Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:45 AM - Exhaust Flange Crack (rampil)
2. 05:52 AM - CHTs everywhere (rampil)
3. 07:00 AM - Re: AZ Europa Owners (Al Stills)
4. 08:59 AM - Re: Spacer for Wing Top (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
5. 10:33 AM - Re: CHTs everywhere (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
6. 01:06 PM - Re: CHTs everywhere (rampil)
7. 06:28 PM - Exhaust Pipe Crack (Paul Boulet)
8. 06:37 PM - Re: Spacer for Wing Top (Keith Hickling)
Message 1
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Subject: | Exhaust Flange Crack |
Last week while flight I had an separation of the machined flange
from the down pipe for cylinder #1, (Europa p/n exo-34b).
It was manifest by a burning smell in the cockpit and a loud unusual
engine noise but no loss in power or change in engine parameters.
I had it rewelded by the local TIG shop.
Has this happened to anyone else.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175678#175678
Message 2
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I finally completed my cylinder head temp monitoring system so now
I have 3 sites of measurement: Regular Rotax VDO probes into
the heads of Cylinders 2, 3 going to an analog gauge;
Ring-type CHTs installed under the Rotax CHT probes and monitored by
my Blue Mountain EFIS, and finally the Lockwood/Rotax coolant temp
probe with a Blue Mountain probe going into the EFIS.
So far, I have only done cowl-off, static testing but the results are
interesting:
The coolant temp at 4000 rpm is 20F higher than the Rotax/VDO
which is about 20F higher than the ring probes outside the block.
These will probably change when cowled and at cruise and climb which
I plan to test when I return from SnF.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175679#175679
Message 3
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Subject: | AZ Europa Owners |
Jim
I have a completed tri-gear in Phoenix, would be happy to show to your
friend if we can get together. Have him call me at 623-878-6983
Al Stills
N625AZ
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimpuglise@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 3:52 PM
Subject: Europa-List: AZ Europa Owners
I have a friend in Phoenix that would like to see a completed Europa. I
know there are a couple there. Can you e-mail me details?
Thanks -
Jim Puglise A-283, Punta Gorda, FL
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Spacer for Wing Top |
Mike-
I have the identical setup that you do and just did my skins last week. If you
look in the build manual, it seems to say that you don't use the pacers under
the ailerons. I didn't and I will need to trim more skin than I want to to get
the required up aileron. If I was going to do it again, I'd probably use the
spacers under both aileron and flaps. To attach the spacers, we cut several
pieces of packating tape, used a yellow hilighter to draw the line on the flaps,
dropped the flaps, I then held each depressor in place while my wife put
the tape across it to hold it in place. When they were all on, we ran a couple
of thicknesses of packtaging tape the length of the flap to hold the spacers
in place.
Gotchas: Don't forget to drill the hole for pressure relief in the last rib on
the outboard end. Also, it does not mention it in the manual but I notice that
there is a triangular shaped area on the inboard end of the wing that will
also be sealed. It is rather small, so may not be a problem, but I'd probably
want to put a hole in that rib too for pressure relief. Make sure the MW-4 rod
ends are installed on the aileron bellcrank before closing and have at least
two other people confirm that you have not left any tools in the wing before
closing. You may also want to mix the Araldite a little thicker than usual so
it will "stick to your ribs" (bad pun). Last, don't forget to scuff sand both
surfaces well. We just used bricks for weights and it all went fine.
Let us know how it goes.
Jim Puglise A-283
-------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good day All,
I have a quick question.......would those people that have already bonded their
top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual using stir sticks as
a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their thickness the right amount? If
I remember correctly, my stir sticks measure about .070" thick.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
<html><body>
<DIV>Mike-</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I have the identical setup that you do and just did my skins last week.
If you look in the build manual, it seems to say that you don't use the pacers
under the ailerons. I didn't and I will need to trim more skin than
I want to to get the required up aileron. If I was going to do it again,
I'd probably use the spacers under both aileron and flaps. To attach the
spacers, we cut several pieces of packating tape, used a yellow hilighter to
draw the line on the flaps, dropped the flaps, I then held each depressor in
place while my wife put the tape across it to hold it in place. When they
were all on, we ran a couple of thicknesses of packtaging tape the length of
the flap to hold the spacers in place.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Gotchas: Don't forget to drill the hole for pressure relief in
the last rib on the outboard end. Also, it does not mention it in the manual
but I notice that there is a triangular shaped area on the inboard end
of the wing that will also be sealed. It is rather small, so may
not be a problem, but I'd probably want to put a hole in that rib too for
pressure relief. Make sure the MW-4 rod ends are installed on the
aileron bellcrank before closing and have at least two other people confirm that
you have not left any tools in the wing before closing. You may also
want to mix the Araldite a little thicker than usual so it will "stick to
your ribs" (bad pun). Last, don't forget to scuff sand both surfaces well.
We just used bricks for weights and it all went fine. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Let us know how it goes. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Jim Puglise A-283</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: DuaneFamly@aol.com
<BR>
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3268" name=GENERATOR><FONT id=role_document face=Arial
color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>Good day All,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I have a quick question.......would those people that have already bonded
their top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual using stir sticks
as a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their thickness the right amount?
If I remember correctly, my stir sticks measure about .070" thick.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks in advance.
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 face=Arial size=2 PTSIZE="10" FAMILY="SANSSERIF">Mike Duane A207A<BR>Redding,
California<BR>XS Conventional Gear<BR>Jabiru 3300 <BR>Sensenich
R64Z N<BR>Ground Adjustable Prop</FONT></DIV></DIV></FONT><BR><BR><BR>
<DIV><FONT style="FONT: 10pt ARIAL, SAN-SERIF; COLOR: black">
<HR style="MARGIN-TOP: 10px">
Planning your summer road trip? Check out <A title=http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016 href="http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016" target=_blank>AOL Travel Guides</A>.</FONT></DIV><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" size=2 color000000?>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: CHTs everywhere |
Ira,
>- - - - - - - the Rotax/VDO
> which is about 20F higher than the ring probes outside the block.
I do not have the Rotax/VDO probes into the block, only ring probes fitted
with a bolt into the original probe holes. I found that the ring probes in
flight were cooled considerably by the air flowing in under the cowling. I
smeared a generous amount of heat resistant (red) Loctite silicone sealant
all around the area. This appears to have effectively insulated the rign
probes from direct air cooling.
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: CHTs everywhere |
Hi Svein!
I suspect the same!. After I get back from Lakeland, I will try to rig
some sort of insulating surround for the probes. A little fire-stop
caulk or hi-temp silicone may be just the ticket as you have done.
I'll let you know.
Cheers!
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175758#175758
Message 7
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Subject: | Exhaust Pipe Crack |
Hi All;
I have a cracked exhaust pipe. Re welded it once already (engine only has 25 hours
on it) and mechanic says he don't wanna weld it again hence, replacement
time.
Any idea if these are available in the states? Appreciate any help
Paul Boulet, N914PB, XS Tri Gear with 914 engine
Malibu, CA
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Spacer for Wing Top |
Mike,
Neville Eyre recommends using strips floor linoleum or vinyl under the
flaps and ailerons - I found that easier than the mixing sticks to
manipulate. And having done it relatively recently, I agree that you do
need the spacer under the ailerons too or you won't get enough
clearance.
Keith Hickling,
New Zealand.
----- Original Message -----
From: jimpuglise@comcast.net
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2008 3:56 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Spacer for Wing Top
Mike-
I have the identical setup that you do and just did my skins last
week. If you look in the build manual, it seems to say that you don't
use the pacers under the ailerons. I didn't and I will need to trim
more skin than I want to to get the required up aileron. If I was going
to do it again, I'd probably use the spacers under both aileron and
flaps. To attach the spacers, we cut several pieces of packating tape,
used a yellow hilighter to draw the line on the flaps, dropped the
flaps, I then held each depressor in place while my wife put the tape
across it to hold it in place. When they were all on, we ran a couple
of thicknesses of packtaging tape the length of the flap to hold the
spacers in place.
Gotchas: Don't forget to drill the hole for pressure relief in the
last rib on the outboard end. Also, it does not mention it in the
manual but I notice that there is a triangular shaped area on the
inboard end of the wing that will also be sealed. It is rather small,
so may not be a problem, but I'd probably want to put a hole in that rib
too for pressure relief. Make sure the MW-4 rod ends are installed on
the aileron bellcrank before closing and have at least two other people
confirm that you have not left any tools in the wing before closing.
You may also want to mix the Araldite a little thicker than usual so it
will "stick to your ribs" (bad pun). Last, don't forget to scuff sand
both surfaces well. We just used bricks for weights and it all went
fine.
Let us know how it goes.
Jim Puglise A-283
-------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly@aol.com
Good day All,
I have a quick question.......would those people that have already
bonded their top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual
using stir sticks as a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their
thickness the right amount? If I remember correctly, my stir sticks
measure about .070" thick.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
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