Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:08 AM - Property in Cornwall, UK (flyingphil2)
2. 02:14 AM - Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 03/19/06 (Graham Singleton)
3. 02:47 AM - Re: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 03/19/06 (Jeremy Davey)
4. 04:23 PM - Re: Propeller length (rmrrick)
5. 07:21 PM - Re: Aileron deflection angle (Andrew Sarangan)
6. 08:36 PM - Re: Re: Aileron deflection angle (Andrew Sarangan)
7. 08:49 PM - Re: Re: Aileron deflection angle (David Glauser)
8. 10:30 PM - Late Model Rotax 914UL3 Mag Drop (Horizonspace@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Property in Cornwall, UK |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "flyingphil2" <ptiller@lolacars.com>
Hi,
Further to my other question, it seems the person selling some Europa parts inherited
them from a property (maybe a garage or shed) that they purchased in Cornwall.
Does anyone know of any aircraft that were built in this area or anyone who left
any parts behind after they had finished the aircraft. I'd just be interested
to know the history and kit number before I proceed.
Thanks.
----------------
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 03/19/06 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
ime: 09:32:32 PM PST US
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron deflection angle
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
When attaching the ailerons to the wing, the manual calls for 25-deg up
and 22-deg down (for a final travel of 23.5-deg up and 20-deg down).
I don't have any problem with the 22-deg down, in fact, mine goes down
as far as 35-deg. But the up-swing is only about 20-deg. This is after
drilling holes for the anchor nuts to enter the leading edge of the
aileron.
Andrew
you need to start by setting the aileron upward deflections by adjusting the short
pushrod at the aileron to give 24 degrees or so. Then adjust the long wing
pushrod to make the quick connect bellcrank on the wing vertical when the aileron
is neutral. Then continue with the rest of the adjustments.
Graham
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 03/19/06 |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey" <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
I think what Andrew's saying is not that the pushrods won't allow him the
movement, but that the aileron is fouling on the wing when he tries to get
up deflection with the pushrods disconnected.
Andrew, it sounds to me like you need to check the following:
1) the positioning of your hinges - are they too close in?
2) your start point for zero degrees deflection - are you starting from a
few degrees out?
I hope this helps.
Kind regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves and
lack of workshop
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Singleton
Sent: 21 March 2006 10:16
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 03/19/06
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton
--> <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
ime: 09:32:32 PM PST US
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron deflection angle
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
When attaching the ailerons to the wing, the manual calls for 25-deg up and
22-deg down (for a final travel of 23.5-deg up and 20-deg down).
I don't have any problem with the 22-deg down, in fact, mine goes down as
far as 35-deg. But the up-swing is only about 20-deg. This is after drilling
holes for the anchor nuts to enter the leading edge of the aileron.
Andrew
you need to start by setting the aileron upward deflections by adjusting the
short pushrod at the aileron to give 24 degrees or so. Then adjust the long
wing pushrod to make the quick connect bellcrank on the wing vertical when
the aileron is neutral. Then continue with the rest of the adjustments.
Graham
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Propeller length |
--> Europa-List message posted by: rmrrick <rmrrick@aol.com>
kheindl@msn.com wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl@msn.com>
>
>
>Is anyone out there using longer propeller blades than the standard 62" WD
>on a trigear ?
>What is a safe limit, assuming the safety wire on the nose wheel suspension
>is adjusted if necessary, and assuming that the possibly soft bungee is
>replaced with the steel springs ?
>
>Cheers, Karl
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi
My Tri has a 32.5" length from tip to hub centre. My blades are PV50
Arplast and I've had no problem at all since I replaced the standard
bungee with the multiple loop set up. The advantage I see with this
set-up is that if you find it too soft then just add another loop - a 15
minute job. I fly from very short bumpy field.
Rick Morris
912S CS PV50 Tri
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Aileron deflection angle |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Jeremy,
That is exactly right. I am referring to the deflection without the
pushrods attached.
The gap between the hinged surfaces is more than the 1.5mm called for
in the manual; however, I have not checked whether that's where the
deflection is being restricted.
I am assuming the neutral position (zero-degrees) to be when the
aileron is aligned with the trailing edge of the wingtip. I think that
makes sense because that would make the most streamlined situation to
be zero-degrees.
--- Jeremy Davey <europaflyer_3@msn.com> wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey"
> <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
>
> I think what Andrew's saying is not that the pushrods won't allow him
> the
> movement, but that the aileron is fouling on the wing when he tries
> to get
> up deflection with the pushrods disconnected.
>
> Andrew, it sounds to me like you need to check the following:
>
> 1) the positioning of your hinges - are they too close in?
> 2) your start point for zero degrees deflection - are you starting
> from a
> few degrees out?
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> Kind regards,
> Jeremy
>
> Jeremy Davey
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> PFA EC Member
> "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then
> it is
> possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings with mods underway
> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> 1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house moves
> and
> lack of workshop
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Aileron deflection angle |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
OK, I figured out where the aileron is getting snagged. It is rubbing
against the top surface of the aileron closeout (which is on the
trailing edge of the wing) throughout its entire range of motion. This
is what is restricting its max travel to 20-degrees. I can even see
where this rubbing pressure has even lifted portions of the closeout
skin that used to be bonded to the sides at the root end of this
closeout.
One solution is to trim about 5mm from the closeout's upper lip.
However, I am not sure if this will cause any problems when bonding the
top skin on. Any ideas are appreciated.
--- Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan
> <asarangan@yahoo.com>
>
> Jeremy,
>
> That is exactly right. I am referring to the deflection without the
> pushrods attached.
>
> The gap between the hinged surfaces is more than the 1.5mm called for
> in the manual; however, I have not checked whether that's where the
> deflection is being restricted.
> I am assuming the neutral position (zero-degrees) to be when the
> aileron is aligned with the trailing edge of the wingtip. I think
> that
> makes sense because that would make the most streamlined situation to
> be zero-degrees.
>
>
>
>
> --- Jeremy Davey <europaflyer_3@msn.com> wrote:
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey"
> > <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
> >
> > I think what Andrew's saying is not that the pushrods won't allow
> him
> > the
> > movement, but that the aileron is fouling on the wing when he tries
> > to get
> > up deflection with the pushrods disconnected.
> >
> > Andrew, it sounds to me like you need to check the following:
> >
> > 1) the positioning of your hinges - are they too close in?
> > 2) your start point for zero degrees deflection - are you starting
> > from a
> > few degrees out?
> >
> > I hope this helps.
> >
> > Kind regards,
> > Jeremy
> >
> > Jeremy Davey
> > Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> > Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> > PFA EC Member
> > "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs,
> then
> > it is
> > possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
> > Tail done
> > Standard XS wings with mods underway
> > CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> > 1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house
> moves
> > and
> > lack of workshop
> > Intended fit:
> > Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> > Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
> >
>
>
> Andrew Sarangan
> http://www.sarangan.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Aileron deflection angle |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Glauser" <dglauser@gmail.com>
Let it rub for now. When applying the top skin, you can use mixing
sticks to provide space between the aileron and the closeout. Any
subsequent rubbing can be handled by removing a bit of the trailing
edge of the closeout.
I trimmed mine back and thought all was well. Then when it came time
to bond the top on I found I did not have enough bonding area and the
top skin was not firmly on in places. (Inspection was done with a
small "lipstick" TV camera placed in the wing through the access
panels.) I ended up having to cut more access panels, apply more
epoxy/glass and adhesive through them, reinforce the panel edges, and
reinstall the skin cutouts. A royal pain.
David
On 3/21/06, Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
>
> OK, I figured out where the aileron is getting snagged. It is rubbing
> against the top surface of the aileron closeout (which is on the
> trailing edge of the wing) throughout its entire range of motion. This
> is what is restricting its max travel to 20-degrees. I can even see
> where this rubbing pressure has even lifted portions of the closeout
> skin that used to be bonded to the sides at the root end of this
> closeout.
>
> One solution is to trim about 5mm from the closeout's upper lip.
> However, I am not sure if this will cause any problems when bonding the
> top skin on. Any ideas are appreciated.
>
>
> --- Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > --> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan
> > <asarangan@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Jeremy,
> >
> > That is exactly right. I am referring to the deflection without the
> > pushrods attached.
> >
> > The gap between the hinged surfaces is more than the 1.5mm called for
> > in the manual; however, I have not checked whether that's where the
> > deflection is being restricted.
> > I am assuming the neutral position (zero-degrees) to be when the
> > aileron is aligned with the trailing edge of the wingtip. I think
> > that
> > makes sense because that would make the most streamlined situation to
> > be zero-degrees.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Jeremy Davey <europaflyer_3@msn.com> wrote:
> >
> > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey"
> > > <europaflyer_3@msn.com>
> > >
> > > I think what Andrew's saying is not that the pushrods won't allow
> > him
> > > the
> > > movement, but that the aileron is fouling on the wing when he tries
> > > to get
> > > up deflection with the pushrods disconnected.
> > >
> > > Andrew, it sounds to me like you need to check the following:
> > >
> > > 1) the positioning of your hinges - are they too close in?
> > > 2) your start point for zero degrees deflection - are you starting
> > > from a
> > > few degrees out?
> > >
> > > I hope this helps.
> > >
> > > Kind regards,
> > > Jeremy
> > >
> > > Jeremy Davey
> > > Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> > > Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> > > PFA EC Member
> > > "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs,
> > then
> > > it is
> > > possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
> > > Tail done
> > > Standard XS wings with mods underway
> > > CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> > > 1430 build hours to date, build currently stalled due to house
> > moves
> > > and
> > > lack of workshop
> > > Intended fit:
> > > Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> > > Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
> > >
> >
> >
> > Andrew Sarangan
> > http://www.sarangan.org
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Andrew Sarangan
> http://www.sarangan.org
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Late Model Rotax 914UL3 Mag Drop |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Horizonspace@aol.com
We spent the last month diagnosing a mag drop problem while commissioning
our new 914. If you have a "new" 914, you may be interested in our findings.
Configuration: Rotax 914UL3 S/N 4418895 (one year old); pusher;
Airmaster/Warp Drive 63" CS prop.
Symptoms: Deep RPM drops (400 - 450 RPM) on both A and B ignition tests;
mild detonation in the mid-RPM range (2000 to 4500). Sluggish during drops.
All temperatures and pressures are within specs.
We consulted with several well known Rotax Authorized Service Centers in the
US and one in Canada and were advised to try the following:
- Check plug caps resistance and trim ignition wire ends before
reassembly (use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion).
- Check primary and secondary coil resistance
- Swap A and B ignition modules
- Synchronize Carbs
- Synchronize Carbs
- Synchronize Carbs
- Check propeller for excessive pitch setting
- Verify return fuel line is not obstructed
- Replace spark plugs
- Clean carburetors
- Verify float levels
- Perform float needle valve seal check
- Check carb vent system
- Move carb 1/3 throttle needle position from 2 to 1
- Change main jets from 156/158 to 160/164
We performed all except the last step without arriving at a solution. As
best as we can tell, the proper settings for our carburetors are specified in
Rotax SI-914-015 (pg 3, pp 3.3.2 and 3.3.3). The document specified 156/158
main jets and position 2 for both carb needle positions for 914 with newer air
box (with optimized enrichment system).
We finally consulted with Mike at Rotec Research in B.C. Canada and arrived
at the solution in a short 2 minute phone call. Mike told us that the proper
main jet specifications should be etched on our air box below the model and
serial numbers. We verified that we have the correct jets (156/158) not
160/164 normally prescribed for earlier 914s. He then suggested that we move
the
needle settings to position 3 on both carbs to achieve a slightly richer
mixture in the mid-range. We performed the mods, resynchronized the carbs and
now have a very smooth running 914 with mag drops both below 200 RPM. We
suspect variations in manufacturing and environmental factors contributed to our
problem (near sea level; around 60 deg F ambient conditions). We credit the
Rotax documentation system for the confusion factor.
Hope this long winded missive help future 914 owners experience a smoother
engine commissioning period.
Regards,
Tam Pho
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