---------------------------------------------------------- Europa-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 09/17/06: 13 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:45 AM - Old Sarum Fly in (G-IANI) 2. 03:03 AM - Hot and cold air (josok) 3. 06:36 AM - Cabin Heat (TELEDYNMCS@aol.com) 4. 07:24 AM - Re: Cabin Heat (gdh) 5. 08:06 AM - Re: Cabin Heat (G-IANI) 6. 10:05 AM - Brake tube (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen) 7. 10:25 AM - Dodgy Regulator - Update (Richard Holder) 8. 11:29 AM - Re: Brake tube (Rman) 9. 12:57 PM - Re: Brake tube (Steven Pitt) 10. 01:30 PM - Re: Brake tube (Simon Smith) 11. 05:19 PM - Coolant lines (Jerry Rehn) 12. 08:56 PM - Adjustable rudder cable length or not? () 13. 11:11 PM - Re: Adjustable rudder cable length or not? (Steven Pitt) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:45:43 AM PST US From: "G-IANI" Subject: Europa-List: Old Sarum Fly in Old Sarum Europa Fly In Saturday September 23rd 06 Come and meet the three resident Europas Free Landing and Fuel available Non Flying builders and potential owners Welcome You might even get a ride If you plan (weather permitting) to attend please contact Ian Rickard on 01483 714096 or e-mail (g-iani @ntlworld.com) By letting me know we can organise reserved Tables for Lunch (or Barbeque depending on numbers) Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:03:16 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Hot and cold air From: "josok" --> Europa-List message posted by: "josok" Gerry Hollands pictures of his solution are to be found in the europaowners picture gallery in a sub album under builders pictures. Also a pdf file containing Rob Housemans solution has been added to the documents section of the forum. Attached are some pictures from the pdf Kind Regards, Jos Okhuijsen ---------------- This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link: http://www.europaowners.org/viewtopic.php?p=12681#12681 ---------------- Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/ ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:36:59 AM PST US From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com Subject: Europa-List: Cabin Heat Hi Guys, I installed cabin heat in N245E, adapting the Jabiru cabin heat kit, plus some modifications of my own. It uses a heat muff to take heat off of the exhaust expansion chamber. The muff is manufactured by Jabiru, but could probably be adapted to a Rotax exhaust. The recent cooler temps here in SE Tennessee shows that it works quite well. I fabricated a trapazoid shaped stainless panel from the same material as the stainless firewall. This panel fits inbetween the frame members of the lower forward portion of the engine mount. The panel is secured using four adel clamps around the engine mount frame, providing cushioning from vibration. The panel itself is attached to the adel clamps using 1/2" x 8-32 SS pan head screws, mating to blind nuts rivited to the adel clamps. The fresh air feed comes from a NACA vent on the right side of the lower cowl and is ducted via 2" SCAT tube. Using a "homebuilders cabin heat box", available from ACS or Suncoast Sportplanes, I rivited the heat box to the stainless panel, allowing the hot air exit flange to pass rearward through the stainless panel though a 2" hole cut in the panel. The hot air then passes into a "T" I made from 52mm (2") thin walled (.049") aluminum tubing. The "T" then directs the hot air left and right through the inside side wall of each footwell, about 4" above the rudder pedal tubes, using a 2" aluminum flange (ACS # 08-04135). 2" SCAT connects it all together. This puts the hot air right onto your toes. ~TOASTY~ Control of the cabin heat box is by a knob and cable arrangement located on the center console. If anybody is worried about CO, check out the electronic CO monitors available from www.aeromedix.com . I have one mounted in N245E and other than a brief alarm on the first flight, it hasn't chirped once in 30+ hours of flight time. These electronic CO monitors are VASTLY superior to the old "black spot" card type CO detectors. I can provide pictures and additional details if anybody is interested. Regards, John Lawton Dunlap, TN N245E - Flying - 30.5 hours and adding a few more today...... ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:24:56 AM PST US From: "gdh" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cabin Heat John, Pictures would be much appreciated. Have you found any springs to replace the nose gear bungee? If not, we should put together a bulk order from Europa. Dale ----- Original Message ----- From: TELEDYNMCS@aol.com To: europa-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 6:35 AM Subject: Europa-List: Cabin Heat Hi Guys, I installed cabin heat in N245E, adapting the Jabiru cabin heat kit, plus some modifications of my own. It uses a heat muff to take heat off of the exhaust expansion chamber. The muff is manufactured by Jabiru, but could probably be adapted to a Rotax exhaust. The recent cooler temps here in SE Tennessee shows that it works quite well. I fabricated a trapazoid shaped stainless panel from the same material as the stainless firewall. This panel fits inbetween the frame members of the lower forward portion of the engine mount. The panel is secured using four adel clamps around the engine mount frame, providing cushioning from vibration. The panel itself is attached to the adel clamps using 1/2" x 8-32 SS pan head screws, mating to blind nuts rivited to the adel clamps. The fresh air feed comes from a NACA vent on the right side of the lower cowl and is ducted via 2" SCAT tube. Using a "homebuilders cabin heat box", available from ACS or Suncoast Sportplanes, I rivited the heat box to the stainless panel, allowing the hot air exit flange to pass rearward through the stainless panel though a 2" hole cut in the panel. The hot air then passes into a "T" I made from 52mm (2") thin walled (.049") aluminum tubing. The "T" then directs the hot air left and right through the inside side wall of each footwell, about 4" above the rudder pedal tubes, using a 2" aluminum flange (ACS # 08-04135). 2" SCAT connects it all together. This puts the hot air right onto your toes. ~TOASTY~ Control of the cabin heat box is by a knob and cable arrangement located on the center console. If anybody is worried about CO, check out the electronic CO monitors available from www.aeromedix.com . I have one mounted in N245E and other than a brief alarm on the first flight, it hasn't chirped once in 30+ hours of flight time. These electronic CO monitors are VASTLY superior to the old "black spot" card type CO detectors. I can provide pictures and additional details if anybody is interested. Regards, John Lawton Dunlap, TN N245E - Flying - 30.5 hours and adding a few more today...... ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:06:06 AM PST US From: "G-IANI" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cabin Heat John Lawton Thanks for the note. It would be nice if you could put the picture in the www.europaowners.org. picture gallery. Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) e-mail mods@europaclub.org.uk or direct g-iani@ntlworld.com ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:05:27 AM PST US From: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" Subject: Europa-List: Brake tube Three days ago one of the black nylon brake tubes from the finger brake master cylinder to the parking brake valve popped off when lining up for take-off. I fixed it with a spare brass fitting with the white nylon press ring inside, and taxi tested it before taking off. Today, the exact same thing happened during run-up, so no flight. - Any suggestion as to why this happended the first/the second time? Must the tube be replaced if popping off (which I did not do but plan to do now)? Did I tighten it too much/too little (not possible to tighten more than I did the last time)? Perhaps I did not manage to push the tube fully in over the brass tube in the fitting on the valve? - While I am waiting for some more brass/nylon fittings from Europa, I wonder if anyone has found a better nylon tubing/press fitting that go onto the connectors we have? The black nylon tube looks so slippery that it is almost a wonder that more of them have not popped off. (yes, I know I should have replaced it all with aluminum tubing during construction, but that is not my question!) Best regards, Svein LN-SKJ ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:25:02 AM PST US From: Richard Holder Subject: Europa-List: Dodgy Regulator - Update --> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Holder Team On Friday my GR6 Rectifier-Regulator (RR) arrived from Schicke in Germany. I fitted it yesterday and test-taxiied at high power. Today I flew it to Conington and back. This was all generated by my purchase of a new RR at the beginning of the year after my original failed at 175 hours. The new RR (and all three other new RRs that I tried) made my analog ammeter oscillate from 1 - 10 amps at 5700 rpm and from 1- 5 amps at 4600. At the same time two older RRs lent by other kind souls worked fine with no oscillations. There was an implication that I had a wiring fault in G-OWWW. Nigel Beale's solution was to "disconnect the ammeter" :-( I did not find that acceptable. I did use the 'faulty' RR for about 30 hours and I covered up the ammeter, almost, to avoid distraction. Today with Herr Schicke's RR there were no oscillations. It worked right ! So, although four faulty RRs seems to be unlikely it is actually true. I suspect that Ducati have changed the circuit (or are using a different poorer quality component) about 12 months ago. I have asked here and on the Rotax Engines list for anyone with experience of a new RR with an analog ammeter. I was looking for either "yes I have an oscillation" or "no I do not have an oscillation" when they had used a new RR. I had one response from Australia but his engine was now out of commission for another reason and he couldn't further confirm his position. I had not a single comment, yes or no, from anyone else. So I rather assume that no one fits my description. I am going to stick with the GR6 for now. I have told Nigel Beale that he needs to get the new RRs checked as he is sending out with new engines RRs which will give him grief when the builders finally start them up. I will post his reply. I am not hopeful that I will achieve any progress. Too expensive an implication if they confirm my findings :-( I have done my part with my tests over the last 9 months.I would recommend anyone who needs to replace their RR to buy from Herr Schicke. The GR6 is and isn't a direct replacement for the Ducati item. Yes it comes with 5 male fastons which can be plugged directly into the black plastic Ducati connector. However the size is larger, and the wires provided are a bit short. I am going to make up an adapter to allow me to carry a Ducati as a spare until such time as I invest in a further GR6. In the circumstances, after my comments I don't suppose anyone wants to buy a Ducati RR from me :-) ? Richard Holder G-OWWW High Cross PS Buying from Schicke in Germany involves sending a money transfer as he does not accept credit cards. He charges 20 euros for the postage on any number of RRs, so a group order would be sensible. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:29:22 AM PST US From: Rman Subject: Re: Europa-List: Brake tube Svein, If memory serves, the Europa supplied tubing is 6mm and the fittings are 1/4". A small difference, however enough to cause the problem you're experiencing. I used the 1/4" nylo-flow tubing from AC Spruce, with brass fittings, instead of the nylon ones, and have had no evidence of leakage in over 200 hours... Jeff Baby Blue Sidsel & Svein Johnsen wrote: > Three days ago one of the black nylon brake tubes from the finger > brake master cylinder to the parking brake valve popped off when > lining up for take-off. I fixed it with a spare brass fitting with > the white nylon press ring inside, and taxi tested it before taking > off. Today, the exact same thing happened during run-up, so no flight. > > - Any suggestion as to why this happended the first/the second time? > Must the tube be replaced if popping off (which I did not do but plan > to do now)? Did I tighten it too much/too little (not possible to > tighten more than I did the last time)? Perhaps I did not manage to > push the tube fully in over the brass tube in the fitting on the valve? > > - While I am waiting for some more brass/nylon fittings from Europa, I > wonder if anyone has found a better nylon tubing/press fitting that go > onto the connectors we have? The black nylon tube looks so slippery > that it is almost a wonder that more of them have not popped off. > > (yes, I know I should have replaced it all with aluminum tubing during > construction, but that is not my question!) > > Best regards, > Svein > LN-SKJ > > >------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:57:17 PM PST US From: "Steven Pitt" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Brake tube Svein Ihad exactly the same problem when doing my first taxying test but both went one after the other. Fortunately the grass was long enough to stop us. Jeff is correct re the different sizes and I have used the brass/brass screw ons from ACS with good success during the recent flight testing. Steve Pitt G-SMDH ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 01:30:24 PM PST US From: "Simon Smith" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Brake tube I have also had a pipe blow off. I have noticed three different types of securing nut supplied by Europa. There is the Black plastic insert. A white one and also a brass (coloured) metal one. On a related subject, does any one know what the factory is now using to replace the Jamar master cylinder unit on the finger brakes? Simon _____ From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven Pitt Sent: 17 September 2006 20:52 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Brake tube Svein Ihad exactly the same problem when doing my first taxying test but both went one after the other. Fortunately the grass was long enough to stop us. Jeff is correct re the different sizes and I have used the brass/brass screw ons from ACS with good success during the recent flight testing. Steve Pitt G-SMDH ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 05:19:41 PM PST US From: "Jerry Rehn" Subject: Europa-List: Coolant lines --> Europa-List message posted by: "Jerry Rehn" I am about to replace the 17mm coolant lines and was wondering what others have used. Someone told me they used 5/8ths auto hose. 17mm is available from Lockwood but is very expensive. Aircraft Spruce have 5/8ths Aeroquip milspec for about 1/4th the rotax cost. I ordered the co4 and co5 hose that goes to and from the radiator from Europa but was looking in US for the small diam. hose. Thanks for help. Jerry Mono 914 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:56:05 PM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Adjustable rudder cable length or not? From: --> Europa-List message posted by: Wondering if I could get opinion if it is worth it to install some form of rudder cable length adjustment? >From those who have adjustable length, how often have you /do you adjust? Thx. Ron Parigoris ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 11:11:28 PM PST US From: "Steven Pitt" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Adjustable rudder cable length or not? --> Europa-List message posted by: "Steven Pitt" Ron I fitted turnbuckles in G-SMDH as I was concerned about measuring the length of the rudder cables required accurately and then fitting the end eyes. The turnbuckles add weight but not a lot and mean that as the cables change in use (I believe they stretch) you can adjust. As I have only just started flying I do not know how often it is necessary to use the adjustment. My only criticism of my installation is that I had to think carefully about the position and I now realise that I have to stretch a little too far in through the back 'D' to get to one side (I staggered the turnbuckles). I am sure others will have perfectly good reasons for not fitting or putting them elsewhere. Steve Pitt