Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:53 AM - Swiss Rally (Richard Iddon)
2. 09:12 AM - Re: removal of nylon outrigger legs (Raimo Toivio)
3. 09:44 AM - Mod 74 progress part 2 (David.Corbett)
4. 09:57 AM - Re: Europa colours /The facts (Raimo Toivio)
5. 10:08 AM - removal of nylon outrigger legs (Remi Guerner)
6. 10:41 AM - Re: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH (Raimo Toivio)
7. 11:06 AM - Europa windscreen (Mike Gamble)
8. 11:47 AM - Re: Europa windscreen (Steve Pitt)
9. 07:03 PM - Re: Europa windscreen (Fred Klein)
Message 1
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Anyone else from the UK planning to go to the Swiss Rally next weekend?
HYPERLINK
"http://www.experimental.ch/content/view/20/1/"http://www.experimental.c
h/content/view/20/1/
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
09/08/2007 14:44
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: removal of nylon outrigger legs |
14 Hantone Hill
Hi Remi,
I had exactly similar problem and solved it as follows:
I made a vertical cut by Dremel to the back side of the fairing.
After it was possible to stretch it enough to slide in over the fork.
Before painting I sealed the cutting by Sika mass
and added a small alumimium clip by two pop-rivet for extra strenght.
Very easy, fast and straightforward - so far no penalties att all.
If necessary it is also easy to remove now.
Be carefull - fairing material is quite brittle.
Hope this helps, Raimo
Raimo M W Toivio
OH-XRT Europa XS Mono #417, The Experimental of The Year
OH-CVK C172 Skyhawk, totally restored 2006-2007
OH-BLL Beechcraft C45, w radial engines (grounded)
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio@rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Remi
Guerner
Sent: 08 August 2007 17:51
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Europa-List: removal of nylon outrigger legs
Hello all,
I just received my monowheel speed kit. I tried to remove the
outrigger OR3 fork to install the fairings. No way. Then I tried to
remove the nylon leg from OR1. Impossible. May be the nylon has
expanded with aging . Any suggestion ?
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 912S, Airmaster, 510 hours
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Mod 74 progress part 2 |
I have been asked by Anthony van Eldik how I got on with pip pin alignment;
here is the answer.
The new bolts were easy to screw in by hand, using the pip pins to give a
little leverage; having screwed them in to the measurements I had taken, we
offered up the wings. The port wing required half a turn adjustment, the
starboard was correct, so we took the wings out again, and then unscrewed
the bolts, counting the turns - 21 for one, 20.5 for the other. We then
cleaned the threads, both of the new bolts and within the bonded-in plates,
to remove old Loctite. We then screwed the new bolts in for 10 turns,
applied Loctite to the remaining 10 turns still exposed, and screwed in to
the agreed position. We then refitted the wings, and (because I was away the
following day), left the Loctite to set for 36 hours; that was Tuesday.
On Thursday morning I made the flox fillet; I was very concerned that, if I
used the Nyloc nut to position the washer such that it flattened the flox,
it might cause the new bolts to break away from the Loctite, thereby ruining
all the setting up; I therefore obtained 2 nuts without Nyloc heads, and
screwed them, with grease inside, up against the washers - finger tight was
enough to flatten the washer.
On Thursday evening we re-fitted the wings, fitted the Nyloc nuts, and
tightened them up with a standard ratchet; we then removed the wings again
ready for the lay-ups.
That all sounds simple; however, we had very great difficulty last night
getting the port pip pin in - it is definitely now a 2 man job, because the
wing needs to be tweaked forward (as the Mod instructions said might
happen), and quite a bit of pressure applied to the pin itself, both to get
it in and to get it out again. Before starting this, and in anticipation of
a possible problem, I got the pip pin rings welded so that they would not
just pull open under strong pressure. The starboard pip pin now goes in more
easily than before - and it was never difficult (neither of them were).
Today I have inserted the foam plugs, and laid up the 5 layers of BID, as
instructed - and the job is signed off by my Inspector, although all the
filling is still to be started - and as there was well over 2 mm filler
ground away over the root of the wing, filling and sanding down will have to
be done in 2 or 3 stages.
On Tuesday, whilst getting the bolts correctly set up, we did damage the
head of one pip pin (where the ring goes through), and John Wheeler at the
factory tells me that they have no spare pip pins in stock - so be careful!
In summary, I asses that because of the need to let 4 stages cure before
moving on to the next step (before getting to the filling and finishing),
Mod 74 cannot realistically be done in less than a week - and I have the
hangar space and all the tools and materials, and have been able to work on
a pair of wings at the same time. You need two people for the wings in and
wings out operations, but otherwise it is a one man job - 2 together will
not speed it up.
Any questions??!!
David
G-BZAM
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Europa colours /The facts |
Guten Tag, Bruno
und danke sehr sch=F6n!
OE-CMW looks great and I am sure
it is going to do so decades. Of course!
By the way very intelligent painting scheme...
I have no ground loops and still flying.
In fact I had a rare opportunity
to fly together with Sir Rolph Muller, English gentleman.
It was last Monday and he will later
write a report of my OH-XRT=B4s characteristics.
My intend is to end upp w my test flight sessions during
August-September.
I wish you luck with your roll outs.
Do enjoy every moments - they will not come back.
Regards, Raimo
========
Raimo M W Toivio
OH-XRT Europa XS Mono #417, The Experimental of The Year, about 20 hrs &
100 landings.
OH-CVK C172 Skyhawk, totally restored 2006-2007
OH-BLL Beechcraft C45, w radial engines (grounded)
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio@rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
----- Original Message -----
From: UVTReith@aol.com
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa colours /The facts
Hallo Raimo, Hallo Europa Family,
first of all congratulations to your baby and your first flights,
Reimo.
Once you made a remark during rolling exercise. - " Oh, she is also
flying ! "
Have you made a turn around or have you stopped flying?
Somebody told me once:
" When the bird is off the ground during your rolling exercises
continue with flying. By sudden reduce of the power, the plane can drop
down due to the lost of the prop wash effect."
An answer from some experts will be very welcome, as I will start in
two or three weeks time with my roll outs.
But now to the topic of this eMail: Europa Colours / The Fact
Attached is a picture of an Austrian Europa Classic Tri-Gear.
I guess the Monowheel was changed to a tri-Gear recently, as this is
kit 173.
The full approval was given in 2000.
As you can see, this bird looks still very nice.
Best Regards,
Bruno Reith / UVT Reith
europa-aircraft-germany
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Message 5
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| Subject: | removal of nylon outrigger legs |
Thanks to those who have provide advice. I finally managed to remove
those outrigger forks without damaging anything. Using a powerful hair
dryier, I heated the forks, trying to twist them at the same time with a
lever. After a few hours of cooling at room temperature, they finally
came out with a heavy twist and pull.
Remi
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH |
Dear Ferg
here is my solution.
I divided the electrical consumption in two as follows:
1) starter, trimming devices, stall warning, gear warning,
door warnings, clock, Dynon back-upp charger, burglary-alarm etc.
This is handled by full mechanic main-swithch
which is installed over the glove shelf (it does not
prevent removing the panel, it is light weight, cheap
and solid and it is operated w/o el pwr).
The switch is about similar somebody has installed
to the co-pilots head rest in the case his accu is in the back.
Price was about 15 euros.
2) all the rest is handled by small automotive type relay
http://www.biztee.com/Products/2649.html
using about 30 mA. It handles 40A which is enough for me.
I use it by "master switch" in my panels left side.
Price was about 5 euros.
- normally # 1 is always open and # 2 is closed
(trim CB must open also separately!).
- when flying both are closed (ON) of course.
- in the case of emergency landing I open # 2 and
leave # 1 closed - so I am still able to start, use trim
and have all the warnings I am used to (and clock is in time!)
- during long (more than two weeks) staying period I open (OFF) both
This was simple, cheap, lightweight, prctical and safe solution for my purposes.
Wishes, Raimo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 5:43 PM
Subject: Europa-List: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH
>
> Cheers,
> I'm still searching for that elusive device - in an attempt to avoid
> the cost of an ampere or two of contactor current - which will control a
> primary battery source and another for secondary battery source.
> I have found several which meet one criterion or another, but not
> all:
> [a] should carry as much current as a contactor for that job;
> [b] needs to be an up-down rather than rotary type switch;
> [c] should be on a remote(able) stalk so I can undo the connection to
> remove the instrument panel ;
> [d] cost less than the usual contactor - or at least be competitive.
> I have devised a system to isolate the controls from wandering
> fingers so am not fussy about security. I'm not sure what a "Kill switch" is
> really.
> Any help would be most appreciated.
> Ferg
> Classic 914 CS prop mono
> PS: My server is down for the last 2 days, so my thanks will be
> delayed.........
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Europa windscreen |
Yesterday I unpacked my tinted windscreen for the first time since
receipt from the company 7 years ago. I then spent hours grinding it to
shape and size before trial clamping it into position - then I looked
through it at the sunny view outside. Virtually the whole screen
distorts the view to a greater or lesser extent.
I would just like to know whether this is par for the course or have I
got the Monday morning product from the factory. How have others fared?
I would be interested to know what other screens are like.
One more job on hold.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Gamble
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Europa windscreen |
I believe that there have been issues with the screens before, Mike, but
I do not know what people have done about it. Mine are not optically
perfect - have a word with Ian Rickard before speaking to the factory.
Steve Pitt
G-SMDH
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Europa windscreen |
Mike,
I had procrastinated on specifying color for my windscreen and side
windows and was left out in the cold when the company went belly up so
I intend to order direct from LP Aero which (I believe) supplied most
if not all of the glazing for the US-delivered Europas. If you decide
on a replacement, you might consider a new material which LPA is
offering as an upgrade which I believe has improved UV screening; LPA
was talking it up at their booth at Sun N Fun.
Fred
A194
On Friday, August 10, 2007, at 11:02 AM, Mike Gamble wrote:
> I looked through it (the windscreen) at the sunny view outside.
> Virtually the whole screen distorts the view to a greater or lesser
> extent.
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