Europa-List Digest Archive

Tue 09/11/07


Total Messages Posted: 24



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:35 AM - Re: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite (David Joyce)
     2. 02:40 AM - Re: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite (Nigel Graham)
     3. 03:22 AM - Re: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite (Peter Jeffers)
     4. 05:13 AM - Re: Tank leaks (Kingsley Hurst)
     5. 05:58 AM - Re: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite (Paul McAllister)
     6. 06:31 AM - Post cure (William Daniell)
     7. 07:05 AM - Re: Post cure (josok)
     8. 07:25 AM - StructuraL failure or? (josok)
     9. 08:15 AM - Re: StructuraL failure or? (glenn crowder)
    10. 08:40 AM - Re: Post cure (Rob Housman)
    11. 09:01 AM - Re: StructuraL failure or? (josok)
    12. 09:33 AM - Re: Post cure (JEFF ROBERTS)
    13. 10:06 AM - Re: Post cure (David Joyce)
    14. 10:10 AM - Re: Post cure (Al Stills)
    15. 10:22 AM - Re: Post cure (William Daniell)
    16. 10:32 AM - Re: StructuraL failure or? (glenn crowder)
    17. 11:12 AM - Re: StructuraL failure or? (josok)
    18. 01:53 PM - Re: Mod 74. (Duncan & Ami McFadyean)
    19. 02:11 PM - Re: StructuraL failure or? (Carl Pattinson)
    20. 03:17 PM - Re: StructuraL failure or? (josok)
    21. 03:17 PM - Tail Wheel Bearings (Erich Trombley)
    22. 03:36 PM - Re: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite (R.C.Harrison)
    23. 04:01 PM - Re: Tank leaks (Kingsley Hurst)
    24. 05:00 PM - Re: Tail Wheel Bearings (Kingsley Hurst)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:35:46 AM PST US
    From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
    Subject: Re: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite
    Bob, The plane relies on an awful lot of 'glue' to stick the bits of glass together! Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk> Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 10:39 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite > > Steve, > IMHO I can not imaging how anyone could force you to use such a mickey > mouse fix as glue? And what's more I can not imagine the PFA giving its > blessing ? At what loading does it separate? What repeatability of > performance can be shown ? How can degreasing be guaranteed? Unless it > is used for destructive testing! Better use Jubilee clips ...at least > that is a known quantity factor! The PFA wouldn't clear that either ! > Regards > Bob Harrison. > PS Sorry but I can not contain my opinion any longer! > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve v > Sent: 10 September 2007 21:58 > To: europa-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite > > > Hi, Do you Know if we will be forced to Loctite the torquetube together? > > I for one do not want to willingly use loctite, i would prefer to use > Bobs clamps as > removal would be far easier. > > steve vestuti G-CEBV #573 > > > Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 02:40:59 AM PST US
    From: "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham@btclick.com>
    Subject: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite
    Bob, If I may make the case for the defence ......... Once upon a time in a life far, far away ......I worked for a company developing and manufacturing anaerobic adhesives. (No ...it wasn't Loctite) Part of my job entailed setting up an running the lab tests to quantify the shear and peel strengths of the various formulations under differing assembly (best case, worst case and typical) cleanliness conditions. Even though I knew how the adhesive worked, it never ceased to amaze me how strong this stuff was. Some test pieces (typically a "ring and pin" for shear testing) would fail before the adhesive. One can use many adjectives to describe these adhesives, but "Mickey Mouse" would be THE most inappropriate. I CAN imagine the PFA sanctioning their use. Anaerobic adhesives (Loctite is just one) are a near-perfect engineering solution to our very real engineering problem. They tick all the boxes. They are low cost, simple to administer, lightweight, strong, chemically resistant and (with the use of suitably masked heat) easy to dis-assemble. Most importantly for us, there is no requirement for the entire surface area of the two mating components be completely covered or even completely de-greased. The surface area of the TP4 is so great, that an anaerobic will work even if the adhesive does not wick over the entire surface. Remember that this is being used in addition to (not in place of) the standard drive pins. The adhesive's only function is to prevent relative movement - the pins still take the load. Regards Nigel (the other one) Graham -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of R.C.Harrison Sent: 10 September 2007 22:40 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite Steve, IMHO I can not imaging how anyone could force you to use such a mickey mouse fix as glue? And what's more I can not imagine the PFA giving its blessing ? At what loading does it separate? What repeatability of performance can be shown ? How can degreasing be guaranteed? Unless it is used for destructive testing! Better use Jubilee clips ...at least that is a known quantity factor! The PFA wouldn't clear that either ! Regards Bob Harrison. PS Sorry but I can not contain my opinion any longer! -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve v Sent: 10 September 2007 21:58 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite Hi, Do you Know if we will be forced to Loctite the torquetube together? I for one do not want to willingly use loctite, i would prefer to use Bobs clamps as removal would be far easier. steve vestuti G-CEBV #573 Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 3


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    Time: 03:22:36 AM PST US
    From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers@talktalk.net>
    Subject: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite
    Nigel, Many thanks you for your breath of fresh air on this subject. I have used loctite in these areas for some time and it is now nice to hear of its efficacy from someone who actually knows what he is talking about. Pete Jeffers -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nigel Graham Sent: 11 September 2007 10:38 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite Bob, If I may make the case for the defence ......... Once upon a time in a life far, far away ......I worked for a company developing and manufacturing anaerobic adhesives. (No ...it wasn't Loctite) Part of my job entailed setting up an running the lab tests to quantify the shear and peel strengths of the various formulations under differing assembly (best case, worst case and typical) cleanliness conditions. Even though I knew how the adhesive worked, it never ceased to amaze me how strong this stuff was. Some test pieces (typically a "ring and pin" for shear testing) would fail before the adhesive. One can use many adjectives to describe these adhesives, but "Mickey Mouse" would be THE most inappropriate. I CAN imagine the PFA sanctioning their use. Anaerobic adhesives (Loctite is just one) are a near-perfect engineering solution to our very real engineering problem. They tick all the boxes. They are low cost, simple to administer, lightweight, strong, chemically resistant and (with the use of suitably masked heat) easy to dis-assemble. Most importantly for us, there is no requirement for the entire surface area of the two mating components be completely covered or even completely de-greased. The surface area of the TP4 is so great, that an anaerobic will work even if the adhesive does not wick over the entire surface. Remember that this is being used in addition to (not in place of) the standard drive pins. The adhesive's only function is to prevent relative movement - the pins still take the load. Regards Nigel (the other one) Graham -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of R.C.Harrison Sent: 10 September 2007 22:40 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite Steve, IMHO I can not imaging how anyone could force you to use such a mickey mouse fix as glue? And what's more I can not imagine the PFA giving its blessing ? At what loading does it separate? What repeatability of performance can be shown ? How can degreasing be guaranteed? Unless it is used for destructive testing! Better use Jubilee clips ...at least that is a known quantity factor! The PFA wouldn't clear that either ! Regards Bob Harrison. PS Sorry but I can not contain my opinion any longer! -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve v Sent: 10 September 2007 21:58 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite Hi, Do you Know if we will be forced to Loctite the torquetube together? I for one do not want to willingly use loctite, i would prefer to use Bobs clamps as removal would be far easier. steve vestuti G-CEBV #573 Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org 17:43 17:43


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:13:07 AM PST US
    From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@redzone.com.au>
    Subject: Re: Tank leaks
    MessageGidday Bob, You said :- > Your use of the words support "straps" concerns me... Please don't be concerned mate, mine are done as per the manual and without checking the manual, I guess they are more correctly called brackets. It's that English language you blokes introduced to this country that is the problem ! ! ! I'm interested to know if those that have cracked or leaked are also bonded firmly to the . . . . . . (brackets !!) ??? Cheers Kingsley


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:58:39 AM PST US
    From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
    Subject: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite
    Nigel, Thanks for the sharing your real world experience on this topic. I have used the Lotite 6xx series over a number of years and I never cease to be amazed what this product can do. Paul


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:31:00 AM PST US
    From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co>
    Subject: Post cure
    As I understand it the blue foam bits need post cure. I believe this is 40C for a period of 24 hours. Can this be done at a lower heat for longer time to get the same results? Will 17:43


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:05:34 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Post cure
    From: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
    Hi Daniel, No, it is not the blue foam, it's the epoxy that needs post curing. So also cure the wings, fuse ect. For the second part of the question, not entirely sure, please correct me if i am wrong, but if you cure at say 40 degrees, and the plane ever gets warmer, it will continue to cure with bad results for your beautiful finish... Regards, Jos Okhuijsen Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:25:30 AM PST US
    Subject: StructuraL failure or?
    From: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
    Hi All, As far as i know there is still no conclusion from the AAIB about the cause of this one and only structural failure. It keeps buzzing in my mind. It is a fact that there should be no slop in tail planes, that the bushes should be secure, and that wing pins should be properly attached. Period. But was it the cause off the accident? Speed 90 knots, no abnormal movements, then suddenly very steep up and down movements, paper flying from the cabin. All according the AAIB report. I received the following suggestion, which i think has not been communicated before: The plane was rigged by three persons. What if one of the anti-trim tab drive pins was not in but on the T-rod? Everything would look pretty much OK, feel pretty much OK, until the pin would pass the T-rod, on which the anti tab would become a pro-tab. This would cause a violent movement, on which the pilots correction would cause another and so on, until destruction. It would explain the described up and down movements eh? Start shooting please! Regards, Jos Okhuijsen Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:15:16 AM PST US
    From: glenn crowder <gcrowder2@hotmail.com>
    Subject: StructuraL failure or?
    Also I've noticed that the T rod can be unthreaded by turning it over and over enough times to completely separate it from the drive mechanism if the nut is not tight. What if this happened slowly over a period of years and finally cam e loose on that particular flight? The trim position would be affected, but over time it might not be notice d. Glenn > Subject: Europa-Li st: StructuraL failure or?> From: josok-e@ukolo.fi> Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 17:23:02 +0300> To: europa-list@matronics.com> > --> Europa-List message po sted by: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>> > Hi All,> As far as i know there is s till no conclusion from the AAIB about the cause of this one and only struc tural failure. It keeps buzzing in my mind. It is a fact that there should be no slop in tail planes, that the bushes should be secure, and that wing pins should be properly attached. Period.> But was it the cause off the acc ident? Speed 90 knots, no abnormal movements, then suddenly very steep up a nd down movements, paper flying from the cabin. All according the AAIB repo rt. > I received the following suggestion, which i think has not been commu nicated before: The plane was rigged by three persons. What if one of the a nti-trim tab drive pins was not in but on the T-rod? Everything would look pretty much OK, feel pretty much OK, until the pin would pass the T-rod, on which the anti tab would become a pro-tab. This would cause a violent move ment, on which the pilots correction would cause another and so on, until d estruction. It would explain the described up and down movements eh? Start shooting please!> > Regards,> > Jos Okhuijsen> > > > > > > Visit - www.Euro ====================> > > _________________________________________________________________ Capture your memories in an online journal! http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:40:02 AM PST US
    From: "Rob Housman" <rob@hyperion-ef.com>
    Subject: Post cure
    Short answer: NO. I have no specific information about the Aeropoxy material (there is nothing about this on the Aeropoxy web site) but in general for epoxies (and other thermosetting polymers)the cure temperature affects the glass transition temperature, T sub g. While the polymerization reaction generally behaves in the expected fashion, i. e., longer soak at lower temperature being somewhat equivalent to a shorter soak at a higher temperature, the critical factor here is to have the cure temperature high enough to cure the epoxy to a high T sub g. The glass transition temperature is actually not a specific temperature (the melting point of ice for example) but rather a range of temperature through which the material transitions from being hard and glassy to being soft and rubbery. The higher the cure temperature the higher the glass transition temperature, and that translates directly to a stronger airframe when ambient temperature is high. Jos Okhuijsen is correct on both points - cure all parts with builder applied epoxy and cure at a temperature higher than you expect to encounter. Best regards, Rob Housman Irvine, California Europa XS Tri-Gear S/N A070 Airframe complete -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Daniell Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:25 AM Subject: Europa-List: Post cure As I understand it the blue foam bits need post cure. I believe this is 40C for a period of 24 hours. Can this be done at a lower heat for longer time to get the same results? Will 17:43


    Message 11


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    Time: 09:01:24 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: StructuraL failure or?
    From: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
    Hi Glenn No, the T bar can not turn, because there should be a lock nut on the thread. But it's perfectly possible to rig a trim tab wrong, at least on one side. It's not obvious on quick visual inspection. Only moving the tabs by hand one at a time does make sure that they are engaged properly. Regards, Jos Okhuijsen Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 12


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    Time: 09:33:10 AM PST US
    From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
    Subject: Re: Post cure
    Will, I placed all my parts in my garage attic where the temps we're hovering around 140 to 150F. Couldn't get the wings up there so I laid them on a padded surface in my driveway in the direct sun after I applied the PPG high build primer. It was dark gray and the temps we're higher than they would have been after the white final coat so I figured they would get all the cure they need. After the all day sun I blocked sanded them down again before final prime and paint. This was my second summer on them and they're still looking good. I did the same thing for the fuselage. Hope this helps. Jeff R. A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 86 hours flying and climbing slowly. PS. Anyone out there in USA know of a good hypnotist that could convince my wife's subconscious mind she loves to fly? ;o) On Sep 11, 2007, at 10:39 AM, Rob Housman wrote: > > Short answer: NO. > > I have no specific information about the Aeropoxy material (there is > nothing > about this on the Aeropoxy web site) but in general for epoxies (and > other > thermosetting polymers)the cure temperature affects the glass > transition > temperature, T sub g. While the polymerization reaction generally > behaves > in the expected fashion, i. e., longer soak at lower temperature being > somewhat equivalent to a shorter soak at a higher temperature, the > critical > factor here is to have the cure temperature high enough to cure the > epoxy to > a high T sub g. > > The glass transition temperature is actually not a specific > temperature (the > melting point of ice for example) but rather a range of temperature > through > which the material transitions from being hard and glassy to being > soft and > rubbery. The higher the cure temperature the higher the glass > transition > temperature, and that translates directly to a stronger airframe when > ambient temperature is high. > > Jos Okhuijsen is correct on both points - cure all parts with builder > applied epoxy and cure at a temperature higher than you expect to > encounter. > > > Best regards, > > Rob Housman > Irvine, California > Europa XS Tri-Gear > S/N A070 > Airframe complete > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William > Daniell > Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:25 AM > To: europa-list@matronics.com > Subject: Europa-List: Post cure > > <wdaniell@etb.net.co> > > As I understand it the blue foam bits need post cure. > > I believe this is 40C for a period of 24 hours. > > Can this be done at a lower heat for longer time to get the same > results? > > Will > > 17:43 > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 10:06:22 AM PST US
    From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
    Subject: Re: Post cure
    William, The data sheet for Ampreg 20 (the resin supplied by Europa throughout my build) with standard hardener gives the following for differing post cure regimes: Post Cure Flexural strength Tensile Strength. Glass transition Temp Regime (MPa) 5hrs @ 80 C. 159 80 78 C. 16hrs @ 50 C. 167 85 71 C. 4wks @ RT 126 71 51 C. Clearly it's well worth while doing a 50 C. post cure, where the bits need only simple support, as opposed to 80 C where without complex support there is a risk of them ending up looking like a Salvador Dali painting! I did mine by making an enclosure from polystyrene sheets and heated by a hair dryer, with thermometer stuck thru the polystyrene. Other resin systems I have worked with, have much less benefit from post cure regimes and if you are not using Ampreg it would be worth looking at the specific data sheet. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 2:25 PM Subject: Europa-List: Post cure > > As I understand it the blue foam bits need post cure. > > I believe this is 40C for a period of 24 hours. > > Can this be done at a lower heat for longer time to get the same results? > > Will > > 17:43 > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 10:10:16 AM PST US
    From: "Al Stills" <astills@cox.net>
    Subject: Post cure
    Jeff & Will, While I was building mine I did basically the same but placed the wings in a black plastic bag and let set in the sun all day. the temps were in the 110 Deg F and have had no problems. However, I did the same with the flying surfaces and did have a problem on the ailerons. I had to pull them back off, straighten them out and then re-cure them in an oven to 175 Deg F for a few hours. Have had no more problems with them since then. It's amazing how hot these things get in the sunlight on a hot day. I consulted with a "expert" on the cure temps and he basically said to cure them at least 20 deg F over the hottest temps you expect the surface to get to. While I was flying the Diamond Katana, the sensor that is in the cockpit and has leads to the outside surfaces was a no fly set off at 150 deg's f. Al Stills N625AZ


    Message 15


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    Time: 10:22:31 AM PST US
    From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell@etb.net.co>
    Subject: Post cure
    Thanks to all Will -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Housman Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 10:40 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Post cure Short answer: NO. I have no specific information about the Aeropoxy material (there is nothing about this on the Aeropoxy web site) but in general for epoxies (and other thermosetting polymers)the cure temperature affects the glass transition temperature, T sub g. While the polymerization reaction generally behaves in the expected fashion, i. e., longer soak at lower temperature being somewhat equivalent to a shorter soak at a higher temperature, the critical factor here is to have the cure temperature high enough to cure the epoxy to a high T sub g. The glass transition temperature is actually not a specific temperature (the melting point of ice for example) but rather a range of temperature through which the material transitions from being hard and glassy to being soft and rubbery. The higher the cure temperature the higher the glass transition temperature, and that translates directly to a stronger airframe when ambient temperature is high. Jos Okhuijsen is correct on both points - cure all parts with builder applied epoxy and cure at a temperature higher than you expect to encounter. Best regards, Rob Housman Irvine, California Europa XS Tri-Gear S/N A070 Airframe complete -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Daniell Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:25 AM Subject: Europa-List: Post cure As I understand it the blue foam bits need post cure. I believe this is 40C for a period of 24 hours. Can this be done at a lower heat for longer time to get the same results? Will 17:43 17:43 17:43


    Message 16


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    Time: 10:32:19 AM PST US
    From: glenn crowder <gcrowder2@hotmail.com>
    Subject: StructuraL failure or?
    Hi Josok - well mine turns and it's probably not the only one! Glenn> Subject: Re: Europa-List : StructuraL failure or?> From: josok-e@ukolo.fi> Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 18 :59:35 +0300> To: europa-list@matronics.com> > --> Europa-List message post ed by: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>> > Hi Glenn > No, the T bar can not turn, because there should be a lock nut on the thread. But it's perfectly possi ble to rig a trim tab wrong, at least on one side. It's not obvious on quic k visual inspection. Only moving the tabs by hand one at a time does make s ure that they are engaged properly. > > Regards,> > Jos Okhuijsen> > > > > => > > _________________________________________________________________ Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger Caf =E9. http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_SeptWLtagline


    Message 17


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    Time: 11:12:36 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: StructuraL failure or?
    From: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
    Hi Glenn, Good that you noticed, now please check the Manual, chapter 19 page 6, and find the lock nut that you forgot. Better late and in time then another addition to the statistics. Regards, Jos Okhguijsen Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 18


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    Time: 01:53:28 PM PST US
    From: "Duncan & Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: Mod 74.
    Yes, thanks. Rgds., Duncan do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Laptop JR" <jrgowing@bigpond.net.au> Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 10:39 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 74. > > Duncan > Has someone given you this info yet? > JR (bob) Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz > > do not archive > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Duncan & Ami McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> > To: <europa-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 6:44 AM > Subject: Europa-List: Mod 74. > > >> <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> >> >> Would some kind soul please measure for me the distance between the >> inboard face of W26 articulating lift pin socket and the centreline of >> the rotating barrel in W26. Then the distance from the barrel centreline >> to the outboard extremity of the W26. >> >> The longer lift pins supplied with Mod 74 don't work with the earlier >> non-articulating W26's, unless the wing root is counterbored, which would >> weaken the very area that started all this modification in the first >> place. >> >> I'm trying to work out whether the supplied longer lift pins (which have >> the pip pin hole drilled c.1/10" further inboard) would work directly >> with the later articualting W26, as a bolt-compatable swap without having >> to reset the fuselage sides. >> >> Duncan McF. >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 19


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    Time: 02:11:29 PM PST US
    From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: StructuraL failure or?
    Please be assured you would know if you attempted a takeoff with the T bar disconnected - I have done it !!!! On commencing the takeoff run the stick was VERY back heavy such that when I started to ease the stick forwards I assumed the controls were jammed and aborted the takeoff. Gravity makes the trim tabs hang down forcing the trailing edge of the tailplanes upwards. As this is the normal position for takeoff (stick hard back till airspeed is reached), the problem dosent become obvious till the pilot tries to move the stick forward in order to raise the tailplane. Believe me it isnt something you could miss. If only one of the pins was engaged this would disengage fairly rapidly. Even if this didnt occurr there would still be a substantial force acting on the disengaged tailplane which would be hard to miss. It is unlikely that this could be trimmed out using the trim servo. Carl Pattinson G-LABS ----- Original Message ----- From: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 3:23 PM Subject: Europa-List: StructuraL failure or? > > Hi All, > As far as i know there is still no conclusion from the AAIB about the > cause of this one and only structural failure. It keeps buzzing in my > mind. It is a fact that there should be no slop in tail planes, that the > bushes should be secure, and that wing pins should be properly attached. > Period. > But was it the cause off the accident? Speed 90 knots, no abnormal > movements, then suddenly very steep up and down movements, paper flying > from the cabin. All according the AAIB report. > I received the following suggestion, which i think has not been > communicated before: The plane was rigged by three persons. What if one of > the anti-trim tab drive pins was not in but on the T-rod? Everything would > look pretty much OK, feel pretty much OK, until the pin would pass the > T-rod, on which the anti tab would become a pro-tab. This would cause a > violent movement, on which the pilots correction would cause another and > so on, until destruction. It would explain the described up and down > movements eh? Start shooting please! > > Regards, > > Jos Okhuijsen > > > Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org > > >


    Message 20


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    Time: 03:17:49 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: StructuraL failure or?
    From: "josok" <josok-e@ukolo.fi>
    Hi Carl Thanks for your observations. My question was, what happens if one pin was engaged, and the other one rests on top of the T bar. It is possible to (mis)rig that way. The other pin will hold, because like many, i have a board with a slot just to keep the bar centered. Would it go unnoticed until the loose pin would pass the bar? Would it tear the plane apart because of the reverse reactions it would cause? Regards, Jos Okhuijsen Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 21


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    Time: 03:17:49 PM PST US
    From: "Erich Trombley" <erichdtrombley@juno.com>
    Subject: Tail Wheel Bearings
    Paul, I replaced the original tail wheel bearings with sealed ball bearings fr om a local parts house. If I recall the O.D was a perfect match, howeve r, a spacer was required for the I.D. The sealed bearings are much quie ter than the original and do not require maintenance. Regards, Erich Trombley N28ET Classic Mono 914 _____________________________________________________________ Be your own boss today with a Furniture Repair Franchise. Click here. http://3rdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iigjx5y35QLZThw3HGZqXz62W n4dKZFe4NuYoIuTID64H1yOW/


    Message 22


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    Time: 03:36:30 PM PST US
    From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
    Subject: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite
    Nigel I don't profess to be in the know with respect to this technology and probably my attitude belongs to another era but I will not succum to this type of fix. As far as I'm concerned seeing is believing like the sight gauge item there's no way better of knowing the tank is full than seeing fuel in the filler neck. I respect what you say BUT unless there is no clearance between the pins and holes you can not say the pins are taking the loads. IOW for there to be differential slop present the pins don't take the load until they hit the other side of the hole so in the meantime your loctite is taking the load. I repeat that my experiences with the nose leg spindle and loctite "cooks it's goose" for me. I'm prepared to be a prat once but there is no way you catch me twice thanks. Regards Bob Harrison. Robt.C.Harrison -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nigel Graham Sent: 11 September 2007 10:38 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite <nigel_graham@btclick.com> Bob, If I may make the case for the defence ......... Once upon a time in a life far, far away ......I worked for a company developing and manufacturing anaerobic adhesives. (No ...it wasn't Loctite) Part of my job entailed setting up an running the lab tests to quantify the shear and peel strengths of the various formulations under differing assembly (best case, worst case and typical) cleanliness conditions. Even though I knew how the adhesive worked, it never ceased to amaze me how strong this stuff was. Some test pieces (typically a "ring and pin" for shear testing) would fail before the adhesive. One can use many adjectives to describe these adhesives, but "Mickey Mouse" would be THE most inappropriate. I CAN imagine the PFA sanctioning their use. Anaerobic adhesives (Loctite is just one) are a near-perfect engineering solution to our very real engineering problem. They tick all the boxes. They are low cost, simple to administer, lightweight, strong, chemically resistant and (with the use of suitably masked heat) easy to dis-assemble. Most importantly for us, there is no requirement for the entire surface area of the two mating components be completely covered or even completely de-greased. The surface area of the TP4 is so great, that an anaerobic will work even if the adhesive does not wick over the entire surface. Remember that this is being used in addition to (not in place of) the standard drive pins. The adhesive's only function is to prevent relative movement - the pins still take the load. Regards Nigel (the other one) Graham -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of R.C.Harrison Sent: 10 September 2007 22:40 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk> Steve, IMHO I can not imaging how anyone could force you to use such a mickey mouse fix as glue? And what's more I can not imagine the PFA giving its blessing ? At what loading does it separate? What repeatability of performance can be shown ? How can degreasing be guaranteed? Unless it is used for destructive testing! Better use Jubilee clips ...at least that is a known quantity factor! The PFA wouldn't clear that either ! Regards Bob Harrison. PS Sorry but I can not contain my opinion any longer! -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve v Sent: 10 September 2007 21:58 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Play in tailplane drive - Loctite Hi, Do you Know if we will be forced to Loctite the torquetube together? I for one do not want to willingly use loctite, i would prefer to use Bobs clamps as removal would be far easier. steve vestuti G-CEBV #573 Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org


    Message 23


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    Time: 04:01:19 PM PST US
    From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@redzone.com.au>
    Subject: Tank leaks
    Hello Alan, you said:- > Not sure if my tank was the older type, I suspect it wasn't. But the support straps were firmly bonded to the tank. Hope that helps Having been empty for "far too long" after installation, my tank (Classic pre Fluoride treated) rattles around in the cockpit module almost like a pea in a postman's whistle. The layup of the brackets etc did not adhere to the tank. With the revelation of all the cracks in the tanks lately, I am just curious as to whether there is any correlation between tanks (treated and untreated) and (brackets bonded or unbonded) to the tanks. Looks like this matter is almost dead again now so I might just wait until the topic comes around for its next hearing on the list. Cheers Kingsley


    Message 24


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    Time: 05:00:53 PM PST US
    From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@redzone.com.au>
    Subject: Tail Wheel Bearings
    Hello Erich, > I replaced the original tail wheel bearings with sealed ball bearings from a local parts house. If I recall the O.D was a perfect match, however, a spacer was required for the I.D. The sealed bearings are much quieter than the original and do not require maintenance. Like yours, the OD of the bearings I used were also a good fit. How did you stop the wheel hub from migrating along them ? I installed a groove with circlips on the inner side of the bearings to retain them and having not put it all to the test yet, I'm hoping the circlips will be secure enough for any jarring loads. Like you, I put a spacer between the inner race. Cheers Kingsley




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