Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:15 AM - Paint dilemma (Simon Smith)
2. 11:42 AM - Re: Sun n Fun Identities (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
3. 11:43 AM - Re: Paint dilemma (Carl Pattinson)
4. 12:13 PM - Re: Paint dilemma (Tony Krzyzewski)
5. 12:17 PM - Re: Paint dilemma (MICHAEL PARKIN)
6. 12:18 PM - Re: Paint dilemma (Simon Smith)
7. 12:48 PM - Confessions of an amateur (Fergus Kyle)
8. 12:49 PM - Re: Paint dilemma (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
9. 01:00 PM - paint (JTHURSBY@tampabay.rr.com)
10. 01:30 PM - Re: Re: Propellers (Tim Ward)
11. 01:41 PM - Fuel Gauge (Tony Krzyzewski)
12. 01:51 PM - Flap Washout (Flying Farmer)
13. 01:52 PM - Re: Classic Exhaust Downpipes (Duncan McFadyean)
14. 02:47 PM - Re: Fuel Gauge (Gillian and Charlie Laverty)
15. 02:47 PM - Re: paint (Simon Smith)
16. 02:53 PM - Re: Flap Washout (Tom Friedland)
17. 03:44 PM - Re: Confessions of an amateur (Cliff Shaw)
18. 03:49 PM - Re: Fuel Gauge (Tony Krzyzewski)
19. 03:56 PM - Re: Flap Washout (Cliff Shaw)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Some advice from you all please.
I have had my Europa painted by "a person that will remain nameless" who
should know what they are doing. They delivered it back to me in mid
January.
The fuselage was delivered to my house for some more fitting out to be
completed but the wings were delivered direct to the airfield.
They were unloaded from the trailer by myself and "a person that will remain
nameless "and stored in the hangar on a cradle still in the polythene as
delivered.
On checking them last week with my inspector we found that the inside of the
polythene was wet and over the lower third (they are sitting on the LE so
1/3rd back from the LE on upper and lower surfaces) the paint is raised into
thousands of tiny bubbles each around 0.1 to 0.2mm in size. We have removed
the polythene and moved them to an enclosed area of the hangar where we can
leave a fan heater running which raises the ambient temp by about 4 degrees
c.
Photos can be seen at:
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~jodel/IMG_7340.JPG
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~jodel/IMG_7343.JPG
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~jodel/IMG_7344.JPG
The third picture is probably the clearest example of what has occurred.
When this was discovered I phoned the " person that will remain nameless"
and described the problem. He said that once the moisture had dried off the
paint would return to normal. Given that the wings have been sitting in
this enclosed heated area for a week now with no change to the surface
finish finish, what do you think the outcome will be? Do you believe it
will dry out and return? Have you seen this happen? The painter and I are 5
hours drive apart so it is not an easy one to solve!
thanks
Simon
G-BZTN kit 504
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Sun n Fun Identities |
--> Europa-List message posted by: jimpuglise@comcast.net
11:00 every day is a great idea. Lynne and I will have our Europa hats on. If
anyone else has them, wear them.
Jim-A283
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Bryan Allsop" <bryan@blackballclub.com>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Bryan Allsop"
>
> I have spoken to John at Europa about meeting up at their tent, and the
> possibility of them supplying some means of identifying other Europa Club
> members.
>
> He told me that he has been following the subject on the site, and we are
> welcome to use their place as a rendezvous. He will be taking some badges out
> with him and some means of sticking them on. Europa will be very happy to have
> us call in and collect them before the proposed 11.00 am meet-ups.
>
> Unfortunately the badges will have to travel in John's luggage, so there will
> not be an inexhaustible supply.
>
> Cheers! Bryan.
> XS Mono 912S G-BYSA
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
11:00 every day is a great idea. Lynne and I will have our Europa hats on. If anyone
else has them, wear them.
Jim-A283
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Bryan Allsop" bryan@blackballclub.com
-- Europa-List message posted by: "Bryan Allsop" <BRYAN@BLACKBALLCLUB.COM>
I have spoken to John at Europa about meeting up at their tent, and the
possibility of them supplying some means of identifying other Europa Club
members.
He told me that he has been following the subject on the site, and we are
welcome to use their place as a rendezvous. He will be taking some badges out
with him and some means of sticking them on. Europa will be very happy to have
us call in and collect them before the proposed 11.00 am meet-ups.
Unfortunately the badges will have to travel in John's luggage, so there will
not be an inexhaustible supply.
Cheers! Bryan. <BR
> XS Mono 912S G-BYSA
Do not archive
</ht
ml>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Paint dilemma |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl Pattinson" <carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
One crucial thing.
You havent said what paint was used. If it was the Poly***** stuff then i'm
not that surprised. I havent come accross anyone who is happy with the
stuff.
The only paint that should be used is two pack epoxy.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 3:08 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Paint dilemma
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
>
> Some advice from you all please.
>
> I have had my Europa painted by "a person that will remain nameless" who
> should know what they are doing. They delivered it back to me in mid
> January.
> The fuselage was delivered to my house for some more fitting out to be
> completed but the wings were delivered direct to the airfield.
> They were unloaded from the trailer by myself and "a person that will
> remain
> nameless "and stored in the hangar on a cradle still in the polythene as
> delivered.
> On checking them last week with my inspector we found that the inside of
> the
> polythene was wet and over the lower third (they are sitting on the LE so
> 1/3rd back from the LE on upper and lower surfaces) the paint is raised
> into
> thousands of tiny bubbles each around 0.1 to 0.2mm in size. We have
> removed
> the polythene and moved them to an enclosed area of the hangar where we
> can
> leave a fan heater running which raises the ambient temp by about 4
> degrees
> c.
>
> Photos can be seen at:
>
> http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~jodel/IMG_7340.JPG
> http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~jodel/IMG_7343.JPG
> http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~jodel/IMG_7344.JPG
>
> The third picture is probably the clearest example of what has occurred.
>
> When this was discovered I phoned the " person that will remain nameless"
> and described the problem. He said that once the moisture had dried off
> the
> paint would return to normal. Given that the wings have been sitting in
> this enclosed heated area for a week now with no change to the surface
> finish finish, what do you think the outcome will be? Do you believe it
> will dry out and return? Have you seen this happen? The painter and I are
> 5
> hours drive apart so it is not an easy one to solve!
>
> thanks
>
> Simon
>
> G-BZTN kit 504
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
>> You havent said what paint was used. If it was the Poly***** stuff
then i'm not that surprised. I havent come >>accross anyone who is happy
with the stuff.
Poly***** discontinued their paint some time ago. It was costing them
too much to pay to have people's aircraft, mine included, repainted when
the the paint failed.
The Sikkens two pot that got put onto my aircraft thanks to them looks
superb though!
Tony
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Paint dilemma |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin@btopenworld.com>
Carl,
Now you know one person that is happy with Topgloss!!
It is a good solution if you want to paint your own aircraft instead of
paying for it to be done.
regards,
MP
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Paint dilemma
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl Pattinson"
> <carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> One crucial thing.
>
> You havent said what paint was used. If it was the Poly***** stuff then
> i'm
> not that surprised. I havent come accross anyone who is happy with the
> stuff.
>
> The only paint that should be used is two pack epoxy.
>
Message 6
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Sorry, should have said!
It is Akzo-Nobel Aerodur C21/100UVR (two pack polyurethane)
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Pattinson
Sent: 14 February 2006 19:43
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Paint dilemma
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Carl Pattinson"
--> <carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
One crucial thing.
You havent said what paint was used. If it was the Poly***** stuff then i'm
not that surprised. I havent come accross anyone who is happy with the
stuff.
The only paint that should be used is two pack epoxy.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 3:08 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Paint dilemma
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
>
> Some advice from you all please.
>
> I have had my Europa painted by "a person that will remain nameless"
> who should know what they are doing. They delivered it back to me in
> mid January. The fuselage was delivered to my house for some more
> fitting out to be completed but the wings were delivered direct to the
> airfield. They were unloaded from the trailer by myself and "a person
> that will remain
> nameless "and stored in the hangar on a cradle still in the polythene as
> delivered.
> On checking them last week with my inspector we found that the inside of
> the
> polythene was wet and over the lower third (they are sitting on the LE so
> 1/3rd back from the LE on upper and lower surfaces) the paint is raised
> into
> thousands of tiny bubbles each around 0.1 to 0.2mm in size. We have
> removed
> the polythene and moved them to an enclosed area of the hangar where we
> can
> leave a fan heater running which raises the ambient temp by about 4
> degrees
> c.
>
> Photos can be seen at:
>
> http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~jodel/IMG_7340.JPG
> http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~jodel/IMG_7343.JPG
> http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~jodel/IMG_7344.JPG
>
> The third picture is probably the clearest example of what has
> occurred.
>
> When this was discovered I phoned the " person that will remain
> nameless" and described the problem. He said that once the moisture
> had dried off the paint would return to normal. Given that the wings
> have been sitting in this enclosed heated area for a week now with no
> change to the surface finish finish, what do you think the outcome
> will be? Do you believe it will dry out and return? Have you seen
> this happen? The painter and I are 5
> hours drive apart so it is not an easy one to solve!
>
> thanks
>
> Simon
>
> G-BZTN kit 504
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Confessions of an amateur |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Cheers,
Having heaped upon you the moaning of a frustrated builder, I
now beg you to follow some recalled events in the last two days. If you
don't wish to share the info (because you're now well ahead of me and don't
want the aggravation), leave this to those who be still be behind.
Thinking the making of wings and tail were landmarks, I
concluded early that the hanging of the engine was a one-morning job. Wrong.
I modified the footwells to accomodate the Wilksch and so the
firewall didn't fit properly and I've finally overcome that irregularity.
The next challenge came from the book which said, "don't put the
intermediate frame on the 'plane and then try to hang the engine on it. Put
the frame on the engine and then hang them both on the gear frame." That
screwed me first because the lower firewall so carefully prepared by Graham
Singleton actually covers both the gear- and intermediate frames so would
have to be fitted with the engine already hung. No.
Then came the info from helpful net buddies that one needs to
produce slightly longer bolts in order to cinch up the Lord rubber mounts so
that the AN5-41 bolts could be joined by a nut. I have circumvented that by
fabricating 1-15/16" clamps to hold the Lords till I can thread a -41 into
them.
However, then came the challenge to 'cant' the engine 1-1/2deg
to starboard per the book. Oh,oh. My carefully cinched up bolts left the
engine out by slightly less than 3/4 degree. The shim washers - MS24665-516L
are a measured 0.030" each and would require 4 to right thew wrong - top
and bottom. In spite of the book admonition to include 4 washers everywhere
(to accomodate the cotter pin positionning in the castellated nut) the fact
is that with no washers in the starboard side, the cotter pin fits perfectly
in the base of the nut slot - whereas the port pair with their 4 shim
washers now render the -41 bolt too short for a cotter pin!
Yes, in all instances the bolts are cinched up to hard metal
stops, so no more bolt can be revealed. In addition, be prepared to wheeze
and sweat to instal the bottom port bolt facing forward down amongst a
forest of frame elements asf.
So, thankfully I have emerged from the guts of the wheelwell and
minus the longer bolts, have turned to fuel pump matters for comic relief
while I contemplate where the nearest AN5-42 is. Nor can I say that you
should go through this because it may have been a glitch in the production
line - but I suggest if you're at this juncture, measure the length of the
frame holes plus maybe a couple of shim washers and see if the requisite
length of bolt provided satisfies the need. I should have done that.
....just another rant.........
Ferg
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Paint dilemma |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no>
Simon,
Very sorry to read what happened. I received my fuselage back from the
painter (who I will be proud to name!) in December, and the wings and
control surfaces two weeks ago. I will pass on his advice, although not of
much benefit to you but perhaps to others following in our steps, but first
a word re. the paint: Used Akzo Nobel's Aerodur (two-part), the same as
sold by Europa 2004. Very nice result, glossy and will be even better when
polished (much later!!), according to the painter.
My painter emphasised that the parts should not be wrapped or covered in
anything or in contact with anything preventing evaporation of the wet stuff
for as long as possible, to allow the paint to dry completely. Otherwise
tiny bubbles/blisters would result. He advised strongly against
transporting the wings back to my workshop with any support to the painted
surfaces (dried for one week in his paint shop, after curing at around 30
degr C for several hours following the spraying), so I used the arrangement
made for rotating the wings during painting also for transportation
(supported only at the spar end and at a fitting bolted to the wing tip
light fixture point). Now in my workshop, the wings are suspended from the
ceiling at the same points.
Asking him how soon I could apply vinyl self-sticking stripes etc. on the
painted surfaces, he was most adamant: Not before 3 months have passed,
provided you store the parts at normal room temperature.
///
A piece of encouragement to all those who are filling and sanding, or dread
this stage: I kept at it for more than 6 months. Gave up towards the end
on certain areas of the fuselage and had my painter do that (very
professionally done by him), but I persevered on the wings and control
surfaces. Now when I see it all painted, I have almost forgotten the
endless preparation work - it looks so beautiful with that shiny, white
paint, no dust particles, no pinholes - very, very rewarding! Don't give
up!
Regards,
Svein
A225 - XS Trigear - now in Norway - finding that upholstering also takes
time, used 35 hours on just covering the central tunnel with
leather - - - - -
Message 9
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--> Europa-List message posted by: JTHURSBY@tampabay.rr.com
Hi Simon, That looks like a classic case of moisture entrapment. It can happen
when underlying coats of primers or sealers are wet sanded and then topcoated
without a proper drying time in between. It can also happen when topcoating
is done in too humid of conditions. When I was a tech rep for Polyfiber I flew
to Henstridge, UK to repaint (topgloss!) a Jabiru kitplane with Flightgloss.
Every morning the hanger would be dripping wet! Not ideal painting conditions,
but with heaters we got it done. With the exception of a spray booth in
Miami with four inches of water on the floor at all times it was the worst conditions
I have ever painted in. Put it out in the sun and see if they dry out.
We can go from there.
Jim T.
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: RE: Propellers |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tim Ward" <ward.t@xtra.co.nz>
Welcome back Tony and well said. I certainly agree regarding the performance
of the Airmaster prop and the highly professional development and back up
service.
Cheers,
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8005
New Zealand.
Ph +64 3 3515166
Mobile 021 0640221
ward.t@xtra.co.nz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 9:14 PM
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Propellers
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
>
> There is something that has been puzling me for a while.
>
> Many people on this group suggest one CS propeller system vs the other
> based on weight, cost and increased performance yet not once have I seen
> anyone ask about what testing programme has been run with that particular
> prop on the Europa.
>
> A few years ago I was priveleged enough to be the (unpaid) test pilot for
> Airmaster. Airmaster, when they were ready to go into production, went out
> and bought a Europa with a fixed pitch prop, fitted a US$5000 in flight
> data recorder and I then spent 30 hours flying the plane in just about
> every flight configuration you could imagine.
>
> While this was going on Airmaster were having their hub tested at Auckland
> University to determine the blade pull out forces (I believe they gave up
> at 28,000lbs) and analysing the hamonics of the system.
>
> They then fitted the Airmaster CS prop to the aircraft and I repeated the
> flight test process... right up to doing rapid throttle backoffs while
> flying the aircraft at 185 knots with a harmonic analyser strapped to the
> engine at the insistance of the PFA and thoroughly exploring the climb
> rate under all fail conditions so that a go around is actually possible in
> all conditions. While flying at that speed is something that I am
> unlikely to repeat and wouldn't recommend except under strictly controlled
> test flight conditions, flying the Europa at 185 knots in a steady dive
> from 10000 feet is the closest I can imagine to flying a jet fighter.
>
> Doing this test flying gave me a real respect of how good a job Europa did
> with the design of this aircraft and how much work goes into the design,
> implementation and testing of a propeller system that I'd be happy to fly
> behind in all situations.
>
> When you are considering a propeller system that is an alternative to the
> one that Europa recommend can I suggest that you ask for their test data
> and ask them what flight test programme they have flown on the Europa. If
> that can't be provided then you need to assume that you are going to be
> the test pilot.
>
> As to performance of a Europa fitted with a CS prop... in 2002 I made a
> flight with the data recorder running and peaked at 149KIAS/ 151KTAS at
> 1500 feet straight and level... this with a 912 powered Europa and
> Airmaster propeller fitted. After this flight I came to the conclusion
> that the aircraft flies far batter with the CofG as far aft as practical
> and now, when I am doing high speed run testing always shift the CofG aft.
>
> Regards
>
> Tony
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
For those with my fuel gauge I am in the latter stages of preparing
release 5 which will include...
1/ Separation of the initial full scale calibration and the set levels
routines.
2/ Use of a new display chip that requires minimal external components -
to the extent that I have a test display running inside a MAC/RAC servo
display box already.
3/ Support for using a standard capacitance gauge 0-5v analogue display
or input to Dynon EMS/FlightDEK still using the ten level calibration
routine integral to the system.
4/ Support for using a standard capacitance gauge 0-5v analogue display
or input to Dynon EMS/FlightDEK with uncalibrated levels for use with
external calibration routines. In this mode the fuel gauge exactly
emulates a capacitance sender without any tank incursion.
As soon as I have verfied the code changes I'll post the revised circuit
diagrams onto my web site.
Regards
Tony
Message 12
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Flying Farmer" <funnyphone@btinternet.com>
Advice Needed
I just want to check something, before I get it wrong. Im setting up the
Flaps for the second skin lay-up, Top surface. When I did the first surface,
Bottom skin, I set the washout to 1.4o as described in the manual, as I have
a digital level it makes this operation easy. Now setting up the Flaps for the
top skin, Im checking the washout again, as before; I find there is a large variation.
My level is reading 2.2o, so my question is, Should I still set this
up for the washout as 1.4o? My own answer is it should be set to 1.4o. But I
would like some advice from those who have been here before. Also any other tips.
Thank You.
----------------
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Classic Exhaust Downpipes |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
William,
You asked the same question in August of 2003!
Rgds.,
Duncan McF
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <william@wrmills.plus.com>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Classic Exhaust Downpipes
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills"
> <william@wrmills.plus.com>
>
> Thanks for the reply, Peter.
> I was hoping the response from the forum would have been better, so that
> we
> could see the range of hours before replacement and if others have taken
> any
> measurers to extend the life. I thought mild steel would have been more
> durable than stainless from the point of view of stress fractures, but
> perhaps not.
> If anyone else has any contributions on this subject, please let us know.
> Best wishes,
> William
>
> Do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 9:02 AM
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Classic Exhaust Downpipes
>
>
>> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Pete Lawless" <pete@lawless.info>
>>
>> Morning William
>>
>> G-RMAC is a Classic with 912ul and had the originally supplied mild
>> steel exhaust. The front left down pipe split at 180 hours. The split
>> followed the line of the weld where the pipe had been manufactured and
>> was approximately 2 inches long. Now running with stainless, but only
>> done 40 hours or so on that. Having heard about early problems with
>> downpipes I had supported my silencer box with a strap to the engine
>> mount, obviously this did not help and I have now removed it.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Pete
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
>> Mills
>> Sent: 11 February 2006 08:26
>> To: Europa Forum
>> Subject: Europa-List: Classic Exhaust Downpipes
>>
>> --> Europa-List message posted by: "William Mills"
>> <william@wrmills.plus.com>
>>
>> Dear All,
>> I have just purchased a third set of Classic exhaust downpipes. The
>> original rear port downpipe (mild steel) fractured and blew a hole on
>> the outside of the bend after 485 hours. This affected the engine so
>> badly that I had to limit the power to produce an extended glide to make
>> an emergency down wind landing. I replaced the whole exhaust system
>> (stainless steel).
>> I have just discovered a hairline fracture with grey exhaust deposit on
>> the outside of the bend on the starboard rear downpipe, so I have
>> purchased a set of replacement downpipes at 936 hours. I may decide to
>> replace the lot, or both rear, or one pipe at a time, to see how the
>> others last, but I am not quite sure.
>> It might be useful if others who have had to replace all or part of the
>> exhaust systems, on either Classics or XSs give a short report so that
>> we can see if there is any trend associated with hours and position of
>> any fracture.
>> I thought the first fracture might have been caused by the box having to
>> hang off the down pipes, causing additional stress when operating over
>> rough ground, so I asked Andy to weld some hanger lugs on the
>> replacement box so that I could support it off the crankcase at the
>> front and off the engine bearers at the back, but that did not appear to
>> be any help. In fact the second set only lasted 451 hours!
>> If anyone has any bright ideas, I would be most interested.
>> Still on exhaust matters, has anyone tried to seal the leakage from the
>> spigot and socket joints between the down pipes and the box stubs? I
>> still get some CO in the cockpit when climbing under full power, so I
>> was thinking of sealing them with RTV silicone. Has anyone tried that?
>> Best wishes,
>> William
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Gillian and Charlie Laverty" <bb@baliscate.freeserve.co.uk>
Hi Tony
Have the gauge ready to plumb in to the existing fuel sight
gauge & hopefully calibrate but understand I need softwear to achieve this,
is this the procedure you are refering to. have lost touch with the guy who
built it for me, so have only the Europa sight gauge in the aircraft at the
moment.
Best wishes,
Charlie.
Gillian & Charlie
Baliscate House,
Tobermory ,Isle of Mull ,PA75 6QA
Tel 44(0)1688 302048
Fax 44(0)1688 302666
e-mail bb@baliscate.freeserve.co.uk
www.baliscate.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:39 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel Gauge
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
>
>
> For those with my fuel gauge I am in the latter stages of preparing
> release 5 which will include...
>
> 1/ Separation of the initial full scale calibration and the set levels
> routines.
> 2/ Use of a new display chip that requires minimal external components -
> to the extent that I have a test display running inside a MAC/RAC servo
> display box already.
> 3/ Support for using a standard capacitance gauge 0-5v analogue display
> or input to Dynon EMS/FlightDEK still using the ten level calibration
> routine integral to the system.
> 4/ Support for using a standard capacitance gauge 0-5v analogue display
> or input to Dynon EMS/FlightDEK with uncalibrated levels for use with
> external calibration routines. In this mode the fuel gauge exactly
> emulates a capacitance sender without any tank incursion.
>
> As soon as I have verfied the code changes I'll post the revised circuit
> diagrams onto my web site.
>
> Regards
>
> Tony
>
>
>
Message 15
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Simon Smith" <jodel@nildram.co.uk>
>Hi Simon, That looks like a classic case of moisture entrapment.
Thanks. I've now had a look at the Akzo website and found this:
http://www.akzonobelaerospace.com/troubleshooting/application/blistering.asp
It looks very similar.
>Put it out in the sun and see if they dry out.
You've never been to Scotland in February then!
http://www.microlights.net/html/summary.html give the weather for the
airfield :)
Simon
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Flap Washout |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tom Friedland <96victor@gmail.com>
Mine did the same thing. I couldn't figure out why it changed as it cured.
It was easy to weight it back to 1.4 degrees and do the upper surface.
Tom Friedland
On 2/14/06, Flying Farmer <funnyphone@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Flying Farmer" <
> funnyphone@btinternet.com>
>
> Advice Needed
> I just want to check something, before I get it wrong. Im setting
> up the Flaps for the second skin lay-up, Top surface. When I did the first
> surface, Bottom skin, I set the washout to 1.4o as described in the
> manual, as I have a digital level it makes this operation easy. Now setting
> up the Flaps for the top skin, Im checking the washout again, as before; I
> find there is a large variation. My level is reading 2.2o, so my question
> is, Should I still set this up for the washout as 1.4o? My own answer is
> it should be set to 1.4o. But I would like some advice from those who have
> been here before. Also any other tips.
>
> Thank You.
> ----------------
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Confessions of an amateur |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Ferg
It seems that it was a month ago we told you that you needed -42 bolts ! :)
Did you not order them at that time?
Just poking a little fun at you for having so much trouble with a "one morning
job" :)
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
do not archive
Message 18
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
Charlie
Everything is built into the fuelgauge, you don't actually need any
special software on the PC.
You need to connect a PC to the gauge and run Hyperterminal to do the
calibration routing
Have a look at www.kaon.co.nz/europa/fuelgauvev3.pdf page 3 for basic
instructions.
Regards
Tony
------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski Kaon Technologies Ltd
Managing Director PO Box 58521
Ph 09 274 1590 Greenmount
Fx 09 274 1593 Auckland
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-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gillian and
Charlie Laverty
Sent: Wednesday, 15 February 2006 11:45 a.m.
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel Gauge
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Gillian and Charlie Laverty"
--> <bb@baliscate.freeserve.co.uk>
Hi Tony
Have the gauge ready to plumb in to the existing fuel
sight gauge & hopefully calibrate but understand I need softwear to
achieve this, is this the procedure you are refering to. have lost touch
with the guy who built it for me, so have only the Europa sight gauge in
the aircraft at the moment.
Best wishes,
Charlie.
Gillian & Charlie
Baliscate House,
Tobermory ,Isle of Mull ,PA75 6QA
Tel 44(0)1688 302048
Fax 44(0)1688 302666
e-mail bb@baliscate.freeserve.co.uk
www.baliscate.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:39 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel Gauge
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Tony Krzyzewski"
<tonyk@kaon.co.nz>
>
>
> For those with my fuel gauge I am in the latter stages of preparing
> release 5 which will include...
>
> 1/ Separation of the initial full scale calibration and the set levels
> routines.
> 2/ Use of a new display chip that requires minimal external components
-
> to the extent that I have a test display running inside a MAC/RAC
servo
> display box already.
> 3/ Support for using a standard capacitance gauge 0-5v analogue
display
> or input to Dynon EMS/FlightDEK still using the ten level calibration
> routine integral to the system.
> 4/ Support for using a standard capacitance gauge 0-5v analogue
display
> or input to Dynon EMS/FlightDEK with uncalibrated levels for use with
> external calibration routines. In this mode the fuel gauge exactly
> emulates a capacitance sender without any tank incursion.
>
> As soon as I have verfied the code changes I'll post the revised
circuit
> diagrams onto my web site.
>
> Regards
>
> Tony
>
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Flap Washout |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
As I recall, I too had that problem. I used lots of double sided tape to hold
the bottom side tight in the foam blocks. I really think they will work even if
you get them off a little. Try your hardest to get them right and keep building.
Have fun.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
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