Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:43 AM - Re: Re: Rotax regulator (Brian Davies)
2. 02:07 AM - Re: Subject: Monowheel Tire & Tube life (Michel Auvray)
3. 02:24 AM - Re: Multiple Messages. (Trevpond@aol.com)
4. 02:36 AM - Re: Multiple Messages. (Robert Hitchcock)
5. 07:43 AM - Re: Multiple Messages. (R.C.Harrison)
6. 08:29 AM - Re: Multiple Messages. (Fixed!) (Vaughn & Gaye Teegarden)
7. 10:06 AM - paints (Paul Stewart)
8. 12:09 PM - Kick back is back (Rmi Guerner)
9. 12:39 PM - Re: Kick back is back (ivor.phillips)
10. 12:40 PM - Re: Kick back is back (NEEL Jean Philippe)
11. 12:55 PM - Re: Kick back is back (Gilles Thesee)
12. 01:02 PM - Re: Kick back is back (Richard Holder)
13. 01:55 PM - Re: Kick back is back (Paul McAllister)
14. 03:54 PM - Re: Kick back is back (R.C.Harrison)
15. 04:36 PM - Oil Changes (MJKTuck@cs.com)
16. 05:30 PM - Classic Wing Repair Needed (Troy Maynor)
17. 05:31 PM - Re: Classic with Skydrive Carb Heat (Troy Maynor)
18. 06:24 PM - Re: Classic Wing Repair Needed (Paul McAllister)
19. 07:05 PM - Re: Oil Changes (Steve Hagar)
20. 10:52 PM - Re: Re: Rotax regulator (William Mills)
21. 10:52 PM - Re: Kick back is back (NEEL Jean Philippe)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax regulator |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
William,
It depends what you are trying to achieve. If the contact/connection is
just dirty or greasy the contact cleaner will be fine. It evaporates very
quickly leaving no residue. If the contact/connection is corroded it will
not help. You need to mechanically remove all corrosion before making the
connection.
If you are worried about future contamination or corrosion after having made
a good connection, Richard's suggestion of using a small smear of Vaseline
or silicone grease will work. If you want to seal the connection permanently
from the elements you could cover it in RTV/ silicone bath sealant.
Hope this helps
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Mills
Sent: 04 February 2006 18:09
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
--> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills"
<william@wrmills.plus.com>
Many thanks Brian and Richard; message taken. What about switch or contact
cleaner in the aerosol cans?
B w
W
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
>
> Hi William,
> A smear of grease might be Ok after you have connected the earth terminals
> but not before. You want the best possible electrical contact and this
> requires a chemically clean joint- grease on the contact face is not good.
>
> Brian Davies kit 454
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Mills
> Sent: 03 February 2006 10:02
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills"
> <william@wrmills.plus.com>
>
> Many thanks, Hans,
> I will certainly do that.
> I was hoping one of the experts would comment on my suggestion to put a
> smear of grease on all the earthing terminals to improve contact and
> prevent
>
> corrosion.
> Best wishes,
> William
>
> Do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "hans jrgen danielsen" <hansjd@online.no>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>
>
>> --> Europa-List message posted by:
>> =?iso-8859-1?Q?hans_j=F8rgen_danielsen?= <hansjd@online.no>
>>
>> Hi William
>>
>> It might be a good idea - if you havn't done so already - to check the
>> grounding wire(s) and connections from the rectifier housing. Poor
>> connections in this area will certainly ruin your day!
>>
>> Best wishes, Hans - hansjd@online.no
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "William Mills" <william@wrmills.plus.com>
>> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 7:26 AM
>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>>
>>
>>> --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills"
>>> <william@wrmills.plus.com>
>>>
>>> Thanks John and Gilles,
>>> I'm afraid I don't have a schematic, but I have several hundred hours
>>> with
>>> the same loading regime and I have noticed a change in the readings on
>>> the
>>> VDO voltmeter over the past 3 months or so. It is also intermittent. I
>>> will check all my connections, however. Would a smear of grease help to
>>> maintain a good connection?
>>> B w,
>>> William
>>>
>>> Do not archive
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Gilles Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>>> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:57 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> Europa-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee
>>>> <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>>>>
>>>> William Mills a crit :
>>>>
>>>>>Do you consider the Rotax regulator could develop an intermittent fault
>>>>>so
>>>>>that it is not always charging at full capacity? I have noticed in
>>>>>flight
>>>>>that sometimes the voltmeter drops to about 13 V and other times it
>>>>>stays
>>>>>at
>>>>>14 V (13.8, I presume). Last time I brought the aircraft home the
>>>>>battery
>>>>>was not full charged and needed some time on the charger to top it up.
>>>>>The
>>>>>battery is an Odyssey PC680 and is only one year old.
>>>>>Many thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Richard and all,
>>>>
>>>> It would be interesting to study what electrical devices are on, and
>>>> what the engine RPM are, versus voltmeter readings. It is normal to see
>>>> the bus voltage drop when the current draw is high. It also depends on
>>>> the battery state of charge.
>>>>
>>>> Now, if there is a problem, yes the regulator could be the culprit, but
>>>> there are so many other causes to investigate.
>>>> Frequent problems are faulty wiring, especially the connection between
>>>> the regulator case and the ship's ground. Remember your 14-18 charging
>>>> amps flow through this connection.
>>>> Every connection in the circuit should be checked for tightness,
>>>> absence
>>>> of corrosion, correct wire gauge, etc.
>>>> Also, you need a thorough load analysis in order to be sure your
>>>> permanent draw does not exceed 10-12 amps. And remember the alternator
>>>> delivers power when RPM is sufficient, that is around 5000 RPM.
>>>>
>>>> Do you have a schematic of your aircraft circuit ?
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Gilles Thesee
>>>> Grenoble, France
>>>> http://contrails.free.fr
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> 27/01/2006
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
--
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Monowheel Tire & Tube life |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Michel Auvray" <mau11@free.fr>
Bonjour Rmi,
Ou as tu achet ton pneu Mc Creary 800 6/6?
En est-tu satisfait, est ce que la pression supplmentaire 30 au lieu de 24 psi
n'est pa s trop dure l'amortissement roulage atterrissage?
Merci
bientt,
======= le 16/01/2006, 21:14:30 vous criviez: =======
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rmi Guerner" <air.guerner@wanadoo.fr>
>
>
> Paul,
>
>The max pressure mentioned on my original tyre was 24 PSI. As I was not confident
in the strength of this tyre and wanted to increase that pressure, I replace
it by a Mac Creary Air Trac 8.00-6/6 after 150 hours. I had to keep the
original tube as the valve of the new tube I bought from ACS was incompatible
with the Europa wheel. I inflate now at 30 PSI. The new tire and increased pressure
greatly improves handling on both hard and grass runways. It also increases
slightly the prop clearance. I have now 378 hours. The tyre does not show
any sign of wear.
>
>
>Remi Guerner
>F-PGKL, S/N395 XS monowheel, 288 hours on a 914 + 90 hours since fitted with
the 912S, Airmaster prop ordered.
>
>
>
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
>I am wondering how folks are making out with Monowheel tires and tube life.
>If I keep the tube inflation in the 18~20 psi then I find that it is really
>tough on the tubes. Yesterday I had my second tube failure while on
>landing. If you have ever had this happen is tough going, it is impossible
>to move the aircraft by hand.
>
>At this stage I am thinking of changing my tubes every 100 hours, but I am
>wondering about the tire. The tire I have now has 370 hours on it and it
>still has tread, how ever its obvious that the side walls have been weakened
>by the constant running at low pressure, so perhaps I need to change it more
>often as well. Thoughts ?
>
>Paul
>N378PJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
= = = = = = = = = ========= = = = = = = = = =
Michel Auvray
mau11@free.fr
05/02/2006
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Multiple Messages. |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Trevpond@aol.com
In a message dated 05/02/2006 00:21:52 GMT Standard Time,
ivor.phillips@ntlworld.com writes:
Coming in by the boatload!!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Parkin" <mikenjulie.parkin@btopenworld.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 9:46 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Multiple Messages.
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike Parkin"
> <mikenjulie.parkin@btopenworld.com>
>
> Is any one getting multiple messages from David Joyce - or is it my PC.
>
274 to date!!!
Trev Pond
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Multiple Messages. |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Robert Hitchcock" <robert.hitchcock@virgin.net>
Me too, very anoying, have just blocked him
Regards
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Parkin" <mikenjulie.parkin@btopenworld.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 9:46 PM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Europa-List: Multiple Messages.
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike Parkin"
> <mikenjulie.parkin@btopenworld.com>
>
> Is any one getting multiple messages from David Joyce - or is it my PC.
>
> regards,
>
> Mike
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Multiple Messages. |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
OK Mike
I've had hundreds I think it must be either at David's end or the server
somewhere.
Regards
Bob h
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Parkin
Sent: 04 February 2006 21:46
Subject: Europa-List: Multiple Messages.
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike Parkin"
<mikenjulie.parkin@btopenworld.com>
Is any one getting multiple messages from David Joyce - or is it my PC.
regards,
Mike
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Multiple Messages. (Fixed!) |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Vaughn & Gaye Teegarden" <N914VA@starband.net>
I'm sure that you can all read the message below sent Feb 4.
End of discussion.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Multiple Messages. (Fixed!)
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>
> At 01:46 PM 2/4/2006 Saturday, you wrote:
>>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike Parkin"
>><mikenjulie.parkin@btopenworld.com>
>>
>>Is any one getting multiple messages from David Joyce - or is it my PC.
>>
>>regards,
>>
>>Mike
>
> Crimy sakes! Sorry for all the reposts of the Voltage Regulator Message.
> Seems that David Joyce's ISP has gone berserk and is resending the same
> message to the List over and over and over again. I've unsubscribed him
> from the List which has calmed things down finally. I finally got things
> fixed about 2pm PDT Saturday 2/4/06. You might still get a few more
> trickle in over the next couple of hours, but the worse of it is over I
> think...
>
> Sorry for the hassle!
>
> Matt Dralle
> List Admin
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
Message 7
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
Anyone know what the VOC content of the 2 pack paints most of us are
using is? Possibly more worrying - anyone know what the impact of
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si2005/20052773.htm is going to be. It
seems to suggest to me ( and the guy spaying our project for us ) that
we may not be able to get hold of poyester 2 pack after jan 07 .
Regards
Paul Stewart
G-GIDY
Message 8
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| Subject: | Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rmi Guerner" <air.guerner@wanadoo.fr>
In spite of having the heavy duty starter, a 6 months old 28 Amp-hour battery,
an ignition switch wired so that only one channel is energized during starting,
pulling the choke only after a few prop turns, I experienced the infamous kick
back again last week, during a few degrees above freezing cold start.
To help solving this problem, I am thinking at replacing the low cost battery by
a high performance one such as the Odyssey or Genesis. Any suggestion on where
to find this sort of batteries in Europe ?
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 288 hours on a 914 + 91 hours since fitted with
the 912S. Airmaster prop ordered
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips@ntlworld.com>
Hi Remi
I got mine Odyssey pc 680 from
http://www.knightbatteries.com/
Ivor Phillips
> To help solving this problem, I am thinking at replacing the low cost
> battery by a high performance one such as the Odyssey or Genesis. Any
> suggestion on where to find this sort of batteries in Europe ?
>
> Remi Guerner
Message 10
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| Subject: | Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel@yahoo.fr>
Salut Remi
S'agit il de battements generants des vibrations importantes empechant le demarrage?
JP Neel F-PSLH 650h
Rmi Guerner <air.guerner@wanadoo.fr> a crit :
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rmi Guerner"
In spite of having the heavy duty starter, a 6 months old 28 Amp-hour battery,
an ignition switch wired so that only one channel is energized during starting,
pulling the choke only after a few prop turns, I experienced the infamous kick
back again last week, during a few degrees above freezing cold start.
To help solving this problem, I am thinking at replacing the low cost battery by
a high performance one such as the Odyssey or Genesis. Any suggestion on where
to find this sort of batteries in Europe ?
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 288 hours on a 914 + 91 hours since fitted with the
912S. Airmaster prop ordered
---------------------------------
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
NEEL Jean Philippe a crit :
>--> Europa-List message posted by: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel@yahoo.fr>
>
>Salut Remi
> S'agit il de battements generants des vibrations importantes empechant le demarrage?
>
>
>
I believe kickback is English for "retour". The prop is thrown backwards
a few degrees, or even a turn or so.
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Holder <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
> In spite of having the heavy duty starter, a 6 months
> old 28 Amp-hour battery, an ignition switch wired so
> that only one channel is energized during starting,
> pulling the choke only after a few prop turns, I
> experienced the infamous kick back again last week,
> during a few degrees above freezing cold start.
>
> To help solving this problem, I am thinking at
> replacing the low cost battery by a high performance
> one such as the Odyssey or Genesis. Any suggestion on
> where to find this sort of batteries in Europe ?
>
> Remi Guerner
>
I also have had two instances of kickback on the first
turn of the starter switch. But they were 2 degree C days so
I thought it was OK. If it happens during the summer I
will be concerned !
Do you turn the engine over a few blades by hand first
(MAGS OFF !) to reduce the friction level in there ?
I am not sure about only putting one magneto on at start
time. If this IS of benefit perhaps you could try changing
over the earth connections under the cowling to see if the
magneto you are NOT using should really be the one you ARE
using.
My battery is a 12 AHr Red Top and when I fitted it 18
months ago in place of the 17 AHr normal type battery it
made not a fraction of difference to the non-starting I
was experiencing then.
Richard
Message 13
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| Subject: | Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Remi,
I am afraid to tell you this but I replaced my cheap battery with an Odyssey
and it made absolutely no difference to my kick back problems.
Winters in the mid west of the US are very cold, and I will often fly on
days of minus 10c to minus 15c. I put an engine pre heater on my Rotax and
I didn't get a kick back all winter.
Paul
Message 14
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| Subject: | Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
Hi! Remi
Jerry Davis of Linhurst Touchdown my help with the battery he has the
"Red Top" which is comparable with the Odyssey. LTS@avnet.co.uk
I'm not a Rotax "Buff" but "me thinks" you may be into sprag clutch
problems?
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru3000
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rmi Guerner
Sent: 05 February 2006 20:05
Subject: Europa-List: Kick back is back
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rmi Guerner"
<air.guerner@wanadoo.fr>
In spite of having the heavy duty starter, a 6 months old 28 Amp-hour
battery, an ignition switch wired so that only one channel is energized
during starting, pulling the choke only after a few prop turns, I
experienced the infamous kick back again last week, during a few degrees
above freezing cold start.
To help solving this problem, I am thinking at replacing the low cost
battery by a high performance one such as the Odyssey or Genesis. Any
suggestion on where to find this sort of batteries in Europe ?
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 288 hours on a 914 + 91 hours since
fitted with the 912S. Airmaster prop ordered
Message 15
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--> Europa-List message posted by: MJKTuck@cs.com
Hi Folks,
Time to change the oil again. In the past I have cleaned out and refilled the
main oil tank and changed the oil filter - having been told it wasn't worth
trying to empty the entire system. I half filled the new filter cartridge
before putting it on. In the past I have then use a small hand pump to pressurize
the main tank and then turned the prop a few times - I guess the instructions
call for this when first filling the system so I have always done this when I
change the oil. I have to wonder if it is worth the effort?
What does everyone else do when changing the oil? I have a regular 912UL.
Regards,
Martin Tuck
Europa N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
Message 16
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| Subject: | Classic Wing Repair Needed |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Hi All,
I'm seeking advice about classic wings. Yesterday I was giving the wings a
once-over again before putting the remaining coats of smooth prime. I was
checking if anything else needed sanding. On the starboard wing, about 2
feet from the root and about 1 foot from the leading edge on the bottom of
the wing I noticed a small raised spot about 1 or 1 1/2" that was not there
before. I know, because I had already sanded it smooth and had two coats of
primer and had sanded a little of it back off, and was fairly satisfied that
all was complete. It appears for some reason that it has delaminated on this
one spot. I took my spline with some 120 gt and got it back level again
without getting into the glass. It still has some Super-fil on it. If you
mash on it, it gives slightly to the push in an area about 1 inch or so. My
question is; should I grind a big ole place out down to the foam, which
seems scary to me, and lay up a few plies of bid? Or should I inject (using
a big ole syringe I have) some pure epoxy through a small hole into the soft
spot? Or should I inject a little epoxy/micro slurry into the area and see
how it feels after it cures? There isn't anything in this area such as
controls tubes or wiring conduits or the like. I can't figure out how it
happened. The wings have been built for 10 years or so. I have kept them in
recent years in a vertical sling made of carpet connected to 2 x 4s, much
like the transporter. This is the only irregularity I have seen. Any
thoughts or advice you all can offer?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, some wiring.
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE: Classic with Skydrive Carb Heat |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Hi All,
Thanks to all of you who responded to my query about fitting the Skydrive
carb heat to a classic FWF. Most was positive, so I am confident it will
work. In my case,barely. Thanks again. This forum is a great resource.
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Classic Wing Repair Needed |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Troy,
I am not expert, having only build one aircraft, but it is was mine I would
remove the whole area and re glass. You can find spots that are a potential
for delaminating by bouncing a coin on its edge over any suspect areas, it
will sound hollow if it has de laminated. Now is the time to find all these
spots rather than after its painted.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Troy Maynor
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 7:26 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Classic Wing Repair Needed
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Hi All,
I'm seeking advice about classic wings. Yesterday I was giving the wings a
once-over again before putting the remaining coats of smooth prime. I was
checking if anything else needed sanding. On the starboard wing, about 2
feet from the root and about 1 foot from the leading edge on the bottom of
the wing I noticed a small raised spot about 1 or 1 1/2" that was not there
before. I know, because I had already sanded it smooth and had two coats of
primer and had sanded a little of it back off, and was fairly satisfied that
all was complete. It appears for some reason that it has delaminated on this
one spot. I took my spline with some 120 gt and got it back level again
without getting into the glass. It still has some Super-fil on it. If you
mash on it, it gives slightly to the push in an area about 1 inch or so. My
question is; should I grind a big ole place out down to the foam, which
seems scary to me, and lay up a few plies of bid? Or should I inject (using
a big ole syringe I have) some pure epoxy through a small hole into the soft
spot? Or should I inject a little epoxy/micro slurry into the area and see
how it feels after it cures? There isn't anything in this area such as
controls tubes or wiring conduits or the like. I can't figure out how it
happened. The wings have been built for 10 years or so. I have kept them in
recent years in a vertical sling made of carpet connected to 2 x 4s, much
like the transporter. This is the only irregularity I have seen. Any
thoughts or advice you all can offer?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, some wiring.
Message 19
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
Martin:
Ths is from Eric Tucker the guy from Kodiac research who gives the 3 day
Rotax class/seminar.
1. Drain engine / tank
2. Fill filter half full, don't put on.
3. Put 3 liters in tank
4 Turn prop till oil comes out of oil filter base boss.
5 Install filter
6 Verify oil pressure by proping or motoring engine without ignition before
putting back in service.
He also recommends that at 100 hr insp. the oil tank is taken apart and
cleaned.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa AZ
Steve Hagar
hagargs@earthlink.net
> [Original Message]
> From: <MJKTuck@cs.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 2/5/2006 5:42:07 PM
> Subject: Europa-List: Oil Changes
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: MJKTuck@cs.com
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Time to change the oil again. In the past I have cleaned out and refilled
the
> main oil tank and changed the oil filter - having been told it wasn't
worth
> trying to empty the entire system. I half filled the new filter cartridge
> before putting it on. In the past I have then use a small hand pump to
pressurize
> the main tank and then turned the prop a few times - I guess the
instructions
> call for this when first filling the system so I have always done this
when I
> change the oil. I have to wonder if it is worth the effort?
>
> What does everyone else do when changing the oil? I have a regular 912UL.
>
> Regards,
> Martin Tuck
> Europa N152MT
> Wichita, Kansas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax regulator |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills" <william@wrmills.plus.com>
Many thanks, Brian,
I have had some cold weather starting probs plus the intermittent no
charging (I think), so while it is at home I thought I would do as much as
possible to improve whatever I can.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 8:49 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
>
> William,
>
> It depends what you are trying to achieve. If the contact/connection is
> just dirty or greasy the contact cleaner will be fine. It evaporates very
> quickly leaving no residue. If the contact/connection is corroded it will
> not help. You need to mechanically remove all corrosion before making the
> connection.
>
> If you are worried about future contamination or corrosion after having
> made
> a good connection, Richard's suggestion of using a small smear of Vaseline
> or silicone grease will work. If you want to seal the connection
> permanently
> from the elements you could cover it in RTV/ silicone bath sealant.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Brian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Mills
> Sent: 04 February 2006 18:09
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills"
> <william@wrmills.plus.com>
>
> Many thanks Brian and Richard; message taken. What about switch or
> contact
> cleaner in the aerosol cans?
> B w
> W
>
> Do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 10:53 AM
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>
>
>> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Brian Davies" <bdavies@dircon.co.uk>
>>
>> Hi William,
>> A smear of grease might be Ok after you have connected the earth
>> terminals
>> but not before. You want the best possible electrical contact and this
>> requires a chemically clean joint- grease on the contact face is not
>> good.
>>
>> Brian Davies kit 454
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
>> Mills
>> Sent: 03 February 2006 10:02
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>>
>> --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills"
>> <william@wrmills.plus.com>
>>
>> Many thanks, Hans,
>> I will certainly do that.
>> I was hoping one of the experts would comment on my suggestion to put a
>> smear of grease on all the earthing terminals to improve contact and
>> prevent
>>
>> corrosion.
>> Best wishes,
>> William
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "hans jrgen danielsen" <hansjd@online.no>
>> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:00 PM
>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>>
>>
>>> --> Europa-List message posted by:
>>> =?iso-8859-1?Q?hans_j=F8rgen_danielsen?= <hansjd@online.no>
>>>
>>> Hi William
>>>
>>> It might be a good idea - if you havn't done so already - to check the
>>> grounding wire(s) and connections from the rectifier housing. Poor
>>> connections in this area will certainly ruin your day!
>>>
>>> Best wishes, Hans - hansjd@online.no
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "William Mills" <william@wrmills.plus.com>
>>> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 7:26 AM
>>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills"
>>>> <william@wrmills.plus.com>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks John and Gilles,
>>>> I'm afraid I don't have a schematic, but I have several hundred hours
>>>> with
>>>> the same loading regime and I have noticed a change in the readings on
>>>> the
>>>> VDO voltmeter over the past 3 months or so. It is also intermittent.
>>>> I
>>>> will check all my connections, however. Would a smear of grease help
>>>> to
>>>> maintain a good connection?
>>>> B w,
>>>> William
>>>>
>>>> Do not archive
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Gilles Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>>>> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:57 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Rotax regulator
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> --> Europa-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee
>>>>> <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>>>>>
>>>>> William Mills a crit :
>>>>>
>>>>>>Do you consider the Rotax regulator could develop an intermittent
>>>>>>fault
>>>>>>so
>>>>>>that it is not always charging at full capacity? I have noticed in
>>>>>>flight
>>>>>>that sometimes the voltmeter drops to about 13 V and other times it
>>>>>>stays
>>>>>>at
>>>>>>14 V (13.8, I presume). Last time I brought the aircraft home the
>>>>>>battery
>>>>>>was not full charged and needed some time on the charger to top it up.
>>>>>>The
>>>>>>battery is an Odyssey PC680 and is only one year old.
>>>>>>Many thanks,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> Richard and all,
>>>>>
>>>>> It would be interesting to study what electrical devices are on, and
>>>>> what the engine RPM are, versus voltmeter readings. It is normal to
>>>>> see
>>>>> the bus voltage drop when the current draw is high. It also depends on
>>>>> the battery state of charge.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now, if there is a problem, yes the regulator could be the culprit,
>>>>> but
>>>>> there are so many other causes to investigate.
>>>>> Frequent problems are faulty wiring, especially the connection between
>>>>> the regulator case and the ship's ground. Remember your 14-18 charging
>>>>> amps flow through this connection.
>>>>> Every connection in the circuit should be checked for tightness,
>>>>> absence
>>>>> of corrosion, correct wire gauge, etc.
>>>>> Also, you need a thorough load analysis in order to be sure your
>>>>> permanent draw does not exceed 10-12 amps. And remember the alternator
>>>>> delivers power when RPM is sufficient, that is around 5000 RPM.
>>>>>
>>>>> Do you have a schematic of your aircraft circuit ?
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>> Gilles Thesee
>>>>> Grenoble, France
>>>>> http://contrails.free.fr
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> 27/01/2006
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel@yahoo.fr>
Gilles
Faut il comprendre qu'en fin de phase demarrage l'helice serait capble d'un retour
arriere de quelques degrs voire d'un tour complet?
Cela me parait impossible! Il ne peut pas y avoir d'auto allumage dans cette
phase froid.
Par contre je connais bien le phenomene de couplage vibratoire et de battement
entre l'helice et le moteur en phase de demmarrage du au "slipper clutch" dont
le couple friction s'est affaiblit.
Classiquement le phenomene apparait par temps froid.
JP Neel F-PSLH
Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr> a crit :
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee
NEEL Jean Philippe a crit :
>--> Europa-List message posted by: NEEL Jean Philippe
>
>Salut Remi
> S'agit il de battements generants des vibrations importantes empechant le demarrage?
>
>
>
I believe kickback is English for "retour". The prop is thrown backwards
a few degrees, or even a turn or so.
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr
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