Today's Message Index:
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0. 12:47 AM - More Great List Comments - Please Make A Contribution! (Matt Dralle)
1. 03:57 AM - Re: To Those That Have Sanded Before Me... :) (kenatkinson)
2. 05:57 AM - Re: THANK YOU To Those That Have Sanded Before Me... :) (EuropaXSA276@aol.com)
3. 12:27 PM - Re: THANK YOU To Those That Have Sanded Before Me... :) (DuaneFamly@aol.com)
4. 12:35 PM - Re:Fishing Line Technique (Fred Klein)
5. 04:09 PM - Re: Re:Fishing Line Technique (Carl Pattinson)
6. 08:07 PM - Re: Flight testing and Airmaster controller (Troy Maynor)
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Subject: | More Great List Comments - Please Make A Contribution! |
Dear Listers,
There's a little less than one week left for this year's List Fund Raiser. I thought
it would a great time to share a few more of the great comments I've been
receiving from Contributors regarding what the Lists mean to them. There are
some particularly poignant ones in this batch and I encourage you to have a
look at some of them.
Don't forget that once you make your Contribution, the Contribution Squelch kicks
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this year! This holds true for the Realtime and Digest distributions and
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will also still be found on the Forums site and the List Browse).
Please make your Contribution today to support these List services! Pick up a
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http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
============================= WLAS #2 ============================
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Message 1
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Subject: | Re: To Those That Have Sanded Before Me... :) |
Where do I obtain some Cabosil?
Thanks in anticipation.
Ken.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: To Those That Have Sanded Before Me... :)
> <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
>
> Nev
> I have another trick which works for me. I mix in colloidal silica. Try
> this, mix up the Expancell then add a little Cabosil..Then you can add
> another pile of Expancell to get back to the same consistency. The Cabosil
> makes it spread easier. It does NOT affect the sandability.
> Then I spread it on over a pair of strimmer lines, remove the strimmer
> lines and after 15 minutes careful spread again to flatten the tramlines
> and its done. Controled thickness, and thick enough to not need any more
> filling. The Cabosil seems to lubricate the Expancell so it spreads easy.
> Probably the reason my stripes were hard and soft is that the sanded
> surfaces absorbed resin from the next ;layer of filler and went hard.
> Superfil doesn't do that for some reason, maybe it has talc in it?
> Graham
>
> NevEyre@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Hi Jack / All,
>>
>> If the Expancell / Epoxy is mixed runny enough to be combed on, it will
>> be too heavy, and much harder to sand.The Expancell mix should be almost
>> like bread dough to put on.... a real bugger to put on.... and impossible
>> to get on smoothly / thin. As mentioned before on here, fill too proud
>> ONCE, it will sand like dense balsa.... if you have to go back for a
>> second fill you may end up with different densities... which as Graham
>> mentioned, will sand away at different rates. If you managed to comb it
>> on, you will end up with stripes, if you have to fill an area, you will
>> get a ''tide mark''.
>>
>> Nev.
>>
>>*
>>*
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: THANK YOU To Those That Have Sanded Before Me... :) |
Many thanks for all the advice on such a tedious but important job in the
build process.
I'm the process of finding or building the "long Broads " for sanding now.
It appears that the 3m Hookit boards in various lengths will be just the ticket.
Hookit boards are 2.3/4 wide and come in lengths of 5" 7" and 16". They have
hook and loop fasteners to hold the paper in place. About $60 US for all three
on Ebay and various online body shop suppliers. The sandpaper is a bit
expensive. But is 3m quality stuff.
One More Thing...
In the archives there is reference to a "Fishing Line Technique" for laying
on the filler. However I can find no explanation of exactly what it is or how
it works. Can anyone help?
Thanks again guys.
Brian Skelly
Europa XS TriGear #A276
North Texas USA
You can see my build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: THANK YOU To Those That Have Sanded Before Me... :) |
Happy Turkey Weekend Brian,
The fishing line technique involves taping fishing line (I used 20 LB test
line which is about .020" thick) in parallel strips from the leading edge to the
trailing edge separated a little less than the width of your straightedge.
Then you plop your filler in between the two lines and spread it out from front
to back with your straightedge resting on the two fishing lines. This should
give you a consistent thickness and nice flat finish that you can then sand
lightly. After it's set you just pull up the fishing line and fill in the groove.
I set up several lines at a time and did my large areas fairly quickly.
I hope this helps.
Mike Duane
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300A
Message 4
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Subject: | Re:Fishing Line Technique |
Brian,
My understanding of this technique is that it involves lengths of
monofilament line which are draped chordwise over the wing (perhaps
weighted); filler is then applied in chordwise strokes w/ a squeegee.
The fishing lines act as thickness control screeds and are removed at
sometime prior to final cure of the filler.
I have no experience w/ this technique and doubtless others will
hopefully chime in.
Fred
A194
On Friday, November 24, 2006, at 05:56 AM, EuropaXSA276@aol.com wrote:
> In the archives there is reference to a "Fishing Line Technique" for
> laying on the filler. However I can find no explanation of exactly
> what it is or how it works.- Can anyone help?-
> -
Message 5
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Subject: | Re:Fishing Line Technique |
You are right about the fishing line technique but there is no need to
fill the gaps left by the fishing lines.
As soon as the filler is applied satisfactorily remove the lines and
warm with a hot air gun. This thins the filler mix enough to flow into
the gaps.
Dont overdo the heating though because the air in the filler mix expands
and causes pinholes.
BTW are there any classic Europas left (ie: wings still under
construction) ?
Yes thats how we did ours !!!
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Klein
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re:Fishing Line Technique
Brian,
My understanding of this technique is that it involves lengths of
monofilament line which are draped chordwise over the wing (perhaps
weighted); filler is then applied in chordwise strokes w/ a squeegee.
The fishing lines act as thickness control screeds and are removed at
sometime prior to final cure of the filler.
I have no experience w/ this technique and doubtless others will
hopefully chime in.
Fred
A194
On Friday, November 24, 2006, at 05:56 AM, EuropaXSA276@aol.com wrote:
In the archives there is reference to a "Fishing Line Technique" for
laying on the filler. However I can find no explanation of exactly what
it is or how it works. Can anyone help?
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Flight testing and Airmaster controller |
Steve,
It is always encouraging to read of sucess with the monowheel. I am still
working on mine when I can and have been tempted to try and change over to a
trike gear even though the extra time and cost. I will fly as a mono and see
then. I had some questions for you if you don't mind;
How much tail dragger time did you have before the Europa?
Did your insurance cost more because of the retractable gear and it also
being a tail dragger?
Did you get Europa specific training before you flew yours?
Thanks for the help and encouragement.
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
Weaverville, NC USA
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<Time: 12:09:17 PM PST US
From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Flight testing and Airmaster controller
Twenty hours are on the plane now. Was out yesterday for 2 and a half hours
and
burned 9.1 gallons of gas. Landings in the mon-wheel are becomming a
non-event.
Eight T&g's and 1 full stop resulted in no hair raising events.
Concentration
on the task at hand was all that was required. Now flying with only
one aboard results in very impressive performance. Take offs only require
giving
it the gas and keeping it straight. It leaps off the ground the moment back
pressure is taken off of the stick. Clean stalls are straight and true with
plenty of warning. Dirty stalls require some footwork to keep from falling
off on a wing. No worse than a 152 I had been in. CO levels have been
going
down with each minor mod. Latest mod: I removed the access door on the
bottom
of the fuselage for the gascolator and sump drains under the rear baggage
bay. This was replaced by a reverse scoop. If CO is coming in through the
flap slots this is in position to suck it right out
again. Did this after flyling with Bob Lindsay in a Liberty. There are 2
scoops
under the Liberty fuselage right about where my gascolator door is. It was
real convenient to do this already having a hole under my plane. The scoop
is pretty unobtrusive under there.
Squawks: Still need to fix my right strobe, think the cheap wire I used is
breaking
down under the high voltage. Strobe light and power supply is good, and
multimeter shows continuity to the wing tip, though no strobe flashing.
Kuntzleman
has a wingtip strobe light harness I am planning to pull through the
wing.
The Airmaster controller is no regulating the
propellor
in automatic mode. Manual switch works fine at controlling pitch. The
fuse
at the back side of the controller was reset. All wiring appears tight and
secure.
The slip ring contacts and wiring looks good. Has any one dealt with
this? Are there any other bench test other than those noted in the book?
Do
all of these things have to be sent to NZ to be checked out? Does anyone
know
of any US service reps?
Steve Hagar
A143
N40SH
Mesa AZ
Steve Hagar
hagargs@earthlink.net >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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