Europa-List Digest Archive

Wed 02/07/07


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:32 PM - Corrosion Proofing (flyingphil2)
     2. 02:29 PM - Re: Corrosion Proofing (Jeff B)
     3. 02:31 PM - Re: Corrosion Proofing ()
 
 
 


Message 1


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 12:32:47 PM PST US
    Subject: Corrosion Proofing
    From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller@lolacars.com>
    Hi, I'm starting to work through all the metal parts and am thinking about corrosion proofing. I've been advised to use Zinc Chromate on aluminium parts and Zinc Oxide on steel parts which makes sense. Hard anodising has been suggested to me and a search on this list reveals all sorts of other options. The Zinc Chromate option sounds great but I realise that I may be dead from it before I get the plane built! So, a lot of people on this list have aircraft that have now been flying for a while. Can you tell me from experience what has worked and also what you consider to be best for the plane and indeed the person applying it! Thanks, Phil Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 2


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 02:29:39 PM PST US
    From: Jeff B <topglock@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing
    Phil, All my metal parts, at least those not treated at the factory, are coated with zinc chromate. I've been in the air for almost two years, with over 250 hours on the aircraft. No corrosion to report and I survived the process in good shape... Jeff - Baby Blue flyingphil2 wrote: > > Hi, > > I'm starting to work through all the metal parts and am thinking about corrosion proofing. I've been advised to use Zinc Chromate on aluminium parts and Zinc Oxide on steel parts which makes sense. Hard anodising has been suggested to me and a search on this list reveals all sorts of other options. The Zinc Chromate option sounds great but I realise that I may be dead from it before I get the plane built! > > So, a lot of people on this list have aircraft that have now been flying for a while. Can you tell me from experience what has worked and also what you consider to be best for the plane and indeed the person applying it! > > Thanks, > > Phil > > > Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org > > >


    Message 3


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 02:31:15 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing
    From: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
    Hello Phil Straight from the mfg. Zinc Chromate needs a top coat to be most effective. I know plenty of folk use it, it is however porous. Self etch zinc chromate uses up half of its magic to neutralize acid. Chemicals with acid and plating work OK but a pain to do. My favorite corrosion protect ant is PPG DPLF! It is a 2 part epoxy primer, it does not let in moisture. If you scuff surface it sticks better than any paint I have tried. Works on aluminium, steel and fiberglass. Downright amazing. It does not have UV inhibitors though. When I do Mod 72, I will paint both ID and OD with DPLF,and assemble wet. When I made precision pins for tailplane torque tube, I used wet paint as an assembly lube, and coated the ID of the TT as well. Painting bare fiberglass, DPLF thin and let it full cure before applying top coat or K-36 high build primer. Adhesion is great. One word of advise, if you are going over self etch primer with DPLF you need to wait till it is full dry. Whatever the mfg says, I find it takes a lot longer. If you put DPLF over slight not dried self etch, or slight not dried solvent, it will not allow the solvents to permiate. It will not adhere as well as it has ability to do. If you take a razor blade or sharp scraper and can peel off the DPLF, smell sample, if you detect solvent, you didn't wait long enough. I poured hot linseed oil inside aluminium and steel tubes and poured out after coating and sealed things up. Ron P.




    Other Matronics Email List Services

  • Post A New Message
  •   europa-list@matronics.com
  • UN/SUBSCRIBE
  •   http://www.matronics.com/subscription
  • List FAQ
  •   http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm
  • Web Forum Interface To Lists
  •   http://forums.matronics.com
  • Matronics List Wiki
  •   http://wiki.matronics.com
  • 7-Day List Browse
  •   http://www.matronics.com/browse/europa-list
  • Browse Europa-List Digests
  •   http://www.matronics.com/digest/europa-list
  • Browse Other Lists
  •   http://www.matronics.com/browse
  • Live Online Chat!
  •   http://www.matronics.com/chat
  • Archive Downloading
  •   http://www.matronics.com/archives
  • Photo Share
  •   http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
  • Other Email Lists
  •   http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
  • Contributions
  •   http://www.matronics.com/contribution

    These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.

    -- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --