Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:34 AM - DOTH Thu. 8th Sherburn-in-Elmet (Paddy Clarke)
2. 01:42 AM - Help with propeller requested (Tim Houlihan)
3. 02:11 AM - Loctiteing tailplanes torque tube (Raimo Toivio)
4. 06:05 AM - Fuel tank - EA2004 (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
5. 07:52 AM - Re : Refueling (Rotax) (John & Paddy Wigney)
6. 08:04 AM - Re: Switch for Hobbs. (Graeme Smith)
7. 11:21 AM - AW: Switch for Hobbs. (Europa (Alfred Buess))
8. 01:03 PM - Re: Tailplane torque tube troubles (Belinda Glover)
9. 01:16 PM - Re: Setting the wing incidence (William Daniell)
10. 02:02 PM - CREDIT CARD SCAM (p-a.austin)
11. 02:02 PM - Re: Setting the wing incidence (William Daniell)
12. 02:15 PM - Re: Setting the wing incidence (Robert C Harrison)
13. 02:36 PM - Re: Setting the wing incidence (William Daniell)
14. 04:16 PM - Re: AW: Switch for Hobbs. (rampil)
15. 04:27 PM - Re: Setting the wing incidence (Graham Singleton)
16. 04:39 PM - Re: Setting the wing incidence (Fred Klein)
17. 04:53 PM - Re: Re: AW: Switch for Hobbs. (craig bastin)
18. 06:11 PM - Door bulge because of seal (craig bastin)
19. 08:04 PM - Re: Door bulge because of seal (Fred Klein)
20. 08:31 PM - Mod 72 reamer (Fred Klein)
21. 08:37 PM - Re: Door bulge because of seal (craig bastin)
22. 09:55 PM - Re: Setting the wing incidence (Robert C Harrison)
Message 1
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| Subject: | DOTH Thu. 8th Sherburn-in-Elmet |
Hi Folks,
It looks as though the fine weather could last 'til tomorrow
(Thursday), so how about a DOTH. I propose Sherburn-in-Elmet, voucher
in Flyer, 1200 ish.
Cheers, Paddy
Paddy Clarke
Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM
Message 2
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| Subject: | Help with propeller requested |
Hi
A friend and fellow Europa builder has asked me to help with a problem he is
having with his propeller.
He has a need for a left hand warp drive prop either a complete propeller or
just the blades to help identify and hopefully resolve his problem.
Can you help ? it has been suggested that the prop used on Subaru version of
the Europa would be suitable. Do you have one not in use that we can borrow,
rent or buy.
Reply either on the forum or to tim@houlihan.flyer.co.uk
Thanks
Tim H
Classic No 10 G-BZTH
Checked by AVG.
17:17
Message 3
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| Subject: | Loctiteing tailplanes torque tube |
This pic you must see!
I loctited [603] today my Europa=B4s tail planes torque tubes to be one
solid tube.
I used a great Belgium made patent by Mr. Dirk van Oyen to do it.
All went well - it was nice to see Loctite 603 coming through!
I have to pack IT because *some* people think it must be a kind of pxxxs
enlargement stuf. Hard to prove this equipment is just and only to make
Europa=B4s more safer to fly.
Raimo
OH-XRT Europa XS Mono #417
The Experimental of The Year 2007
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio@rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
http://mmniemi.aviation.fi/jami_07/europa/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fuel tank - EA2004 |
All,
Talked with Roger at EA2004 today. They are trying to find a solution
for those experiencing cracked tank or extensive bulging, before they
possibly look at replacements for those wishing to install a new tank or
builders who have not installed the tank yet. Too early to tell whether
any solution or new design may emerge, or when.
I mentioned my personal preference, namely that the Europa community
should concentrate on ONE entity looking into these matters, not several
and on both sides of the Atlantic, and this ought to be EA2004. We will
all benefit in many ways also in the future from a continued, strong
operation at EA2004. Without discussing it any further at this early
stage, I encouraged Roger to consider funding of their research/design
work, if necessary, by inviting sponsors who in turn would get a rebate
if purchasing a new tank.
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re : Refueling (Rotax) |
Hi Raimo,
I am sorry to hear that your 912S is unhappy with 100LL. This is a bit
surprising for me as I have always used 100LL from Day 1 with no
problems. First flight was in Dec. 2001 and I now have 590 hours. Only
engine issue in that time has been a broken wire on an ignition system
connector which caused a problem on one magneto.
However, I have always used a fuel additive to prevent lead build up. I
first used TCP http://www.alcorinc.com/fuel-treatment/product-07-07.php
and now use Decalin http://www.decalinchemicals.com/fueladditive.html
additive. I see that TCP has problems with shipping now since the
solvent they use is toxic. TCP and Decalin have the same active
component, Tri Cresyl Phosphate, but Decalin has a benign solvent so it
can be carried in a plane. Decalin can be bought from Aircraft Spruce
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/Decalin.php . I add 15 ml
of Decalin per 10 US gallons of fuel.
This routine seems to work well. I check the plugs at 50 hours and
change them at 100 hours as per Rotax recommendation; they are always in
good condition with no build up of lead. I also use Valvoline Durablend
10W-40 semi-synthetic oil (approved by Rotax). This oil picks up lead in
suspension and I get no deposit of lead sludge in the oil tank.
I also had problems with fuel coming from the breather vent during
filling. I fixed this by installing a larger diameter vent tube which
tees into the filler neck. The larger vent tube permits full flow
filling without backup. A small diameter tube goes from the filler neck
to the original fuselage top vent.
Hope the weather is warming up nicely for you.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S
Mooresville, North Carolina
ORIGINAL MESSAGE
/From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm.fi>
Subject: Europa-List: Refueling (Rotax)
All The Europa Refuelers,
I do not like to use 100LL (w Rotax).
That makes my engine (912S) unhappy, really.
So - if possible - I carry Mogas to the airfield.
That is not fun. I really hate it, to refuel it.
Same time, I do love to pump Cessna by 100LL.
More unfun is to refuel Europa by *normal* way because
- a canister is heavy to keep up
- it takes a long time to refuel even 60 litres = 3 cans
- it is unsafe for refueler=B4s health to be near when refueling
- there is a possibility [because of the contact between can and plane]
to flame and burn whole Europa and maybe your *whole life work*
- when almost full, it tends to come some fuel out from breathing tube
I think most of the problems are out w attached equipment. As you see
there is also for extra safety a real Europa fuel filter (they are extra
for me because I use one piece solid ones). In my case the fuel pump is
a cheap one - only 1,5 litres /minute - but so there is a good time to
check the plane! The power is taken from the `Jump Start` as in the pic
OR from my Europas EPS (External Power Source).
It took only 10 minutes to make this idea to live in Today.
Raimo
OH-XRT Europa XS Mono #417
The Experimental of The Year 2007
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio@rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
http://mmniemi.aviation.fi/jami_07/europa//
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Switch for Hobbs. |
I used a small vacuum switch from Radio Spares connected to the
engine-driven vacuum pump
Graeme Smith
G-CCGW
2008/5/5 Mike Gamble <mp.gamble@tiscali.co.uk>:
> What are chaps using to switch their hobbs timer on with engine start? Is
> there an alternative to the n/o oil pressure switch? - perhaps sensing
> alternator output.
> Thanks
> Mike Gamble
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> --
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by *Houxou* <http://www.houxou.com/>, and is
> believed to be clean.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Switch for Hobbs. |
Mike,
Comco Ikarus ( <http://www.comco-ikarus.de/index_english.html>
http://www.comco-ikarus.de/index_english.html, I have no commercial
relations to them, but can recommend their excellent customer support)
sells
an electronic filter produced by Utz Schicke (producer of the Schicke
GR6
regulator for Rotax engines) which hooks directly to the AC wires of the
alternator. Whenever the alternator is in action (even with the
regulator
shut off), the Hobbs (or an other brand of hour meter) gets DC power and
is
active too. It costs 65 Euros.
Alfred
=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8
=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8
=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8=A8
=A8
=A8=A8=A8
Alfred Buess, CH-3052 Zollikofen, Switzerland
E-Mail: ykibuess@bluewin.ch
Europa XS #097, Monowheel, Foam wing, Rotax 912ULS, Airmaster 332 CS
_____
Von: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] Im Auftrag von Graeme
Smith
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 7. Mai 2008 15:59
An: europa-list@matronics.com
Betreff: Re: Europa-List: Switch for Hobbs.
I used a small vacuum switch from Radio Spares connected to the
engine-driven vacuum pump
Graeme Smith
G-CCGW
2008/5/5 Mike Gamble <mp.gamble@tiscali.co.uk>:
What are chaps using to switch their hobbs timer on with engine start?
Is
there an alternative to the n/o oil pressure switch? - perhaps sensing
alternator output.
Thanks
Mike Gamble
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by <http://www.houxou.com/> Houxou, and is
believed to be clean.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane torque tube troubles |
--I had to replace a torque tube during a rebuild. Could not believe
that the nickel plating is hand removed to fit the tailplane bushes and
the assembly is then sold as a set as new. Fine until you need a new
torque tube when you find it wont go through the tailplane bushings. 2
loose bearings in the tailplanes later after the cautious use of a
flapwheel on an extended drive shaft and I gave up on rebuilding any
more Europas.
Hope that helps
Gary McKirdy
--- Original Message -----
From: Robert Hatton
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:57 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tailplane torque tube troubles
I am reading these torque tube troubles with a vested interest. I have
a torque tube with some surface rust and my immediate view would be to
replace the torque tube but for the fact of the job that it would
entail.
On a previous thread (a year or more ago) I read about the "earlier"
torque tubes for the pre-XS Europas were not a standard dimension.
Therefore the current torque tubes as supplied by the factory for the XS
models will not be an exact fit for what I would like to replace. I
believe I will have to work on the elevators as well as having the
difficulty of extracting the torque tube itself.
Has anyone experienced removing a torque tube in order to replace it
and can offer some advice?
At the moment my LAA inspector is reviewing what we have once I have
cleaned up the torque tube after rubbing down wet with WD-40 with 800
grade sandpaper. If the tube looks too far gone after this exercise then
I will not have any choice but to replace.
Robert Hatton
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Housman
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 6:43 PM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tailplane torque tube troubles
Actually my point about not using it was to alert the others
monitoring the list that no matter how slight a defect such as you have
seen, not to use any part with plating that is peeling.
I would not recommend re-plating. Although it is possible to remove
the nickel, for example by immersing the part in nitric acid, possible
(likely?) damage to the substrate would make the part less than
airworthy in my opinion. The steel tube is so cheap that it would not
be economical to spend the time to repair it - replacement is the likely
answer you'll get from the factory.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, CA
Europa XS Tri-Gear
A070
Airframe complete
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Stockton
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 6:18 PM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tailplane torque tube troubles
Thanks Rob, Yes, I know not to use it, but now what do I do. ?Get a
new part from England or have this one replated? Still waiting for John
to get back to me.
Rob Housman <rob@hyperion-ef.com> wrote:
My business is plating, including nickel plating. When
electrodeposited
nickel does not adhere to the substrate it is indicative of inadequate
cleaning and activation of the substrate. DO NOT install any parts
that
have the plated metal peeling because the problem will only get worse
as
more material peels.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, CA
Europa XS Tri-Gear
A070
Airframe complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Singleton
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 12:41 AM
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailplane torque tube troubles
Rick
loose plating might give you trouble with tailplane removal, the fit
in
the tailplane bushes is quite tight.
Get it replaced or replated, that should not happen
Graham
Rick Stockton wrote:
> I installed the tail plane torque tube a couple of days ago and
strayed
> it with AFS-50 then wiped it down with MEK. I noticed that the
plating
> is flaking off on one side. I sent an E-mail to John asking him what
he
> thinks I need to do.
>
> Are there any ideals? Have it replated, buy a new one?
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Graham Singleton
Tel: +441629820187
Mob:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 9
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| Subject: | Setting the wing incidence |
Ah I see yes - I meant the pip pin not the lift pin. So you do have
to
cut a slot out of the closeout rib.
it sounds as though hole will have to tapped out a little.
Thanks
Will
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert C
Harrison
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 17:38
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Setting the wing incidence
Hi! William
Please don=92t consider me an authority but in the absence of any one
else
replying =85=85..!
I=92m bemused by question 1?
Do you mean the rear lift pin locking pip pin is vertical?
If so, you get it out by pulling it vertically upwards and you will need
to
cut a hole eventually through the wing to fuselage fillet fairings so at
this stage you will need to relieve it=92s clearance through the inboard
upper
surface of the wing closeout which when the fairings have been fitted
you
may well need to open out . The pip pin travels vertically or parallel
to
the rib. The lift pin is =93normal=94 to the root closeout rib.
2. Have you used a no 3 plug thread tap all the way into the hole ?
because
it sounds to me the threads aren=92t tapped deep enough? Otherwise try
freezing the pin it may shrink it a =93nats=94.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
Checked by AVG.
06-May-08
17:17
Message 10
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| Subject: | CREDIT CARD SCAM |
A heads up folks on this latest theft by stealth.
Peter
#198
ZK-ZEB
Subject: LATEST SYDNEY CREDIT CARD SCAM- URGENT
PLEASE READ
LATEST SYDNEYCREDIT CARD SCAM
This one is pretty slick since they provide YOU with
all the information, except the one piece they want.
Note, the callers do not ask for your card number;
they already have it. This information is worth reading. By
understanding how the VISA & MasterCard Telephone Credit Card Scam
works, you'll be better prepared to protect yourself.
One of our employees was called on Wednesday from
'VISA', and I was called on Thursday from 'Master Card'. The scam works
like this: Caller: 'This is (name), and I'm calling from the Security
and Fraud Department at VISA. My Badge number is 12460. Your card has
been flagged for an unusual purchase pattern, and I'm calling to verify.
This would be on your VISA card which was issued by (name of bank). Did
you purchase an Anti-Telemarketing Device for $497.99 from a Marketing
company based in Arizona?'
When you say 'No', the caller continues with, 'Then
w e will be issuing a credit to your account. This is a company we have
been watching and the charges range from $297 to $497, just under the e
$500 purchase pattern that flags most cards. Before your next statement,
the credit will be sent to (gives you your address), is that correct?'
You say 'yes'. The caller continues - 'I will be
starting a Fraud investigation. If you have any questions, you should
call the 1- 800 number listed on the back of your card (1-800-VISA) and
ask for Security.
You will need to refer to this Control Number. The
caller then gives you a 6 digit number. 'Do you need me to read it
again?'
Here's the IMPORTANT part on how the scam works. The
caller then says, 'I need to verify you are in possession of your card'.
He'll ask you to 'turn your card over and look for some numbers'. ;
There are 7 numbers; the first 4 are e part of your card number, the
next 3 are the security Numbers' that verify you are the possessor of
the card. These are the numbers you sometimes use to make Internet
purchases to prove you have the card. The caller will ask you to read
the 3 numbers to him. After you tell the caller the 3 numbers, he'll
say, 'That is correct, I just needed to verify that the card has not
been lost or stolen, and that you still have your card. Do you have any
other questions?' After you say No, the caller then thanks you and
states, 'Don't hesitate to call back if you do', and hangs up.
You actually say very little, and they never ask for
or tell you the Card number. But after we were called on Wednesday, we
called back within 20 minutes to ask a question. Are we glad we did! The
REAL VISA Security Department told us it was a scam and in the last 15
minutes a new purchase of $497.99 was charged to our card.
Long story - short - we made a real fraud report and
closed the VISA account. VISA is reissuing us a new number. What the
scammers want is the 3-digit PIN number on the back of the card.Don't
give it to them.. Instead, tell them you'll call VISA or Master card
directly for verification of their conversation. The real VISA told us
that they will never ask for anything on the card as they already know
the information since they issued the card! If you give the scammers
your 3 Digit PIN Number, you think y you're receiving a credit. However,
by the time you get your statement you'll see charges for purchases you
didn't make, and by then it's almost too late and/or more difficult to
actually y file a fraud report.
What makes this more remarkable is that on Thursday,
I got a call from a 'Jason Richardson of Master Card' with a
word-for-word repeat of the V ISA scam. This time I didn't let him
finish. I hung up! We filed a police report, as instructed by VISA. The
police said they are taking several of these reports daily! They also
urged us to tell everybody we know that this scam is happening.
Please pass this on to all your family and friends.
By informing each other, we protect each other.
files.
_______________This email message and any accompanying attachments may
contain information that is confidential and intended only for the use
of the addressee named above. It may also be privileged. If you are not
the intended recipient do not read, use, disseminate, distribute or copy
or take any action in reliance on it. If you have received this message
in error please notify the sender immediately and delete this message.
Before opening any attachments, check them for viruses or defects.
_______________
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
02/12/2007 20:34
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Checked by AVG.
5/05/2008 5:11 p.m.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Setting the wing incidence |
Yes sorry not engaging brain before writing. Pip pin vertical.
Thanks
And thanks
will
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kingsley
Hurst
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 18:52
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Setting the wing incidence
Will,
> 1. The rear lift pin is vertical. If this is correct do you
have
to cut out a slot in the root rib to get it in an out?
I think your wording here may be a little confusing. The actual lift
pin is
horizontal (actually parallel to the main wing pins when viewed
horizontally) and the hole through it which accommodates the Pip Pin
locking
pin is vertical. To enable insertion and removal of the Pip Pin, a hole
needs to be cut through the upper wing surface/fairing.
> 2. One of my front pins won=92t go in all the way ' still has
about 4
threads showing. The other one goes in all the way. How do I get a
grip of
the damn thing to screw it in short of taking the mole grips to it or
cutting a slot in the top for a screw driver?
In my opinion, if the threads on the pins and in the holes are clean and
dry, you should be able to screw the pins in fully by hand.
This is what I would try:-
* Swap the pins from one wing to the other to determine if it is the
pin or hole at fault.
* If the pin screws fully into the other wing, then it is the hole at
fault so ensure the tap will easily screw fully into the hole and that
the
thread in the hole contains no debris from the tapping operation.
* The pin may have been dropped or something may have dropped on it
and damaged the thread. If so, in the absence of having the proper die
to
restore the thread, drill and tap a hole through a 1/4" piece of flat
steel.
Using a vice with "soft jaws"*, clamp the pin tightly in the vice and
screw
the 1/4" piece of steel down over the thread. This will allow you
enough
leverage to overcome a slight deformation of the thread on the pin and
will
hopefully restore the thread to enable it to be screwed back easily into
the
wing.
* "Soft Jaws" eg, two pieces of 1.5" X 1.5" aluminium angle placed into
the
jaws of the vice to prevent damage to the part being held.
Cheers
Kingsley in Oz
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List"http://www.matronics.com/
Nav
igator?Europa-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
Checked by AVG.
04-May-08
12:31
Checked by AVG.
06-May-08
17:17
Message 12
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| Subject: | Setting the wing incidence |
No! William ..NO SLOT OUT OF ANY RIB, PLEASE. Just a scallop out of
the close out air upper surface. The Rib is one of the most stressed
items in the wing do not encroach into it.
Regards
Bob Harrison.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Daniell
Sent: 07 May 2008 21:14
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Setting the wing incidence
Ah I see yes - I meant the pip pin not the lift pin. So you do have
to cut a slot out of the closeout rib.
it sounds as though hole will have to tapped out a little.
Thanks
Will
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert C
Harrison
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 17:38
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Setting the wing incidence
Hi! William
Please don't consider me an authority but in the absence of any one else
replying ....!
I'm bemused by question 1?
Do you mean the rear lift pin locking pip pin is vertical?
If so, you get it out by pulling it vertically upwards and you will need
to cut a hole eventually through the wing to fuselage fillet fairings so
at this stage you will need to relieve it's clearance through the
inboard upper surface of the wing closeout which when the fairings have
been fitted you may well need to open out . The pip pin travels
vertically or parallel to the rib. The lift pin is "normal" to the root
closeout rib.
2. Have you used a no 3 plug thread tap all the way into the hole ?
because it sounds to me the threads aren't tapped deep enough? Otherwise
try freezing the pin it may shrink it a "nats".
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
Checked by AVG.
06-May-08 17:17
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| Subject: | Setting the wing incidence |
Ok thanks
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert C
Harrison
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 16:13
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Setting the wing incidence
No! William =85.NO SLOT OUT OF ANY RIB, PLEASE. Just a scallop out of
the
close out air upper surface. The Rib is one of the most stressed items
in
the wing do not encroach into it.
Regards
Bob Harrison.
-----Original Message-----
Checked by AVG.
06-May-08
17:17
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| Subject: | Re: AW: Switch for Hobbs. |
The simplest device requiring no connections at all is the vibration-
sensitive timer made by ENM. I have 17 hours on mine so far after
purchase at SnF this year. Seems to work. Again, no connection to
motor, to battery or to anything else. Just stick it on the panel where
you want it! I bought mine from PSA Enterprises of Lakeland FL for $22.00
They are at http://www.psaenterprises.com/
The product specs are at:
http://enmco.thomasnet.com/viewitems/enm-counting-instruments-lcd-hour-meter/t54-vibration-activated-hour-meter?&bc=100|1005|3001037&forward=1
Enjoy!
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=181803#181803
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Setting the wing incidence |
He's right Willaim.!
When you set the incidence of the second wing, check the incidence at
the outer end of the flap on the first, then match the incidence of the
second wing at the same point to that. The incidence at the root doesn't
affect roll much but further out on the wing it does! That way you
compensate for any mismatch in the twist of the two wings.
Graham
William Daniell wrote:
> Ok thanks
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert C
> Harrison
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 07, 2008 16:13
> *To:* europa-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: Europa-List: Setting the wing incidence
>
>
>
> No! William .NO SLOT OUT OF ANY RIB, PLEASE. Just a scallop out of
> the close out air upper surface. The Rib is one of the most stressed
> items in the wing do not encroach into it.
>
> Regards
>
> Bob Harrison.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 06-May-08 17:17
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Graham Singleton
Tel: +441629820187
Mob: +447739582005
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| Subject: | Re: Setting the wing incidence |
On Wednesday, May 7, 2008, at 14:12 US/Pacific, Robert C Harrison wrote:
> No! William =85.NO SLOT OUT OF ANY RIB, PLEASE.-Just a scallop -out o
f
> the close out air upper surface. The Rib is one of the most stressed
> items in the wing do not encroach into it.
Bob,
What pray tell is the "close out air upper surface"? Is there a
slight typo in your post?
Are you saying that a "scallop" out of the top flange of the root rib
is OK? I certainly hope so, as one was required on both my wings for
me to insert the pip pins. I recognise that this is a highly stressed
portion of a key component.
Fred
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| Subject: | Re: AW: Switch for Hobbs. |
thats quite good isnt it, I think i will go that way
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of rampil
Sent: Thursday, 8 May 2008 9:13 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: AW: Switch for Hobbs.
The simplest device requiring no connections at all is the vibration-
sensitive timer made by ENM. I have 17 hours on mine so far after
purchase at SnF this year. Seems to work. Again, no connection to
motor, to battery or to anything else. Just stick it on the panel where
you want it! I bought mine from PSA Enterprises of Lakeland FL for $22.00
They are at http://www.psaenterprises.com/
The product specs are at:
http://enmco.thomasnet.com/viewitems/enm-counting-instruments-lcd-hour-meter
/t54-vibration-activated-hour-meter?&bc=100|1005|3001037&forward=1
Enjoy!
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=181803#181803
Checked by AVG.
5:23 PM
Checked by AVG.
5:23 PM
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| Subject: | Door bulge because of seal |
Can anyone tell me if they had issues with the doors bulging because of the
seals
kingsley suggested i fit the seals before I set the retaining holes in the
door frame
(thankyou kingsley) which worked nicely, door is flush and even front back
and top, but,
the doors bulge about 5mm in the middle because of the door seals. At this
point the seal
is that tight, i feel you could almost run a pressurised cockpit (keep
dreaming craig)
, how did you all overcome this, Sand the lip the seal is on till it all
fits nicely,
stiffen the door with some carbon maybe, or both, I dont have the "glass" in
the door yet
but i doubt it will stiffen the door enough to hold the 5mm flex that is
present now.
craig
Checked by AVG.
5:23 PM
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| Subject: | Re: Door bulge because of seal |
On Wednesday, May 7, 2008, at 18:08 US/Pacific, craig bastin wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me if they had issues with the doors bulging because
> of the
> seals
> the doors bulge about 5mm in the middle because of the door seals.
Craig,
Both my doors bulge about 3 mm at the center of the lower edge; this is
w/o the seals or plexi.
I've yet to do a trial fit with the seals.
Bud Yerly advised use of a heat gun to reduce the bow and eliminate the
bulge, saying that proper fit before installing glass is essential,
otherwise getting proper fit WITH the glass is quite difficult.
Fred
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As I recall, a couple of youse guys in the states have offered the use
of a 16.5 mm reamer. If so, please put my name on the list and let me
know when one might be available to a builder. No pressing need, but
I've got my inserts and would like to install when retrofits to flying
aircraft are completed.
thanks,
Fred
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| Subject: | Door bulge because of seal |
without the seals the doors are sweet, nice and true, flush all round, its
only now the seal is on, that the door bulges,
its almost like the seal is too hard and is deforming the door.
craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: Thursday, 8 May 2008 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door bulge because of seal
On Wednesday, May 7, 2008, at 18:08 US/Pacific, craig bastin wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me if they had issues with the doors bulging because
> of the
> seals
> the doors bulge about 5mm in the middle because of the door seals.
Craig,
Both my doors bulge about 3 mm at the center of the lower edge; this is
w/o the seals or plexi.
I've yet to do a trial fit with the seals.
Bud Yerly advised use of a heat gun to reduce the bow and eliminate the
bulge, saying that proper fit before installing glass is essential,
otherwise getting proper fit WITH the glass is quite difficult.
Fred
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
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Checked by AVG.
5:23 PM
Checked by AVG.
5:23 PM
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| Subject: | Setting the wing incidence |
Hi! Fred
I was trying to have William NOT remove any part of the RIB . The wing
skin likely extends beyond what you call the RIB FLANGE. The skin is
what I call "fair game" for shaping . Better put up with some difficult
access now and extend the hole later when things are more permanent.
Regards
Bob H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: 08 May 2008 00:36
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Setting the wing incidence
On Wednesday, May 7, 2008, at 14:12 US/Pacific, Robert C Harrison wrote:
No! William ..NO SLOT OUT OF ANY RIB, PLEASE. Just a scallop out of the
close out air upper surface. The Rib is one of the most stressed items
in the wing do not encroach into it.
Bob,
What pray tell is the "close out air upper surface"? Is there a slight
typo in your post?
Are you saying that a "scallop" out of the top flange of the root rib is
OK? I certainly hope so, as one was required on both my wings for me to
insert the pip pins. I recognise that this is a highly stressed portion
of a key component.
Fred
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