Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:16 AM - Re: Monowheel Brake (NevEyre@aol.com)
2. 01:52 AM - Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question (Roger Mills)
3. 06:10 AM - Re: Fw: Alternator Lamp (Bill Henderson)
4. 06:10 AM - Re: Fw: Alternator Lamp (Bill Henderson)
5. 06:27 AM - Re: Fw: Alternator Lamp (Gilles Thesee)
6. 07:39 AM - Re: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax? (Raimo Toivio)
7. 08:04 AM - Fw: Sun-n-fun (Bill Henderson)
8. 09:11 AM - Re: Fw: Sun-n-fun (EuropaXSA276@aol.com)
9. 09:58 AM - Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question (Andrew Sarangan)
10. 10:48 AM - scratches (Paul Stewart)
11. 11:24 AM - Re: scratches (Peter Rees)
12. 11:25 AM - Re: scratches (Dave_Miller@avivacanada.com)
13. 01:06 PM - Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency (Mark Burton)
14. 01:46 PM - Re: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency (Duncan McFadyean)
15. 02:00 PM - Re: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency (Mark Burton)
16. 02:00 PM - Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question (Jeremy Davey)
17. 02:33 PM - Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question (William Daniell)
18. 03:58 PM - Re: Fw: Alternator Lamp (karelvranken)
19. 05:12 PM - Re: Fw: Sun-n-fun (Rman)
20. 06:29 PM - Re: scratches (Cliff Shaw)
21. 09:04 PM - Rotax HD Starter output (Watts) ()
22. 11:35 PM - Re: Re: Rotax regulator (William Mills)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Monowheel Brake |
--> Europa-List message posted by: NevEyre@aol.com
Hi Martin,
The bores of the two holes in the brake pad plate, are probably grabbing the
two pins [ like the action of a ''mastic gun'' ]........ ease the holes
slightly, and radius the edges, to prevent the corners ''grabbing''.Ensure the
piston is coming out evenly, push it back with a G [ C?} clamp if it is scewed,
and pump it out when the caliper is reinstalled.
Lube with a smear of ''Copperslip'' or similar copper filled grease.
Cheers,
Nev.
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com>
I personally found the welding wire to be a little too flexible to allow me
to confidently find the position. In the end I used a much stiffer 3mm
brazing rod and eyeballed it using Neville's technique. To confirm the
"eyeballed" position I found that a DIY stud finder also found the position
of the rib quite accurately and, to be triply sure, a DIY pipe finder also
confirmed the brazing rod tip position. (I needed a bit of re-assurance
before drilling the leading edge possibly in the wrong place!!)
Roger Mills
Europa 141
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Fwd: Alternator Lamp |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net>
If you can read German, here's some interesting info from Ducati on the
regulator. Also has some schematics and a cross reference for the TP154E
thryristor (2N6507).
Bill
A010 Classic Monowheel
----- Original Message -----
From: <SPurpura@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: Alternator Lamp
> --> Europa-List message posted by: SPurpura@aol.com
>
> A DUCATI FROM LOCKWOOD.
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Fwd: Alternator Lamp |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net>
Sorry,
Forgot to attach the URL.....
If you can read German, here's some interesting info from Ducati on the
regulator. Also has some schematics and a cross reference for the TP154E
thryristor (2N6507).
http://www.ducati.dk/teknik/MC_Elektro.pdf
Bill
A010 Classic Monowheel
----- Original Message -----
From: <SPurpura@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: Alternator Lamp
> --> Europa-List message posted by: SPurpura@aol.com
>
> A DUCATI FROM LOCKWOOD.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Fwd: Alternator Lamp |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Bill Henderson a crit :
>Sorry,
>
>Forgot to attach the URL.....
>
>If you can read German, here's some interesting info from Ducati on the
>regulator. Also has some schematics and a cross reference for the TP154E
>thryristor (2N6507).
>
>http://www.ducati.dk/teknik/MC_Elektro.pdf
>
>
>
Bill,
Interesting find.
Unfortunately, it's not German, but Danish ;-)
Much harder to translate.
The schematic is not quite that of our rotax regulator. But it has some
similarities.
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Pre-heating a Rotax? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
Jemmy,
my only statement was:
What so ever engine preheating is always valuable
and something what wise man should do if necessary.
And it is necessary when cold enough and he has not
heated garage...
It is like preplay with woman. Some do it and some never.
My honest recommendation - get happier life.
Regards, Raimo
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:34 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax?
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
>
> Teimo,
>
> A long-winded journey to the same conclusion :-) I concur - if preheating
> means you can open the engine up sooner, it will get the cc to temp a little
> sooner, and hence do more to save the environment!
>
> I suspect, though, that this one is a marginal saving - certainly when
> compared to the environmental benefits of dropping a bomb on a suburban 4x4
> on every flight...!
>
> Cheers,
> Jeremy
>
> Jeremy Davey
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> PFA EC Member
> "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
> possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings with mods underway
> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> 1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves and
> lack of workshop
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Raimo Toivio
> Sent: 27 January 2006 10:21
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax?
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
>
> Jeremy,
>
> OK - of course you are technically right but same target.
> When rich, catalytic converter cannot work as it should be.
> In fact, it is possible to spoil it by a little but possibe amount of rare
> petrol. And that is bad for your wallet and surrounding nature.
> If preheated I am sure also cc gets earlier upp to operating temperature and
> start to work sooner. When preheated, the engine idle time is usually
> shorter and that is good for cc.
> So, engine preheating also helps cc to save the world...
>
> Wishes, Raimo (not Teimo)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 8:09 PM
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax?
>
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
> >
> > Hold on Teimo - much of that I'd agree with, but not the bit on the
> > catalyst.
> >
> > The catalytic converter does not work until it gets up to temperature (in
> > the hundreds of degrees), regardless of the initial temperature of the
> > engine. Preheating the engine will not reduce pollution by making the cat
> > work sooner - but it will reduce pollution some by reducing the length of
> > time the engine is running rich ("on choke").
> >
> > Regards,
> > Jeremy
> >
> > Jeremy Davey
> > Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> > Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> > PFA EC Member
> > "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
> is
> > possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
> > Tail done
> > Standard XS wings with mods underway
> > CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> > 1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves and
> > lack of workshop
> > Intended fit:
> > Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> > Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Raimo Toivio
> > Sent: 26 January 2006 15:57
> > To: europa-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax?
> >
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
> >
> > All (on the northern hemisphere)!
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net>
> > To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 3:40 AM
> > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax?
> >
> >
> > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net>
> > >
> > > Talked to Andy about winter operations the other day. He suggested that
> > the
> > > Rotax is built with tolerances similar to an automobile engine and
> > therefore
> > > really doesn't need preheated. After all, do you preheat your car?
> > >
> >
> > Yes I really do! Always when below 0C. Also cockpit.
> >
> > Main factors:
> >
> > 1) preheated engine gives instantly heat for cockpit
> >
> > - safe: windows are immediately clean of ice and snow and no fog on them
> > - comfort: +20C leather feels better than -20C leather and less clothing
> > - health: no back injury for example
> >
> > 2) engine health: oil works immediately after start
> >
> > 3) fuel consumption: preheated car saves money
> >
> > - thumb of rule: cold engine takes extra fuel 2 dl
> > or more in every cold start
> >
> > 4) pollution: less fuel - less pollution
> >
> > - catalysator did not work until the engine is warm
> >
> > 5) time tables: preheated car starts "always" like under the palm tree
> >
> > - if cold, have you enough el-power to start the stiff engine?
> > - you can drive immediately, no warm-upp moms
> >
> > Sophisticated Engine Preheat Systems:
> >
> > - electric resistance element in water w thermostat connected to mains
> > (typically 500W and 2 hrs pre-heating is enough for -20C)
> > - programable and radio remote controlled heating system,
> > burns petrol or diesel (Webasto, Ebersbacher...)
> > (typically 2-5kW and 20 minutes is enough, needs also electric 50W)
> > - also integrated battery pre-heating and charging systems
> > - heated car garage, if possible (!)
> >
> > I have installed electric preheating system in my Rotax.
> > I will keep it on ALWAYS when below +10C (in or out).
> > It keeps also cockpit warm and dry (good for electronic bits).
> >
> > I have also water thermostat and heat exchanger in oil system.
> > Cannot comment how they work - engine has not fire upp yet.
> >
> > Regards, Raimo
> > ===========
> > Raimo M W Toivio
> >
> > OH-XRT #417 XS Mono, building hrs 1400 so far
> > OH-CVK C172 Skyhawk
> > OH-BLL Beech C45
> >
> > 37500 Lempaala
> > Finland
> > tel + 358 3 3753 777
> > fax + 358 3 3753 100
> > gsm + 358 40 590 1450
> >
> > raimo.toivio@rwm.fi
> > www.rwm.fi
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
Message 7
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net>
As info for anyone going to Sun-n-Fun this year. Didn't see Europa on the vendor
list. Below is Andy's reply.
Bill
A010
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Draper
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:10 AM
Subject: RE: Sun-n-fun
Dear Bill,
We will be at Sun N Fun and can be found just outside Hangar C beside the pond.
The stand number is AC-004. Hope to see you there.
Regards
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Henderson [mailto:europabill@bellsouth.net]
Sent: 29 January 2006 19:30
To: Andy Draper
Subject: Sun-n-fun
Andy,
Just checked the Sun-n-Fun exibitor list and Europa's not on it....
Will Europa be at the event this year?
Thanks,
Bill
A010 Classic Monowheel
--
Virus scanned by Lumison.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Fw: Sun-n-fun |
--> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA276@aol.com
Any plans for a Europa meeting?
Do not archive
Brian Skelly
Europa XS TriGear #A276
North Texas USA
You can see my build photos at:
www.europaowners.org/brians
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Thanks for that explanation. Here is a technique that I think might
work better (assuming I understand it correctly). My wingtips have
cutouts for the installation of nav lights at the leading egde. That
gives me access to the ribs in front of the spar. The rib we are
looking for is the second one from the tip. The first one (and
presumably all) have small holes for pressure equalization. I can push
a long wooden dowel through the first rib until it hits the second rib,
and get an exact measure of its distance from the tip. Then I transfer
that distance (minus 0.5" for the flange) along the leading edge and
drill the hole. Does that sound right?
I could not find Neville's posting in the archives on using a light
bulb to locate the distance. If anyone can send me a reference, I would
appreciate it. Thanks.
--- Roger Mills <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Mills"
> <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com>
>
> I personally found the welding wire to be a little too flexible to
> allow me
> to confidently find the position. In the end I used a much stiffer
> 3mm
> brazing rod and eyeballed it using Neville's technique. To confirm
> the
> "eyeballed" position I found that a DIY stud finder also found the
> position
> of the rib quite accurately and, to be triply sure, a DIY pipe finder
> also
> confirmed the brazing rod tip position. (I needed a bit of
> re-assurance
> before drilling the leading edge possibly in the wrong place!!)
>
> Roger Mills
>
> Europa 141
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
Message 10
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
All
Can you polish scrathches out of the 'glass' supplied with the europa (
is it perspex / polycarbonate?)? If you can what with ?
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
Message 11
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees01@tiscali.co.uk>
Hi Paul
we had some pretty deep scratches on our screen - I got them out using
Novus - can't even tell they were there now. Think I got mine from 'Pinball
heaven' - about 6 or so.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stewart" <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 6:46 PM
Subject: Europa-List: scratches
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
>
> All
>
> Can you polish scrathches out of the 'glass' supplied with the europa (
> is it perspex / polycarbonate?)? If you can what with ?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
> G-GIDY
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
--> Europa-List message posted by: Dave_Miller@avivacanada.com
Paul,
Check out the aircraftspruce.com site, search under Polish, some of the
items listed should work OK
Dave
C-FBZI
do not archive
Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
Sent by: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
01/30/2006 01:46 PM
Please respond to europa-list
To: "europa-list@matronics.com" <europa-list@matronics.com>
cc:
Subject: Europa-List: scratches
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
All
Can you polish scrathches out of the 'glass' supplied with the europa (
is it perspex / polycarbonate?)? If you can what with ?
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com>
Folks,
Does anyone know (or can make a reasonable guess at) what the resonant frequency
of a classic engine mount + 912 + prop is?
I realise all aircraft will be different but I'm just after a rough figure.
Thanks,
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8245#8245
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
On which axis?!
Duncan McF
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 8:57 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com>
>
> Folks,
>
> Does anyone know (or can make a reasonable guess at) what the resonant
> frequency of a classic engine mount + 912 + prop is?
>
> I realise all aircraft will be different but I'm just after a rough
> figure.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8245#8245
>
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com>
Up/down or left/right but probably not forward/backwards!
The question could be restated as: if I was cruel enough to hit my engine with
a big hammer. What frequency can I expect it to wobble at!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8254#8254
Message 16
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|
Subject: | Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
Andrew,
There was quite a thread on this topic some time back. I posted once or
twice on how to do the mod using tape and a bright lamp - if you search on
me you should find the thread and can get the rest from there.
Kind regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves and
lack of workshop
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan
Sent: 30 January 2006 17:56
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall
warner question
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Thanks for that explanation. Here is a technique that I think might work
better (assuming I understand it correctly). My wingtips have cutouts for
the installation of nav lights at the leading egde. That gives me access to
the ribs in front of the spar. The rib we are looking for is the second one
from the tip. The first one (and presumably all) have small holes for
pressure equalization. I can push a long wooden dowel through the first rib
until it hits the second rib, and get an exact measure of its distance from
the tip. Then I transfer that distance (minus 0.5" for the flange) along the
leading edge and drill the hole. Does that sound right?
I could not find Neville's posting in the archives on using a light bulb to
locate the distance. If anyone can send me a reference, I would appreciate
it. Thanks.
--- Roger Mills <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Mills"
> <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com>
>
> I personally found the welding wire to be a little too flexible to
> allow me to confidently find the position. In the end I used a much
> stiffer 3mm brazing rod and eyeballed it using Neville's technique. To
> confirm the "eyeballed" position I found that a DIY stud finder also
> found the position of the rib quite accurately and, to be triply sure,
> a DIY pipe finder also confirmed the brazing rod tip position. (I
> needed a bit of re-assurance before drilling the leading edge possibly
> in the wrong place!!)
>
> Roger Mills
>
> Europa 141
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
Message 17
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Subject: | Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner |
question
--> Europa-List message posted by: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co>
This was the technique I used on the advice of - oh bugger I can't remember.
A strong inspection lamp above will show you where the rib is.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Davey
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 16:59
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall
warner question
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
Andrew,
There was quite a thread on this topic some time back. I posted once or
twice on how to do the mod using tape and a bright lamp - if you search on
me you should find the thread and can get the rest from there.
Kind regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves and
lack of workshop
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan
Sent: 30 January 2006 17:56
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall
warner question
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Thanks for that explanation. Here is a technique that I think might work
better (assuming I understand it correctly). My wingtips have cutouts for
the installation of nav lights at the leading egde. That gives me access to
the ribs in front of the spar. The rib we are looking for is the second one
from the tip. The first one (and presumably all) have small holes for
pressure equalization. I can push a long wooden dowel through the first rib
until it hits the second rib, and get an exact measure of its distance from
the tip. Then I transfer that distance (minus 0.5" for the flange) along the
leading edge and drill the hole. Does that sound right?
I could not find Neville's posting in the archives on using a light bulb to
locate the distance. If anyone can send me a reference, I would appreciate
it. Thanks.
--- Roger Mills <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Mills"
> <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com>
>
> I personally found the welding wire to be a little too flexible to
> allow me to confidently find the position. In the end I used a much
> stiffer 3mm brazing rod and eyeballed it using Neville's technique. To
> confirm the "eyeballed" position I found that a DIY stud finder also
> found the position of the rib quite accurately and, to be triply sure,
> a DIY pipe finder also confirmed the brazing rod tip position. (I
> needed a bit of re-assurance before drilling the leading edge possibly
> in the wrong place!!)
>
> Roger Mills
>
> Europa 141
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>
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Fwd: Alternator Lamp |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "karelvranken" <karelvranken@hotmail.com>
Bill,
Must be a skandinavian language. German, Dutch, English, French, OK but
that's all I can read and understand.
Karel Vranken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: Alternator Lamp
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Fw: Sun-n-fun |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rman <topglock@cox.net>
The Wife and I will be attending. Hope to meet other Europaphiles.
Also hoping Andy is successful in getting us a Europa specific parking
area...
Jeff - N55XS
137 hours...
EuropaXSA276@aol.com wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA276@aol.com
>
> Any plans for a Europa meeting?
>
> Do not archive
> Brian Skelly
> Europa XS TriGear #A276
> North Texas USA
> You can see my build photos at:
> www.europaowners.org/brians
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
Message 20
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Paul
I did a small scratched spot. (I won't tell you to use better tape around the edges
of the windscreen.)
I used a kit from Aircraft Spruce made just for the job. I just looked up the part
number P/N 09-24700 . You will find it in the "Plexiglas restoration - polishes"
section.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Stewart
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: Europa-List: scratches
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
All
Can you polish scrathches out of the 'glass' supplied with the europa (
is it perspex / polycarbonate?)? If you can what with ?
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
Message 21
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Subject: | Rotax HD Starter output (Watts) |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Anyone know how many watts a Rotax HD starter is? Or how many amps it
draws?
The older starter is 600 watts according to the install manual, and
Lockwood said that the HD draws less than the old style, but dosen't know
how much. I was only able to get "Less thasn 100 amps"
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Rotax regulator |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills" <william@wrmills.plus.com>
Hi Gilles,
Do you consider the Rotax regulator could develop an intermittent fault so
that it is not always charging at full capacity? I have noticed in flight
that sometimes the voltmeter drops to about 13 V and other times it stays at
14 V (13.8, I presume). Last time I brought the aircraft home the battery
was not full charged and needed some time on the charger to top it up. The
battery is an Odyssey PC680 and is only one year old.
Many thanks,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilles Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee
> <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> Hi Richard,
>
>>> What if it doesn't tame
>>>the regulator output ?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Is there some way of checking this ? Perhaps on your
>>student's test rig ?
>>
>>
>>
> Hmm, remember that was two years ago. I'm afraid the alternator might
> now lie on a forgotten shelf...
>
>>>Have you considered including a relay in the B/R to bus
>>>circuit ? Bob Nuckolls' Aeroelectric figure Z 16 could
>>>be of interest. My design is a variation on Bob's
>>>theme, with small changes due to the different
>>>regulator.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I just didn't want to use a physical switch/cb/relay to go
>>from an overvolt situation of maybe 30 A to nothing.
>>
>> It
>>would not be good for the switch/cb/relay, IF
>>disconnecting the C terminal turns off the regulator then
>>there will be no actual disconnection spark anywhere,
>>
> Grounding the C wire will shut down the regulator. That is, IF it is
> working properly. But then where does that OV condition come from ?
>
>>>The C wire is a sense wire, so AWG 22 and 5 amps is
>>>about right.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>5 amps actual seems like a lot for a sense wire. That
>>means that the regulator B+/R terminals produce up to 24A
>>of which 5A goes back into the regulator ?
>>
>>
> 5 amps is the usual CB rating for AWG 22 wire. And for mechanical
> reasons, AWG 22 is about the smallest wire used for wiring light aircraft.
> Remember, if your crowbar fires, the current will flow from the bus bar
> via the OV CB, to the ground, tripping the CB in the process.
>
>>I have seen your fine pictures of the cleaned out
>>regulator. It appears that B+ and R are connected together
>>inside anyway !
>>
>>
> Yes
>
>>Could you send me the schematic of the circuit inside there ?
>>
>>
> Will do. Just give me some time to sort the 40+ MB of data Jerome just
> sent me. I would like to publish something really up to date.
>
>>I have a friend who dabbles in obscure components. He
>>looked up TP154E. It is a Thrystor 800 volt 25 A 40mA and
>>an alternative would be 2N6509 which in my catalogue is
>>about 1 GBP - say 2 euros !
>>
>>
> Great !
> Thank you,
> Gilles
> http://contrails.free.fr
>
>
> --
> 25/01/2006
>
>
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