---------------------------------------------------------- Europa-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 12/30/07: 14 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:30 AM - Re: Bleeding Jamar finger brakes (Ivor Phillips) 2. 07:03 AM - Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: carb balancing (rlborger) 3. 07:52 AM - Re: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: carb balancing (Paul McAllister) 4. 09:34 AM - Bleeding Jamar Brakes (Mrs. Julian Roy.) 5. 11:37 AM - Re: Europaprecision? (Steve Hagar) 6. 01:02 PM - Re: Europaprecision? (Fred Klein) 7. 01:26 PM - mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into cockpit module and Europaprecision () 8. 01:49 PM - Re: Europaprecision? (karelvranken) 9. 03:22 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (josok) 10. 04:29 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (Robert C Harrison) 11. 05:25 PM - Re: Europaprecision? (Greg Fuchs (FB)) 12. 05:25 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (Greg Fuchs (FB)) 13. 05:25 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (Greg Fuchs (FB)) 14. 10:44 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (josok) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:30:20 AM PST US From: "Ivor Phillips" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Bleeding Jamar finger brakes Some Jamar cylinder's had poor machining on the bores, Definitely worth checking, When checking the bore's also check the seals, On my first cylinder I had mis-match seals of different materials, this prompted me to replace all my seals with good quality ones, When both piston's are at rest they should be clear of a cross drilled connection in the body of the master cylinder, check it isn't obstructed, On the front of the piston seals are plastic washer's these can stick in the bores so reduce there size slightly, I have done away with the DOT5 Silicone fluid entirely , replacing it with the DOT 5.1 glycol based fluids, But if you do this all your seals will need replacing including the seals in the handbrake valve and calipers, Bleeding was as simple as putting a small funnel on top of the reservoir filled with fluid so the master cylinder had a good head of fluid, Undoing a caliper bleed nipple one at a time and watch the air being expelled, The reason DOT 5 Silicone fluid is recommended is because it is combatable with both types of rubber seals used in the Master cylinder and Calipers/handbrake valve, If you check the archives there is a lot of information Regards Ivor -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rob@Neils.US Sent: 30 December 2007 00:54 Subject: Europa-List: Bleeding Jamar finger brakes My reservoir is not pressurized. I bleed the brakes as Craig describes but I can't get any pressure on the second stroke unless the Jamar brakes are verticle instead or horizontal. I can get all the air out of the system by working the cylinders only when verticle then pumping fluid up from the brake nipple to where the brake line loosely connects to the clylinders until I get no bubbles the I tighten the cylinder/line connection. Doing this makes the brakes work well...for quite a while but when I have to bleed the system again I have to dismount the cylinders and loosen the cylinder/line connection allowing bubbles and brake fluid to seep out until I tighten the connection. It's a real pain to go through all this to simply bleed the brakes...and it makes a mess. There's gotta be something wrong with the system that I haven't yet been able to figure out. Maybe a leak? Maybe a piston part in backwards? Maybe poor machining on the cylinders allowing leak-by on the return stroke? ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:03:59 AM PST US From: rlborger Subject: Europa-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: carb balancing Paul, Having read your comments and gone through a Google search, reading the posted comments, I'm convinced. I'll order one. Now, which set of fittings are needed for the Rotax? Standard? BMW? 5mm? 6mm? Thanks... Good building and great flying, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL (90%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in, Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar in, flap drive in, Mod 70 done. Baggage bay in. Flaps & Main Gear complete. Mod 72 complete. Instrument panel complete, except for testing. Rotax 914 installed (for the 3rd time). Airmaster Prop installed. Electrical complete, except for testing. Fuel system complete except for testing. Working in - 32 Tail, 34 Door Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Interior & Finishing. Airmaster arrived 29 Sep 05. Seat arrived from Oregon Aero. E04 interior kit has arrived and is being installed. 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Dec 29, 2007, at 9:14 PM, Paul McAllister wrote: > > Hi all, > > I just wanted to share my experience with carburettor balancing. I > purchased the vacuum gaauges from Lockwood aviation, but for some > reason I was never able to get them balanced nicely. In particular > I would find I had a vibration in the range of 3200 ~ 3500 RPM. > > Any how I purchased a TwinMax carburettor balancer. This thing is > awesome, it has variable sensitivity and I can get them nuts on > using this thing. I am able to idle my 914T ar 1500 RPM nicely. > It makes quite a difference to my Europa during the landing phase. > If you google TwinMax you can find several suppliers. Tryhttp:// > www.adventuremotogear.com/twinmax.mgi?mgiToken=29HJXUUF > > Cheers, Paul > > N378PJ > http://www.europa.net.nz/363/index.html ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:52:16 AM PST US From: "Paul McAllister" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: carb balancing Hi Bob, Sorry mate I machined up my own so I can't advise you. Paul ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:34:00 AM PST US From: "Mrs. Julian Roy." Subject: Europa-List: Bleeding Jamar Brakes I've got a solution which works: stretch the spring in the Jamar master cylinders so that the finger brake levers return to their starting position with vigor. When the spring returns the lever slowly then blowing bubbles out of the system can't be done because the bubbles ascend in the fluid in the long brake lines faster than the master cylinder replenishes. When a stronger return happens, brake fluid from the reservour is sucked more vigorously back into the master cylinders allowing the lever to be pressurized again quickly thus forcing the bubbles more quickly down the long brake line of a tri-gear. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 11:37:43 AM PST US From: "Steve Hagar" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Europaprecision? Fred: I find it contrary to the general consensus that you are struck by the high degree of precision built into the kit. I was struck by what I considered that each and every model seems to me to be custom built. Many of the questions on the forum seek the solution to something not fitting or lining up right. My aircraft flies true but that is only because of the many hours making fixtures and jigs to line things up or to purposely make something slightly misaligned so that the left of the aircraft looks exactly like the right. Having a mill and lathe in the garage was a godsend. I had developed a high degree of patience and manual dexterity in crafting the plane. However now that I am older I seem to have lost alot of the patience. Old business: I have tore into the top of the cockpit seatback to get at the gas tank to pull it out because of the crack. Once the top was off what was present was slightly disturbing. We have our extra support pads to keep the tank from pooching into our spar cavity and interfering with the aileron belcrank rod. Every interior surface looks like that. The top of the tank is vavy from expansion and the back surface exhibits the same condition. In all cases flat surfaces of the tank are stressed and buckled because of the expansion. You just don't see it unless you take the lid off. I made note to a motorhead friend of mine at work that my airplane had gotten a crack in its gas tank. He knows nothing of Europas or of homebuilt aircraft. He asked me if I had a rotomolded polyethelyne tank. I said yes. He asked me if I left the tank dry for awhile. Yes again. He noted to me that there is a kit car company out there that makes custom tanks as these for cars. The company specifically states that if you mount the tank by fiberglassing it in and let it dry out. It will crack and they assume no responsibility. You are supposed to buy their mounting kit and strap it in. In any case I don't believe I am going to put my replacement polyethelyne tank back in the aircraft. I am going to pursue making an aluminum (aluminium for you other guys) tank up with AN fittings. Also I also have a pair of reamers available 16 and 16.5 mm, one for the rough cut and one for the fine cut. I have cut them short and machined a hex on each end. That way you don't have to pull the endine way out and you can put a ratchet on the end to run them home. Check some photos of the tank and the crack attached. Steve Hagar A 143 Mesa AZ > [Original Message] > From: Fred Klein > To: > Date: 12/28/2007 5:57:40 PM > Subject: Europa-List: Europaprecision > > > Hi Guys...and Happy New Year > > From time to time in the course of building I am struck by the high > degree of precision built into our kits. While I salute the company for > its high quality precision parts, I'm finding that occasionally I > haven't done my part (at least the first time around) in ensuring that > the end result measures up to the standard required for the eventual > hours of trouble-free flying which so many of you (sigh) are already > enjoying. > > For those of you who are still a'buildin' the monowheel and have yet to > assemble the main landing gear, here's a pitfall I stepped into which > is easily avoided...with just a tad of forethought: > > When installing the bushes in the shock absorber bottom plate (now > that's a bit of heavy iron!) LG07, do NOT loctite them in until AFTER > you have ensured that you have smooth rotation on the pin LG04. I > failed to do this and found that my bushes were mis-aligned just enough > to cause the pin to bind...if left in this way, there's no doubt in my > mind that the bushes wouldn't be able to do their job and the result > would be wear in the holes for the pin in the swing arm LG02 and LG02A > which I fear would shortly introduce all kinds of slop. > > As a consequence of my mistake, I have attempted to use heat to loosen > the loctite bond to no avail...even w/ a propane torch (while taking > care to not mar my nicely powdercoated LG07). Attempts to remove the > bushes are complicated by the soft nature of the bearings. > > Sooooo....I've just received 2 new bushings from mcmaster-carr (P/N > 6391K178) and my plan is to drill out the offending bushes and 'ave > another go. > > This time I'll do a trial assembly of all the parts which the pin LG04 > passes through before indulging w/ the loctite. > > Old Pennsylvania Dutch saying: Why do I get so late smarter? > > Fred > A194 > > > -- > This message has been scanned for viruses and > dangerous content by MailScanner, and is > believed to be clean. > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 01:02:18 PM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europaprecision? From: Fred Klein On Sunday, Dec 30, 2007, at 11:33 US/Pacific, Steve Hagar wrote: > I have tore into the top of the cockpit seatback to get at > the gas tank to pull it out because of the crack. Once the top was off > what > was present was slightly disturbing. We have our extra support pads > to > keep the tank from pooching into our spar cavity and interfering with > the > aileron belcrank rod. Every interior surface looks like that. The > top of > the tank is vavy from expansion and the back surface exhibits the same > condition. In all cases flat surfaces of the tank are stressed and > buckled > because of the expansion. You just don't see it unless you take the > lid > off. Steve, Thanks for sharing your frustrations w/ your fuel tank and passing on your thoughts on the issue of cracking....sobering thoughts and pixs indeed. A couple of questions: - When you say "extra support pads", do you mean that you installed some pads in addition to those called for?...If so, can you describe them? - At some point, I seem to recall that the supplied tanks were changed in some way to eliminate or reduce expansion. When did you purchase your original tank? Do you know if you have one of the earlier or later versions of the tank? - Do you attribute your tank's failure (in part) to any extreme temperature conditions which it may have been exposed to in your part of the world? To Anyone: Would you be willing to share any protocols you follow which you believe will guard against tank shrinkage and stress cracking? > I made note to a motorhead friend of mine at work that my airplane had > gotten a crack in its gas tank. He knows nothing of Europas or of > homebuilt aircraft. He asked me if I had a rotomolded polyethelyne > tank. > I said yes. He asked me if I left the tank dry for awhile. Yes > again. He > noted to me that there is a kit car company out there that makes > custom > tanks as these for cars. The company specifically states that if you > mount > the tank by fiberglassing it in and let it dry out. It will crack and > they > assume no responsibility. You are supposed to buy their mounting kit > and > strap it in. I got to confess that I questioned (to myself) the implications of fibreglassing in a tank which is subject to expansion, but blithely went ahead and installed it per plans, ignoring that little voice saying, "Hey...this can't be good, there's got to be a better way!" As for my previous post about my opinion of the high degree of precision built into the kit, I made that as an architect and homebuilder, not as a machinist, so the world of tight tolerances is one in which I've had virtually no direct experience. I do marvel at some of the various hardware assemblies and know that if left to my own devices for fabrication the results would not be satisfactory...sometimes the designs seem a bit too clever but that's a story for another time. > Also I also have a pair of reamers available 16 and 16.5 mm, one for > the > rough cut and one for the fine cut. I have cut them short and > machined a > hex on each end. That way you don't have to pull the endine way out > and > you can put a ratchet on the end to run them home. That sounds excellent...thanks for your offer to make them available to others! Regards and good luck w/ getting your plane back in the air soon, Fred -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 01:26:18 PM PST US From: Subject: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into cockpit module and Europaprecision Since this is a hot topic right now, here is my input for the Europaprecision thread (my view only): Although there are areas for improvement, I will never expect everything in a kit as complex as this, to line up perfectly. Without getting into company names, I have heard builders from other well known composite aircraft manufacturers cuss profusely about the way some of their kit components lined up. Even some items (like doors), that were supposedly pre-molded to fit (and finished, direct from the factory), had to be completely overhauled over many time-consuming hours before they did. I think that just goes with the territory for our (stronger than aluminum) 'plastic' airplanes. Again, just my 2 cents. That being said, here is my current problem : I may have a clearance issue, with the top of the bellcrank bracket encroaching up to a quarter-inch into the sidewall of the fuselage. When mounting the bellcrank brackets to the back of the cockpit module, the manual states: "Set CS14 to be vertical relative to the cockpit module; an eyeball assessment will be sufficient in this case. Ensure the spars are clear of the brackets." Then (again, following the lead in the manual), I tightened a one-quarter inch rod onto the bellcrank bracket with two nuts on either side. The end of the rod went well into the wing spar (where I left it), effectively lining up the bellcrank position. This still allows the bracket to spin in a circle. I picked a vertical position for both, and bonded them in, then later bonded the bolts into the bracket holes (and the 3mm plywood), to hold the bellcrank. Too late now, to redo the quarter inch rod technique. Upon later inspection, it seems that the outer topmost (with respect to the aircraft) quarter inch or so, of the bracket, exceeds the fuselage shell (using the cp module fuselage-connecting flanges as the reference point). Now granted, it was a straight line look, and the fuselage is curved. Even so- it seems to me, that it will butt up against the fuselage, and probably bend inboard slightly, affecting the aileron to cockpit bellcrank mating, by putting more distance between the two. I have not placed the module into the fuselage to check it yet, because the fuselage top currently rests on the bottom part, and have not had a chance to remove the two. Even so, I think it would be hard to see what's going on down there, upon placing the module into it, since the mechanism is pretty well hidden under the seat back. It could be a non-issue, if the hole cut in the side of the fuselage to accept the wing spar (wing root area, and molding), is big enough to encompass the top of the bracket. Has anyone run into this or had to correct for it, or any ideas? Thanks in advance, Greg Fuchs ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 01:49:47 PM PST US From: "karelvranken" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europaprecision? Steve, Most of us are "older". Nevertheless I admire your courage. You will find every time the solution for the problems that occur. May 2008 be for you without new mods and without old misfits. Think about the joy when you will fly your bird very soon. Happy New Year. Karel Vranken F-PKRL. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Hagar" Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 8:33 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Europaprecision? > Fred: > > I find it contrary to the general consensus that you are struck by the > high degree of precision built into the kit. I was struck by what I > considered that each and every model seems to me to be custom built. Many > of the questions on the forum seek the solution to something not fitting > or > lining up right. My aircraft flies true but that is only because of the > many hours making fixtures and jigs to line things up or to purposely > make > something slightly misaligned so that the left of the aircraft looks > exactly like the right. Having a mill and lathe in the garage was a > godsend. I had developed a high degree of patience and manual dexterity in > crafting the plane. However now that I am older I seem to have lost alot > of the patience. > > Old business: I have tore into the top of the cockpit seatback to get at > the gas tank to pull it out because of the crack. Once the top was off > what > was present was slightly disturbing. We have our extra support pads to > keep the tank from pooching into our spar cavity and interfering with the > aileron belcrank rod. Every interior surface looks like that. The top of > the tank is vavy from expansion and the back surface exhibits the same > condition. In all cases flat surfaces of the tank are stressed and > buckled > because of the expansion. You just don't see it unless you take the lid > off. > I made note to a motorhead friend of mine at work that my airplane had > gotten a crack in its gas tank. He knows nothing of Europas or of > homebuilt aircraft. He asked me if I had a rotomolded polyethelyne tank. > I said yes. He asked me if I left the tank dry for awhile. Yes again. > He > noted to me that there is a kit car company out there that makes custom > tanks as these for cars. The company specifically states that if you > mount > the tank by fiberglassing it in and let it dry out. It will crack and > they > assume no responsibility. You are supposed to buy their mounting kit and > strap it in. > > In any case I don't believe I am going to put my replacement polyethelyne > tank back in the aircraft. I am going to pursue making an aluminum > (aluminium for you other guys) tank up with AN fittings. > > Also I also have a pair of reamers available 16 and 16.5 mm, one for the > rough cut and one for the fine cut. I have cut them short and machined > a > hex on each end. That way you don't have to pull the endine way out and > you can put a ratchet on the end to run them home. > > Check some photos of the tank and the crack attached. > > Steve Hagar > A 143 > Mesa AZ > > >> [Original Message] >> From: Fred Klein >> To: >> Date: 12/28/2007 5:57:40 PM >> Subject: Europa-List: Europaprecision >> >> >> Hi Guys...and Happy New Year >> >> From time to time in the course of building I am struck by the high >> degree of precision built into our kits. While I salute the company for >> its high quality precision parts, I'm finding that occasionally I >> haven't done my part (at least the first time around) in ensuring that >> the end result measures up to the standard required for the eventual >> hours of trouble-free flying which so many of you (sigh) are already >> enjoying. >> >> For those of you who are still a'buildin' the monowheel and have yet to >> assemble the main landing gear, here's a pitfall I stepped into which >> is easily avoided...with just a tad of forethought: >> >> When installing the bushes in the shock absorber bottom plate (now >> that's a bit of heavy iron!) LG07, do NOT loctite them in until AFTER >> you have ensured that you have smooth rotation on the pin LG04. I >> failed to do this and found that my bushes were mis-aligned just enough >> to cause the pin to bind...if left in this way, there's no doubt in my >> mind that the bushes wouldn't be able to do their job and the result >> would be wear in the holes for the pin in the swing arm LG02 and LG02A >> which I fear would shortly introduce all kinds of slop. >> >> As a consequence of my mistake, I have attempted to use heat to loosen >> the loctite bond to no avail...even w/ a propane torch (while taking >> care to not mar my nicely powdercoated LG07). Attempts to remove the >> bushes are complicated by the soft nature of the bearings. >> >> Sooooo....I've just received 2 new bushings from mcmaster-carr (P/N >> 6391K178) and my plan is to drill out the offending bushes and 'ave >> another go. >> >> This time I'll do a trial assembly of all the parts which the pin LG04 >> passes through before indulging w/ the loctite. >> >> Old Pennsylvania Dutch saying: Why do I get so late smarter? >> >> Fred >> A194 >> >> >> -- >> This message has been scanned for viruses and >> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is >> believed to be clean. >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 03:22:58 PM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into From: "josok" Hi Greg, The brackets should be inside the outline of the cockpit module. Have a look at my efforts there, the link is http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album73&sid=a3309a4ca706651d65ddf4ee58137e4b&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php There are a few pictures that clearly show the situation. Maybe the brackets are upside down, or port-starboard interchanged? Later, once the cockpit module is mounted in the fuselage you will lap up the brackets to the fuselage. If wrong, better to correct now. Regards, Jos Okhuijsen Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org Attachments: http://www.europaowners.org//zfiles/img_1737.sized_198.jpg ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 04:29:42 PM PST US From: "Robert C Harrison" Subject: RE: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into Hi! Greg I'm very late entering this one but be sure to alternate male/female ...female/male to make the reconnect fool proof. I remember assisting connecting William Mills once for him only to hear he flew home without an ASI because they were crossed. Regards Bob H G-PTAG -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of josok Sent: 30 December 2007 23:22 Subject: Re: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into Hi Greg, The brackets should be inside the outline of the cockpit module. Have a look at my efforts there, the link is http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album73&sid=a3309a 4ca706651d65ddf4ee58137e4b&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=vi ew_album.php There are a few pictures that clearly show the situation. Maybe the brackets are upside down, or port-starboard interchanged? Later, once the cockpit module is mounted in the fuselage you will lap up the brackets to the fuselage. If wrong, better to correct now. Regards, Jos Okhuijsen ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 05:25:03 PM PST US From: "Greg Fuchs (FB)" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Europaprecision? Steve, Keep us informed, if you come up with a solution. It would be intriguing to try something else. I saw a picture somewhere of one other member that built an aluminum tank. Thanks for the informative pics. Regards, Greg. -----snip----- In any case I don't believe I am going to put my replacement polyethelyne tank back in the aircraft. I am going to pursue making an aluminum (aluminium for you other guys) tank up with AN fittings. Check some photos of the tank and the crack attached. Steve Hagar A 143 Mesa AZ Do not archive ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 05:25:03 PM PST US From: "Greg Fuchs (FB)" Subject: RE: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into Jos, Thanks for the comment and picture link. I seem to have the orientation of the brackets ok (the holes drilled into the bracket are in the same spot as in your pictures), and have trial fitted the wing bellcranks to the cockpit bellcranks by inserting the wings, and they mate very well. I hate to undo that which mates so well, but will have to, if that's what it takes. I will prob do a trial fit in the fuselage, and if the bracket leans inboard, I won't have a choice, but to redo. Then give each bracket top an inboard twist around the positioning bolt by about 3/8" (and consequently the bracket bottom an outboard twist), and a new base of araldite. I am going to think about it for a little while though, and am open to any more ideas or enlightenments from anyone. Part of the bellcrank is outside the fuselage shell as well, in the area of the hole in the side of the fuselage. I assume this is normal, since the dimensions are set by the hole spacing in the wing spars. Can you or someone please confirm this? Thanks, Greg Fuchs -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of josok Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 3:22 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into Hi Greg, The brackets should be inside the outline of the cockpit module. Have a look at my efforts there, the link is http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album73&sid=a3309a4ca7 06651d65ddf4ee58137e4b&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album .php There are a few pictures that clearly show the situation. Maybe the brackets are upside down, or port-starboard interchanged? Later, once the cockpit module is mounted in the fuselage you will lap up the brackets to the fuselage. If wrong, better to correct now. Regards, Jos Okhuijsen Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org Attachments: http://www.europaowners.org//zfiles/img_1737.sized_198.jpg ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 05:25:03 PM PST US From: "Greg Fuchs (FB)" Subject: RE: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into Thanks Bob, but I am just a tiny bit confused. Were you talking about the pitot tube connectors? I am talking about the bellcrank support brackets being possibly slightly outboard of the airfram. But I will be sure to work on your experience and take that advice when I get there, and alternate the pitot connectors. I definately don't want to lose my ASI, either. If you meant something else, please set me straight. Thanks again, and Best Regards, Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert C Harrison Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 4:25 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into Hi! Greg I'm very late entering this one but be sure to alternate male/female ...female/male to make the reconnect fool proof. I remember assisting connecting William Mills once for him only to hear he flew home without an ASI because they were crossed. Regards Bob H G-PTAG ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:44:51 PM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into From: "josok" Part of the bell crank is outside the fuselage shell as well, in the area of the hole in the side of the fuselage. I assume this is normal, since the dimensions are set by the hole spacing in the wing spars. Can you or someone please confirm this? -----[/quote:6192b041ef] Yes, the bell cranks move outside, that's normal. From your reply i now understand that the brackets are rotated - top out bottom in - Yes, you should correct it. The inside of the brackets, after glassing in, should be about 90 degrees to the sides. The manual also calls for the brackets to be squared up, also that is quite important to make fitting the wings easier. Thinking back, i see now what my problem was here. Later, when fitting the wings, the manual calls for a check of the line up of the bell crank. One of them was not in line anymore, while i am quite sure it was ok in the stage you are in now. The brackets, until glassed in, are flexible enough to be pushed around, out of square. That must have happened, not much, but just the 5 millimeters that were missing. Please check the squareness again before glassing :-) Regards, Jos Okhuijsen Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message europa-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/europa-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/europa-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.