Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:13 AM - Re: 912 vs 912s (Jeff B)
2. 10:12 AM - Aileron link rod adjustment (Andrew Sarangan)
3. 12:32 PM - Re: Aileron link rod adjustment (josok)
4. 03:50 PM - Re: 914 Backfiring (SPurpura@aol.com)
5. 04:08 PM - Re: Re: Europa Monowheel Performance with fixed pitch prop & 912S (Paul McAllister)
6. 05:34 PM - Re: 914 Backfiring (Steve Hagar)
7. 06:08 PM - Re: Re: Europa Monowheel Performance with fixed pitch prop & 912S (Rman)
8. 07:06 PM - Re: 914 Backfiring (Cliff Shaw)
9. 08:27 PM - Re: Aileron link rod adjustment (Cliff Shaw)
10. 09:32 PM - Re: Aileron link rod adjustment (Andrew Sarangan)
11. 09:47 PM - Re: Aileron link rod adjustment (Cliff Shaw)
Message 1
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--> Europa-List message posted by: Jeff B <topglock@cox.net>
The weight difference between the 912 and 912S is negligable. The main
difference will be in performance, however, I believe the 912 is up to
the job. IF the money saved is substantial, go for the 912, if not over
a couple of thousand US, spring for the 912S.
Jeff - N55XS
150hrs and Sun-N-Fun bound, Saturday...
sqwk7000@cotswoldwireless.co.uk wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: sqwk7000@cotswoldwireless.co.uk
>
> I have found very adequate performance from the 912. 1000fpm climb (one
> up) and 125-130kt cruise, using ground adjustable Warp Drive. Precise
> figures would depend on whether prop angle is adjusted for STOL
> performance or max. cruise speed.
>
> Judging by what I have read on this forum, if you have 912S, you will need
> heavy duty starter. Also, I expect there is a weight difference between
> 912 and 912S (with HD starter). That will affect payload and C of G. If
> it pushes C of G too far forward you will have to put battery in back hand
> have longer (heavier) cables to it. (Errr... perhaps all XSs have battery
> at back?)
>
> David
> G-SHSH Classic 912
> (still for sale)
>
>
>
>
>>Now the question is do we keep the 912 or 'part-ex' it for a 912s?
>>We'd appreciate the comments of anyone who has made the change
>>(presumably from 912 to 912s) on what difference it made in the real
>>world- and what about props to match ?
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
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>
--
Message 2
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Subject: | Aileron link rod adjustment |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Is there a trick to adjusting the length of the aileron link rod (the
tube that connects the bellcrank to the aileron) without dismantling
the rod-end from the bellcrank each time? Dismantling the aileron-end
would be easier, but there is not enough space for the rod-end to slide
out of the aileron bolt because of the confined space inside the
closeout.
I am doing this with the wings open, so removing the rod-end from the
bellcrank is such a big deal, but the manual talks about doing this in
Chapter 27, which comes well after the wings are closed, and I can't
figure out how one would do this easily.
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
Message 3
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Subject: | RE: Aileron link rod adjustment |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
Nobody seems to supply left-threaded rod ends. So me too subdued in having to remove
one end, and yes, the only one possible is on the bell-crank. And to lift
your spirit: I don't think it is very useful to make final adjustments until
your wings are closed and the ailerons are filled and painted. It makes a difference.
What helps is to fix a pipe clamp, as used on cv pipes to a spanner., click the
assembly on the rod and it stays there, making the one-hand job a lot easier.
Hope it heps,
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
----------------
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: 914 Backfiring |
--> Europa-List message posted by: SPurpura@aol.com
SOUNDS LIKE CARBS MAY BE OUT OF SYNC,TRY THE CARB BALANCING KIT FROM LOCKWOOD.
Message 5
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Subject: | RE: Europa Monowheel Performance with fixed pitch prop |
& 912S
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi all,
Well, I'd like to offer a contrary opinion. I have an Airmaster and I think
its a game changer for take off performance. I have been in and out of
short grass strips at 5000' with MUW and it still gets off in a short
distance with greater than 1000 feet per minute climb. Its not all that
often that I run at MUW, but the take off and climb performance is
significantly different from solo in my aircraft.
Paul
do not archive
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: 914 Backfiring |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
Have balanced the carbs with a dual mercury manometers about 3 months ago
may have to reverify since I have been fooling around in there quite a bit
however.
Steve
Steve Hagar
hagargs@earthlink.net
> [Original Message]
> From: <SPurpura@aol.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 3/28/2006 4:54:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: 914 Backfiring
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: SPurpura@aol.com
>
> SOUNDS LIKE CARBS MAY BE OUT OF SYNC,TRY THE CARB BALANCING KIT FROM
LOCKWOOD.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: RE: Europa Monowheel Performance with fixed pitch prop |
& 912S
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rman <topglock@cox.net>
I'm with you, Paul. My Airmaster is a fine performer. For a 912S I'm
getting 1000+ fps with two occupants, cruising at 130kts, burning 4.2
gal US, per hour @ 5000rpm and 27.5" and takeoff is short and sweet.
Would I spend the money again? Yes!
Jeff - N55XS
150 hrs
do not archive
Paul McAllister wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
>Hi all,
>
>Well, I'd like to offer a contrary opinion. I have an Airmaster and I think
>its a game changer for take off performance. I have been in and out of
>short grass strips at 5000' with MUW and it still gets off in a short
>distance with greater than 1000 feet per minute climb. Its not all that
>often that I run at MUW, but the take off and climb performance is
>significantly different from solo in my aircraft.
>
>Paul
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: 914 Backfiring |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
All
I have not found that backfiring is caused by anything but muffler to header pipe
separation. That said (and I have proved it to my satisfaction) I think the
backfire on shut down is not a problem. If the mag switch is being used in steps
that would make things just right for this to happen. I do not shut down
that way.
I shut down after taxiing home with a little "kick" of the throttle to go to about
3000 RPM then down to 1800 and off with both mags quick. Seems to work for
me.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
PS: I like my Airmaster prop too !!!!!
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Aileron link rod adjustment |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Andrew
I remember this problem. On the first Europa I think we had the aileron off and
on 10 times before we got them adjusted correctly. It was not fun.
On my plane I did the mounting bolt differently. If some of you are reading this
and have not built this step, take notice !!
I imbedded a threaded blind nut in the aileron rather than the bolt. I can unscrew
the bolt from the aileron and free up the pushrod. Of cause this makes it
easer to make the adjustments. And wouldn't you know, I got the adjusted right
in only two tries.
I am glad this step is behind me, Flying is much more fun :)
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
Doing my FAA annual at this time, no flying this week.
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Sarangan
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 10:09 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron link rod adjustment
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Is there a trick to adjusting the length of the aileron link rod (the
tube that connects the bellcrank to the aileron) without dismantling
the rod-end from the bellcrank each time? Dismantling the aileron-end
would be easier, but there is not enough space for the rod-end to slide
out of the aileron bolt because of the confined space inside the
closeout.
I am doing this with the wings open, so removing the rod-end from the
bellcrank is such a big deal, but the manual talks about doing this in
Chapter 27, which comes well after the wings are closed, and I can't
figure out how one would do this easily.
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Aileron link rod adjustment |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Cliff,
I would not have thought of imbedding a nut instead of the bolt when I
was building the aileron closeouts. It is too late for me now. One
option I thought was to cut a slot in the the side-moulding near the
link rod. I only need about 5mm of extra lateral space to allow the
rod-ends to come off the bolt. Please let me know if you think this
sounds reasonable.
I tried removing the rod-end from the bellcrank via the access panel,
to check the feasibility of doing this with the wings closed. It did
not seem like a pleasant task. You would have to somehow hold the bolt
from above with a wrench while turning the nut from below, and also
hold the bellcrank from flopping around. I can easily see myself
dropping a wrench or the nut inside the wing.
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Aileron link rod adjustment |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Andrew
That would work now, but with the flaps installed you have a problem. It just
is not easy.
The one good thing is when it is done, it is done ! I have not had any reason
to go back and tweak them.
Good luck
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Sarangan
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Aileron link rod adjustment
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Cliff,
I would not have thought of imbedding a nut instead of the bolt when I
was building the aileron closeouts. It is too late for me now. One
option I thought was to cut a slot in the the side-moulding near the
link rod. I only need about 5mm of extra lateral space to allow the
rod-ends to come off the bolt. Please let me know if you think this
sounds reasonable.
I tried removing the rod-end from the bellcrank via the access panel,
to check the feasibility of doing this with the wings closed. It did
not seem like a pleasant task. You would have to somehow hold the bolt
from above with a wrench while turning the nut from below, and also
hold the bellcrank from flopping around. I can easily see myself
dropping a wrench or the nut inside the wing.
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
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