Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:25 AM - Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser! (Matt Dralle)
1. 01:34 AM - Re: canopy open (Raimo Toivio)
2. 04:13 AM - Re: canopy open (Graham Singleton)
3. 05:43 AM - Re: canopy open (William Daniell)
4. 08:26 AM - Re: canopy open (sqwk7000)
5. 09:01 AM - Cooling diffuser ()
6. 09:23 AM - Re: canopy open (Graham Singleton)
7. 09:53 AM - 914 Head bolts...Garry Stout (Kevin And Ann Klinefelter)
8. 11:17 AM - Oil return hose / 914 (Gert Dalgaard)
9. 11:44 AM - Re: Oil return hose / 914 (Dave_Miller@avivacanada.com)
10. 12:15 PM - Re: Cooling diffuser (Kim Prout)
11. 01:25 PM - Re: canopy open (Duncan & Ami McFadyean)
12. 02:17 PM - Re: Cooling diffuser (karelvranken)
13. 02:26 PM - Re: Oil return hose / 914 (R.C.Harrison)
14. 02:41 PM - Re: First Flight (Tom Friedland)
15. 02:58 PM - Re: canopy open (Dean Seitz)
16. 03:20 PM - Re: Cooling diffuser (Gilles Thesee)
17. 03:32 PM - Re: Oil return hose / 914 (Garry)
18. 03:39 PM - Re: Cooling diffuser (Graham Singleton)
19. 05:50 PM - Re: canopy open (Terry Seaver (terrys))
20. 06:28 PM - Re: Cooling diffuser (Steve Hagar)
Message 0
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Subject: | Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Well, its November 30th and that means three things...
1) Today I am now officially 43 years old... (arg...)
2) It marks that last "official" day of the List Fund Raiser!
3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year! :-)
If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and
no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support
their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way
to further the List operation and keep the bills paid.
I will be posting the List of Contributors next week, so make sure your name is
on it! :-)
Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly
appreciated.
List Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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----- I am not convinced of the desirability of having any additional
one locking mechanism to prevent opening in flight that might either
prevent the pilot/passenger or outside rescuers from opening the canopy
in the event of a crash landing. If, for example your engine failed on
takeoff and you had to make an immediate forced landing without being
able to choose where and without time to unlock the doors, you would not
wish to jeopardise your chances of survival further by being locked in.
Mike Gregory
Europa Club Safety Officer
Yes - that is the other side of the story. Same problem is
in cars when driving in "bad" cities: doors should be
locked to prevent possible robberies in traffic lights
but they should be open for possible accidents.
Best locks open automatically when crashed.
I tell more about my personal safety plan: passenger side
door is always locked by pip-pin. That is because no-pilot-
passenger (child for example) is irresponsible. It takes only
one second to open the door by lifting the lever ("hey what
the hell is this?"). When locked w pip-pin there is more time
and pilot can prevent stupid or accidentally opening.
Notice: when parked pip-pin is a passenger side door lock!
Pilot side: pilot decides if he/she uses pilot side pip-pin or not.
I think it is safe to use well after take-off when levelled and unlock
again well before landing.
Of course after emergency landing you can find yourself
on it=B4s side locked side upp...
By the way - I am not sure - but I think most Cessna pilots do
lock both of the doors before take-off. I checked also my Cessna
flying manual and there was a clear order: before take take-off
do close and lock the doors (this is also for comfort: if not locked
you cannot use your armrests - locking lever is on its way when
unlocked position).
Life and flying is full of choices, happily.
I want to point: this all is IMHO. Copy or not!
Raimo
====
Raimo M W Toivio
OH-XRT Europa XS Mono #417
OH-CVK C172 Skyhawk
OH-BLL Beechcraft C45 w radial engines (grounded)
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio@rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
Also I decided to use pip-pins to secure doors against unintentionally
opening during flight. There is also a label "remove pip pin before
landing" - that is for possible emergency exit.
Check an attachment.
Raimo
----- Original Message -----
From: jimpuglise@comcast.net
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: canopy open
We had an unlatched canopy incident here at Punta Gorda last
weekend. I Long Eze went in about a half mile from the departure end of
the runway. The pilot is 72 and has been flying the airplane for 25
years. He tried to hold the canopy down and fly the airplane at the
same time and it did not work very well. The airplane was pretty much
destroyed but he got out with some bruises and a few broken bones. I
think he is out of the hospital by now. The point for all of us is:
CHECKLIST -- CHECKLIST -- CHECKLIST
Jim Puglise A-283, Punta Gorda, FL
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Graham Singleton <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
>
>
> Chuck
> glad you had enough wits to FLY THE PLANE. :-)
> We can all learn from other peoples mishaps, thanks for telling
us.
>snip<
> Gra ham
Message 2
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I tend to agree, Mike. Mal MaClure in Australia developed a very cheap,
very simple way of making the doors safe and stopping the slight bowing
that occurs when the fresh air vents are open. Ever had your shirt
sleeve gently tugged by the slight draft going under the bottom edge of
the door? I've an idea Bob Berube did something similar?
He fitted a small nylon wedge to the door and the door frame mid way
along the bottom of the door, the two wedges just latch and hold when
the door is closed. The door flexes slightly as it latches and
unlatches, (don't worry about this) If the door isn't fully closed it
won't be latched but you may still get the front shoot bolt in. Then
after take off there will be an unusual draft through the gear lever
slot, it's caused byt the air being sucked out of the cockpit through
the back edge of the door.
Mal's mod means you just latch the door and if it's latched, close the
shoot bolts. If it isn't latched don't lock it.
Graham
Mike Gregory wrote:
> I am not convinced of the desirability of having any additional one
> locking mechanism to prevent opening in flight that might either
> prevent the pilot/passenger or outside rescuers from opening the
> canopy in the event of a crash landing. If, for example your engine
> failed on takeoff and you had to make an immediate forced landing
> without being able to choose where and without time to unlock the
> doors, you would not wish to jeopardise your chances of survival
> further by being locked in.
>
>
>
>*
>*
>
Message 3
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Is there any danger of the door flying off and damaging the tail - or is the
tail robust enough?
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Gregory
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 15:39
Subject: RE: Europa-List: canopy open
I quite agree that prevention is better than cure, and anything that people
do to pay attention to checklists/warning lights/checking security to ensure
that the canopy doors are properly locked before takeoff is to be welcomed.
I am not convinced of the desirability of having any additional one locking
mechanism to prevent opening in flight that might either prevent the
pilot/passenger or outside rescuers from opening the canopy in the event of
a crash landing. If, for example your engine failed on takeoff and you had
to make an immediate forced landing without being able to choose where and
without time to unlock the doors, you would not wish to jeopardise your
chances of survival further by being locked in.
Graham is right: you must FLY THE AEROPLANE. If, for whatever reason,
prevention has failed and a canopy door does unlatch in flight, then the
handling pilot should think very carefully before deciding to risk holding
onto the door if he is flying solo. Chuck Rhoads was fortunate to get away
with it ("the landing became interesting because I had never used my right
hand on the controls and thus there was no easy to control throttle, trim,
etc. The landing actually turned out to be pretty good..."). The Europa
will fly perfectly well after losing a door, and it may be far better to
have this happen and accept that there will be a relatively minor repair
than to risk the far more serious consequences of losing proper control, of
which we have been given vivid examples in previous messages.
Mike Gregory
Europa Club Safety Officer
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Raimo Toivio
Sent: 29 November 2006 19:15
Subject: Fw: Europa-List: canopy open
We had here in Finland about one year ago a similar accident and it was
fatal. After that and many other similar stories I decided to do something
and added four Honeywell micro switches - one for each shooting bolt. All of
them must be engaged to get green lights, they are serial connected.
Also I decided to use pip-pins to secure doors against unintentionally
opening during flight. There is also a label "remove pip pin before landing"
- that is for possible emergency exit.
Check an attachment.
Raimo
----- Original Message -----
From: jimpuglise@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: canopy open
We had an unlatched canopy incident here at Punta Gorda last weekend. I
Long Eze went in about a half mile from the departure end of the runway.
The pilot is 72 and has been flying the airplane for 25 years. He tried to
hold the canopy down and fly the airplane at the same time and it did not
work very well. The airplane was pretty much destroyed but he got out with
some bruises and a few broken bones. I think he is out of the hospital by
now. The point for all of us is:
CHECKLIST -- CHECKLIST -- CHECKLIST
Jim Puglise A-283, Punta Gorda, FL
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Graham Singleton <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
>
>
> Chuck
> glad you had enough wits to FLY THE PLANE. :-)
> We can all learn from other peoples mishaps, thanks for telling us.
>snip<
> Gra ham
Message 4
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I remember in the hot weather last year, on one occasion I taxied/held
with the canopy slightly open for fresh air (a common enough event, I
suppose). Once cleared for take off, I closed the door quickly and took
off. On the climb out I realised that the rear shoot bolt hadn't
engaged.
I completed one circuit, keeping speed low, landed, stopped, engaged
bolt then took off on the remaining (ample) runway. Naturally I was
concerned that I might lose the door, but it was a non-event.
Moral of story?
1. ALWAYS check ALL four bolts.
2. During build, ensure that the bolts throw adequate distance into
their holes. I recall that there was a mod that came round during my
build to thicken the door frames where the bolts go.
David
G-SHSH (builder but no longer owner)
Message 5
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Subject: | Cooling diffuser |
Has anyone changed the cooling air intake location and shape (diffuser)
for a XS / Rotax install?
It seems that if the duct was slight shorter with a proper shaped lip,
something like the Katana Extreme photo attached, may be a better
mousetrap??
By having the entrance of the diffuser airfoil shaped, if done properly
with the flat side on the inside, it could decrease speed and increase
pressure which is exact what we want, and even give a bit of forward
thrust.
Also included a picture of Gilles diffuser.
Ron P.
Message 6
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David
better still is to put bushes into the door frames, Europa will sell you
a second set
Graham
sqwk7000 wrote:
> 2. During build, ensure that the bolts throw adequate distance into
> their holes. I recall that there was a mod that came round during my
> build to thicken the door frames where the bolts go.
>
> David
> G-SHSH (builder but no longer owner)
Message 7
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Subject: | 914 Head bolts...Garry Stout |
Hi all,
I was just reading one of Lockwood's "Power On" aricles titled Keeping
Cool. The paragraph "Signs of an Overheated Engine" gives some telltale
signs, one which is " The cylinder head bolts suddenly become loose."
Garry, has she gotten too hot maybe? Do you use waterbased antifreeze or
Evans NPG+?
Garry wrote:
>
> Bob Harrison wrote................
>
> " Be sure to do the head re-torque
>
>> and valve reset (unless they are hydraulic) at no more than 5 hours,
>> then repeat every 5 hours to 25.
>
>
> I would like to remind all Rotax drivers to periodically check the
> torque on the head bolts of their engines. This past weekend I sprang
> a major in-flight oil leak necessitating an emergency landing. Oil
> was gushing from between the head and the cylinder. Upon landing I
> checked the head bolts on that cylinder and found two of the four to
> be less than finger loose. After tightening them up, I checked all
> the other cylinders too, and found 3 of the remaining 12 bolts to be
> slightly loose. All should be torqued to 200 inch pounds. For
> reference purposes, my 914 engine is 7 year old with almost 500 hours
> on it.........and I never checked the head bolt torque before.
>
> Garry Stout
> N4220S A060 TriGear
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Oil return hose / 914 |
Hi
I have had an quite unpleasant experience while doing my annual.
The last month or so I have noticed a ( - very week) smell of "hot
oil" sometimes during take of...... and funny enough only during take
of.
Could not localize the reason until now when disassembling the
different parts under the cowling for the 100 hours/annual check.
It looks like the oil - return - hose have been more than hot under
the asbestos - fire - sleeve, and therefore have changed to a kind of
"glasslike".
I am sure it would have collapsed within the next hours.
The oil - line have been routed according to Rotax installation
manual and instructions from Europa - app. 90 degree to the stb. side
and up alongside the intake manifold to the top of the oil-tank
The problem is on that piece of the hose that runs between the turbo
unit and the bottom of the engine.
You better put that oil-line on your check - list if you fly behind a
914' ...
FYI - I have never seen higher oil-temp's than 110C (app. 230F)
according to the log in my FlyDat.
Have other had similar experiences?
Gert
OY-GDS
NB - remember to make a notice about Endelave '07 in your
agenda :-)
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Oil return hose / 914 |
Gert,
A friend had the same problem with his 914 installation. The line had
"carbonized" and was quite brittle.
As far as I remember, he replaced the oil lines with Teflon lines from
Aircraft Spruce.
Dave 912S trigear
Gert Dalgaard <lgds@post6.tele.dk>
Sent by: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
11/30/2006 02:16 PM
Please respond to europa-list
To: europa-list@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Europa-List: Oil return hose / 914
Hi
I have had an quite unpleasant experience while doing my annual.
The last month or so I have noticed a ( - very week) smell of "hot oil"
sometimes during take of...... and funny-enough only during take of.
Could not localize the reason until now when-disassembling the different
parts under the cowling for the 100 hours/annual check.
It looks like the oil - return - hose have been more than hot under
the-asbestos - fire - sleeve, and therefore have changed to a kind of
"glasslike".
I am sure it would have collapsed within the next hours.
The oil - line have been-routed according to Rotax installation manual an
d
instructions from Europa - app. 90 degree to the stb. side and up
alongside the intake manifold to the top of the-oil-tank
The problem is on that piece of the hose that runs between the turbo unit
and the bottom of the engine.
You better put that oil-line on your check - list if you fly behind a 914'
...
FYI - I have never seen higher oil-temp's than 110C (app. 230F) according
to the log in my FlyDat.
Have other had-similar experiences?
Gert
OY-GDS-
NB - -- remember to make a notice about-Endelave '07 in your agenda
- -:-)
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Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Cooling diffuser |
Hello Ron!
You are correct to assume the XS cowling cooling intake will not work
properly if just using the raw edges as-is after cutting the shape out of
the front of the cowling. It is important to smooth the incoming air. You
can call me directly for some detail about this (I just don't have the time
right now to publish a complete dissertation about the Southern California
experiments....)
Kp
909-437-5151
Message 11
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Or use brass tube; better than alloy on alloy.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:26 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: canopy open
> <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
>
> David
> better still is to put bushes into the door frames, Europa will sell you a
> second set
> Graham
>
>
> sqwk7000 wrote:
>
>> 2. During build, ensure that the bolts throw adequate distance into their
>> holes. I recall that there was a mod that came round during my build to
>> thicken the door frames where the bolts go.
>> David
>> G-SHSH (builder but no longer owner)
>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Cooling diffuser |
Hello Ron,
Yes I changed the cooling air intake and the shape of the cowling on my XS.
At the moment the results are good. But we anyway need a controlable system
for the changing conditions and temperatures. I am working on a dynamic
balanced flap attached to the existing cooling duct aft of the oil radiator
and fitting in the cowling. At the moment it's to early to show what I am
doing because I need more tests and experience in flap control. Something
for long winter evenings. But if the papermen find that this is a
modification needing formulas and engineering reports than I put on the good
old cowling as ugly as it is.
Karel Vranken, F-PKRL # 447 XS Rotax 912 ULS, Airmaster CSU only 16 hours
and waiting for the papermen's final certificate.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 6:01 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Cooling diffuser
> Has anyone changed the cooling air intake location and shape (diffuser)
> for a XS / Rotax install?
>
> It seems that if the duct was slight shorter with a proper shaped lip,
> something like the Katana Extreme photo attached, may be a better
> mousetrap??
>
> By having the entrance of the diffuser airfoil shaped, if done properly
> with the flat side on the inside, it could decrease speed and increase
> pressure which is exact what we want, and even give a bit of forward
> thrust.
>
> Also included a picture of Gilles diffuser.
>
> Ron P.
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Oil return hose / 914 |
Hi! Gert
Whilst I'm not a 914 "driver" YET.. I seem to remember that there has
been an issue over this problem that involved re-routing the pipe
/changing the direction of the "banjo" fitting to take the hose away
from either the manifold or muffler heat?
I'm all ears for messages from those who have been previously informed.
Regards
Bob Harrison.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gert
Dalgaard
Sent: 30 November 2006 19:17
Subject: Europa-List: Oil return hose / 914
Hi
I have had an quite unpleasant experience while doing my annual.
The last month or so I have noticed a ( - very week) smell of "hot oil"
sometimes during take of...... and funny enough only during take of.
Could not localize the reason until now when disassembling the different
parts under the cowling for the 100 hours/annual check.
It looks like the oil - return - hose have been more than hot under the
asbestos - fire - sleeve, and therefore have changed to a kind of
"glasslike".
I am sure it would have collapsed within the next hours.
The oil - line have been routed according to Rotax installation manual
and instructions from Europa - app. 90 degree to the stb. side and up
alongside the intake manifold to the top of the oil-tank
The problem is on that piece of the hose that runs between the turbo
unit and the bottom of the engine.
You better put that oil-line on your check - list if you fly behind a
914' ...
FYI - I have never seen higher oil-temp's than 110C (app. 230F)
according to the log in my FlyDat.
Have other had similar experiences?
Gert
OY-GDS <http://home19.inet.tele.dk/dalgaard/oygds.jpg>
NB - remember to make a notice about Endelave '07
<http://home19.inet.tele.dk/dalgaard/IndbydelseGB.htm> in your agenda
:-)
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congratulations Al
Do you have Bob Linsay's phone #? My Jab/Airmaster XS mono is getting close
to cutting the bonds.
Tom Friedland N96V Ellensburg WA
On 11/28/06, AlStills <astills@cox.net> wrote:
>
>
> A note to all that N625AZ flew for the first time Tues 11/28/06. At 10:34
> AM
> local from KGEU (Glendale Ariz) at the extermely capable hands of
> Bob Lindsay. First take off was approx 500 ft, climb was normal. Bob took
> the plane to 3500 ft over the airport and flew for 45 mins before landing
> to a highly excited builder. All flight was normal, the Jabiru engine ran
> flawlessly. The plane flew straight and level with no trim imputs at all.
> Stalls
> were straight and level with no bad tendencies.
> At 4:00 PM the plane flew for it's second flight of about 30 mins to
> expand
> the flight envelope a little with 60Deg bank and 2 G turns. All was normal
> and successful. Tomorrow I'll take up with Bob and fly myself for the
> first
> time. (If I can get any sleep tonight).
>
> Al Stills
> N625AZ
>
>
Message 15
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<<<<Is there any danger of the door flying off and damaging the tail - or is
the tail robust enough? >>>>>
I can tell you from experience that the door will rip the hinges in half if
it opens at cruise speed!!!! Yes I made the mistake of not checking the
rear bolt in about the sixth hour on the plane. Was at 1600ft feeling the
air coming through the throttle slot trying to figure why. Door flew open
straight up. Before I could even think about grabbing it, it was gone. No
damage to airframe at all, just no door and mouth open. Aircraft flies fine
just don't try to use charts, a little windy. Built new door and always
check doors twice before takeoff.
Dean Seitz
N284A
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Cooling diffuser |
Ron and all,
> Also included a picture of Gilles diffuser.
>
For those interested, here is some info on the research I did on the
cooling of the 914
In (hopefully understandable) English :
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_aerodyn_radia_en.php
http://contrails.free.fr/tunnel_en.php
Still in French for some time :
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_air_inlets.php
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_liquide_refroid.php
Some pictures of our cowling
http://contrails.free.fr/diap/phpslideshow.php?directory=diapo_capot_if
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Oil return hose / 914 |
Actually, I was one of the earliest 914 Europa drivers in the
US.......first flight being in 1999. With about 50 hours of flight I
had the oil return line "carbonize", and burst in flight. Fortunately,
no fire but lots of smoke. The oil return line provided by Europa (or
perhaps it was Rotax), was junk. I replaced it with a stainless steel
braided oil line, covered the line with firesleave, and further wrapped
a stainless steel jacket around the line where it comes closest to the
exhaust system. 400 hours later, no problem.
A better solution however, is to turn the banjo fitting at the bottom of
the engine so as to face forward. Then route the oil return line
forward to the front of the engine and then backward to the oil tank,
keeping the line far away from any exhaust components. A "stock" oil
return line, fitted per instructions WILL burn up. Please take this
advice seriously.
Garry Stout
N4220S A060 Trigear
----- Original Message -----
From: R.C.Harrison
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Oil return hose / 914
Hi! Gert
Whilst I'm not a 914 "driver" YET.. I seem to remember that there has
been an issue over this problem that involved re-routing the pipe
/changing the direction of the "banjo" fitting to take the hose away
from either the manifold or muffler heat?
I'm all ears for messages from those who have been previously
informed.
Regards
Bob Harrison.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gert
Dalgaard
Sent: 30 November 2006 19:17
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Europa-List: Oil return hose / 914
Hi
I have had an quite unpleasant experience while doing my annual.
The last month or so I have noticed a ( - very week) smell of "hot
oil" sometimes during take of...... and funny enough only during take
of.
Could not localize the reason until now when disassembling the
different parts under the cowling for the 100 hours/annual check.
It looks like the oil - return - hose have been more than hot under
the asbestos - fire - sleeve, and therefore have changed to a kind of
"glasslike".
I am sure it would have collapsed within the next hours.
The oil - line have been routed according to Rotax installation manual
and instructions from Europa - app. 90 degree to the stb. side and up
alongside the intake manifold to the top of the oil-tank
The problem is on that piece of the hose that runs between the turbo
unit and the bottom of the engine.
You better put that oil-line on your check - list if you fly behind a
914' ...
FYI - I have never seen higher oil-temp's than 110C (app. 230F)
according to the log in my FlyDat.
Have other had similar experiences?
Gert
OY-GDS
NB - remember to make a notice about Endelave '07 in your agenda
:-)
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Subject: | Re: Cooling diffuser |
Gilles
It certainly does help. Have you had any discussions with Kim Prout? I
would love to listen to a conference between you two and Kim's father Paul.
How often do things have to be invented more than once?
Graham
Gilles Thesee wrote:
> For those interested, here is some info on the research I did on the
> cooling of the 914
>
> In (hopefully understandable) English :
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Regards,
> Gilles
> http://contrails.free.fr
Message 19
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Yes! If you feel air coming from the throttle slot, keep it slow and
return for an immediate landing.
A few months ago we went to Pine Mtn Lake for lunch and before the
return flight spent nearly a half hour with the door open on a hot day,
chatting with someone on the field. The door began warping in the heat,
so that when I closed the pilot's door, the rear bolt did not engage.
Immediately after take-off, we both noticed a breeze coming from the
gear retraction slot (it usually sucks air out at this location). All
was well at normal climb speed of about 80 kts, but when I leveled off
for a cruise climb of 100 kts the door popped open, BIG SURPRISE. The
door did not immediately depart the plane, and I quickly noticed that
left rudder would bring it back into arms reach. I reduced throttle and
yelled for my build partner in the right seat to take the plane, and
wrestled the door back and latched it. Although we did not lose the
door, we did lose the air strut. In retrospect, I think I did spend too
many brain cells on the door and way too few on flying the plane. It's
a good thing I had a pilot/passenger in the right seat.
I believe the event that finally caused the door to open was not the
increased airspeed, but the change in yaw that happened when I
transitioned from climb to cruise(climb).
Regards,
Terry Seaver
N135TD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dean Seitz
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 2:58 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: canopy open
<<<<Is there any danger of the door flying off and damaging the tail -
or is the tail robust enough? >>>>>
I can tell you from experience that the door will rip the hinges in half
if it opens at cruise speed!!!! Yes I made the mistake of not checking
the rear bolt in about the sixth hour on the plane. Was at 1600ft
feeling the air coming through the throttle slot trying to figure why.
Door flew open straight up. Before I could even think about grabbing it,
it was gone. No damage to airframe at all, just no door and mouth open.
Aircraft flies fine just don't try to use charts, a little windy. Built
new door and always check doors twice before takeoff.
Dean Seitz
N284A
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Subject: | Cooling diffuser |
Ron:
I have changed the intake nostrils on the cowl to the 914 and have had
very good luck with keeping it cool in the AZ heat. The original round
configuration has the exhaust headers centered in the hole without much
view of the cylinder fins. I opened up each hole to the inboard side
about 1 inch having the radius decrease as it got closer to the inboard
side. Now each nostril is egg shaped with a commanding view of each
cylinder fin bank. Special pains were made to extend the lip of the new
portion of the hole inside of the cowling to avoid having the air spill
off of the inside edge and become turbulent. The length of the edge
toward the innermost side of each hole is about an inch deep. It makes for
good airflow toward the cylinder fins and presents a good appearance from
the outside.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
20 hours of flight testing
Steve Hagar
hagargs@earthlink.net
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