Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:45 AM - Re: Classic Wing Repair Needed (Kingsley Hurst)
2. 06:08 AM - Europas with no hanger.... (TERRY SMITH)
3. 06:11 AM - Re: Electrcal interference (Fred Fillinger)
4. 07:32 AM - Re: Europas with no hanger.... (Gert Dalgaard)
5. 12:45 PM - Kick back is back (Rmi Guerner)
6. 03:25 PM - Re: Electrcal interference (Duncan McFadyean)
7. 08:08 PM - Instrument panel and radio tray material (Michael Grass)
8. 11:01 PM - Re: Kick back is back (William Mills)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Classic Wing Repair Needed |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
Troy,
I was hoping Nev Eyre would come to your rescue here so while we wait to
hear from him, thought I would sympathise with you.
I had an identical bulge about 1" dia on the bottom of one of my wings too.
Mine was caused when I laid up a couple of plies of bid simultaneously on
the reinforced section trapping a little air pocket which I didn't see at
the time of lay-up. What made it worse was that I heated my workshop after
the lay-up to speed up the cure only to learn from this mistake. I have
discovered that whenever there is a small air pocket and the temp gets
elevated before cure, the air in the pocket expands and makes the bubble a
hell of a lot bigger. Having said this, I cannot understand how yours would
have happened after curing.
So I hope it makes you feel somewhat happier to know that you are not alone.
I drilled two small holes (about 1/16" or could have been 1/32") opposite
each other on the outsides of the bubble. I then injected pure epoxy with a
syringe into one hole until it came out the other. Using a bit of peel ply
and plastic sheeting as a release agent, I then covered the bubble and
weighted it down while it cured. It is still visible but I don't have the
high spot any more.
I am not putting this method forward as an approved solution, it is simply
what I did. If you would prefer to do an approved fibreglass repair, I
would suggest you contact a glider repairer to find out how to do a proper
scarf and the lay-ups. There is a repair procedure for this which is
different from anything we have done in construction.
Personally, with a bubble that small, I don't think there would be anything
to gain by going to the trouble of doing the proper repair procedure but I
could be wrong, I was once !
Good luck.
Kingsley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 11:26 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Classic Wing Repair Needed
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54@charter.net>
>
>
> Hi All,
> I'm seeking advice about classic wings. Yesterday I was giving the wings a
> once-over again before putting the remaining coats of smooth prime. I was
> checking if anything else needed sanding. On the starboard wing, about 2
> feet from the root and about 1 foot from the leading edge on the bottom of
> the wing I noticed a small raised spot about 1 or 1 1/2" that was not
> there
> before. I know, because I had already sanded it smooth and had two coats
> of
> primer and had sanded a little of it back off, and was fairly satisfied
> that
> all was complete. It appears for some reason that it has delaminated on
> this
> one spot. I took my spline with some 120 gt and got it back level again
> without getting into the glass. It still has some Super-fil on it. If you
> mash on it, it gives slightly to the push in an area about 1 inch or so.
> My
> question is; should I grind a big ole place out down to the foam, which
> seems scary to me, and lay up a few plies of bid? Or should I inject
> (using
> a big ole syringe I have) some pure epoxy through a small hole into the
> soft
> spot? Or should I inject a little epoxy/micro slurry into the area and see
> how it feels after it cures? There isn't anything in this area such as
> controls tubes or wiring conduits or the like. I can't figure out how it
> happened. The wings have been built for 10 years or so. I have kept them
> in
> recent years in a vertical sling made of carpet connected to 2 x 4s, much
> like the transporter. This is the only irregularity I have seen. Any
> thoughts or advice you all can offer?
>
> Troy Maynor
> N120EU Monowheel Classic
> Left to finish:
> Paint,interior,engine install, some wiring.
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Europas with no hanger.... |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "TERRY SMITH" <skyguard33-register@yahoo.co.uk>
I am looking to purchase a Europa but for the foreseeable future it may have to
live outside.
Is there any advice on precautions to take, covers to buy, how to tie down etc
etc.
Any experience on what weathers badly and needs to be checked frequently... etc
etc.
Many thanks,
Terry.
(Location - East Coast - UK)
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Electrcal interference |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu@comcast.net>
Steven Pitt wrote:
> ...
> I have an electric turn coordinator and it is noticeable
> that I get the sound of the giro in my headset (most of it
> can be squelched out) but it is most noticeable when I
> hold a handheld radio inside or outside the aircraft....
The little motor in the TC is causing all that? Perhaps
it's defective; I don't think I could duplicate that
phenomenon with my 18V portable power tools.
Google up: ferrite core "noise suppressor" You may have a
charger for a consumer device with one of these around the
wire. Try popping off the suppressor and testing it on the
14V and GND wire pair at the back of the gyro.
Reg,
Fred F.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Europas with no hanger.... |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gert Dalgaard <lgds@post6.tele.dk>
I have bought a cover from Jaksland.
Works just perfect.
Regards Gert
http://www.jaxida.dk/
Den 06/02/2006 kl. 15.08 skrev TERRY SMITH:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "TERRY SMITH" <skyguard33-
> register@yahoo.co.uk>
>
> I am looking to purchase a Europa but for the foreseeable future it
> may have to live outside.
>
> Is there any advice on precautions to take, covers to buy, how to
> tie down etc etc.
>
> Any experience on what weathers badly and needs to be checked
> frequently... etc etc.
>
> Many thanks,
>
>
> Terry.
> (Location - East Coast - UK)
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rmi Guerner" <air.guerner@wanadoo.fr>
Salut Jean Philippe,
Je repond en anglais pour que tous en profitent. C=E2=80=99est mieux, n=E2=80=99est
il pas ?
The infamous kick back happens when the first cylinder to ignite does so before
reaching top dead center (TDC =3D PMH in french) which is not unlikely with the
spark advance set, by design, at 4 degrees before TDC, and not adjustable.
Because the prop is driven through the slip clutch, there is no flywheel effect
and the crankshaft stops immediately. Then the prop uses its own inertia to
turn up to 30 degrees (slip clutch backlash) and violently hurts the dog. It is
so violent that it can damage your exhaust, carburettor flanges and engine
mount altogether, and possibly the engine itself. This happens mainly with the
bigger displacement and higher compression 912S, but I experienced it once or
twice with the 914 too. Rotax allegedly solved the issue with a more powerful
starter motor, but clearly the problem is still there with the new starter motor.
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 288 hours on a 914 + 91 hours since fitted with
the 912S.
From: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel@yahoo.fr>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Kick back is back
--> Europa-List message posted by: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel@yahoo.fr>
Salut Remi
S'agit il de battements generants des vibrations importantes empechant le demarrage?
JP Neel F-PSLH 650h
Rmi Guerner <air.guerner@wanadoo.fr> a crit :
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rmi Guerner"
In spite of having the heavy duty starter, a 6 months old 28 Amp-hour battery,
an ignition switch wired so that only one channel is energized during starting,
pulling the choke only after a few prop turns, I experienced the infamous kick
back again last week, during a few degrees above freezing cold start.
To help solving this problem, I am thinking at replacing the low cost battery by
a high performance one such as the Odyssey or Genesis. Any suggestion on where
to find this sort of batteries in Europe ?
Remi Guerner
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Electrcal interference |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
I have that 'problem' on two aircraft. But in both instances the noise has
been getting in directly to the microphone, possibly due to its frequency
and being very directionally sourced from close to the pilot's microphone.
You could disprove this theory by listening to the problem from outside of
the cockpit with the door closed (and headsets on and on the ground!)
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2@ntlworld.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Electrcal interference
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Steven Pitt"
> <steven.pitt2@ntlworld.com>
>
> Dear All
> I am just completing my panel and fired up everything (except engine) to
> check no sparks or failures.
> I have an electric turn coordinator and it is noticeable that I get the
> sound of the giro in my headset (most of it can be squelched out) but it
> is most noticeable when I hold a handheld radio inside or outside the
> aircraft (not plugged in to the aircraft electrics). Does anyone have a
> remedy / reason for this?
> Thanks
> Steve Pitt #403
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Instrument panel and radio tray material |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Michael Grass" <M.Grass@comcast.net>
Hi Group,
I like to query what others have done for the instrument panel. Which material
and what thickness did you use for the instrument panel front and the radio stack
/ radio tray mounting. It looks like when I am done cutting all those openings,
there will hardly be any material left, so I am not sure what should be
used here.
Thanks
Michael Grass
A266 Trigear
Detroit, Mi
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Kick back is back |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills" <william@wrmills.plus.com>
Remi, Jean Philippe, and All,
To try to minimise the effect Remi has described, I have developed a
technique as part of my pre-flight walk-around. When I get to the business
end, I turn the prop several times in the normal direction of rotation and
then when it feels freed-up, I rotate it backwards to meet the compression
and at the same time, take up the 30 degs slack in the slipper clutch. I am
sure this technique helps and the amount of reverse rotation is not enough
to affect the oil priming. The other action I took when I replaced my 912
with a 912S, was to increase the magneto gaps to 0.020" (from 0.016"), which
has the effect of slightly reducing the amount of retardation at tick-over,
but probably has a minimal effect at >4,000 RPM. It also makes the
tick-over run much more smoothly. The increase of magneto gap was not my
idea, but it came from a Brit with well over 1,000 hours in Europas. If
anyone knows why Rotax set the mags at 0.012 to 0.016, please let me know.
(Apart from selling more sprag clutches, of course!)
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rmi Guerner" <air.guerner@wanadoo.fr>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 8:38 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Kick back is back
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Rmi Guerner" <air.guerner@wanadoo.fr>
>
>
> Salut Jean Philippe,
>
> Je repond en anglais pour que tous en profitent. C=E2=80=99est mieux,
> n=E2=80=99est il pas ?
> The infamous kick back happens when the first cylinder to ignite does so
> before reaching top dead center (TDC =3D PMH in french) which is not
> unlikely with the spark advance set, by design, at 4 degrees before TDC,
> and not adjustable. Because the prop is driven through the slip clutch,
> there is no flywheel effect and the crankshaft stops immediately. Then the
> prop uses its own inertia to turn up to 30 degrees (slip clutch backlash)
> and violently hurts the dog. It is so violent that it can damage your
> exhaust, carburettor flanges and engine mount altogether, and possibly
> the engine itself. This happens mainly with the bigger displacement and
> higher compression 912S, but I experienced it once or twice with the 914
> too. Rotax allegedly solved the issue with a more powerful starter motor,
> but clearly the problem is still there with the new starter motor.
>
> Remi Guerner
>
> F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 288 hours on a 914 + 91 hours since fitted
> with the 912S.
>
>
> From: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel@yahoo.fr>
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Kick back is back
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: NEEL Jean Philippe
> <jeanphilippeneel@yahoo.fr>
>
> Salut Remi
> S'agit il de battements generants des vibrations importantes empechant le
> demarrage?
>
> JP Neel F-PSLH 650h
>
>
> Rmi Guerner <air.guerner@wanadoo.fr> a crit :
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Rmi Guerner"
>
>
> In spite of having the heavy duty starter, a 6 months old 28 Amp-hour
> battery,
> an ignition switch wired so that only one channel is energized during
> starting,
> pulling the choke only after a few prop turns, I experienced the infamous
> kick
> back again last week, during a few degrees above freezing cold start.
>
> To help solving this problem, I am thinking at replacing the low cost
> battery by
> a high performance one such as the Odyssey or Genesis. Any suggestion on
> where
> to find this sort of batteries in Europe ?
>
> Remi Guerner
>
>
> --
>
>
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