Europa-List Digest Archive

Mon 01/30/06


Total Messages Posted: 22



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:16 AM - Re: Monowheel Brake (NevEyre@aol.com)
     2. 01:52 AM - Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question (Roger Mills)
     3. 06:10 AM - Re: Fw: Alternator Lamp (Bill Henderson)
     4. 06:10 AM - Re: Fw: Alternator Lamp (Bill Henderson)
     5. 06:27 AM - Re: Fw: Alternator Lamp (Gilles Thesee)
     6. 07:39 AM - Re: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax? (Raimo Toivio)
     7. 08:04 AM - Fw: Sun-n-fun (Bill Henderson)
     8. 09:11 AM - Re: Fw: Sun-n-fun (EuropaXSA276@aol.com)
     9. 09:58 AM - Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question (Andrew Sarangan)
    10. 10:48 AM - scratches (Paul Stewart)
    11. 11:24 AM - Re: scratches (Peter Rees)
    12. 11:25 AM - Re: scratches (Dave_Miller@avivacanada.com)
    13. 01:06 PM - Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency (Mark Burton)
    14. 01:46 PM - Re: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency (Duncan McFadyean)
    15. 02:00 PM - Re: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency (Mark Burton)
    16. 02:00 PM - Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question (Jeremy Davey)
    17. 02:33 PM - Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall 	warner question (William Daniell)
    18. 03:58 PM - Re: Fw: Alternator Lamp (karelvranken)
    19. 05:12 PM - Re: Fw: Sun-n-fun (Rman)
    20. 06:29 PM - Re: scratches (Cliff Shaw)
    21. 09:04 PM - Rotax HD Starter output (Watts) ()
    22. 11:35 PM - Re: Re: Rotax regulator (William Mills)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:16:49 AM PST US
    From: NevEyre@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Monowheel Brake
    --> Europa-List message posted by: NevEyre@aol.com Hi Martin, The bores of the two holes in the brake pad plate, are probably grabbing the two pins [ like the action of a ''mastic gun'' ]........ ease the holes slightly, and radius the edges, to prevent the corners ''grabbing''.Ensure the piston is coming out evenly, push it back with a G [ C?} clamp if it is scewed, and pump it out when the caliper is reinstalled. Lube with a smear of ''Copperslip'' or similar copper filled grease. Cheers, Nev.


    Message 2


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    Time: 01:52:02 AM PST US
    From: "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> I personally found the welding wire to be a little too flexible to allow me to confidently find the position. In the end I used a much stiffer 3mm brazing rod and eyeballed it using Neville's technique. To confirm the "eyeballed" position I found that a DIY stud finder also found the position of the rib quite accurately and, to be triply sure, a DIY pipe finder also confirmed the brazing rod tip position. (I needed a bit of re-assurance before drilling the leading edge possibly in the wrong place!!) Roger Mills Europa 141


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:10:51 AM PST US
    From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Fwd: Alternator Lamp
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net> If you can read German, here's some interesting info from Ducati on the regulator. Also has some schematics and a cross reference for the TP154E thryristor (2N6507). Bill A010 Classic Monowheel ----- Original Message ----- From: <SPurpura@aol.com> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:30 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: Alternator Lamp > --> Europa-List message posted by: SPurpura@aol.com > > A DUCATI FROM LOCKWOOD. > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:10:51 AM PST US
    From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Fwd: Alternator Lamp
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net> Sorry, Forgot to attach the URL..... If you can read German, here's some interesting info from Ducati on the regulator. Also has some schematics and a cross reference for the TP154E thryristor (2N6507). http://www.ducati.dk/teknik/MC_Elektro.pdf Bill A010 Classic Monowheel ----- Original Message ----- From: <SPurpura@aol.com> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:30 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: Alternator Lamp > --> Europa-List message posted by: SPurpura@aol.com > > A DUCATI FROM LOCKWOOD. > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:27:44 AM PST US
    From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
    Subject: Re: Fwd: Alternator Lamp
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr> Bill Henderson a crit : >Sorry, > >Forgot to attach the URL..... > >If you can read German, here's some interesting info from Ducati on the >regulator. Also has some schematics and a cross reference for the TP154E >thryristor (2N6507). > >http://www.ducati.dk/teknik/MC_Elektro.pdf > > > Bill, Interesting find. Unfortunately, it's not German, but Danish ;-) Much harder to translate. The schematic is not quite that of our rotax regulator. But it has some similarities. Regards, Gilles Thesee Grenoble, France http://contrails.free.fr


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:39:03 AM PST US
    From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
    Subject: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax?
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi> Jemmy, my only statement was: What so ever engine preheating is always valuable and something what wise man should do if necessary. And it is necessary when cold enough and he has not heated garage... It is like preplay with woman. Some do it and some never. My honest recommendation - get happier life. Regards, Raimo do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:34 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax? > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com> > > Teimo, > > A long-winded journey to the same conclusion :-) I concur - if preheating > means you can open the engine up sooner, it will get the cc to temp a little > sooner, and hence do more to save the environment! > > I suspect, though, that this one is a marginal saving - certainly when > compared to the environmental benefits of dropping a bomb on a suburban 4x4 > on every flight...! > > Cheers, > Jeremy > > Jeremy Davey > Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA > Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative > PFA EC Member > "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is > possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation." > Tail done > Standard XS wings with mods underway > CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings) > 1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves and > lack of workshop > Intended fit: > Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop > Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Raimo Toivio > Sent: 27 January 2006 10:21 > To: europa-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax? > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi> > > Jeremy, > > OK - of course you are technically right but same target. > When rich, catalytic converter cannot work as it should be. > In fact, it is possible to spoil it by a little but possibe amount of rare > petrol. And that is bad for your wallet and surrounding nature. > If preheated I am sure also cc gets earlier upp to operating temperature and > start to work sooner. When preheated, the engine idle time is usually > shorter and that is good for cc. > So, engine preheating also helps cc to save the world... > > Wishes, Raimo (not Teimo) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com> > To: <europa-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 8:09 PM > Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax? > > > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com> > > > > Hold on Teimo - much of that I'd agree with, but not the bit on the > > catalyst. > > > > The catalytic converter does not work until it gets up to temperature (in > > the hundreds of degrees), regardless of the initial temperature of the > > engine. Preheating the engine will not reduce pollution by making the cat > > work sooner - but it will reduce pollution some by reducing the length of > > time the engine is running rich ("on choke"). > > > > Regards, > > Jeremy > > > > Jeremy Davey > > Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA > > Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative > > PFA EC Member > > "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it > is > > possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation." > > Tail done > > Standard XS wings with mods underway > > CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings) > > 1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves and > > lack of workshop > > Intended fit: > > Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop > > Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Raimo Toivio > > Sent: 26 January 2006 15:57 > > To: europa-list@matronics.com > > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax? > > > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi> > > > > All (on the northern hemisphere)! > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net> > > To: <europa-list@matronics.com> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 3:40 AM > > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Pre-heating a Rotax? > > > > > > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net> > > > > > > Talked to Andy about winter operations the other day. He suggested that > > the > > > Rotax is built with tolerances similar to an automobile engine and > > therefore > > > really doesn't need preheated. After all, do you preheat your car? > > > > > > > Yes I really do! Always when below 0C. Also cockpit. > > > > Main factors: > > > > 1) preheated engine gives instantly heat for cockpit > > > > - safe: windows are immediately clean of ice and snow and no fog on them > > - comfort: +20C leather feels better than -20C leather and less clothing > > - health: no back injury for example > > > > 2) engine health: oil works immediately after start > > > > 3) fuel consumption: preheated car saves money > > > > - thumb of rule: cold engine takes extra fuel 2 dl > > or more in every cold start > > > > 4) pollution: less fuel - less pollution > > > > - catalysator did not work until the engine is warm > > > > 5) time tables: preheated car starts "always" like under the palm tree > > > > - if cold, have you enough el-power to start the stiff engine? > > - you can drive immediately, no warm-upp moms > > > > Sophisticated Engine Preheat Systems: > > > > - electric resistance element in water w thermostat connected to mains > > (typically 500W and 2 hrs pre-heating is enough for -20C) > > - programable and radio remote controlled heating system, > > burns petrol or diesel (Webasto, Ebersbacher...) > > (typically 2-5kW and 20 minutes is enough, needs also electric 50W) > > - also integrated battery pre-heating and charging systems > > - heated car garage, if possible (!) > > > > I have installed electric preheating system in my Rotax. > > I will keep it on ALWAYS when below +10C (in or out). > > It keeps also cockpit warm and dry (good for electronic bits). > > > > I have also water thermostat and heat exchanger in oil system. > > Cannot comment how they work - engine has not fire upp yet. > > > > Regards, Raimo > > =========== > > Raimo M W Toivio > > > > OH-XRT #417 XS Mono, building hrs 1400 so far > > OH-CVK C172 Skyhawk > > OH-BLL Beech C45 > > > > 37500 Lempaala > > Finland > > tel + 358 3 3753 777 > > fax + 358 3 3753 100 > > gsm + 358 40 590 1450 > > > > raimo.toivio@rwm.fi > > www.rwm.fi > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:04:12 AM PST US
    From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Fw: Sun-n-fun
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net> As info for anyone going to Sun-n-Fun this year. Didn't see Europa on the vendor list. Below is Andy's reply. Bill A010 ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Draper Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:10 AM Subject: RE: Sun-n-fun Dear Bill, We will be at Sun N Fun and can be found just outside Hangar C beside the pond. The stand number is AC-004. Hope to see you there. Regards Andy -----Original Message----- From: Bill Henderson [mailto:europabill@bellsouth.net] Sent: 29 January 2006 19:30 To: Andy Draper Subject: Sun-n-fun Andy, Just checked the Sun-n-Fun exibitor list and Europa's not on it.... Will Europa be at the event this year? Thanks, Bill A010 Classic Monowheel -- Virus scanned by Lumison.


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:11:34 AM PST US
    From: EuropaXSA276@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Fw: Sun-n-fun
    --> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA276@aol.com Any plans for a Europa meeting? Do not archive Brian Skelly Europa XS TriGear #A276 North Texas USA You can see my build photos at: www.europaowners.org/brians


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:58:17 AM PST US
    From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@YAHOO.COM>
    Subject: Re: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com> Thanks for that explanation. Here is a technique that I think might work better (assuming I understand it correctly). My wingtips have cutouts for the installation of nav lights at the leading egde. That gives me access to the ribs in front of the spar. The rib we are looking for is the second one from the tip. The first one (and presumably all) have small holes for pressure equalization. I can push a long wooden dowel through the first rib until it hits the second rib, and get an exact measure of its distance from the tip. Then I transfer that distance (minus 0.5" for the flange) along the leading edge and drill the hole. Does that sound right? I could not find Neville's posting in the archives on using a light bulb to locate the distance. If anyone can send me a reference, I would appreciate it. Thanks. --- Roger Mills <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> wrote: > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Mills" > <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> > > I personally found the welding wire to be a little too flexible to > allow me > to confidently find the position. In the end I used a much stiffer > 3mm > brazing rod and eyeballed it using Neville's technique. To confirm > the > "eyeballed" position I found that a DIY stud finder also found the > position > of the rib quite accurately and, to be triply sure, a DIY pipe finder > also > confirmed the brazing rod tip position. (I needed a bit of > re-assurance > before drilling the leading edge possibly in the wrong place!!) > > Roger Mills > > Europa 141 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Andrew Sarangan http://www.sarangan.org


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:48:46 AM PST US
    From: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
    Subject: scratches
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com> All Can you polish scrathches out of the 'glass' supplied with the europa ( is it perspex / polycarbonate?)? If you can what with ? Regards Paul G-GIDY


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:24:44 AM PST US
    From: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees01@tiscali.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: scratches
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees01@tiscali.co.uk> Hi Paul we had some pretty deep scratches on our screen - I got them out using Novus - can't even tell they were there now. Think I got mine from 'Pinball heaven' - about 6 or so. Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Stewart" <europa@pstewart.f2s.com> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 6:46 PM Subject: Europa-List: scratches > --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com> > > All > > Can you polish scrathches out of the 'glass' supplied with the europa ( > is it perspex / polycarbonate?)? If you can what with ? > > Regards > > Paul > G-GIDY > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 11:25:44 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: scratches
    From: Dave_Miller@avivacanada.com
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Dave_Miller@avivacanada.com Paul, Check out the aircraftspruce.com site, search under Polish, some of the items listed should work OK Dave C-FBZI do not archive Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com> Sent by: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com 01/30/2006 01:46 PM Please respond to europa-list To: "europa-list@matronics.com" <europa-list@matronics.com> cc: Subject: Europa-List: scratches --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com> All Can you polish scrathches out of the 'glass' supplied with the europa ( is it perspex / polycarbonate?)? If you can what with ? Regards Paul G-GIDY


    Message 13


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    Time: 01:06:27 PM PST US
    Subject: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency
    From: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com>
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com> Folks, Does anyone know (or can make a reasonable guess at) what the resonant frequency of a classic engine mount + 912 + prop is? I realise all aircraft will be different but I'm just after a rough figure. Thanks, Mark Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8245#8245


    Message 14


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    Time: 01:46:06 PM PST US
    From: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> On which axis?! Duncan McF do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 8:57 PM Subject: Europa-List: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com> > > Folks, > > Does anyone know (or can make a reasonable guess at) what the resonant > frequency of a classic engine mount + 912 + prop is? > > I realise all aircraft will be different but I'm just after a rough > figure. > > Thanks, > > Mark > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8245#8245 > > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 02:00:43 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wanted: Classic Engine Mount Resonant Frequency
    From: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com>
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Mark Burton" <markb@ordern.com> Up/down or left/right but probably not forward/backwards! The question could be restated as: if I was cruel enough to hit my engine with a big hammer. What frequency can I expect it to wobble at! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8254#8254


    Message 16


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    Time: 02:00:44 PM PST US
    From: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
    Subject: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com> Andrew, There was quite a thread on this topic some time back. I posted once or twice on how to do the mod using tape and a bright lamp - if you search on me you should find the thread and can get the rest from there. Kind regards, Jeremy Jeremy Davey Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative PFA EC Member "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation." Tail done Standard XS wings with mods underway CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings) 1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves and lack of workshop Intended fit: Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan Sent: 30 January 2006 17:56 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question --> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com> Thanks for that explanation. Here is a technique that I think might work better (assuming I understand it correctly). My wingtips have cutouts for the installation of nav lights at the leading egde. That gives me access to the ribs in front of the spar. The rib we are looking for is the second one from the tip. The first one (and presumably all) have small holes for pressure equalization. I can push a long wooden dowel through the first rib until it hits the second rib, and get an exact measure of its distance from the tip. Then I transfer that distance (minus 0.5" for the flange) along the leading edge and drill the hole. Does that sound right? I could not find Neville's posting in the archives on using a light bulb to locate the distance. If anyone can send me a reference, I would appreciate it. Thanks. --- Roger Mills <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> wrote: > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Mills" > <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> > > I personally found the welding wire to be a little too flexible to > allow me to confidently find the position. In the end I used a much > stiffer 3mm brazing rod and eyeballed it using Neville's technique. To > confirm the "eyeballed" position I found that a DIY stud finder also > found the position of the rib quite accurately and, to be triply sure, > a DIY pipe finder also confirmed the brazing rod tip position. (I > needed a bit of re-assurance before drilling the leading edge possibly > in the wrong place!!) > > Roger Mills > > Europa 141 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Andrew Sarangan http://www.sarangan.org


    Message 17


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    Time: 02:33:48 PM PST US
    From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co>
    Subject: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner
    question --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co> This was the technique I used on the advice of - oh bugger I can't remember. A strong inspection lamp above will show you where the rib is. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Davey Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 16:59 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com> Andrew, There was quite a thread on this topic some time back. I posted once or twice on how to do the mod using tape and a bright lamp - if you search on me you should find the thread and can get the rest from there. Kind regards, Jeremy Jeremy Davey Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative PFA EC Member "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation." Tail done Standard XS wings with mods underway CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings) 1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves and lack of workshop Intended fit: Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan Sent: 30 January 2006 17:56 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 61 - Stall warner questionMod 61 - Stall warner question --> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com> Thanks for that explanation. Here is a technique that I think might work better (assuming I understand it correctly). My wingtips have cutouts for the installation of nav lights at the leading egde. That gives me access to the ribs in front of the spar. The rib we are looking for is the second one from the tip. The first one (and presumably all) have small holes for pressure equalization. I can push a long wooden dowel through the first rib until it hits the second rib, and get an exact measure of its distance from the tip. Then I transfer that distance (minus 0.5" for the flange) along the leading edge and drill the hole. Does that sound right? I could not find Neville's posting in the archives on using a light bulb to locate the distance. If anyone can send me a reference, I would appreciate it. Thanks. --- Roger Mills <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> wrote: > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Roger Mills" > <Roger.Mills@btinternet.com> > > I personally found the welding wire to be a little too flexible to > allow me to confidently find the position. In the end I used a much > stiffer 3mm brazing rod and eyeballed it using Neville's technique. To > confirm the "eyeballed" position I found that a DIY stud finder also > found the position of the rib quite accurately and, to be triply sure, > a DIY pipe finder also confirmed the brazing rod tip position. (I > needed a bit of re-assurance before drilling the leading edge possibly > in the wrong place!!) > > Roger Mills > > Europa 141 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Andrew Sarangan http://www.sarangan.org


    Message 18


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    Time: 03:58:46 PM PST US
    From: "karelvranken" <karelvranken@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Fwd: Alternator Lamp
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "karelvranken" <karelvranken@hotmail.com> Bill, Must be a skandinavian language. German, Dutch, English, French, OK but that's all I can read and understand. Karel Vranken ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:09 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: Alternator Lamp >


    Message 19


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    Time: 05:12:09 PM PST US
    From: Rman <topglock@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Fw: Sun-n-fun
    --> Europa-List message posted by: Rman <topglock@cox.net> The Wife and I will be attending. Hope to meet other Europaphiles. Also hoping Andy is successful in getting us a Europa specific parking area... Jeff - N55XS 137 hours... EuropaXSA276@aol.com wrote: > --> Europa-List message posted by: EuropaXSA276@aol.com > > Any plans for a Europa meeting? > > Do not archive > Brian Skelly > Europa XS TriGear #A276 > North Texas USA > You can see my build photos at: > www.europaowners.org/brians > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 20


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    Time: 06:29:50 PM PST US
    From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: scratches
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net> Paul I did a small scratched spot. (I won't tell you to use better tape around the edges of the windscreen.) I used a kit from Aircraft Spruce made just for the job. I just looked up the part number P/N 09-24700 . You will find it in the "Plexiglas restoration - polishes" section. Cliff Shaw 1041 Euclid ave. Edmonds, WA 98020 425 776 5555 http://www.europaowners.org/WileE ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Stewart To: europa-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:46 AM Subject: Europa-List: scratches --> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com> All Can you polish scrathches out of the 'glass' supplied with the europa ( is it perspex / polycarbonate?)? If you can what with ? Regards Paul G-GIDY


    Message 21


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    Time: 09:04:20 PM PST US
    Subject: Rotax HD Starter output (Watts)
    From: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
    --> Europa-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us> Anyone know how many watts a Rotax HD starter is? Or how many amps it draws? The older starter is 600 watts according to the install manual, and Lockwood said that the HD draws less than the old style, but dosen't know how much. I was only able to get "Less thasn 100 amps" Thx. Ron Parigoris


    Message 22


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    Time: 11:35:19 PM PST US
    From: "William Mills" <william@wrmills.plus.com>
    Subject: Re: Rotax regulator
    --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills" <william@wrmills.plus.com> Hi Gilles, Do you consider the Rotax regulator could develop an intermittent fault so that it is not always charging at full capacity? I have noticed in flight that sometimes the voltmeter drops to about 13 V and other times it stays at 14 V (13.8, I presume). Last time I brought the aircraft home the battery was not full charged and needed some time on the charger to top it up. The battery is an Odyssey PC680 and is only one year old. Many thanks, William ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gilles Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr> Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 9:41 PM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator > --> Europa-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee > <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr> > > Hi Richard, > >>> What if it doesn't tame >>>the regulator output ? >>> >>> >> >>Is there some way of checking this ? Perhaps on your >>student's test rig ? >> >> >> > Hmm, remember that was two years ago. I'm afraid the alternator might > now lie on a forgotten shelf... > >>>Have you considered including a relay in the B/R to bus >>>circuit ? Bob Nuckolls' Aeroelectric figure Z 16 could >>>be of interest. My design is a variation on Bob's >>>theme, with small changes due to the different >>>regulator. >>> >>> >> >>I just didn't want to use a physical switch/cb/relay to go >>from an overvolt situation of maybe 30 A to nothing. >> >> It >>would not be good for the switch/cb/relay, IF >>disconnecting the C terminal turns off the regulator then >>there will be no actual disconnection spark anywhere, >> > Grounding the C wire will shut down the regulator. That is, IF it is > working properly. But then where does that OV condition come from ? > >>>The C wire is a sense wire, so AWG 22 and 5 amps is >>>about right. >>> >>> >> >>5 amps actual seems like a lot for a sense wire. That >>means that the regulator B+/R terminals produce up to 24A >>of which 5A goes back into the regulator ? >> >> > 5 amps is the usual CB rating for AWG 22 wire. And for mechanical > reasons, AWG 22 is about the smallest wire used for wiring light aircraft. > Remember, if your crowbar fires, the current will flow from the bus bar > via the OV CB, to the ground, tripping the CB in the process. > >>I have seen your fine pictures of the cleaned out >>regulator. It appears that B+ and R are connected together >>inside anyway ! >> >> > Yes > >>Could you send me the schematic of the circuit inside there ? >> >> > Will do. Just give me some time to sort the 40+ MB of data Jerome just > sent me. I would like to publish something really up to date. > >>I have a friend who dabbles in obscure components. He >>looked up TP154E. It is a Thrystor 800 volt 25 A 40mA and >>an alternative would be 2N6509 which in my catalogue is >>about 1 GBP - say 2 euros ! >> >> > Great ! > Thank you, > Gilles > http://contrails.free.fr > > > -- > 25/01/2006 > >




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