Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:46 AM - Re: Mod 74 progress part 2 (Duncan & Ami McFadyean)
2. 06:56 AM - Re: Europa-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 08/10/07 (Fergus Kyle)
3. 10:24 AM - Mod 74 - progress report 2(A) (David.Corbett)
4. 02:09 PM - Re: removal of nylon outrigger legs (jim Brown)
5. 11:52 PM - Switzerland, EAS Fly-In August, 17. - 19. (Remi Guerner)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Mod 74 progress part 2 |
<<Any questions??!!>>
How tight did you tighten the nut, given that the instructions don't
call for it to be tightened?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: David.Corbett
To: Europa Forum
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 5:43 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 74 progress part 2
I have been asked by Anthony van Eldik how I got on with pip pin
alignment; here is the answer.
The new bolts were easy to screw in by hand, using the pip pins to
give a little leverage; having screwed them in to the measurements I had
taken, we offered up the wings. The port wing required half a turn
adjustment, the starboard was correct, so we took the wings out again,
and then unscrewed the bolts, counting the turns - 21 for one, 20.5 for
the other. We then cleaned the threads, both of the new bolts and within
the bonded-in plates, to remove old Loctite. We then screwed the new
bolts in for 10 turns, applied Loctite to the remaining 10 turns still
exposed, and screwed in to the agreed position. We then refitted the
wings, and (because I was away the following day), left the Loctite to
set for 36 hours; that was Tuesday.
On Thursday morning I made the flox fillet; I was very concerned that,
if I used the Nyloc nut to position the washer such that it flattened
the flox, it might cause the new bolts to break away from the Loctite,
thereby ruining all the setting up; I therefore obtained 2 nuts without
Nyloc heads, and screwed them, with grease inside, up against the
washers - finger tight was enough to flatten the washer.
On Thursday evening we re-fitted the wings, fitted the Nyloc nuts, and
tightened them up with a standard ratchet; we then removed the wings
again ready for the lay-ups.
That all sounds simple; however, we had very great difficulty last
night getting the port pip pin in - it is definitely now a 2 man job,
because the wing needs to be tweaked forward (as the Mod instructions
said might happen), and quite a bit of pressure applied to the pin
itself, both to get it in and to get it out again. Before starting this,
and in anticipation of a possible problem, I got the pip pin rings
welded so that they would not just pull open under strong pressure. The
starboard pip pin now goes in more easily than before - and it was never
difficult (neither of them were).
Today I have inserted the foam plugs, and laid up the 5 layers of BID,
as instructed - and the job is signed off by my Inspector, although all
the filling is still to be started - and as there was well over 2 mm
filler ground away over the root of the wing, filling and sanding down
will have to be done in 2 or 3 stages.
On Tuesday, whilst getting the bolts correctly set up, we did damage
the head of one pip pin (where the ring goes through), and John Wheeler
at the factory tells me that they have no spare pip pins in stock - so
be careful!
In summary, I asses that because of the need to let 4 stages cure
before moving on to the next step (before getting to the filling and
finishing), Mod 74 cannot realistically be done in less than a week -
and I have the hangar space and all the tools and materials, and have
been able to work on a pair of wings at the same time. You need two
people for the wings in and wings out operations, but otherwise it is a
one man job - 2 together will not speed it up.
Any questions??!!
David
G-BZAM
Message 2
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Subject: | RE: Europa-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 08/10/07 |
Raimo,
''Time: 10:41:45 AM PST US
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH
Dear Ferg here is my solution.
I divided the electrical consumption in two as follows:
1) starter, trimming devices, stall warning, gear warning,
door warnings, clock, Dynon back-upp charger, burglary-alarm etc.
This is handled by full mechanic main-swithch
which is installed over the glove shelf (it does not
prevent removing the panel, it is light weight, cheap
and solid and it is operated w/o el pwr).
The switch is about similar somebody has installed
to the co-pilots head rest in the case his accu is in the back.
Price was about 15 euros.
I`m interested to know where you got the mechanical switch and
what amperes it will switch..
2) all the rest is handled by small automotive type relay
http://www.biztee.com/Products/2649.html
using about 30 mA. It handles 40A which is enough for me.
I use it by "master switch" in my panels left side.
Price was about 5 euros.
That sounds ideal, too. thanks for the address
- normally # 1 is always open and # 2 is closed
(trim CB must open also separately!).
- when flying both are closed (ON) of course.
- in the case of emergency landing I open # 2 and
leave # 1 closed - so I am still able to start, use trim
and have all the warnings I am used to (and clock is in time!)
- during long (more than two weeks) staying period I open (OFF) both
This was simple, cheap, lightweight, prctical and safe solution for my
purposes.
Wishes, Raimo
I`m keen to add about 15 amps for Amateur radio equipment, so
the 40A looks good as well. Perhaps I can find something like that
here. I have to keep some current for 2 fuel pumps for the 914 which
complicates it a bit. I am installing a MiniMac computor to run my
software for Nav and position reporting. The position reports are
routed to my home computor so I have a flight log waiting when I come
home, plus wherever it stops enroute is where Search & Rescue look
for my crash....
Cheers again!
Ferg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 5:43 PM
Subject: Europa-List: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH
> Cheers,
> I'm still searching for that elusive device - in an attempt to avoid
> the cost of an ampere or two of contactor current - which will control a
> primary battery source and another for secondary battery source.
> I have found several which meet one criterion or another, but not
> all:
> [a] should carry as much current as a contactor for that job;
> [b] needs to be an up-down rather than rotary type switch;
> [c] should be on a remote(able) stalk so I can undo the connection to
> remove the instrument panel ;
> [d] cost less than the usual contactor - or at least be competitive.
> I have devised a system to isolate the controls from wandering
> fingers so am not fussy about security. I'm not sure what a "Kill switch"
is
> really.
> Any help would be most appreciated.
> Ferg
> Classic 914 CS prop mono
> PS: My server is down for the last 2 days, so my thanks will be
> delayed.........
Message 3
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Subject: | Mod 74 - progress report 2(A) |
24 hours ago I wrote that the factory had told me, earlier in the week, that
they were out of stock of new (wing) pip pins.
In this morning's post, 2 new pip pins arrived - many thanks to you both,
Roger and John.
They are of a much improved design to those that were issued with my wing
kit some 10/11 years ago.
David
G-BZAM
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: removal of nylon outrigger legs |
Niels
Try puting 25 or 30 psi in the tire.
The original tire supplied with my kit was also the old 800 x 6. I
operate off a paved runway and the tires rubbed the sides of the gear
legs on landing. The higher pressure gave me a little extra clearance
between the gear leg and the tire. I replaced that tire with a 700 x6
6ply rating. It makes the a/c ground handling much better.
Jim Brown
N398JB
----- Original Message -----
From: Niels Kock
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: removal of nylon outrigger legs
Remi.
I encountered the same problem in a similar situation. Your intellect
will not serve you well
here, you have to resort to brute force:
Put a bolt fitting the axle holes of the fork through the 2 holes. The
bolt must be long enough to extend
at least 3-4 centimeters either side of the wheel fork.
Then strike the bolt with many small strikes parallel to the leg, on
alternate sides of the fork,
and you will see the fork moving gradually off the leg. At least I
did.
Now, I have a problem:
I've just put on a new mono-tyre, McReady Air-trac 8.00 x 6. pumped
to 15 psi.
It turns out that the tyre is in contact with the sides of the wheel
leg, emitting sgueals during taxy like a couple
of fighting piglets.
It is not only the pensive looks from stewardesses and other
impression-worthy groups connected to
aviation that bothers me, when I pass them by, squealing insanely, it
is also the palpable temperature of the
sides of the tyre after taxying to the hangar.
Imagine the loss of face and money, if the squealing progress comes to
an abrupt halt with an almighty
thunderclap from a burst inner tube in front of an awe-struck crowd!
Apart from parting with another 100 =A3 buying a 7.00 x 6 tyre, is
there any possibility of splaying the UC-leg
about one mm each side? I already have untightened the central bolt
through the hub a couple of threads.
To no avail.
Any suggestions?
Niels Kock
OY-ODA
Mono Classic
----- Original Message -----
From: Remi Guerner
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 6:51 PM
Subject: Europa-List: removal of nylon outrigger legs
Hello all,
I just received my monowheel speed kit. I tried to remove the
outrigger OR3 fork to install the fairings. No way. Then I tried to
remove the nylon leg from OR1. Impossible. May be the nylon has
expanded with aging . Any suggestion ?
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 912S, Airmaster, 510 hours
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Message 5
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Subject: | Switzerland, EAS Fly-In August, 17. - 19. |
Karel, Gert,
I am planning to come on Saturday, weather permitting. Do you know if
camping is allowed on the airfield?
Remi
F-PGKL
Saturday I will be there with my grandson Lei. I stay until sunday after
the
lunch to fly back to EBLE Belgium. If weather permitting...
Hope to see you there in the crouds.
Karel Vranken, # 447 F-PKRL
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