Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:32 PM - Corrosion Proofing (flyingphil2)
2. 02:29 PM - Re: Corrosion Proofing (Jeff B)
3. 02:31 PM - Re: Corrosion Proofing ()
Message 1
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Subject: | Corrosion Proofing |
Hi,
I'm starting to work through all the metal parts and am thinking about corrosion
proofing. I've been advised to use Zinc Chromate on aluminium parts and Zinc
Oxide on steel parts which makes sense. Hard anodising has been suggested to
me and a search on this list reveals all sorts of other options. The Zinc Chromate
option sounds great but I realise that I may be dead from it before I
get the plane built!
So, a lot of people on this list have aircraft that have now been flying for a
while. Can you tell me from experience what has worked and also what you consider
to be best for the plane and indeed the person applying it!
Thanks,
Phil
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Corrosion Proofing |
Phil,
All my metal parts, at least those not treated at the factory, are
coated with zinc chromate. I've been in the air for almost two years,
with over 250 hours on the aircraft. No corrosion to report and I
survived the process in good shape...
Jeff - Baby Blue
flyingphil2 wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm starting to work through all the metal parts and am thinking about corrosion
proofing. I've been advised to use Zinc Chromate on aluminium parts and Zinc
Oxide on steel parts which makes sense. Hard anodising has been suggested
to me and a search on this list reveals all sorts of other options. The Zinc
Chromate option sounds great but I realise that I may be dead from it before
I get the plane built!
>
> So, a lot of people on this list have aircraft that have now been flying for
a while. Can you tell me from experience what has worked and also what you consider
to be best for the plane and indeed the person applying it!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Corrosion Proofing |
Hello Phil
Straight from the mfg. Zinc Chromate needs a top coat to be most
effective. I know plenty of folk use it, it is however porous. Self etch
zinc chromate uses up half of its magic to neutralize acid.
Chemicals with acid and plating work OK but a pain to do.
My favorite corrosion protect ant is PPG DPLF! It is a 2 part epoxy
primer, it does not let in moisture. If you scuff surface it sticks better
than any paint I have tried. Works on aluminium, steel and fiberglass.
Downright amazing. It does not have UV inhibitors though.
When I do Mod 72, I will paint both ID and OD with DPLF,and assemble wet.
When I made precision pins for tailplane torque tube, I used wet paint as
an assembly lube, and coated the ID of the TT as well.
Painting bare fiberglass, DPLF thin and let it full cure before applying
top coat or K-36 high build primer. Adhesion is great.
One word of advise, if you are going over self etch primer with DPLF you
need to wait till it is full dry. Whatever the mfg says, I find it takes a
lot longer. If you put DPLF over slight not dried self etch, or slight not
dried solvent, it will not allow the solvents to permiate. It will not
adhere as well as it has ability to do. If you take a razor blade or sharp
scraper and can peel off the DPLF, smell sample, if you detect solvent,
you didn't wait long enough.
I poured hot linseed oil inside aluminium and steel tubes and poured out
after coating and sealed things up.
Ron P.
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