Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:54 AM - Renewing Rapco trike brake linings...... (Robert C Harrison)
     2. 06:46 AM - Re: Renewing Rapco trike brake linings...... (Rman)
     3. 07:06 AM - Re: Renewing Rapco trike brake linings...... (R Holder)
     4. 07:06 AM - Re: Monowheel Capture (Robert Borger)
     5. 08:09 AM - Re: Monowheel Capture (europaman)
     6. 09:22 AM - Finger Strainers (flyingphil2)
     7. 10:04 AM - Re: Finger Strainers (josok)
     8. 12:41 PM - Re: Finger Strainers (craig bastin)
     9. 01:55 PM - Re: Re: Finger Strainers (Robert C Harrison)
    10. 02:13 PM - Re: Renewing Rapco trike brake linings...... (Robert C Harrison)
    11. 02:46 PM - club dinner mentioned in loop (Rowland Carson)
 
 
 
Message 1
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| Subject:  | Renewing Rapco trike brake linings...... | 
      
      Hi! All 
      Any help /suggestions with a problem encountered renewing the brake 
      linings?
      I have Europa supplied Aircraft Spruce Rapco brake linings supplied as a 
      kit
      with the rivets, I also have the correct anvil and punch to install the
      linings on the back plates.
      Having split two linings I have examined all the parts and it would seem
      that the rivets are flat under the heads and the hole in the new pads is
      countersunk.
       The rivets are marked "4-4" and they don't seem long enough to exit the
      back of the plate to begin to "peen" over before "snugging" on to the 
      new
      pad hence when more "peening" is applied the pad splits before the
      unchamfered rivet assumes a conical shape to match the chamfered hole in 
      the
      new lining.
      To me it is quite obvious that the rivets should be chamfered under the
      heads then they just may be long enough to "PEEN" OVER BEHIND THE PLATE.
      Otherwise just supplying longer unchamfered rivets will still split the
      pads?
      Any one overcome this problem ? and how ? 
      I'd be delighted to hear.
      Regards
      Bob Harrison.
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Renewing Rapco trike brake linings...... | 
      
      Bob,
      
      I'm not close to my brake supplies, but I believe the rivets should be 
      4-6 (or was it 4-8)  At any rate, I had to purchase the rivets 
      separately, as the ones supplied with the linings were too short.  Once 
      you have the proper rivets, the rest is a piece of cake.
      
      Jeff - Baby Blue
      370 hrs
      
      
      Robert C Harrison wrote:
      > Hi! All 
      > Any help /suggestions with a problem encountered renewing the brake linings?
      > I have Europa supplied Aircraft Spruce Rapco brake linings supplied as a kit
      > with the rivets, I also have the correct anvil and punch to install the
      > linings on the back plates.
      > Having split two linings I have examined all the parts and it would seem
      > that the rivets are flat under the heads and the hole in the new pads is
      > countersunk.
      >  The rivets are marked "4-4" and they don't seem long enough to exit the
      > back of the plate to begin to "peen" over before "snugging" on to the new
      > pad hence when more "peening" is applied the pad splits before the
      > unchamfered rivet assumes a conical shape to match the chamfered hole in the
      > new lining.
      > To me it is quite obvious that the rivets should be chamfered under the
      > heads then they just may be long enough to "PEEN" OVER BEHIND THE PLATE.
      > Otherwise just supplying longer unchamfered rivets will still split the
      > pads?
      > Any one overcome this problem ? and how ? 
      > I'd be delighted to hear.
      > Regards
      > Bob Harrison.
      >   
      > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      >
      >   
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Renewing Rapco trike brake linings...... | 
      
      
      Rman wrote:
      
      > I'm not close to my brake supplies, but I believe the
      > rivets should be 4-6 (or was it 4-8)  At any rate, I
      > had to purchase the rivets separately, as the ones
      > supplied with the linings were too short.  Once you
      > have the proper rivets, the rest is a piece of cake.
      > 
      > Jeff - Baby Blue 370 hrs
      
      Bob
      
      I can confirm you have to use the 4-6 rivets which ACS
      sell, and so do Europa.
      
      This is because the backplate is ali and is thicker. Steel
      backplates are thinner and use 4-4 rivets !
      
      ACS also sell a rivet removal/replacing tool which is a
      screw fit and does not need the use of a hammer !
      
      Richard Holder
      G-OWWW Classic Tri-Gear
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Monowheel Capture | 
      
      
      Troy,
      
      I have posted a number of pics of my monowheel on the trailer.   
      Unfortunately, the fuselage is all masked up for painting so you can't  
      see the tire.  Not much text yet, but some comments in the pics.   
      Perhaps you can see what you needed.  The pics are in my Trailer album.
      
      Good building and great flying,
      Bob Borger
      Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
      http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
      (90%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch  
      system in, landing gear complete, rudder system in with Singleton Mod,  
      outrigger mod in, Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing  
      incidence set, tie bar in, flap drive in,  baggage bay in. Fuel system  
      complte.  Rotax and Airmaster installed.  Mods 62, 66, 70 & 72 done.   
      Compled the instrument panel install.   Europa interior kit being  
      installed.  Installed windows.  Working in -  25 Electrical, 28 Flaps,  
      30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.    
      Mostly finishing these days.
      3705 Lynchburg Dr.
      Corinth, TX  76208
      Home:  940-497-2123
      Cel:  817-992-1117
      
      
      On Feb 20, 2008, at 20:47, europaman wrote:
      
      >
      > Tom,
      > Yes, a picture or two here would be great. Maybe of the hinge area  
      > and the LG frame contact area if your plane is on the trailer now.  
      > Thanks.
      > Troy
      >
      >
      > Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org
      >
      >
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Monowheel Capture | 
      
      
      Thanks Bob for posting the pix. They are helpful. Now I've got more work to do.
      
      Troy
      
      
      Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Finger Strainers | 
      
      
      Hi,
      
      I'm soon going to be making my coarse finger fuel strainers and wondered if anyone
      had any comments on these or if they had made any changes.
      
      I've done a search and there's a few comments but nothing else.  I'm assuming that
      everyone is pretty happy with them and if that's the case I'll go ahead and
      make and fit them.
      
      Thanks,
      
      Phil
      
      
      Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Finger Strainers | 
      
      
      Hi Phil,
      
      Sorry for the long story that follows :-)
      One of the messages mentioning finger strainers was from Bob Harrison. He had a
      forced landing once, because the strainers were blocked by debris and dog hair.
      At the time i read that message, i was sure there would not be any hair in
      my tank. However, a bit later i noticed a dog hair on the outside of the tank,
      still in the unmounted cockpit module. The dog had never been in the workshop.
      But the tank is so static, that it pulled the hair from my clothes. Carefully
      cleaning the tank, i collected quite a lot of everything, including a lot of
      lint, from the surface. That made me think about the usefulness of these strainers,
      since there would be gascolator downstream anyway. They will keep small
      pebbles and peas from blocking the fuel lines upstream of the gascolater, and
      will be blocked by anything like lint. I do not expect much peas entering the
      tank. Peas and pebbles are not static. Inspecting the finger restrainers on a
      regular bases is so difficult, that it will probably
        lead to no inspection ever. Hence there are no restrainers on my bird. But then
      i am not handicapped by PFA. 
      
      Regards,
      
      Jos Okhuijsen
      
      
      Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Finger Strainers | 
      
      
      if you are going the solder option to make them, i wrapped mine around a
      piece of alloy tube to form them
      soldered them up, slid off the end of the tube about 6mm then just pushed it
      point first into the bench
      to just close the end up enough to solder that. very quick and easy, then
      you can redux them in right away
      
      craig
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of flyingphil2
      Sent: Sunday, 24 February 2008 3:19 AM
      Subject: Europa-List: Finger Strainers
      
      
      
      Hi,
      
      I'm soon going to be making my coarse finger fuel strainers and wondered if
      anyone had any comments on these or if they had made any changes.
      
      I've done a search and there's a few comments but nothing else.  I'm
      assuming that everyone is pretty happy with them and if that's the case I'll
      go ahead and make and fit them.
      
      Thanks,
      
      Phil
      
      
      Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org
      
      
      6:39 PM
      
      6:39 PM
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Finger Strainers | 
      
      
      Hi! Phil /Jos
      Didn't see Phils original message however a piece of additional info of
      my experience with the gauze type finger strainer was twofold.
      a) the gauze actually traps any cloth fibres /long hairs and they dangle
      inside the strainer (LIKE IN A WASH BASIN OR Bath Plug hole)
      In my case simultaneously the trapped fibres suddenly plugged the exit
      holes in both the main tank and reserve.
      b) however my situation also highlighted another deficiency in that the
      hole drilled in the bottom of the strainers was insufficiently deep to
      provide a full intersection  orifice with the continuing exit pipe of
      the connector.
      The aforementioned plug once sucked in just stopped all flow. What's
      more back blowing of the fuel doesn't rid you of the plug it merely puts
      the plug loose in the tubular gauze to do you a repeat first time you
      put full power on.
      IF you have the connector standing on the outflow pipe and tilted over
      off vertical you can drill out the intersection 
      Regards
      Bob Harrison.
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of josok
      Sent: 23 February 2008 17:59
      Subject: Europa-List: Re: Finger Strainers
      
      
      Hi Phil,
      
      Sorry for the long story that follows :-)
      One of the messages mentioning finger strainers was from Bob Harrison.
      He had a forced landing once, because the strainers were blocked by
      debris and dog hair. At the time i read that message, i was sure there
      would not be any hair in my tank. However, a bit later i noticed a dog
      hair on the outside of the tank, still in the unmounted cockpit module.
      The dog had never been in the workshop. But the tank is so static, that
      it pulled the hair from my clothes. Carefully cleaning the tank, i
      collected quite a lot of everything, including a lot of lint, from the
      surface. That made me think about the usefulness of these strainers,
      since there would be gascolator downstream anyway. They will keep small
      pebbles and peas from blocking the fuel lines upstream of the
      gascolater, and will be blocked by anything like lint. I do not expect
      much peas entering the tank. Peas and pebbles are not static. Inspecting
      the finger restrainers on a regular bases is so difficult, that it will
      probably
        lead to no inspection ever. Hence there are no restrainers on my bird.
      But then i am not handicapped by PFA. 
      
      Regards,
      
      Jos Okhuijsen
      
      
      Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org
      
      
      -- 
      22/02/2008 18:39
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Renewing Rapco trike brake linings...... | 
      
      Hi! Jeff and Richard 
      Thanks for the quick responses, I was dumb to even try but not so dumb
      as Europa for sending the packs without the larger rivets anyway I spoke
      to Neville Eyre and he says he remembers that one Chris Gunnee (Spares
      man of yesteryear ) always had some of the longer rivets in his desk
      draw ! Not much damn good to me now!
      Regards
      Bob H G-PTAG
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rman
      Sent: 23 February 2008 14:43
      Subject: Re: Europa-List: Renewing Rapco trike brake linings......
      
      Bob,
      
      I'm not close to my brake supplies, but I believe the rivets should be
      4-6 (or was it 4-8)  At any rate, I had to purchase the rivets
      separately, as the ones supplied with the linings were too short.  Once
      you have the proper rivets, the rest is a piece of cake.
      
      Jeff - Baby Blue
      370 hrs
      
      
      Robert C Harrison wrote: 
      Hi! All 
      Any help /suggestions with a problem encountered renewing the brake
      linings?
      I have Europa supplied Aircraft Spruce Rapco brake linings supplied as a
      kit
      with the rivets, I also have the correct anvil and punch to install the
      linings on the back plates.
      Having split two linings I have examined all the parts and it would seem
      that the rivets are flat under the heads and the hole in the new pads is
      countersunk.
       The rivets are marked "4-4" and they don't seem long enough to exit the
      back of the plate to begin to "peen" over before "snugging" on to the
      new
      pad hence when more "peening" is applied the pad splits before the
      unchamfered rivet assumes a conical shape to match the chamfered hole in
      the
      new lining.
      To me it is quite obvious that the rivets should be chamfered under the
      heads then they just may be long enough to "PEEN" OVER BEHIND THE PLATE.
      Otherwise just supplying longer unchamfered rivets will still split the
      pads?
      Any one overcome this problem ? and how ? 
      I'd be delighted to hear.
      Regards
      Bob Harrison.
      
      
        _____  
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | club dinner mentioned in loop | 
      
      
      For anyone who hasn't already noticed, the Europa Club dinner got a 
      mention in the "clubs" section of Loop magazine this month. The 
      pictures were taken by Mike Gregory.
      
      regards
      
      Rowland
      -- 
      | Rowland Carson  LAA #16532    http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/
      | 950 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI  e-mail <rowil@clara.net>
      
      
 
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