Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:32 AM - Re: Paint (R.C.Harrison)
2. 04:34 AM - Re: A198 Monowheel Over Center stats & anybody flying with the gear down and locked? (Kingsley Hurst)
3. 08:47 AM - Re: Flap motor (Alan Burrows)
4. 12:25 PM - Re: Re: Flap motor (NevEyre@aol.com)
5. 12:39 PM - Re: Re: Flap motor (Simon Smith)
6. 12:42 PM - Re: A198 Monowheel Over Center stats & anybody flying with the g... (NevEyre@aol.com)
7. 01:23 PM - Re: Re: Flap motor (Alan Burrows)
8. 02:21 PM - Re: Re: Flap motor (Duncan & Ami McFadyean)
9. 02:57 PM - Mod 72 and Airmaster Prop (tony.bale@virgin.net)
10. 03:40 PM - Another Mod 72 complete (rlborger)
11. 04:37 PM - Propeller (UVTReith@aol.com)
12. 04:47 PM - Re: What is this important piece of Europa build? (SteveD)
13. 05:47 PM - Re: What is this important piece of Europa build? (EuropaXSA276@aol.com)
14. 10:36 PM - Re: What is this important piece of Europa build? ()
Message 1
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Hi! Troy
I used CA 40,000 by Pro-Desoto International Ltd. ...In the Uk they are
at "Sealands and Coatings", Darlington Road, Shilton. Tel 0044(0) 1388
772541
(or more correctly the RAF used my supplied paint for me!) The Aero
Industry use this paint extensively and I was given to understand that
Air France used it exclusively 7 years ago. It must have a good "key"
surface though. They are a little difficult to deal with though
..usually supply to "big" customers!
I had a Sales Rep mobile number Ian Toole 0044(0) 777 814 0567 but he
may have moved on by now.
Google UK puts them as a subsidiary of PPG Industries California.
Mine is an excellent hard gloss finish needing only washing for
maintenance. The "key" surface is very important though otherwise you
just may get the occasional osmosis bubble, and any base coat pin holes
will need "ragging".
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG (awaiting Rotax 914 first week in April and
Woodcomp Scimitar SR 3000 soon after!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]
Sent: 12 March 2007 02:01
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Europa-List: Paint
Hey Folks,
I know this has been talked to death but here goes
anyway. I have decided I can fill, prime, and sand til doomsday or just
paint it. I think I have gotten it reasonably smooth but have ended up
with NOT a complete covering of Polyfiber UV Smoothprime in the process.
I am determined to go no further with the sanding portion to remove
anymore or put anymore on now that it is smooth. But will someone give
me a definitive formula of primers (epoxy?) and paint combinations,
including brands, potion numbers etc, that will act as a UV blocker and
give me a glossy, repairable/upgradable paint job that can be color
sanded (by someone else if desired) but not requirred, to get the "wet
look"? I hope this makes sense. I guess in a nutshell, can I get UV
protection from the finish process, not relying on a partial coat of UV
smooth prime?
What about the shop in Lakeland that did so many
Europas? I know they preferred no pre-priming at all. What products did
they use? Can anyone tell me the details of their mix? They sure made
Bob Berube's plane sparkle.
Cast your vote here.
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,(some) interior,engine install, (some) wiring.
Weaverville, NC USA
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: A198 Monowheel Over Center stats & anybody flying with |
the gear down and locked?
Cleve Lee wrote:-
>This weekend I took the time to disassemble my mono gear which had been
assembled a few years ago. I took some measurements.
> Using feeler gauges, one Port swing arm was .055" away from seating
when the Starboard leg was against the stop. Doing the Trig, after
grinding this down to equal seating, this provided .8 degree improvement
in Over Center condition.
Hello Cleve,
If your Port swing arm (LG08) was .055" away from the stop when the
Starboard one was against the stop, as far as I can see, this would mean
that there was a fairly good chance the LG08 arms were either not pinned
correctly in the first place or one or both of the roll pins securing
the LG08 arms is/are slightly sheared.
The important thing to check is that the two LG08 arms are in the same
plane when viewed from the side. If they are and they don't both
contact their respective stops simultaneously, then one of the stops is
shorter than the other.
If your arms are NOT in the same plane and you have adjusted the length
of one of the stops as it appears you may have, then neither the arms
nor the stops will be correct.
After pinning mine the first time as per the procedure in the manual,
although both arms touched the stops together, the arms were NOT in the
same plane. This is when I discovered the stops were not the same
lengths. Refer to my recent posting and photos.
Before adjusting the lengths of the stops, I repinned the arms to the
shaft making use of the perfectly flat surface of my drill press table
to make sure the arms were in the same plane. After this was achieved,
I then shortened the longer of the two stops.
Cleve, like a lot of topics on this list, I think the over centre debate
has reached it's climax and will now fade away. There are a lot of mono
Europas flying that have not had uncommanded gear retraction problems so
if I were you, I wouldn't contemplate locking the gear down. If you can
positively identify any problems with the geometry in your landing gear
and remove all the things that have been known to cause problems, I'm
sure you will be rewarded with a reliable undercarriage for many hours
to come. (Says I who is not flying yet and will probably end up eating
humble pie . . . so I'll leave it to others on the list to shoot me
down)
Regards
Kingsley in Oz
Message 3
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Just before I shipped the aircraft over to the USA I fitted a new flap motor
as the old one had died. As you would expect (with my luck). E04 had changed
the design of the motor and therefore I had to re position the mountings.
Because of the tight timescale for shipping. I never got a chance to flight
test this motor until yesterday (yes I actually went flying..!). I notice
that the new motor seems a lot slower than the original. The time from zero
flap to full flaps is 17 seconds and retracting back to zero is 18 seconds.
Has anyone else noticed this and is it normal with the later flap motors?
Many Thanks in advance.
Alan
Trigear 914
N134AB
(look out America its now flying..!)
10:58
--
08:41
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Flap motor |
Hi Alan,
Yes, the newer flap drive motors are much slower in operation, the supply of
the original ones dried up when the manufacturer discovered where they were
ending up..... a few were purchased covertly, but in the end they
sussed......... the only ones that could be found to fit the bill were the ones
currently available.
So, not a problem with your motor, they are all that way.
Cheers,
Nev.
Message 5
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Mine has the zippy motor but the aircraft that I did my check out in was
much slower. I know that I have the "old" type but what was in the other I
don't know.
Simon
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Burrows
Sent: 12 March 2007 15:43
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Flap motor
Just before I shipped the aircraft over to the USA I fitted a new flap motor
as the old one had died. As you would expect (with my luck). E04 had changed
the design of the motor and therefore I had to re position the mountings.
Because of the tight timescale for shipping. I never got a chance to flight
test this motor until yesterday (yes I actually went flying..!). I notice
that the new motor seems a lot slower than the original. The time from zero
flap to full flaps is 17 seconds and retracting back to zero is 18 seconds.
Has anyone else noticed this and is it normal with the later flap motors?
Many Thanks in advance.
Alan
Trigear 914
N134AB
(look out America its now flying..!)
-- Date: 08/03/2007 10:58
--
12/03/2007 08:41
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: A198 Monowheel Over Center stats & anybody flying with |
the g...
Attn Kingsley,
I sent you an email last week after your request for me to contact you, had
no reply from you, perhaps my aol [ another one lost ? ] system is stopping
them getting through ?
Try sending via John Wheeler, he can forward to me ?
G'day mate.
Nev.
Message 7
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Thanks Nev.
That=92s a relief. I guess I just stay with it then. Do you happen to
know who
it was that supplied the original motors as I may go direct and try to
get
hold of some. I can usually get what I want when I need to :-)
Sorry I didn=92t get back to you about the tie downs, but I have been
trying
to work out what you meant and having a think about it myself. I must be
honest the idea of attaching something to the bell crank mounting
didn=92t
really appeal to me. So how about this as an option.
It is possible to get in through the clear plastic inspection cover as
you
said, so why not design something along the lines of the Europa
attachment,
but instead of being bent at a right angle to bond into a corner, why
not
have the plate straight (still with holes in it) and bond it directly
onto
the main spar. You could hold it in position whilst the adhesive sets
either
with a piece of wood fed in through the inspection hatch or maybe a
couple
of screws directly into the spar. That way the load would all be taken
directly on the spar and the original Europa eye bolts could still be
used.
What do you think?
Alan
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NevEyre@aol.com
Sent: 12 March 2007 19:23
Subject: Re: Europa-List: RE: Flap motor
Hi Alan,
Yes, the newer flap drive motors are much slower in operation, the
supply of
the original ones dried up when the manufacturer discovered where they
were
ending up..... a few were purchased covertly, but in the end they
sussed......... the only ones that could be found to fit the bill were
the
ones currently available.
So, not a problem with your motor, they are all that way.
Cheers,
Nev.
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List"http://www.matronics.com/
Nav
igator?Europa-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
12/03/2007
08:41
--
12/03/2007
08:41
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Flap motor |
Alan,
Too late now, but the old flap motor can often be resurrected by
cleaning the commutator, which suffers from oil falling in from the
bearing above it.
Or new one from the supplier (made in the US and used on RVs and
Kitfoxes too).
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Burrows
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 3:43 PM
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Flap motor
Just before I shipped the aircraft over to the USA I fitted a new flap
motor as the old one had died. As you would expect (with my luck). E04
had changed the design of the motor and therefore I had to re position
the mountings. Because of the tight timescale for shipping. I never got
a chance to flight test this motor until yesterday (yes I actually went
flying..!). I notice that the new motor seems a lot slower than the
original. The time from zero flap to full flaps is 17 seconds and
retracting back to zero is 18 seconds. Has anyone else noticed this and
is it normal with the later flap motors?
Many Thanks in advance.
Alan
Trigear 914
N134AB
(look out America its now flying..!)
-- Date: 08/03/2007 10:58
--
12/03/2007 08:41
Message 9
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| Subject: | Mod 72 and Airmaster Prop |
Just thought I would report back to the forum having completed mod 72
yesterday on our XS Mono. Thankfully supported by a friend that had already
done another mono and gave invaluable advise and guidance (thanks Russ).
We were able to just remove the air box, loosen the air inlet ducting and
radiators, drop the engine down and forward a couple of inches, and
complete the job without actually disconnecting anything other than the
four engine mount bolts.
Before running the 16.5mm reamer through, we used a 16mm first. The actual
enlarging of the two tubes to take the inserts and fitting them only took
about an hour, however I have to say the cutting inside the mount with the
reamer is not for the faint hearted ! once completed however, the insert is
a good snug fit. I guess from start to finish the hole job took about 5
hours (not including the hour it took to fish the nut out of the gear
mechanism I dropped behind the firewall).
Having now completed the mod we can now go and fly the aircraft with the
new Airmaster prop which is now also signed off. The initial flight test
showed a dramatically reduced take off run and improved climb rate, however
more details once we have done proper testing and got some hours under our
belt.
Best of luck to one and all with the engine mount mod
Tony.
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Another Mod 72 complete |
Fellow Europaphiles,
Another Mod 72 completed. Preparing for the Mod took much longer
than performing it. Pics have been posted on my build web pages (URL
in signature block). The reamer will go off to Ron P. first. Upon
return of the reamer, I will let folks know. I'll have a little kit
consisting of reamer and a can of self-etching primer ready to ship
to the next person ready to perform the mod. I am not including the
ACF-50 as I think that everyone should have a can of their own as it
needs to be re-applied with each annual inspection The kit will go
to the first person to contact me with a shipping address. I expect
that they will let the Forum know when they have completed Mod 72 and
will pass it on.
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(85%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in, Mod 70 done. Baggage bay in. Flaps & Main Gear
complete. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 30 Fuel
System, 32 Tail, 34 Door Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing. Airmaster
arrived 29 Sep 05. Seat arrived from Oregon Aero. E04 interior kit
has arrived and is being installed. Waiting on Mod 72 to resume
installing the ROTAX 914.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
Message 11
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Hi Europa friends!
We have had in the past a lot of discussions on propellers, but I have neve
r
seen a comparisation for propulsive or propeller force and propulsion
efficiency (sorry for my poor english, I'm German).
Obviously the Warp prop (especially with 1,6 m diameter for the Mono) is a
cutt-off prop and the efficiency is not so good like a Woodcomp, M=FChlbauer
,
GT-prop and so on ?!?
I am right? Is that correct?
The max speed of my engine will be 6.000 rpm, max prop speed 2.860 rpm.
What prop would be the best:ground adjusted one and/or alternatively in
flight adjustable one?
Why most of us are using the Warp drive? Because it is an American one or
why?
Or is it the combination from Warp Drive and Airmaster as a common
(standard) solution?
Normally I would like to use a curved propeller blade which will also give
close to the spinner enough air pressure, so that I could keep my cowling
openings so small as possible.
This was another very informative discussion on the forum!
Thanks for some info to make me a little more wise.
Bruno Reith
XS monowheel, smart-brabus 102 HP turbocharched, Warp drive 3-blade ground
adjustable.
Will be ready for the first go in may.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: What is this important piece of Europa build? |
> Whatever it is... I bet SteveD adds it to his ship!
Are you kidding, I've upgraded my kindling hopper to the new coal unit....
Chat Later,
Steved
Do not archive.
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: What is this important piece of Europa build? |
In a message dated 3/12/2007 6:48:59 PM Central Daylight Time,
Post2Forum@comcast.net writes:
Whatever it is... I bet SteveD adds it to his ship!
Are you kidding, I've upgraded my kindling hopper to the new coal unit....
Chat Later,
Steved
Touch=E9!
Sun N Fun this year Steve? I'll be there on the 20th.
Do not archive
Brian Skelly
Europa XS TriGear #A276
North Texas USA
You can see my build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: What is this important piece of Europa build? |
The sticks are 1 x 2s, not 2 x 4s.
It is our original garbage bag from 2003, once in a while when we have
some left over glass or redux or fill, it gets a repair. It was getting a
bit ratty, so when we had plenty of left overs from the rollbar install,
it got a major fixing. The 1 x 2s scraps were laying around and got to
holding glass in place and bag shape (a bit). A key chain LED got put in
the bottom of bag for pic.
Ron P.
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