Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:20 AM - Re: Bungee or springs? (Richard Iddon)
2. 01:21 AM - Re: Problem with XS oil cooler - N262WF (Steven Pitt)
3. 01:59 AM - Re: Bungee or springs? (Peter Grant)
4. 03:20 AM - Re: Problem with XS oil cooler - N262WF (Graham Singleton)
5. 07:04 AM - Re: Tire tubes (astills)
6. 07:52 AM - Fly out Le Touquet (David Joyce)
7. 09:51 AM - Monowheel Inner Tube (Roger Mills)
8. 11:28 AM - Re: Fly out Le Touquet (Trevpond@aol.com)
9. 03:59 PM - Re: Bungee or springs? (steve v.)
10. 05:29 PM - Re: PROBABLE SPAM> Monowheel Inner Tube (Paul McAllister)
11. 05:52 PM - monowheel inner tube (GLENN CROWDER)
12. 07:27 PM - Retro Fitting MG Wings (Jim Butcher)
13. 09:42 PM - Re: Monowheel Inner Tube (William Mills)
Message 1
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Subject: | Bungee or springs? |
Michael
The bungee is lighter and, when new and tensioned correctly works well.
Over time it becomes slacker and periodically requires tightening which
is a proverbial pain in the **** once the aircraft is finished. It is
easier if you use the =91rubber band=92 technique with up to 6 separate
loops but even those still need tightening from time to time. The
springs are indeed heavier but make the front end firmer and
(hopefully!) require nil maintenance. When I ordered my springs from
the factory they told me they had orders for about 40 pairs. That should
tell you something about the unpopularity of the job of re-tensioning
the bungees.
Cheers.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Grass
Sent: 15 August 2006 02:30
Subject: Europa-List: Bungee or springs?
All Mono driver can relax now.
I have a question to all Tri Gear Europa pilots. I opted first not to go
the spring route for the reason of lighter weight and a more distributed
load around the load caring tubes versus a centralized stress point
caused by the small diameter of the spring wire where it touches the
load caring tubes
Now I am not so sure anymore. The manual for the Bungee installation
states to stretch the Bungee to about 175% of its original length or
about 1 inch between the marks. My bungee has the marks exactly a 1/2
inch apart. I stretched all Bungee runs to exactly 1 inch or with other
words to 200% of its original length. Then I did my load test. The
manual states that about 150kg is needed to get the leg of its bump
stop. My installation will give away at about 170kg load sitting on the
shelves (1 human and 1 builder) but no engine or instrument module and
glass installed. No I start to have doubts if that is even enough.
Thinking that I will install a 914 with a CS prop I wonder if this is
enough pretension or should I upgrade to the springs.
I seek now the advise from bungee flyers and the experienced bungee
converted to spring flyer.
Thanks
Michael Grass
A266 TriGear Detroit Michigan
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Problem with XS oil cooler - N262WF |
John
Somewhere in the back of my mind is an instruction that if you want to
lower the radiator you can (should) use a threaded bar/bolt which
attaches to both the upper and lower brackets, thus giving a firmer
anchor and avoiding the potential turning moment in the upper bracket
which you seem to have suffered. Does this make sense? I think the paper
suggested this depending on the weight/size of the radiator but it seems
to be appropriate in this instance.
I've tried to find the written word without success but someone more
technically minded may have the answer.
Regards
Steve Pitt
Message 3
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Subject: | Bungee or springs? |
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Problem with XS oil cooler - N262WF |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
Steven Pitt wrote:
> John
> Somewhere in the back of my mind is an instruction that if you want to
> lower the radiator you can (should) use a threaded bar/bolt which
> attaches to both the upper and lower brackets, thus giving a firmer
> anchor and avoiding the potential turning moment in the upper bracket
> which you seem to have suffered. Does this make sense? I think the
> paper suggested this depending on the weight/size of the radiator but
> it seems to be appropriate in this instance.
> I've tried to find the written word without success but someone more
> technically minded may have the answer.
> Regards
> Steve Pitt
Steve
have a look at Paul McAllister's installation, he lowered the oil cooler
and made other refinements to smooth the airflow. I think there are pix
on the club website , I have them somewhere, buried in an old HDrive
that went wrong :-(
Jim Nelson also did some mods and was able to reduce the size of his
inlet, hopefully reducing cooling drag as well as cooling well in Florida
Graham
Message 5
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "astills" <astills@cox.net>
Jeff,
thanks for the info. I knew there was some problems with some of the tube
and tires and didn't
want to spin my wheels on the "problem ones".
Al Stills
N625Az
Message 6
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Subject: | Fly out Le Touquet |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
The Gloster Strut is holding a fly out to Le Touquet on Sat 26 August,
aiming to arrive there at 12.30 local (1130 BST) before hiring bikes to get
lunch at our favourite sea food restaurant & buy a French tart (aux
abricots! but you buy what sort you like!). Anyone caring to join us is most
welcome. I have prepared a detailed briefing sheet with everything you might
possibly want to know to make it easy if you haven't flown across channel
before - will send on request.
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
Message 7
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Subject: | Monowheel Inner Tube |
Has anyone bought a replacement monowheel inner tube recently that fits
properly?
After reading reports on this forum about inner tube blow - outs, given that
mine is now over 7 years old, I thought I had better fit a new inner tube -
so I purchased one from Europa and tried to fit it yesterday. Unfortunately,
I found that the cranked valve stem didn't fit the wheel hub. Given the
shape of the hub casting, the stem would be forced outwards on inflation and
the threaded part of the stem would be forced hard into contact with the
outer rim - making it difficult, or impossible, to fit a pump connector to
it.
On closer examination I found that the outside of the cranked stem on the
original tube was 20mm from the surface and the replacement stem was 25mm
from the surface. Given that the original didn't appear in too bad
condition, I refitted it and am now looking to find an exact replacement.
The curious thing is that, when I queried this with the factory, Roger told
me that mine was the last one of a batch of at least 6 and there had been no
other complaints! Yet I am sure that, if I had forced the tube into service,
I would be risking a blow out due to an over-stressed valve stem
neck/innertube joint. Has anyone had a similar experience and could this be
the cause of the recently mentioned blow - outs?
More to the point, does anyone know of a source of 8.00-6 inner tubes with a
cranked stem (the outer edge of the crank being 20mm from the tube surface)
please?
Regards
Roger Mills
G-BVUV
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Fly out Le Touquet |
Hi David,
G-LINN, wife Lin and I are definately on for this one!
Please send me the briefing sheet.
kindest regards
Trevor
Message 9
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Subject: | RE: Bungee or springs? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "steve v." <s.vestuti@virgin.net>
Hi Mike,
I was unable to achive a satisfactory load versus bungie tension when
i set up mine, i had to resort in the end to an 'extra three turns ' of additional
bungee cord from the factory to sort it out. i may fit the
springs in the future as the prospect of replacing the bungee while
inverted on the hanger floor doesnt appeal to me - i stuggled in a
heated well lit workshop ! still - its all good fun...
steve.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 10
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Subject: | Monowheel Inner Tube |
Roger,
I got what I needed from Wicks aircraft supply. I have one at the hanger
so if you need me to look up the part number then let me know. If you get
really stuck I can put a couple in a box for you.
Cheers, Paul
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Roger Mills
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 11:50 AM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: PROBABLE SPAM> Europa-List: Monowheel Inner Tube
Has anyone bought a replacement monowheel inner tube recently that fits
properly?
After reading reports on this forum about inner tube blow - outs, given
that mine is now over 7 years old, I thought I had better fit a new inner
tube - so I purchased one from Europa and tried to fit it yesterday.
Unfortunately, I found that the cranked valve stem didn't fit the wheel hub.
Given the shape of the hub casting, the stem would be forced outwards on
inflation and the threaded part of the stem would be forced hard into
contact with the outer rim - making it difficult, or impossible, to fit a
pump connector to it.
On closer examination I found that the outside of the cranked stem on the
original tube was 20mm from the surface and the replacement stem was 25mm
from the surface. Given that the original didn't appear in too bad
condition, I refitted it and am now looking to find an exact replacement.
The curious thing is that, when I queried this with the factory, Roger
told me that mine was the last one of a batch of at least 6 and there had
been no other complaints! Yet I am sure that, if I had forced the tube into
service, I would be risking a blow out due to an over-stressed valve stem
neck/innertube joint. Has anyone had a similar experience and could this be
the cause of the recently mentioned blow - outs?
More to the point, does anyone know of a source of 8.00-6 inner tubes with
a cranked stem (the outer edge of the crank being 20mm from the tube
surface) please?
Regards
Roger Mills
G-BVUV
Message 11
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Subject: | monowheel inner tube |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "GLENN CROWDER" <gcrowder2@hotmail.com>
This is the page I think Paul posted some time back. It shows a picture of
the
tire but it is the part number for the inner tube. It has the 90 degree
bend.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=7970~subid=1993/index.html
Glenn
Message 12
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Subject: | Retro Fitting MG Wings |
We are trying to retrofit glider wings to our XS fuselage. We completed
the spar bush installation per Chapter 8 with no problem. Moving to
Chapter 27a, we are able to fit the port wing to the fuselage and insert
the EUR047 bolts. The top skin of the port wing forward of the spar does
just touch the fuselage. However, we are unable to fit the stbd wing. It
seems as though the wing will not go far enough into the fuselage, by
about =BC inch. The top skin of the stbd wing forward of the spar is
hitting the side of the fuselage and preventing the wing from sliding in
as far as necessary. We also notice that the gap between the GDG01 jigs
and the lift drag pin sockets (W26 & W27) on the stbd wing is large -
over =BD inch while it is small on the port wing - 1/8 inch. Is this a
common problem and is the solution to trim the top skin?
We have also noticed that the flap cross tube FL15 hits the top skin of
the wing on both sides. Is the solution to trim the top skin to clear?
When fitting the short wings to the fuselage, we stretched a string from
wing tip to wing tip to check for sweep (Chapter 27-4). The MG manual
does not include this step. It only requires measurement of the wings
from the tailplane torque tube (Chapter 27a-2). Should we also check
sweep with a string as before?
Finally, the thickness of the spar bushings seems to be greater on the
MG wings. Is a different length spar pip pin required?
Thanks
Jim & Heather Butcher N241BW
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Monowheel Inner Tube |
Roger,
Try Watts Tyres; they advertise in most of the flying mags.
Regards,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Mills
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Monowheel Inner Tube
Has anyone bought a replacement monowheel inner tube recently that
fits properly?
After reading reports on this forum about inner tube blow - outs,
given that mine is now over 7 years old, I thought I had better fit a
new inner tube - so I purchased one from Europa and tried to fit it
yesterday. Unfortunately, I found that the cranked valve stem didn't fit
the wheel hub. Given the shape of the hub casting, the stem would be
forced outwards on inflation and the threaded part of the stem would be
forced hard into contact with the outer rim - making it difficult, or
impossible, to fit a pump connector to it.
On closer examination I found that the outside of the cranked stem on
the original tube was 20mm from the surface and the replacement stem was
25mm from the surface. Given that the original didn't appear in too bad
condition, I refitted it and am now looking to find an exact
replacement.
The curious thing is that, when I queried this with the factory, Roger
told me that mine was the last one of a batch of at least 6 and there
had been no other complaints! Yet I am sure that, if I had forced the
tube into service, I would be risking a blow out due to an over-stressed
valve stem neck/innertube joint. Has anyone had a similar experience and
could this be the cause of the recently mentioned blow - outs?
More to the point, does anyone know of a source of 8.00-6 inner tubes
with a cranked stem (the outer edge of the crank being 20mm from the
tube surface) please?
Regards
Roger Mills
G-BVUV
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