Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:46 AM - Re: CHTs everywhere (Paul Stewart)
2. 05:10 AM - Re: CHTs everywhere (rampil)
3. 09:51 AM - Fuselage/wing fairing/fillet (Fred Klein)
4. 10:10 AM - Re: Fuselage/wing fairing/fillet (Gilles Thesee)
5. 10:38 AM - Re: Fuselage/wing fairing/fillet (Fred Klein)
6. 10:42 AM - is there a local source for exhaust pipes? (Paul Boulet)
7. 03:44 PM - Re: is there a local source for exhaust pipes? (rampil)
8. 05:09 PM - Re: Fuselage/wing fairing/fillet (Graham Singleton)
9. 05:14 PM - Hardware Question on Aileron quick-connect system? (Jeffrey J Paris)
10. 06:38 PM - Re: Hardware Question on Aileron quick-connect system? (TIMOTHY PHILIP WARD)
11. 07:19 PM - GRT EIS Conclusion (Martin Tuck)
12. 08:37 PM - Re: Hardware Question on Aileron quick-connect system? (Keith Hickling)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: CHTs everywhere |
Jos
What I think happens is that 12v into the EFIS goes through a DC/DC
converter which isolates it from a/c ground and sets its own internal
reference (this was how it was explained to me by Jim Butcher).
My comment about the BMA unit was merely that for the less able it is
a complex unit to set up for the Rotax. It's clear from the BMA
discussion board that there are many owners who understand and enjoy
its flexibility (and complexity). When we bought we were not
anticipating having to swap out engine sensors or being unable to use
the Rotax tacho output - we hoped for more of a 'plug and play'.
Still when it flies maybe all will be forgotten.
Regards
Paul
On 10 Apr 2008, at 20:03, josok wrote:
>
> Paul,
> While i don't really want to be knit-picking, i don't quite
> understand why or where the engine ground would differ from
> internal ground. Unless there is a bad connection somewhere in
> between. However unlike thermocouples, there are many different
> characteristics for resistance probes. It may very well be that BMA
> thinks it's too much trouble to cope for Rotax probes in software.
> We'll certainly manage to upset Ira!
>
> Regards,
>
> Jos Okhuijsen
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: CHTs everywhere |
Hi All,
I'm not upset --- I'm at Sun & Fun!
The Engine ground is technically suboptimal as a path for small signals
like the millivolts of a T/C or a small resistance probe 200-240 ohms
because it has a lot of electrical noise on it. For example,
the spark plus return their kilovolt jolt through it, etc. Any tiny resistance
will make very big voltages from the sparks.
The Gen4 Blue Mountains are completely simple to hook up. No more
understanding of electronics is required. You use their probes and it
is set - no cal, no programming, easier than most of the competition.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=176127#176127
Message 3
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| Subject: | Fuselage/wing fairing/fillet |
Gentlemen,
While trial fitting the wings and setting the angle of incidence, I
took some time to mock up an enhancement of the fairing in hopes of
reducing interference drag. The gist is to start w/ the radius of the
standard fairing just forward of the spar and extend the tangent point
aft along the fuselage waterline until abeam of the flap trailing edge.
My intention is to cut the supplied fairing just forward of the spar
and increase the radius aft as shown in the pixs. I plan to have a
lapped joint at the trailing edge of the wing (not the flap) and secure
the new fairing aft of the wing to the fuselage, overlapping the flap;
the fairing forward of the trailing edge of the wing would be glassed
to the wing in the normal manner.
I anticipate placing the rear pip pin w/ the use of a modified set of
needle-nosed pliers thru the standard hole.
I have not resolved the issue of trailering as the projection from the
fuselage will create a conflict when the wings are stored alongside,
though I am hopeful that the spar carriers on the trailer can be
relocated to provide clearance and still stay within the overall width
limitation (8 feet) for highway travel.
Might this be: Much ado about nothing?...a promising
development?...beyond the pale?
Thoughtful comments would be appreciated...especially from anyone
qualified to opine about the aerodynamics of such an installation.
thanks, Fred
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage/wing fairing/fillet |
Fred Klein a crit :
> Gentlemen,
>
> While trial fitting the wings and setting the angle of incidence, I
> took some time to mock up an enhancement of the fairing in hopes of
> reducing interference drag. The gist is to start w/ the radius of the
> standard fairing just forward of the spar and extend the tangent point
> aft along the fuselage waterline until abeam of the flap trailing edge.
>
> Might this be: Much ado about nothing?...a promising
> development?...beyond the pale?
Fred,
Nice pictures and mockup.
Reducing interference drag is always worth some thought. Some in flight
data, such as tuft tests prior to any modification might prove valuable.
Also, if drag is in consideration, cooling drag is an area where the
Europa could really benefit.
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage/wing fairing/fillet |
Thanks Gilles...I quite agree w/ you regarding cooling drag...of course, that's
a topic for another time, but I hope to deal with it.
If I go ahead w/ an all-liquid-cooled engine (perhaps this new 1.6 L Gemini 125
turbo diesel), my intention is to borrow Alex Bowman's cowl molds (see matronics-photoshare)
which I believe have a very efficient and clean cooling set up.
Fred
PS: But I DO want to get in the air sometime soon!
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 6
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| Subject: | is there a local source for exhaust pipes? |
Hi All;
My poor 914!!! It only has 25 hours on it and the exhaust pipe is cracked....
welded it once already but to no avail. The muffler is cracked where the exit
pipe exits the muffler. My welder had originally welded the old cracks and then
added 4 gussets to eliminate exit pipe vibration. Obviously, that didn't work
out. His thoughts were that the stainless used for the muffler was too thin,
and if he welded it again it would only be a band aid.
Is this a rotax part and did they put out a service bulletin on it? Anyone know
where I might be able to buy one in the states? As for the type of rod and
type of weld, I can tell you that it was TIG welded using stainless rod. Not
sure about the type of weld (ie. subsiding reverse Y). Hope this all helps anyone
else having same problem.
Appreciate any help in finding a replacement,
Paul Boulet, Malibu, CA
N914PB
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: is there a local source for exhaust pipes? |
Unlike the 912s the 914 uses a specific Rotax set of parts.
California Power Systems in the Bay Area is the biggest Rotax Dealer/
Supplier on the West Coast(as you probably know).
They should be able to help you out.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=176266#176266
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage/wing fairing/fillet |
Fred
looks good to me, have a look at the fillet I did 10 years ago, not
perfect and I think yours will be better.
Ted Gladstone claims 4 kts I think.
Just remember the wing root flexes up and down a couple or three mm. so
the fairing must be flexible. Not a problem
Graham
Fred Klein wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> While trial fitting the wings and setting the angle of incidence, I took
> some time to mock up an enhancement of the fairing in hopes of reducing
> interference drag. The gist is to start w/ the radius of the standard
> fairing just forward of the spar and extend the tangent point aft along
> the fuselage waterline until abeam of the flap trailing edge.
>
> thanks, Fred
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Hardware Question on Aileron quick-connect system? |
Dear Listers of Europa,
As you may or may not know I bought Classic Monowheel Kit #A012 from a prior builder
who did not get very far, we have 563 hours into the build and are loving
every minute of the challenge.
Currently, we are working on mounting W16(S) quick connect bellcrank to the starboard
wing. Per instructions, we drilled the .25"d hole. We then countersunk
with a .75" spade cutter on the front face of the spar to a 5mm depth.
No here are where things go weird, the directions verbatim:
"Slide an AN4-20A bolt, with a EUR001 washer on it, through the hole in the starboard
spar from the front so that the head of the bolt enters the counter bore.
Place 2 EU001 washers, the W16S (S) bellcrank, another EUR001 washer and finally
screw on the MS210042-4 Nut. Finally fill the hole with flox."
OK seems easy enough, except the AN bolt is too short to meet the practices standard
of having 2-5 thread lengths showing above the nut. By my measurements
I'm about 5mm too short. In addition, the AN4-20A bolt I was supplied with
is actually a AN4-20 bolt with a cotter pin hole. Also, by putting a washer on
the head of the bolt first off it also makes the head of the bolt stick up out
of our 5mm counter bore, do you even need that one since it's going to be floxed
into place anyway?
Well it got us thinking are we interpreting the instructions wrong, or maybe
we are following thing correctly and maybe there is an error in the manual. Moreover,
in the exploded views for these mechanisms there are no particular call
outs of the parts to double check.
I guess our main problem we buying an orphaned kit is the fact that our prior builder
tended to further "kit" and reassemble parts for future assembly ( plus
a fair amount of jumping around), so as you can guess we spend a fair amount
of time re-organizing and double checking our work in an attempt to keep our
project on track: Especially in keeping up with the MODS.
If anybody has a quick answer please let me know. Thank you for your time, consideration
and expertise.
Sincerely,
Jeff and Peter Paris Kit # A012 Monowheel classic
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Hardware Question on Aileron quick-connect system? |
Hi Jeff,
If my memory serves me correct, you need to
countersink the bolt further to give you the required
thread exposure after the nut has been tightened.
Otherwise a longer AN bolt.
Cheers,
Tim
--- Jeffrey J Paris <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com>
wrote:
> <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dear Listers of Europa,
>
> As you may or may not know I bought Classic
> Monowheel Kit #A012 from a prior builder who did not
> get very far, we have 563 hours into the build and
> are loving every minute of the challenge.
>
> Currently, we are working on mounting W16(S) quick
> connect bellcrank to the starboard wing. Per
> instructions, we drilled the .25"d hole. We then
> countersunk with a .75" spade cutter on the front
> face of the spar to a 5mm depth.
>
> No here are where things go weird, the directions
> verbatim:
>
> "Slide an AN4-20A bolt, with a EUR001 washer on it,
> through the hole in the starboard spar from the
> front so that the head of the bolt enters the
> counter bore. Place 2 EU001 washers, the W16S (S)
> bellcrank, another EUR001 washer and finally screw
> on the MS210042-4 Nut. Finally fill the hole with
> flox."
>
> OK seems easy enough, except the AN bolt is too
> short to meet the practices standard of having 2-5
> thread lengths showing above the nut. By my
> measurements I'm about 5mm too short. In addition,
> the AN4-20A bolt I was supplied with is actually a
> AN4-20 bolt with a cotter pin hole. Also, by putting
> a washer on the head of the bolt first off it also
> makes the head of the bolt stick up out of our 5mm
> counter bore, do you even need that one since it's
> going to be floxed into place anyway?
>
> Well it got us thinking are we interpreting the
> instructions wrong, or maybe we are following thing
> correctly and maybe there is an error in the manual.
> Moreover, in the exploded views for these
> mechanisms there are no particular call outs of the
> parts to double check.
>
> I guess our main problem we buying an orphaned kit
> is the fact that our prior builder tended to further
> "kit" and reassemble parts for future assembly (
> plus a fair amount of jumping around), so as you can
> guess we spend a fair amount of time re-organizing
> and double checking our work in an attempt to keep
> our project on track: Especially in keeping up with
> the MODS.
>
> If anybody has a quick answer please let me know.
> Thank you for your time, consideration and
> expertise.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Jeff and Peter Paris Kit # A012 Monowheel classic
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton
Christchurch.
New Zealand
Ph. 64 33515166
MOB 0210640221
ward.t@xtra.co.nz
Message 11
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| Subject: | GRT EIS Conclusion |
Hi Folks,
Thanks to all who offered suggestions as to why my GRT EIS warning lamp
was permanently on and why my CHT2 sensor appeared to be misreading
(always close to ambient).
The problems have been resolved and everything works perfectly now.
The CHT2 problem was just a bad crimp - the wire just falling out when I
pulled on it. Easy fix.
The errant warning was down to the fuel pressure. I contacted GRT and
they said that they didn't know the settings for a Mitchell sender so I
purchased the recommended VDO sender which they sent along with a wiring
diagram. It turns out that there is a 4.8v exciter wire to which you
connect a resistor before connecting to the Aux1 wire. It would have
been nice to have had this info provided with the unit. I struggled to
remove the Mitchell sender from the engine bay only to find the letters
VDO stamped on it underneath the Mitchell label. Arrggh!
I put in the new VDO sender and hooked it all up. I then adjusted the
GRT and 'voila' it all works just fine.
In light of the recent www.rotax-owner.com video, another task I set
myself was to balance the carbs. As recommended I purchased the TwinMax
unit which is really easy to use. As it turns out I was not far off but
did need some adjustment, so now at the full sensitivity setting it
moves slightly from 0 to less than the 1 division to the left as I run
the power up and down which I will call good. I can feel a difference
with the slight vibration I could feel in the cruise completely gone. I
recommend taking the 45 mins or so it took to get everything done.
Regards,
Martin Tuck
Europa N152MT
Wichita, KS
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Hardware Question on Aileron quick-connect system? |
Hello Jeffrey,
1) The current manual recommends not floxing the AN4-20A bolt in at this
stage, as you will probably need to re-align it later at the final setup
stage.
2) My spar (from an XS) is 28 mm thick, and the bellcrank bearing is 18 mm,
so you have 46 mm total - with the 5 mm counterbore that comes down to 41mm.
The length of AN4-20A bolt is 42 mm from under the head to the beginning of
the thread (at least the one I have) , so I would have thought you should
have room for the 3 washers. It worked OK for me. Are you sure it's an
AN4-20 you've got? Is your spar thicker than 28 mm?
3) These bolts need to be cut off just beyond the nut anyway (later) to
leave only 2 threads showing beyond the nut to provide adequate clearance.
So you would be better with an undrilled bolt in case you end up trimming it
through the hole. But if you don't flox it in now, you can easily change it
later if there is a problem. You will be removing the bellcrank several
times during assembly anyway.
Hope some of that may help.
Regards,
Keith Hickling,
New Zealand.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey J Paris" <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 12:11 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Hardware Question on Aileron quick-connect system?
> <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com>
>
>
> Dear Listers of Europa,
>
> As you may or may not know I bought Classic Monowheel Kit #A012 from a
> prior builder who did not get very far, we have 563 hours into the build
> and are loving every minute of the challenge.
>
> Currently, we are working on mounting W16(S) quick connect bellcrank to
> the starboard wing. Per instructions, we drilled the .25"d hole. We then
> countersunk with a .75" spade cutter on the front face of the spar to a
> 5mm depth.
>
> No here are where things go weird, the directions verbatim:
>
> "Slide an AN4-20A bolt, with a EUR001 washer on it, through the hole in
> the starboard spar from the front so that the head of the bolt enters the
> counter bore. Place 2 EU001 washers, the W16S (S) bellcrank, another
> EUR001 washer and finally screw on the MS210042-4 Nut. Finally fill the
> hole with flox."
>
> OK seems easy enough, except the AN bolt is too short to meet the
> practices standard of having 2-5 thread lengths showing above the nut. By
> my measurements I'm about 5mm too short. In addition, the AN4-20A bolt
> I was supplied with is actually a AN4-20 bolt with a cotter pin hole.
> Also, by putting a washer on the head of the bolt first off it also makes
> the head of the bolt stick up out of our 5mm counter bore, do you even
> need that one since it's going to be floxed into place anyway?
>
> Well it got us thinking are we interpreting the instructions wrong, or
> maybe we are following thing correctly and maybe there is an error in the
> manual. Moreover, in the exploded views for these mechanisms there are no
> particular call outs of the parts to double check.
>
> I guess our main problem we buying an orphaned kit is the fact that our
> prior builder tended to further "kit" and reassemble parts for future
> assembly ( plus a fair amount of jumping around), so as you can guess we
> spend a fair amount of time re-organizing and double checking our work in
> an attempt to keep our project on track: Especially in keeping up with
> the MODS.
>
> If anybody has a quick answer please let me know. Thank you for your
> time, consideration and expertise.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Jeff and Peter Paris Kit # A012 Monowheel classic
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
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