Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:10 AM - Re: Fuel tank dimensions (raggi6771)
2. 12:25 AM - Re: Main spar pins/bushes (JR Gowing)
3. 02:50 AM - Re: Main spar pins/bushes (craig bastin)
4. 06:14 AM - Re: Question on rudder cable bearing location? (Jeffrey J Paris)
5. 09:38 AM - Re-routing coolant lines, 914UL/3 (Remi Guerner)
6. 04:19 PM - Tri gear front bulkhead (Rick Stockton)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dimensions |
Svein, yes the wrap of the alloy tank was as you suggested to add a second layer
of sealing and make the tank stronger as well. I started
making a totally vinyl ester tank, but had concerns about mounting the
fittings into the tank and getting a good seal. The plan was to allow filling
through the "overflow" from the reserve back into the filler neck above
the main tank inlet, and also if desired the reserve pump could be turned
on during filling, or before, to fill the reserve from the main, as in theory
the main should still have fuel in it. The reserve pump i have will pump
15 litres a minute in free state and up to about 35 psi if restricted which
will fill the reserve quickly either way.
As for the seats and the headrests etc I reuse the original and glass it back on
with a slight reduction in width front to back
to maintain the angles. I dint believe it is possible to get a good bond
between epoxy and vinyl ester resin so I have i the reserve tank "captive" between
the main tank and the seat top.
Given the reserve tank is long and not very tall, the tank has baffles
to stop the fuel running from side to side if it is less than full.
Its not quite as much fuel as the plug in long range tank Europa sell
but it is close, and it should meet the requirements of only drawing fuel
from one tank at a time that some countries have.
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Main spar pins/bushes |
Craig
Be careful about the location of the pins, regarding their level.
I believe the holes for the wing pins on Kit 327 in the cockpit seatback are
highter than they should be. Mine are.at 190mm below a line at the level of
the top of the seatback - that is, down from the level at the base of the
headrests.
.
I had no idea that this might be the case until I began to instal the
hinges for the flaps, which then needed to be placed so cleose to the
undersurface ot the fuselage that I could only just get a line between them
to set them the same level. Other builders have their hinges lower ie below
the bottom of fuselage.
I believe that my placement also made the verticle space for the flap
pushrod narrower than normal and made its adjustment more restrictive and
hence harder.
I woujld be pleased to hear what your corresponding measurements are.
JR (Bob) Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz
Do not archive
- unless your measurements tell us something!
----- Original Message -----
From: "raggi6771" <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 3:20 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Main spar pins/bushes
>
> For those of you who have had the same issues, I have found that i cant
> get the port side pin to install. The hole/bush in the CM is about 3 - 4mm
> too high so i have to move it. Question is do I move just to port side
> bush,
> or both to keep things even. My feeling is to move both so they can be
> reduxed in-situ and give me a very easy rigging, and also ensure that
> the wings are even with regard to elevators. The starboard bolt can be
> installed by hand in the port spar but is tight through the rear starboard
> wing spar. The wings measure at 4.6 degrees of dihedral on both with the
> starboard pin installed
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG.
> 9:27 AM
>
>
--
Message 3
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| Subject: | Main spar pins/bushes |
Like yours mine measure at 190mm, so based on that I would be curious to
know
what it "should" be, I could get the pin in on the port side if I sanded the
top of the spar
where it sits in the alloy "U" shaped bracket, or i could also remove the
glass from the bracket
and open it up slightly to allow the spar to rise enough to allow the pin to
insert.
Question is how much load do these brackets actually take.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of JR Gowing
Sent: Sunday, 22 June 2008 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Main spar pins/bushes
Craig
Be careful about the location of the pins, regarding their level.
I believe the holes for the wing pins on Kit 327 in the cockpit seatback are
highter than they should be. Mine are.at 190mm below a line at the level of
the top of the seatback - that is, down from the level at the base of the
headrests.
.
I had no idea that this might be the case until I began to instal the
hinges for the flaps, which then needed to be placed so cleose to the
undersurface ot the fuselage that I could only just get a line between them
to set them the same level. Other builders have their hinges lower ie below
the bottom of fuselage.
I believe that my placement also made the verticle space for the flap
pushrod narrower than normal and made its adjustment more restrictive and
hence harder.
I woujld be pleased to hear what your corresponding measurements are.
JR (Bob) Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz
Do not archive
- unless your measurements tell us something!
----- Original Message -----
From: "raggi6771" <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 3:20 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Main spar pins/bushes
>
> For those of you who have had the same issues, I have found that i cant
> get the port side pin to install. The hole/bush in the CM is about 3 - 4mm
> too high so i have to move it. Question is do I move just to port side
> bush,
> or both to keep things even. My feeling is to move both so they can be
> reduxed in-situ and give me a very easy rigging, and also ensure that
> the wings are even with regard to elevators. The starboard bolt can be
> installed by hand in the port spar but is tight through the rear starboard
> wing spar. The wings measure at 4.6 degrees of dihedral on both with the
> starboard pin installed
>
>
> Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG.
> 9:27 AM
>
>
--
Checked by AVG.
9:27 AM
Checked by AVG.
9:27 AM
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Question on rudder cable bearing location? |
Thanks Bob!
--- On Sat 06/21, Robert Borger < rlborger@mac.com > wrote:
From: Robert Borger [mailto: rlborger@mac.com]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Question on rudder cable bearing location?
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re-routing coolant lines, 914UL/3 |
Hi Ferg,
Loosening the Allen screws does not allow swiveling the elbows. You
need to remove the flange/elbow sub assembly from the engine, then
unscrew the elbow from the flange, clean the treads on both the elbow
and the flange with a solvent (acetone works for that), cover the treads
with Loctite 243 or equivalent, screw the elbow in the flange, fit to
the engine with a new o-ring, swivel the elbow in the suitable position,
let the loctite cure before operation. I had to do that on cyl 1 and 2
because I had a leak at the treads.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Remi
re-routing 17mm water tubes rearward which in turn requires swiveling
the
applicable bent tubes through the sockets on the heads by loosening the
M6x20 Allen screws.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Tri gear front bulkhead |
I have found one drawing of the front bulkhead that shows two pieces cut to 260
x 260x3mm, but my opening is larger and I can't find what chapter it addresses
this bulkhead.
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