Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:03 AM - Re: Warpdrive Torque settings (Kingsley Hurst)
2. 05:36 AM - Re: Source for rattle can paint (Dave_Miller@avivacanada.com)
3. 09:45 AM - Re: First Flight - N245E (GLENN CROWDER)
4. 01:01 PM - Re: Warpdrive Torque settings (steve v.)
5. 05:32 PM - Re: First Flight - N245E (Paul McAllister)
6. 08:07 PM - EGT Sensors (Paul McAllister)
7. 08:18 PM - Re: EGT Sensors (SPurpura@aol.com)
8. 08:35 PM - Re: EGT Sensors (Cliff Shaw)
9. 09:52 PM - Re: EGT Sensors ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Warpdrive Torque settings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
> Hi , i can't seem to find the torque settings for the bolts on the warp
> drive propellor & prop flange anywhere in the manual ,does anyone have any
> figures?, thanks, #573 steve vestuti.
Steve,
The torque settings for the Warp Drive propeller are specified in the
instructions accompanying the propeller. Since the instructions for
assembling the propeller are quite detailed, I think you would be wise to
get Warp Drive to send you a copy if you don't have them. There are two
lots of torque settings dependent on which bolts are being used, 1/4" or
5/16" Also beware, the two hub halves have mating marks. To reiterate, I
think you would be wise to get yourself a copy of the instructions if you
can't find them.
Regards
Kingsley in Oz
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Source for rattle can paint |
Ron,
Mar-Hyde self etching primer worked well for me, others that I tried did
not bond well.
I found it at a Sherwyn Williams auto body supply store.
Dave A061
Message 3
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| Subject: | First Flight - N245E |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "GLENN CROWDER" <gcrowder2@hotmail.com>
Hey John - way to go buddy! Have you thermalled it yet? Mine thermals
pretty well even
with 2 up!
Glenn
>From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Europa-List: First Flight - N245E
>Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 10:54:38 EDT
>
>Greetings all,
>
>Just wanted to let everyone know that N245E broke the surly bonds of earth
>at 6:05 PM EDT on July 7th at Matthews Field (TN89). The duration was 1:06
>and
>the flight was uneventful. I spent the better part of the flight circling
>the field trying to get the piston rings to seat, although I did take a
>jaunt
>up the valley 10 miles or so once I felt comfortable with the engine. I
>would
>have flown longer, but I found it quite uncomfortable with my seat cushion
>removed and using my parachute for padding.
>
>It fly's straight and level hands off and the handling is crisp and
>predictable. Minor adjustments in the rudder cables are needed, but other
>than that
>it is a ball to fly! The Jabiru 3300 performed flawlessly and the airplane
>jumped off the ground in about 400' on the turf runway. I didn't really
>record
>any performance numbers, but I will in the next few flights and I'll post
>them
>here. I did run it up to 137 knots once, though, and there was plenty of
>throttle left. Ground observers said it was very, very quiet.
>
>Many thanks to all here in the Europa family and special thanks to Andy
>Silvester for all his assistance and the fine FWF package he's put
>together. I
>also want to thank Neville for his guidance along the way and Andy Draper
>and
>the Europa factory for their assistance as well. Lastly, I want to thank my
>wife Susan for her consistent encouragement and support, not to mention
>her
>patience, over the 3.5 year build. She's chomping at the bit for me to get
>my 40
>hours flown off so she can fly it.
>
>The Europa Permagrin has begun.....
>
>Regards,
>
>John Lawton
>Dunlap, TN
>N245E - FLYING!
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: Warpdrive Torque settings |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "steve v." <s.vestuti@virgin.net>
Thanks Kinsley for getting back, i couldn't find the mating marks described in
the instuctions !, i'll use the torqes on that sheet if thats what every one else
is doing, thanks again, steve vestuti #573
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 5
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| Subject: | First Flight - N245E |
John,
Congratulations!! Completing your own amateur built aircraft is a
significant personal achievement, many people dream about it but few
actually do it.. I have 460 hours on mine now and I enjoy flying it as much
as the first day I flew it.
Regards, Paul
do not archive
Message 6
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Hi all,
I have an unusual problem. I have two EGT sensors installed, one on the
front port exhaust and the other on the rear starboard.
The probes and the mounts were supplied by Grand Rapids. The probe mounts
are simple screw in devices with a compression gland to secure the probe.
They are made of brass. The problem I am having is that every 50 hours or
so the rear gland unscrews itself. When I install it, its is really tight
to screw in, but it still comes out. I have replaced it 3 times but it
hasn't made any difference, the darn thing still eventually unscrews. It
never happens to the front pipe, which is cooler than the rear one.
Anyone have any ideas on what to do ?. My first thought is to try and get
one made out of stainless steel so the co-efficient of expansion is the
same.
Thanks, Paul
Message 7
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Not unusual, mine get loose @ about 25 hrs
Message 8
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Paul
Interesting. It may be hat the engine vibration is doing the unscrewing
when the nut is hot. I think I would try to drill it for a safety wire.
That is what safety wire is suppose to fix. See if you can get a angled
hole through one side.
Just my thoughts. My EGT probes are the clamp on type (912S) and I had
to weld a boss on the pipe to prevent it from cracking.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul McAllister
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 8:05 PM
Subject: Europa-List: EGT Sensors
Hi all,
I have an unusual problem. I have two EGT sensors installed, one on
the front port exhaust and the other on the rear starboard.
The probes and the mounts were supplied by Grand Rapids. The probe
mounts are simple screw in devices with a compression gland to secure
the probe. They are made of brass. The problem I am having is that
every 50 hours or so the rear gland unscrews itself. When I install it,
its is really tight to screw in, but it still comes out. I have
replaced it 3 times but it hasn't made any difference, the darn thing
still eventually unscrews. It never happens to the front pipe, which is
cooler than the rear one.
Anyone have any ideas on what to do ?. My first thought is to try and
get one made out of stainless steel so the co-efficient of expansion is
the same.
Thanks, Paul
Message 9
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--> Europa-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello Paul
> Anyone have any ideas on what to do ?. My first thought is to try and get
> one made out of stainless steel so the co-efficient of expansion is the
> same.
I can't quite exact visualize what you have, perhaps some general ideas
will help?
Call Grand Rapids and ask them how to secure
If Grand Rapids has no ideas, ask them for a name of someone who does
If the probe bottoms, make sure it contacts uniform, check from no unscrew
to does unscrew
Can you put on front starboard and rear port?
Install a star washer, check McMaster for high temp?
Install a lock washer
Buy (McMaster) if a hex, they have folded up sheet metal hex that allows
you to safety wire
Can you drill and safety wire?
You may want to use a spring instead of, or along with safety wire
Put a clamp on probe and safety wire/spring that
Make a bendable tab, like motorcycles use to secure hub hardware
I never tried it, but perhaps some of the muffler repair paste would turn
to glass and hold into position?
Could you drill and tap the female and install a set screw that could be
safety wired?
If you look close at how a turnbuckle works with the spring clips instead
of safety wiring, you may be able to go in with a precision file, and file
half on the female, and 1/2 on the male and insert a fashioned clip.
McMaster sells wonderful shim washers. they are made up of a gazillion
layers, you select how much you need by splitting with a razor blade. You
could also purchase shims, or shim washers, or shim-stock and make your
own. What i am getting at is if you do the file trick, if you missed by a
little, shim till perfect
Look in McMaster for high temp thread loctite
I have machined a groove on a hex and installed a snap ring, then safety
wired or used a spring on the snap ring
If none of above are suitable, explain exact how probe works, or better
yet take a picture and i will think a bit harder.
Ron Parigoris
You could always put a drop of iodine on the threads, then you will not
have to worry about anyone "EVER" removing. Since you have the bottle out,
put 1 drop on 1 lug nut of each wheel of the neighbors car you hate, about
2 weeks before you put 8 nails under tires (4 propped forward, 4 propped
rear)
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