Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:44 AM - Re: Mod. 62 - Replacement of tailplane torque tube drive pins (G-IANI)
2. 04:39 AM - Torque tube Mod (ivor.phillips)
3. 05:45 AM - Distorted door window perspex (milnera)
4. 06:00 AM - Flap Placement (astills)
5. 06:27 AM - Re: Debugging a TCU Problem (Jim Brown)
6. 07:42 AM - Re: Mod. 62 - Replacement of tailplane torque tube drive pins (R.C.Harrison)
7. 07:52 AM - Re: Flap Placement (G-IANI)
8. 08:38 AM - Re: Distorted door window perspex (R.C.Harrison)
9. 08:38 AM - Re: PROBABLE SPAM> Re: Mod. 62 - Replacement of tailplane torque tube drive pins (Paul McAllister)
10. 10:00 AM - Re: Mod. 62 - Replacement of tailplane torque tube drive pins ()
11. 10:55 AM - Mobile Wing Cradle (Andrew Sarangan)
12. 11:38 AM - Re: Mobile Wing Cradle (EuropaXSA276@aol.com)
13. 11:57 AM - Re: Mobile Wing Cradle (mau11)
14. 12:31 PM - Re: Fly out Le Touquet (Mike Gamble)
15. 02:28 PM - Re: Mobile Wing Cradle (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
16. 03:49 PM - Re: Debugging a TCU Problem (Gilles Thesee)
17. 06:11 PM - Re: PROBABLE SPAM> Re: Debugging a TCU Problem (Paul McAllister)
18. 11:51 PM - Re: Distorted door window perspex (Paul Stewart)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Mod. 62 - Replacement of tailplane torque tube drive |
pins
Gert
" Think a better fix would have been to put AN5 bolts instead of the
pins and to mill a aluminium plug which could slide inside the TP4
torque tube and give you the possibility to tighten the arrangement
together. I am interested in comments from folks who have done this mod.
the Europa way to hear from their experience."
Nigel Graham has already done what you suggest. I have seen the parts
but I an not sure if he has fitted them to his kit. I use the word kit
because he is still a long way from having a flying aircraft. The
spacer is, I believe, steel rather that aluminium and has a
circumferential groove for "loctite".
The important thing is how you locate the internal spacer inside the
torque tube and reduce any play between the spacer and the tube.
Nigel's solution to this is to tap a hole in the centre of the spacer
and insert it into the tube on a long rod with a tread on the end. When
in the correct position the rod and spacer are rotated while a suitable
"loctite" is spread on the spacer through the hole in the tube. This
allows the spacer to be glued in without wipeing the glue (loctite) off
as it is fed down the tube. The spacer is then rotated to align the
bolt hole, a bolt inserted and the loctite left to harden.
I have been chasing Nigel to let me have the details for some time now.
When I get them I intend to put it in as a PFA standard modification and
(in conjunction with Europa 2004) look for a supplier for the spacers.
Unfortunately PFA have had some six standard mods sitting on Francis
Donaldson's desk for some 10 months without being processed. I spoke to
Francis at the FFF Rally last week and he did say he hoped to get round
to them soon.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 2
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Hi Gert
I have fitted Bob Harrison's Torque tube clamp, It effectivley clamps the
whole Torque tube and TP9/TP5 together as one!
Basically a fit and forget Modification,
Regards
Ivor
OK, I have now done the Europa modification No 62!
Amen.
Easy to write, but believe me - a hard job.
I did the fix according to the factory recommendations, but actually I feel
that it's just a matter of time before the problem occurs again.
Think a better fix would have been to put AN5 bolts instead of the pins and
to mill a aluminum plug which could slide inside the TP4 torque tube and
give you the possibility to tighten the arrangement together.
I am interested in comments from folks who have done this mod. the Europa
way to hear from their experience.
Regards Gert
OY-GDS / Europa Mono / Kit 151 / 914 / 400 hours
Message 3
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| Subject: | Distorted door window perspex |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "milnera" <alan_milner@totalise.co.uk>
I was just about to trim the door glass and noticed a horrid curl on the stb top
edge, particularly at the front. There is a small defect on the port and the
front screen is fine.
Has anyone experienced this before?
Some of the lip will obviously come off with trimming, but not enough. Beyond
attacking it with the hairdryer I'm not sure what do do?
Any ideas welcome.
There are a couple of photos here:
http://www.antsol.com/europaphotos.nsf/plinks/AMIR-6T3GNH
Alan
(XS trigear - booked in for painting in 5 weeks)
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 4
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I've just recieved my plane from the paint shop and put every thing
togeather and am just about ready for first run ups. I've lined up all
flying surfaces
and found that the flaps (both sides) are lower than the alerons about 3/8".
The flap rod (tri gear with electric flaps) is up against the baggage bay
inside.
As far as I can see there is no adjustment I can make to anything to bring
flaps up. My question is has anyone else had this problem and is it going to
be a problem. I don't think so but will wait to hear for some of you others.
Al Stills
N625AZ
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Debugging a TCU Problem |
Paul
Try disconnecting the big cable connector and reinserting several times
on the TCU. Sometime's a pin will get corroded or dirty.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul McAllister
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 11:31 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Debugging a TCU Problem
Hi all,
I am looking for some ideas on debugging a TCU - Turbo - waste gate
issue. The background is as follows:
About a year ago, every now and then the orange TCU light would flash.
I'd power cycle and it would go away. Over time it is almost at the
point that this happens every time. At first I thought it was just the
waste gate sticking, but after further investigation I realized that if
the waste was stuck, the servo would move and the cable would bow in and
out. (Lockwood confirmed this).
In my case what happens is the the servo just doesn't move. I can
hear is making the normal "growling" noise, but it doesn't do its normal
cycle on power up. If I start the engine and power cycle the TCU then
all is well.
I asked the Lockwood guys and they think I have a faulty servo. I
have reseated all of the cables but it didn't make any difference. I
really don't want to buy a $370 servo just to find out it that its not
the problem.
The next step is to go buy a servo to prove this theory, but before I
do I'd be interested in an other ideas.
Thanks, Paul
Message 6
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| Subject: | Mod. 62 - Replacement of tailplane torque tube drive |
pins
Hi! Gert,
At the expense of being ridiculed....! IMHO if a pin goes in no matter
what the type of fit sooner or later it will begin to loosen. IMHO the
only conceivable 100% way is to clamp the "f.***g" lot solid! (if you
don't wish to have hassle freeing off loctite) ... I already supplied a
set of my clamps to a guy on 3/8" oversized holes that have worn yet
again.
Regards
Bob H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gert
Dalgaard
Sent: 26 August 2006 16:47
Subject: Europa-List: Mod. 62 - Replacement of tailplane torque tube
drive pins
OK, I have now done the Europa
<http://www.europa-aircraft.biz/pdfs/modifications/Mod%252062.pdf>
modification No 62!
Amen.
Easy to write, but believe me - a hard job.
I did the fix according to the factory recommendations, but actually I
feel that it's just a matter of time before the problem occurs again.
Think a better fix would have been to put AN5 bolts instead of the pins
and to mill a aluminum plug which could slide inside the TP4 torque tube
and give you the possibility to tighten the arrangement together.
I am interested in comments from folks who have done this mod. the
Europa way to hear from their experience.
Regards Gert
OY-GDS / Europa Mono / Kit 151 / 914 / 400 hours
Message 7
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Al
This is a fairly common problem. The question is are the flaps low or
are the ailerons high. You should be able to get an idea of which by
using your wing template. It is also worth looking to see how much gap
is between the flap leading edge and the wing closeout. Others who have
had the problem may be able to suggest what they did.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]
> Sent: 27 August 2006 12:59
> To: Europa-List@Matronics. Com
> Subject: Europa-List: Flap Placement
>
> I've just recieved my plane from the paint shop and put every thing
> togeather and am just about ready for first run ups. I've lined up all
> flying surfaces
> and found that the flaps (both sides) are lower than the alerons about
> 3/8". The flap rod (tri gear with electric flaps) is up against the
> baggage bay inside.
> As far as I can see there is no adjustment I can make to anything to
> bring flaps up. My question is has anyone else had this problem and is
> it going to
> be a problem. I don't think so but will wait to hear for some of you
> others.
>
> Al Stills
> N625AZ
Message 8
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| Subject: | Distorted door window perspex |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
Hi! Alan
I haven't any fixing experience for you but best advice IMHO is don't go
near it with any form of heat gun unless you want it opaque instead of
see through!
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of milnera
Sent: 27 August 2006 13:45
Subject: Europa-List: Distorted door window perspex
--> Europa-List message posted by: "milnera"
<alan_milner@totalise.co.uk>
I was just about to trim the door glass and noticed a horrid curl on the
stb top edge, particularly at the front. There is a small defect on the
port and the front screen is fine.
Has anyone experienced this before?
Some of the lip will obviously come off with trimming, but not enough.
Beyond attacking it with the hairdryer I'm not sure what do do?
Any ideas welcome.
There are a couple of photos here:
http://www.antsol.com/europaphotos.nsf/plinks/AMIR-6T3GNH
Alan
(XS trigear - booked in for painting in 5 weeks)
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Mod. 62 - Replacement of tailplane |
torque tube drive pins
MessageFolks,
So far (480 hours) I haven't had a problem with mine, but that doesn't mean
I won't in the future.
Graham Singleton made me couple of pins that have a tapered sleeve at each
end that are designed to expand the stainless steel sleeve. I suspect that
getting them off again would be difficult, however they look like that they
would fix the problem and they are simple to make.
Paul
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Mod. 62 - Replacement of tailplane torque tube drive |
pins
--> Europa-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hello Mike
"All this for a couple of pins ??????
"Just which century were you planning to fly your aircraft Ron??"
Why I plan to fly in the precise century when the aeroplane is complete!
Some battles are worth fighting early on rather than later.
I believe that the initial fit of the pins are not the only problem that
can cause ill fitting pins later.
The machine job of my pushrod control horn and stabilator drives were poor
fitting the TT, oval, slight mis alignment in the center of 1 and just
plain oversized with bad finish.
Another battle that took half a day was installing custom stainless shims
to aid this bad fit. Using .001, .002, .003" shims, I waxed TT, and put a
Loctite liquid shim compound on the outside of shims and slid them in
place before I sent the drive pins home.
Then of course there is the saga of our accelerated stabilators, that had
a bushing debond, one drain hole got drilled through the pip pin hole and
the stabilator drive bushings were held in place with rapid epoxy with
less than 50% contact (of course they were not aligned proper). Setting
that problem straight took plenty longer than the drive pin resolve.
Wasting time complaining and pointing fingers does not get planes in the
air. Wasting time making things right may, if I live long enough!
Ron Parigoris
Only a few more battles to go before top goes on.
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Mobile Wing Cradle |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
Recently I built a wing cradle that allows one to move the wing around
as well as flip it on its side with relative ease. I thought there
might be some others who might benefit from this construction. Detailed
photos are available at
http://www.sarangan.org/aviation/europa/wing/cradle.html
If you have comments or critiques, please let me know.
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.sarangan.org
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Mobile Wing Cradle |
Well done Andrew! Just the thing I have been wanting to construct. I see
from your sight it says you have dimensions available by email. Would love to
have those. Please email or perhaps post them on the Europa Owners site?
Thanks!
Do not archive.
Brian Skelly
Europa XS TriGear #A276
North Texas USA
You can see my build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Mobile Wing Cradle |
X-mailer: Foxmail 5.0 [-fr-]
--> Europa-List message posted by: "mau11" <mau11@free.fr>
Bonjour Andrew ,
I follow you on your web site, it is very interesting.
Thank for your craddle informations do you have dimensions and/or drawings because
I made a pair.
Another question, do you have any informations on the altitude hold installation
on the Europa XS.
bientt,
Michel AUVRAY
Builder N145 > 300 hours flight
======= le 27/08/2006, 19:54:15 vous criviez: ======
>--> Europa-List message posted by: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@yahoo.com>
>
>
>Recently I built a wing cradle that allows one to move the wing around
>as well as flip it on its side with relative ease. I thought there
>might be some others who might benefit from this construction. Detailed
>photos are available at
>http://www.sarangan.org/aviation/europa/wing/cradle.html
>
>If you have comments or critiques, please let me know.
>
>
>Andrew Sarangan
>http://www.sarangan.org
>
>
= = = = = = = = = ========= = = = = = = = = =
mau11
mau11@free.fr
27/08/2006
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fly out Le Touquet |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble@tiscali.co.uk>
David, I am not planning to cross the pond just yet but I would be very
interested to see your info sheet for your trip to Le Touquet.
Thanks and regards
Mike Gamble
XS 440 mono
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Mobile Wing Cradle |
Andrew,
Please add me to your list of people that would like the dimensions of the
wing cradle.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Debugging a TCU Problem |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Jim Brown a crit :
>
> About a year ago, every now and then the orange TCU light would
> flash. I'd power cycle and it would go away. Over time it
> is almost at the point that this happens every time. At first I
> thought it was just the waste gate sticking, but after further
> investigation I realized that if the waste was stuck, the servo
> would move and the cable would bow in and out. (Lockwood confirmed
> this).
>
Paul,
Went flying today, and paid special attention to the operation of the
TCU and lights. The following behavior may serve as a comparison with
your engine.
On power up, the red and yellow lights illuminate as advertised for
about one second, the yellow light going off last by about 1/10 second.
Could not hear the servo behind the panel, due to the gyros spinning up.
At holding point, it takes 25" MP to achieve the 4000 RPM for magneto
and CS governor checks.
At take-off, I advanced the throttle steadily to the 115 % stop in about
1.5 second. The MP needle went up direct to the 39.9 "(40) red mark and
stayed there. The aircraft being lightly loaded I was airborne in a very
short time.
During climb out I reduced to 5000 RPM/31" i.e. 75 % power.
If your MP remains just at the red line during take-off, you can be
assured that your TCU and servo are working as expected. I seem to
remember you told us that you had no problem in flight. So your problem
may just be that the yellow light doesn't illuminate at power up ?
Have you considered that the problem may lie with your light ?
FWIW,
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Debugging a TCU Problem |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Gilles,
I suspect I haven't explained the fault I am seeing correctly. The TCU
powers up, the red and orange light flash briefly as normal. After a short
period of time the orange light starts flashing.
If I turn off the gyro's and fuel pump then I can listen to what is
happening. When things work correctly the two lights flash, the servo
cycles and all is well.
Under the fault condition, the two lights flash, the servo does not move and
after a while the orange light flashes. The servo then makes a very slight
growling noise. It always has done this since day one. Now, if I move the
throttle under this situation (orange light flashing indicating a fault)
then the servo moves.
If I then power cycle the TCU with the engine running then behaves as it
should.
The TCU works corectly in flight, but just to confirm I did a take off this
evening using boost (I rarely do this) and the MP ran up to 39" and held
steady.
Paul
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Distorted door window perspex |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Paul Stewart <europa@pstewart.f2s.com>
Alan
We had a similarly distorted stbd glass. Not only did it reflex out,
but it was also too small. The only solution for us was to get a
replacement.
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
On 27 Aug 2006, at 13:45, milnera wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "milnera"
> <alan_milner@totalise.co.uk>
>
> I was just about to trim the door glass and noticed a horrid curl
> on the stb top edge, particularly at the front. There is a small
> defect on the port and the front screen is fine.
>
> Has anyone experienced this before?
>
> Some of the lip will obviously come off with trimming, but not
> enough. Beyond attacking it with the hairdryer I'm not sure what
> do do?
>
> Any ideas welcome.
>
> There are a couple of photos here:
> http://www.antsol.com/europaphotos.nsf/plinks/AMIR-6T3GNH
>
> Alan
>
> (XS trigear - booked in for painting in 5 weeks)
> ----------------
> Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
>
>
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