Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:45 AM - Old Sarum Fly in (G-IANI)
2. 03:03 AM - Hot and cold air (josok)
3. 06:36 AM - Cabin Heat (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com)
4. 07:24 AM - Re: Cabin Heat (gdh)
5. 08:06 AM - Re: Cabin Heat (G-IANI)
6. 10:05 AM - Brake tube (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
7. 10:25 AM - Dodgy Regulator - Update (Richard Holder)
8. 11:29 AM - Re: Brake tube (Rman)
9. 12:57 PM - Re: Brake tube (Steven Pitt)
10. 01:30 PM - Re: Brake tube (Simon Smith)
11. 05:19 PM - Coolant lines (Jerry Rehn)
12. 08:56 PM - Adjustable rudder cable length or not? ()
13. 11:11 PM - Re: Adjustable rudder cable length or not? (Steven Pitt)
Message 1
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Subject: | Old Sarum Fly in |
Old Sarum Europa Fly In
Saturday September 23rd 06
Come and meet the three resident Europas
Free Landing and Fuel available
Non Flying builders and potential owners Welcome
You might even get a ride
If you plan (weather permitting) to attend please contact
Ian Rickard on 01483 714096 or e-mail (g-iani <mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com>
@ntlworld.com)
By letting me know we can organise reserved Tables for Lunch (or Barbeque
depending on numbers)
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 2
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Subject: | Hot and cold air |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
Gerry Hollands pictures of his solution are to be found in the europaowners picture
gallery in a sub album under builders pictures. Also a pdf file containing
Rob Housemans solution has been added to the documents section of the forum.
Attached are some pictures from the pdf
Kind Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
----------------
This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
http://www.europaowners.org/viewtopic.php?p=12681#12681
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
Message 3
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Hi Guys,
I installed cabin heat in N245E, adapting the Jabiru cabin heat kit, plus
some modifications of my own. It uses a heat muff to take heat off of the
exhaust expansion chamber. The muff is manufactured by Jabiru, but could probably
be adapted to a Rotax exhaust. The recent cooler temps here in SE Tennessee
shows that it works quite well.
I fabricated a trapazoid shaped stainless panel from the same material as
the stainless firewall. This panel fits inbetween the frame members of the
lower forward portion of the engine mount. The panel is secured using four adel
clamps around the engine mount frame, providing cushioning from vibration. The
panel itself is attached to the adel clamps using 1/2" x 8-32 SS pan head
screws, mating to blind nuts rivited to the adel clamps. The fresh air feed
comes from a NACA vent on the right side of the lower cowl and is ducted via 2"
SCAT tube.
Using a "homebuilders cabin heat box", available from ACS or Suncoast
Sportplanes, I rivited the heat box to the stainless panel, allowing the hot air
exit flange to pass rearward through the stainless panel though a 2" hole cut
in the panel. The hot air then passes into a "T" I made from 52mm (2") thin
walled (.049") aluminum tubing. The "T" then directs the hot air left and right
through the inside side wall of each footwell, about 4" above the rudder
pedal tubes, using a 2" aluminum flange (ACS # 08-04135). 2" SCAT connects it
all together. This puts the hot air right onto your toes. ~TOASTY~
Control of the cabin heat box is by a knob and cable arrangement located on
the center console.
If anybody is worried about CO, check out the electronic CO monitors
available from www.aeromedix.com . I have one mounted in N245E and other than a
brief alarm on the first flight, it hasn't chirped once in 30+ hours of flight
time. These electronic CO monitors are VASTLY superior to the old "black spot"
card type CO detectors.
I can provide pictures and additional details if anybody is interested.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
N245E - Flying - 30.5 hours and adding a few more today......
Message 4
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John,
Pictures would be much appreciated.
Have you found any springs to replace the nose gear bungee? If not, we
should put together a bulk order from Europa.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 6:35 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Cabin Heat
Hi Guys,
I installed cabin heat in N245E, adapting the Jabiru cabin heat kit,
plus some modifications of my own. It uses a heat muff to take heat off
of the exhaust expansion chamber. The muff is manufactured by Jabiru,
but could probably be adapted to a Rotax exhaust. The recent cooler
temps here in SE Tennessee shows that it works quite well.
I fabricated a trapazoid shaped stainless panel from the same material
as the stainless firewall. This panel fits inbetween the frame members
of the lower forward portion of the engine mount. The panel is secured
using four adel clamps around the engine mount frame, providing
cushioning from vibration. The panel itself is attached to the adel
clamps using 1/2" x 8-32 SS pan head screws, mating to blind nuts
rivited to the adel clamps. The fresh air feed comes from a NACA vent on
the right side of the lower cowl and is ducted via 2" SCAT tube.
Using a "homebuilders cabin heat box", available from ACS or Suncoast
Sportplanes, I rivited the heat box to the stainless panel, allowing the
hot air exit flange to pass rearward through the stainless panel though
a 2" hole cut in the panel. The hot air then passes into a "T" I made
from 52mm (2") thin walled (.049") aluminum tubing. The "T" then directs
the hot air left and right through the inside side wall of each
footwell, about 4" above the rudder pedal tubes, using a 2" aluminum
flange (ACS # 08-04135). 2" SCAT connects it all together. This puts the
hot air right onto your toes. ~TOASTY~
Control of the cabin heat box is by a knob and cable arrangement
located on the center console.
If anybody is worried about CO, check out the electronic CO monitors
available from www.aeromedix.com . I have one mounted in N245E and other
than a brief alarm on the first flight, it hasn't chirped once in 30+
hours of flight time. These electronic CO monitors are VASTLY superior
to the old "black spot" card type CO detectors.
I can provide pictures and additional details if anybody is
interested.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
N245E - Flying - 30.5 hours and adding a few more today......
Message 5
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John Lawton
Thanks for the note. It would be nice if you could put the picture in
the www.europaowners.org. picture gallery.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 6
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Three days ago one of the black nylon brake tubes from the finger brake
master cylinder to the parking brake valve popped off when lining up for
take-off. I fixed it with a spare brass fitting with the white nylon
press ring inside, and taxi tested it before taking off. Today, the
exact same thing happened during run-up, so no flight.
- Any suggestion as to why this happended the first/the second time?
Must the tube be replaced if popping off (which I did not do but plan to
do now)? Did I tighten it too much/too little (not possible to tighten
more than I did the last time)? Perhaps I did not manage to push the
tube fully in over the brass tube in the fitting on the valve?
- While I am waiting for some more brass/nylon fittings from Europa, I
wonder if anyone has found a better nylon tubing/press fitting that go
onto the connectors we have? The black nylon tube looks so slippery that
it is almost a wonder that more of them have not popped off.
(yes, I know I should have replaced it all with aluminum tubing during
construction, but that is not my question!)
Best regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Message 7
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Subject: | Dodgy Regulator - Update |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Holder <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
Team
On Friday my GR6 Rectifier-Regulator (RR) arrived from
Schicke in Germany.
I fitted it yesterday and test-taxiied at high power.
Today I flew it to Conington and back.
This was all generated by my purchase of a new RR at the
beginning of the year after my original failed at 175
hours. The new RR (and all three other new RRs that I
tried) made my analog ammeter oscillate from 1 - 10 amps
at 5700 rpm and from 1- 5 amps at 4600. At the same time
two older RRs lent by other kind souls worked fine with
no oscillations.
There was an implication that I had a wiring fault in
G-OWWW. Nigel Beale's solution was to "disconnect the
ammeter" :-( I did not find that acceptable.
I did use the 'faulty' RR for about 30 hours and I covered
up the ammeter, almost, to avoid distraction.
Today with Herr Schicke's RR there were no oscillations.
It worked right !
So, although four faulty RRs seems to be unlikely it is
actually true. I suspect that Ducati have changed the
circuit (or are using a different poorer quality
component) about 12 months ago.
I have asked here and on the Rotax Engines list for anyone
with experience of a new RR with an analog ammeter. I was
looking for either "yes I have an oscillation" or "no I do
not have an oscillation" when they had used a new RR. I
had one response from Australia but his engine was now out
of commission for another reason and he couldn't further
confirm his position. I had not a single comment, yes or
no, from anyone else. So I rather assume that no one fits
my description.
I am going to stick with the GR6 for now. I have told
Nigel Beale that he needs to get the new RRs checked as he
is sending out with new engines RRs which will give him
grief when the builders finally start them up.
I will post his reply. I am not hopeful that I will
achieve any progress. Too expensive an implication if they
confirm my findings :-(
I have done my part with my tests over the last 9 months.I
would recommend anyone who needs to replace their RR to
buy from Herr Schicke. The GR6 is and isn't a direct
replacement for the Ducati item. Yes it comes with 5 male
fastons which can be plugged directly into the black
plastic Ducati connector. However the size is larger, and
the wires provided are a bit short. I am going to make up
an adapter to allow me to carry a Ducati as a spare until
such time as I invest in a further GR6.
In the circumstances, after my comments I don't suppose
anyone wants to buy a Ducati RR from me :-) ?
Richard Holder
G-OWWW
High Cross
PS Buying from Schicke in Germany involves sending a money
transfer as he does not accept credit cards. He charges 20
euros for the postage on any number of RRs, so a group
order would be sensible.
Message 8
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Svein,
If memory serves, the Europa supplied tubing is 6mm and the fittings are
1/4". A small difference, however enough to cause the problem you're
experiencing. I used the 1/4" nylo-flow tubing from AC Spruce, with
brass fittings, instead of the nylon ones, and have had no evidence of
leakage in over 200 hours...
Jeff
Baby Blue
Sidsel & Svein Johnsen wrote:
> Three days ago one of the black nylon brake tubes from the finger
> brake master cylinder to the parking brake valve popped off when
> lining up for take-off. I fixed it with a spare brass fitting with
> the white nylon press ring inside, and taxi tested it before taking
> off. Today, the exact same thing happened during run-up, so no flight.
>
> - Any suggestion as to why this happended the first/the second time?
> Must the tube be replaced if popping off (which I did not do but plan
> to do now)? Did I tighten it too much/too little (not possible to
> tighten more than I did the last time)? Perhaps I did not manage to
> push the tube fully in over the brass tube in the fitting on the valve?
>
> - While I am waiting for some more brass/nylon fittings from Europa, I
> wonder if anyone has found a better nylon tubing/press fitting that go
> onto the connectors we have? The black nylon tube looks so slippery
> that it is almost a wonder that more of them have not popped off.
>
> (yes, I know I should have replaced it all with aluminum tubing during
> construction, but that is not my question!)
>
> Best regards,
> Svein
> LN-SKJ
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 9
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Svein
Ihad exactly the same problem when doing my first taxying test but both
went one after the other. Fortunately the grass was long enough to stop
us.
Jeff is correct re the different sizes and I have used the brass/brass
screw ons from ACS with good success during the recent flight testing.
Steve Pitt G-SMDH
Message 10
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I have also had a pipe blow off. I have noticed three different types of
securing nut supplied by Europa. There is the Black plastic insert. A white
one and also a brass (coloured) metal one.
On a related subject, does any one know what the factory is now using to
replace the Jamar master cylinder unit on the finger brakes?
Simon
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven Pitt
Sent: 17 September 2006 20:52
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Brake tube
Svein
Ihad exactly the same problem when doing my first taxying test but both went
one after the other. Fortunately the grass was long enough to stop us.
Jeff is correct re the different sizes and I have used the brass/brass screw
ons from ACS with good success during the recent flight testing.
Steve Pitt G-SMDH
Message 11
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jerry Rehn" <rehn@rockisland.com>
I am about to replace the 17mm coolant lines and was wondering what others
have used. Someone told me they used 5/8ths auto hose. 17mm is available
from Lockwood but is very expensive. Aircraft Spruce have 5/8ths Aeroquip
milspec for about 1/4th the rotax cost.
I ordered the co4 and co5 hose that goes to and from the radiator from
Europa but was looking in US for the small diam. hose.
Thanks for help.
Jerry
Mono 914
Message 12
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Subject: | Adjustable rudder cable length or not? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Wondering if I could get opinion if it is worth it to install some form of
rudder cable length adjustment?
>From those who have adjustable length, how often have you /do you adjust?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Adjustable rudder cable length or not? |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2@ntlworld.com>
Ron
I fitted turnbuckles in G-SMDH as I was concerned about measuring the length
of the rudder cables required accurately and then fitting the end eyes. The
turnbuckles add weight but not a lot and mean that as the cables change in
use (I believe they stretch) you can adjust. As I have only just started
flying I do not know how often it is necessary to use the adjustment.
My only criticism of my installation is that I had to think carefully about
the position and I now realise that I have to stretch a little too far in
through the back 'D' to get to one side (I staggered the turnbuckles).
I am sure others will have perfectly good reasons for not fitting or putting
them elsewhere.
Steve Pitt
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