Europa-List Digest Archive

Tue 01/02/07


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:36 AM - Mono Trailer (David Joyce)
     2. 09:33 AM - Questions Curing the Control bits. (EuropaXSA276@aol.com)
     3. 09:51 AM - Re: Questions Curing the Control bits. (AlStills)
     4. 10:33 AM - Re: Questions Curing the Control bits. (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
     5. 02:15 PM - Re: Questions Curing the Control bits. (AlStills)
     6. 03:23 PM - Re: Questions Curing the Control bits. (Graham Singleton)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:36:20 AM PST US
    From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
    Subject: Mono Trailer
    1/2 Share of enclosed mono trailer for 1,000! My trailer gets used just once a year to store bits while I am doing the annual, and it has occurred to me that it would make my life easier if someone else looked after it the rest of the year!! I am happy to offer a half share in it + full time use thereof (except for the 2 days of my annual + any unexpected need to retrieve my plane from somewhere) for 1000. The only conditions are that the buyer looks after it for the rest of the year (and can keep his plane in it permanently if he likes) and that he lives within 100 miles of exit 14 M5 (half way between Bristol & Gloucester). The trailer is a nice fit for my XS,1600mm diameter prop, kit no 402, and comes with an adjustable height dolly, which bolts snug and tight to the pane and to the trailer Any interest 01454 260542 David Joyce, , G-XSDJ


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:33:34 AM PST US
    From: EuropaXSA276@aol.com
    Subject: Questions Curing the Control bits.
    Happy New Year Cums! I am still lost in the endless sanding and dust of filling. Not too bad of a job actually. At times I think it might even be therapeutic! Questions to the group. 1) It is my assumption that one should cure the epoxy of the control surfaces after the filling is completed?? Stands to reason since said material is also made of epoxy?? 2) What about curing AFTER applying UV Smooth Prime? Yes? No? 3) Are you fine folk also bothering to cure the fuselage and the XS style wings? If so, Why? Thanks in advance. If anyone is traveling close to the area and has a few hours of free time....... Brian Skelly Europa XS TriGear #A276 North Texas USA You can see my build photos at: http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:51:45 AM PST US
    From: "AlStills" <astills@cox.net>
    Subject: Questions Curing the Control bits.
    Brian, I cured mine after sanding, and then had to re cure after I painted. When you cure...cure to 190 Deg's F and your's should be stable through the hot summers. The summers here in Phoenix didn't like 160 Deg cures and the alerons warped in the summer heat, hence, re cure. No I did not cure the fuse but did the wings.( here in Phoenix I placed large "black" plastic bags over wings,sealed, and let set out all day in the 115 Deg's heat, and then took back in in the evening after it cooled down. Haven't had a problem with them. Al Stills N625AZ


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:33:33 AM PST US
    From: jimpuglise@comcast.net
    Subject: Questions Curing the Control bits.
    Al- The plastic bag is a good idea. I should do mine also, probably using the same method. Did you put any means of monitoring the temp in the bag, and did you support the wings / ailerons in multiple places while they cured? Large plastic garbage bags shond like a good way to go. Jim - A-283, Punta Gorda, FL -------------- Original message -------------- From: "AlStills" <astills@cox.net> > > Brian, > I cured mine after sanding, and then had to re cure after I painted. When > you cure...cure to 190 Deg's F and your's should be stable through the hot > summers. The summers here in Phoenix didn't like 160 Deg cures and the > alerons warped in the summer heat, hence, re cure. No I did not > cure the fuse but did the wings.( here in Phoenix I placed large "black" > plastic bags over wings,sealed, and let set out all day in the 115 Deg's > heat, and then > took back in in the evening after it cooled down. Haven't had a problem with > them. > Al Stills > N625AZ > > > > > > <html><body> <DIV>Al-</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>The plastic bag is a good idea.&nbsp; I should do mine also, probably using the same method.&nbsp; Did you put any means of monitoring the temp in the bag, and did you support the wings / ailerons in multiple places while they cured?&nbsp; Large plastic garbage bags shond like a good way to go.&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Jim - A-283, Punta Gorda, FL</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> ===== <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier"> </b></font></pre></body></html>


    Message 5


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    Time: 02:15:33 PM PST US
    From: "AlStills" <astills@cox.net>
    Subject: Questions Curing the Control bits.
    Jim, Yes I supported the wings in the bags (didn't want any sagging) but did not monitor temps in bags. I figured at 115 deg's ambient, in full sunlight it got to be approx 160 in the (using my truck thermometer as a gauge) bags. As for the flying surfaces, yes I did put a probe in the plywood tunnel I built. I consulted a fiberglass expert that I know about the warping of the ailerons and his suggesting was to take to 190-200 deg's for 1 1/2 hr with the surfaces clamped for straightness and then cool slowly, so that's what I did. Haven't had any more movement in any of the surfaces since then. Here in Phoenix when the temps get to 115 Deg's the tarmac temps can easily get to 150 degs and 160 degs in a enclosed hanger with no air movement, so cook all your surfaces to more than you think, you'll need. It will save having to re do later. Al Stills N625AZ


    Message 6


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    Time: 03:23:41 PM PST US
    From: Graham Singleton <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: Questions Curing the Control bits.
    All If you have foam wings and tail surfaces, (Classic) don't forget that the foam is more sensitive than the resin. I once saw a flap inflated like a balloon. I don't know what the temperature limit should be, I would guess no more than 55 deg C, Neville, you know more than I about this? Graham > >Jim, >Yes I supported the wings in the bags (didn't want any sagging) but did not >monitor temps in bags. I figured at 115 deg's ambient, in full sunlight >it got to be approx 160 in the (using my truck thermometer as a gauge) bags. >As for the flying surfaces, yes I did put a probe in the plywood tunnel I >built. I consulted a fiberglass expert >that I know about the warping of the ailerons and his suggesting was to take >to 190-200 deg's for 1 1/2 hr with the surfaces clamped for >straightness and then cool slowly, so that's what I did. Haven't had any >more movement in any of the surfaces since then. Here in Phoenix when >the temps get to 115 Deg's the tarmac temps can easily get to 150 degs and >160 degs in a enclosed hanger with no air movement, so cook all >your surfaces to more than you think, you'll need. It will save having to re >do later. >Al Stills >N625AZ > > > >




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