8" shy of going in enough to line up.
I've reduced material at the end of both spars, removed a bit off the top
and bottom of certain areas of the spar that seemed to be making bad contact
with the fuselage opening, and sanded the openings themselves. My building
buddy, another Europa builder, and I are scratching our heads on this one.
If they go together outside the fuse, they should go together inside it.
Right?
It can't be where the holes are located inside the cockpit module as those
lines up fine with the first spar bushing. We just can't get the starboard
wing to go in enough for the bushings on that spar to line up. Even if we do
get them lined up, it's a bear to get those pins in and out.
Any help is much appreciated.
Dan Bish
Kit A144
Tucson, AZ, USA
Mono, short wing.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: rear nav light |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
Mine is the Whelen combo strobe/white light sitting on top the fin.
Very small, little drag...
Jeff
N55XS 76 hrs...
danny@mcwalterscafe.co.uk wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "danny@mcwalterscafe.co.uk" <danny@mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
>
>Hi All,
> I have fitted led nav lights in the wing tips, courtesy of Fred
>Klein and Creativair, but where have other builders placed the rear
>light. I know Cliff Shaw has attached his to the rudder, but my
>inspector isn't too happy with this arrangement. has any one else fitted
>said light. I understand that Jeremy Davy and Peter Kember have also
>fitted nav lights.
>
>All help welcome.
>
>Danny
>
>
>
>
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | New problem.... The Sticky Stick |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "N914RB" <n914rb@earthlink.net>
Hi all,
Ok, now that I know what I've got to do to make the wings go in, I've come
up with another one. Has anyone out there experienced stiffness in the
left/right movement of their control stick?
I have a kit that had the cockpit already installed when I got it and have
noticed that the left-right movement of the stick is tight. It moves, but
it's not loose and smooth like in most planes I know. Two other Europa
builders have seen it and agree that it's too tight. I removed the linking
rod that connects the two sticks to see if one was tighter than the other,
but they're both the same.
It's going to be a bear to get that column out of there and I just wanted to
see if anyone had any insight into this before I go ripping things apart.
Thoughts anyone?
Thanks,
Dan Bish
Kit A144 - Tucson, AZ
Message 9
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| Subject: | Super sized panel for sale |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "N914RB" <n914rb@earthlink.net>
Hi everyone,
I've got an "double-wide" panel for sale if anyone has any interest. It's
the one that Flightcrafters was custom building and was included in the kit
I bought second hand. You can view it at
http://www.europaowners.org/viewtopic.php?t=2311. Or if the link doesn't
work go to the EuropaOwner's site and look under Looking To Sell. Contact me
off list at n914rb@earthlink.net.
Dan Bish
Kit A144 - Tucson, AZ
Message 10
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| Subject: | New problem.... The Sticky Stick |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys@cisco.com>
Hi Dan,
One thought comes to mind;
The phenolic blocks at the front end of the stick torque tubes can get
cocked to an odd angle, caused by tightening the four phenolic block
fasteners (bolts or nuts, I forget) too tight. Just loosen them a
little and see if that doesn't get rid of the problem. I've seen this on
several planes.
Regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of N914RB
Subject: Europa-List: New problem.... The Sticky Stick
--> Europa-List message posted by: "N914RB" <n914rb@earthlink.net>
Hi all,
Ok, now that I know what I've got to do to make the wings go in, I've
come up with another one. Has anyone out there experienced stiffness in
the left/right movement of their control stick?
I have a kit that had the cockpit already installed when I got it and
have noticed that the left-right movement of the stick is tight. It
moves, but it's not loose and smooth like in most planes I know. Two
other Europa builders have seen it and agree that it's too tight. I
removed the linking rod that connects the two sticks to see if one was
tighter than the other, but they're both the same.
It's going to be a bear to get that column out of there and I just
wanted to see if anyone had any insight into this before I go ripping
things apart.
Thoughts anyone?
Thanks,
Dan Bish
Kit A144 - Tucson, AZ
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: rear nav light |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
> I know Cliff Shaw has attached his to the rudder, but
> my inspector isn't too happy with this arrangement.
> Danny
That is conservative beyond comprehension. We're reducing
rudder effectiveness by a minuscule amount, especially if
properly faired. If the rudder were rendered completely
ineffective, turns are uncoordinated and we just need a rwy
aligned with the wind -- applicable to first flight only.
If down low in trail of the fuselage (mine's there), the
boundary layer is so thick that Learjet's flight test
instrumentation wouldn't know it's there.
Reg,
Fred F.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: rear nav light |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
> I have yet to have the FAA pass judgment on this
> location but if there were to be any objection
> I would point to all those C-152s, C-172s, etc.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
That's beyond the scope of the inspector's instructions from
FAA, as you can design your own plane. I wonder what FAA
thought of Burt Rutan's twin. One engine on the nose, the
other on one of the wings, and wings not of the same size.
:-)
Reg,
Fred F.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: New problem.... The Sticky Stick |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello Dan
"Has anyone out there experienced stiffness in the left/right movement of
their control stick?"
Boy it sounds to me like you are in a good position to deform some body
parts, both Biological and Europical!
First off there is a good chance you or someone else will not walk off
without some pretty sore fingers with blisters on them.
Our XS Mono kit A-265 was purchased with an accelerated CPM. The roll was
just a tad stiff when I got it. I thought it just on edge of usable. When
it sat just bout a year and we were ready to bond in, it became stiffer
beyond what was thought acceptable.
What I believe happened is whoever built lubricated with some grease and
it expanded the tufnal!
I was able to beat with a sledge hammer the aft bushings out (again CPM
was not bonded in place at this time) and use a flap wheel to enlarge a
bit, then lapped a bit. You will not be able to do this since your CPM is
bonded. You can probably lap the rear fit.
I lapped the front bushings while it remained on the tube, but was pushed
forward because the rear bushing was out. It needed more clearance both in
fit of round tube in round tufnal, and equal needed more clearance in fore
aft fit. I will describe what I used that worked well, downside is it is
messy and takes a fair amount of time.
Traditional lapping compounds are usual very hard. Once they embed
themselves into something, they continue to cut, and can be very hard to
get out once you are done. Thus in this instance you don't want to leave
anything hard inside bushings as it will continue to cut forever.
I used a lap sold by McMaster Carr www.mcmaster.com It is a yellow
powder that you mix with cutting oil. I purchased a gallon of Pig Oil to
use. Lard is good for cutting and tapping on most things, really good
stuff to have around. Works good for sawing metals.
The stuff begins as a lap, then turns into a polish, then complete stops
cutting. It is guaranteed to be safe to use inside a engine! The stuff I
used is yellow and I think it was meant for soft materials.
I had the CPM out so was able to angle things and had the front joint
outside of the CPM by a bit. Mess was manageable, and aft did not need
much. You will need to make a dam, cut strategic access holes or something
like that. You need to keep nice and wet with Pig oil and when it stops
cutting add more. Gray slime is the aluminium being cut, keep it cutting.
Tape and cover anything that may get touched, this is a mess you are about
to make no matter how careful you are.
This is a slow process, best just get things set up, then join over a few
friends with draw of free flowing pints so you can get job done before you
can think bout what you are really in for, for too long.
Take a scrap of fiberglass and coat it with pig oil, then see what is
needed to clean it, then bond it and fail it till you have it figured out.
Palmolive green original dish-washing detergent is a good final cleaner,
use the hottest water your hands can take. I was using pure Isopropal
Alcohol as a quick wipe to keep major mess under control.
Good Luck
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: New problem.... The Sticky Stick |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
The problem with tightness of the Tufnol block at the base of the control
stick is that it is also seasonal. After time in damp weather (UK winter)
the Tufnol slowly absorbs water and expands. Dries out again and frees-up in
Summer.
I've found that silicone grease seems to kill this cycle, eventually.
However, care is needed with aerosol silicone grease as the carrier solvent
can also make the Tufnol expand.
Of course, you need to be extremely careful in letting silicone grease
anywhere near a composite a/c, especially before it is constructed, painted
or repaired!
Duncan Mcf.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: *** SPAM *** Re: Europa-List: New problem.... The Sticky Stick
> --> Europa-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> Hello Dan
>
> "Has anyone out there experienced stiffness in the left/right movement of
> their control stick?"
>
> Boy it sounds to me like you are in a good position to deform some body
> parts, both Biological and Europical!
>
> First off there is a good chance you or someone else will not walk off
> without some pretty sore fingers with blisters on them.
>
> Our XS Mono kit A-265 was purchased with an accelerated CPM. The roll was
> just a tad stiff when I got it. I thought it just on edge of usable. When
> it sat just bout a year and we were ready to bond in, it became stiffer
> beyond what was thought acceptable.
>
> What I believe happened is whoever built lubricated with some grease and
> it expanded the tufnal!
>
> I was able to beat with a sledge hammer the aft bushings out (again CPM
> was not bonded in place at this time) and use a flap wheel to enlarge a
> bit, then lapped a bit. You will not be able to do this since your CPM is
> bonded. You can probably lap the rear fit.
>
> I lapped the front bushings while it remained on the tube, but was pushed
> forward because the rear bushing was out. It needed more clearance both in
> fit of round tube in round tufnal, and equal needed more clearance in fore
> aft fit. I will describe what I used that worked well, downside is it is
> messy and takes a fair amount of time.
>
> Traditional lapping compounds are usual very hard. Once they embed
> themselves into something, they continue to cut, and can be very hard to
> get out once you are done. Thus in this instance you don't want to leave
> anything hard inside bushings as it will continue to cut forever.
>
> I used a lap sold by McMaster Carr www.mcmaster.com It is a yellow
> powder that you mix with cutting oil. I purchased a gallon of Pig Oil to
> use. Lard is good for cutting and tapping on most things, really good
> stuff to have around. Works good for sawing metals.
>
> The stuff begins as a lap, then turns into a polish, then complete stops
> cutting. It is guaranteed to be safe to use inside a engine! The stuff I
> used is yellow and I think it was meant for soft materials.
>
> I had the CPM out so was able to angle things and had the front joint
> outside of the CPM by a bit. Mess was manageable, and aft did not need
> much. You will need to make a dam, cut strategic access holes or something
> like that. You need to keep nice and wet with Pig oil and when it stops
> cutting add more. Gray slime is the aluminium being cut, keep it cutting.
> Tape and cover anything that may get touched, this is a mess you are about
> to make no matter how careful you are.
>
> This is a slow process, best just get things set up, then join over a few
> friends with draw of free flowing pints so you can get job done before you
> can think bout what you are really in for, for too long.
>
> Take a scrap of fiberglass and coat it with pig oil, then see what is
> needed to clean it, then bond it and fail it till you have it figured out.
> Palmolive green original dish-washing detergent is a good final cleaner,
> use the hottest water your hands can take. I was using pure Isopropal
> Alcohol as a quick wipe to keep major mess under control.
>
> Good Luck
> Sincerely
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | protecting the glass |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
Not far off bonding in the glass. Anyone got any suggestions for
protecting it afterwards while still working in and around the fuselage
? Wondered if you can get any sort of low tack film such as the stuff
you often get covering LCD displays.
REgards
Paul
G-GIDY
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Arplast Prop.PV50 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: BEBERRY@aol.com
Hi all... having spent an inordinate amount of time fitting the Arplast prop
( which I am still convinced is a neat job) I do believe that the
instructions for mounting and fitting the potentiometer and associated locating
rod are
horribly inadequate.(only a matter of perhaps 1/8th inch each way),
Adjusting the length of the rod to the potentionmeter is almost impossible
as it has to be done with the unit fitted to the engine top casing. In this
position it is impossible to move the plastic arm on the potentiometer spindle,
- despite what the instructions say.
After many hours of trial and error,(mostly error), I arrived at the
obvious solution of making the mounting of the potentiometer have slotted holes
so
that the fixing bolts can be moved until the cockpit readout is correct.
Lord know how others have done this potentially simple but excrutiatingly hit
and miss task and wasted hours if not days (in my case) attempting to do the
virtually impossible.
Maybe my method will be a help to others or perhaps some one has found a
simpler method.
My pot etc is fitted aft of the vacuum pump and these is little or no room
to work in. Without the pump the method as VERY sketchily described in the
notes may be possible. I do not believe that this is the case with the vacuum
pump fitted.
Does anyone with a similar setup have any better ideas?
Patrick
Message 17
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--> Europa-List message posted by: BEBERRY@aol.com
I seem to be having a run of problems lately.
Having done a complete refurbishment of my 914 I have spent some time trying
to get the engine to run smoothly, without success.
After warm up it will run perfectly at above say 4000 rpm and at idling but
in between it is VERY roungh, The whole airframe shakes and it is on 3
cylinders at best.
I have got perfect running at high revs and have got the engine and prop
running spot on at the recommended 5200 static. I have done lengthy runs at high
revs (until CHT's start to complain), in the hope of clearing the problem,
but no luck.
Plugs have been changed for new, carbs thoroughly cleaned + jets etc., and
fuel filters. I have now run out of ideas and would welcome any suggestions
of where to go next.
Patrick
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: rear nav light |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Danny,
I attached mine to the rudder also. This is done on some production
aircraft as well, (Mooney I think) so I can't imagine why your inspector has
a problem with it.
Take a look at http://europa363.versadev.com/ under March 30, 2003
Paul
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: protecting the glass |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
Paul,
When I bonded my glass, I carefully trimmed the rubber coating back an
inch or so, leaving the rest intact. Once bonded, I used the blue
masking tape used by painters, to protect any exposed areas. It is low
tack and works fine. If you have already removed the protective
coating, transfer tape, as used by graphics shops, works well, too...
Jeff - N55XS
76+ hours
Paul Stewart wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
>
>Not far off bonding in the glass. Anyone got any suggestions for
>protecting it afterwards while still working in and around the fuselage
>? Wondered if you can get any sort of low tack film such as the stuff
>you often get covering LCD displays.
>
>REgards
>
>Paul
>
>G-GIDY
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: rear nav light |
--> Europa-List message posted by: jimpuglise@comcast.net
I'm not aware that a rotating beacon is required in the US. I just bought the
Whelen strobes for the wingtips and have checked several web sites and these seem
to be acceptable. They have the white light in the aft end and green/red
in front. Have I missed something?
Jim Puglise, A 283
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS
>
> ...or a white light... Yes.
>
> DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
> >
> >Good day All,
> >
> >Not much off the subject but is a rotating beacon required in the US?
> >
> >
> >Mike Duane
> >Redding, CA
> >XS Conventional Gear
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
I'm not aware that a rotating beacon is required in the US. I just bought the Whelen
strobes for the wingtips and have checked several web sites and these seem
to be acceptable. They have the white light in the aft end and green/red in
front. Have I missed something?
Jim Puglise, A 283
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <TOPGLOCK@COX.NET>
...or a white light... Yes.
DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
-- Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good day All,
Not much off the subject but is a rotating beacon required in the US?
Mike Duane
Redding, CA
XS Conventional Gear
--
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Rough Running |
--> Europa-List message posted by: SPurpura@aol.com
SOUNDS LIKE IT MAY BE RUNNING TOO RICH.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: protecting the glass |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
> Once bonded, I used the blue masking tape used by
> painters, to protect any exposed areas. It is low tack
> and works fine. If you have already removed the
> protective coating, transfer tape, as used by graphics
> shops, works well, too...
>
> Jeff - N55XS
I would be careful with any adhesive tape. Some over a long
period of time may become married to the plastic. I think
Clint Eastwood, in Dirty Harry, has a line which fits
perfectly here! In fact, I have an very old piece of plexi,
but the tape the plastic manufacturer put on won't now come
off.
Reg,
Fred F.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: rear nav light |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
You haven't missed a thing, Jim. My over tired mind simply misfired...
I was hearing rotating beacon and thinking nav lights. Sorry for the
confusion. I'm going to bed... :)
Jeff - N55XS
76+ hours
do not archive
jimpuglise@comcast.net wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: jimpuglise@comcast.net
>
>I'm not aware that a rotating beacon is required in the US. I just bought the
Whelen strobes for the wingtips and have checked several web sites and these
seem to be acceptable. They have the white light in the aft end and green/red
in front. Have I missed something?
>
>Jim Puglise, A 283
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
>
>>--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS
>>
>>...or a white light... Yes.
>>
>>DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
>>>
>>>Good day All,
>>>
>>>Not much off the subject but is a rotating beacon required in the US?
>>>
>>>
>>>Mike Duane
>>>Redding, CA
>>>XS Conventional Gear
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>--
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>I'm not aware that a rotating beacon is required in the US. I just bought the
Whelen strobes for the wingtips and have checked several web sites and these seem
to be acceptable. They have the white light in the aft end and green/red in
front. Have I missed something?
>
>Jim Puglise, A 283
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <TOPGLOCK@COX.NET>
>
> ...or a white light... Yes.
>
> DuaneFamly@aol.com wrote:
>
> -- Europa-List message posted by: DuaneFamly@aol.com
>
> Good day All,
>
> Not much off the subject but is a rotating beacon required in the US?
>
>
> Mike Duane
> Redding, CA
> XS Conventional Gear
>
>
> --
>
>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: protecting the glass |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
Agreed, but the blue tape works fine for a long time. There is also a
vinyl paint mask, used in the graphics industry (That's what I do for a
living), that is good for up to three years...
Jeff - N55XS
76+ hrs
Fred Fillinger wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
>
>
>
>>Once bonded, I used the blue masking tape used by
>>painters, to protect any exposed areas. It is low tack
>>and works fine. If you have already removed the
>>protective coating, transfer tape, as used by graphics
>>shops, works well, too...
>>
>>Jeff - N55XS
>>
>>
>
>I would be careful with any adhesive tape. Some over a long
>period of time may become married to the plastic. I think
>Clint Eastwood, in Dirty Harry, has a line which fits
>perfectly here! In fact, I have an very old piece of plexi,
>but the tape the plastic manufacturer put on won't now come
>off.
>
>Reg,
>Fred F.
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Rough Running |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Patrick
It sounds to me that your problem is the throttle boden cables not being in sink.
The amount they are out of sink will be very small. I checked mine by measuring
the air gap on the carb stop with feeler gauges.
The real test is to get a twin manifold gauge (motorcycle shop)connected to each
intake manifold and read the vacuumed on each side. It should be nearly identical
from idle to full throttle. I will bet it is off my an inch of two of vacume.
I hope this helps.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: BEBERRY@aol.com
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 2:40 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Rough Running
--> Europa-List message posted by: BEBERRY@aol.com
I seem to be having a run of problems lately.
Having done a complete refurbishment of my 914 I have spent some time trying
to get the engine to run smoothly, without success.
After warm up it will run perfectly at above say 4000 rpm and at idling but
in between it is VERY roungh, The whole airframe shakes and it is on 3
cylinders at best.
I have got perfect running at high revs and have got the engine and prop
running spot on at the recommended 5200 static. I have done lengthy runs at
high
revs (until CHT's start to complain), in the hope of clearing the problem,
but no luck.
Plugs have been changed for new, carbs thoroughly cleaned + jets etc., and
fuel filters. I have now run out of ideas and would welcome any suggestions
of where to go next.
Patrick
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: protecting the glass |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Paul,
Spraylat from AC Spruce works fine. Don't leave it on for more than a year,
otherwise it gets difficult to remove.
Paul
N378PJ
Message 27
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi all,
After flying my mono wheel for 340 hours with various C of G's and weights I an
still surprised at how differently the aircraft behaves on landing.
I find that the amount of power needed in the flair can be from very little to
quite a lot if I want to bring it over the numbers at 55 knots with not too much
sink, and although I am getting good at judging the various situations, occasionally
I still get it wrong and I am rewarded with a bounce on landing.
I was wondering if anyone on the forum has an AoA fitted to their Europa, and are
they finding the lift reserve a good indicator to help get that "perfect 10"
on every touch down ? If anyone has some experience I would be interested in
hearing from them.
Thanks,
Paul - N378PJ
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Paul McAllister,
My model is yet not flying, but am banking on a brilliant method
of I believe Graham Clarke (no longer flying). His solution was to add a
last stage to a Dutch-kit "back-up" warning device which utilized
sub-audible tones to reflect the distance to an object (ostensibly when
backing up a vehicle).
Instead of turning on a light (or beeping) when an adjusted
distance remains, the last stage translates the returning signal to a
sliding tone. This tone slides down in frequency from about 5 feet above
ground to about 5 inches - the speed of the slide an indication of the speed
of approach to the surface.
I have installed the original Jim Franz AoA* with last stage
addition and combined it with the audio 'radar' tone so that I can bring the
plane into close approach to ground at the ideal angle of attack to land
accurately. The AoA is no dial (it's no time to be watching a clock) but as
vertical 2inch 'tower' of Leds, changing colour from green (safe) to orange
(critical) to red (Stalled), just as the wheel get near the ground - thus
preventing bounces and assuring fully stalled condition and tailwheel
authority on touchdown. The Led tower is in the instrument coaming in full
view of the landing picture, so I don't have to watch airspeed but can
listen to my height and adjust as I watch the runway with the AoA in sight.
I also think I can safely acquire personal experience which will
reduce dependence on A0A/'radar' approach as time goes on.
details on demand
Ferg A064
PS: My experience is that classic Europa will not permit bounces for fear
of losing rudder authority in a bounce - Go Around is the only answer. I
believe this............
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Angle of Attack
| --> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
<paul.mcallister@qia.net>
|
| Hi all,
|
| After flying my mono wheel for 340 hours with various C of G's and weights
I an still surprised at how differently the aircraft behaves on landing.
|
| I find that the amount of power needed in the flair can be from very
little to quite a lot if I want to bring it over the numbers at 55 knots
with not too much sink, and although I am getting good at judging the
various situations, occasionally I still get it wrong and I am rewarded with
a bounce on landing.
|
| I was wondering if anyone on the forum has an AoA fitted to their Europa,
and are they finding the lift reserve a good indicator to help get that
"perfect 10" on every touch down ? If anyone has some experience I would be
interested in hearing from them.
|
| Thanks,
|
| Paul - N378PJ
|
|
|
|
|
|
Message 29
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| Subject: | RE: Rough Running |
0.64 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
--> Europa-List message posted by: "rparigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello Patric
You said that you recent did a full refurbishment of your 914. Was a major overhaul
done to it?
First off was it running OK before you did refurbishment?
Check that the carb cables are rotating freely at the carb, and as Cliff mentioned
check with a set of gages. you need to disconnect the cross balance tube,
a good place to connect gages.
When you rebuilt carbs, did you replace O rings and careful check diaphragms?
Very careful check that you have all plumbing attached correctly, make sure you
have no leaks.
Check carb attach flanges for tears. If you do not have latest part number, replace
them.
You did clean your air filter?
You do have proper differential fuel pressure? If you have plumbed in parallel
the 2 fuel pumps, try turning 1 pump, if still a problem turn off both pumps on
ground for a while and see if it runs OK. When a carb is getting close to running
out of gas, it will begin to run leaner, thus if you have a rich mixture
problem, you will get a temporary reprieve just before carbs run out of gas.
If it does run OK, look close at needle valves and differential pressure. Fuel
pressure regulator I hear can sometimes give a problem with improper differential
pressure.
Did you look and check that needle valve in carbs are not leaking when running?
Gas dripping out bottom of carbs?
Specific make sure that carb float bowl vent lines are in perfect condition and
connected to the right place.
You absolute have the correct heat range spark plugs installed? And have the jet
needle clip in the correct grove? You need to research the latest 914 main jet
size and correct jet needle positions.
Mechanical condition of Motor OK?? Differential compression test?
Good Luck
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 30
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
Hi! Patrick
I'm not 914 qualified but I'm sure I have noticed folks with this
problem before. If all the 914 experienced guys advice fails then check
out your slipper clutch. Sounds irrelevant but the purpose of it is to
iron out the impulses between the firing strokes and the compression
strokes especially since the ignition timing is so far advanced.
(assuming that the ignition timing is within the specification anyway)
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BEBERRY@aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Rough Running
--> Europa-List message posted by: BEBERRY@aol.com
I seem to be having a run of problems lately.
Having done a complete refurbishment of my 914 I have spent some time
trying
to get the engine to run smoothly, without success.
After warm up it will run perfectly at above say 4000 rpm and at idling
but
in between it is VERY roungh, The whole airframe shakes and it is on 3
cylinders at best.
I have got perfect running at high revs and have got the engine and
prop
running spot on at the recommended 5200 static. I have done lengthy
runs at high
revs (until CHT's start to complain), in the hope of clearing the
problem,
but no luck.
Plugs have been changed for new, carbs thoroughly cleaned + jets etc.,
and
fuel filters. I have now run out of ideas and would welcome any
suggestions
of where to go next.
Patrick
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