Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:23 AM - Re: High temperature fiberglass (Pete Lawless)
2. 12:46 AM - Re: High temperature fiberglass (Gilles Thesee)
3. 03:35 AM - Re: High temperature fiberglass (Duncan & Ami McFadyean)
4. 04:37 AM - Re: High temperature fiberglass (Karl Heindl)
5. 04:43 AM - Re: High temperature fiberglass (Karl Heindl)
6. 04:48 AM - Re: Stall warner (David Joyce)
7. 09:20 AM - De-greaser (flyingphil2)
8. 09:47 AM - Re: De-greaser (Fred Klein)
9. 10:39 AM - Re: De-greaser (david miller)
10. 10:45 AM - Re: Mod to pilot (David Joyce)
11. 10:59 AM - Re: High temperature fiberglass (D Wysong)
12. 11:13 AM - Re: De-greaser (David Joyce)
13. 12:09 PM - Re: De-greaser (ALAN YERLY)
14. 02:41 PM - Re: Re: High temperature fiberglass (JEFF ROBERTS)
15. 03:09 PM - Re: Re: High temperature fiberglass (Paul McAllister)
16. 03:25 PM - Re: Re: High temperature fiberglass (Robert C Harrison)
17. 04:19 PM - Re: Re: Door Hinges (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | High temperature fiberglass |
Karl do you mean 4.5 degrees C above OAT?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
Sent: 09 March 2008 02:55
Subject: RE: Europa-List: High temperature fiberglass
Paul,
I wouldn't know the answers to those questions. Most 912S's have that
shroud. I once checked the temperature under the shroud and found it
only to
be about 45C above oat. I was hoping to tap into that for cabin heat,
but it
wasn't hot enough, at least not near the front of the engine. Of course
the
under cowling temperatures rise dramatically after engine shutdown.
Karl
<html><div></div>
> Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:05:11 -0600
> From: paul.the.aviator@gmail.com
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: High temperature fiberglass
>
<paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I was looking at a Rotax installation in a Diamond Kintana the other
> day and I noticed that they have manufactured a fiberglass plenum air
> duct to drive the airflow over the cylinder heads and downwards.
>
> Anyhow, I am curious about what type of fiberglass cloth and resin
> system they use that could withstand the temperatures under the
> cowling. Does anyone have any idea ?
>
>=====================
>
=======================
>
>
>
--
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| Subject: | Re: High temperature fiberglass |
Robert C Harrison a crit :
> I had to apply heat to the plenum/hood and it responds to
> temperature and allows a deformation so IMHO it is still standard resin
> and fiberglass.
> I am catching air aft of oil cooler and radiator with adequate heat (not
> as hot as I used to get from the Jabiru oil Cooler but comfortable.
>
Bob and all,
This airshroud is not transparent, its opaque appearance reminds me of
the so-called "High temp" resin we used for some parts in the engine
compartment. Those part needed some heat treatment in an oven after cure
in order to avoid brittleness.
I too devised a cabin heat pickup in the rear of the radiator tunnel.
The radiators are in tandem, so we get plenty of heat, especially when
OAT is cold and the tunnel flap is closed.
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
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| Subject: | Re: High temperature fiberglass |
Aside from the exhausts, the hottest external part of a 912 is the
cylinders (walls, not head), which are allowed a maximum temp of 190C.
There are a number of high temp epoxies available. Cheap and widely
obtainable is the Borden Chemical range, which has a Tg of 150C
(following post cure).
I suspect that the epoxy in the Rotax hood is loaded with fire retardant
(probably Antimony Trioxide), hence its opaque white colour. I've not
otherwise found a high temp resin that is fire retardant, or a fire
retardant epoxy (there are lots in use for marine applications, to keep
the insurance companies happy) that has other than a low Tg. Still
doesn't explain the extraordinary high cost of the Rotax cylinder hood.
Duncan McF.
> Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:05:11 -0600
> From: paul.the.aviator@gmail.com
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: High temperature fiberglass
>
<paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I was looking at a Rotax installation in a Diamond Kintana the other
> day and I noticed that they have manufactured a fiberglass plenum air
> duct to drive the airflow over the cylinder heads and downwards.
>
> Anyhow, I am curious about what type of fiberglass cloth and resin
> system they use that could withstand the temperatures under the
> cowling. Does anyone have any idea ?
>
>=====================
>
========================>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | High temperature fiberglass |
No, forty-five.<html><div></div>
From: pete@lawless.infoTo: europa-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: Europa-Lis
t: High temperature fiberglassDate: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 08:18:34 +0000
Karl do you mean 4.5 degrees C above OAT?
-----Original Message-----From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mai
lto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl HeindlSent: 0
9 March 2008 02:55To: europa-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: Europa-List: Hi
gh temperature fiberglass
Paul, I wouldn't know the answers to those questions. Most 912S's have th
at shroud. I once checked the temperature under the shroud and found it onl
y to be about 45C above oat. I was hoping to tap into that for cabin heat,
but it wasn't hot enough, at least not near the front of the engine. Of cou
rse the under cowling temperatures rise dramatically after engine shutdown.
Karl <html><div></div>> Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:05:11 -0600> From:
paul.the.aviator@gmail.com> To: europa-list@matronics.com> Subject: Europa-
ul McAllister" <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>> > Hi all,> > I was looking at
a Rotax installation in a Diamond Kintana the other> day and I noticed that
they have manufactured a fiberglass plenum air> duct to drive the airflow
over the cylinder heads and downwards.> > Anyhow, I am curious about what t
ype of fiberglass cloth and resin> system they use that could withstand the
temperatures under the> cowling. Does anyone have any idea ?> >===
===================> =====
===================> > > http://www
.matronics.com/contribution -- This message has been scanned for viruses an
d dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.
Message 5
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| Subject: | High temperature fiberglass |
I recall seeing a note by Bob Berube, saying that he throws away these shro
uds, claiming that they are useless. I am not sure
I agree, so long as the air is directed into it, as with the Europa FWF kit
.
Karl<html><div></div>
From: ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.ukTo: europa-list@matronics.comSubject: Re
: Europa-List: High temperature fiberglassDate: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 10:30:46 +0
000
Aside from the exhausts, the hottest external part of a 912 is the cylinder
s (walls, not head), which are allowed a maximum temp of 190C.
There are a number of high temp epoxies available. Cheap and widely obtaina
ble is the Borden Chemical range, which has a Tg of 150C (following post cu
re).
I suspect that the epoxy in the Rotax hood is loaded with fire retardant (p
robably Antimony Trioxide), hence its opaque white colour. I've not otherwi
se found a high temp resin that is fire retardant, or a fire retardant epox
y (there are lots in use for marine applications, to keep the insurance com
panies happy) that has other than a low Tg. Still doesn't explain the extra
ordinary high cost of the Rotax cylinder hood.
Duncan McF.
> Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:05:11 -0600> From: paul.the.aviator@gmail.com> T
o: europa-list@matronics.com> Subject: Europa-List: High temperature fiberg
tor@gmail.com>> > Hi all,> > I was looking at a Rotax installation in a Dia
mond Kintana the other> day and I noticed that they have manufactured a fib
erglass plenum air> duct to drive the airflow over the cylinder heads and d
ownwards.> > Anyhow, I am curious about what type of fiberglass cloth and r
esin> system they use that could withstand the temperatures under the> cowl
ing. Does anyone have any idea ?> >=============
=========> ===============
=========> > >
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Stall warner |
Peter, I wouldn't bother. The stall warner is loud enough for even a
relatively deaf 70 year old to hear without problem, when fitted inside the
pilot's head rest. Regards, David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Field" <Peter.Field@hgfield.co.uk>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 9:55 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Stall warner
<Peter.Field@hgfield.co.uk>
>
> Do any of you technical guys know how to wire the standard factory
> supplied stall warner into the intercom circuit so that you get an
> audible warning through the headsets as well as the buzzer?
>
>
> Peter Field,
> G-CHOX
> Conversion training in progress.
>
>
Message 7
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Hi,
I'm about to start sticking stuff !
I need to de-grease the parts first. I've had a look round at various data sheets
and note that Acetone is pretty much the best option. I do have a source
for this but has anybody in the UK used any proprietary de-greasing agents and
if so, what?
Thanks,
Phil
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 8
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If Acetone doesn't do the job, I'm in deep caca...
Fred
A194
do not archive
On Sunday, Mar 9, 2008, at 08:16 US/Pacific, flyingphil2 wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm about to start sticking stuff !
>
> I need to de-grease the parts first. I've had a look round at various
> data sheets and note that Acetone is pretty much the best option. I
> do have a source for this but has anybody in the UK used any
> proprietary de-greasing agents and if so, what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
Message 9
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Phil,
I found that household cleansers, such as "Comet" worked best,
depends a bit on the parts in question and how contaminated they are,
needs to be well rinsed.
Acetone seemed to evaporate too quickly, and spread the grease around.
Auto body shops sell water soluble cleaners, these work well.
Before bonding, take a water spray bottle and spray on the surfaces.
If clean the water will lie flat,
if dirty, the water will bead.
Dave A061
On 9-Mar-08, at 11:16 AM, flyingphil2 wrote:
> <ptiller@lolacars.com>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm about to start sticking stuff !
>
> I need to de-grease the parts first. I've had a look round at
> various data sheets and note that Acetone is pretty much the best
> option. I do have a source for this but has anybody in the UK used
> any proprietary de-greasing agents and if so, what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Mod to pilot |
Bob, You seem to have jumped in with your usual assumption that anything
coming out of Europe must be bad news! Actually on the face of it this has
absolutely nothing to do with Europe , being promulgated by ICAO, but also
seems to be an entirely good thing. Without it and it's precursor documents
we would no doubt be required to be fluent in at least 6 languages to do
one of our traditional European trips, and I can think of a number who
wouldn't have got too far! (quite apart from having to carry 6 different
currencies)
Warm regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 10:00 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod to pilot
<ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
>
> The indigenous population has to bow to beaurocracy out of Europe again!
> How do our colonies over the Atlantic see this ?
> Bob H G-PTAG
> Do not archive.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan &
> Ami McFadyean
> Sent: 05 March 2008 21:23
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Mod to pilot
>
> <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> So, we have to do one of these:
> http://www.caa.co.uk/docs/33/SRG1199.pdf
> before we're allowed to make international flights again?
>
> Duncan McF.
> do not archive
>
>
> --
> 04/03/2008 21:46
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: High temperature fiberglass |
> Anyhow, I am curious about what type of fiberglass cloth and resin
> system they use that could withstand the temperatures under the
> cowling. Does anyone have any idea ?
Hello Paul,
Standard E-glass BID and EZ Poxy have been successfully used to build
cooling plenums for pushers/canards (Long EZ, Varieze, etc.). Google
"downdraft cooling eze" for some details. You'll need to post cure
the plenums in order to elevate the temps at which the resin goes
"soft", so any resin system that benefits from a post cure should
suffice.
Folks have also impregnated 2 or 3 plies of BID cloth directly with
RTV to make their plenums. Sounds strange and messy, but it works.
Put down a piece of plastic drop cloth, add 1 ply of BID (cut to
shape), squirt on some RTV, add another piece of drop cloth, and use a
rolling pin to squish the RTV through the BID. Build it up to 3 plies
and, before it cures, pull off one side of drop cloth and stick the
exposed RTV directly onto your cylinder fins and mold the 3-ply sheet
to shape.
D
Message 12
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Phil, Roger Targett, my inspector and a professional repairer of gliders and
other forms of plane uses and advises acetone.
Regards, David Joyce,
G-XSDJ (still flying 6 yrs after exclusive use of acetone
for degreasing!)
>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I'm about to start sticking stuff !
> >
> > I need to de-grease the parts first. I've had a look round at various
> > data sheets and note that Acetone is pretty much the best option. I
> > do have a source for this but has anybody in the UK used any
> > proprietary de-greasing agents and if so, what?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Phil
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
> believed to be clean.
>
>
Message 13
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Phil,
Like painting, fiber-glassing is all about the prep.
If you wash the entire kit in an automotive water soluble
cleaner/degreaser or suitable detergent with a scotch brite pad and
rinse thoroughly, it should be clean. Like others though, I still clean
all my joints in acetone, using a scotch brite pad as cleanliness is
next to Godliness.
Test your prep by sanding with 40-80 grit, and if you get lots of dust,
you're ready to go.
The bagging of the parts during molding leaves little ridges. I
personally try to sand off the ridges to get to smooth epoxy, but not in
the glass fibers underneath. The skins and parts really fit well that
way. I hate to see the number of guys who just scuff and go, as that is
a really bad technique.
Please prep properly and it goes together like a model plane.
Bud Yerly,
Custom Flight Creations
----- Original Message -----
From: flyingphil2<mailto:ptiller@lolacars.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 12:16 PM
Subject: Europa-List: De-greaser
<ptiller@lolacars.com<mailto:ptiller@lolacars.com>>
Hi,
I'm about to start sticking stuff !
I need to de-grease the parts first. I've had a look round at various
data sheets and note that Acetone is pretty much the best option. I do
have a source for this but has anybody in the UK used any proprietary
de-greasing agents and if so, what?
Thanks,
Phil
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org<http://www.europaowners.org/>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: High temperature fiberglass |
Hello All,
I too have been contemplating making these plenums as I'm still
struggling with keeping the back cylinder temps down. Today with some
engine static test I had the back # 3 cylinder temp at 260 to 265 F.
Not a problem at the current 60 F outside but I know the hot Florida
temps at Sun-N-Fun could again push the limit for me. Last year during
climb out there, and during our Tennessee heat wave they were a
problem. Lower climbs we're necessary. After many attempts trying every
suggestion talked about on this forum and elsewhere. My back CHT's are
still too high and when it's cold they are too un even from the fronts
as well.
My friend Steve Wright of the Stagger EZ fame told me that a plenum
would be the only way to get the heads running at an even and at cooler
temperatures. He made his with the RTV mentioned below. Unless I have
any other suggestions it looks like the plenum may be the way to go.
Can these be bought or is there anyone out there that has discarded
there's. If not I'll be making some as well.
Your thought are very welcome here.
Regards,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 105 hours and climbing slowly.
On Mar 9, 2008, at 11:56 AM, D Wysong wrote:
>
>> Anyhow, I am curious about what type of fiberglass cloth and resin
>> system they use that could withstand the temperatures under the
>> cowling. Does anyone have any idea ?
>
> Hello Paul,
>
> Standard E-glass BID and EZ Poxy have been successfully used to build
> cooling plenums for pushers/canards (Long EZ, Varieze, etc.). Google
> "downdraft cooling eze" for some details. You'll need to post cure
> the plenums in order to elevate the temps at which the resin goes
> "soft", so any resin system that benefits from a post cure should
> suffice.
>
> Folks have also impregnated 2 or 3 plies of BID cloth directly with
> RTV to make their plenums. Sounds strange and messy, but it works.
> Put down a piece of plastic drop cloth, add 1 ply of BID (cut to
> shape), squirt on some RTV, add another piece of drop cloth, and use a
> rolling pin to squish the RTV through the BID. Build it up to 3 plies
> and, before it cures, pull off one side of drop cloth and stick the
> exposed RTV directly onto your cylinder fins and mold the 3-ply sheet
> to shape.
>
> D
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: High temperature fiberglass |
Hi all,
Well I got an overwhelming response to my question about high
temperature resins and cloth, so perhaps I need to come clean as to
what I am thinking about.
As some of you know I purchased a second 914 minus its exhaust and
turbo charger and as a winter time project I have been rebuilding it
with the thought to fuel inject it.
Well I am at the point where I am about to assemble the engine and I
am thinking about how I was going to make an inlet manifold from the
throttle body. My initial thought was to fabricate one out of
aluminum like the one in the attached photograph.I then got to
thinking that perhaps I can make something that has a nicer airflow
out of blue foam and fiberglass.
As far as the project goes, it is very much a spare time project with
no particular time line. It is truly experimentation and my never
actually get fitted to my aircraft.
So, essentially I am looking for a recommendation of an epoxy resin
that will be okay with the temperatures seen under the cowl.
Cheers, Paul
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: High temperature fiberglass |
Hi! Jeff/all
These items are called "Barrel hoods" and are available as a Rotax
Option in the region of GBP 200.!
No doubt the plug around which to make these was a very demanding
process and requires a tight dimensional tolerance.
However with the benefit of one it would be easy to make a "splash" and
copy it.
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JEFF
ROBERTS
Sent: 09 March 2008 21:38
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: High temperature fiberglass
Hello All,
I too have been contemplating making these plenums as I'm still
struggling with keeping the back cylinder temps down. Today with some
engine static test I had the back # 3 cylinder temp at 260 to 265 F.
Not a problem at the current 60 F outside but I know the hot Florida
temps at Sun-N-Fun could again push the limit for me. Last year during
climb out there, and during our Tennessee heat wave they were a
problem. Lower climbs we're necessary. After many attempts trying every
suggestion talked about on this forum and elsewhere. My back CHT's are
still too high and when it's cold they are too un even from the fronts
as well.
My friend Steve Wright of the Stagger EZ fame told me that a plenum
would be the only way to get the heads running at an even and at cooler
temperatures. He made his with the RTV mentioned below. Unless I have
any other suggestions it looks like the plenum may be the way to go.
Can these be bought or is there anyone out there that has discarded
there's. If not I'll be making some as well.
Your thought are very welcome here.
Regards,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 105 hours and climbing slowly.
On Mar 9, 2008, at 11:56 AM, D Wysong wrote:
>
>> Anyhow, I am curious about what type of fiberglass cloth and resin
>> system they use that could withstand the temperatures under the
>> cowling. Does anyone have any idea ?
>
> Hello Paul,
>
> Standard E-glass BID and EZ Poxy have been successfully used to build
> cooling plenums for pushers/canards (Long EZ, Varieze, etc.). Google
> "downdraft cooling eze" for some details. You'll need to post cure
> the plenums in order to elevate the temps at which the resin goes
> "soft", so any resin system that benefits from a post cure should
> suffice.
>
> Folks have also impregnated 2 or 3 plies of BID cloth directly with
> RTV to make their plenums. Sounds strange and messy, but it works.
> Put down a piece of plastic drop cloth, add 1 ply of BID (cut to
> shape), squirt on some RTV, add another piece of drop cloth, and use a
> rolling pin to squish the RTV through the BID. Build it up to 3 plies
> and, before it cures, pull off one side of drop cloth and stick the
> exposed RTV directly onto your cylinder fins and mold the 3-ply sheet
> to shape.
>
> D
>
>
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Checked by AVG.
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Message 17
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Rob-
Would it be possible for you to attach a couple of photos of the finished project?
I think I follow what you are saying but "a picture is......"
Thanks -
Jim Puglise, A-283
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Rob Neils" <Rob@Neils.US>
I've got 178 trouble-free hours on my Europa tri-gear motorglider. I constructed
a unique "egg" solution to the bowing of the canopies. No extra latch or moving
parts are needed.
Europa egg door latch.
Ive installed a wooden egg to prevent the cabin doors from bulging in flight. A
wooden egg is trimmed and afixed to each door so that as the door closes the
pointy end of the egg inserts into a circular hole in the fuselage. The shape
of the egg draws the door to an exact fit with the fuselage and holds it there
securely.
Heres how.
Buy a wooden egg at your wifes favorite craft store and while youre there get some
modeling clay too if you dont have some alread. It takes a chunk about the
size of your fingers tightly squeezed. A glue gun might be the third purchase.
Theyre inexpensive and really helpful in all kinds of tasks around the shop.
Hot glue sets much faster than 5-minute epoxy so its really great for holding
things in place.
Drill a hole into the fuselage at the center, half way between the shoot bolts
that hold the door closed and centered on the fuselage lip. The width of the
hole is determined by how far you want the egg to drop into the hole. I used
~ 1circumnference so the hole squeezes the egg about a third of the way up it.
To determine what to cut away from the egg to shape it into a plunger put the egg
pointy side down into the hole youve cut. Warm up some modeling clay and squeeze
it around the implanted egg. Pull, twist and cajole the egg out of the
clay. Close the door tightly on the eggless clay. This presses the clay and
defines the space you have between the fuselage and the door. When you open
the door the eggs hole has been squished back into where the egg used to be,
partially filling the hole. Being an artist, razor out the hole in the clay so
you can place the eggs pointy end back into the clay. Push the egg back into
the clay. With a marking pen draw a line around the outer half to three quarters
of the egg where the clay contacts it. Take the egg out again and close
the door. Look down through the window and note on the clay where the egg should
not be trimmed so that it will be flush with the inside of the door for added
adhesion contact. Open the door, push an ind
ent in
to the clay where the egg should not be trimmed. Put the egg into the clay, mark
the eggs forward and rear side where you made the indentation into the clay.
Take the egg out and freehand a verticle arch on the egg giving you a cut line.
I used a belt sander to trim the egg to gross fit. Just hold it against the front
of the belt sander as the sander is held upside down in a vise. The cylindrical
front of a belt sander grinds away most of the wooden egg you dont want.
To fine-trim the egg hot glue it into the hole in the fuselage. Use a dremel
a wood file and some disclosing paper to shape the egg exactly to the contour
of the door. Close the door gently on the egg while you hold the disclosing
paper in the gap between the egg and the door. Pull the disclosing paper slowly
out thereby leaving a mark on the gg where you need to grind it back. Grind
away where the disclosing paper shows the egg contour is high. When you
have the egg contoured enough to completely close the door feel the bottom of
the door to be sure it is flush with the fuselage. If its not, then use a couple
of studs, wooden studs - not masculine buffons, and some carpenters wooden
door wedges to squeeze the fuselage-door planes t
o prop
er fit.
If your egg is still hotglued to the fuselage twist it out leaving the remaining
hotglue on the surface of the egg so it can be reinserted into the fuselage
correctly. When youre satisfied with how everything goes together, mix up the
smallest accurate batch of Epibond 420 to afix the eggs to the doors. It doesnt
take much at all. Add a little cotton fiber to make some stiff flox. Paint
some Epibond onto the carved out egg and onto the area on the door where the
egg will be afixed. Smear some vasolene wherever the Epibond could foul up
this whole project! Put the egg into the fuselage hole, smear on some flox and
close the door. Leave it to dry completely.
Open the door. Use some more Epibond and Bid to secure the egg onto the door.
I didnt glass up the fuselage hole to make an egg-holding cup. I dont think
its necessary and besides itd add weight.
The egg solution weighs ounces, has no moving parts and works like a charm. Who
could ask for anything more?
<html><body>
<DIV>Rob-</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Would it be possible for you to attach a couple of photos of the finished
project? I think I follow what you are saying but "a picture is......"</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks -</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Jim Puglise, A-283</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Rob Neils"
<Rob@Neils.US> <BR>
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16609" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
<DIV><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2><STRONG>I've got 178
trouble-free hours on my Europa tri-gear motorglider. I constructed
a unique "egg" solution to the bowing of the canopies. No extra latch or moving
parts are needed. </STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2> </DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Europa
egg door latch.</FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns =
"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Ive
installed a wooden egg to prevent the cabin doors from bulging in flight. A wooden
egg is trimmed and afixed to each door so that as the door closes the pointy
end of the egg inserts into a circular hole in the fuselage.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>The shape of the egg draws the door to an exact
fit with the fuselage and holds it there securely.</FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Heres
how.</FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Buy
a wooden egg at your wifes favorite craft store and while youre there get some
modeling clay too if you dont have some alread.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>It takes a chunk about the size of your fingers tightly squeezed.
A glue gun might be the third purchase.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>Theyre inexpensive and really helpful in all kinds of tasks around
the shop.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Hot glue sets much faster
than 5-minute epoxy so its really great for holding things in place.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Drill
a hole into the fuselage at the center, half way between the shoot bolts that
hold the door closed and centered on the fuselage lip.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>The width of the hole is determined by how far you want
the egg to drop into the hole.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>I
used ~ 1circumnference so the hole squeezes the egg about a third of the way
up it.</FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">To
determine what to cut away from the egg to shape it into a plunger put the egg
pointy side down into the hole youve cut.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>Warm up some modeling clay and squeeze it around the implanted egg.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Pull, twist and cajole the egg out
of the clay.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Close the door tightly
on the eggless clay.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>This presses
the clay and defines<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>the space
you have between the fuselage and the door.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>When you open the door the eggs hole has been squished back into
where the egg used to be, partially filling the hole.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>Being an artist, razor out the hole in the clay so you
can place the eggs pointy end back into the clay.<
SPAN s
tyle="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Push the egg back into the clay.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>With a marking pen draw a line around the
outer half to three quarters of the egg where the clay contacts it.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>Take the egg out again and close the door.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Look down through the window and
note on the clay where the egg should not be trimmed so that it will be flush
with the inside of the door for added adhesion contact.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>Open the door, push an indent into the clay where the
egg should not be trimmed.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Put the
egg into the clay, mark the eggs forward and rear side where you made the indentation
into the clay.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Take the
egg out and freehand a verticle arch on the egg giving you a cut line.</FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">I used
a belt sander to trim the egg to gross fit.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>Just hold it against the front of the belt sander as the sander
is held upside down in a vise.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>The
cylindrical front of a belt sander grinds away most of<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>the wooden egg you dont want.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>To fine-trim the egg hot glue it into the hole in the fuselage.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Use a dremel a wood file
and some disclosing paper to shape the egg exactly to the contour of the door.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Close the door gently on the egg
while you hold the disclosing paper in the gap between the egg and the door.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Pull the disclosing paper slowly
out thereby leaving a mark on the gg where you need
to gri
nd it back.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Grind away where the disclosing
paper shows the egg contour is high.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>When you have the egg contoured enough to completely close the door
feel the bottom of the door to be sure it is flush with the fuselage.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>If its not, then use a couple of studs,
wooden studs - not masculine buffons, and some carpenters wooden door wedges
to squeeze the fuselage-door planes to proper fit.</FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">If
your egg is still hotglued to the fuselage twist it out leaving the remaining
hotglue on the surface of the egg so it can be reinserted into the fuselage correctly.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>When youre satisfied with
how everything goes together, mix up the smallest accurate batch of Epibond
420 to afix the eggs to the doors.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>It
doesnt take much at all.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Add
a little cotton fiber to make some stiff flox.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>Paint some Epibond onto the carved out egg and onto the area on
the door where the egg will be afixed.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>Smear some vasolene wherever the Epibond could foul up this whole project!<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Put the egg into the fuselage
hole, smear on some flox and close the door.<SPAN
style
"mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Leave it to dry completely.</FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Open
the door.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Use some more Epibond
and Bid to secure the egg onto the door.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>I didnt glass up the fuselage hole to make an egg-holding cup.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>I dont think its necessary and besides
itd add weight.</FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">The
egg solution weighs ounces, has no moving parts and works like a charm.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Who could ask for anything more?<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></FONT></P></FONT>
<DIV><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2></FONT></B> </DIV>
<DIV><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2> </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV></B></FONT><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" size=2 color000000?>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
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