Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:16 AM - fat wires (paul atkinson)
2. 02:31 AM - Fat wires (Colin John Howard Richardson)
3. 05:27 AM - Re: fat wires (Jim Brown)
4. 05:57 AM - Re: fat wires (Fred Fillinger)
5. 06:28 AM - Plane is born day on DiscoveryRT today (Paul Sweeting)
6. 06:48 AM - Re: fat wires (nigel charles)
7. 08:04 AM - Nose Gear Springs (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
8. 08:54 AM - Re: Nose Gear Springs (N55XS)
9. 09:59 AM - Re: Nose Gear Springs (ivor.phillips)
10. 10:08 AM - Re: Nose Gear Springs (ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk)
11. 10:42 AM - Re: Nose Gear Springs (G-IANI)
12. 10:50 AM - Re: Nose Gear Springs (Tim Weert)
13. 10:59 AM - Re: Nose Gear Springs (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
14. 11:18 AM - Europa G-ZTED Prop Strike (Justin Kennedy)
15. 12:57 PM - Re: Europa G-ZTED Prop Strike (Mike Gregory)
16. 02:53 PM - Re: Europa G-ZTED Prop Strike ()
17. 02:58 PM - Re: Nose Gear Springs (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
18. 03:12 PM - Re: Nose Gear Springs (N55XS)
19. 06:33 PM - Re: Nose Gear Springs (Paul Boulet)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "paul atkinson" <paul@theatkinsons.demon.co.uk>
Can anyone shed any light on the following.
Until recently I have been powering my stationary ship with an old car
battery. When I tried to operate the starter on my 912s for the first time
there was a sound like a machine gun from the starter contactor and that
was all. I immediately jumped to the conclusion that the battery was not
up to the job and bought myself a "proper" one. With the new one installed
I have the same problem, which pointed me to my wiring as the most likely
cause. I have made up my fat wires (2awg) with soldered terminals. I have
checked the resistance of all these and the highest reading I get is 0.6
ohm on a 2.5m cable. I am not sure how much this means because my
multimeter is not very accurate at this level.
I have tried operating the contactor with the starter disconnected and it
makes a healthy clunk each time the starter button is pressed or released.
I have also removed a plug from each cylinder to give it a fighting
chance, but so far it has not been persuaded to do the job it is paid for.
The new battery is still in a good state of charge.
Is there is any better way of checking that my wiring is up to the job, or
any other suggestions as to the cause of the problem.
Thanks
Paul Atkinson
Message 2
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Colin John Howard Richardson" <cjh.richardson@virgin.net>
Paul,
There is a strong possibility that there is a short circuit in the starter motor.
This would drag the voltage down so low that the contactor releases. Once
released the voltage will rise again and the contactor makes, only to release
when the voltage drops. Hence the chattering.
The starter could be checked with your ohm-meter although even a "good" starter
will be of very low resistance.
regards
John Richardson
G-BXGG Tri-gear (flying)
Message 3
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Jim Brown <acrojim@cfl.rr.com>
Paul
You may need to Ground the engine to the airframe ground.
Jim Brown
paul atkinson wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "paul atkinson" <paul@theatkinsons.demon.co.uk>
>
> Can anyone shed any light on the following.
> Until recently I have been powering my stationary ship with an old car
> battery. When I tried to operate the starter on my 912s for the first time
> there was a sound like a machine gun from the starter contactor and that
> was all. I immediately jumped to the conclusion that the battery was not
> up to the job and bought myself a "proper" one. With the new one installed
> I have the same problem, which pointed me to my wiring as the most likely
> cause. I have made up my fat wires (2awg) with soldered terminals. I have
> checked the resistance of all these and the highest reading I get is 0.6
> ohm on a 2.5m cable. I am not sure how much this means because my
> multimeter is not very accurate at this level.
> I have tried operating the contactor with the starter disconnected and it
> makes a healthy clunk each time the starter button is pressed or released.
> I have also removed a plug from each cylinder to give it a fighting
> chance, but so far it has not been persuaded to do the job it is paid for.
> The new battery is still in a good state of charge.
> Is there is any better way of checking that my wiring is up to the job, or
> any other suggestions as to the cause of the problem.
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul Atkinson
>
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
> I have made up my fat wires (2awg) with soldered
terminals. I have
> checked the resistance of all these and the highest
reading I get is 0.6
> ohm on a 2.5m cable. I am not sure how much this means
because my
> multimeter is not very accurate at this level.
>
> Paul Atkinson
A multimeter cannot read super low resistances, and .6 Ohm
will exhibit the symptom you have but not necessarily the
cause. The simplest diagnostic is automotive jumper cables
to bypass your cables. They can even be #6-8 like they sell
us for cheap, and tell us something.
I would not solder a #2, even tho I have exhausted several
miles of solder wire over the years by now. If above says
cable, then its your connector(s).
It's possible too much chattering on the contactor has
degraded it, or defective. On the AeroElectric connection,
there is a clever (of course!) milliOhm tester using a
D-cell battery, wires, clips, and a voltmeter. Problem is
with a digital multimeter, the D-cell is discharging quickly
(you have a dead short on it), and the numbers are flipping
so work quick. An analog meter is better, but it may not
have a 1 Volt scale setting. 10V forget it.
But such test can diagnose cable and contactor. For latter,
a separate battery closes relay; measure with the D-cell. I
can't remember a typical spec sheet; maybe 2 milliOhms. It
possible that little supplied contactor is too "Ohmy" for
the 912S problem.
The tester can do the starter too for an approximate test,
killing another D-cell, better if it will spin the motor a
little w/o engaging gear. Or remove starter and turn gear
so we're not measuring one brush position only. Maybe one
Ohm? Never tried it.
Good luck!
Reg,
Fred F.
Message 5
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Subject: | Plane is born day on DiscoveryRT today |
0.15 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul Sweeting" <europa@percyville.plus.com>
It=92s a plane is born day today on Discovery Realtime will all episodes shown
back to back (ch 135 on Sky)
Have Fun
Paul
Kits 558 & 575
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 6
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles@tiscali.co.uk>
The Rotax starter arrangement is not the same as a car starter. Instead
of engaging gears the gears are already engaged and the drive is through
a sprag clutch. If the starter does not receive enough current it will
not provide enough speed to throw the clutch into engagement. To find
out whether the problem is downstream of the starter solenoid you could
temporarily bypass the solenoid and use the battery master as a
temporary starter switch. This needs to be done with care. Make sure the
ignition is OFF!!
Nigel Charles
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Fillinger
> Sent: 30 October 2005 13:57
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: fat wires
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
>
> > I have made up my fat wires (2awg) with soldered
> terminals. I have
> > checked the resistance of all these and the highest
> reading I get is 0.6
> > ohm on a 2.5m cable. I am not sure how much this means
> because my
> > multimeter is not very accurate at this level.
> >
> > Paul Atkinson
>
> A multimeter cannot read super low resistances, and .6 Ohm
> will exhibit the symptom you have but not necessarily the
> cause. The simplest diagnostic is automotive jumper cables
> to bypass your cables. They can even be #6-8 like they sell
> us for cheap, and tell us something.
>
> I would not solder a #2, even tho I have exhausted several
> miles of solder wire over the years by now. If above says
> cable, then its your connector(s).
>
> It's possible too much chattering on the contactor has
> degraded it, or defective. On the AeroElectric connection,
> there is a clever (of course!) milliOhm tester using a
> D-cell battery, wires, clips, and a voltmeter. Problem is
> with a digital multimeter, the D-cell is discharging quickly
> (you have a dead short on it), and the numbers are flipping
> so work quick. An analog meter is better, but it may not
> have a 1 Volt scale setting. 10V forget it.
>
> But such test can diagnose cable and contactor. For latter,
> a separate battery closes relay; measure with the D-cell. I
> can't remember a typical spec sheet; maybe 2 milliOhms. It
> possible that little supplied contactor is too "Ohmy" for
> the 912S problem.
>
> The tester can do the starter too for an approximate test,
> killing another D-cell, better if it will spin the motor a
> little w/o engaging gear. Or remove starter and turn gear
> so we're not measuring one brush position only. Maybe one
> Ohm? Never tried it.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Reg,
> Fred F.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Greetings all,
Some time back there was a discussion about replacing the nose gear bungee
with extension springs. I've searched the archive, but couldn't find any info.
Someone graciously sent me pictures and a .pdf file showing a drawing of the
spring they had made, along with all the particulars, i.e., dimensions, spring
constant, etc. I think I've found a company here in Tennessee that will make
these in small batches for a reasonable cost and it seems like an excellent
alternative to the bungee system, IMHO. The only problem is the notation on the
diagram is in Dutch (I think) and I need a translation so that I can forward
the info onto the manufacturer. The name of the manufacturer on the .pdf file I
was sent is "Alcomex" and their address appears to be in Holland. For some
reason I saved the file, but not the contact info of the sender. If anybody
recalls this exchange or can point to it in the archive, please help refresh my
feeble brain!
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Working through an ever shrinking punch list while I await the
delivery of my prop and spinner)
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
John,
When you get the information, I would be interested in being included in
that "small batch" of devices you have produced. Bungees are a pain.
Sorry we missed you at T-Top.
Jeff - N55XS
98+ hours
TELEDYNMCS@aol.com wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>
>Greetings all,
>
>Some time back there was a discussion about replacing the nose gear bungee
>with extension springs. I've searched the archive, but couldn't find any info.
>
>Someone graciously sent me pictures and a .pdf file showing a drawing of the
>spring they had made, along with all the particulars, i.e., dimensions, spring
>constant, etc. I think I've found a company here in Tennessee that will make
>these in small batches for a reasonable cost and it seems like an excellent
>alternative to the bungee system, IMHO. The only problem is the notation on the
>diagram is in Dutch (I think) and I need a translation so that I can forward
>the info onto the manufacturer. The name of the manufacturer on the .pdf file
I
>was sent is "Alcomex" and their address appears to be in Holland. For some
>reason I saved the file, but not the contact info of the sender. If anybody
>recalls this exchange or can point to it in the archive, please help refresh my
>feeble brain!
>
>Regards,
>
>John Lawton
>Dunlap, TN
>A-245 (Working through an ever shrinking punch list while I await the
>delivery of my prop and spinner)
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips@ntlworld.com>
The guy who had the springs made is Tim Weert tim.weert@hccnet.nl
In Holland
>
> Some time back there was a discussion about replacing the nose gear bungee
> with extension springs. I've searched the archive, but couldn't find any
> info.
>
> Someone graciously sent me pictures and a .pdf file showing a drawing of
> the
> spring they had made, along with all the particulars,
Regards
Ivor phillips
XS486
Message 10
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Subject: | Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk
Hi! John
I happen to know that Ivor Phillips has all te info. on these, he is building
an XS at Orpington UK and has regularly flown on overseas trips with me,
He should soon be lurking here and may be away for a weekend, so I'm sure
he will soon respond because he is very committeed to using these springs.
Unfortunately I'm away for the weekend also so I haven't his e-mail address
to hand but will call him tomorrow.
Regards
Bob Harrison
G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
>-- Original Message --
>From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 11:03:08 EST
>Subject: Europa-List: Nose Gear Springs
>To: europa-list-digest@matronics.com
>Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
>
>
>--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>
>Greetings all,
>
>Some time back there was a discussion about replacing the nose gear bungee
>
>with extension springs. I've searched the archive, but couldn't find any
>info.
>
>Someone graciously sent me pictures and a .pdf file showing a drawing of
>the
>spring they had made, along with all the particulars, i.e., dimensions,
spring
>
>constant, etc. I think I've found a company here in Tennessee that will
make
>
>these in small batches for a reasonable cost and it seems like an excellent
>
>alternative to the bungee system, IMHO. The only problem is the notation
>on the
>diagram is in Dutch (I think) and I need a translation so that I can forward
>
>the info onto the manufacturer. The name of the manufacturer on the .pdf
>file I
>was sent is "Alcomex" and their address appears to be in Holland. For some
>
>reason I saved the file, but not the contact info of the sender. If anybody
>
>recalls this exchange or can point to it in the archive, please help refresh
>my
>feeble brain!
>
>Regards,
>
>John Lawton
>Dunlap, TN
>A-245 (Working through an ever shrinking punch list while I await the
>delivery of my prop and spinner)
>
>
Unlimited Tiscali Broadband from 14.99!
http://www.tiscali.co.uk/products/broadband/
Message 11
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Subject: | Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "G-IANI" <g-iani@ntlworld.com>
John & Jeff
I am in the process of putting the springs through the PFA Standard Mods
procedure to get them approved for UK use.
I have sent you a draft of my drawing with the translation done for you. It
is more a requirement than a complete spec. as it does not specify the
material, heat treatment etc.
If anyone else wants details let me know off list
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tim Weert" <tim.weert@hccnet.nl>
Hi Builders and Owners,
At the Kemble FFF05 event Ian and Ivor inspected the ciol springs of my
bird. I sent them all info about the stainless steel coilsprings which were
calculated and tested by Nico Groot. He had to remove the first pair and
recalculated the specifications for the second set. The are fine.
I ordered 3 pairs of springs for Ian and Ivor and will fly them as soon as
possible (VFR weather) to Fairoaks (EGTF) where Ian will collect them.
I discovered I payed 200 euro's for 2 springs because I ordered only two
(one pair). Thats 100 euros per spring. But the 6 springs (3 pairs) for Ian
and Ivor are only 307 euro's. Thats 51,17 euro's per spring, allmost half
price!!
It's wise to wait untill Ian and Ivor receive PFA approval. Then collect all
names of interested Europa owners and order them in one shipment. Most of
the cost is the man who has to install the settings and set the machines,
there after it's just material.
Regards,
Tim Weert.
Heerhugowaard,
PH-JAI #460XS TG 914 AP332.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Nose Gear Springs
> --> Europa-List message posted by: ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk
>
> Hi! John
> I happen to know that Ivor Phillips has all te info. on these, he is
> building
> an XS at Orpington UK and has regularly flown on overseas trips with me,
> He should soon be lurking here and may be away for a weekend, so I'm sure
> he will soon respond because he is very committeed to using these springs.
> Unfortunately I'm away for the weekend also so I haven't his e-mail
> address
> to hand but will call him tomorrow.
> Regards
> Bob Harrison
> G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
>
>>-- Original Message --
>>From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>>Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 11:03:08 EST
>>Subject: Europa-List: Nose Gear Springs
>>To: europa-list-digest@matronics.com
>>Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
>>
>>
>>--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>>
>>Greetings all,
>>
>>Some time back there was a discussion about replacing the nose gear bungee
>>
>>with extension springs. I've searched the archive, but couldn't find any
>>info.
>>
>>Someone graciously sent me pictures and a .pdf file showing a drawing of
>>the
>>spring they had made, along with all the particulars, i.e., dimensions,
> spring
>>
>>constant, etc. I think I've found a company here in Tennessee that will
> make
>>
>>these in small batches for a reasonable cost and it seems like an
>>excellent
>>
>>alternative to the bungee system, IMHO. The only problem is the notation
>>on the
>>diagram is in Dutch (I think) and I need a translation so that I can
>>forward
>>
>>the info onto the manufacturer. The name of the manufacturer on the .pdf
>>file I
>>was sent is "Alcomex" and their address appears to be in Holland. For some
>>
>>reason I saved the file, but not the contact info of the sender. If
>>anybody
>>
>>recalls this exchange or can point to it in the archive, please help
>>refresh
>>my
>>feeble brain!
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>John Lawton
>>Dunlap, TN
>>A-245 (Working through an ever shrinking punch list while I await the
>>delivery of my prop and spinner)
>>
>>
>
>
> Unlimited Tiscali Broadband from 14.99!
> http://www.tiscali.co.uk/products/broadband/
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no>
> The guy who had the springs made is Tim Weert tim.weert@hccnet.nl
> In Holland
That is correct. I received the same (I assume) drawing etc. from Tim this
summer, and ordered the pair from Alcomex in Holland. They were very nice
to deal with, and I have now fitted the springs.
I developed further Tim's recommended method of fitting them - it turned out
to be much easier than I first feared might be the case because of the
substantial spring force. If anyone elects to go this same route, let me
know and I will post my method here on the forum.
I also received from Tim a copy of a letter from EMIL sent to a Ducth
builder, which although not constituting a formal approval, perhaps,
definitely gave me the confidence to implement this mod. By the way, keep
the safety wire even if you fit the stainless steel springs- it may still
serve its mission in a really hard nose wheel landing.
Regards,
Svein
A225 - now in Norway - fuselage being trailered to the paint shop on
Tuesday - then wings and control surfaces to be filled and sanded (!#!)
Message 14
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Subject: | Europa G-ZTED Prop Strike |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Justin Kennedy" <Justin@systemwise.co.uk>
Prop Strike!
Our aircraft G-ZTED is a Europa Classic Monowheel Rotax 912S with an Airmaster
A332 Propeller.
Our lovely Europa, our pride and joy, was only 17 hours old when we went to our
first fly-in. I was taxiing on rough grass and slightly out of wind, the tail
lifted and, o woe and thrice woe, the propeller dug into the soft turf breaking
three blades off and damaging the variable pitch mechanism of the prop.
Lots of thought and soul searching not to mention upset later we have come up with
a set of rules for taxiing our Classic Monowheel which will hopefully avoid
this happening again. The Rules are on the back door of our trailer stuck to
the broken blades to remind us. I would like to have seen these and thought about
them before it happened to me. I offer the story here in spite of the embarrassment,
knowing that if it saves just one propeller that it is worthwhile.
The elevator of the Europa is powerful, it's brakes are good and the Centre of
Gravity is not that far behind the mainwheel. Coupled with this we have the Rotax
912S with an Airmaster A332 constant speed prop which, when set to fine,
can produce a thrust of over 500 lbs on the ground. Each one of these things can
lead to the tail becoming light and in a number of circumstances they can add
together to cause a certain propeller strike. All these forces act in the same
way conspiring to wreck your propeller, your day, your self esteem and your
bank balance.
So, to counter this, we have devised a set of Rules which I am going to adhere
to.
It should be food for thought for new Monowheel owners.
Rule 1: DO NOT Use more than 3000 rpm to taxi.
This puts a limit on the amount of thrust which tends to tip the nose forward.
If the ground is so rough that more than 3000 rpm is required then you should
not be there. Shut Down and pull her out. It is a lot cheaper than a propeller.
Rule 2: DO NOT Taxi with Power against the Brakes
This is much the same as number one. Taxiing against the brakes produces a tendency
to tip the nose forward. I can think of no occasion when it is a sensible
thing to do so it is now off limits.
Rule 3: ALWAYS Do the run up check directly into wind
This may seem obvious but given the situation where you were say 40 degrees out
of wind in a blustery 25kt wind. The power goes on for the run up against the
brakes. This makes the tail lighter but you pull the stick right back. Due to
the strong side wind the prop wash is not operating on the upwind side of the
elevator and the aircraft is very tail light. The blustery wind gusts under the
windward elevator and the equation is suddenly not in your favour. Obey rule
three and this won't happen.
Rule 4: ALWAYS Centralise Control Stick when taxiing out of wind
Again this is obvious. The all flying elevator is so powerful that if pulled back
it is enough to lift the tail all on it's own without any of the other factors
helping it. Due to the taxiing attitude of the monowheel the ailerons are
best centralised out of wind.
Centralised controls make the Europa Monowheel quite stable when taxiing downwind.
Rule 5: NEVER Taxi on Rough Grass
This is a bit extreme but after our experience we are going to stick to this. The
Europa Monwheel's big wheel makes landing on rough fields possible but taxiing
on rough grass is risky. If 3000 rpm won't take you then Shut Down and get
out and pull it out. Believe me it is cheaper to do that.
Rule 6: NEVER Use Power to overcome obstacles. When you get stuck. SHUT ENGINE
DOWN and get out and pull it out.
OK this is Rule five again but it is the most dodgy thing to do. Directly into
wind it may be possible to get away with more thrust but our Airmaster Propeller
is a wonderful piece of kit and makes our aeroplane very good cruising machine.
It can pull the nose over with very little help. Why risk it.
The above instructions are now incorporated into our Pilot Notes.
We are just getting to know what a fantastic aeroplane we have made.
See you around.
Justin Kennedy
G-ZTED
Message 15
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Subject: | Europa G-ZTED Prop Strike |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike Gregory" <m.j.gregory@talk21.com>
Thanks, Justin, for sharing with us your unfortunate experience and your new
rules are avoid recurrence.
I should like to add one very important rule that we publicised about five
years ago, which is "NEVER apply the brakes while turning". The reason for
this is that the outriggers are behind the centre of gravity, and therefore
it is much easier to tip a monowheel Europa over when the tipping axis is
mainwheel/outrigger rather than the mainwheel only (as when static or moving
straight ahead). This rule applies just as much to taxying (except when
moving very slowly, for the experienced) as it does to the landing roll.
A further point, which follows from your Rule 2, is "ALWAYS throttle back
before applying the brake". This is particularly important if the aircraft
starts to move forward during a power run-up: the natural tendency to grab
the brake and apply it harder to stop the movement must be resisted until
the engine has been throttled back.
Fly (and taxi) safely
Mike
Europa Club Safety Officer
safety@europaclub.org.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Justin Kennedy
Subject: Europa-List: Europa G-ZTED Prop Strike
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Justin Kennedy"
<Justin@systemwise.co.uk>
Prop Strike!
Our aircraft G-ZTED is a Europa Classic Monowheel Rotax 912S with an
Airmaster A332 Propeller.
Our lovely Europa, our pride and joy, was only 17 hours old when we went to
our first fly-in. I was taxiing on rough grass and slightly out of wind, the
tail lifted and, o woe and thrice woe, the propeller dug into the soft turf
breaking three blades off and damaging the variable pitch mechanism of the
prop.
Lots of thought and soul searching not to mention upset later we have come
up with a set of rules for taxiing our Classic Monowheel which will
hopefully avoid this happening again. The Rules are on the back door of our
trailer stuck to the broken blades to remind us. I would like to have seen
these and thought about them before it happened to me. I offer the story
here in spite of the embarrassment, knowing that if it saves just one
propeller that it is worthwhile.
The elevator of the Europa is powerful, it's brakes are good and the Centre
of Gravity is not that far behind the mainwheel. Coupled with this we have
the Rotax 912S with an Airmaster A332 constant speed prop which, when set
to fine, can produce a thrust of over 500 lbs on the ground. Each one of
these things can lead to the tail becoming light and in a number of
circumstances they can add together to cause a certain propeller strike. All
these forces act in the same way conspiring to wreck your propeller, your
day, your self esteem and your bank balance.
So, to counter this, we have devised a set of Rules which I am going to
adhere to.
It should be food for thought for new Monowheel owners.
Rule 1: DO NOT Use more than 3000 rpm to taxi.
This puts a limit on the amount of thrust which tends to tip the nose
forward. If the ground is so rough that more than 3000 rpm is required then
you should not be there. Shut Down and pull her out. It is a lot cheaper
than a propeller.
Rule 2: DO NOT Taxi with Power against the Brakes
This is much the same as number one. Taxiing against the brakes produces a
tendency to tip the nose forward. I can think of no occasion when it is a
sensible thing to do so it is now off limits.
Rule 3: ALWAYS Do the run up check directly into wind
This may seem obvious but given the situation where you were say 40 degrees
out of wind in a blustery 25kt wind. The power goes on for the run up
against the brakes. This makes the tail lighter but you pull the stick right
back. Due to the strong side wind the prop wash is not operating on the
upwind side of the elevator and the aircraft is very tail light. The
blustery wind gusts under the windward elevator and the equation is suddenly
not in your favour. Obey rule three and this won't happen.
Rule 4: ALWAYS Centralise Control Stick when taxiing out of wind
Again this is obvious. The all flying elevator is so powerful that if pulled
back it is enough to lift the tail all on it's own without any of the other
factors helping it. Due to the taxiing attitude of the monowheel the
ailerons are best centralised out of wind.
Centralised controls make the Europa Monowheel quite stable when taxiing
downwind.
Rule 5: NEVER Taxi on Rough Grass
This is a bit extreme but after our experience we are going to stick to
this. The Europa Monwheel's big wheel makes landing on rough fields possible
but taxiing on rough grass is risky. If 3000 rpm won't take you then Shut
Down and get out and pull it out. Believe me it is cheaper to do that.
Rule 6: NEVER Use Power to overcome obstacles. When you get stuck. SHUT
ENGINE DOWN and get out and pull it out.
OK this is Rule five again but it is the most dodgy thing to do. Directly
into wind it may be possible to get away with more thrust but our Airmaster
Propeller is a wonderful piece of kit and makes our aeroplane very good
cruising machine. It can pull the nose over with very little help. Why risk
it.
The above instructions are now incorporated into our Pilot Notes.
We are just getting to know what a fantastic aeroplane we have made.
See you around.
Justin Kennedy
G-ZTED
Message 16
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Subject: | Europa G-ZTED Prop Strike |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Thanks Justin and Mike for heads up on Monowheel unwanted "Nose Low/ness"
Curious, does the XS Monowheel have any better manners as far as nosing
over compared to the Classic?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: jimpuglise@comcast.net
Do not archive
John --
I'm interested too. I'd imagine a number of people are so when you get the information
you may want to put it on the net so we can have several sets made.
Jim A-283
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS
>
> John,
>
> When you get the information, I would be interested in being included in
> that "small batch" of devices you have produced. Bungees are a pain.
>
> Sorry we missed you at T-Top.
>
> Jeff - N55XS
> 98+ hours
>
> TELEDYNMCS@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
> >
> >Greetings all,
> >
> >Some time back there was a discussion about replacing the nose gear bungee
> >with extension springs. I've searched the archive, but couldn't find any info.
> >
> >Someone graciously sent me pictures and a .pdf file showing a drawing of the
> >spring they had made, along with all the particulars, i.e., dimensions, spring
> >constant, etc. I think I've found a company here in Tennessee that will make
> >these in small batches for a reasonable cost and it seems like an excellent
> >alternative to the bungee system, IMHO. The only problem is the notation on
the
> >diagram is in Dutch (I think) and I need a translation so that I can forward
> >the info onto the manufacturer. The name of the manufacturer on the .pdf file
I
> >was sent is "Alcomex" and their address appears to be in Holland. For some
> >reason I saved the file, but not the contact info of the sender. If anybody
> >recalls this exchange or can point to it in the archive, please help refresh
my
> >feeble brain!
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >John Lawton
> >Dunlap, TN
> >A-245 (Working through an ever shrinking punch list while I await the
> >delivery of my prop and spinner)
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Do not archive
John --
I'm interested too. I'd imagine a number of people are so when you get the information
you may want to put it on the net so we can have several sets made.
Jim A-283
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <TOPGLOCK@COX.NET>
John,
When you get the information, I would be interested in being included in
that "small batch" of devices you have produced. Bungees are a pain.
Sorry we missed you at T-Top.
Jeff - N55XS
98+ hours
TELEDYNMCS@aol.com wrote:
-- Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
Greetings all,
Some time back there was a discussion about replacing the nose gear bungee
with extension springs. I've searched the archive, but couldn't find any info.
Someone graciously sent me pictures and a .pdf file showing a drawing of the
spring they h
ad made, along with all the particulars, i.e., dimensions, spring
constant, etc. I think I've found a company here in Tennessee that will make
these in small batches for a reasonable cost and it seems like an excellent
alternative to the bungee system, IMHO. The only problem is the notation on the
diagram is in Dutch (I think) and I need a translation so that I can forward
the info onto the manufacturer. The name of the manufacturer on the .pdf file
I
was sent is "Alcomex" and their address appears to be in Holland. For some
reason I saved the file, but not the contact info of the sender. If anybody
recalls this exchange or can point to it in the archive, please help refresh my
feeble brain!
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Working through an ever shrinking punch list while I
await the
delivery of my prop and spinner)
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS <topglock@cox.net>
Svein,
I would be very interested in your method of installing the springs.
Jeff - N55XS
99.9 hours
Sidsel & Svein Johnsen wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no>
>
>
>
>> The guy who had the springs made is Tim Weert tim.weert@hccnet.nl
>>In Holland
>>
>>
>
>That is correct. I received the same (I assume) drawing etc. from Tim this
>summer, and ordered the pair from Alcomex in Holland. They were very nice
>to deal with, and I have now fitted the springs.
>
>I developed further Tim's recommended method of fitting them - it turned out
>to be much easier than I first feared might be the case because of the
>substantial spring force. If anyone elects to go this same route, let me
>know and I will post my method here on the forum.
>I also received from Tim a copy of a letter from EMIL sent to a Ducth
>builder, which although not constituting a formal approval, perhaps,
>definitely gave me the confidence to implement this mod. By the way, keep
>the safety wire even if you fit the stainless steel springs- it may still
>serve its mission in a really hard nose wheel landing.
>
>Regards,
>Svein
>A225 - now in Norway - fuselage being trailered to the paint shop on
>Tuesday - then wings and control surfaces to be filled and sanded (!#!)
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Springs |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Boulet <possibletodo@yahoo.com>
count me in as one interested in the nosewheel springs
Paul Boulet, N914PB
Malibu, CA
"converting to tri gear- have 10 hours on 914
monowheel"
--- N55XS <topglock@cox.net> wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS
> <topglock@cox.net>
>
> John,
>
> When you get the information, I would be interested
> in being included in
> that "small batch" of devices you have produced.
> Bungees are a pain.
>
> Sorry we missed you at T-Top.
>
> Jeff - N55XS
> 98+ hours
>
> TELEDYNMCS@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> Europa-List message posted by:
> TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
> >
> >Greetings all,
> >
> >Some time back there was a discussion about
> replacing the nose gear bungee
> >with extension springs. I've searched the archive,
> but couldn't find any info.
> >
> >Someone graciously sent me pictures and a .pdf file
> showing a drawing of the
> >spring they had made, along with all the
> particulars, i.e., dimensions, spring
> >constant, etc. I think I've found a company here in
> Tennessee that will make
> >these in small batches for a reasonable cost and it
> seems like an excellent
> >alternative to the bungee system, IMHO. The only
> problem is the notation on the
> >diagram is in Dutch (I think) and I need a
> translation so that I can forward
> >the info onto the manufacturer. The name of the
> manufacturer on the .pdf file I
> >was sent is "Alcomex" and their address appears to
> be in Holland. For some
> >reason I saved the file, but not the contact info
> of the sender. If anybody
> >recalls this exchange or can point to it in the
> archive, please help refresh my
> >feeble brain!
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >John Lawton
> >Dunlap, TN
> >A-245 (Working through an ever shrinking punch list
> while I await the
> >delivery of my prop and spinner)
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
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